Op 


^'(^.-  .^ 


TEAVELS 


ATLAS   AND    SOUTHEKN    MOEOCCO. 


!^ 


TO 
MY    VERY    DE.VIl   I'UIENDS 
Dk.  .i.\j>  Mas.  HUGH  LUCiAN  CALDliR 

Cbitj    JGooh 

r  ,S     J )  E  D  I  ('  A  T  E  D 


THE    AUTllUit. 


PKEFACE. 


In  introducing  tliis  book  to  the  I'eader,  little  need  be 
said.  It  is  nothing  more  than  what  it  pretends  to  bo 
— a  Personal  Narrative  of  Exploration.  It  does  not 
claim  to  be  a  book  on  Morocco,  and  consequently  may 
appear  in  many  respects  to  be  very  defective.  To 
write  such  a  book  was  originally  my  ambition  when  I 
turned  my  attention  to  that  remarkable  country,  but  the 
abrupt  and  premature  conclusion  of  my  travels  has  made 
me  perforce  alter  my  intention,  and  devote  myself  to  re- 
cording only  something  of  what  we  saw  and  experienced 
in  the  parts  in  which  we  travulled.  It  has,  moreover, 
been  as  inucli  my  object  to  sketch  pictures  as  to  clironicle 
facts.  For  the  same  reason  this  book  has  been  made  a 
personal  narrative,  with  its  inevitable  frequent  use  of 
the  first  person  singular  or  plural. 

To  preserve  the  popular  and  handy  character  of  the 
volume,  much  of  general  and  scientific  interest  has 
been  omitted,  wliich  will  sec  the  light  through  more 
appropriate  channels. 

Treatises  on  the  geography,  geology,  and  botany  of 


viii  rREFACE. 

tlie  Atlas  would  bo  as  niiicli  out  of  place  iu  a  popular 
work,  as  would  })o  tlio  luilitaiy  notes  of  the  energetic 
3'ouug  oflicer  who  accompanied  me,  and,  therefore, 
on  such  topics,  except  in  a  superficial  manner,  I  am 
silent. 

It  only  remains  for  me  to  add  that  the  illustrations 
of  this  book  are  from  photographs  taken  by  myself, 
with  the  exception  of  half-a-dozen  kindly  supplied 
to  me  by  Mr.  White,  H,j\l.  Consul  at  Tangier,  and 
three  others  by  unknown  photographers,  to  whom  I 
now  beg  to  offer  m^^  apologies  for  making  unauthorised 
use  of  their  productions. 

It  may  be  well  to  state  that  in  the  spelling  of 
new  proper  names  I  liave  adopted  the  Italian  vowel 
sounds. 

EniNBUKGH,  Ajiril  iSSg. 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  I. 

PAGES 

({lI51l.\],T.VR   TO    TaNGIKH I-Q 

Departure  from  Europe — Arrival  in  Tangirr — A  iiight- 
rainhle  tlirough  the  town — Condition  of  the  streets 
— A  Moorisli  cafd — A  Jew's  wedding. 

CHAPTKIi   II. 

Morning  in  Tangier 10-17 

How  I  carac  to  visit  Morocco — Past  history  and  present 
condition  of  tlie  country — My  companion,  Lieutenant 
Harold  Crichton-Browne — ^'iewof  Tangier — A  native 
school — Visit  to  the  British  Ambassador,  Sir  William 
Kirby  Green. 

CHAPTKIJ  11  r. 

A  Strolt,  through  Tangier 18-30 

'J'lic  inhabitants — The  shops — The  raarket-place — The 
Kasbah — A  wedding-procession — A  funeral — Resi- 
dence of  the  Governor— Moorish  decoration — View 
from  the  Marshan. 

CIIAPTKII   IV. 

Tangier  to  Azamok 31-43 

Letter  from  tlie  Sultan — Departure  from  Tangier — A 
stormy  passage — Arrival  at  Casal>lanca — Departure 
for  Azamor  —  Our  soldier-guide  —  Fertility  of  the 
country — Kubas — Profusion  of  (lowers — Camp  near 
;in  Arab  ilutii: 


X  CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER  V. 

PAGES 

AZAMOR   TO   MOGADOU 44-64 

Native  wells  and  watcr-whecls — Portuguese  fortifica- 
tions at  Azamor — Mazagan — Portuguese  remains — 
Kasbab  of  Nortbern  Dukalla — Geological  features  of 
tbe  countr}- — Kasbab  of  Soutbern  Dukalla — Mona — 
Metamores  and  mitfires — Reception  at  Kasbab  of 
Aissa — KuskussH  and  Tajen — Nigbt  in  tbe  Kasbab — 
Departure  for  Safli — Nearing  tbe  town — Mr.  George 
Hunot,  Britisb  Yice-Consul — Hawking — Departure 
for  Mogador — Physical  features  of  Sbiedma — Aker- 
mut — First  view  of  the  Atlas — Mogador. 

CHAPTER  VI. 

Mogador 65-78 

Delays — Kindness  of  Mr.  Payton,  Britisb  Consul,  and 
of  Mr.  J.  Louis  Eatto — Climate  of  Mogador — Tbe 
town — Its  sewage  system — Tbe  Mellali— Tbe  Moga- 
dor Jew — Procession  in  honour  of  Sidi  Hamadsha — 
Moorish  fanaticism. 

CHAPTER  VII. 

The  Boar-Hunt 79-8? 

On  tbe  way  to  the  hunting-ground — The  Palm-tree 
House — Concert  by  the  beaters — The  bunting-party 
— On  tbe  scent — A  false  alarm — At  bay— A  dis- 
appointment—On tbe  scent  again — The  couj)  de  grace 
— The  return  home. 

CHAPTER  VIII. 

Through  Shif.dma  to  Saffi 88-1 11 

A  trial  trip — Moorish  adieux— Sand-dunes — Aspect  of 
the  country — Beginning  of  our  troubles  with  our 
men — Their  rapacity — Visit  to  the  Kaid  of  Sbiedma 
— Camp  at  Jebel  Hadid — Ascent  of  the  Iron  Moun- 
tains—An evening  with  the  Sheik  of  Takat — Explo- 
ration of  disused  iron-mines — Geological  features — 
Zawias  —  Fording  the  Tensift — A  blow  for  the 
mastery. 


CONTENTS.  xi 

C  IT  AFTER  TX. 

PAGES 

Saffi  to  the  City  of  Moikjcco    .        .        .        .         112- 126 

Rearrangement  of  our  escort — The  town  of  Safli— 'flic 
palace — The  climate — Start  for  the  interior — Pro- 
vince of  Abda — Province  of  Bled  Hummel — Fertility 
of  the  land — Poverty  of  the  people — Panoramic  view 
of  the  Atlas  and  the  city  of  Morocco — Approach  to 
the  city — Arrival,  and  reception  by  the  Governor. 

CHAPTER  X. 

MARAKsn,  OR  City  of  Morocco    ....         127-139 

A  levde — A  stroll  through  the  city — First  impressions 
— Arrival  of  a  guide — Desertion  of  one  of  our  men 
— Departure  from  the  city — Route  to  Sidi  Rehal — 
Irrigation  channels — View  of  the  Plain  of  Morocco 
and  the  Atlas  Mountains. 


CHAPTER  XT. 

Sidi  Rehal  to  Demnat 140-153 

Departure  from  Sidi  Rehal — Tezert—  The  Wad  Tcssaout 
— The  province  of  Srarna — Approach  to  Demnat — 
Reception — We  array  ourselves  in  Moorish  costume 
— Interview  with  the  Kaid — 'J"he  Raid's  garden. 


CHAPTER  XTT. 

Town  and  Yalt.ey  of  Demnat     .        .        .        .        154-173 

The  inhabitants — The  Berbers  or  Slicllach — Dress  of 
the  women — The  Mellah — Prevalence  of  ophthalmic 
diseases — Visit  to  Iminifiri,  "the  big  cave" — Geo- 
logical features  of  the  valley  of  Demnat — Remains 
of  the  Rum  or  early  Christians — Ascent  of  Irghalnsor 
— Elevation  of  the  Atlas  at  this  point. 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  XT  IT. 

PAGES 

Tasimset 174-190 

Visit  to  Tasimset  proposed — Objections  of  the  Kaid — 
A  row  among  our  men — Features  of  the  road  to 
Tasimset — Waterfall  and  caves  at  Tasimset — Jewish 
method  of  baking  bread — A  Jewish  interior — Bei'bcr 
villages— Ascent  of  Tazaroch. 


CHAPTER  XIV. 

The  Glkn  of  the  Wad  Gadat     ....         191-203 

Reception  at  Tezert — Enzel  and  the  Wad  el  Mulha — 
Ascent  of  the  Gadat  glen  —Difficulties  of  the  path- 
way— Camp  at  Zarktnn. 


CHAPTER  XV. 

Across  the  Tizi-n-Teluet 204-2: 

Desolation  of  mountain  scenery— Jebel  Glauwi — Ascent 
of  the  pass — Sure-footedness  of  the  mides — The 
mountaineers — Titula — Evidences  of  glacial  action 
— View  from  head  of  the  pass — Geological  features 
— Valley  and  Kasbab  of  Teluet — A  mountain  wel- 
come— The  Kaid  of  Glauwa — We  present  the  Sul- 
tan's letter. 


CHAPTER  XVT. 

Thio  Kasbah  of  Telukt 223-240 

Machinations  of  our  men — Moorisli  immorality — The 
Kaid's  attendants  and  ircikkjc — Life  at  the  Kasbah 
— Elevation  and  climate  of  Teluet — The  "  Anti- 
Atlas" — Caves  of  tlic  Kuni  —  Tal)ugumt  —  I'^ight 
among  our  men. 


CONTENTS.  xi.ii 

CHAPTER  XYTT. 

I'AflKS 

ASCKNT   OP  .TaURIRT 24I-254 

Geological  and  otlicr  features  of  tlio  route — Elevation 
of  the  peak  and  of  the  Atlas — A  maladc  imor/inairc  — 
Atlas  Jews — "Protection" — Costume  of  mountain 
Jews — Child-wives. 

CHAPTER  XVI 1 1. 

iNCrDENTS   OF   LiFK   AT   TeLUET  ....  255-273 

A  Moorish  holiday — A  native  dance — The  onlookers — 
We  prepare  to  leave  'J'eluet — Obstacles  to  explora- 
tion— Our  men  attain  to  blame— Attacked  by  reli- 
iiions  fanatics — A  Jloorisli  fc;is(. 

CHAPTER  XIX. 

Tei.uet  to  Amsmiz 274-284 

lleturn  to  the  Plain — Traces  of  glacial  action — Ollu'r 
geological  peculiarities — Iminzet  to  Amsmiz — Situa- 
tion and  i)opulation  of  Amsmi/, — Experiments  with 
aneroid  and  boiling-i)oint  tliermometer — Tlie  Jews 
of  Amsmiz — Child-marriages. 

CHAPTER  XX. 

tir.F.x  OF  THE  Wad  Amsmiz 2S5-299 

Ascent  of  the  glen — Our  camp — More  remains  of  the 
Rum  —  Blue  daisies  —  Imintella  —  Performance  by 
snake-charmers. 

CHAPTER  XXL 

ClNDAFY    300-319 

Second  crossing  of  tlie  Atlas — Geological  features- 
Jebel  Tezah — Ascent  of  the  Tizi  Nemiri— View  from 
the  pass — Elevation — Mountains  of  AVishdan— l{ed 
sandstone  —  Descent  on  Gindafy — Cold  reception 
by  the  Kaid— Criehton-Prowne  stung  by  a  scor- 
pion— Good  workmanship  and  its  reward— Glen  of 
the  Wad  Agandice— Mountain  ascent — Glen  of  the 
Wad  Nviis  — I{(_'turn  to  Amsmiz. 


xiv  CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER  XXII. 

PAGES 

Mauossa  and  the  Asif  kl  Mel   ....        320-327 

Amsiniz  to  the  Asif  ol  Mel — Development  of  cretaceous 
rocks  at  Marossa — A  bad  night — Glen  of  the  Wad 
Erght — A  terminal    moraine — Camp    by   the  Wad 

Erdnz. 

CHAPTER  XXIII. 

The  Ascent  op  Jebel  Ogdimt      ....        328-345 

Protestations  of  escort — The  ascent  commenced — 
Above  the  clouds — The  Tizi  Nslit — The  landscape — 
Berber  villages— Camp  by  the  Wad  Nyfis — Attitude 
of  the  mountaineers— A  difficult  climb — View  of  the 
Sus  valley  and  the  glen  of  the  Nyfis — Robbers  in 
the  path — Other  obstacles — The  summit  reached — 
View  of  the  Atlas  and  the  Sus  valley — Elevation — 
Return  to  Amsmiz — Wrath  of  the  Governor. 

CHAPTER  XXIV. 

Maraksh 346-369 

Return  to  the  city — View  from  the  house-tops — The 
houses — The  minarets — The  Kutubia — The  walls — 
Population — The  Kasbah,  Medinah,  and  Mellah — 
Ruined  buildings — Mosque  of  the  Kutubia — Mosque 
of  Abdul  Aziz — The  gateways — The  palace — Difficul- 
ties in  obtaining  photographs — The  fountains — The 
business  quarter — The  bazaars — The  workshops — 
The  fundaks — The  Kascria — The  markets — Native 
entertainments  in  the  market-place. 

CHAPTER  XXV. 

Life  in  Maraksh 370-392 

The  excessive  heat — Cost  of  living — A  Moorish  house 
— The  harem — House  decoration  and  furniture — 
Degeneracy  of  modern  Moorish  art  and  its  causes — 
Social  position  of  women — Itinerant  musicians — A 
Moorish  interior — Moorish  women  at  home — Their 
dress  and  appearance —The  Hammum — Shampooing 
a  Jew — Moorish  dancing-women. 


CONTENTS.  XV 


CHAPTER  XXVI. 

PAGES 

The  Aid-ki--Kkbiu 393-413 

Gathering  of  Kaids  to  do  homage  to  the  Sultan — 
Maraksh  en  fete — The  scene  outside  the  walls — The 
Viceroy — The  religious  ceremony — The  sacrifices— 
The  state  function — Reception  of  the  Kaids — A 
fanatical  crowd — Stoning  the  Christians — Lab  el 
Barud  or  powder-play — Feats  on  horseback — An 
example  of  Moorish  justice. 


CHAPTER  XXVII. 

THii  Jews ,        .        414-428 

Reputed  galling  restrictions  under  which  they  live — 
Their  actual  comparative  exemption  from  such — 
Their  usury — Their  mercantile  sjDirit — Their  dwell- 
ings— Over-crowding — Jewish  hospitality — Religion 
— Former  persecutions. 


CHAPTEll  XXVIII. 

The  HousK-Tors 429-443 

View  of  the  Atlas— Night  in  Maraksh — Domestic  dis- 
cord— "A  piece  of  her  mind" — The  c.iU  to  prayers 
— Mohammedanism  in  Morocco — Moorish  .system  of 
government — Sale  of  "  i)rotections  " — Europeans  in 
Morocco — Prospects  of  the  Empire. 


CHAPTER  XXIX. 

Urika 14-^-455 

Another  maladc  imafjinairc — Final  departure  from 
Maraksh — Arrival  at  Achliz — Ascent  of  the  Urika 
glen — Meeting  with  the  Kaid — "  To  arms  " — An 
effectual  barrier — We  l)cat  a  retreat — A  lavish  bill 
of  fare — Return  to  Acliliz — Glen  of  the  Wad  Rerava. 


CONTENTS. 


CHALTEll  XXX. 

I'AOK.S 

ThU   AsCCNT   Ol'   THIO    Tl/J    LlRUMlT  .  .  .  456-467 

Glen  of  the  Wad  Iminneii — Its  desolation — Its  inliutn- 
tants  —  Taslidirfc  —  Ascent  of  the  mountain  —  We 
reach  our  highest  point  in  tlie  Atlas — The  Tizi-n- 
Tamjurt — Mountain  tarn  of  Ifri — A  native  supersti- 
tion— BoYCotted— Return  to  Asni — Asuito  Imiutanut 
— A  slave  caravan — Winnowing  corn. 


CHAPTER  XXXI. 

TlIUuUGH    SutS   TO   THE   COAST  ....  468-4S4 

We  set  out  for  Sus — Anarchy  in  tlic  province  of  Mtuga 
— A  scene  with  our  men — The  Wad  Isserato — Sok  in 
the  glen  of  Msira — The  end  of  the  Atlas  range— The 
"  Burj  Anserrani " — Mountains  of  Ida  Uziki  and  Ida 
Mhamud — The  province  of  Sus — The  Howara  in 
revolt — Reception  at  the  Kasbah  of  Msgina — Agadir 
— Agadir  to  Casablanca — Departure  for  England. 

Index 4S5-488 


LIST    OF    ILLUSTKATIONS. 


jfull  ipaiic  Slliistrations. 


1.  Tancmkr        ........  Frontispiece 

2.  Strekt  Sck-NK,  Tancihi; faciwj  jmye  4 

3.  A  SoK  on  Market „        ,,21 

4.  Saffi  fkom  tiiu  North .,        „    58 

5.  Strhkt  in  Kasbah,  MociAuoR         ...  „        „    68 

6.  MOGAOOR   FRO.AI    TllU   SoUTlI ,     So 

7.  Group,  Toi'  of  Ji;i;i;i.  Hauid  ...         ....  106 

8.  Sultan's  Palack,  Saffi ,114 

9.  Strfkt  in  Maraksii .,129 

10.  Fountain  in  Morocco ,131 

11.  Demnat ,        „  161 

12.  Camt  in  Olivk  Grovk ,  189 

13.  Aurar-n-1ri  andGlen  LKADiNu  tuTizi-n-Tellkt,,        „  205 

14.  Kasbaii,  Teluet ,,        ,,215 

15.  "Dinner  KExVdv  " .,        ,,268 

16.  A.MS-Miz ,.        .,  282 

17.  Jkwi.sii  C'iiild-Wises,  A.m.s.mi/,        .        .        .         „        ,,284 
iS.  Wau  Nvfis,  East  of  Camp,  Ginuafv  .        .         .,        „  318 

19.  JeBKL,    OODIMT   FRO.M    THE   TlZl   NSLIT     .  .  „  ,,  332 

20.  View  of  Morocco  from  the  Housetop      .         ,,        ,,  347 

21.  Mosque  of  the  Kutuiha        ....         „        ,,  353 

22.  Entrance  to  Onk  of  the  Business  Quar- 

ters, Maraksii ,,  „  361 

23.  Our  Quarters,  Maraksii ,  „  373 

24.  Women  at  the  Door  of  the  Harem  .        .         „  „  374 

25.  David  AssoR,  SiiAi.uM,  AND  Jews  of  Maraksii       ,,  ,,417 

26.  Jewesses,  Maraksii ,  ,,  420 

27.  Mouth  of  the  Wad,  Urika  Glen        .        .         „  „  446 

28.  Village  in  Urika  Glen         ....         „  „  448 

29.  Tasiidirt,  Wad  Iminnen ,  ,,461 

30.  Jews,  Asni „  465 

31.  Moorish  Guns,  Dagcjers,  AM)  r()\\Di;i;-ll()RNs      „  ,,484 


LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS. 


Small  Jllustrattons  in  tTci't. 


PACE  ; 

PAGE 

Boy  and  Begp:ar 

30 1 

Waiting  for  Dinner    . 

269 

Our  Soldier-Guide 

34 

Kasbah,  Gindafy 

308 

Water  Wheel      . 

45 

The  Cloud  Scene,  Tizi  Nslit 

330 

Market-Place,  Azainoi- 

47 

The  Walls  of  Morocco 

349 

Jew  of  Mogador 

69 

Entrance  to  Palace  Court  . 

355 

AVoman,  Out-Door  Costum 

3     74 

A  Potter's  Shop 

359 

Brass  Tray,  Mogador 

87 

A  Moorish  Audience  . 

368 

Camp  in  Olive  Grove 

98 

Leather  Tea-Tray  Mat 

369 

Court  in  Palace,  Saffi 

"5 

Itinerant  Musician     . 

379 

H.  Crichton-Browne  . 

121 

In  Disguise 

387 

Moorish  Girl 

132 

Water  Carrier    . 

394 

C.-B.  in  Moorish  Dress 

149 

Faces  in  the  Crowd   . 

403 

Garden  in  Kaid's  House 

151 

Powder-Play 

40S 

Mellah 

158 

The  Kutubia 

413 

Mountain  Village 

186 

Among  the  Gardens,  Marak^ 

'b443 

Daggers,  Powder-Horu,  an 

1 

Powder-Horn  and  Bullet- 

Ornaments 

.     190 

Pouches  .        .        .         . 

455 

Zarktan 

.     202 

Village  in  the  Glen  of  the 

Daggers  and  Powder-Hori 

1    240 

Wad  Iminnen 

459 

Atlas  Jews 

•    249 

Winnowing  Corn 

466 

/Ibaps. 

1.  Physical  Map  op  South-Westeen  Morocco, 

SHOWING  Author's  Eoute    .... 

2.  Geological  Map  op  South-Western  Morocco 

3.  Strait  of  Gibraltar 

4.  Route  prom  Rabat  to  Saffi  .... 

5.  Routes  in  the  Central  Atlas 

6.  Plan  op  Morocco 


fuciwj  page  i 


X>agc 


36 

287 

351 


M\P  OF 

SOUTH  WESTEfmMOKOCCO 

Illustrate  e  of  exploriUons  corned  tnby 
JObFPH    THOMSON 


MOROCCO. 


CHAPTER  I. 

GIBRALTAR  TO  TANGIER. 

At  mid-da}',  on  the  17th  of  i\Iarcli  1888,  we  were  still 
in  Gibraltar,  still  on  tlic  threshold  of  Europe.  We 
were  wandering  through  lanes  and  streets  whose 
English  names  seemed  as  much  out  of  place  as  did 
the  blue-costumed  policemen  and  red-coated  soldiers 
among  the  swarthy  Gibraltarians  and  black-eyed 
Spanish  girls.  At  every  step  we  could  not  but  be 
aware  that  we  were  still  under  the  British  flag.  We 
saw  much  to  interest  and  delight  us — much  to  in- 
struct ;  but  we  could  not  feel  at  rest  while  the  current- 
swept  Straits  lay  between  us  and  our  moi-e  immediate 
goal,  INforocco. 

As  the  sun  began  to  decline  towards  the  west,  we 
found  ourselves  on  the  turbulent  stretch  of  blue 
waters.  Europe  was  now  behind  us,  and  Africa,  with 
all  its  promised  joys,  in  front.  Once  fairly  clear  of 
the  protecting   ht>adlands,  there  was  a  sliort   ptri(Ml  of 

A 


MOROCCO. 


"  trciiicndoiis  motion  "  and  "  rueful  throes,"  and  then 
Africa  received  us  in  her  slieltering  arms. 

The  sun  was  neariny  the  horizon  as  we  steamed  into 
tlie  little  Bay  of  Tangier. 

The  town,  however,  wo  could  not  see,  strain  as  we 
might;  for  just  beyond  it  hung  the  sun,  shedding  a 
dazzling  flood  of  light  like  a  marvellous  aureole  over 
its    every  feature,   and   effectually  hiding  it  from  our 


QWuTajwltr  ^MM.,:.V^i,, 


ft  §  y^Ceuta 


Scaia  ■.  I'  IDOO.OOO        I 


'?  -."  '.^  Stat  «ito 


infidel  gaze.  Only  for  a  few  moments,  however  ;  for 
speedily  we  steamed  into  the  shadow  of  the  hills,  and, 
as  if  by  enchantment,  the  town  sprang  into  view, 
cradled  in  a  niche  of  the  hillside  which  bounds  the 
western  aspect  of  the  little  bay.  There  indeed  it  lay, 
a  tiling  of  beauty  to  us,  in  all  the  glamour  of  its 
Oriental  architecture ;  its  otherwise  dazzling  white- 
washed walls  toned  down  by  the  soft  evening  shadows, 


(UliRALTAR  TO  TANGIER.  3 

tliougli  every  detail  of  house  or  mosque  stood  out  sharp 
and  clear  in  the  pure  atmosphere. 

We  had  barely  time  to  review  the  general  impres- 
sion conveyed  by  the  scene  when  we  became  aware 
that  tlie  little  steamer  had  stopped,  and  the  rattling  of 
the  anclior-chaiiis  lirou^'ht  us  back  to  the  more  prac- 
tical necessities  of  the  moment. 

Scarcely  had  we  taken  up  a  watchful  attitude  beside 
our  baggage  before  the  stcauier  was  surrounded  by 
boats,  and  in  a  twinkling  Negro,  Berber,  I\Ioor,  and 
Spaniard  were  scrambling  on  board,  bent  on  taking 
possession  of  the  persons  and  impedimenta  of  pas- 
sengers. 

For  a  moment  1  allowed  myself  to  be  entranced  by 
the  (to  me)  not  unpleasant  gabble  and  scramble.  The 
Arab  gutturals  and  pigeon-English  brought  back  many 
memories  of  East  and  West  Africa,  and  tlie  constantly 
recurring  name  of  "  Allah  "  sounded  sweet  and  musical, 
and  altogether  seemly,  after  the  sharp  significance  of 
its  English  equivalent,  as  we  are  accustomed  to  hear  it 
under  similar  circumstances.  But  while  I  stood  and 
dreamed  I  was  not  asleep.  On  seeing  some  friendly 
Moors  put  unauthorised  hands  upon  our  belongings, 
the  old  spirit  of  command  (which  had  been  developed 
in  me  as  leader  of  several  African  caravans)  instinc- 
tively leapt  up,  and  with  wild  whoop  I  sprang  among 
the  noisy  crew  and  drove  them  forth  till  I  saw  it 
necessary  to  utilise  their  services. 

A  few  minutes  later  we  were  landed  on  the  sliore  of 
Africa — not,  however,  Africa  as  I  had   known   it   else- 


4  MOROCCO. 

where,  black,  barbarous,  and  breechless,  but  Africa 
Orientalised,  in  which  the  Negro  and  the  European 
alike  seemed  extraneous  elements. 

A  slight  inspection  sufficed  to  pass  our  baggage 
before  the  grave  and  dignified  Moors  who  sat  as  cus- 
toms-inspectors at  the  water-gate  of  the  town,  and  then, 
with  eyes  now  watchfully  directed  towards  our  little 
caravan  of  porters,  anon  taking  note  of  passing  Moor, 
Jew,  and  Gentile,  we  wended  our  way  up  a  rising 
winding  lane,  till  we  found  ourselves  at  the  doorway 
of  the  Continental  Hotel,  and  passing  in,  were  once 
more  in  Europe,  with  all  that  phrase  implies  in  regard 
to  the  good  things  of  this  life  which  minister  to  the 
body. 

A  couple  of  hours  later  we  were  sitting  in  the  cool 
corridor  sipping  our  coffee  in  the  most  approved  civil- 
ised fashion,  watching  the  movements  of  visitors,  and 
catching  now  and  then  a  glint  of  local  colour  in  the 
shape  of  picturesquely-dressed  native  waiters,  an  im- 
pudent little  Jew  guide  in  Tunisian  costume,  and  the 
amply  dressed  and  portly  form  of  his  Moorish  com- 
panion. 

But  we  did  not  feel  contented.  What  came  we  out 
for  to  see  ?  we  asked  each  other.  Not  this  certainly. 
We  felt  we  could  not  possibly  sleep  that  night  in 
peace  unless  we  had  sought  out  some  adventure  or 
seen  something  thoroughly  Moorish  to  dream  about. 

Visitors  had  been  seen  to  leave  the  hotel  myste- 
riously, headed  by  a  guide  and  a  lantern.  Here  was 
something  to  go   upon.      We   also  called   for  a  guide 


GIBRALTAR  TO  TANGIHR.  5 

and  a  lantern,  and  sallied  furtli  into  the  unlightcd 
streets  of  Tangier. 

We  soon  learned  that  tlie  lantern  was  an  important 
adjunct  to  niglit-raniLles  in  a  ^Moorish  town,  lessening 
the  risk  of  unpleasant  shocks  to  head  or  feet,  or  un- 
wished-for  contact  with  disagreeable  sewage-scented 
puddles  and  dead  dogs  and  cats.  These,  however,  in 
our  fresh  enthusiasm,  were  considered  so  thoroughly 
Eastern  and  in  harmony  with  things  Moorish,  that  we 
raised  not  our  voices  against  them.  Indeed,  I  verily 
believe  we  should  have  complained  had  we  found  the 
streets  thoroughly  clean,  and  had  not  occasionally 
stumbled  against  some  malodorous  dead  animal.  Be 
that  as  it  may,  there  was  no  doubt  as  to  what  was  the 
real  thing  in  Moorish  street  amenities,  and  we  found 
ourselves  kept  continually  on  the  alert,  looking  after 
head  and  feet. 

When  we  sallied  forth,  it  was  yet  too  early  in  the 
evening  to  find  adventures.  There  were  too  many 
people  in  the  streets,  too  many  glowworm-like  lanterns 
ligliting  up  the  darkness.  We  therefore  made  for  a 
Moorish  cafe,  which,  as  a  rule,  is  the  first,  and  not 
uncommonly  the  last  glimpse  that  European  visitors 
get  of  Moorish  life. 

The  cafe  we  found  to  be  a  very  poor  place,  decorated 
with  gaudily-coloured  brackets  and  some  cheap  mirrors 
and  prints.  We  felt  quite  insulted  on  being  ottered 
chairs  to  sit  upon,  and  waved  them  haughtily  away 
with  "  Baralca  !  harala  !  "  which  we  had  been  told 
was  the  right  way  to  decline  with  thanks.     The  coffee- 


6  MOROCCO. 

grounds  and  warm  water  put  us  into  better  liumour. 
We  tried  hard  to  enjoy  the  terrific  din  raised  by  a 
band  of  musicians,  who,  witli  an  accompaniment  of 
tomtoms,  violins,  pipes,  and  liand-clapping,  howled  out 
a  song  which  apparently  required  many  contortions  of 
the  face  and  much  raising  of  the  eyes  to  heaven  to 
bring  out  the  due  effect.  That  we  did  not  altogether 
succeed  may  have  been  due  to  a  presentiment  that  this 
was  not  the  genuine  article — as  neither  it  was — the 
music  being  Jewish  and  Spanish.  As  a  rule,  however, 
everybody  goes  away  from  such  an  entertainment  im- 
mensely delighted,  satisfied  that  he  or  she  knows  now 
wliat  Moorish  music  is  like. 

After  an  interval  sufficiently  long  to  enable  us  to 
take  in  the  situation,  we  felt  that  the  time  had  come 
to  seek  something  more  stirring,  and  muffling  our 
forms  in  imaginary  cloaks,  we  left  the  cafe. 

The  lanes  were  now  nearly  deserted.  Only  here 
and  there  a  light  appeared  glimmering  in  the  distance, 
dancing  about  like  a  will-o'-the-wisp.  On  nearer 
approach,  a  figure  in  sepulchral  cerements  becomes 
vaguely  outlined  behind  the  light,  looking  like  a  ghost 
in  search  of  his  tomb — so  slow  and  measured  the  step, 
so  weird  the  effect  of  the  white  dress  and  draping. 
Anxious  to  be  friendly,  while  improving  our  Arabic, 
we  saluted  such  passers  with  "  Peace  be  with  you," 
but  hearing  no  reply,  concluded  that  our  Arabic  was 
not,  as  yet,  "  as  she  is  spoke." 

At  various  places  we  heard  sounds  of  mirth  and 
music,  and  stopped   to  listen  and  watch  for  whatever 


GIBRALTAR  TO  TA^GIER.  7 

might  turn  up.  But  no  bluck-fuccd  slave  accosted  us 
in  myst(n'ious  fasliioii  and  invited  us  to  follow  him 
to — well,  anywhere.  One  musn't  ask  questions  when 
on  the  search  for  adventures. 

We  were  fast  becoming  rather  tired  of  our  wander- 
ings, and,  in  the  absence  of  anything  to  excite  the 
fancy  or  quicken  the  pulses,  wc  were  inclined  to  vote 
the  whole  thing  "  slow,"  when  suddenly  a  pronounced 
sound  of  revelry  struck  refreshingly  on  our  ears.  Wo 
at  once  held  a  council  of  war  with  our  guide,  from 
whom  we  learned  that  a  Jewish  wedding  was  being 
celebrated,  and  that  the  parties  would  feel  honoured 
by  our  presence.  Being  assured  that  our  appearance 
would  not  be  considered  an  unwarrantable  intrusion, 
we  passed  the  word,  "  l^isniillah  !  "  and  moved  forward. 

Traversing  a  narrow  passage,  we  boldly  pushed  our 
way,  till  suddenly  we  found  ourselves  in  a  small  patio 
or  court  in  the  centre  of  the  house,  round  which  ran 
galleries  giving  entrance  to  the  various  rooms,  thus 
securing  both  ventilation  and  privacy.  The  jw^io  on 
this  oecnsion  was  brilliantly  lightetl  up  with  lamp 
and  candle,  dis])layiiig  a  crowd  of  young  Spanish  Jews 
smoking  the  eternal  cigai'ette,  while  an  open  door 
revealed  an  interesting  bevy  of  black-eyed  women. 

Our  unannounced  appearance  was  greeted  by  a  sud- 
den cessation  of  the  conversation,  and  for  a  moment 
tobacco-smoke  ceased  to  curl  upwards.  All  eyes  were 
turned  upon  us.  An  awkward  moment  ensued.  We 
began  to  think  our  guide  had  deceived  us,  and  were 
abi)ut     to   retire   with    apologies,    when   a   young   lady. 


8  MOROCCO. 

apparently  an  altoudant  spii'it  of  tlie  house,  liurried 
up,  and  ^vitll  engaging  frankness  saluted  us  with 
"  Bon  jour." 

We  replied  with  extreme  cordiality,  and,  nothing 
loath,  allowed  ourselves  to  be  led  into  the  room 
bej'ond,  where  my  young  friend  was  soon  blushing 
liappily  among  the  bright  faces  and  scintillating  eyes 
of  the  circle  of  damsels  who  massed  themselves  around 
us.  We  speedily  felt  quite  at  our  ease — my  friend 
the  cynosure  of  every  black  eye,  and  I  myself,  in  the 
O'ole  of  a  philosophical  observer  of  mature  years,  finding 
amusement  in  watching  the  disgusted  faces  of  the 
young  Jews  and  the  animated  manners  and  ample 
charms  of  the  Jewesses. 

Unable  to  resist  our  tempters,  we  drank  cup  after 
cup  of  highly  sweetened  tea.  Our  conversation  was  of 
an  embarrassingh^  polyglot  character,  French,  Spanish, 
and  English  phrases  being  used  with  a  delightful  dis- 
regard of  their  meaning.  But  what  did  it  matter 
while  smiles,  laughter,  and  bright  glances  kept  every- 
body happy — except,  of  course,  the  young  men  out  in 
the  cold  of  the  jiatio. 

At  length,  across  the  pleasant  din  sounded  the 
twanging  notes  of  a  guitar,  and  a  general  movement 
showed  that  these  were  the  signal  for  a  dance. 

Forgetting  my  character  as  merely  "  a  chiel  amang 
them  takin'  notes,"  oblivious  also  of  the  mature  years 
I  have  alluded  to,  I  was  on  my  feet  in  an  instant,  and 
bending  in  respectful  salutation  to  the  ground  before 
a  jiliinip  maiden.      Ere  my  astonished  companion  reco- 


GIBRALTAR  TO  TANGIER.  9 

vered  his  surprise,  or  the  hidy's  countrymen  their 
breatli,  I  was  whirling  round  in  a  waltz.  l*olkas 
followed,  and  everything  went  as  merrily  and  decorously 
as  could  be  desired.  We  did  not,  however,  stop  there. 
In  the  interval  of  a  dance  my  friend  proposed  that  we 
should  go  through  the  steps  of  a  reel,  ''just  to  show 
them  a  thing  or  two,  you  know.''  At  first  I  made  a 
feeble  attempt  at  remonstrance,  but  at  that  moment 
the  guitarist  struck  up  something  which  had  a  distant 
rcsemljlanco  to  a  Scotcli  tune,  and  almost  before  I 
knew,  I  was  facing  C.-J3.  and  throwing  my  legs  about 
in  all  the  ahando/i  of  the  dance,  not  forgetting  to  give 
character  and  life  to  it  by  the  inspiring  "  hooch  "  that 
helps  to  stir  the  blood  of  Scottish  lads  and  lasses. 

Needless  to  say  our  terpsichorean  efforts  were  re- 
ceived with  applause  and  undisguised  admiration,  and  we 
retired  to  our  seats  in  blushing  triumph,  amidst  which, 
resuming  the  grave  character  which  sat  more  naturally 
upon  me,  I  wondered  at  the  fortuitous  concourse  of  cir- 
cumstances which  had  landed  us  at  a  Jew's  wedding  in 
Africa  to  dance  a  reel. 


(      lo     ) 


CHAPTER  II. 

MORNING  IN  TANGIER. 

When  I  awoke  next  raorning  it  was  still  dark.  Through 
the  latticed  shutters  and  open  window  of  my  bedroom  a 
delicious  breeze  found  its  way. 

While  I  lay  trying  to  realise  where  I  was  and 
gather  my  scattered  thoughts  back  from  their  dream- 
wanderings,  my  attention  was  arrested  by  certain 
sounds  which  suddenly  burst  upon  the  stillness  of  the 
morning,  and  came  to  my  ears  in  rich  Arabic  gutturals 
and  long-drawn  musical  cadence. 

My  knowledge  of  Arabic  was  of  the  slightest,  but  I 
had  not  travelled  in  Mohammedan  countries  without 
picking  up  some  knowledge  of  their  ways  and  customs^ 
and  I  knew  at  once  that  I  was  listening  to  the  jNfueddin 
calling  the  faithful  to  their  morning  spiritual  duty. 
"  Prayer  is  better  than  sleep  !  Prayer  is  better  than 
sleep  !  Come  to  prayers  !  Come  to  prayers  !  "  Such 
was  the  burthen  of  the  soul-stirring  cry,  which,  ema- 
nating from  the  minaret  of  the  neighbouring  mosque, 
vibrated  over  ''  tlie  city  protected  by  the  Lord,"  and 
rang  in  my  ears  with  an  overpowering  attraction  and 
impressiveness. 


MORM\G  L\  TANGIER.  1 1 

As  i  lay  ami  listened  to  the  long-drawn  syllables  of" 
the  summons,  I  could  not  but  recall  the  time  when  I 
last  heard  them.  It  was  in  the  Central  Sudan  and  the 
very  heart  of  Africa.  Negro  races  surrounded  me,  and 
the  land  lay  parched  and  desolate  under  the  burning 
brilliancy  of  a  tropical  sun.  'J^o  that  far-off  region 
Islam  had  ])enetr»ted,  and  finding  suitable  fuel,  had 
caught  tire  and  blazed  with  all  the  vigour  of  its  early 
days  in  the  deserts  of  Arabia,  bringing  in  its  wake  new 
life  and  energy,  and  the  seeds  of  civilisation.  There 
also  it  was  that  the  desire  to  visit  Morocco  first  took 
root  in  my  heart.  On  all  sides  I  had  remarked  the 
impress  of  j\Ioorish  ideas,  in  manners  and  customs,  and 
ill  the  character  of  arts  and  industries.  I  knew  that  for 
centuries  traders  from  ]\Iorocco  had  continued  to  cross  the 
desert,  braving  all  its  unparalleled  hardships  and  terrors, 
to  carry  to  the  natives  of  the  Sudan  such  good  things 
of  this  world  as  they  themselves  possessed,  and  spread 
before  them  promises  of  the  infinitely  greater  and  more 
glorious  things  of  another  if  they  would  but  acknow- 
ledge the  One  God  and  His  Prophet,  at  the  same  time 
threatening  them  with  all  the  terrors  of  Gehenna  if 
tliey  turned  not  from  their  evil  ways. 

The  result  of  that  commercial  intercourse  and  re- 
ligious teaching  I  had  seen  with  admiration.  It  had 
awakened  witliin  me  for  the  first  time  a  belief  in  the 
improvability  of  the  African  race.  And  now  I  liad 
come  to  one  of  the  parent  sources  to  see  what  jNFoorish 
art  was.  and  what  the  secret  of  the  wonderful  power 
of  islam. 


12  MOROCCO. 

INIorocco,  moreover,  spread  before  me  other  and  no 
less  potent  attractions.  For  centuries  it  had  been 
more  or  less  the  scene  of  European  warlike  or  com- 
mercial enterprise.  The  Romans  had  held  sway  over 
a  considerable  area  in  the  north.  Some  centuries 
later  tlie  Portuguese  had  laid  an  iron  hand  upon  its 
western  littoral,  and  there  left  striking  monuments  of 
their  former  greatness  and  commercial  vigour.  The 
British  too  had  had  a  footing  in  the  north,  and  our 
national  flag  had  waved  over  the  very  town  in  which 
I  lay. 

Nor  had  the  Spaniards  been  without  a  linger  in 
the  pie — a  finger  too  wliich,  unlike  Britain  and  Por- 
tugal, they  mean  to  retain  there,  pending  the  hour 
when  they  shall  endeavour  to  push  in  the  whole  hand 
and  arm,  and,  in  grasping  hold  of  the  inheritance  of 
the  !Moor,  wipe  out  the  stain  of  the  Moorish  domination 
in  Spain,  the  memory  of  which  still  rankles  deep  in 
their  hearts. 

In  spite,  however,  of  all  these  conquests  and  settle- 
ments, as  well  as  of  the  more  widely  spread  ramifica- 
tions of  commercial  enterprise,  Morocco,  though  at  the 
very  gate  of  Europe,  remains  one  of  the  most  impene- 
trable of  countries.  Till  this  day  large  areas  remain 
as  completely  unknown  as  many  parts  in  the  very 
heart  of  the  continent.  Religious  fanaticism  has  had 
much  to  do  with  the  continuance  of  this  state  of 
things,  making  everything  which  had  not  the  stamp 
of  Islam  an  abomination ;  but  a  not  unimportant 
factor  also  has  been  the  tjrowins:  fear  of  the  Christian 


MORMNG  IN  TANGIER.  13 

nations  they  despise,  who,  though  "  rebels  against 
CJod,''  have  been  given  tlie  arts  of  war  wliorewitli  to 
scourge  the  Faithful.  The  ]\loors  know  too  well  that 
the  Nazarenes  only  await  their  opportunity  to  pounce 
upon  them.  As  for  the  result,  well,  "  God  will  show." 
Meanwhile  their  policy  is  passive  resistance  and  com- 
plete isolation.  Keep  the  Christians  quarrelling  among 
themselves,  and  let  us  not  rouse  their  cupidity  by  the 
fertile  lands,  the  mineral  riches,  and  the  living  streams 
of  this  the  heritage  of  the  true  believers. 

To  penetrate  this  barrier  of  religious  fanaticism, 
hatred,  fear,  and  official  obstruction ;  to  strike  away 
from  the  oft-traversed  tourist  routes  and  penetrate  the 
unknown  provinces ;  but  more  especially  to  explore 
the  little  known  and  reputedly  dangerous  Atlas  Moun- 
tains, which  throughout  the  centuries  had  almost 
defied  the  curiosity  of  a  host  of  travellers,  was  the 
congenial  task  I  had  now  set  myself.  In  cari-ying 
out  my  geographical  programme,  I  did  not  doubt  but 
that  I  should  also  satisfy  the  original  desires  which 
had  turned  my  thoughts  to  Morocco,  and  learn  some- 
thing of  the  Moor  himself,  his  social  condition,  his 
religion,  his  mode  of  government,  as  well  as  his  arts 
and  industries. 

At  home  my  scheme  had  met  at  first  with  but  scant 
encouragement  from  those  who  knew,  as  well  as  those 
who  thought  they  knew,  something  about  Morocco  and 
the  Moors.  It  was  represented  that  any  attempt  to 
penetrate  tlie  Atlas  Mountains  in  the  present  condition 
of  the  country  could  only  end  in  disaster,  and  probably 


14  MOROCCO. 

death — so  eliective  was  the  official  obstruction,  so  dau- 
gerous  and  fanatical  the  ways  of  the  mountaineers. 

The  comments  of  my  geographical  friends,  however, 
had  failed  to  discourage  me.  I  had  never  been  accus- 
tomed to  shape  my  course  by  second-hand  reports,  and 
having  once  made  up  my  mind  to  go  to  the  Atlas 
Mountains,  1  was  determined  that  I  would  see  for  my- 
self what  was  possible  and  what  impossible  before  I 
altered  my  })lans. 

Once  it  was  seen  that  I  was  not  to  be  dissuaded, 
my  friends  bad  shown  a  most  gratifying  alacrity  in 
doing  everything  in  their  power  to  assist  me.  The 
Hoyal  and  the  Royal  Geographical  Societies,  Lord 
Salisbury  as  Foreign  Secretary,  and  Sir  Joseph  Hooker 
— whose  hints  and  advice  wei'e  invaluable — all  had 
vied  with  each  other  in  putting  me  in  the  most  favour- 
able position  possible  to  do  good  work — making  me 
feel  (if  they  did  nothing  else)  that  it  would  be  a 
terrible  disgrace  if  I  did  not  fulfil  to  some  extent  the 
trust  they  placed  in  me — a  healthier  inspiration  un- 
doubtedly than  tliat  arising  from  the  determination  to 
succeed  because  i'ailure  had  been  predicted. 

On  previous  African  journeys  I  had  travelled  alone, 
in  weary  isolation  from  all  civilised  intercourse.  In 
this  trip  circumstances  had  led  me  to  try  a  companion. 
An  enthusiastic  young  friend — henceforth  in  these 
pages  to  be  known  as  O.-B.  (Lieutenant  Harold  Ci-ichton- 
Lrowne,  2ud  JJatt.  King's  Own  Scottish  Borderers) — 
anxious  to  see  something  of  African  travelling  and  widen 
his  experience  of  life,  had  volunteered   to  accompany 


MORXING  IN  TANGIER.  15 

1110,  ami  sliure  my  hard.sliips,  danj^'ers,  and  expenses,  and 
1  had  agreed  at  once  to  the  proposal. 

Once  everything  was  arranged  we  had  soon  com- 
pleted our  preparations,  and  left  England  on  the  9th 
of  March,  arriving  at  Tangier,  as  I  have  already 
described,  on  the  i  7th  of  the  same  mouth. 

By  the  time  I  had  finished  my  retrospect  of  the 
chain  of  events  which  liad  led  to  my  being  where  I  was, 
tlie  day  had  not  only  dawned,  but  the  sun  had  risen. 

(letting  up  myself,  and  eager  to  commence  my  ex- 
ploration of  the  town,  my  first  care  was  to  visit  the 
neighbouring  bedroom.  There,  oblivious  of  Mueddins 
and  everything  else,  lay  C.-B.  sound  asleep. 

"  What !  not  up  yet  ?  Look  here  !  "  I  cried,  as, 
drawing  back  the  curtains  from  the  window  and  push- 
ing open  the  Venetian  shutters,  a  glorious  flood  of  light 
tilled  the  room  and  dazzled  the  half-opened  eyes  of  my 
friend. 

Before  us  a  succession  of  whitewashed  houses  rose 
tier  above  tier,  reflecting  back  the  rays  of  the  morning 
sun  with  blinding  power. 

Minaret  and  dome  rising  from  mosques  relieved  the 
somewhat  monotonous  aspect  of  the  house- terraced  slope, 
while  the  battlemented  walls  and  frowning  ramparts  of 
the  Kasbah  or  citadel,  which  overlooks  the  town,  formed 
a  broken  outline  projected  sharply  against  the  marvel- 
lously deep  blue  of  the  sky. 

In  opening  that  winelow  we  have  transported  our- 
selves from  Europe  to  Africa.  Right  beneath  our  win- 
dow, on  the  other  side  of  the  four-feet  broad  street,  we 


i6  MOROCCO. 

peep  into  a  native  scliool,  and  see  small  boys  squatting 
on  the  fiooi'  round  a  venerable  be-turbaned  Taleh  or 
teacher,  while,  with  blatant  discord  and  much  sway- 
ing of  bodies,  they  repeat  vociferously  texts  from  the 
Koran  inscribed  on  wooden  boards,  thus  learning  at 
once  the  precepts  of  their  faith  and  a  smattering  of 
classic  Arabic. 

Farther  off  we  hear  some  wildly  attractive  though 
barbaric  music,  with  shouting,  singing,  and  firing  of 
guns,  which  we  conclude  must  proceed  from  a  wed- 
ding-procession. 

Tantalising  we  find  it  in  the  extreme  to  crane  our 
necks  and  look  down  on  the  /ica/j-draped  Moors  or 
blanket-shrouded  females  of  the  race.  We  are  too 
high  up  to  see  their  gazelle-like  eyes,  and  can  only 
feel  in  imagination  their  irresistible  glances. 

As  we  bathe  in  the  wealth  of  morning  light,  see 
overhead  the  clear  blue  sky,  and  feel  our  faces  fanned 
by  the  fresh  breeze,  we  cannot  but  picture  the  environ- 
ment of  our  friends  at  home,  who  are  beginning  to 
struggle  reluctantly  out  of  bed,  and  shiver  in  their 
cold  rooms,  while  they  curse  the  sleet,  the  rain,  the 
east  winds,  the  fog,  and  their  luck  generally.  We 
generously  wish  we  could  send  them  some  Moorish 
weather,  or  mix  for  them  a  pot  of  our  local  colour. 

Our  first  duty  after  breakfast  was  to  call  upon  His 
Excellency  Sir  William  Kirby  Green,  our  Minister  to 
the  Court  of  Morocco.  Bent  on  business,  we  shut  our 
eyes  to  everything  that  would  have  detained  or  led  us 
astray  from  the  road  to  the  Legation. 


MORNLXG  IN  TAXGIliR.  17 

This  centre  of  IJritish  inilueiice  was  loiintl  to  bo 
niotk'stly  liidden,  well  out  of  the  way.  A\'itli  due  tbi'- 
luality  we  were  ushered  into  the  presence  of  His 
J"]xcellenc3%  wondering  what  was  to  be  his  attitude  to 
our  enterprise.  AVe  were  soon  put  at  our  ease  in  that 
respect.  We  found  ourselves  before  the  most  genial 
and  good-natured  of  men,  who  gave  us  more  courage 
by  the  cheering  way  in  which  he  spoke  of  our  pro- 
spects. He  had  already  taken  steps  to  obtain  a  letter 
or  firman  for  us  from  the  Sultan,  which  would  be  of 
use  to  us  in  places,  but  which  he  was  careful  to  explain 
would  be  an  obstruction  to  us  in  the  most  important 
parts  if  we  were  not  judicious  in  showing  or  suppress- 
ing it  as  circumstances  demanded. 

We  left  the  Legation  in  a  most  hopeful  spirit,  feel- 
ing that,  socially  at  least,  our  country  could  have  no 
better  representative.  Later  on  we  also  learned  that, 
diplomatically,  we  had  the  right  man  in  the  right 
place.  Our  policy  previous  to  his  arrival  had  threa- 
tened to  get  into  grooves  which  were  not  only  detri- 
mental to  our  own  but  also  to  Morocco's  best  interests  ; 
but  happily  Sir  William  had  arrived  in  time  to  strike 
out  in  new  and  better  lines  before  much  mischief  had 
been  done. 


(     i8     ) 


CHAPTEll  111. 

A   STROLL   THROUGH  TANGIER. 

We  were  fated  to  commence  our  trip  with  tlie  cliarac- 
teristic  experience  of  the  tra^'eller  in  Oriental  lands. 
For  nearly  three  weeks  we  waited  patiently  the  arrival 
of  the  Sultan's  letter,  and  had  abundant  opportunities 
to  improve  our  acquaintance  with  Tangier. 

To  one  who  had  seen  a  few  of  the  less  adulterated 
cities  of  the  shining  Orient,  "the  city  protected  of  the 
Lord  "  was  something  of  a  disappointment,  and  by  no 
means  fulfilled  the  expectations  aroused  by  our  first 
glimpses  of  it  when  bathed  in  all  the  glory  and  the 
glamour  of  the  setting  and  rising  sun. 

Let  us  take  a  haphazard  ramble  and  note  its  charac- 
teristic sights  and  scenes.  We  are  soon  mounted,  and 
giving  our  animals  their  heads,  we  commit  ourselves  to 
the  guidance  of  Allah.  Our  road,  it  seems,  leads  back 
towards  the  gate  of  the  Customs,  from  wdiich  we  once 
more  diverge  up  a  comparatively  straight,  badly-paved 
street. 

We  speedily  call  a  halt  to  admire  the  fine  horse- 
shoe-shaped doorway  of  the  principal  mosque  of  Tan- 
gier.    Graceful  arabesques  in  stucco,  and  tile- work  in 


A   STROLL   THROUGLI   TANGIER.  19 

geometrical  patterns  ornament  its  line  curves,  while 
effective  deep  mouldings  form  a  species  of  eaves  over- 
head. AMiile  we  crane  our  necks  to  peep  inside,  and 
with  truly  infidel  curiosity  long  to  explore  its  cool 
courts  and  sacred  precincts,  the  Mueddin  far  up  in  the 
tower,  with  face  turned  to  the  holy  East,  commences 
to  call  the  ]\ru.ssulmans  to  prayer.  But  alas  !  looking 
around,  we  see  more  listeners  among  Jews  and  Gentiles 
than  among  those  who  are  destined  to  enjoy  the 
])leasures  of  Paradise.  It  is  easy  to  understand  how 
liitter  must  he  the  feelings  of  the  pious  Moor  who  on 
his  way  to  the  mosque  has  to  ])ass  the  tobacco  and 
drink  shops,  the  post  and  telegraph  offices,  and  other 
infidel  abominations  which  have  sprung  up  under  the 
very  shadow  of  the  sacred  structure. 

Our  restive  horses,  however,  will  not  permit  us  to 
moralise  in  comfort,  and  we  pass  on. 

There  being  nothing  else  of  an  architectural  character 
to  stay  our  wandering  eyes,  we  commence  our  search 
for  the  grave  and  dignified  as  well  as  superbly  dressed 
Moov  of  our  dreams.  On  all  sides,  however,  we  are 
confronted  by  grizzly-faced  scarecrows  frt)m  the  other 
side  of  the  Straits,  who  have  apparently  left  their 
country  for  their  country's  good.  Our  eager  outlook 
for  the  gazelle-eyed  and  veiled  IMoorish  beauties  of 
whom  we  had  had  daily  visions  on  our  way  hitlier  is 
equally  fruitless.  Only  black-eyed  Spanish  and  Jewish 
damsels  meet  us  at  every  turn,  displaying  on  their 
])ersons  the  latest  reputed  Parisian  costume  and  newest 
fashion  in  dres.s-iniprovers. 


20  MOROCCO. 

Notliing  dauntetl,  thouj^h  disappointed,  we  mount 
the  street  intently  on  the  watcli  for  the  genuine 
article.  We  peep  into  box-like  erections  which  do 
duty  for  shops,  in  the  expectation  of  discovering  placid 
Moors,  cross-legged,  picturesquely  enveloped,  and  almost 
lost  in  huge  turbans,  while,  more  bent  on  laying  up 
treasure  in  heaven  than  on  earth,  they  repeat  as  they 
count  their  beads  the  sacred  titles  of  Allah.  But  no  ! 
Only  hawk-nosed  Jews,  with  greedy  eyes  burning  with 
the  hope  of  prey,  jump  to  their  feet,  and,  clawing  the 
air  with  their  fingers,  invite  us  in  broken  English  or 
French  to  inspect  their  wares.  As  we  hurry  on,  we 
wonder  what  special  curses  the  Moors  have  in  their 
rich  rejjertoirc  to  hurl  at  the  sons  of  Judah,  that  we 
might  learn  them  for  our  own  future  use. 

It  is  almost  with  a  sigh  of  relief  that,  nearing 
the  head  of  the  street  and  the  inner  gateway  of  the 
town,  we  come  at  last  upon  something  genuinely 
Moorish.  Here  a  number  of  women  sit  huddled 
together,  showing,  however,  a  shocking  disregard  to 
native  notions  of  decency  by  having  their  withered 
faces  exposed  while  they  wait  the  will  of  Allah  and 
the  arrival  of  purchasers  of  their  small  stock  of  eggs, 
butter,  fowls,  &c.  -^g^,  ugliness,  dirt,  rags,  and 
poverty  are  their  portion ;  but  nevertheless  we  look 
upon  them  with  more  interest  and  pleasure,  though 
not  without  a  touch  of  melancholy,  than  upon  the 
European  lady-tourists  who  ride  past  us  at  the  moment 
on  what  we  guess  to  be  diminutive  asses,  from  the  pro- 
minence and  shape  of  the  huge  ears  and  the  irrepres- 


A   STROLL   THROUGH  TANGIER.  21 

slblo  wag  of"  the  tails,  which  project  from  beneath  the 
voluminous  skirts  of  tlu'ir  riders. 

The  disappointment  which  we  have  experienced  so 
far  somcwliat  disappears  as  wo  pass  thi'ougli  the  small 
market-places,  the  surrounding  walls  of  which  form  a 
series  of  inner  I'ortificatiDUS. 

Passing  through  the  outer  gateway,  we  emerge  upon 
the  market-place  proper,  and  are  suddenly  confronted 
with  a  seething  mass  of  white-robed  ])eople,  all  in  an 
excited  tremor  and  movement,  and  all  talking  and 
shouting — nobody  apparently  listening. 

The  idea  is  irresistibly  suggested  that  here  is  a 
vision  of  what  a  graveyard  would  look  like  at  the  last 
(lay,  before  the  newly-risen  had  Inlly  realised  their 
position  Of  had  time  to  divest  themselves  of  their 
grave-clothes,  while  eagerly  demanding  of  each  other 
where  they  were  and  what  was  going  on. 

Ikit  while,  from  our  point  of  vantage  on  horseback, 
we  cannot  but  sit  and  admire  the  general  effect  of 
the  striking  spectacle — becowled  Moors  of  the  town, 
blanket-draped  women,  bareheaded  wild-looking  Berbers 
from  the  KMIf  Mountains,  weather-beaten  and  poorly- 
dressed  Arabs  from  the  country,  and  caftan  or  blue 
j<//((hi(i-c]iid  Jews  mingling  in  the  most  quaint  and 
bizarre  fashion — wo  are  not  oblivious  to  the  rich 
odour  arising  from  the  indescribable  filth,  wliidi  turns 
the  market-place  in  the  rainy  season  into  a  veritable 
tlunghill  of  the  most  offensive  description.  Doubtless 
we  had  all  anticipated  the  romantic  pleasure  of  tasting 
salt   with   the   Arabs    and    livin<'    in    a   ifaar  or   tent- 


22  MOROCCO. 

village  ;  but  we  were  not  disposed,  from  what  we  saw, 
to  test  tlieir  proverbial  hospitality.  To  have  passed 
the  night  in  any  of  the  gunny-bag  and  rag-made  tents 
which  we  saw  pitched  at  one  corner  of  the  sloping 
ground,  in  close  proximity  to  a  dead  donkey  and 
camel,  which  had  met  their  fate  overnight,  would  have 
been  a  proceeding  more  romantic  than  pleasing.  Never- 
theless the  soJc  or  market  is  a  perfectly  inexhaus- 
tible mine  of  subjects  to  the  artist.  AVithout  going 
farther  afield,  he  may  there  sketch  for  himself  almost 
everything  that  is  most  interesting  and  characteristic 
of  Moorish  life. 

It  is  in  the  Kasbah,  however,  that  we  shall  find  most 
delight,  undisturbed  by  the  incongruous  elements  that 
so  far  have  dogged  our  every  movement.  The  Kasbah 
is  a  quarter  of  the  city  where  the  Moor  has  so  far  been 
able  to  keep  out  Nazarene  abominations,  and  reserved 
solely  for  the  abode  of  those  who  acknowledge  the  one 
God  and  his  Prophet. 

Passing  through  the  gateway  near  our  hotel,  we 
enter  this  interesting  region.  Our  first  impression  is 
disappointing.  We  have  been  buoying  ourselves  up 
with  the  expectation  of  meeting  something  more  attrac- 
tive in  Moorish  architecture  than  the  low  and  mean 
buildings  we  have  so  far  seen.  But  here,  as  else- 
where, we  find  few  touches  of  the  artistic  genius  and 
graceful  fancy  we  have  been  accustomed  to  attribute 
to  the  Moors.  We  look  in  vain  along  the  mono- 
tonous expanse  of  whitewashed  walls  for  a  projecting 
latticed  window,  such   as  we  had  been  accustomed  to 


A   STROLL   TIIROUCII  TANGIER.  23 

see  in  the  East,  and  which  suggest  to  the  romantic 
imagination  of  untravelled  travellers  all  that  is  meant 
by  the  word  "  harem." 

We  thread  tortuous  narrow  lanes,  aliv^e  with  small 
Mussulmans  with  bright  eyes  and  heads  close  shaved, 
except  where  a  lock  is  left  for  the  convenience  of  the 
angel  who  has  in  due  time  to  hoist  them  into  heaven. 
They  are  generally  in  their  dress  quaint  counterparts 
of  their  parents,  except  that  bright  colours  are  more 
commonly  worn.  We  listen  with  delight,  as  we  pass 
groups  of  them,  to  their  shrill  piping  voices  consigning 
the  bones  of  our  ancestors  to  a  tiery  fate,  plainly  show- 
ing that  even  in  Tangier  there  are  pious  parents  who 
bring  up  their  children  in  the  way  they  should  go. 

We  remark  also  that  here  the  men  walk  about  with 
a  different  air.  Dignity  and  ease  are  in  their  step, 
and  a  holy  assurance  of  heaven  in  their  countenance. 
Their  haiks  embrace  their  ample  persons  in  creamy, 
gauzy  folds,  and  with  an  artistic  grace  unseen  in  other 
parts  of  the  town.  Even  their  turbans  have  taken  to 
themselves  added  fulness,  and  overhang  their  tanned 
and  bearded  faces  like  wreathed  masses  of  snow. 

Nor  are  we  long  in  discovering  that  in  the  Kasbah 
we  have  glimpses  of  something  far  different  from  the 
rheumy-oyed  and  shrivelled  women  of  the  market-place. 
Animated  bundles  of  clothes  glide  down  the  street ;  and 
as  we  pass  their  jealously-veiled  charms,  we  ai-e  only 
permitted  a  glint  of  a  pair  of  laughing  brown  eyes, 
which  from  their  encircling  vi'il  peep  like  twin  stars 
from  a  rit't  in  a  tloecy  cloud. 


24  MOROCCO. 

At  places  we  have  to  stand  aside  while  a  wedding 
procession  passes ;  the  bridegroom,  with  face  covered, 
riding  on  horseback,  surrounded  ])y  his  friends,  who 
shout,  sing,  dance,  and  fire  their  guns,  while  pipes  and 
drums  keep  up  a  continuous  din. 

Of  no  less  interest,  though  of  a  more  melancholy 
nature,  is  a  funeral  procession  of  some  one  who  has 
paid  the  debt  of  nature,  and  wrapped  in  his  shroud, 
is  being  hurried  off  on  an  open  bier  to  his  last  resting- 
place.  His  friends  are  also  about  him,  but  not  dancing 
and  firing  guns,  only  incessantly  chanting  with  mournful 
voices  and  monotonous  iteration  the  central  doctrine  of 
the  Moslim  faith,  "  There  is  no  God  but  God,  and 
JMohammed  is  his  Prophet." 

Through  such  scenes  we  slowly  and  lingeringly 
pass,  till,  making  a  sharp  ascent  of  some  twenty  feet, 
we  find  ourselves  at  the  gateway  of  the  Kasbah  proper. 
This  is  the  residence  of  the  governor,  and  is  strongly 
fortified,  not  only  to  protect  itself  from  and  overawe 
the  town,  but  also  as  a  special  place  of  strength  in 
case  of  outside  attack.  At  this  point  we  cannot  but 
halt  to  take  a  look  over  the  town  we  have  left  lying 
in  its  sheltering  niche,  like  a  snowdrift  nestling  on 
a  greeu  hillside.  From  no  ]ioint  of  view,  to  my 
mind,  does  Tangier  look  so  beautiful  and  virginal, 
especially  towards  sunset,  as  from  this  particular  gate- 
way of  the  Kasbah. 

Entering  the  military  precincts,  we  cross  some 
puddles,  wind  round  a  few  dunghills,  and  then  stop 
to  view  a  graceful   colonnade  with   marble  pillars  and 


A   STROI.I.   rilROVGU   TAKGIliK.  25 

Corinthian  capitals,  reseniLliiii^  a  cool,  aiiy  Italian 
loiTiria.  On  the  riifht,  and  facinir  the  entrance,  a 
llit^'ht  of  steps  leads  up  to  another  open  colonnade 
of  distinctly  Moorish  character,  with  horseshoe-sliaped 
arches  and  slender  pillars.  Seen  by  moonlight,  'J'an- 
gier  presents  no  more  beautiful  and  romantic  sitrht 
than  this. 

]\Iorocco  is  a  land  of  stronfjc  contrasts.  Our  guide 
calls  us  from  the  contemplation  of  these  graceful 
triumphs  of  architecture,  and  draws  our  attention  to 
what  looks  like  a  peep-hole  in  a  door.  On  nearer 
approach,  a  sickening  odour  assails  our  sense  of  smell, 
and  nearly  drives  us  back.  Mustering  up  courage, 
we  peep  in,  and  see  before  us  a  dungeon  plunged 
in  semi-night,  in  which  lie  numbers  of  chained  and 
half-starved  criminals.  Turning  from  the  disgusting 
scene,  we  proceed  to  the  left,  pass  an  open  door,  which 
gives  us  a  view  of  the  governor  of  the  town  in  full 
divan,  administering  justice  as  it  has  been  adminis- 
tered for  centuries.  Next  we  traverse  a  narrow  lane, 
till,  reaching  a  battered  door,  we  are  led  into  a  dark 
and  dirty  passage,  such  as  one  might  expect  to  lead 
to  the  deserted  stable  of  an  old  farmhouse.  Passiner 
through  this  and  round  one  or  two  corners,  we  sud- 
denly emerge  upon  a  court  with  tesselated  floor,  flooded 
by  the  light  of  the  afternoon  sun,  made  almost  Ijliud- 
ing  by  the  reilection  from  the  newly  Avhitewashed 
walls.  In  the  centre  of  the  court  bubbles  a  fountain 
in  a  marble  basin,  and  around  it  runs  a  cnnl.  shelterinor 
colonnade  of  marble  ]>illai's. 


26  MOROCCO. 

From  each  side  of  this  tesselated  and  pillared  court 
handsomely  carved  and  painted  doors  give  entrance 
to  corresponding  windowless  apartments.  These  are 
the  rooms  which  are  being  prepared  in  expectation 
of  the  arrival  of  the  Sultan. 

We  can  hardly  believe  our  eyes  on  seeing  the  rich 
ornamentation  in  stucco,  tile,  and  painted  arabesque 
which  cover  their  walls.  A  dado  of  tiles  arranged  in 
the  most  intricate  of  geometrical  patterns  runs  round 
the  room,  having  an  upper  row  with  glazed  scroll- 
work, or  equally  beautiful  texts  from  the  Koran,  so 
that  the  sacred  words  shall  always  be  before  the  be- 
liever in  Islam.  What  appears  to  us  quaintest  and 
most  beautiful  is  a  deep  recess  or  niche  forming  a 
half  dome  in  sculptured  and  painted  stalactitic  wood- 
work, the  graceful  pendants  gleaming  with  bright 
gold,  set  off  by  more  subdued  tints  of  red  and  black. 
From  the  niche  we  accidentally  turn  our  eyes  upward, 
to  be  further  delighted  by  the  wonderful  arrangement 
of  polygonal  and  circular  domes  which  form  the  ceil- 
ing, and  are  likewise  painted  in  the  remarkable  geome- 
trical patterns  which  are  the  special  delight  of  the 
Moorish  artist,  piously  bent  on  seeking  the  beautiful 
without  attempting  to  portray  the  works  of  Allah  either 
in  flower,  fruit,  or  animal. 

The  beautiful  stucco-work  which  surrounds  the 
niches  and  adorns  the  walls  over  the  doorway  gives 
us  new  pleasure,  and  forms  a  sti-iking  example  of  the 
inventiveness  and  artistic  genius,  as  well  as  the  execu- 
tive skill,  of  the  workmen  of  former  days. 


A   STROIJ.   Til  ROUGH  TANGIER.  27 

Wc  leave  this  charming  artistic  oasis  in  the  wide 
waste  of  dirt  and  ugliness,  and  continue  our  way 
through  the  precincts  of  the  Kasbah,  till,  passing 
through  a  massive  gateway,  we  find  ourselves  outside 
the  town. 

We  saunter  along  a  narrow  lane  walled  in  by  giant 
grasses,  through  which  aloes  and  prickly  pears  push 
their  huge  stiff  spines  or  prickly  bulbous  stumps,  giving 
support  to  bramble,  convolvulus,  and  periwinkle,  and 
a  profusion  of  geraniums,  lilies,  and  irises. 

From  this  deliofhtful  tangle  of  vegetation  we  emerge 

coo  o 

upon  a  breezy  and  grassy  expanse  called  the  i\farshan. 
From  this  height  we  are  able  to  take  in  at  a  glance 
all  the  more  striking  aspects  of  Tangier  and  its  sur- 
roundings. 

And  a  glorious  and  impressive  sight  it  is.  Beneath 
us  lies  the  town  in  all  its  snow-white  loveliness.  Its 
margin  is  bathed  by  the  blue  waters  of  the  little  bay. 
Glittering  sands  are  heaped  in  soft  rounded  masses  to 
the  south,  while  east  and  north  undulatinor  ofrass  and 
grove- clad  heights  form  a  cradle  in  which  the  town 
snugly  reclines. 

Looking  across  the  bay  in  a  wider  survey,  our  eyes 
first  rest  upon  some  rounded  hills  whose  palmetto-clad 
slopes  have  a  forcible  resemblance  to  heathery  hill- 
sides. Beyond  we  see  the  dark  picturesque  mass  of  the 
southern  Pillar  of  Hercules,  now  less  imaginatively 
termed  the  Ape's  Hill.  From  this  prominent  height 
our  gaze  is  drawn  southward  along  the  Andjera  range 
till    it    rests    on    the    macrnificent    masses   of  the    Uiff 


28  MOROCCO. 

JMountains,  prominent  among  which  rises  Beni  Hos- 
niar,  at  whose  foot  lies  the  interesting  town  of 
Tetuan. 

Turning  gradually  round,  we  glance  along  a  magni- 
ficent stretch  of  undulating  ridges,  rising  from  fertile 
hollows  and  ending  in  mountain  masses,  till,  east- 
ward, our  eyes  rest  on  the  cistus-clad  heights  of  Jebel 
Kebir,  whose  sandstone  and  limestone  rocks  form  Cape 
Spartel.  The  lower  slopes  have  become  the  heritage  of 
the  Nazarene,  and  from  cedar  or  eucalyptus  groves,  or 
among  sunny  rose-scented  gardens,  rise  the  houses  of 
many  Europeans,  who,  attracted  by  the  balmy  air,  blue 
skies,  and  bright  sunshine,  have  forsaken  their  own 
countries  and  commenced  a  new  life  liere.  They  may 
well  call  their  houses  by  such  names  as  Bella  Vista,  for 
that  is  by  no  means  a  too  good  title  for  the  fair  pro- 
spect of  hill  and  sea  on  which  they  look  down  from 
their  airy  heights. 

Our  survey  of  Tangier  and  its  surroundings  is  com- 
plete when,  looking  north  over  the  disturbed  Straits, 
we  remark  the  yellow  sand-dunes  of  Tarifa,  where  the 
Moors  first  set  foot  on  Spanish  soil,  and  the  dark 
sierras  which  close  the  view  behind.  Not  least,  how- 
ever, is  the  interest  with  which  we  follow  the  Spanish 
coast-line  eastwai'd  till  we  descry  in  the  dimming  haze 
of  distance  a  grey  rock,  and  know  that  there  floats 
the  British  flag.  As  we  recall  the  sights  and  scenes 
we  have  just  passed  through  on  our  way  to  the 
Marshan — see  before  us,  in  fact,  that  curious  Oriental 
town — and  consider  that  at  the  proper  hour  we  may 


A  STROLL  THROUGH  TANGIER.  29 

liear  tlie  inoniiiig  luul  i-vcnin^  guns  from  the  liritish 
garrison  across  the  narrow  Straits,  we  are  irresistibly 
drawn  into  making  certain  edifying  reflections. 

The  passing  traveller  of  course  has  no  means  of  pene- 
trating the  armour  of  reserve  in  which  the  ]\Iour  clothes 
himself,  and  therefore  can  I'uriii  no  idea  of  the  inner 
workings  of  his  mind  ;  but  an  observant  person  cannot 
pass  a  few  days  knocking  about  the  town  without 
being  struck  by  a  very  remarkable  fact. 

Here  we  have  a  town  almost  in  touch  with  Europe, 
inlnibited  by  a  people  of  no  small  intelligence,  and  who 
daily  come  in  contact  witli  Europeans  politically,  com- 
mercially, even  to  a  certain  extent  socially,  and  who 
yet  seem  to  be  absolutely  unaffected  by  the  influences 
that  are  thus  brought  to  bear  on  them.  Unlike  almost 
all  other  peoples  on  the  face  of  the  earth,  the  traveller 
will  not  see  on  the  most  abject  beggar  the  trace  of  a 
cast-ofl'  coat  of  a  European.  It  is  the  same  with  all 
classes.  Nowhere  can  one  see  the  slightest  evidence 
that  the  Moor's  dress,  his  manners  and  customs,  his 
ideas,  religious  or  secular,  or  any  other  aspect  of  his 
life,  have  been  modified  in  the  slightest  degree.  He 
might  be  the  inhabitant  of  another  planet,  whose  men- 
tal and  physical  constitution  rendered  it  absolutely 
impossible  to  make  his  ways  our  ways.  He  carries 
about  with  him  an  impenetrable  barrier,  which  so  far 
has  only  permitted  the  passage  among  the  more  reck- 
less and  depraved  of  such  pleasing  European  influences 
as  cigarette-smoking  and  brandy-drinking,  and  the 
adding  to  his  already  I'ich  repertoire  of  profane  phrases 


30  MOROCCO. 

ot"  a  few  choice  forms  di'awn  from  Spanish  criminals 
and  British  sailors.  That,  I  think,  may  safely  be  said 
to  be  the  sum-total  of  what  the  Moor  has  gained  from 
the  Christian  during  the  centuries  he  has  been  more 
or  less  in  intercourse  with  him. 


BOY   AND  BEGGAR. 


(     3'     ) 


CilAlTKll  IV. 

TANGIER  TO  A Z AMOR. 

On  tlie  31-J  of  April  the  loug-expected  letter  from  the 
Sultan  arrived  at  Tangier.  Its  opening  quotation 
from  the  Koran,  "  There  is  no  help  nor  sti'ength  but 
in  God,"  sufficiently  indicated  its  contents  (see  Appen- 
dix A.),  for  it  clearly  stated  that  we  were  to  receive 
no  protection  from  the  "  Sharifian  Umbrella,"'  nor  help 
from  the  Government  authorities,  except  in  the  fre- 
(juented  routes  and  cities  of  the  Sultan's  "happy 
dominions."  The  mountains  and  reputedly  dangerous 
parts  were  expressly  interdicted  to  us ;  and  as  these 
were  the  very  places  where  we  desired  to  intrude  our 
infidel  foot,  the  prospect  was  by  no  means  encouraging. 
It  seemed,  indeed,  as  if  our  sole  chance  of  seeing  the 
Atlas  iSIountains  would  be  ''  as  prisoners  to  the  moun- 
taineers,"' as  the  personage  who  had  the  character  of 
knowing  Morocco  better  than  anybody  else  cheeringly 
suggested. 

To  all  discouragements,  however,  there  could  be  but 
one  answer.  We  must  go  and  see  for  ourselves  what 
could  and  what  could  not  be  done. 

At   mid-day  on   the    5th   we   left  Tangier  on  board 


32  MOROCCO. 

the  Einpusa.)  the  interest  of  our  departure  quite  over- 
shadowed by  tlie  attempted  arrest  by  the  British  Con- 
suhir  authorities  of  a  Mogador  Jew  wlio  had  made 
himself  notorious  in  some  recent  English  theatrical 
scandals.  The  wily  Jew  was  too  sharp  for  them,  how- 
ever, and  before  the  steamer  left  the  harbour  he  was 
on  board  bound  for  his  native  place. 

Ere  we  rounded  Cape  Spartel  we  were  sadly  gazing 
into  the  pitiless  sea,  though  we  did  our  best  to  turn 
our  lack-lustre  eyes  on  the  interesting  shore,  and 
develop  a  classic  rapture  over  the  Caves  of  Hercules, 
which  we  knew  to  be  there. 

Once  round  the  sheltering  cape,  matters  became 
worse.  The  south-west  winds  were  blowing  their 
hardest,  driving  before  them  the  long  heavy  rollers  from 
the  Atlantic,  and  hurling  them  upon  the  shore,  only 
to  surge  back  with  a  nasty  choppy  movement,  which 
tumbles  the  passing  ship  about  and  upsets  even  sea- 
soned sea-goers. 

We  found  ourselves  unable  to  communicate  with  El 
Araishe  or  Raljat,  and  we  were  not  in  a  fit  condition  to 
take  much  note  of  the  distant  views  they  presented. 

On  the  8  th  we  arrived  off  Casablanca,  at  which  we 
were  able  to  land  cargo.  Here  we  suddenly  made  up 
our  minds  to  leave  the  steamer  and  travel  overland  to 
Mogador,  which  was  to  be  the  real  starting-point  of 
our  trip.  It  occurred  to  us  that  we  might  not  have 
another  opportunity  of  seeing  the  coast  provinces,  and 
we  wondered  that  we  had  not  thought  of  it  before. 
Our  enemies  have  insinuated  that  the  state  of  the  sea 


TANGIER  TO  A Z AMOR.  33 

had  stiimilated  or  originated  our  f^udden  clmnfre  of 
purpose  ;  but  those  who  know  us  will  also  know  how 
to  treat  such  invidious  suggestions. 

Our  minds  made  up,  we  did  not  take  long  to  throw 
u  few  travelling  necessaries  together,  and  soon  we  found 
ourselves  established  in  a  small  inn  kept  by  one  Arturo 
]*itto.  We  had  a  glorious  lunch  after  our  privation 
of  the  past  three  days.  Afterwards  we  took  a  stroll 
throui^h  the  town,  returning  with  these  notes  towards 
the  evening.  Casablanca  occupies  a  flat,  low-lying 
piece  of  ground  close  to  the  sea ;  the  houses  have  not 
a  single  feature  worth  remarking  ;  the  principal  street 
is  a  running  sewer  of  filth,  largely  due  to  the  late  rains 
and  the  enormous  herds  of  cattle  which  pass  along  it 
morning  and  evening ;  the  people  are  more  ugly  and 
dirty,  the  donkeys  worse  treated  and  more  mangy,  the 
dogs  more  numerous  and  repulsive,  and  the  beggars  in 
greater  numbers  and  decidedly  more  importunate  and 
loathsouie,  than  in  any  of  the  other  places  we  had  yet 
seen.  The  country  around  is  flat,  treeless,  and  unin- 
teresting, but  decidedly  fertile.  During  the  summer 
there  is  a  considerable  trade  in  wool,  and  in  the  autumn 
a  still  greater  traffic  in  grain. 

On  the  loth  the  sonorous  voices  of  the  various 
Mueddins  calling  the  Salat  el  Fejir  (prayers  at  dawn) 
were  sufficient  to  wake  us  to  our  practical  duties,  and 
before  sunrise  we  had  cheerfully  paid  Arturo's  modest 
bill,  and  suitably  acknowledged  the  "  God  speeds  "  of 
such  dependants  on  the  good  providence  of  Allah  as 
had  gathered  to  see  us  off'  and  give  us  an  opportunity 

C 


34 


MOROCCO. 


of  exercising  tlie  cardinal  virtue  of  charity  ere  we  left 
the  town.  A  handsome  soldier,  with  military  peaked 
fez,  and  the  snow-white  hnrnons,  and  voluminous  haik 
which  showed  that  he  was  a  Irdd  or  officer,  bestrode  a 
well-caparisoned  grey  horse,  and  acted  as  our  guide 
and  escort,  the  living  symbol  that  we  travelled  under 
the  special  protection  of  the  Sultan. 

A   long   flint-lock  gun  lying  across  the  pommel   of 


OVli    SciLDIER-GUIDE. 


his  saddle  or  resting  on  his  knee  warned  all  passers- 
by  of  the  deadly  danger  of  molesting  its  owner  or 
those  under  his  charge.  A  long  sword  swung  in  un- 
military  fashion  at  his  side  as  a  recourse  when  the 
gun  failed  him,  while  a  curved  dagger  hidden  in  the 
ample  folds  of  his  dress  was  still  a  third  weapon  to 
carry  out  the  will  of  Allah  and  the  behests  of  his 
lord. 


TANGIER  TO  A Z AMOR.  35 

Ifc  was  much  to  liave  such  au  one  as  Kaid  biu 
Mahetli  to  give  an  air  of  distinction  and  pomp  to  our 
party,  but  it  was  of  more  practical  importance  to  bo 
tho  possessors  of  El  Hadj  Hamad,  who  followed  be- 
hind him  on  a  mule  heaped  with  all  the  ivvpeiUmcnta 
we  required  on  the  way.  lie  was  at  once  interpreter, 
valet,  cook,  groom,  and  muleteer,  who  spoke  a  fair 
amount  of  French,  English,  and  Spanish,  and  placed 
all  his  varied  acquirements  at  the  disposal  of  such 
Nazarenes  as  ourselves — never  ceasing  to  ask  the  par- 
don of  Allah — for  the  small  sum  of  is.  8d.  a  day. 

Following  Hamad  rode  C.-B.,  feeling  decidedly  out 
of  harmony  with  the  sober  mule  he  bestrode  in  riding- 
boots,  spurs,  and  breeches,  military  helmet,  and  all 
the  warlike  glory  of  revolver  and  hunting-knife.  This 
humble  mount  did  not  quite  agree  with  his  idea  of  the 
romance  of  travel,  and  he  was  apt  in  consequence  to 
forget  that  the  mule  was  in  no  wise  to  blame  for  the 
fact  that  he  could  not  buy  or  hire  a  suitable  horse. 

I  myself  brought  up  the  rear  on  a  delightful  little 
barb,  which  I  had  bought  and  christened  "  Tobv.''  As 
I  ambled  easily  along,  I  could  afford  to  compassionate 
the  unavailing  efforts  of  my  companion  to  get  into 
accord  with  the  unwonted  and  exasperatingly  irre<nilar 
movements  of  his  charger. 

Leaving  Casablanca — the  Dar  el  Baida  of  the  Arabs 
— we  set  our  faces  southwards. 

Passing  through  a  series  of  rich  vegetable-gardens, 
we  found  ourselves  on  a  breezy  and  grassy  expanse 
which  stretched  awav  south  in  undulating  treeless  mono- 


36 


MOROCCO. 


tony.  A  few  herds  and  flocks  grazing  to  right  and  left, 
and  a  varied  succession  of  country-people  on  donkeys 
or  trudging  along  behind  camels,  alone  attracted  our 
attention. 

Gradually  the  plain  rose  into  a  palmetto-clad  and 
boulder-strewn  ridge,  from  the  top  of  which  we  took 
our  last  view  of  Casablanca.     Turning  to  the  south,  we 


saw  little  to  promise  an  interesting  ride.  As  far  as 
the  eye  could  reach,  the  country  spread  itself  out  in 
low  grassy  undulations,  unrelieved  by  rock  or  tree,  by 
hill  or  valley.  The  sole  conspicuous  objects  were  the 
glaring  whitewashed  cupola-covered  tombs  of  saints, 
called  kxhas,  which   everywhere  reminded   the  traveller 


TANGIER  TO  A Z AMOR.  yj 

of"  tlio  ti;()od  Mussulmans  who  had  died,  but  whose 
iulluence  still  lived  for  good  to  those  wlio  resorted  to 
their  shrines  to  pray.  The  view  was  not  lacking  in 
charm,  however,  wherever  we  could  see  the  irregular 
coast-line  and  the  green  headlands  running  into  the 
deep  blue  ocean.  And  if  the  surroundings  were  not 
specially  attractive,  we  could  at  least  hear  the  impressive 
roar  of  the  breaking  rollers  and  inhale  the  fresh  sea- 
breeze. 

Full  of  joyous  spirits  and  the  exhilarating  sense  of 
freedom  from  conventional  trammels,  we  dubbed  the 
"  Pilgrim  "  {El  Hadj)  our  Talcb  (teacher),  and  demanded 
of  him  instruction  in  the  pious  conventional  phrases  in 
which  the  heart  of  the  Moor  rejoices,  as  well  as  a  few 
of  the  more  choice  expletives  without  which  the  life  of 
the  good  Moslim  would  be  stale,  flat,  and  unprofitable. 
With  a  sufticient  iluency  in  blessing  and  cursing  one 
may  go  anywhere  in  Morocco  without  further  need  of 
the  Arabic  language.  To  fix  at  least  the  blessings  in 
our  mind,  we  practised  upon  such  of  the  wayfarers  as 
seemed  peaceful  and  humble-minded,  and  tried  not  to 
look  discouraged  when,  saluting  them  with  "  Peace  be 
unto  you,"  we  were  answered  by  "  Peace  bo  unto  the 
true  believers,"  which  plainly  indicated  that  there  could 
be  no  peace  for  such  rebels  against  God  as  we  were. 
More  than  once  wo  were  savagely  consigned  to  sul- 
phurous flames  and  eternal  punishment,  to  the  barely 
suppressed  delight  of  our  attendant,  who  doubtless 
added  an  "  Amen  "  in  his  sleeve. 

Any   temporary  lowering  of    our    spirits  was  soon 


38  MOROCCO. 

forgotten,  however,  on  turning  our  attention  to  the 
floral  displays  which  everywhere  presented  themselves. 
The  whole  country  seemed  a  glorious  natural  flower- 
garden.  Nowhere  in  field  or  conservatory  have  I  seen 
anything  so  rich  and  profuse,  and  withal  so  extensive, 
as  the  exhibition  of  wild  flowers  presented  by  these 
fertile  undulating  plains  of  Shawia.  Poppy,  marguerite, 
and  marigold,  and  fifty  other  familiar  and  unfamiliar 
flowers,  vied  in  glory  of  bloom,  producing  exquisite 
kaleidoscopic  combinations  of  rich  colours  on  the  green 
swai'd.  Acres  of  the  bright  yellow  marigold  contrasted 
with  acres  of  the  crimson-flushed  poppy.  More  com- 
monly they  were  intermingled  and  sprinkled  with  the 
added  hues  of  w^hite  and  pink  and  blue,  revealing  in 
their  gorgeous  and  striking  combinations  the  source 
from  which  the  Moorish  artist  in  wool  derives  the  ideas 
expressed  in  his  wonderful  zcruhias  or  carpets. 

Through  miles  of  this  exquisite  flower-land  we  jogged 
along,  finding  continually  a  new  species  or  fresh  touch 
of  colour  to  notice  on  some  tract  apparently  more 
richly  covered  than  anything  we  had  yet  seen.  The 
Arab  tents,  which  we  observed  rising  here  and  there 
from  the  fields,  looked  Arcadian  and  ideal  in  the  ex- 
treme, with  their  frisking  goats,  playing  children,  and 
barking  dogs. 

Farther  off,  shepherds  tended  their  flocks,  not  un- 
commonly beguiling  the  time  with  such  simple  harmony 
as  they  could  draw  from  reed-made  pipes.  We  thought 
then  what  a  happy,  free,  and  careless  life  these  Arab 
wanderers  led.     Afterwards  we  knew  that  other  things 


TANGIER  TO  AZAMOR.  39 

skipped  and  played  about  their  tents  besides  goats  and 
children,  and  that  a  more  oppressed  and  miserable  race 
does  not  exist. 

At  mid-day  we  halted  for  a  short  rest  and  lunch. 
There  was  no  need  to  spread  our  carpets,  for  a  more 
beautiful  one  was  already  laid.  On  this  we  threw 
ourselves,  to  be  almost  hidden  among  nodding  mar- 
guerites and  mariofolds,  while  the  air  was  charged  with 
the  fragrance  we  crushed  out  of  the  Howers  we  lay 
upon. 

We  thoroughly  enjoyed  our  roast-chicken  and  hard- 
boiled  eggs  after  our  six  hours'  ride,  and  did  not  forget 
the  thoughtful  Arturo  as  we  washed  them  down  with 
good  Valdepenas.  We  thought  ourselves  the  most 
favoured  of  mortals  when  we  sniffed  and  sipped  the 
steaming  cup  of  coffee  which  the  "  Pilgrim "  after- 
wards placed  in  our  hands,  and  with  a  IL(md(dilI(i]t 
(Praise  be  to  Allah)  we  laid  ourselves  back  on  our 
flowery  carpet  in  a  delicious  dolcc  far  nicntc  mood. 

A  little  later  we  resumed  our  march,  and  ambled 
cheerily  and  rapidly  along  the  footpath  which  curved 
and  winded  through  a  more  bush-clad  country,  where 
the  friendly  rivalry  of  arbutus,  myrtle,  and  tlowers  only 
served  to  heighten  each  other's  beauties. 

Towards  tour  in  the  afternoon  we  left  Ix-hiiul  the 
almost  uninhabited  grazing-grounds  and  bush  tracts, 
and  entered  a  well-cultivated  district,  rich  with  fine 
crops  of  fast-ripening  barley,  which  waved  with  silky 
lustre  under  the  passing  breeze.  Whitewashed  houses, 
not  unlike  Irish   cabins,  thouii^h   more  clean  and  com- 


40  MOROCCO. 

fbrtable-lookiug,  stood  here  and  there  among  the  fer- 
tile fields.  On  our  left  rose  the  extensive  ruins  of  the 
Kasbah  or  castle  of  a  former  Kaid  or  governor  of  the 
province,  who,  being  suspected  of  having  laid  up  trea- 
sure on  this  earth,  was  cast  into  prison  till  his  wealth 
found  a  resting-place  in  the  coffers  of  the  Sultan  and 
his  ministers,  while  his  dwelling  was  laid  waste  in 
search  of  hidden  wealth. 

The  full  significance  of  this  story  we  did  not  then 
divine,  but  as  time  went  on  we  found  that  almost 
every  square  mile  of  Morocco  told  the  same  tale  with 
a  terrible  persistence  and  an  appalling  resemblance 
in  all  the  main  details ;  and  we  came  to  know  that 
the  life  of  the  Moorish  governor  is  no  more  desirable 
than  is  that  of  the  humblest  and  most  down-trodden 
of  those  whom  he  for  a  brief  period  tyrannises  over. 

Towards  sunset  our  soldier  left  the  main  track, 
and  guided  us  to  a  plain  quadrangular  group  of 
buildings,  which  he  informed  us  was  the  fundak  or 
Government  caravanserai  for  the  protection  of  tra- 
vellers. The  very  thought  of  spending  a  night  in 
anything  like  an  Eastern  caravanserai  was  sufficient 
to  fire  our  imaginations,  and  we  made  our  animals 
move  along  more  cheerfully  with  extra  touches  of  the 
spur.  A  look  inside  was  quite  sufficient  to  dissipate 
all  these  pleasing  illusions.  An  ordinary  farm  dung- 
hill would  have  been  simply  heavenly  beside  the  cess- 
pool we  were  asked  to  pitch  our  tent  in.  We  showed 
that  we  were  apt  pupils  as  we  turned  indignantly 
upon   our    soldier-guide.      "  Allah  !  "  we  cried.    "  Are 


TANGIER  TO  AZAMOR.  4' 

we  sons  of  doj^s — arc  we  of  the  vile  race  of  pigs,  that 
you  ask  us  to  camp  here  ?  No  !  By  the  beards  of 
our  ancestors,  we  will  do  no  such  thing !  "  As  we 
ni arched  out  again  the  soldier  stormed  and  pleaded 
that  we  should  remain  inside  the //r?u/rt/.-,  otherwise  (he 
protested)  we  should  be  murdered ;  we  should  have 
everything  stolen  by  thieves,  and  he,  one  of  God's 
chosen,  would  end  his  life  miserably  in  prison,  and  all 
on  account  of  a  couple  of  infidels  !     Allah  forbid  ! 

For  answer  wo  laughed  derisively  at  the  picture 
he  drew ;  and  in  his  own  manner  vowed  that  we 
w^ould  see  the  bones  of  his  great-great-grandmother 
consigned  to  Gehenna  before  we  would  consent  to 
remain  in  such  a  beastly  place. 

Finding  all  his  alarms  and  entreaties  in  vain,  he  at 
last  consented  to  pass  on  a  little  farther,  and  camp 
near  a  du/ir  or  tent-village.  Here  at  sunset  we 
pitched  our  little  tent  and  spread  our  waterproof 
sheets,  and  ere  the  twilight  gave  place  to  darkness 
and  the  twinkling  stars,  we  were  demolishing  with 
immense  gusto  the  remainder  of  the  cold  meats  pro- 
vided by  our  friend  Arturo  Pitto,  too  hungry  to  wait 
on  such  good  things  as  El  Hadj  Hamad  hastened  to 
prepare.  After  the  oranges,  however,  the  cofJee  once 
more  came  with  welcome  incense  ;  and  feeling  ex- 
pansive and  unselfish  under  its  grateful  influence,  wc 
commiserated  our  poor  friends  at  home,  who  had  to 
so  throuirh  the  same  terrible  round  of  irksome  and 
uninteresting  duties,  knowing  nothing  of  the  pleasures 
of  camp-life  in  i\lorocco. 


43  MOROCCO. 

For  a  little  time  we  sat  and  talked.  Then  I  begau 
to  observe  that,  in  spite  of  the  stoicism  of  my  friend, 
he  betrayed  signs  of  weariness.  Of  course  he  thought 
it  unworthy  of  a  traveller  to  admit  the  impeachment, 
but,  as  we  wrapped  ourselves  in  our  ulsters  and  stretched 
ourselves  out — a  change  of  clothes  for  pillows — I  heard 
a  soft  sigh  of  intense  relief,  which  spoke  volumes. 

Although  we  thought  we  had  a  right  to  expect  a 
good  night's  sleep  after  our  fifty  miles'  ride,  we  were 
doomed  to  disappointment.  At  first  Morpheus  co- 
quetted with  us  and  spread  the  allurements  of  semi- 
unconsciousness  over  our  senses ;  but  just  as  we 
seemed  to  be  on  the  point  of  sinking  into  sweet  and 
blissful  slumber,  we  were  time  after  time  ruthlessly 
hauled  back  into  hated  wakefulness.  Scores  of  dogs 
from  our  own  and  the  neighbouring  duars,  attracted 
by  the  presence  of  strangers  and  the  unwonted  rich 
scents  which  emanated  from  our  Pilgrim's  stewpan, 
gathered  in  hostile  and  hungry  eagerness  around  our 
tents.  Having  conflicting  interests  and  deeply-rooted 
hates,  they  ever  and  anon  set  upon  each  other  with 
savage  yells  and  howls,  making  night  truly  hideous. 
Their  wild  hyena-like  clamour  rose  and  fell,  came  and 
went,  in  the  most  exasperating  manner.  Now  and 
then  amid  the  fearful  din  the  strident  voice  of  El 
Hadj  could  be  heard  hurling  fearful  expletives  at 
them,  accompanied  by  stones,  and,  if  I  mistake  not,  the 
stewpan,  when,  attracted  by  the  appetising  odours,  they 
had  ventured  too  near  his  belongings. 

The  dogs,  however,  were  not  the  only  element  of  riot 


TANGIER  TO  A Z AMOR.  43 

and  disorder.  Our  horses,  picketed  close  to  the  tent, 
after  a  little  rest,  developed  decidedly  combative  feelings, 
and  manifested  an  irritating  desire  to  get  within  fight- 
ing distance.  Neither  ropes  nor  hobbles  were  sufficient 
to  restrain  their  impulses,  and  more  than  once  they 
broke  loose  and  rushed  at  each  other  with  fierce  screams, 
kicking  and  biting  furiously,  to  the  imminent  danger  of 
our  tents  and  of  ourselves  inside.  Then  was  heard  the 
full  vituperative  power  of  the  Arabic  language  as  our 
men  rushed  to  separate  the  infuriated  brutes ;  then 
disappeared  the  cold  chicken  from  the  kitchen,  borne 
oH"  in  the  ravenous  jaws  of  a  wretched  dog ;  and  then 
I  discovered  that  even  IMoorish  travelling  has  its 
drawbacks,  and  that  life  at  home  has  at  least  some 
advantajres. 


(     44     ) 


CHAPTEIl  V. 

AZAMOR  TO  MOGADOR. 

Towards  daybreak  the  dogs  quietened  down,  the  horses 
renounced  their  fighting  attitude,  and  the  guards  fell 
sound  asleep,  unable  to  keep  awake  even  while  pro- 
claiming the  greatness  of  Allah,  the  worthiness  of  his 
Prophet,  and  the  virtues  of  all  the  saints  in  the  Moorish 
calendar.  As  I  myself  began  to  feel  my  senses  dulled, 
the  cracked  voice  of  some  one  in  the  chia?'  quavered 
out  that  "'  Prayer  was  better  than  sleep,"  a  statement 
which  on  this  occasion  I  felt  inclined  to  question, 
though  I  reluctantly  pulled  myself  together  and  set 
about  the  task  of  waking  C.-B. 

Ere  the  sun  rose  we  were  in  the  saddle.  I  myself 
felt  somewhat  stiff,  while  my  companion  was  grievously 
aware  that  fifty  miles  cannot  be  accomplished  on  a 
fractious  mule  without  painful  results.  The  conse- 
quence was  that  I  missed  the  erect  carriage  and  easy 
seat  which  I  had  previously  admired  in  him. 

The  country  over  which  we  passed  still  presented 
the  same  monotonous  physical  features,  only  that 
cultivated  fields  now  took  the  place  of  the  bush- land 
and   flowery  graziug-grounds.      Everywhere  also  stone 


AZAMOR  TO  MOGADOh'. 


45 


cabins  or  wretchedly-niade  thatched  huts  replaced  the 
goat's  or  caniors-hair  tents  of  tlie  more  pastoral  and 
migratory  Arabs. 

What  chieliy  attracted  our  attention,  however,  were 
the  picturesque  scenes  presented  by  the  numerous 
wells,  which  here  dot  the  landscape  and  supply  the 
inhabitants  with  brackish  water,  there  being  no  running 
streams  or  springs. 


WATEll    WIIKKL. 


These  wells  in  the  porous  consolidated  shell-sand 
are  frequently  of  great  depth,  and  the  water  has  to  be 
drawn  by  means  of  camels.  These  work  a  horizontal 
wheel,  which  again  revolves  a  vertical  one  overhanging 
the  well.  From  this  a  double  rope  of  the  necessary 
length,  and  having  earthenware  pots  attached  at 
intervals,    descends    into    the    water.       As    the    wheel 


46  MOROCCO. 

revolves  tlie  pots  are  drawn  up  full  and  their  con- 
tents tipped  into  a  trough  placed  ready  for  the 
purpose,  exactly  as  the  mud  hauled  up  by  a  dredger 
from  the  sea-bottom  is  tipped  from  the  buckets  into 
the  required  receptacle.  Few  more  interesting  sights 
can  be  seen  in  Morocco  than  these  clumsily  made 
wheels,  the  patient  camel  walking  round  and  round, 
the  groups  of  men  and  women  filling  their  water-pots, 
and  the  donkeys  or  cattle  waiting  to  be  watered,  while 
perhaps  a  little  way  off  a  flock  of  goats  or  sheep  are 
approaching  for  the  same  purpose. 

As  we  continued  our  way  south  in  the  fresh  crisp 
morning  air,  we  remarked  that  houses  and  villages 
became  more  and  more  common,  with  a  corresponding 
addition  to  the  traffic  on  the  road.  Finally,  after  a 
ride  of  nearly  four  hours,  we  descried  the  dazzling 
white  mass  of  Azamor. 

Another  half-hour  and  we  tumbled  our  horses  and 
mules  into  a  large  ferryboat  and  crossed  the  Wad 
Um  er  Rebia,  on  the  overhanging  ridge  of  which 
Azamor  is  picturesquely  situated,  looking  undoubtedly 
the  most  striking  town  on  the  coast,  though  having  no 
buildings  worth  individual  attention. 

We  halted  in  the  market-place  to  have  a  mule 
shod,  regaling  ourselves  the  while  on  walnuts  and 
Moorish  coffee.  Finding  nothing  more  interesting 
than  the  old  Portuguese  fortifications  to  detain  us, 
we  resumed  our  march  at  mid-day.  Two  and  a  half 
hours  later  we  entered  the  interesting  little  town  of 
^lazagan,  which   in  its  snowy  whiteness  we  had  seen 


AZAMOR  TO  MOGADOR. 


47 


:ill  the  waj'  from  Azainor  in   the  must  irritating  appa- 
rent proximity. 

We  rode  at  once  to  our  Yicc-Consnl,  for  whom  T  was 
charged  with  a  letter  of  introduction  from  Sir  Kirby 
Green.  He  showed  at  once  a  gratifying  alacrity  in 
giving  us  information  about  the  only  inn  in  the  place, 
and  even  had  the  goodness  to  send  a  servant  to  show 
us  tlie  wav. 


MMiKKT  ri.ACK,    AZAMOH. 

In  the  evening  we  strolled  through  the  town,  and 
admii'ed  the  substantial  nature  of  the  work  left  behind 
by  the  Portuguese  in  the  old  days  when  they  were 
masters  of  the  entire  western  littoral  of  ]\forocco. 

Among  other  examples  of  their  enterprise  wliicli 
remain  is  a  good  boat-harbour,  the  only  one  on  the 
coast;  but  indeed  INlazagan,  of  all  the  towns,  possesses 


48  MOROCCO. 

the  most  striking  remains  of  ]*ortuguesG  workman- 
ship. 

Being  well  provided  with  letters  of  introduction  to 
the  various  merchants,  we  thought  we  could  not  do 
better  than  see  what  they  were  like  and  what  they 
thought  about  things  Moorish.  Calling  upon  the 
principal  one,  we  found  him  out,  but  shortly  after, 
meeting  him  in  the  street,  we  introduced  ourselves. 
He  made  us  feel  at  once  that  he  guessed  we  had  an 
idea  of  writing  a  book,  and  had  in  consequence  become 
fit  objects  for  his  veiled  sarcasm.  Our  hopes  of  get- 
ting a  cup  of  tea  vanished  as  he  commenced  a  disser- 
tation on  the  silliness  of  all  English  books  on  Morocco, 
and  on  the  shallow  knowledge  and  plentiful  lack  of 
wit  of  their  authors  ;  while  by  inference  he  gave  us 
to  understand  what  a  good  book  he  could  write  if  he 
would  only  take  the  trouble.  One  late  traveller  he 
held  up  to  scorn  for  having  called  a  bird  2\(hih  in- 
stead of  Tabibt.  He  smiled  with  a  mixture  of  amuse- 
ment and  profound  commiseration  when  we  timidly 
hinted  our  hope  of  getting  into  the  Atlas  Mountains. 
"  He  had  never  got  there,"  he  crushingly  told  us.  To 
show,  however,  that  he  was  actuated  by  the  most 
friendly  spirit  in  putting  us  on  the  right  track,  and 
that  the  duties  of  hospitality  rose  above  all  other  con- 
siderations, he  was  so  good  as  to  ask  us  to  call  upon 
him  on  our  return  from  the  interior. 

We  did  not  present  any  more  of  our  letters  of  in- 
troduction. 

A   good   night's    sleep   brought  back  our  naturally 


AZAMOR  TO  MOGADOK.  49 

sanguine  spirits  to  the  normal  level  after  the  crusliing 
of  the  previous  evening,  and  we  rode  gaily  out  of 
Mazagun  with  the  risinf;  sun. 

The  disadvantages  of  being  under  the  special  sha- 
dow of  the  Sharitian  Umbrella  were  brought  forcibly- 
home  to  us  during  the  day's  ride.  We  found  we 
were  not  free  agents  to  go  where  we  pleased  or  camp 
wheresoever  it  seemed  good  to  us.  We  had  to  be 
passed  on  from  governor  to  governor  like  a  piece  of 
goods  specially  invoiced,  and  concerning  which  acknow- 
ledgments of  safe  delivery  were  required.  We  should 
doubtless  have  energetically  rebelled  against  these  re- 
strictions upon  our  movements,  but  that  at  the  moment 
it  did  not  much  matter  what  direction  we  took,  so  that 
we  reached  Mogador  with  reasonable  speed. 

The  first  soldier  only  took  us  two  hours'  journey  to 
the  Kasbah  of  Nortliern  Dukalla,  where  the  responsi- 
bility of  the  governor  of  Mazagan  ceased.  The  Kaid 
was  most  energetic  in  his  attempts  to  get  us  to  stop 
to  breakfast,  but  we  would  not  listen  to  his  hospitable 
entreaties,  and  insisted  upon  going  forward  without 
delay. 

We  still  passed  over  the  same  treeless,  monotonous 
undulations,  cultivated  fields  alternating  with  palmetto 
scrub,  or  acres  aglow  with  poppies  and  variegated  with 
dark-green  patches  of  arbutus  and  myrtle.  There  was 
hardly  a  village  to  give  an  inhabited  air  to  the  landscape. 
One  might  have  imagined  that  the  natives  were  all  dead 
and  had  all  been  saints,  so  numerous  and  consj)icuuus 
were    the    white    l-nhas   on    every    ridge    and    hill-tup. 

D 


50  MOROCCO 

Here  and  tliere,  however,  the  rich  dark  loam  was 
being  turned  over  by  primitive  wooden  phoughs  drawn 
by  an  ox  and  an  ass  or  by  mangy  horses,  and  guided  by 
bare-legged  and  shirt-clad  labourers,  while  boys  tend- 
ing scattered  flocks  of  goats  or  sheep  stood  and  gazed 
upon  us,  practising  at  a  safe  distance  the  curses  tlieir 
careful  parents  had  taught  them. 

But  while  our  eyes  roamed  over  the  wide  landscape 
in  search  of  the  new  and  the  interesting,  we  were  not 
oblivious  to  other  and  deeper  things.  Fired  with  a 
scientific  ardour,  and  feeling  it  incumbent  on  me  to 
improve  the  mind  of  my  companion,  whose  studies  had 
not  been  geological,  I  now  and  then  drew  his  attention 
to  the  minor  significance  of  certain  surface  features.  I 
pointed  out  how  these  features  were  clearly  not  such  as 
would  result  from  subaerial  denudation — that  is,  the 
action  of  rain  and  running  water.  Those  hummocky 
ridsres  and  irreo'ular  hollows  could  onlv  have  been 
formed  in  the  bed  of  the  sea,  and  consequently  we 
were  then  travelling  on  an  upraised  sea-bottom — a 
late  Tertiary  sea-bottom,  I  was  careful  to  point  out, 
which  had  been  able  to  retain  its  original  features 
because  the  porous  character  of  its  shell-sands  had 
permitted  the  rapid  absorption  of  the  rainfall,  so  that 
streams  had  not  formed  to  denude  and  alter  the 
aspect  of  the  land.  To  all  my  geological  disquisition, 
however,  C.-B.  gave  but  sparing  attention,  for  his 
mind  was  more  taken  up  with  questions  about  routes 
and  supplies,  and  other  things  relating  to  military 
operations. 


A Z AMOR  TO  MOGADOR.  51 

It  was  sunset  when  we  reached  our  camping-place 
for  the  night  under  the  walls  of  the  Kasbah  of  Bin 
Busheib,  (rovernor  of  Southern  J)ukkala.  We  had 
just  time  to  get  our  tent  pitched  after  our  forty-five 
miles'  ride  when  darkness  fell  and  rain  began  to  pour 
down  upon  us.  We  had  not  to  wait  long  before  the 
Kaid  sent  us  our  mo/ia,  or  supplies  given  to  strangers 
travelling  with  a  letter  from  the  Sultan — although  in  a 
wider  sense  mona  means  provisions  given  and  not  sold. 

Our  next  day's  march  was  made  in  much  discom- 
fort. Storms  of  rain  and  thunder  broke  overhead 
time  after  time,  drenching  us  to  the  skin,  and  render- 
ing the  black  mud  of  the  footpath  either  excessively 
slippery  or  painfully  the  reverse. 

Our  attention  was  on  this  day  first  drawn  to  the 
manner  in  which  the  country  Arabs  store  not  only 
their  food,  but  their  water  supplies.  Pits  having  the 
shape  of  champagne  bottles  are  dug  in  the  easily- 
worked  shell-sand,  and  then  cemented  inside  to  keep 
out  the  damp  when  filled  with  grain,  or  to  keep  in  the 
water  when  filled  with  water,  the  former  being  called 
■mclcojtorcs  and  the  latter  mifjircs. 

A  curious  surface  feature  materially  aids  in  the  con- 
struction and  adds  to  the  stability  of  these  granaries 
and  reservoirs.  Enormous  areas  are  covered  with  a 
slag-like  crust  of  adamantine  hardness,  which  does  not 
permit  the  permeation  of  the  rain,  while  forming  a 
splendid  roofing  material.  The  rain  thus  compelled 
to  run  off  the  surface  naturally  falls  into  such  ruts 
as  the  footpaths  nsually  are,  and  is  thence  led  into  the 


52  MOROCCO. 

mitjin'^,  with  all  the  dirt  and  refuse  it  carries  in  the 
current.  The  condition  of  the  water  thus  stored  after 
a  couple  of  months  may  be  imagined,  though  over 
large  areas  no  other  is  obtainable  during  the  summer. 
This  hard  slaggy  crust  is  formed  by  the  evaporation 
of  the  surface-water  containing  lime  in  solution,  which 
is  thus  precipitated  and  forms  a  cementing  substance 
to  the  sand,  and  in  time  a  thin  scaly  deposit  such  as 
is  seen  near  calcareous  springs. 

Besides  being  convenient  granaries,  these  mdamores 
serve  the  purpose  of  hiding  the  food  supplies  of  the 
poor  country-people — a  matter  of  great  importance  in 
a  country  where  the  Sultan  every  now  and  then  passes 
with  Lis  army  like  an  invasion  of  locusts,  and  literally 
and  figuratively  "  eats  up  the  land." 

In  parts  the  whole  country  is  honeycombed  with 
these  pits,  which  become  in  the  deserted  districts 
sources  of  no  small  danger  to  the  unwary  traveller, 
especially  when  half-hidden  by  scrub  and  bush,  as  they 
usually  are. 

While  much  of  the  soil  of  Southern  Dukkala  is 
practically  sealed  up  by  the  stony  crust  above  referred 
to,  there  are  also  wide  plains  of  the  richest  arable 
loam  covered  with  magnificent  crops  of  barley,  wheat, 
and  beans  ;  the  extent  of  the  fields,  the  plentifulness 
of  the  yield,  and  the  striking  scantiness  of  the  popula- 
tion being  matters  of  constant  remark  and  wonderment 
to  us. 

Towards  sunset  we  reached  the  Ivasbah  ot  Aissa, 
Kaid  of  Northern  Abda.     This  appeared  from  the  out- 


AZ.nrOR   TO  MOGADOR.  53 

side  like  a  hii^'e  qua(lranL''lo  with  plain  wliitewashed 
walls,  such  as  people  surround  their  gardens  with  in 
England. 

It  here  occurred  to  us  that  we  might  do  worse  than 
see  what  was  the  effect  of  the  Sultan's  letter,  and  what 
the  character  of  Moorish  hospitality  when  exercised 
by  a  powerful  governor.  Passing  inside  the  quadrangle, 
we  found  that  it  was  simply  an  enclosure  in  the  centre 
of  which  stood  the  Kasbah  buildings,  so  arranged  as 
to  form  an  inner  court. 

We  dispatched  the  Sultan's  letter  to  the  Kaid,  and 
after  a  time  a  message  arrived  overflowing  with  the 
"  Marliabcibilmms  "  (welcomes)  of  his  lord  Kaid  Aissa. 
Numbers  of  portly  Moors  and  wild-looking  soldiers 
were  massed  to  receive  and  see  us  at  the  gate  of  the 
inner  buildings.  Under  these  circumstances  I  felt  it 
incumbent  on  me  to  ride  in  with  becoming  dignity. 
I  therefore  proceeded  to  remount  the  mule  I  had  been 
riding  for  the  last  two  liours  to  ease  the  bones  of 
"  Toby."  In  swinging  myself  into  the  saddle  with 
becoming  grace  and  ease — though  I  was  a  trifle  stiff — 
I  somehow  unwittingly  drove  one  of  my  spurs  into 
the  brute's  side.  To  my  horror  and  disgust,  before  I 
could  gather  up  the  reins,  the  hitherto  spiritless  crea- 
ture bolted  with  me  and  skipped  and  bucked  with  all 
the  liveliness  of  a  kid.  Not  having  got  my  ofl:'  foot 
into  the  stirrup,  it  was  necessary  for  me  to  embrace 
the  mule  with  my  legs,  if  I  did  not  want  to  kiss 
the  dust.  In  consequence  each  new  caracole  sent 
the  spurs   deeper  into  its  sides   and   stimulated   it  to 


54  MOROCCO. 

more  fiery  evolutions.  The  Moors,  meanwhile,  though 
scattered  by  the  onslaught,  were  delighted  beyond 
description  to  see  a  Nazarene  thus  tossed  and  shaken 
by  a  mule.  The  only  thing  wanted  to  complete  their 
happiness  would  have  been  to  see  me  get  my  neck 
broken.  Happily  I  retained  my  seat,  and  at  last  got 
command  of  my  legs,  the  reins,  and  the  mule.  Flushed 
and  annoyed  with  the  undignified  struggle,  I  then 
assumed  as  haughty  an  air  as  circumstances  would 
permit,  and  rode  through  the  now  courteous  throng  of 
retainers,  C.-B.,  still  chuckling  with  amusement,  follow- 
ing behind. 

The  inner  court  presented  an  animated  spectacle, 
which  at  another  moment  I  would  have  viewed  appre- 
ciatively. Some  fifty  or  sixty  magnificent  barbs  stood 
there  hobbled,  the  stir  of  our  arrival  causing  them  to 
quiver  with  eager  fiery  life,  and  show  themselves  to 
the  best  advantage,  as,  with  expanded  nostrils,  erect 
ears,  and  curved  neck,  they  plunged  about,  trying  to 
free  themselves  from  their  bonds.  A  line  of  mules  of 
the  best  breed  fed  a  little  way  off,  while  numbers  of 
donkeys  strolled  about  picking  up  any  kinds  of  odds 
and  ends,  and  ready  to  add  a  lusty  bray  of  welcome 
whenever  any  of  their  kind  appeared  on  the  scene. 
What  with  the  commotion  among  the  horses,  the  bray- 
ing of  the  donkeys,  and  the  barking  of  dogs,  the 
hurry-skurry  of  slaves  and  soldiers,  the  frightened 
flight  of  poultry,  and  the  stampede  of  some  cattle,  our 
entrance  to  the  inner  court  of  the  Kasbah  of  Kaid 
Aissa  was  a  noteworthv  one. 


AZAMOR  TO  MOGADOR.  55 

With  all  dui'  cereinuny  ;i  cli;unlx'rl;iiu  ciuiiliictecl  us 
to  a  well-carpeted  guest-chamber,  hastily  prepared  tor 
our  reception,  and  wliere  we  found  green  tea  ready  for 
our  refreshment  after  our  arduous  ride. 

After  a  wash  and  brush-up,  we  eyed  El  Hadj  some- 
what wistfully,  dying  to  demand  something  from  him, 
even  though  it  should  be  but  a  tin  of  sardines,  to  take 
the  edge  off  our  ravenous  appetites.  We  heroically 
forbore,  however,  determined,  since  we  were  under  a 
Moorish  roof,  to  do  everything  in  harmony  witli  our 
surroundings.  Pending,  therefore,  the  arrival  of  our 
mona  we  practised  sitting  cross-legged  on  the  carpet. 

After  a  time  two  huge  candles,  two  loaves  of  sugar, 
and  half  a  pound  of  green  tea  were  brought,  along  with 
four  loaves  of  bread,  and  about  a  dozen  pounds  of  buttei". 
This  was  rather  disappointing,  but,  encouraged  by  the 
knowing  Hadj,  we  restrained  ourselves.  At  length  a 
knock  came  to  the  door.  "  In  the  name  of  Allah,  enter,'" 
cried  Hadj.  Wo  sat  expectant.  The  door  creaked 
and  groaned  on  its  hinges,  pushed  wide  beyond  its 
usual  limits.  As  we  grasped  the  l"ull  signiticance  of 
this  fact  our  mouths  became  moist,  and  but  that  we 
were  not  demonstrative,  we  should  liave  clasped  each 
other's  hands  in  the  emotion  of  the  moment.  A  few 
more  seconds,  and  in  tlio  dimly-lighted  room  we  descried 
something  resembling  a  large  beehive  carried  on  the 
upturned  lid  of  a  big  barrel,  and  borne  by  one  of  the 
Kaid's  retainers.  Behind  came  a  second  and  a  third. 
A  dimly-lighted  room,  two  hungry  Europeans  seated 
tailor-fashion  on  a  carpet,  three  beehives  before  them, 


56  MOROCCO. 

three  dark-complexioned  jflah-c\ad  servants  standing 
over  the  beehives,  and  in  the  background  the  lithe 
form  and  eager  grinning  face  of  Hadj,  formed  the 
chief  elements  of  the  picture.  The  retainers  volubly 
declared  for  the  hundredth  time  that  we  were  welcome, 
that  we  had  but  to  speak  and  whatever  we  desired 
should  be  ours.  Again  we  thanked  them  for  the  wel- 
come, and  hoped  that  Allah  would  long  protect  the 
life  of  their  lord,  &c.,  &c.  Compliments  thus  inter- 
changed and  Moorish  ideas  of  courtesy  satisfied,  the 
three  beehives  were  suddenly  lifted  from  their  lid-like 
tables,  and  an  appetising  cloud  of  steam  assailed  our 
nostrils,  risings  from  three  hufje  jjlazed  earthenware 
basins.  With  difiiculty  we  preserved  our  equanimity 
and  dimitv  while  some  silver  chancred  owners.  At  last 
we  were  left  alone.  Then  did  we  bend  eagerly  over  the 
huge  piles  of  food,  our  heads  in  close  contact  with  that 
of  Hadj,  who,  as  hungry  and  eager  as  ourselves,  forgot 
his  proper  distance  as  he  pointed  out  that  this  was 
"  AlisJiUssn  "  and  that  "  Tajoi  " — the  former  being 
granulated  wheat  strained  over  a  dish  of  fowls  or 
meat ;  while  of  the  other  two  one  was  mutton  stewed 
in  butter  with  potatoes,  onions,  and  raisins,  and  the 
other  beef  similarly  cooked,  and  served  with  carrots  and 
raisins. 

On  seeing  this  abundant  spread  -in  the  wilderness 
we  apostrophised  the  stars,  and  forgetting  our  inten- 
tions of  doing  the  thing  properly,  called  for  spoons, 
knives,  and  forks.  "  First-class ! "  was  our  deci- 
sion after  the   first   essav  :    but   cfi'aduallv   we   became 


AZAMOR  TO  MOGADOR.  57 

aware  of  the  flavour  of  rancid  butter  ;  tlie  alteration  in 
our  expression  being  noted  with  delight  hy  Hadj,  who 
had  seen  our  early  eagerness  with  dismay. 

Soon  after  we  wrapped  ourselves  in  our  rugs  and 
stretched  ourselves  out  to  sleep.  I  had  nearly  suc- 
ceeded, when  I  became  restless  under  the  influence  of 
some  unwonted  irritant.  Half-asleep  and  half-awake, 
I  fidofetted  about  till  something  more  marked  than 
before  made  me  sit  up. 

"  What's  wrong  ? "  demanded  C.-B..  as  wakeful  as 
myself. 

"  Pulcx  irrifans"  I  groaned. 

"  What  ?  " 

"  Well,  then, /has.  Confound  them  !"  I  added  irri- 
tably, as  I  turned  over  to  try  to  sleep  once  more. 
Little  use,  however.  There  were  other  things  to  make 
the  night  hateful  and  hideous.  My  horse  broke  loose, 
and  had  a  lively  time  of  it  fighting  all  round  till  we 
caught  him.  Donkeys  brayed  incessantly  with  astound- 
ing lung-power.  Pigs  squealed  and  rioted  round  and 
round  the  court.  The  Kasbah  guards  wiled  away  the 
long  hours  by  stoning  to  death  a  wretched  pariah  dog, 
which  they  held  b}'  a  string,  its  heart-rending  yells 
horrible  to  hear. 

AVith  lively  imagination  they  derived  additional 
delight  from  its  tortures  by  assuming  the  poor  brute 
now  to  be  a  Jew,  now  a  Christian.  Rats,  too,  held 
high  holiday,  and  evidently  enjoyed  themselves  im- 
mensely, scuttling  about  or  gleefully  running  over  us. 
So  much  was  I  taken  up  with  all  these  novel  or  un- 


58  MOROCCO. 

wonted  experiences  and  sensations,  that  I  was  careful 
not  to  lose  one  of  them  by  falling  asleep,  and  long 
before  dawn  I  was  stirring  up  Iladj  and  tugging  at 
my  companion.  Ere  the  sun  was  up  we  had  drunk 
our  morning's  coffee  and  were  eoi  route  for  Saffi. 

The  approach  to  the  ancient  coast-town  of  Safli 
seemed  to  us  quite  picturesque  and  beautiful  after  our 
150  miles'  ride  through  Shawia,  Dukkala,  and  Abda. 
So  far  we  had  not  seen  a  single  tree  worthy  of  the 
name,  nor  had  we  crossed  a  single  stream  or  rivulet, 
with  the  exception  of  the  Azamor  river.  Neither  had 
we  ascended  a  hill,  nor  even  seen  one,  nor  had  we  found 
occasion  to  halt  and  admire  the  slightest  approach  to 
a  picturesque  landscape.  We  had,  in  fact,  seen  nothing 
but  rounded  low  ridges,  or  even  more  monotonous 
flat  expanses,  varied  only  by  waving  corn,  dark-green 
bush  tracts,  or  gorgeous  flower  reaches. 

Now,  however,  we  descended  a  narrow  defile,  along 
which  trickled  a  small  muddy  streamlet  shaded  by 
olive  and  fig.  Farther  down,  the  narrow  defile  opened 
somewhat,  and  enclosed  a  series  of  pleasant  little  gar- 
dens shaded  by  pomegranate  and  orange,  fig  and  olive, 
date  and  banana,  and  beautified  by  an  abundance  of 
geraniums  and  lilies,  and  numerous  other  familiar  and 
unfamiliar  flowers. 

At  length  we  reached  the  seaward  mouth  of  the 
glen,  and  Saffl,  all  white  and  gleaming,  lay  between  us 
and  the  turbulent  sea. 

On  our  right  were  now  the  numerous  I'uhas  of  the 
saints   of  Safll,  and  on  our  left  the  huge  barrack  or 


AZAMOR  TO  MOGADOR.  59 

rather  prison-like  palace  of  the  Sultans  tJoniiiiuted  the 
town.  A  fine  Portuguese  gateway  gave  entrance  through 
the  well-built  crenelated  walls  which  girdle  the  com- 
pact mass  of  houses. 

Nearer  approach,  as  usual,  belied  the  promise  of  the 
distance,  and  we  passed  along  repulsive  lanes,  hemmed 
in  by  mean  buildings,  and  finally  reached  the  residence 
of  Mr.  George  Hunot,  British  Vice-Consul. 

Here  we  got  a  hearty  welcome,  and  were  soon  made 
aware  that  we  had  not  only  discovered  a  generous  host, 
but  an  unrivalled  adviser  on  all  matters  pertaining  to 
Moorish  travel.  I  do  not  know  if  there  is  another 
European  in  jMorocco  who  in  any  way  approaches  Mr. 
Ilunot  in  his  knowledge  of  the  Moor  and  his  language, 
as  well  as  of  many  of  the  southern  provinces  of  the 
Empire. 

As  our  horses  and  mules  were  showing  signs  of 
fatigue,  we  remained  at  Safli  on  the  following  day, 
not  by  any  means  unprofitably,  and  certainly  not  un- 
pleasantly. During  the  day  we  experienced  the  excite- 
ment of  hawking  in  Morocco.  'J'he  lesser  bustard  was 
our  ([uarry,  and  the  following  was  the  method  of  ])ro- 
cedure.  As  soon  as  the  whereabouts  of  a  bustard  is 
discovered,  the  falconer  lets  loose  his  bird  and  runs 
forward,  directing  it  by  his  cries  and  gestures.  At 
tirst  the  hawk  Hies  at  a  low  level  over  the  fields,  as  if 
in  search  of  its  prey,  till,  rising  higher  and  higher,  it 
sweeps  round  in  graceful  circles.  The  bustard,  knowing 
its  danger,  and  that  the  hawk  can  only  strike  during 
flight,  keeps  close,  though   in   deadly  terror.      Now  is 


6o  MOROCCO. 

our  time  to  rush  in.  Spreading  out  in  a  line,  we  give 
our  horses  the  rein  and  gallop  forward  helter-skelter 
over  rocks  and  through  bushes,  ever  in  danger  of  a 
nasty  fall  over  hidden  obstacles  or  from  disused 
mdamorcs.  We  shout  and  halloo  till  the  welkin  rings, 
to  cause  the  bustard  to  rise.  Once  up,  the  excitement 
redoubles.  We  now  scream  and  3'ell  our  loudest, 
chiefly  to  direct  the  hawk.  There  is  a  moment  of 
wild  uncertainty,  till  the  wheeling  of  the  hawk  stops, 
and  down  like  a  stone  it  sinks,  and  with  one  fell  blow 
strikes  its  victim  to  the  ground. 

We  would  willingly  have  stayed  longer  at  Saffi,  but 
we  were  anxious  to  hurry  on  to  our  destination,  where 
our  sfoods  awaited  us,  and  where  our  little  caravan 
had  to  be  organised. 

On  Monday  the  i6th  we  resumed  our  march, 
following  the  sea-shore  as  far  as  the  river  Tensift. 
The  heavy  rains  had  made  the  Tensift  unfordable  near 
its  mouth,  and  there  was  nothing  for  it  but  to  ascend 
some  distance.  With  the  assistance  of  the  natives  of 
the  place  we  were  at  last  landed  safely  on  the  other 
side.  Ere  this  was  accomplished  the  sun  had  set,  and 
we  were  compelled  to  ride  along  in  the  dark  for  a 
couple  of  hours  to  the  Sanctuary  of  Sidi  Aissi,  near 
which  we  pitched  our  tent  in  no  very  good  humour, 
for  we  were  not  only  hungry,  but  annoyed  at  having 
been  brought  a  different  road  from  what  we  wanted. 
It  was  ten  o'clock  before  Hadj  served  up  to  us  a 
savoury  stew,  and  appeased  our  appetites  and  wrath 
at  one  and  the  same  time. 


AZAMOR   TO  MOGADOR.  6l 

In  crossing  tlie  Tensit't  we  bad  outered  a  widely 
different  country  from  tliat  we  had  so  far  traversed. 
We  had  left  behind  us  the  monotonous  upraised  sea- 
bottom  of  Abda  and  Dukalla,  and  were  now  riding 
througli  tlie  more  varied  scenery  characteristic  of  the 
province  of  Shiedma. 

Red  sandstones,  and  shales,  and  compact  white 
limestones  replaced  the  friable  and  crust-bound  shell- 
sands,  and  showed  themselves  in  a  refreshing  variety 
of  surface  features,  making  our  riding  less  easy  but 
infinitely  more  delightful.  The  country  also  was  no 
longer  treeless,  for  everywhere  the  remarkable  oil- 
bearing  argan  tree  enhanced  by  its  gnarled  branches 
and  dark-green  foliage  the  picturesque  irregularities 
of  hill  and  dale  through  which  we  rode.  To  this 
landscape  the  long  irregular  range  of  Jebel  lladid  or 
the  Iron  Mountains,  the  western  foot  of  which  we 
followed,  gave  an  air  of  dignity,  and  even  grandeur. 

About  mid-day  we  entered  the  curious  depression 
known  as  Akermut,  and  three  hours  later  we  were 
ascending  the  low  ridge  which  encloses  it  on  the  south 
and  west,  and  passing  by  an  irregular  pathway  through 
gum  cistus  bush  a;ud  resin-scented  tracts  of  small 
conifers,  known  by  the  natives  as  arar,  and  by  the 
learned  as  Calitris. 

At  the  top,  as  we  halted  for  a  time  to  give  our  animals 
breath  as  well  as  to  enjoy  the  cool  sea-breeze  after 
the  sweltering  heat  of  Akermut,  we  naturally  sought 
eagerly  for  our  goal.  Beneath  us,  on  the  seaward 
front,  and   at   the  base  of  the  ridge  which   formed  our 


63  MOROCCO. 

coign  of  vtiutage,  lay  the  Sanctuary  of  Sidi  Buzarktan, 
and  from  it  a  golden  strip  of  sand  ran  southward  in  a 
winding  line  of  demarcation  between  the  ocean  and 
the  land.  In  the  mid-distance,  half  shrouded  in  a  sea- 
woven  veil  of  grey  mist,  lay  Mogador  on  its  jutting 
spit  of  sand  like  some  white  gigantic  sea-bird  resting 
after  an  ocean-flight,  its  feet  laved  l)y  the  murmuring 
wavelets,  to  which  the  savage  strength  of  the  Atlantic 
rollers  is  subdued  by  the  sheltering  island  outside. 

From  Mogador  our  eyes  roam  eastward  over  the 
sand-dunes  wdiich  mass  themselves  on  the  sloping  face 
of  the  coast-hills  and  pass  swiftly  over  the  featureless 
dark-green  arar  and  argan-clad  plateau.  Suddenly 
an  exclamation  of  delight  bursts  from  us  as  our  caze 
is  riveted  by  an  altogether  unexpected  sight.  There 
in  the  far  east  we  descry  a  snowy  peak  sharply  pro- 
jected against  the  deep  azure  of  the  cloudless  sky, 
gleaming  with  unspeakable  whiteness  under  the  rays 
of  the  declining  sun.  At  once  we  realise  that  we  are 
looking  for  the  first  time  on  one  of  the  higher  eleva- 
tions of  the  great  range  of  mountains  we  had  come  to 
explore ;  all  unexpectedly  one  of  its  peaks  stands 
revealed  to  us  like  a  beautiful  vision,  to  lure  us  on  and 
fire  our  eager  enthusiasm  to  be  among  its  rocky  heights 
and  snowy  recesses. 

But  while  we  lingeringly  stand  and  gaze  on  what  for 
the  moment  is  our  l-idla  or  point  of  adoration,  an  alto- 
gether different  direction  is  given  to  our  thoughts  as 
Hadj  startles  us  with  the  cry  of  "Steamer!  steamer!"  As 
we   turn  with  quick   expectancy,  he   points  to  a   mere 


AZAMOR  TO  MOGADOR.  63 

(hu'k  speck  on  the  glisteniiis^  se;i,  and  true  enough 
a  steamer  it  is,  smoothly  gliding  south  towards 
^logador. 

All  the  allurements  of  the  Atlas  snowy  peak 
are  in  an  instant  forgotten  in  the  thought  that 
letters  from  home  are  there.  Before  hurrying  on, 
we  turn  but  to  look  at  and  fix  on  the  tablets  of 
our  memory  the  grey  and  dark-green  mass  of  Jebel 
Hadid,  where,  perched  on  its  highest  summit,  is  a  tiny 
but  conspicuous  point  of  white,  like  a  patch  of  snow 
or  a  huge  quartz  rock,  telling  that  such  a  one  as 
Sidi  Yakub  has  lived  and  died,  and  is  now  one  of  the 
glorious  phalanx  who  surround  our  Lord  Mohammed, 
standing  ready  to  give  a  lift  to  such  of  the  faithful 
as  are  eager  to  inherit  the  iovs  of  Paradise. 

Under  the  special  protection  of  Sidi  Yakub,  and 
fertilised  by  the  springs  from  Jebel  Hadid,  lies  the 
lemon-coloured  plains  of  Akermut,  mottled  by  green 
fields  and  olive  groves,  and  clothed  with  isolated 
argan  trees,  among  which  may  be  descried  mosque  and 
tomb,  and,  less  conspicuously,  inhabited  houses  and 
ruined  dwellings. 

Satisfied  that  we  had  seen  all  that  was  most  note- 
worthy between  us  and  the  four  points  of  the  horizon, 
we  now  started  for  Mogador  with  all  speed  possible. 
We  cheerfully  stimulated  and  encouraged  our  fagged 
Rozinantes  with  voice  and  spur,  and  through  arar 
and  argan  groves,  into  a  dense  tangle  of  myrtle  and 
arbutus,  over  dangerous  boulder-strewn  slopes,  we 
impatiently    hurried,    till,   reaching    the    sandy    beach 


64  MOROCCO. 

south  of  Sidi  Buziirktan,  our  progress  became  easy  and 
rapid. 

As  the  sun  set  in  tlie  west  we  neared  the  northern 
gate  of  Mogador.  Rounding  a  jagged  rock,  we  were 
suddenly  confronted  by  a  European  lying  in  wait  for 
us,  apprised  from  his  house-top  of  our  coming  by  tell- 
tale glass. 

Happily  the  conventional  Ibrms  of  society  were  not 
violated  when  we  greeted  each  other  right  heartily,  for 
already  our  postal  system  had  acted  as  a  medium  of 
introduction  between  ourselves  and  our  right  good 
friend,  Mr.  Payton,  UM.  Consul  at  Mogador. 

Ere  darkness  set  in  we  were  comfortably^  installed  in 
one  of  the  inns  which  give  food  and  shelter  to  Euro- 
pean wayfarers.  Grizzly  and  sunburnt,  with  all  the 
outside  polish  of  Piccadilly  rubbed  off,  we  felt  that 
we  were  now  well  broken  in  by  our  ride  from  Casa- 
blanca, and  fit  for  any  hardship  that  might  be  in  store 
for  us. 


(    65     ) 


CHAPTER    VI. 

MOGADOR. 

The  irritating  delays  which  had  marked  our  stay  at 
Tangier  were  fated  to  be  similarly  our  portion  at 
Mogador.  No  matter  how  boundless  our  energy 
might  be,  or  how  determined  and  anxious  we  were  to 
hurry  forward  our  preparations,  we  were  bound  hand 
and  foot  by  the  inexorable  law^s  of  procrastination  and 
inaction  which  rule  all  things  INIoorish.  Servants 
had  to  be  hired,  mules  and  horses  bought,  and  infor- 
mation generally  picked  up,  and  all  had  to  be  done 
with  a  truly  exasperating  degree  of  deliberation. 

Wo  heartily  longed  to  hear  the  sharp  decisive 
"  Very  well — that's  settled  !  "  or  "  Done  !  "  as  daily 
we  were  put  off  till  "  To-morrow,"  or  were  brought  to 
the  verge  of  profane  language  by  the  pious  phrase 
''  Inshallah  ! "'    ("'  If  it  please  God  "). 

None  of  my  previous  experiences  of  travel  in  East 
or  West  Africa  were  of  the  slightest  use  to  me  here ; 
and  not  being  able  to  do  anything  but  bless  and  curse 
in  the  native  lanjruao^e,  I  was  at  a  disadvantag^e  in 
trying  to  strike  a  bargain.  I  was  fain,  therefore,  to 
leave  everything  in   the    hands    of  our    friends,    chief 

li 


66  MOROCCO. 

among  whom  were  Mr.  I'ayton  and  Mr.  J.  Louis 
Ratto,  whose  desire  to  assist  us,  like  their  good  nature 
and  their  hospitality,  was  boundless.  Finding  that 
interference  in  our  own  affairs  was  productive  of  no 
good,  there  was  nothing  for  it  but  to  seek  refuge  and 
consolation  in  the  latest  acquisition  to  ray  phrase 
vocabulary  and  sigh  out  "  Kismet !  Who  can  avoid 
the  decrees  of  Allah  ?  " 

Under  these  depressing  circumstances,  we  tried  to 
make  the  best  of  the  situation,  and  let  off  our  surplus 
energies  in  such  ways  as  "  Allah  would  show."  If 
the  Atlas  Mountains  had  not  always  loomed  so  largely 
in  our  imagination,  this  would  have  been  no  very  difficult 
or  irksome  matter  for  a  week  or  two  in  a  land  of  per- 
ennial summer,  and  where,  according  to  Mr.  Pay  ton, 
"  There  is  no  weather  ;  "  where  the  movements  of  the 
thermometer  are  restricted  between  62°  and  75°  F., 
and  the  rain-gauge  rarely  shows  a  fall  of  over  tw^elve 
inches  in  the  year.  The  tendency  which  such  a 
condition  of  things  produces  to  let  things  slide  is  fur- 
ther assisted  by  the  languorous  and  soporific  quality 
of  the  atmosphere,  which,  saturated  wath  the  damp 
developed  by  an  ocean-current  striking  the  land, 
represses  over  exuberant  energies.  While  we  tried 
with  such  patience  as  we  could  command  to  conform 
to  the  advice  of  our  friends,  we  naturally  did  our  best 
to  fight  against  the  do-nothing  tendency  of  the  place 
by  looking  round  and  making  ourselves  acquainted 
with  Mogador  and  its  vicinity.  We  did  not  discover 
much  that  needs  be  recounted  here,  or  cannot  be  more 


MOGADOR.  67 

conveniently  or  appropriately  left  to  later  chapters, 
but  a  liasty  glimpse  of  the  town  may  not  altogether 
be  out  of  place. 

Mogador  rejoices  in  being  the  best-built  and  cleanest- 
kept  place  in  ^Morocco.  This  is  largely  due  to  its  also 
being  the  most  modern,  having  been  built  in  1760  by 
Mulai  Ishmael.  The  applicability  of  its  native  name 
of  Suerah  (the  beautiful)  is  not  so  easily  understood 
by  men  of  prosaic  souls,  who,  going  outside,  remark 
its  familiar  architectural  features  and  the  heaped-up 
masses  of  sand  which  shut  in  the  view  to  the  east. 
Others,  however,  capable  of  higher  flights,  standing 
upon  the  arar-topped  hills  and  looking  down  upon 
the  mist-veiled  town,  a  glowing  sun  overhead  and 
yellow  sands  around,  will  see  in  Mogador  a  delicately- 
tinted  opal  set  in  a  rich  yellow  topaz. 

One  of  the  unique  distinctions  of  Mogador — to 
come  back  to  prose — is  its  possession  of  a  partial 
sewage  system,  which  means  that  instead  of  the 
good  old  Moorish  plan  of  having  the  sewage  deodo- 
rised and  rendered  innoxious  in  the  open  air,  and 
occasionally  washed  away  by  rain  or  carried  off  by 
scavengers,  it  is  now  collected  for  a  whole  year  in 
typhoid-breeding  drains  along  the  streets,  from  which 
it  is  extracted  once  a  year. 

On  these  occasions  the  Europeans  fly  to  the  country 
or  the  island  outside  the  harbour,  where,  amid  healthy 
breezes,  they  may  turn  over  in  their  mind  whether  or 
not  "  the  good  old  rule,  the  simple  plan,"  of  chucking 
vour   household    refuse    into   the   street,   is   not   better 


68  MOROCCO. 

than  attempting  to  introduce  the  sanitary  arrange- 
ments of  tlieir  infiJel  land  to  a  country  wliere  man 
attempts  not  to  fight  against  that  which  is  written. 

The  citadel  of  Mogador  is  a  specially  well-built  quar- 
ter, with  spacious  houses,  clean  squares,  and  straight 
streets.  Through  the  Medinah  or  Moorish  quarter  also 
a  broad  street  forms  a  continuous  market-place,  full  of 
interest  to  the  stranger. 

A  network  of  walls  divides  Mogador,  as  is  usual 
in  Moorish  towns,  into  the  Kasbah  or  quarter  of  the 
Government  officials,  the  Medinah  or  Moorish  quarter, 
and  the  Mellah  or  Jews'  town.  In  the  Kasbah  Euro- 
peans and  European-Jews  reside. 

Though  the  town  presents  few  noteworthy  points  of 
interest  in  respect  of  its  architecture,  in  other  ways, 
like  all  Oriental  towns,  it  is  replete  with  little  pictures 
and  glimpses  of  life  which  cannot  fail  to  delight  the 
traveller.  One  can  never  tire  strolling  about,  peeping 
into  the  little  workshops,  and  seeing  the  artisans  work- 
ing away  in  the  quaint  primitive  fashion  which  has 
existed  unchanged  for  centuries.  The  markets,  too, 
form  an  animated  panorama  of  scenes  of  inexhaustible 
variety,  whether  it  be  during  the  day,  when  buyer  and 
seller  eagerly  haggle  over  the  various  articles  exposed 
for  sale,  or  towards  evening,  when  the  finer  splendour 
of  the  sun  is  softened  in  the  west,  and  strolling 
musicians,  storytellers,  snake-charmers,  or  readers  of 
the  sacred  book  gather  round  them  attentive  circles  of 
listeners  or  onlookers. 

Less  agreeable  are  the   impressions  conveyed  by  a 


:teii. 
Itqnar- 

straiglit 
rteralso 


iSDsnal 
r  of  tie 
quarter, 

:  Ecro- 

oints  of 
T  ways, 
jictnres 


l!  work- 
lich  has 
Its,  too, 


•erai 
;xpo5( 


filling 
iders  of 
;«>1ps  of 


i  \  i 


MOGADOR. 


69 


visit  to  the  Mellali.  Led  by  an  ordinary  feeling  of 
curiosity,  or  impelled  by  a  sense  of  duty,  the  European 
traveller  strolls  throui^'h  the  gate  which  gives  entrance 
to  a  narrow  street  leadin-r  evidentlv  into  the  lieart  of 


JEW    OK   MOOACOU. 


the  quarter,  and  which  branches  into  a  puzzling  net- 
work of  blind  alleys  and  lanes. 

A  little  of  the  ^Mellah  suffices ;  but  the  traveller,  if 
unaccompanied  by  a  guide,  is  speedily  lost  in  the  laby- 
rinth, and  gets  ever  deeper  in  the  loathsome  continuous 
dunghill,  over  which  he  must  tramp  or  wade.      Unac- 


70  MOROCCO. 

customed  to  tlie  sif^ht  of  a  European  stranger  in  tlieir 
quarter,  the  news  spreads  like  wildfire  among  the  inhabi- 
tants, and  his  movements  are  watched  with  eager  curi- 
osity. He  is  stared  at  from  every  house-top  and  window 
by  dirty  fat  women,  the  grossest  of  their  sex  ;  the  door- 
ways and  corners  of  the  streets  are  crowded  by  mean 
and  miserable-looking  men,  all  of  whom  either  squint 
or  are  blind,  or  are  otherwise  marked  by  some  disease, 
and  look  the  beau-ideal  of  cowardly  villany  or  miserly 
greed,  as  they  canvass  with  low  voice  the  why  and 
wherefore  of  the  stranger's  presence.  A  more  forward 
and  obtrusive  phalanx  of  impudent  boys  and  idlers 
dog  his  footsteps  or  rush  past  him  to  watch  his  next 
move.  Jewish  curs,  frightened  at  the  unwonted  pre- 
sence, fly  howling,  with  tails  firmly  pressed  between 
their  legs,  while  an  occasional  cow  coming  suddenly 
round  a  corner,  stands  for  a  raomeut  paralysed,  then 
turns  and  rushes  amuck  through  the  streets,  knocking 
down  all  who  stand  in  its  terror-winged  path. 

From  this  horrid  cesspool,  where  human  beings 
batten  and  grow  up  repulsive  and  cancerous,  strangers 
to  all  that  is  bright  and  wholesome  and  beautiful  in 
God's  creation,  the  visitor  at  last  escapes  with  a  nasty 
taste  in  the  mouth,  a  sense  of  being  saturated  with  foul 
odours,  and  an  unpleasant  sensation  about  the  stomach, 
to  breathe  with  a  new  delight  the  fresh  breeze  outside 
the  town,  and  drive  away  as  far  as  possible  the  night- 
marish feeling  which  has  taken  possession  of  him. 

Between  the  Moorish  Jews  in  the  Mellah  and  the 
European   Jews    in   the    Kasbah   there   is   nothing   in 


MOGADOR.  71 

common  except  their  religion  and  their  thirst  for  gold. 
Under  tlie  protection  of  their  respective  nations,  the 
latter  enjoy  all  the  immunities  and  advantages  of  the 
Europeans,  and  are  able  to  emulate  their  brethren  in 
Egypt,  and  pay  off  old  scores  by  despoiling  of  their 
gold  the  former  oppressors  of  their  race.  Almost  the 
entire  trade  of  Mogador  is  in  Israelitish  hands,  and 
loud  is  the  outcry  of  ]\[oor  and  European  alike  against 
the  position  they  have  acquired  for  themselves. 

Attired  in  silk  hats  and  other  characteristic  Euro- 
pean articles  of  apparel,  the  Jew  of  the  Kasbah  struts 
about  the  streets  and  eyes  the  poverty-stricken  Moor 
with  the  air  of  a  man  who  knows  that  at  least  in 
Mogador  the  tables  are  turned,  and  that  his  are  the 
princely  mansion  and  the  good  things  of  this  life,  while 
theirs  is  the  pulse  and  water  and  the  mean  homes  of 
the  ]\Iedinah. 

The  tinkling  of  the  guitar  and  the  strumming  of 
the  piano  are  nightly  sounds  too  in  ]Mogador,  telling 
that  the  daughters  of  Judah  have  wealth  to  spend 
in  accomplishments.  They  delight  in  dress,  as  is 
seen  in  the  cool  evenings  on  the  sands  or  at  the 
Watergate,  where  they  turn  out  resplendent  in  paint, 
displaying  their  full  and  fat  amplitude  of  charm,  clad 
in  freshly-imported  gowns  from  London  or  Paris, 
while  their  daily-renewed  complexion  and  belladonna- 
brightened  eyes  are  shaded  by  the  daintiest  of  para- 
sols, from  underneath  which  they  know  full  well  how  to 
cast  ti'lling  glances  on  the  favoured  males  of  their  race. 

It  was  our  cood  fortune  while  at    Motrador  to  make 


72  MOROCCO. 

the  interesting  discovery  that  Morocco  has  not  one, 
but  many  Salvation  Armies,  who,  in  the  name  of  their 
respective  saints,  do  many  strange  and  horrible  things 
when  out  with  bands  and  banners  on  the  holi/  spree,  in 
which  they  indulge  on  set  occasions. 

'J'he  processions  in  honour  of  such  spiritual  leaders 
as  Sidi  Aissa  or  Sidi  Hamadsha  are  the  most  stirring 
events  which  disturb  the  even  tenor  of  life  in  Mogador. 
Though  not  unattended  with  grave  dangers,  we  made 
up  our  minds  to  see  as  much  as  possible  of  the  remark- 
able aspects  of  religious  life  in  Morocco. 

On  the  3rd  of  May  there  was  to  be  a  procession  in 
honour  of  Sidi  Hamadsha.  Tlie  night  before  was  de- 
voted to  the  spiritual  preparation  necessary  to  develop 
the  intense  feeling  and  religious  madness  required  in 
those  who  would  take  part  in  the  procession,  and  be  fit 
mediums  to  show  the  workings  of  grace  and  the  wonder- 
ful powers  of  the  saint,  that  thereby  all  men  might 
recognise  that  "  there  was  no  God  but  the  one  God." 

Disguised  in  hooded-jV/rt&s,  we  sallied  forth  towards 
the  midnight  hour  to  add  to  our  budget  of  experience 
and  assuage  our  thirst  for  adventure. 

Nothing  could  have  been  more  enchanting  than  the 
night — nothing  more  impressive  than  the  unceasing 
roar  of  the  Atlantic  rollers.  A  full  moon  overhead 
flooded  the  streets  and  lanes,  mottling  their  every 
feature  with  a  new  charm  of  light  and  shade,  giving 
the  plain  whitewashed  houses  a  ghostly  glamour 
unknown  under  the  fair  and  more  searching  light  of  a 
Moorish  sun. 


MOGADOR.  73 

In  the  Kasbali  few  people  were  astir.  One  oi'  two 
Jews  passed  homewards  in  billycocks  or  tiles,  mere  sil- 
houettes against  the  white  houses,  while,  spirit-like,  no 
footfall  was  heard.  A  Moor  now  and  then  mysteriously 
appeared,  a  new  witchery  in  his  dress  and  movements 
in  the  light  of  the  moon.  From  the  distance  a  fresh 
evening  breeze  brought  a  subdued  barbaric  clamour 
of  pipe  and  drum,  which  mingled  strangely  with  the 
notes  of"  Two  Lovely  Black  Eyes,''  as  lustily  hammered 
forth  on  the  piano  by  a  Jewish  maiden  in  our  imme- 
diate vicinity. 

On  entering  the  Medinah,  we  had  to  proceed  with 
more  caution,  and  modify  our  energetic  stride  and 
bearing  to  the  easy-going  undulating  movement  of  the 
Moor.  The  whole  quarter  was  in  an  unusual  com- 
motion. The  streets,  usually  deserted  at  this  hour, 
were  thronged  with  men  and  women  alike,  who,  in 
their  soft  white  clinging  draperies,  gave  the  place  the 
aspect  of  a  city  of  ghosts.  But  they  were  ghosts  hav- 
ing a  good  time  of  it.  Never  had  I  seen  a  Moorish 
town  more  animated.  At  every  corner  we  were  met 
by  bands  of  men  and  boys  parading  the  streets,  headed 
by  musicians,  who  skirled  out  the  most  plaintive  of 
wild  music  from  clarionet-like  pipes,  accompanied  by 
the  clamour  of  drums  and  tambourines  and  loud  sing- 
ing. Some  of  these  bands  moved  slowly,  bringing  in 
their  train  groups  of  women  and  the  more  sedate  of 
the  Moors,  while  the  music  wailed  out  melancholy  ear- 
piercing  notes  ;  others,  again,  the  real  followers  of  Sidi 
Hamadsha,   ran    about    like    madmen,   pumping    up    a 


74 


MOROCCO. 


spiritual  intoxication — their  movements  tbe  wild  antics 
of  devils,  their  music  that  of  Hades.  Here  and  there 
they  stopped  to  dance,  stamping  round  with  heavy, 
ungainly  movement,  jerking  their  heads  up  and  down, 


WOMAN,    OUT-UOUK   COSTUME. 


as  if  desirous  of  softening  their  brains  inside.  At 
times,  with  hands  held  up  in  mid-air  and  faces  turned 
heavenward,  the  moon  disclosed  their  wild  glistening 


MOGADOR.  75 

eyes,  tlifir  foain-circled  inuiitlis,  and  the  savage  excite- 
ment wliifli  marked  their  every  lineament  as  they 
screamed  out  invocations  to  Allah,  our  Lord  ]Moham- 
med,  and  Sidi  Haniadsha. 

In  the  vicinity  of  such  fanatics  we  drew  our  jc/abs 
round  our  faces  and  shrank  as  much  out  of  sight  as 
possible,  knowing  that  we  should  have  but  a  sorry 
time  of  it  if  it  was  discovered  that  Christians  were 
mixing  in  their  pious  orgies. 

Next  day  there  was  an  air  of  excitement  and  unrest 
in  the  town.  There  was  less  business  being  done,  and 
yet  mbre  people  were  moving  about.  An  unusual  pro- 
portion of  country-people  had  gathered. 

As  the  afternoon  wore  on,  the  Jews,  ^vho  are  favourite 
game  for  the  religious  fanatics,  either  retired  into  the 
Mellah,  where  they  massed 'themselves  on  the  house- 
tops, or  were  locked  up  in  their  barricaded  shops  by 
the  Governor's  soldiers.  The  ]\[oors,  on  the  other  hand, 
crowded  out  into  the  streets,  either  to  take  part  in  the 
procession  or  to  act  as  onlookers.  There  was  a  very 
large  proportion  of  women  to  be  seen,  chiefly  restricted 
to  the  house-tops,  where  they  sat  like  bundles  of  clothes 
laid  out  for  the  laundress.  Those  of  the  poorer  classes 
freely  mingled  with  the  men  in  the  streets,  though 
more  commonly  they  lined  the  walls. 

The  route  of  the  procession  was  from  the  Mcdinah, 
where  it  formed  up,  through  the  southern  gate  of  that 
quarter,  across  the  sands  and  into  the  Kasbah  by  the 
Sus  Gate,  thence  traversing  the  Government  square 
back  to  the  Mediuah. 


76  MOROCCO. 

To  see  the  procession  properly,  we  mounted  to  the 
top  of  Ratto's  house,  which  commanded  the  Sus  Gate 
and  a  fine  view  of  the  sands. 

We  had  barely  taken  up  our  position  and  cast  a 
coup-cVceil  over  the  flat  beach  and  the  remarkable  sand- 
dunes,  when  the  shrill  squeak  of  pipes  and  the  ham- 
mering of  drums  warned  us  that  the  procession  was 
leaving  the  Medinah.  Soon  we  descried  a  moving 
mass  of  white  bundles  turning  one  of  the  angles  of  the 
crenelated  city  walls.  At  first  we  could  distinguish 
nothing  but  a  number  of  rich-coloured  banners,  round 
which  crowded  a  thousand  white-robed  people.  On 
nearer  approach,  we  discovered  that  a  descendant  of 
the  saint  mounted  on  horseback  formed  the  centre  of 
the  procession  of  fanatics.  These  latter,  half  naked, 
could  be  seen  surging  round  the  banners  with  the 
mad  fury  of  a  whirlpool,  or  gathering  together  in  front, 
where  they  danced  to  the  music  with  every  conceivable 
uncouth  movement.  At  times,  as  if  animated  with  a 
sort  of  centrifugal  force,  they  broke  up  and  rushed  in 
groups  or  in  ones  or  twos  through  the  crowd  of  admir- 
ing sympathisers,  who  formed  the  major  part  of  the 
procession,  while  pulling  and  tearing  each  other  like 
hyenas  fighting  over  bones. 

On  these  occasions  the  banners  and  horsemen  moved 
forward  another  hundred  yards  or  so,  till  again  the 
Ilamadshas  gathered  round  their  leader,  and  again  in- 
dulged in  their  wild  break-down,  while  the  pipers  blew 
their  loudest  and  the  tom-toms  were  hammered  with 
renewed  visfour. 


MOGADOR.  77 

As  the  procession  neared  the  gate,  we  could  distin- 
guish the  proper  Hamadshas  not  only  by  the  wildness 
of  their  antics,  but  also  by  their  blood-smeared  heads 
and  clothes,  their  haggard  faces  and  air  of  madness. 

To  get  a  better  look  at  the  doings  of  these  remark- 
able sectaries,  we  now  hurried  down,  and  at  great  risk 
joined  the  crowd.  Anything  more  sickening  and  dis- 
gusting I  never  saw.  The  centre  of  attraction  was 
several  men,  whose  heads  were  almost  featureless  masses 
of  clotted  blood.  They  bobbed  about  in  time  to  the 
music,  and  wobbled  their  heads  up  and  down  in  the 
most  extraordinary  manner,  while  their  eyes,  blood- 
shot and  ghastly,  remained  fixed  on  the  ground.  They 
carried  sharp  daggers  in  their  hands,  with  which  they 
made  aimless  strokes  in  all  directions,  to  the  imminent 
danger  of  all  around.  Now  and  then  these  hideous 
creatures,  chosen  manifestants  of  the  spirit  of  Allah 
and  his  saint  Sidi  Hamadsha,  seized  with  an  ungovern- 
able excitement,  raised  their  daggers  in  mid-air,  and, 
with  demoniacal  gestures,  slashed  their  shaved  craniums, 
making  horrible  gashes,  from  which  the  blood  was  left 
to  flow  over  face  and  neck  and  fall  dripping  on  their 
garments  or  the  ground,  while  they  staggered  hither 
and  thither  in  the  unconsciousness  of  semi-madness. 

The  delighted  women  screamed  shrilly,  and  around 
these  favoured  performers  danced  the  admiring  men 
in  wild  frenzy.  The  musicians,  rising  to  the  occa- 
sion, expanded  their  cheeks  to  bursting-point,  or  made 
the  skin  fly  from  their  knuckles  as  they  skirled  out 
their  ear-piercing  notes  and  whacked  their  drums  with 


78  MOROCCO. 

furious  energy.  Serene  and  cabn  in  the  centre  of  this 
turmoil  the  horseman  sat  like  a  statue  of  expressionless 
unconsciousness,  his  creamy  hcddun  or  burnous  en- 
veloping him  from  head  to  feet. 

For  a  time  we  followed  on  the  outskirts  of  the 
fanatical  crowd,  wrapping  ourselves  in  the  magic 
armour  of  the  British  flag,  and  daring  any  one  to 
touch  us.  At  length,  however,  we  thought  it  wise 
not  to  test  its  invulnerability  too  much.  The  crowd 
was  evidently  being  fast  carried  away  by  ungovernable 
excitement.  Daggers  were  being  flourished  on  all 
sides  by  religious  madmen,  under  no  restraint  of  pru- 
dence or  reason.  We  had  not  quite  lost  our  heads, 
and  certainly  did  not  desire  that  our  blood  should  flow 
in  honour  of  Sidi  Hamadsha,  or  help  to  secure  a  good 
place  in  Paradise  for  him  who  should  send  us  to 
Gehenna.  We  thereupon  retired  to  our  hotel,  to 
digest  as  best  we  might  the  sickening  impressions  we 
had  received. 

The  prevailing  feeling  among  the  Europeans  who 
had  gathered  upon  the  house-tops  to  see  the  proces- 
sion was  one  of  disappointment.  No  Jew  had  been 
hunted  down  and  done  to  deatli,  and  the  Hamadshas 
had  made  but  sparing  use  of  the  knife.  No  dog  had 
been  caught,  disembowelled,  and  devoured  on  the  spot; 
no  bottles  broken  on  the  sknll  ;  nor,  indeed,  had  there 
been  any  of  the  more  curious  feats  which  the  followers 
of  Sidi  Hamadsha  or  Sidi  Aissa  are  enabled  to  do  in 
tlieir  name,  to  the  glory  of  Allah  and  the  confusion 
of  all  unbelievers. 


(     79     ) 


CnAlTER  VII. 

THE   BOAR   HUNT. 

Whenever  we  became  tired  of  the  ordinary  routine  of 
life  in  i\rogado7',  we  could  always  pass  tlie  time  in  the 
favourite  British  fashion  :  we  could  go  and  kill  some- 
thing. 

Under  the  guidance  of  "  Sarcelle  "  (Mr.  Payton),  we 
had  opportunities  of  deep-sea  fishing  such  as  few  places 
can  give.  For  my  part,  I  must  confess  that  these  were 
always  occasions  of  doubtful  enjoyment,  and  it  required 
all  the  excitement  of  hauling  in  sixty-pound  aziimsah, 
or  the  more  lively  twelve-pound  iascrff<If,  to  make  me 
forget  the  natural  repulsion  of  my  inner  man  to  any- 
thing savouring  of  a  turbulent  sea.  There  is  no  need, 
however,  for  me  to  describe  tliis  particular  sport,  that 
having  been  already  done  by  the  skilled  pen  of  the 
past-master  in  the  gentle  craft  above  alluded  to. 

It  is  different  with  the  boar-hunting,  for  which 
Mogador  is  also  famous.  The  wonderful  exploits  of 
]\[r.  Ratto  after  the  "  father  of  tusks  "  have  not  liad  a 
chronicler,  and  I  may  bo  permitted,  though  no  sports- 
man, to  describe  a  boar-hunt  under  his  auspices. 

On  the  afternoon  previous  to  the  day  of  the  hunt,  we 


8o  MOROCCO. 

assembled  before  our  leader's  house  to  the  number  of 
six  Europeans  and  as  many  servants,  all  mounted  on 
mules  and  horses.  All  the  necessaries  for  a  night  out 
having  been  safely  stowed  in  the  packs,  we  left  the 
town.  Our  way  lay  over  the  fine  sandy  beach  which 
lies  to  the  south  of  Mogadon  On  our  left  was  the 
sanctuary  of  Sidi  Mogadul,  the  patron  saint  of  ]\Iogador, 
from  and  to  which  were  passing  closely-veiled  women 
and  their  children.  On  our  right  rose  conspicuously 
the  remarkable  ruins  of  an  old  Portuguese  battery,  and 
farther  south  lay  a  half-buried  palace  of  the  Moorish 
sultans.  Along  this  level  sand  tract,  backed  on  the 
one  side  by  drifting  sandhills  and  bounded  on  the 
other  by  the  sea,  were  winding  townward  long  strag- 
gling lines  of  camels  driven  by  wild  Sus  Arabs.  For 
anything  we  saw  ahead  of  us,  we  might  have  been  in 
the  heart  of  the  Sahara. 

We  speedily  reached  the  village  of  Diabat,  on  the 
Wad  Kseb,  where  the  inhabitants  have  a  hard  battle 
with  the  ceaseless  encroachments  of  the  wind-blown 
sand.  Ascending  a  steep  slope,  we  found  ourselves  in 
a  few  minutes  on  a  low  step  or  terrace  which  leads  to 
the  broken  platean  of  the  interior.  To  the  south  the 
view  was  bonnded  by  the  dark  elevations  of  Haha,  while 
in  the  distant  east  the  peaks  of  the  Atlas  formed  a 
broken  skyline. 

We  now  continued  our  way  through  a  brake  of  the 
silky  genista,  which  here  flourishes  in  the  sunny  sterile 
sand,  and  in  an  hour  reached  a  solitary  building  known 
as  the   Palm-Tree-House,   because   of  its  conspicuous 


bof 
Won 
itont 


as  tk 
)gador, 
uomen 


on  the 
a  the 
strag- 
for 
ten  in 


.:;:  13 

si^to 
ithe 
while 

neda 

'the 

erile 

biowD 


THE  BOAR  HUNT.  8l 

single  date  tree.  This  proved  to  be  a  country  residence 
of  Mr.  llatto's  father.  Here  we  laid  ourselves  out  to 
have  a  good  night  of  it,  with  Moorish  and  Berber 
music  and  dances  provided  by  the  beaters  who  had 
been  gathered  for  the  morrow's  hunt.  One  grizzly 
old  hunter  specially  distinguished  himself  by  his  perfor- 
mance on  a  Shellach  reed  {SlicUach  is  the  name  given 
to  the  Berbers  of  Southern  Morocco).  It  would  seem 
to  be  no  easy  task  to  play  this  instrument.  The  most 
remarkable  twitches  of  the  arms,  body,  and  head, 
the  most  extraordinary  contortions  of  the  face,  were 
apparently  necessary  to  produce  the  required  harmony. 
Yet,  in  spite  of  all  the  musician's  efforts,  some  little  imp 
of  Eblis  would  ever  and  anon  burst  out  with  the  most 
startling,  ear-piercing  squeaks,  the  unexpectedness  oi 
the  effect  irresistibly  reminding  one  of  the  itinerant 
players  on  tin- whistles  who  delight  country  bumpkins 
at  fairs.  One  of  our  party  next  played  very  sweetly 
on  the  Moorish  gimhc/-//,  and  then  the  beaters  broke 
into  a  wild  dance  to  the  deafening  music  of  pipes, 
reeds,  tom-toms,  and  brass  trays.  At  length,  on  hear- 
ing "  Oh,  weel  may  the  keel  row,"  dragged  out  of  an 
accordion,  the  pcrfervidum  Scotorum  of  three  of  our 
party  proved  too  much  for  them,  and  was  not  allayed 
till  it  had  found  expression  in  a  Scotch  dance.  It 
was  long  past  midnight  ere  the  varied  selection  of 
English,  Scotch,  Spanish,  Shellach,  and  Arab  songs 
and  dances  were  got  through,  and  we  were  able  to 
spread  our  rugs  on  the  floor  and  seek  some  needed 
rest. 

F 


82  MOROCCO. 

We  were  all  astir  before  daybreak,  eaeh  cue  already 
speaking  in  subdued  tones,  as  if  feeling  that  the  moment 
had  nearly  arrived  when  silence,  caution,  sharp  ears 
and  keen  eyes  would  be  all-important  in  our  exciting 
enterprise. 

After  tea  and  a  liasty  toilet,  we  sallied  forth  in  the 
grey  dawn,  a  nasty  drizzle  overhead  and  drenching 
grass  and  bush  under  foot  not  doing  much  to  damp 
our  eager  spirits. 

Once  clear  of  the  buildings,  we  halted  to  form  uj) 
and  hold  a  council  of  war  as  to  the  direction  to  be 
taken  and  the  tactics  to  be  pursued  to  run  our  game  to 
bay.  We  looked  a  formidable  party — six  Europeans, 
twenty  native  beaters,  and  sixteen  boar-hounds,  the 
last  the  most  starved  and  woe-begone  of  their  kind, 
and  apparently  not  fit  to  kill  a  hare. 

Everything  arranged,  we  spread  out  in  line,  and 
commenced  our  march  through  the  argan  forest  and 
painful  thorny  scrub,  which  here  clad  the  uninhabited 
country. 

We  moved  along  with  the  stealthy  caution  of  men 
who  might  expect  a  lion's  charge  at  any  moment,  and 
had  a  reputation  as  skilled  sportsmen  to  keep  up. 
No  sound  broke  the  stillness  except  an  occasional 
"  Hist !  "  or  faint  whistle,  but  all  kept  a  sharp,  eager 
look-out,  and  searched  the  ground  for  boar-signs  with 
the  anxiety  of  men  who  look  for  lost  diamonds. 

Hour  after  hour  passed,  however,  and  nothing  added 
fuel  to  our  bloodthirsty  hopes  beyond  the  discovery 
here  and  there  of  a  footprint,  round  which  we  gathered 


Tllli  HOAR   IICNT.  83 

more  eat^er  thau  geologists  roiiiiil  lossil  traces  of  the 
amphibian.  i\[ean\vhile  tlie  rain  kept  falling  more 
and  more  heavily,  and  turned  us  into  the  most  be- 
draggled of  mortals.  Our  ajipetitcs  also  made  in- 
sistent demands  on  our  attention.  Under  these 
discouraging  circumstances,  the  high-strung  enthu- 
siasm with  which  we  started  began  to  cool  down.  Our 
movements  became  more  careless,  our  attitude  less 
watchful.  Our  guns  were  carried  anyhow, — over  our 
shoulder  or  resting  on  our  arms.  At  this  moment  a 
hare  sprang  from  a  bush  and  electrified  us  into  new  life. 
The  lanky  bags  of  bones  called  hounds  bounded  after  it 
with  a  fierce  rush.  With  one  accord  we  bolted  after 
them,  regardless  of  thorns  in  our  eager  excitement. 

A  sharp  squeak  as  from  a  Shellach  reed  sounded 
through  the  wood,  and  gave  renewed  speed  to  our 
ilying  feet. 

A  few  more  seconds,  and,  panting  witli  our  exer- 
tions, cheeks  Hushed  and  eyes  bright  with  rekindled 
iires,  we  were  among  the  pack. 

We  looked  eagerly  for  our  game.     Too  late  ! 

The  dogs  were  licking  their  jaws  with  unmistakable 
enjoyment  in  the  consciousness  of  having  dined. 

Though  none  of  us  had  been  in  at  the  death,  we  all 
felt  cheered  and  reanimated,  and  each  beamed  upon 
his  noighljour,  as  who  should  say,  "  Well,  boys,  the 
sport  begins."  The  hounds  were  called  "  noble  dogs  " 
and  patted  encouragingly  on  the  back. 

Heedless  of  rain  and  appetite,  we  pushed  on  again 
with    redoubled    care    and    caution    for    another    houi-. 


84  MOROCCO. 

Just  as  we  began  to  despair  of  finding  any  more  sport, 
a  tell-tale  squeak  made  us  stand  transfixed  and  breath- 
less. 

No  hare  this  time  either,  but  a  genuine  pig,  and, 
ye  gods !  a  pig  that  ran  too  ;  for  now  the  sound  was 
here,  now  there.  A  chorus  of  half-suppressed  exclama- 
tions broke  forth  from  one  and  all,  as  seizing  our  guns 
with  a  firm  grasp  and  holding  them  well  above  the 
bushes,  we  tore  after  the  dogs  like  madmen.  There 
was  no  picking  of  steps  now,  but  on  we  went  with 
a  wild  headlong  rush,  slapdash  through  thorn  bushes 
and  over  obstructing  boulders.  Then — sweet  music  in 
the  huntsman's  ear  ! — then  the  hounds  gave  tongue, 
and  their  savage  growls  and  yells  rang  in  an  inspiring 
chorus  through  the  otherwise  still  depths  of  the  forest. 
"  The  boar  at  bay  ! "'  was  the  thought  in  every  mind, 
but  no  one  spoke,  only  hurried  more  earnestly  to  the 
arena  of  savage  conflict.  A  few  more  minutes  and  we 
were  close  at  hand.  We  slackened  our  pace,  saw  that 
our  guns  were  right,  and  prepared  to  meet  a  possible 
charge.  "  Take  care  of  the  dogs,"  Ratto  panted  out. 
Nobody  replied.  With  set  teeth,  which  indicated  un- 
utterable things,  and  gleaming  eyes  watchfully  on  the 
alert,  we  moved  forward. 

The  next  moment  we  emerged  from  the  bush  to  see 
the  "  noble  dogs  "  in  one  writhing  heap,  literally  hiding 
the  boar  from  sight.  It  was  a  sight  which  sent  the 
blood  into  our  eyes  and  made  our  fingers  twitch  round 
the  barrels  of  our  guns.  But  to  shoot  was  out  of  the 
question.     We  waited  in  momentary  expectation  of  the 


THE  BOAR  HUNT.  85 

fierce  beast  hreakiii"^  I'rorn  the  worrying  pack.  Anotlier 
moinent  and  the  dogs  fell  away.  "Take" some- 
body commenced  to  shout.  But  his  sentence  never 
was  completed.  He,  like  all  the  rest  of  us,  remained 
with  eyes  fixed  and  mouth  open. 

No  boar  was  to  bo  seen  !  The  battle  had  been  short, 
bloody,  and  decisive.  Onh'  some  drops  of  blood  showed 
where  a  baby-porker  had  met  a  terrible  death. 

There  was  no  doubt  this  time,  however,  but  that 
the  game  was  of  the  genus  boar,  though  it  had  not 
reached  boarhood. 

At  the  moment  we  all  congratulated  each  other  on 
having  got  "  something  like  the  thing  "  at  last.  We 
had  drawn  blood  of  the  right  sort,  and  we  were  now 
all  eag^crness  to  <2:ot  something  to  eat  before  resuming 
the  dangerous  sport. 

We  accordingly  made  for  the  appointed  breakfasting- 
place,  and  speedily  dispatched  the  cold  fowls  and  eggs. 

We  had  not  gone  far  on  our  way  the  second  time 
before  one  of  the  Shellach  shot  another  pig,  and  then 
we  had  a  short  time  of  tremendous  excitement,  stalking 
in  some  dense  bush  a  boar  that  was  hdieved  to  be  there. 
We  never,  however,  got  a  glimpse  of  it,  probably  owing 
to  some  one  having  made  an  audible  exclamation  when 
a  big  thorn  entered  his  leg — quite  sufficient  to  make 
the  brute  disappear,  or  rather  render  itself  invisible. 
We  all  felt  very  indignant  at  the  unsportsmanlike  dis- 
turbance of  our  friend,  and  after  that  he  kept  in  the 
rear,  partly  because  the  thorn  made  him  lame,  and 
partly  because  he  felt  that  he  had  disgraced  himself. 


86  MOROCCO. 

Meanwhile  the  Shellach  and  the  doffs  had  srone  off 
on  another  scent.  We  were  soon  apprised  of  their 
whereabouts  by  one  of  the  former  waving  to  us  from 
a  ridge-top,  and  we  hurried  towards  him.  An  old 
sow  had  been  wounded  by  one  of  the  beaters,  and 
brought  to  bay  by  the  dogs.  It  had  then  been  cap- 
tured and  tied,  pending  the  arrival  of  us  Nazarenes, 
who  would  have  been  indignant  if  we  had  not  been  in 
at  the  death. 

Arrived  on  the  spot,  we  gathered  in  an  admiring 
circle  round  the  unhappy  sow,  delighted  with  our 
achievements  and  proud  of  our  prowess.  Mr.  Ratto 
drew  his  long  hunting-knife,  and  while  he  felt  its 
edge,  we  watched  him  with  bated  breath,  knowing 
that  the  climax  of  the  day's  excitement  had  come. 
The  dogs  lay  or  slouched  about,  all  their  fierce  life 
gone  out  of  them.  Picturesquely  the  Shellach  grouped 
themselves  around  the  pig,  leaning  against  their  long 
silver-ornamented  guns,  while  in  an  outer  circle  we 
stood  or  sat  on  horse  or  mule  eaorerlv  watchincf  Mr. 
Ilatto's  movements.  Satisfied  of  the  condition  of  his 
knife,  he  set  his  teeth  firmly  and  braced  himself  for 
the  last  co7(2i.  Almost  before  we  were  aware,  the  knife 
had  entered  the  old  sow's  heart ;  there  was  a  gush  of 
blood,  a  death-quiver,  and  then  all  was  still. 

Having  thus  killed  three  boars — that  is,  I  mean,  our 
dogs  and  servants  having  captured  two  baby-porkers 
and  a  sow — we  could  now  honourably  return  home. 

The  sow,  after  being  disembowelled,  was  placed  in 
the  pack-saddle  of  a  donkey  ;   and  then,  with  pipe  and 


THE  BOAR  HUNT.  87 

song,  and  men  ilnnciiig  in  iVoiit,  \vu  proceeded  back  to 
Mogador,  our  return  from  the  chase  being  haih'd  by 
admiring  crowds. 

In  all  fairness,  however,  it  must  be  said  that  boar- 
hunts  at  Mogador  were  not  by  any  means  always  such 
as  I  have  described. 

On  another  occasion  I  had  an  opportunity  of  seeing 
the  skill  that  could  be  brought  to  bear  in  tracking  a 
dangerous  boar  for  hours  together,  and  the  final  terrific 
battle  when  the  brute  was  brought  to  bay — a  truly 
demoniacal  scene  of  ferocity — the  grizzly  ''  father  of 
tusks,"  firm  as  a  rock  in  the  midst  of  his  worrying 
enemies,  tossing  them  aside  as  a  dog  would  toss  a  rat, 
gashing  them  with  horrid  wounds,  now  and  then  break- 
ing through  the  howling  cordon,  to  be  once  more 
brought  to  bay,  and  finally  to  receive  a  bullet,  and  so, 
fighting  to  the  last,  fall  dead. 


BRASS   TUAV,    M(ir,\tMIR. 


(     88 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

THROUGH  SHIEDMA    TO  SAFFI. 

At  length  everything  was  ready  for  our  final  start. 
Four  mules  had  all  been  secured,  "  real  bargains,"  and 
were  declared  to  be  the  best  of  their  hybrid  kind  at 
the  price. 

We  were  equally  congratulated  on  our  good  luck  in 
securing  such  prizes  as  the  great  hulking  camel  and 
the  diminutive  donkey,  which  completed  our  stud  of 
animals. 

All  our  servants  were  the  most  trustworthy,  the  most 
intelligent,  the  most  honest,  the  most  superlatively 
everything,  in  short,  that  was  virtuous  in  Mogador 
servants,  and  nobody  had  ever  before  gone  forth  to 
the  wilds  of  the  interior  so  well  provided  with  men 
and  animals.  We  could  not  but  congratulate  our- 
selves, and  set  out  with  a  light  heart. 

Still,  travel  in  Morocco  was  a  new  experience  to  me, 
and  our  future  success  would  depend  so  much  on  the 
sort  of  men  we  had,  that  we  did  not  think  it  wise  to 
start  straight  for  the  interior  before  we  had  in  some 
manner    experimented    on    the    general    character    of 


Til  ROUGH  SIUEDMA    TO  SA  TIT.  89 

Moorish  travel  ami  the  reality  of  our  servants'  reputed 
lionesty  and  fidelity. 

After  serious  consultation,  we  resolved,  therefore,  to 
make  a  detour  througli  the  province  of  Shiedma  to 
Safli,  where  matters  might  be  righted,  if  by  any  hap 
they  went  wrong. 

So  far  we  had  been  careful  to  keep  our  moun- 
taineering plans  a  secret.  To  have  done  otherwise 
would  only  have  ensured  the  effectual  blocking  of  the 
way.  We  should  still  have  been  able  to  get  men,  but 
they  would  have  been  such  as  would  have  taken  very 
good  care  that  we  never  left  the  safe  frequented  routes 
of  the  plains.  Under  these  circumstances,  it  was  thought 
advisable  to  engage  them  simply  to  travel  "in  the  in- 
terior," leaving  them  to  put  what  interpretation  they 
pleased  on  the  phrase. 

In  one  respect,  and  that  an  all-important  one,  we 
were  placed  at  a  very  great  disadvantage — we  could 
get  no  proper  and  trustworthy  interpreter.  Three  of 
our  servants  had  a  suflicient  smattering  of  French  and 
English  for  all  camp  purposes,  but  utterly  inadequate 
for  the  more  difficult  task  of  collecting  reliable  infor- 
mation and  communicating  with  the  people.  Worse 
than  all,  this  unfortunate  circumstance  placed  us  hope- 
lessly at  tlic  mercy  of  our  followers  the  moment  they 
chose  to  object  to  any  particular  route.  A  very  de- 
pressing and  tiireatening  thunder-cloud  this  to  arise 
on  the  bright  horizon  of  our  hopes  at  the  very  outset 
of  our  journey.  Turn  the  matter  over  as  we  might, 
wo    could    not    see    how    we    were    to    arrest  or   fight 


90  MOROCCO. 

against  tlie  almost  certain  storm.  As  for  the  out- 
come, what  could  we  do  but  shrug  our  shoulders  and 
exclaim,  "  Allah  will  show  !  " 

It  was  on  the  7th  of  May  that  we  left  Mogador. 
Our  little  party  consisted  of  five  men,  five  mules,  a 
camel,  a  donkey,  and  my  horse  Toby.  My  companion 
had  not  yet  been  able  to  get  a  charger  to  his  fancy, 
but  trusted  in  the  good  providence  of  Allah  and  the 
friendly  offices  of  Mr.  Hunot  at  SaSi  to  supply  him 
with  a  suitable  mount. 

Our  small  caravan  made  a  picturesque  display  as, 
headed  as  usual  by  a  soldier,  we  rode  through  the 
throng  of  Moors,  Jews,  and  Europeans  collected  to  see 
us  off,  passed  under  the  Sus  gate,  and  on  the  sandy 
beach  bade  our  friends  good-bye.  This  melancholy 
ceremony  was  short  enough,  as  far  as  we  were  con- 
cerned, but  not  so  with  our  followers,  who  do  these 
sort  of  things  with  more  decency  and  order.  A  hasty 
prayer  had  to  be  muttered,  looking  eastwards,  acknow- 
ledging the  greatness  of  Allah  and  the  submission  or 
themselves  to  his  decrees.  Pardon  also  had  to  be 
asked  for  the  sin  of  entering  the  service  of  "  rebels 
against  God."  These  pious  duties  over,  they  had,  with 
all  proper  circumlocution  and  thoroughness,  to  reply 
to  the  good  wishes  of  their  friends. 

The  view  outside  suggested  a  hot  day.  A  shim- 
mering haze  rose  from  the  sterile  sands  and  hung  like 
a  fog  over  the  town,  the  minarets  and  towers  breaking 
through  with  a  certain  weird  and  ghostly  effect. 

Once  clear  of  the  beach,  we  entered  the  sand-dunes 


THROUGH  SHIliDMA    TO  SAFIT.  91 

which  clothe  tlic  seaward  slope  of  the  coast-hills. 
These  dunes  had  assumed  the  most  remarkable  shapes 
under  the  steady  drifting  action  of  the  south-west 
winds,  which  in  winter  blow  with  great  force.  At 
places  they  curved  round  in  hillocks  resembling  broken 
volcanic  craters,  not  infrequently  enclosing  curious  little 
jjonds  of  water,  round  which  the  sand  heaped  itself  in 
sheltering  semicircles. 

Over  tliese  barren  wreaths  of  triturated  sea-shells 
our  way  now  lay  for  over  an  hour,  till  reaching  the 
top  of  the  hill,  we  found  ourselves  on  the  first  of  two 
steps  which  raise  the  traveller  to  the  level  of  the  lower 
plateau  of  Southern  Morocco. 

As  we  took  our  last  glimpse  of  Mogador,  we  rejoiced 
exceedingly  at  the  thought  that  we  were  olf  at  last. 
'J'he  worry  of  preparation  was  over,  and  the  lazy  lotu.s- 
eating  life  of  the  coast-town  cut  away  iVoni.  We  were 
now  free.  Everything  we  required  for  food  and  shelter 
was  on  our  mules,  and  we  could  see  nothing  ahead  of 
us  but  romantic  rides  through  new  and  ever-varied 
scenes,  or  equally  romantic  camps  in  shady  orange  or 
olive  groves,  amid  all  the  delightfully  picturescjue  sur- 
roundings of  Oriental  life.  How  far  these  enthusiastic 
day-dreams  were  realised,  and  what  other  and  less 
agreeable  elements  were  added  to  our  experiences,  it  is 
the  purpose  of  these  pages  to  show. 

Proceeding  on  our  way,  we  passed  over  a  strip  oi 
ijround  where  the  winds  and  sands  still  strus'ti'led   to 

&  or) 

assert  themselves  among  silvery  brooin-likc;  genista 
bushes   in   the   hollows   and   more   hanlv  resin-scented 


92  MOROCCO. 

arars  on  the  exposed  ridges.  Gradually,  however,  the 
sands,  and  with  tliem  tlie  arar  and  the  genista,  dis- 
appeared, giving  place  to  more  fertile  soils  and  argan 
trees.  On  the  gnarled  trunks  and  branches  of  the 
latter  goats  and  kids  skipped  about  like  monkeys, 
avidly  devouring  the  leaves  and  olive-like  fruit. 

As  we  continued  to  travel  eastward,  the  landscape 
became  more  and  more  varied,  though  retaining  the 
general  aspect  of  a  tree-dotted  park.  There  were  fields 
where  the  natives  were  reaping  their  scanty  crops  of 
barley  by  simply  cutting  off  the  ears,  and  there  were 
glades  bright  with  larkspur,  marguerite,  and  marigold. 
Fortified  villages  with  square  and  round  high  towers 
dominating  their  vicinity  were  marked  features  in  the 
landscapes,  the  numerous  ruins  of  many  more  such, 
affording  melancholy  evidence  of  a  former  prosperity 
now  no  longer  enjoyed.  Everywhere  were  vestiges  of 
irricration  channels  and  other  signs  of  a  large  and  in- 
dustrious  population,  of  which  only  a  remnant  now 
remains,  dejected  and  spiritless  waiters  on  Allah's 
providence. 

At  mid-day  we  reached  some  very  extensive  ruins, 
the  chief  feature  of  which  was  the  remains  of  a  fine 
aqueduct  that  had  supplied  the  town  with  water. 
Though  only  built  of  clay  and  lime,  it  had  resisted 
the  weather  wonderfully. 

Some  distance  beyond  we  struck  the  "Wad  Kseb  or 
Diabat,  and  after  a  halt  for  rest  and  refreshment  we 
resumed  our  march. 

From  our  halting-place  we  again  diverged  from  the 


THROUGH  SHIEDMA    TO  SAFFI.  93 

stream,  and  Ibllowint,'  a  small  tributary,  we  marched  up 
a  picturesque  glen,  which  conducted  us  to  the  top  of 
the  second  terrace  or  step,  and  consequently  to  the 
irregular  expanse  of  the  lower  plateau  of  Southern 
Morocco. 

From  our  elevation  of  nearly  2000  feet  we  com- 
manded a  line  view  over  the  country  beneath  us 
seaward,  across  the  argan  terrace  to  the  yellow  sand- 
dunes,  and  ]\rogador  by  the  gleaming  sea ;  and  east- 
ward over  a  monotonous  plain  to  the  snow  peaks  of 
the  Atlas.  The  view  on  the  right  was  restricted  by 
the  heights  of  Mullai  Hassan,  which  form  the  northern 
edge  of  the  higher  plateau  of  Southern  Morocco,  and 
of  the  provinces  of  Haha  and  Mtuga. 

Towards  sunset  we  reached  a  strongly-built  and 
semi- fortified  dwelling,  nominally  the  property  of  a 
native,  but  practically  held  by  one  of  our  Mogador 
friends,  who  occupies  it  occasionally  as  a  summer  resi- 
dence. Here  we  stayed  the  night,  and  were  hospi- 
tably entertained  by  the  native  in  charge,  who  killed 
his  fatted  sheep  and  his  best  fowls,  ransacked  the  hen- 
roosts and  milked  the  cows,  all  on  our  behalf. 

With  the  morrow  came  the  first  cares  and  worries 
of  travel.  The  mules  were  found  to  be  overloaded, 
and  the  camel — our  camel,  of  which  we  had  been  so 
proud — turned  out  to  be  a  fraud,  and  liad  already  gone 
lame. 

The  men  had  spent  the  night  between  gorging  and 
smoking  the  intoxicating  kief,  and  were  roused  to  their 
duties  with  difficulty. 


94  MOROCCO. 

They  set  about  their  preparation  slowly  and  sulkily, 
grumbling  audibly  against  being  disturbed  so  early  in 
the  morning.  My  astonishment  was  great  and  dis- 
agreeable to  see  the  suave  and  willing  servants  of  the 
day  before  showing  very  decided  tendencies  towards 
mutiny  and  insolence  as  I  superintended  their  opera- 
tions with  ever-growing  impatience. 

Before  we  got  under  weigh,  El  Hadj  from  Casablanca 
— who  recently  had  sadly  belied  the  promise  of  first 
acquaintanceship — made  my  temper  get  the  better  of  me 
by  an  insolent  rejoinder  made  to  an  order  of  mine. 

I  seized  him  fiercely  by  the  Jelah  and  shook  him 
till  he  became  livid  with  fear,  though  his  snaky  eyes 
glittered  with  murderous  thoughts. 

It  was  easy  to  see  that  the  men  took  us  for  two  un- 
travelled  greenhorns,  such  as  they  had  hitherto  come 
in  contact  with,  and  it  was  necessary  that  they  should 
learn  without  delay  that  one  at  least  was  a  past  master 
in  the  art  of  travel.  If  there  was  to  be  a  fight  for  the 
mastery,  well  the  sooner  it  was  over  the  better. 

The  day's  proceedings  were  marked  by  one  con- 
tinued row.  The  men  objected  to  walk  to  relieve  the 
mules  and  camel,  but  to  walk  they  were  compelled- 
Generally  speaking,  they  all  conducted  themselves  as 
if  under  the  influence  of  bang,  as  at  least  three  of 
them  really  were. 

The  country  was  grievously  uninteresting,  present- 
ing not  one  feature  to  attract  the  attention  for  a  sino:le 
moment.  Crust-bound,  largely  clad  with  thorns  and 
acacias,   it    defied    the    efforts   of   the   husbandman  to 


TUROVCll  SIIIl-DMA    TO  SAI'Fl.  95 

wivst  tVdiii  its  barR'U  Ijosoiii  fJic  necessaries  of  lile. 
Tlie  bi-idle-patb  treiRleJ  bcwildci'inj^-ly  in  every  direc- 
tion but  straight  ahead,  while  the  sun  beat  down 
pitilessly,  untempered  by  any  cooling  sea-breeze.  Soon 
the  tip  of  my  nose  was  raw,  and  I  began  to  ask  myself 
if,  after  all,  the  Ethiopian  might  not  be  able  to  change 
his  skin. 

As  I  looked  at  this  dreary,  scantily-inhabited  country, 
noted  the  sulky,  impudent  demeanour  of  our  men,  and 
felt  myself  for  the  moment  little  better  than  an  enforced 
slave-driver,  I  wondered  at  the  evil  chance  wliicli  had 
plunged  me  into  such  heart-breaking  worry  and  led 
me  to  such  a  cursed  country. 

At  mid-day  our  worst  troubles  were  over,  on  our 
arrival  at  the  featureless  clay-built  Kasbah  of  the 
Ivaid  of  Shiedma.  The  latter,  on  learning  under  what 
auspices  we  travelled,  dispatched  a  messenger  to  entreat 
us  to  take  up  our  quarters  in  the  castle  ;  but  remem- 
bering our  e.xperiences  at  Kaid  Aissa's,  we  politely 
declined,  resolved  to  stick  to  our  tents. 

Once  comfortably  installed  in  camp,  and  with  tiie 
men  in  Itetter  liuiiiotir  as  abundance  of  cooked  and 
uncooked  mona  poured  in,  we  began  to  look  on  our 
situation  with  more  genial  eyes,  and  think  that  after 
all  matters  might  be  worse.  Still  we  found  it  neces- 
sary to  keep  up  a  jiolicy  of  watchfulness  and  stern 
repression.  We  soon  discovered  that  the  cunning  and 
villainous  men  who  formed  our  party,  despising  and 
hating  as  they  did  all  Christians,  had  been  accustomed 
to  do  what  they  pleased  with  tlie  tourist^  who  fell  into 


96  MOROCCO. 

their  clutches,  phmdering  them  right  and  left,  and 
using  them  as  tools  for  exploiting  the  governors  and 
country-people,  on  whom  they  saddled  tliemselves. 

Their  metliod  had  been  to  represent  their  temporary 
masters  as  ambassadors  or  consuls,  or  great  men  travel- 
ling with  letters  from  the  Sultan,  and  in  their  name 
demand  the  most  outrageous  supplies  of  provisions, 
which,  of  course,  when  obtained,  they  mostly  converted 
into  hard  cash  for  their  own  particular  benefit. 

The  sale  of  the  provisions  w^as  always  known  to  the 
givers  of  it,  and  put  to  the  credit  of  the  Europeans, 
who  were  thus  supposed  to  enrich  themselves  while 
travelling  through  Morocco. 

This  little  game  w^e  determined  to  repress  at  once, 
and  it  cannot  be  said  that  our  consequent  proceedings 
acted  like  oil  on  troubled  waters.  But  however  bitter 
the  struggle,  it  was  imperative  that  there  should  be  no 
doubt  as  to  who  were  the  masters. 

In  the  evening  we  visited  the  Kaid,  a  fat  though 
handsome  man,  of  imposing  appearance  in  his  many 
draperies  and  massive  turban.  We  found  him  half- 
reclining  on  a  Rabat  carpet,  supported  by  a  cushion  of 
morocco  leather.  The  room  was  long  and  narrow,  and 
neither  plastered  nor  whitewashed,  and  its  clay-built 
humbleness  looked  anything  but  becoming  the  reception- 
room  of  a  powerful  governor.  There  were  no  windows, 
the  only  light  being  that  which  streamed  in  through  the 
doorway.  In  the  semi-darkness,  while  our  interpreter 
spoke  for  us,  we  could  see  that  one  end  of  the  apart- 
ment  had   the   appearance   of  an   unarranged  general 


THROUGH  SHI  RDM  A   TO  SAFFI.  97 

store,  there  being,  among  other  articles,  loaves  of  sugar, 
boxes  of  tea,  suspicious-looking  bottles,  and  packets  of 
candles. 

From  the  Kasbali  our  route  turned  once  more  coast- 
wards  through  a  much  more  varied  and  interesting 
country.  The  Kaid  had  not  only  sent  two  soldiers 
with  us,  but  supplied  a  horse  for  C.-B.  to  ride,  and  a 
camel  and  a  mule  to  ease  our  own  animals.  In  con- 
sequence there  was  less  fi'iction  between  our  men  and 
ourselves,  and  we  ambled  along  quite  pleasantly  over 
the  rocky  and  but  little  cultivated  country  which  forms 
the  district  of  El  Kurumut.  In  two  hours  we  entered 
a  more  hilly  country,  crowned  with  arar  woods,  the 
hollows  and  slopes  enclosed  by  dykes,  and  bright  with 
llowery  fields  and  crops  of  barley. 

At  mid-day,  after  traversing  a  forest  of  argan,  we 
reached  the  edge  of  the  plateau,  and  descended  to  the 
lower  terrace  by  a  narrow  defile  cut  out  of  the  almost 
horizontal  massive  beds  of  white  limestone,  and  well- 
wooded  with  very  large  argan  trees.  In  less  than  an 
hour  we  emerged  from  the  defile  at  a  charming  grove 
where  a  Monday  market  (SoJc  Udata)  is  held.  Thence 
we  rode  over  beautifully-wooded  and  cultivated  grounds, 
whose  bramble-matted  hedges  and  stone  dykes  bad  an 
unexpectedly  homelike  aspect,  and  finally  camped  at  the 
eastern  foot  of  Jebel  Hadid  in  the  district  of  Takat. 

As  we  sat  in  a  shady  nook  enjoying  the  cool  evening 
and  our  coftee,  we  could  not  but  think  that  Moorish 
travel  was  not  so  bad  after  all.  Under  shady  trees 
stood  one  or  two  small  tents,  whose  open  doors  displayed 


98 


MOROCCO. 


theif  soniewliat  crowded  contents  of  bed  and  box,  sur- 
veying instruments,  photographic  apparatus,  guns,  &c. 
Behind  them  rose  a  very  primitive  erection,  con- 
structed of  old  sacks,  the  kitchen  and  head-quarters  of 
Hadj  Hamad,  wliose  duties  had  now  become  restricted 
to  cooking.  Farther  off  stood  a  tent  of  considerable 
size,  which  served  as  a  dining-room  by  day  and  as  a 
sleepingc-room  for  tlie  men  by  night,  at  the  same  time 


CAMP   IN    OI.IVK   GROVE. 


giving  shelter  to  the  remainder  of  our  baggage.  Near 
the  tents  stood  our  horses,  hobbled  and  pinned  down 
to  restrain  their  combative  propensities.  Some  distance 
from  the  horses  the  mules  were  tethered  by  the  feet  to 
a  rope  in  a  single  line,  and  beside  them  lay  the  camel 
and  the  donkey.  The  camping-ground  was  a  grove  of 
olives,  whose  branches  threw  a  chequered  shadow  over 


THROUGH  SHIEDMA    TO  SAFFI.  99 

the  grassy  ground  011  wliicli  our  attendants  sat  or  lay 
in  picturesque  groups.  Farther  off  little  knots  of 
country-men  watched  us  with  a  kind  of  passive  curiosity, 
wondering  doubtless  why  Allah  permitted  such  as  we  to 
wander  over  the  land  of  his  chosen. 

Through  the  openings  in  the  grove  we  caught 
glimpses  of  the  yellow  fields  of  barley,  the  light-green 
vineyards,  and  darker  woods  of  argan  which  formed 
the  district  of  Takat. 

The  men  were  all  in  good-humour.  We  had  no 
occasion  to  trouble  ourselves  about  the  wherewithal  to 
live,  food  of  all  kinds  having  been  brought  to  us  in 
absurd  abundance,  while  the  Sheik  of  the  district  pro- 
vided for  the  safety  of  our  persons  and  property  by 
posting  a  line  of  guards  all  round  the  camp. 

The  day  following  our  arrival  at  Takat  was  devoted 
to  an  ascent  of  the  celebrated  Iron  Mountains.  We 
had  but  to  signify  our  wishes  to  the  Sheik  of  the  dis- 
trict to  have  a  quaint  assemblage  of  natives  placed  at 
our  disposal  as  guards  and  guides.  To  ensure  that  no 
harm  should  come  to  us,  as  well  as  to  keep  a  watchful 
eye  on  our  proceedings,  the  Sheik  himself  and  the 
Raid's  two  soldiers  accompanied  us. 

Leaving  camp  in  the  cool  of  the  morning,  we  fol- 
lowed the  base  of  the  mountain  till  we  struck  a  ruo-sred 
pathway  leading  up  its  side.  At  first  we  rode,  but 
the  slope  soon  became  too  rocky  and  steep,  and  we  had 
to  take  to  our  feet.  We  verv  soon  came  to  a  vawninor 
hole,  which,  on  looking  in,  we  could  see  widened  into 
a  large  chamber,  evidently  cut  by  human  hands  out  of 


loo  MOROCCO. 

the  limestone  rocks,  here  almost  vertical  in  dip.  On 
descending  to  explore,  we  found  that  the  excavation 
cut  across  the  beds  of  rock  and  narrowed  till  the  floor 
and  ceiling  met  some  fifty  feet  into  the  mountain. 
What  puzzled  us  was  the  absence  of  any  marked  signs 
of  iron  lodes — though  fur  that  mineral  it  was  un- 
doubtedly dug — as  its  position,  the  nature  of  the  rock, 
and  its  shape  made  the  theory  of  its  being  a  cave- 
dwelling  out  of  the  question. 

On  leaving  this  excavation,  a  stiff  climb  brought  us 
to  the  top,  at  an  elevation  of  over  2  000  feet.  From 
the  crest  of  the  narrow  range  we  commanded  a  splendid 
view,  extending  from  Saffi  to  far  south  of  Mogador,  and 
from  the  limitless  Atlantic  horizon  to  the  haze-veiled 
peaks  of  the  Atlas.  Immediately  beneath  us,  to  the 
west,  lay  the  plain  of  Akermut,  a  variegated  assemblage 
of  bush,  field,  and  sandhill  winding  along  the  coast.  On 
the  other  side  of  the  mountain  we  could  see  the  white 
tents  of  our  camp  in  its  sheltering  olive  grove,  and  the 
whole  district  of  Takat  spreading  out  between  us  and 
the  plateau  edge,  with  its  tracery  of  olive  and  argan, 
vineyard  and  cornfield,  ending  in  the  black  masses  of 
arar  which  clothed  the  heights  from  which  we  had 
descended  on  the  previous  day. 

Having  satisfied  ourselves  in  addition  with  a  hasty 
look  towards  the  winding  course  of  the  Wad  Tensift 
in  the  north  and  the  familiar  features  of  Mogador  in 
the  opposite  direction,  we  proceeded  along  the  crest  of 
the  range  in  search  of  the  iron-mines. 

A  sheep-track  led  us  over  a  bouldery  surface  covered 


THROUGH  SHIHDMA   TO  SAFFI.  loi 

with  i^iun-cystus  and  briL''lit  masses  of  wild  tliyrae, 
till  suddenly  we  were  brought  up  close  to  a  remarkable 
pit  or  quarry-like  cavity,  quite  1 00  yards  lon<r,  50  to 
70  broad,  and  some  150  feet  deep. 

'•  Of  volcanic  origin,"  was  the  explanation  which 
naturally  occurred  to  me,  as  I  looked  at  its  shape  and 
its  perpendicular  walls  and  considered  its  position  on 
the  crest  of  the  mountain,  not  to  speak  of  the  extensive 
nature  of  the  cavity,  wliich  seemed  to  preclude  the 
idea  of  its  being  the  work  of  man. 

Filled  with  this  idea,  I  forthwith  began  to  search 
for  further  evidence  of  its  igneous  origin.  With  small 
result,  however,  beyond  determining  the  fact  that  the 
beds  were  much  smashed ;  there  was  no  marked  trace 
of  metamorphism,  nor  was  there  any  lava  debris. 

We  descended  into  the  pit  by  a  rugged  crevice 
choked  with  a  rank  profusion  of  bush  and  creeper 
growing  in  the  interstices  of  the  rocks.  Enor- 
mous blocks  of  fallen  limestone  here  and  there  al- 
most closed  the  way,  but  after  a  severe  and  somewhat 
dangerous  struggle  we  got  to  the  bottom.  As  we 
peered  about,  it  was  gradually  forced  on  our  minds 
that    thouidi    volcanic    agencies    had    been    at    work, 

DO  ' 

man  also  had  been  no  insignificant  agent  in  produc- 
ing what  we  saw  around  us.  We  were,  in  fact,  in  the 
mines  which  for  unnumbered  centuries  the  Berbers, 
and  later  on  the  Moors,  had  worked  for  iron.  This 
metal  we  could  see  as  a  hydrous  oxide  running  in 
irregular  lodes  or  HUing  small  cavities. 

At  the   bottom   of  the   pit   we   were  shown  a  small 


102  MOROCCO. 

liole  runiuDg  into  the  rock,  and  which  we  were  told 
penetrated  to  the  heart  of  the  mountain,  and  opened 
finally  on  the  nionntain-side.  We  were  not  provided 
with  lights,  and  could  therefore  do  nothing,  but  we 
resolved  to  return  on  the  following  day  and  extend  our 
exiDloration. 

To  satisfy  the  religious  cravings  of  our  men,  we 
went  south  to  tlie  Kuba  of  Sidi  Yakub,  which  stands, 
in  its  gleaming  whiteness,  on  the  topmost  peak  of  Hadid 
like  a  spiritual  beacon  warning  reckless  navigators  on 
the  ocean  of  life  of  the  dangerous  rocks  and  whirl- 
pools which  beset  their  route,  and  pointing  out  the 
narrow  way  leading  to  the  peaceful  haven  of  the  true 
believer. 

While  our  men  prayed,  with  heads  bowed  to  the 
dust,  acknowledging  the  greatness  of  Allah,  and  ear- 
nestly beseeching  the  guidance  of  Sidi  Yakub  to  show 
them  the  way  to  heaven,  we  tixed  our  position  on  this 
earth  by  compass-bearings,  and  by  aid  of  aneroid  and 
thermometer  determined  the  interesting  fact  that  we 
w^ere  2470  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea. 

On  our  way  down  the  mountain  by  an  easier  path 
than  that  by  which  we  had  ascended,  Crichton-Browne 
was  in  momentary  danger  of  reaching  the  bottom 
with  unexpected  and  dangerous  rapidity.  His  saddle 
slipped  suddenly  forward  from  the  back  of  his  mule, 
and  nearly  gave  him  a  very  nasty  fall.  Our  men 
called  loudly  upon  Allah,  but  secretly  sniggered  with 
delight  as  they  saw  in  this  contretem2)s  a  sign  that 
their  prayers  had  been   heard,  and  that  the  infidel  in 


THROUGH  SIIIHDMA    TO  SAFII.  103 

all  lands  would  yet  be  cast  dowu  and  broken  upon 
the  rocks. 

On  our  arrival  in  camp,  a  native  brought  a  child 
which  had  been  bitten  by  a  snake  some  hours  before,  in 
the  hope  that  we  could  cure  it.  Useless,  however,  for 
it  was  already  in  tlie  convulsions  of  death.  As  the  last 
spasms  of  life  shook  the  little  body,  and  its  eyes  glazed 
over  and  became  fixed,  our  men  muttered  "  Inshallak  " 
(the  will  of  God),  and  the  distressed  father  covered  the 
little  fellow  with  his  cloak  and  went  sadly  away. 

In  the  evening,  after  the  impression  of  the  painful 
scene  had  passed  away  somewhat,  finding  that  the 
Sheik  of  Takat  was  an  uncommonly  good  fellow,  we 
tempted  him  to  sin.  Before  he  was  aware  of  our 
intention,  we  spread  before  him  all  the  allurements  in 
face  and  figure  of  some  English  maidens,  as  portrayed 
by  the  art  of  the  photographer,  and  expressly  forbidden 
by  the  Koran.  If  we  had  asked  his  permission  first, 
he  would  have  cried  with  horror,  "  Allah  forbid  !  "  but 
now,  when  his  eye  rested  on  the  strange  dresses  and 
charming  outlines  of  our  countrywomen,  he  ejaculated 
very  heartily,  ''  God  is  great,"'  and,  forgetting  every- 
thing in  the  sweet  pleasure  of  sin,  looked  long  and 
intently  at  the  counterfeit  presentments  of  these  the 
fairest  of  His  creatures. 

As  he  looked  from  portrait  to  portrait,  we  could  see 
his  expressive  features  brighten  up  as  the  thought 
crossed  his  mind,  ''  If  I'aradise  is  peopled  with  such  as 
these  !  " — or  darken  as  he  reasoned,  "  What  a  pity  that 
the  })ortion  of  these  fair  inlidels  is  Gehenna!" 


I04  MOROCCO. 

It  was  with  surly  faces,  attempted  evasions,  and 
vehement  protests  that  such  of  our  men  as  we  required 
followed  us  next  morning  to  the  top  of  Hadid,  their 
conduct  causing  us  to  ask  almost  with  despair  what 
would  happen  when  the  Atlas  Mountains  had  to  be 
scaled. 

On  reaching  the  entrance  to  the  underground  pas- 
sage, there  was  further  mutiny,  and  rather  than  venture 
into  what  might  be  a  dangerous  place  with  unwilling 
and  cowardly  attendants,  I  left  them  behind,  and  en- 
listed the  services  of  two  of  the  natives.  One  of  them 
led  the  way  with  a  candle,  while  the  second  followed 
behind  with  another. 

The  task  of  exploration  proved  more  disagreeable, 
difficult,  and  dangerous  than  I  had  expected.  We  had 
simply  to  wriggle  ourselves  along  like  snakes,  half- 
suffocated  by  the  dust  we  raised  as  we  dragged  our- 
selves through  barely  passable  holes,  over  and  round 
fallen  blocks  from  the  roof,  which  suggested  disagree- 
able reflections  on  the  possibility  of  being  squashed  to 
death  or  buried  alive.  Here  and  there  we  had  to  let 
ourselves  down  to  deeper  levels.  The  iron  veins  or 
lodes  had  manifestly  followed  the  most  irregular  course 
and  spread  out  into  the  most  bewildering  ramifications. 
Not  findings  anv  more  strikingf  discoverv  reo^ardini;  the 
former  miners  than  here  and  there  a  number  of  wooden 
props,  and  becoming  alarmed  at  the  nature  of  the  dis- 
agreeable labyrinth,  with  its  narrow  niches,  its  turns 
and  twists,  and  ups  and  downs,  I  resolved  to  turn 
back.      Easier  said  than  done.      The  difierent  passages 


THROUGH  SHIEDMA   TO  SAFFI.  105 

were  all  so  mueh  alike,  aud  led  in  so  many  different 
directions  arnong  the  broken  limestone  beds,  that  we 
speedily  became  quite  bewildered. 

We  tried  more  than  one  passage,  only  to  find  that 
we  were  evidently  on  the  wrong  track.  This  began 
to  be  alarming,  and  I  anxiously  calculated  how  long 
our  candles  would  last.  In  little  more  than  half  an 
hour  we  would  be  in  utter  darkness  and  absolutely 
helpless.  The  man  who  led  had  declared  that  he 
knew  the  mines  thoroughly,  but  all  the  comfoi't  we 
could  now  get  from  him,  on  angrily  demanding  which 
was  the  right  passage,  was  the  declaration  that  '"  God 
would  show."  I  must  confess  that  I  began  to  be 
somewhat  demoralised  as  the  consequences  of  our  situa- 
tion grew  up  more  clearly  in  my  mind.  We  shouted 
to  those  we  had  left  outside.  We  listened  with  ab- 
sorbing attention,  but  there  was  no  reply.  Only  mock- 
ing echoes  came  back  to  us  from  all  sides,  as  from 
imps  of  Eblis  laughing  at  our  painful  dilemma.  Again 
we  despairingly  struggled  to  worm  our  way  out,  seeing 
that  "  there  was  no  help  nor  guidance  but  in  God." 
The  candles  were  getting  perilously  low.  Again  we 
shouted  lustily.  As  we  held  our  breaths,  and  almost 
suspended  the  beating  of  our  hearts,  a  faint  sound 
which  was  not  an  echo  reached  our  ears.  But  where 
did  it  come  from  ?  Listen  as  we  might,  we  could  not 
localise  it.  Was  it  from  above  or  was  it  from  below, 
in  front  or  behind  ?  No  matter.  We  felt  that  the 
danger  was  over  now  that  we  were  within  earshot. 

More   than  once  we   had   to  wriggle  ourselves  back 


io6  MOROCCO. 

heels  first,  there  being  no  room  to  turn  in  our  burrows. 
At  length  a  faint  ray  of  light  gleamed  in  upon  us,  and 
in  a  few  more  minutes  we  re-emerged  into  the  full 
brilliancy  of  mid -day,  to  be  greeted  with  irrepressible 
laughter  by  my  companion  as  he  noted  my  sorry  plight 
and  the  absurd  figure  I  cut,  coated  with  iron  dust  from 
head  to  foot.  I  certainly  thought  he  had  had  the  best 
of  it  this  time  shooting  "  blue  rocks,"  and  that  Moorish 
mine- exploration  was,  to  quote  one  of  his  favourite 
phrases,  "  an  over-rated  amusement."  This  reflection, 
however,  did  not  find  audible  expression.  On  the  con- 
trary, to  show  him  that  I  had  not  been  an  earthworm 
for  nothing,  I  held  forth  to  him  in  these  terms,  as  I 
seated  myself  on  a  rock  to  recover  after  my  struggle 
in  the  mine  : — 

"  We  are  now  in  the  very  centre  or  focus  of  erup- 
tion by  which  the  almost  horizontal  limestone  beds  we 
have  seen  all  round  the  mountain  have  been  thrust  up, 
till  they  stand  on  end  and  form  the  short  and  narrow 
range  which  runs  north  and  south,  as  you  see,  like  a 
fish's  dorsal  fin.  This  huge  pit  has  in  all  probability 
been  blown  out  of  the  centre  of  the  mountain  by  an 
explosion  of  steam,  though  largely  refilled  by  the  shat- 
tered debris.  Springs,  probably  hot,  and  charged  with 
hydrated  oxides  of  iron,  have  undoubtedly  risen  through 
this  nature's  safety-valve,  and  deposited  their  mineral 
load  among  the  debris  in  such  irregular  veins  as  I 
have  just  been  exploring,  and  in  such  cavities  as  you 
see  there  in  the  face  of  the  rock.  In  process  of  time 
these  have  dried  up  or  found  other  exits  in  the  moun- 


THROLGII  sum  DM  A   TO  SAFIL  107 

taiu-side,  but  somethin<!j  of  tlic  residual  heat  which 
produced  tlie  steam  which  raised  this  mountain  and 
deposited  that  iron  is  still  to  be  remarked  in  the  hot 
sprint,^s  which  bubble  up  in  the  glen  of  the  Wad 
Kseb  near  Mogador."' 

Satisfied  that  I  had  duly  impressed  my  companion 
with  the  result  of  my  earth-grubbing,  I  arose,  and, 
though  still  aching  and  skinless  about  the  knuckles, 
elbows,  and  knees,  hurried  back  to  camp. 

After  a  much-needed  wash  and  some  refreshment, 
we  struck  camp  shortly  after  mid-day,  to  the  disgust 
of  our  men,  who  did  not  understand  this  display  of 
energy,  especially  when  food  and  water  were  abundant, 
shade  refreshing,  and  no  danger  to  be  feared. 

The  day  was  by  no  means  a  pleasant  one  to  travel 
in,  there  being  not  a  breath  of  air,  while  the  sun  simply 
broiled  us  with  its  untempered  fervour.  "We  travelled 
north  along  the  base  of  the  mountain  to  where  the 
upper  plateau  edge  and  the  range  converged  to  form 
a  narrow  picturesque  defile,  to  re-diverge  again  in  a 
couple  of  miles,  where  we  entered  the  small  valley  of 
the  Wad  Ifiri,  draining  into  the  Tensift. 

We  camped  some  little  distance  from  the  zavia 
or  sanctuary  of  Sidi  bin  jNIahida,  where  the  criminal 
Hying  from  justice  may  find  protection  and  shelter. 
These  zawias,  sacred  as  the  burying-places  of  renowned 
saints,  are,  like  the  kuhas  of  the  saints  in  less  repute, 
scattered  all  over  the  country,  and  form  inviolable 
places  of  refuge,  where  neither  private  vengeance  nor 
the  hand  of  public  justice  can  intrude. 


io8  MOROCCO. 

The  evening  was  signalised  by  a  terrible  fight 
between  the  two  pilgrims,  Tlailj  Hamad  and  Hadj 
M'hamad,  which  only  ended  by  my  appearance  on  the 
scene  with  a  horse-whip. 

Next  morning  we  resumed  our  way,  crossing  the 
range  by  a  deep  depression  which  almost  cuts  it  in 
two,  the  northern  part  being  best  known  by  the  name 
of  Sidi  Lalkurat,  the  rival  saint  on  these  heights  to 
Sidi  Yakub.  Passing  down  a  picturesque  glen,  I  was 
careful  to  emphasise  my  geological  remarks  of  the 
previous  day  by  pointing  out  the  evidences  of  the 
volcanic  disturbance,  and  how  we  were  passing  away 
from  the  main  line  of  disturbance.  Numerous  salt 
springs  bubbled  forth  from  the  red  clays  Avhich  here 
cropped  out.  This  saliferous  water  is  collected  and 
evaporated  in  pans  specially  prepared,  and  supplies  the 
whole  district  with  salt.  Before  reaching  the  Tensift, 
our  men  and  soldiers  made  a  vigorous  attempt  to  get  us 
to  camp,  but  we  obdurately  insisted  on  crossing  to  the 
other  side  to  ensure  our  entry  into  Saffi  next  day. 

We  repassed  the  sanctuary  of  Sidi  Aissa,  and  fol- 
lowed the  southern  and  muddy  course  of  the  Tensift 
down  its  broad  valley  and  along  its  flat  fertile  plains, 
where  a  recent  flood  had  carried  devastation  into  the 
rich  barley-fields,  destroying  hundreds  of  acres. 

Early  in  the  afternoon  we  reached  a  ford  two  or 
three  miles  above  the  one  we  had  previously  crossed. 
It  looked  anything  but  promising,  and  for  a  time  it 
was  a  question  whether  we  had  not  better  camp  where 
we    were   in   the    hope   that   the  flood   would   subside. 


THROUGH  SIIIEDMA   TO  SAFFI.  1C9 

Eventually  it  was  deterniined  to  trust  to  the  arbitra- 
ment of  fate. 

I  was  the  first  to  attempt  the  crossing.  Mounting 
the  tall  horse  of  one  of  the  soldiers  in  preference  to 
my  own  little  Toby,  and  stripped  to  the  shirt,  I  plunged 
into  the  swift  stream,  one  naked  Moor  guiding  the 
horse,  and  leaving  me  nothing  to  do  but  hold  on, 
while  another  swam  alongside  ready  in  the  event  of 
accident.  At  the  first  plunge  the  horse  quite  dis- 
appeared, and  the  water  nearly  reached  my  waist. 
The  crowd  on  the  bank  filled  the  air  with  cries  of 
"  Allah  !  "  or  directions  to  the  swimming  man.  Fur  a 
moment  the  situation  looked  nasty,  the  rushing  water 
producing  in  me  a  momentary  giddiness.  After  a 
second  or  two  the  horse's  head  reappeared  with  a  snort, 
and  we  drifted  rapidly  down  the  stream.  Soon,  how- 
ever, the  horse  struck  ground,  and  then  wildly  plunged 
forward.  After  that  we  got  on  swimmingly,  partly  in 
the  literal  and  entirely  in  the  figurative  sense. 

Shortly  after  C.^B.,  bolder  than  I  was,  and  desirous 
of  showing  the  Moors  how  swimminsf  ougrht  to  be  done, 
dashed  into  the  flood  by  himself.  But  alas  for  the 
pride  and  the  arrogance  of  youth  !  He  soon  found  out 
that  he  had  altogether  miscalculated  the  force  of  the 
current,  and  he  drifted  down  the  stream  with  alarm- 
ing rapidity,  while  making  almost  no  headway  across. 
Fifty  voices  yelled  directions  in  Arabic.  The  soldiers, 
who  were  responsible  for  our  safety,  danced  about  in 
despair,  and  having  no  hair  on  their  heads,  tore  their 
beards.      A  score  and  more  of  swarthv  natives  dashed 


I  lo  MOROCCO. 

into  the  stream,  while  otliers  ran  along  the  bank  gesti- 
culating like  madmen. 

Happily  no  harm  came  of  it,  the  swimmer  being 
drifted  on  to  a  sandbank,  from  which  he  was  helped 
across  to  terra  firma  amid  a  circle  of  bronze-coloured 
Arabs.  I  am  not  quite  sure  that  it  struck  me  at  the 
time,  but  I  noted  in  my  diary  that,  with  his  white 
skin  and  smoothly-shaved  face,  he  looked  like  a  water- 
nymph  captured  by  a  band  of  swarthy  fauns  or  satyrs. 

The  most  exciting  incident,  however,  was  the  pas- 
sage of  one  of  the  soldiers.  In  some  fashion  or  other 
the  horse  he  bestrode  was  caught  by  the  swift  current 
and  rolled  over  and  over,  he  clinging  desperately  there- 
unto. Sometimes  a  man's  head  and  shoulders  would 
appear  above  water,  sometimes  four  horse's  legs  striking 
madly  out,  or  it  might  be  the  horse's  head,  with  wild, 
terror-stricken  eyeballs.  He  too,  however,  reached  the 
bank  in  safety.  A  mule  was  nearly  drowned,  and  some  of 
our  things  were  wetted,  but  no  worse  damage  happened. 

Nothing  was  more  applauded  than  the  way  our 
diminutive  donkey  Ali  took  to  the  water,  and,  assisted 
by  an  Arab,  swam  over.  Once  on  terra  firma,  he 
cocked  his  ears,  and  setting  his  bellows  a-working 
and  his  tail  a-wagging,  he  emitted  such  a  bray  of  exul- 
tant triumph  or  lusty  enjoyment  of  his  own  vigorous 
strength  as  made  the  welkin  ring,  and  roused  a  score  of 
answering  brays  from  neighbouring  duars  and  villages. 

It  took  us  three  hours  to  complete  the  fording  of 
the  river,  and  it  was  sunset  before  we  camped  for  the 
night  on  the  high  banks  some  distance  from  the  stream. 


THROUGH  SiniiDMA    TO  SAFFI.  in 

Next  morning-,  wliilc  ((iiickly  tlemolisliing  some 
Ijreakfast  before  starting  for  Saffi,  I  had  occasion  to 
remonstrate  sharply  with  our  man,  Abdul  Kader,  for 
allowing-  Selim,  the  camel-driver,  to  wash  some  dishes 
in  our  drinking--watcr.  lie  as  sharply  answered,  that 
it  was  not  true.  Whereupon,  assuming  paternal  autho- 
rity, I  slapped  him  in  the  face,  with  all  due  delibera- 
tion, as  one  doing  a  painful  duty  for  the  welfare  of 
the  one  castigated.  His  face  became  perfectly  ashy  in 
colour,  and  his  hand  sought  his  dagger.  It  was  not 
by  his  side.  All  the  men  had  seen  the  blow,  and  all 
alike  had  started  as  if  each  himself  had  received  it. 

There  was  a  moment  of  thunderstruck  silence.  Then 
Abdul  Kader,  finding  vent  to  his  choking  passion, 
poured  out  an  incoherent  torrent  of  Arabic,  English, 
and  Spanish  phrases.  I  did  not  strike  without  thought 
or  reason.  I  had  but  waited  for  this  opportunity  to 
finally  settle  the  exact  conditions  on  which  we  were  to 
travel  together.      My  time  had  come,  and  I  liad  acted. 

To  have  wavered  then  would  have  been  to  confess 
myself  beaten  and  afraid  uf"  tlieni.  No  notice  was 
taken  of  the  threats  of  vengeance  and  the  curses  of 
Abdul,  lie  had  his  excuse,  and  our  role  was  that  of 
absolute  indifference.  The  otber  men,  however,  were 
sternly  bidden  pack  up,  and  they  saw  that  in  our  ex- 
pression which  would  not  permit  of  rebellion. 

This,  then,  was  the  position  of  affairs  when  wo 
re-entered  Saffi  for  the  second  time,  to  seek  the  hospi- 
tality, the  assistance,  and  the  advice  of  Mi-.  II n not. 


(  112  ) 


CHAPTER  IX. 

SAFFI  TO  THE  CITY  OF  MOROCCO. 

The  net  result  of  our  first  essay  at  travel  in  Morocco 
was  far  from  encouraging. 

An  altogether  unexpected  class  of  difficulties  had 
presented  themselves.  We  had  looked  forward  to  the 
probability  of  strenuous  opposition  from  officials  and  a 
certain  amount  of  danger  from  the  mountaineers,  but 
we  had  not  foreseen  that  our  very  greatest  peril  would 
be  from  our  own  men.  To  have  to  fight  against  outside 
opposition  would  only  be  to  experience  an  added  zest 
to  travel,  but  to  know  that  there  was  treachery  in  the 
camp  was  to  be  utterly  paralysed.  For  the  first  time, 
as  I  reviewed  the  situation,  I  began  to  take  a  some- 
what gloomy  view.  At  the  very  threshold  of  our 
enterprise  our  men  had  shown  themselves  not  only 
insolent  and  disrespectful,  but  mutinous  and  intrac- 
table in  the  extreme.  They  had  joined  us  believing 
that  they  could  do  what  they  pleased  with  us,  and  find- 
ing out  their  mistake,  they  had  "  cut  up  rough." 

Never  in  all  ray  experience  of  travel  had  I  been 
subjected  to  so  many  petty  worries,  so  many  irritating 
and  maddening  annoyances.      Our  servants  had  acted 


SAFFI  TO  THE  CITY  OF  MOROCCO.  113 

on  the  principle  tliat  to  plunder  an  infidel  traveller 
was  to  perform  a  meritorious  act,  and  to  betray  him 
would  bo  secret  incense  to  Allah.  With  such  men  we 
could  not  hope  to  be  loved  ;  there  was  nothing  left 
but  to  make  ourselves  feared.  But  how  were  we  to  pur- 
chase their  iidelity — how  neutralise  hidden  treachery? 
and  worse  than  all,  how  were  we  to  overcome  the  dangers 
attendant  on  our  ignorance  of  the  language  ?  Already 
we  liad  fallen  foul  of  our  best  interpreter. 

We  would  willingly  have  dismissed  the  entire  band 
if  suitable  substitutes  could  have  been  got ;  but  none 
such  were  to  be  had  in  Saffi.  We  resolved  to  do  what 
we  could,  however,  in  that  way,  and  break  up  the  too 
united  gang  of  Mogador  men  by  introducing  antago- 
nistic elements.  Selim  the  camel-driver  and  Hamad 
the  muleteer  were  dismissed,  and  two  men  recom- 
mended by  ]\Ir.  Hunot  engaged  in  their  places.  All  the 
othersimmediately  asked  for  their  dismissal  also,  and  were 
of  course  refused.  They  swore  by  the  sacred  name  of 
Allah  that  they  would  not  go  with  us,  and  we  vowed 
by  the  beards  of  our  ancestors  that  they  would  either 
go,  or  the  dungeon  would  bo  their  portion,  where  they 
would  lie  and  rot  till  we  returned.  Finding  at  length 
that  we  wei'e  not  to  be  trilled  with,  and  that  ^Ir. 
Hunot  backed  us  up,  they  submitted  to  their  fate  with 
the  resignation  of  true  believers,  wondering,  however, 
what  terrible  sins  they  had  committed  that  Allah  had 
thus  doomed  them  to  be  dragged  at  the  heels  of  cursfd 
Nazarenes,  without  even  the  hope  of  plundering  tluMu. 

There   were   other    ehanges    required    besides  those 

H 


ri4  MOROCCO. 

among  the  men.  The  camel  had  proved  a  fraud,  and 
had  to  be  sold.  With  it  went  our  lively  little  donkey, 
whose  lusty  braying,  oi;t  of  all  proportion  to  his  size, 
had  given  us  many  a  hearty  laugh.  One  of  our  mules 
too  had  broken  down,  and  a  substitute  had  to  be 
bought. 

Altogether,  the  disparity  between  the  promise  of 
Mogador  and  the  realisation  at  Saffi  was  strikingly 
disagreeable. 

While  this  struggle  for  the  mastery  and  the  re- 
arrangement of  our  little  caravan  were  going  on,  we 
occasionally  tried  to  forget  our  cares  and  worries  by 
exploratory  strolls  through  the  town.  There  was  little 
to  be  seen  worthy  of  our  attention.  To  say  that  Saffi 
is  extremely  irregularly  built  in  a  compact  mass  of 
whitewashed  prison-like  houses  intersected  by  a  complex 
labyrinth  of  short  narrow  lanes  ;  that  to  the  stranger 
it  is  remarkable  for  the  filth  and  garbage  which  dis- 
figure it,  and  the  flies  and  pariah  dogs  which  infest  its 
every  corner,  is  only  to  recount  what  are  more  or  less 
the  familiar  features  of  most  Moorish  towns. 

The  one  sight  which  Saffi  possesses  worth  seeing  is 
the  old  palace  of  Mulai  bin  Abdullah,  a  Sultan  who 
reigned  in  the  middle  of  last  centurv,  and  made  him- 
self  memorable  by  marrying  an  Irishwoman,  by  whom 
he  had  a  son  called  Mulai  Ishmael,  the  bloodthirsty 
Nero  of  Morocco. 

The  palace  occupies  a  commanding  site  on  the  hill 
shoulder,  overlooking  the  town  and  near  the  eastern 
gate.      Outside  it  presents  the  appearance  of  an  enor- 


SAFl'I  TO  THE  CITY  OF  MOROCCO.  115 

mous  ngly  wintlowless  prison,  forming'  a  quadrangle  of 
plain  unornaraenteJ  and  unLrokeu  walls.  Inside,  how- 
ever, it  offers  more  varied  and  picturesque  features. 
Here  are  long  vaulted  and  dimly-lighted  corridors, 
opening  into  all  sorts  of  unexpected  nooks  and  myste- 
rious rooms ;  there,  grassy  courts  where  fountains 
have  splashed  among  beds  of  roses.      Here  are  still  to 


COURT   IN   PALACK,    SAFFI. 


be  seen  the  rooms  of  the  harem,  where,  unseen  them- 
selves, the  Sultan's  ladies  could  look  down  on  the  town 
sloping  seaward  ;  and  there  stands  still  the  colonnaded 
jiatio  of  the  Sultan,  from  which  open  his  audience- 
chamber  and  his  private  apartments,  all  beautified  by 
the  hand  of  the  artist  in  stucco  arabesque,  in  carved 
woodwork,  and  brilliant  painting,  the  delicate  tracing 


ii6  MOROCCO. 

and  lace-like  intricacy  of  tlic  designs  being  indescrib- 
able. 

At  the  back  of  the  palace  still  stands  a  Portuguese 
fort  and  bastion.  From  this  coign  of  vantage  we  can 
look  down  upon  the  massive  and  picturesque  ruins  of 
the  palace  and  the  gleaming  town  fanlike  spreading 
out  from  it.  As  we  trace  the  fine  sweep  of  the  bay, 
open  to  the  south-west,  we  can  easily  understand  why 
Saffi  is  the  most  dangerous  port  on  the  coast  in  the 
winter-time,  when  winds  from  that  quarter  prevail. 
As  easy  is  it  to  understand  how  Saffi  is  also  one  of  the 
hottest  towns  in  summer,  and  broils  under  a  tempera- 
ture from  I  5°  to  20''  higher  than  Mogador,  only  seventy 
miles  distant.  The  phenomenon  is  accounted  for  by 
the  line  of  heights  which  surround  the  bay  and  town, 
and  shelter  them  from  the  cool  northern  breezes  that 
temper  the  Moorish  summer. 

The  traveller  in  his  survey  will  not  fail  to  note  with 
some  curiosity  and  amusement  the  outer  line  of  defences, 
behind  which  the  good  Moslims  of  Saffi  sleep  with  an 
enviable  feeling  of  security.  It  is  formed  by  the  bones 
of  their  three  favourite  saints,  which  have  been  laid 
out  with  a  view  to  rendering  the  town  safe  against  the 
attacks  of  infidels  by  sea.  On  the  northern  side  of 
the  bay  gleams  the  Kuba  of  Sidi  Buzid,  and  on  the 
opposite  side  is  that  of  Sidi  Wasel,  while  Sidi  bin 
Muhammed  Sal  takes  the  town  under  his  more  im- 
mediate protection  seaward,  a  host  of  minor  saints 
keeping  watch  and  ward  on  the  landward  side.  Thus 
guarded,  the   IMoorish    inhabitants  can   afford  to  smile 


SAFFI  TO  rilF  CITY  OF  MOROCCO.  117 

with  a  sense  of  security  on  heaving  of"  naval  demonstra- 
tions "  or  rumours  of  war.      They  at  least  are  safe. 

On  the  19th  of  May  we  started  Ihuilly  for  the 
interior.  Very  different  were  the  feelings  with  which 
we  now  set  forth  from  those  with  which  we  left 
Mogador.  Then  we  hoped  everything ;  now,  though 
we  did  not  despair,  we  feared  everything.  Till  then 
we  had  only  seen  the  bright  side  of  the  picture,  now 
we  had  seen  the  other  also.  Turn  the  matter  over  as 
we  pleased,  we  could  find  no  satisfactory  answer  to  the 
question,  how  were  we  to  overcome  the  opposition  of 
our  men  when  they  knew  where  we  actually  desired 
to  go,  dependent  as  we  were  on  them  through  our 
ignorance  of  the  language  ?  All  that  was  in  our  power 
was  to  go  and  try — go  and  do  our  best. 

Our  first  niarcii  took  us  over  a  series  of  Immmocky 
elevations  and  curious  hollows,  such  as  we  had  remarked 
farther  north  as  being  cliaracterisf  ic  of  Dukalla,  and 
indications  of  an  upraised  sea-bed,  till  at  an  elevation 
of  about  700  feet  we  found  ourselves  on  the  first  step 
or  terrace  which  raises  the  traveller  to  the  plateau  of 
Southern  ^Morocco. 

Here  the  step  forms  a  wide  plain  stretching  in  low 
undulations,  till,  twelve  miles  eastward,  it  ends  at  the 
base  of  the  second  step,  which  rises  abruptly  like  a  low 
range  of  hills.  This  great  plain  was  one  almost  con- 
tinuous field  of  barley  in  various  stages  of  growth,  from 
the  absolutely  green  to  the  ripe  gold,  where  already 
busy  groups  of  reapers  were  at  work  cutting  off  the 
heads  of  the  sj^raiu  witli  sickles. 


ii8  MOROCCO. 

Some  gleaming  Kubas,  a  few  wretched  liainlets,  and 
the  usual  shapeless  pile  of  buildings  which  formed  the 
Kasbali  of  Kaid  bin  Tomna  of  South-Eastern  Abda, 
were  the  sole  other  features  we  were  called  upon  to 
remark. 

The  second  march  led  us  gradually  by  a  waterless 
defile  to  the  top  of  the  plateau,  at  a  height  of  1500 
feet,  to  find  the  same  monotonous  landscape  pre- 
sented to  our  view,  though  eastward  some  irregular 
hill  masses  limited  the  green  and  yellow  undulations. 
In  rising  from  the  lower  terrace  to  the  plateau,  we  had 
passed  from  the  Province  of  Abda  to  that  of  Bled 
Hummel,  from  the  raised  sea-bed  and  consolidated 
shell-sands  to  the  cretaceous  red  shales  and  sandstones 
which  have  given  this  district  its  name  of  the  "  Red 
Country  "  (Bled  Hummel).  We  camped  close  to  the 
Kasbah  of  the  Kaid,  not  far  from  the  small  salt  lake 
of  Zima,  which,  lying  in  a  shallow  hollow,  expands  and 
contracts  in  size  according  to  the  seasons.  It  is  fed 
by  a  number  of  saliferous  springs  which  rise  in  the 
red  shales.  By  the  evaporation  of  the  water  in  the  dry 
season  large  supplies  of  salt  are  obtained.  Near  Lake 
Zima  there  is  a  Kasbah  where  the  Sultan's  children  are 
reared  and  educated,  to  become  little  better  than  paupers 
on  the  death  of  their  father. 

Everywhere  we  are  called  upon  to  remark  the  won- 
derful fertility  of  these  wide  plains,  and  to  speculate  on 
the  population  they  might  feed,  if — if  only  the  rainfall 
could  be  depended  on  ;  but  in  that  if  lies  the  whole 
cpiestion.      The   rainfall    cannot   be   depended   on,  and 


SAFFI  TO  THE  CITY  OF  MOROCCO.  119 

many  are  the  harrowing  stories  of  the  periodic  fiiinines 
through  drought  which  the  traveller  hears  on  all  hands. 

Nothing,  however,  strikes  the  stranger  more  forcibly 
than  the  evidences  of  grinding  oppression  under  which 
the  inhabitants  groan.  The  half-starved,  weather- 
beaten,  and  scantily-clad  Arabs,  living  in  squalid, 
conical  thatched  huts,  arc  but  little  better  than  slaves, 
while  the  governors,  though  living  for  a  time  on  the 
fat  of  the  land,  with  well-stocked  harems,  and  sur- 
rounded by  numerous  slaves  and  soldiers,  their  stables 
filled  with  line  horses  and  mules,  their  pastures  rich  in 
Hocks  and  herds,  are  neither  more  nor  less  than  human 
leeches,  who  for  a  brief  season  are  allowed  to  suck  the 
life-blood  of  the  country,  till,  themselves  full  to  bursting, 
they  are  drained  by  a  more  powerful  blood-sucker. 

It  is  not,  however,  in  a  day,  or  a  week,  or  a  month 
that  any  adequate  notion  is  obtained  of  the  terrible 
system  of  tyranny  which  holds  the  country  in  its 
blighting  and  paralysing  clutches.  It  is  so  all-em- 
bracing, digs  so  deep  down,  and  spreads  in  so  many 
unexpected  ramifications,  that  the  actual  condition  of 
things  only  dawns  slowly  on  the  inquirer,  and  then  it 
seems  incredible  that  such  a  state  of  misgovernment 
can  exist  for  a  day. 

From  the  Kasbah  of  Bled  Hummel  we  ambled  on 
the  third  day  over  the  same  treeless  plain,  which  became, 
as  we  proceeded  eastward,  less  fertile  and  consequently 
less  cultivated.  Gradually,  too,  as  we  approached  the 
mountains  or  Ilahamna,  which  for  two  days  we  had  seen 
looming  up  before  us,  the  country  began  to  belie  its 


I20  MOROCCO. 

name  of  "  red."  The  soil  became  more  sandy  and  of 
lighter  colour,  which  we  speedily  discovered  to  be  due 
to  a  change  of  the  geological  formation  from  cretaceous 
shale  to  friable  metamorphic  rocks. 

Towards  mid-day  we  found  ourselves  in  the  small 
but  lately  created  district  of  the  Ulad  Dlim,  a  tribe 
of  Arabs  brought  from  near  Wad  Nun  to  act  as  a 
buffer  between  the  inimical  clans  of  Bled  Hummel  and 
llahamna,  as  well  as  to  ensure  the  safety  of  travellers 
from  the  attacks  of  robbers,  who  infested  the  neighbour- 
ing mountains.  The  women  of  the  Ulad  Dlim  were 
distinguished  by  their  wearing  dark-blue  cotton 
dresses. 

From  Ulad  Dlim  we  had  proposed  to  strike  away 
from  the  main  road  to  Morocco,  which  so  far  we  had 
followed,  and  proceed  straight  through  Rahamna  and 
Srarna  to  Demnat.  Our  chief  reason  for  avoiding  the 
former  city  was  our  fear  of  being  taken  too  much  care 
of  by  the  authorities  there,  and  saddled  with  soldiers 
Avho  would  see  that  we  did  not  diverge  from  the  fre- 
quented and  safe  routes. 

"With  one  accord,  however,  not  only  our  own  men, 
but  the  people  of  the  place  declared  that  the  route 
was  dangerous  at  present,  and  that  a  safer  route  was 
to  be  found  some  distance  farther  ahead.  With  some 
reluctance  and  doubts,  we  submitted  to  their  ai'gu- 
ments,  and  agreed  to  follow  their  road. 

At  dawn  on  the  22nd,  with  the  usual  amount  of 
trouble  and  worry,  I  got  the  men  turned  out  from  their 
tent,  after  their  nis-ht  of  irorcjinof  and   kief-smoking. 


SAFFI   TO  Til  P.   CITY  OF  MOROCCO.  121 

Like  so  many  iloj^'s,  tliey  suarled  and  ([uarrelled  among 
tliemselves  over  the  loading  oi"  the  mules. 

As  the  suu  rose  wo  moved  out  of  camp,  feeling  it 
deliciously  cool  in  the  fresh  morning  air.  We  soon 
reached  the  end  of  the  great  plain  we  had  travelled  over 
for  two  days,  and  entered  a  series  of  very  rocky,  rugged 
hills,  which  run  into  peaks  and  pyramids  and  a  pictu- 


II.    CUitUTDN-DHOWN-p. 


resque  variety  of  other  forms,  having  a  general  N.N.E. 
and  S.S.W.  treiul,  agreeing  with  the  strike  of  tlie 
almost  vertical  metamorphic  clay  slates. 

After  marching  some  three  liours  over  rocky  passes, 
and  up  and  down  irregular,  desolate,  uninhabited  de- 
files, we  entered  a  more  even  country,  though  here  and 
there,  to  right  and   left,  rose  up  sharp  ridges  of  bare 


122  .  MOROCCO. 

jagged  rock,  which,  if  they  served  to  add  to  the  scenic 
effects,  also  helped  to  accentuate  the  air  of  grey  barren- 
ness and  desolation  which  brooded  over  the  landscape. 
All  morning  our  route  had  trended  suspiciously  to  the 
south,  and  the  gravest  doubts  passed  through  my  mind 
as  to  the  existence  of  the  second  route  to  Demnat,  and 
more  than  once  we  blamed  ourselves  for  not  having 
kept  to  our  original  intentions. 

All  doubts  as  to  our  situation  were  speedily  set  at 
rest  when,  turning  the  shoulder  of  a  hill,  the  Atlas 
range,  the  plain  of  Morocco,  and  the  city  itself  burst 
upon  our  view. 

For  the  moment  we  heeded  not  the  features  of  the 
magnificent  scene.  We  were  too  much  possessed  with 
a  voiceless  rage  and  an  almost  overpowering  feeling 
akin  to  despair  as  we  thought  how  helpless  we  were 
and  how  thoroughly  we  had  been  tricked.  Were  Ave 
also  fated  to  come,  like  so  many  travellers  who  had  pre- 
ceded us,  to  the  foot  of  that  great  chain,  to  be  permitted 
to  look  and  long,  and,  like  them,  be  sent  wa}'  baffled  ? 

There  was  no  use,  however,  anticipating  disaster. 
We  had  got  an  unpleasant  taste  of  the  quality  of  the 
enemy — that  was  all. 

As  the  first  acute  feeling  of  disgust  toned  down, 
and  we  resigned  ourselves  with  the  best  grace  at  our 
command,  we  began  to  look  around  us  and  forget  our 
disappointments  in  the  engrossing  elements  of  the 
landscape. 

For  the  first  time  we  saw  the  Atlas  before  us  in  all 
its  kingly  elevation. 


SAI-FI  TO  THE  CITY  OF  MOROCCO.  123 

llitlierto  we  had  only  gut  glimpses  of  its  higher 
peaks,  hut  now  the  eye  roamed  from  its  dark  bush  and 
forest-clad  base  over  its  lower  ranges  to  the  snowy 
masses  which  broke  through  the  grey  fleecy  clouds  that 
here  and  there  softly  swathed  its  upper  zones,  and 
above  them  gleamed  in  dazzling  whiteness  against  the 
blue  sky,  seemingly  not  of  the  gross  earth  at  all. 

Tlius  snow-clad  in  its  higher  altitude,  the  Atlas 
presented  less  of  the  even  outline  we  had  been  accus- 
tomed to  picture.  There  were  many  prominent  peaks 
which  stood  out  in  sharp  relief,  especially  over  Misfiwa 
and  Glauwa,  but  also  towards  Reraya  and  the  Wad 
Nyfis. 

From  where  we  stood  the  range  seemed  to  rise  with 
extreme  abruptness,  dominating  the  plain  with  a  frown- 
ing grandeur  not  noticeable  on  nearer  approach,  where 
the  rise  is  seen  to  be  more  gradual  and  the  central 
crest  far  indeed  from  overlooking  the  plain,  or  even  its 
lower  ranges. 

We  could  well  have  spent  longer  studying  the 
physical  features  of  this  goal  of  our  daydreams,  but 
time  was  precious,  and  we  turned  to  sweep  our  eyes 
over  the  great  plain  which  lay  between  us  and  the 
mountains.  There  was  but  one  feature  to  rivet  our 
attention,  and  that  was  a  great  tower  which  rose  from 
a  dark  mass  of  brown  and  green,  like  a  lighthouse  on 
a  rock  at  sea.  We  did  not  require  to  be  told  that  this 
was  the  tower  or  minaret  of  the  Kutubia,  the  one 
striking  monument  which  Southern  Morocco  possesses 
to  tell  of  the  former  greatness  of  the  empire  and  its 


124  MOROCCO. 

present  degeneracy.  Around  the  Kutuhia  we  had  no 
difficulty  in  distinguisliing  the  walls  and  houses,  the 
gardens  and  date-groves,  that  composed  or  encircled 
the  city  of  Morocco.  Of  the  plain  itself  little  need  be 
said.  Bounded  by  the  mountains,  it  seemed  but  a 
narrow  strip  of  green  and  yellow,  through  which  the 
river  Tensift  and  its  many  tributaries  meandered  sea- 
ward, conspicuous  lines  of  dark  green  in  their  shading 
of  olive  and  date.  Here  and  there  dark  patches  told 
of  fruit-yielding  groves  and  of  inhabitants,  and  Kubas 
showed  where  holy  men  were  buried,  though  yet  living 
to  make  intercession  for  those  who  believed.  South- 
ward the  view  was  lost  in  hazy  distance,  and  north  it 
was  cut  off  by  the  broken  heights  of  Rahamna  and  an 
isolated  hill  which  lay  in  front  of  us. 

Having  completed  our  survey,  we  had  still  to  con- 
sider what  we  would  do.  Would  we  go  back  and  pick 
up  the  right  road,  or  go  forward  to  the  city  and  stand 
our  chance  of  the  extra  obstacles  and  dangers  to  our 
progress  there  likely  to  be  met  ? 

We  elected,  though  with  gloomy  forebodings,  to  do 
the  latter. 

By  way  of  putting  our  men  to  an  actual  test,  to  see 
how  far  we  could  depend  upon  them,  we  suddenly  left 
the  road  and  ordered  them  to  follow  us.  Not  a  soul 
moved  one  step.  They  stolidly  sat  on  their  mules  and 
watched  us  pushing  our  way  across  country.  On  and 
on  we  went,  yet  there  they  remained.  We  lost  sight 
of  them  at  last,  and  yet  we  persisted  in  our  experi- 
ment.     It  was  well   to  know  the  worst.      More  than 


SAl'FI  TO  THE  CITY  OF  MOROCCO.  125 

one  frroup  of  harvesters  and  solitary  berdsinau  were 
startled  by  the  unwonted  apparition  of  two  Europeans 
unattended  by  soldiers  or  natives.  It  might  have  gone 
hard  with  us,  but  the  very  impunity  of  our  movements 
was  our  chief  safety,  and  doubtless  we  were  supposed 
to  be  the  Sultan's  European  Kaids. 

From  the  crest  of  a  ridge  we  again  got  a  sight  of 
our  rebellious  men.  To  our  delight  they  were  on  the 
move  and  apparently  after  us.  That  illusion  was  soon 
dissipated.  They  were  on  the  move  indeed,  not  towards 
us,  however,  but  towards  Morocco.  They  had  determined 
to  take  their  own  way  and  leave  us  to  take  ours,  and 
to  experience  whatever  fate  had  in  store  for  us. 
Clearly  we  were  utterly  and  cruelly  defeated. 

Thus  baffled  and  disappointed,  with  almost  the  last 
hope  of  getting  into  the  mountains  crushed  out  of  us, 
there  was  nothing  for  it  but  to  return  to  the  road. 
We  soon  picked  up  the  men  plodding  doggedly  town- 
wards.  It  was  no  use  to  storm  and  rage  or  to  threaten 
vengeance  ;  all  would  alike  have  been  in  vain.  So  in  a 
sullen  line  we  trudged  on  under  a  sweltering  heat, 
the  Kutubia  growing  at  each  mile  more  imposing, 
and  the  half-hidden  walls  and  buildings  of  the  city 
showing  up  more  and  more  from  among  Ihoir  shady 
gardens  and  groves. 

At  last  we  rounded  the  isolated  hill  which  lies  to 
the  north  of  the  Tensift,  and  speedily  reached  the 
banks  of  the  latter.  We  entered  the  picturesque 
date  grove  which  encircles  the  northern  aspect  of  tlie 
town,  and  crossed  the  river  by  a  bridge  (El  Kantra)  of 


126  MOROCCO. 

some  twenty  arches,  falling  rapidly  into  disrepair.  A 
broad  road  led  us  through  a  succession  of  rich  gardens 
of  dates,  olives,  oranges,  pomegranates,  &c.,  but  we 
had  eyes  for  none  of  thetn.  We  rode  along  like  men 
who  had  lost  their  freedom  or  prisoners  being  dragged 
unwillingly  into  the  town.  What  mattered  to  us  the 
beauty  of  the  gardens,  the  pleasant  twitter  of  the  birds 
in  the  trees,  the  animated  succession  of  quaint  scenes 
which  greeted  our  every  step,  or  the  life  and  bustle 
which  told  of  our  approach  to  a  large  and  busy  city. 

At  length,  about  three  in  the  afternoon,  after  having 
been  ten  hours  in  the  saddle,  the  battlemented  gate- 
way of  Morocco  loomed  up  before  us.  A  few  minutes 
more  and  we  had  entered  the  city.  We  passively  fol- 
lowed our  soldiers  through  narrow  crowded  lanes,  till, 
reaching  a  half-ruined  house,  we  were  told  that  this 
was  the  governor's  residence. 

The  Sultan's  letter  was  sent  in  while  we  waited  out- 
side. A  messenger  soon  returned  with  the  windy 
welcomes  of  his  lord,  who,  with  a  boundless  hospitality, 
placed  himself  and  all  that  he  possessed  at  our  dis- 
posal. 

We  mustered  up  sufficient  interest  in  what  was  being 
said  to  answer  with  becoming  politeness,  and  then 
mechanically  followed  our  new  guide  as  he  led  us  back 
through  more  winding  lanes  to  the  house  and  garden 
prepared  for  us.  For  the  moment,  however,  we  were 
equally  indifferent  to  what  we  passed  through  or  where 
we  found  shelter.  Our  thoughts  were  in  the  Atlas, 
where  we  feared  our  feet  would  never  be. 


(       127      ) 


CirAITEU   X. 

MARAKSII,  OR  CITY  OF  MOROCCO. 

^^'I  TH  iiiglit  and  a  good  sleep  came  renewed  encourage- 
ment and  revived  hopes.  We  were  slightly  scotched, 
but  by  no  means  killed.  The  morning  sun  and  our  san- 
guine dispositions  soon  added  a  golden  fringe  to  the 
dark  storm-cloud  which  hud  temporarily  enveloped  us, 
and  we  pictured  it  widening  out  and  out  till  the  dark- 
ness was  no  more,  and  there  remained  only  the  golden 
glow  of  success.  We  had  stumbled  once,  but  it  did  not 
follow  that  our  next  move  would  be  over  a  precipice. 
In  any  case,  we  were  resolved  not  to  succumb  to  antici- 
pated difficulties  till  we  had  tramped  right  on  to  meet 
them,  and  fairly  measured  our  strength  against  them. 

It  was  in  this  cheerful  mood  that  the  morning  of  the 
23rd  May  broke  upon  us  with  its  summer  brightness. 
We  had  little  to  grumble  at  in  the  matter  of  quarters. 
We  were  comfortably  installed  in  a  vaulted,  oblong 
room,  whose  whitewashed  walls  were  ornamented  with 
simple  upper  and  lower  dados  in  red  and  blue.  Outside 
a  loggia  or  verandah,  supported  on  pillars,  gave  further 
shade  and  protection  from  the  burning  summer  sun 
and  winter   rains.      Here  we  could   sit   and   drink   our 


128  MOROCCO. 

morning  coffee,  while,  otherwise  unchecked,  the  cool 
morning  breezes  came  to  iis  filtered  through  the  vine- 
clad  arcade  that  led  into  the  garden.  This  latter,  too, 
was  no  mean  addition  to  the  amenities  of  our  situation, 
for  after  the  treeless  plains  of  Abda  and  Bled  Hummel 
it  was  refreshing  to  let  the  eye  rest  on  fig  and  pome- 
granate, olive  and  apricot,  under  whose  protecting  shade 
grew  roses  and  jasmine,  sweet  violets,  and  a  profusion 
of  other  flowers,  adding  colour  to  the  scene  and  pleas- 
ing perfume  to  the  air. 

In  this  charming  retreat  we  were  thoroughly  shut 
off  from  the  outside  world  by  a  high  blank  wall  which 
surrounded  the  garden ;  so  thoroughly  shut  off,  in  fact, 
that,  for  anything  we  saw  or  heard,  we  might  have 
been  anywhere  but  in  the  heart  of  a  city  with  throng- 
ing thousands. 

As  we  sated  our  eyes  on  our  surroundings,  and 
noticed  with  no  great  relish  the  care  taken  of  our 
person  by  the  Kaid,  as  shown  in  the  numerous  soldiers 
who  kept  watch  and  ward  over  every  door  and  corner 
of  the  place,  we  could  not  but  admit  that  this  was  by 
no  means  a  disagreeable  variation  in  our  life. 

Under  the  circumstances  we  did  our  best  to  rise  to 
the  situation  and  receive  our  visitors  with  the  courtesy 
and  dignity  expected  of  those  who  travelled  under  the 
protection  of  the  Sultan.  We  first  gave  audience  to 
the  chamberlain  of  the  Kaid,  who  bubbled  over  with 
renewed  welcomes  on  the  part  of  his  master,  while  we 
tried  to  keep  pace  with  him  in  thanks  and  hopes  that 
Allah  would   bless   and   reward  him   accordinof  to  his 


MARAKSII,  OR  CITY  OF  MOROCCO.  129 

deserts.  The  Kaid,  however,  did  not  merely  send 
coniplimentary  phrases.  These  were  substantially 
backed  up  by  an  abundant  uiona.  There  were  men 
bearing  from  him  sheep  and  fowls,  loaves  of  sugar  and 
green  tea,  great  bowls  of  milk,  and  baskets  of  oranges 
and  dates.  Eggs,  too,  there  were,  and  vegetables,  with 
huge  dishes  of  cooked  food  for  the  men,  and  abundance 
of  barley  and  straw  for  the  horses  and  mules. 

Everything  was  in  proportion  to  the  Kaid's  dignity, 
not  to  our  actual  wants,  for  there  was  suflicient  to 
have  fed  lifty  meu. 

We  were  careful  to  preserve  a  stolid  demeanour,  as 
if  this  was  only  what  we  had  a  right  to  expect,  con- 
sidering our  social  status. 

Our  morning's  levee  over,  we  were  anxious  to  hurry 
off  to  explore  the  town. 

Our  hopes  were  high  of  seeing  something  to  instruct 
and  delight  us ;  for  was  not  Morocco  a  city  with  a 
history,  a  city  which  luxd  been  the  residence  of  sultans, 
and  the  theatre  of  civil  wars  and  sieges  !  Its  very 
name — the  City  of  Morocco — threw  a  glamour  over  it, 
and  connected  it  with  all  the  past  glories  of  the  Empire 
and  its  achievements  in  war,  in  arts,  and  science. 

We  would  willingly  have  started  oti'  on  our  explora- 
tion attended  by  only  a  guide,  but  our  guards  would 
not  hear  of  it.  We  must  go  with  all  the  pomp  ami 
circumstance  of  great  men.  "We  therefore  reluctantly 
sallied  forth  on  horseback,  with  one  or  two  of  our  ser- 
vants on  mules,  while  several  soldiers  ran  ahead  of 
us,  and,  with  resounding  cries  of  "  Balak  !  Balak  !  " 

I 


I30  MOROCCO. 

(beware),  followed  by  a  push  aud  a  blow  if  necessary, 
demanded,  in  God's  name,  passage  for  the  ^^  Aimsera" 
fCliri^tians).  The  passage  was,  of  course,  given,  but 
often  with  scowling  faces  and  cursing  hearts. 

To  know,  however,  that  we  were  being  consigned  to 
Gehenna  on  all  sides,  aud  that  few  there  were  among 
those  whom  we  saw  who  would  not  have  willingly  put 
a  dagger  in  our  hearts,  if  they  could  have  done  so 
with  impunity,  only  gave  an  added  piquancy  to  our 
ride. 

Our  first  impressions  of  the  city  of  Morocco — this 
southern  capital  of  a  once  glorious  empire — were  those 
of  unmixed  disappointment.  As  we  wandered  through 
street  after  street  and  lane  after  lane  enclosed  by  clay- 
built  walls  and  houses  of  meanest  aspect,  we  saw  much 
indeed  of  the  "  havoc,"  but  very  little  of  the  "  splendour 
of  the  East."  At  every  step  we  found  evidence  of  a 
nation  on  a  down-grade  slide,  of  a  people  who  had  lost 
all  earthly  hopes  and  aspirations,  and  lived  under  the 
most  grinding  oppression  and  tyranny.  Morocco  was 
a  city  grown  slattern,  ver}'  much  out  at  the  elbows, 
and  utterly  careless  of  its  personal  appearance.  And 
yet,  as  we  persevered  in  our  exploration,  and  got  rid 
of  our  preconceived  notions,  with  all  its  air  of  dilapida- 
tion the  city  again  began  to  grow  upon  us.  In  the 
most  unexpected  places,  often  midst  tumbling  ruins 
and  all  the  signs  of  rapid  decay,  we  were  continually 
attracted  by  a  group  of  palms  or  the  sight  of  some 
interesting  example  of  Moorish  workmanship. 

Here    it    was   a   fountain   on   which    the   artist   had 


FOUNTAIN     IN     MOROCCO. 


\ 


« 


B 


m. 


132 


MOROCCO. 


allurements  of  the  sex  to  match.  Not  least  attractiv^e. 
were  the  substantial  city  men  of  ]\[orocco  mounted 
on  quick-pacing  mules,  or  the  Government  officials  on 
gorgeously  caparisoned  and    prancing  barbs,  while  the 


JIOOKISH    GIRL. 


weather-beaten  Berbers  from  the  Atlas,  the  gaunt, 
fierce-eyed  Arabs  from  Sus  and  the  desert,  and  the 
shrinking  money-grabbing  Jew,  all  formed  effective 
elements  in  the  scene. 


MARAKSII,  OR  CITY  OF  MOROCCO.  133 

It  was  in  the  purely  business  parts  of  tlie  town, 
however,  tliat  we  found  most  to  admire.  Motley 
throngs  of  buyers  and  sellers,  busy  workmen  and  idle 
wayfarers,  crowded  the  narrow  thoroughfares,  and,  with 
the  quaint  box-like  shops  on  either  side,  formed  an 
exhaustless  vista  of  picturesque  scenes.  On  these, 
however,  it  is  not  my  intention  to  dwell.  Later  on 
we  shall  once  more  wander  through  the  streets,  and  at 
our  leisure  see  what  there  is  to  be  seen,  and  linger 
over  what  is  worthy  of  attention  and  admiration.  We 
can  neither  see  nor  linger  with  satisfaction  while  the 
Atlas  ]\ronntains  loom  np  largely  in  the  distance,  and 
there  is  still  a  doubt  whether  we  shall  penetrate  their 
unexplored  valleys  or  climb  their  snow-clad  heights. 
When  these  doubts  have  perished  and  those  feats 
been  accom])lished,  we  shall  be  able  to  do  the  sights 
and  scenes  of  the  city  of  IMorocco  some  justice. 

Our  situation  at  this  time  was  indeed  sufliciently 
puzzling.  The  danger  we  ran  from  the  evil  machina- 
tions of  our  men  was  now  more  than  ever  apparent, 
and  consequently  the  necessity  of  keeping  them  as 
ignorant  as  possible  of  our  movements  more  important. 
Happily  during  the  four  days  we  spent  in  Morocco 
several  things  occurred  which  gave  us  great  assistance 
and  did  much  to  revive  our  liopes.  First  we  found  a 
Ciibraltarian  named  IJonich,  who  in  the  most  generous 
fasliion  placed  his  services  as  interpreter  at  our  disposal 
while  we  remained  in  the  city.  This  rendered  us 
independent  of  our  men  for  the  moment,  and  enabled 
us  to  make  very  necessary  in(juiries  about  routes  and 


134  MOROCCO. 

passes,  without  wliicli  we  would  only  have  lloundercJ 
in  the  dark. 

"Allien,  in  addition,  a  mountain  Jew  arrived  from  SafR 
to  join  us,  credited  by  Mr.  Hunot  with  courage, 
fidelity,  intelligence,  and  above  all,  with  a  most  in- 
timate acquaintance  with  the  mountains  and  their 
inhabitants.  This  seemed  an  almost  incredible  prize ; 
but  we  were  not  long  in  discovering  that  Mr.  Hunot 
had  not  overrated  him,  and  that  he  at  least  would  not 
fail  us.  There  was  but  one  terrible  drawback — we 
could  not  converse  with  each  other,  and  therefore  half 
his  usefulness  was  destroyed. 

One  other  circumstance  there  was  which  gave  us  un- 
alloyed pleasure  and  encouragement.  We  were  not,  as 
we  had  at  first  believed,  the  guests  of  the  Kaid  of  the 
town,  but  of  a  powerful  enemy  of  his,  the  Kaid  of 
Ilahamna.  This  was  a  very  important  fact,  as  we  now 
felt  sure  that  we  should  have  but  little  difficulty  in 
slipping  away  from  ^Morocco  without  an  escort  of 
soldiers,  which  we  dreaded  excessively,  as  likely  to 
put  a  climax  to  our  difficulties. 

Our  great  object  at  this  time  was  to  obtain,  first,  the 
mastery  of  our  men  in  some  way  or  other,  and  second, 
as  thorough  an  acquaintance  with  the  mountain  routes 
and  governors  as  possible,  so  as  to  avoid  awakening 
suspicions  by  having  to  make  inquiries  in  the  neigh- 
bourhoods selected  for  exploration.  We  must  enter 
these  mountain  fastnesses,  we  foresaw,  as  men  know- 
ing exactly  where  they  wanted  to  go,  and  as  having 
absolute  authority  to  go  whithersoever  they  pleased. 


MARAKSH,  OR  CITY  OF  MOROCCO.  135 

Everytliing  consulered,  we  still  deemed  it  expedient 
to  keep  to  our  original  intentions  and  proceed  to 
Demnat,  where  we  would  make  our  first  essays  at 
mountaineering,  and  generally  feel  our  way. 

The  first  news  that  greeted  us  on  the  morning  of 
the  27th  ^fay  was  that  El  ITadj  TTamad  from  Casa- 
blanca had  deserted,  taking  with  him  one  or  two 
loaves  of  sugar  and  some  green  tea,  to  console  him 
while  he  hid  from  our  vengeance. 

We  would  not  have  troubled  much  about  him,  as 
he  had  been  an  unmitigated  nuisance  to  ourselves  and 
our  men,  with  whom  he  incessantly  waged  war,  but 
then  wo  knew  that  one  or  two  of  the  others  were  quite 
as  anxious  to  quit  our  service,  and  it  was  necessary  to 
show  that  such  things  could  not  be  done  with  im- 
punity. Consequently  we  set  all  the  machinery  of 
the  place  at  work  to  capture  him,  and  we  vowed  that 
he  should  lie  in  prison  till  wo  had  done  with  our 
travels.  The  men  were  very  much  impressed  by  our 
energy  and  our  seeming  determination  to  have  the  last 
drop  of  his  blood.  Some  days  later  we  strained  our 
conscience  to  a  considerable  extent,  and  led  lliem  to 
believe  that  the  runaway  had  been  caught  and  lodged 
in  chains. 

The  truth  was,  the  rival  jealousies  of  Bin  Daoud,  the 
governor  of  the  town,  and  of  Abdul  Ham  id.  Kaid  of 
Ivahamna,  left  Hadj  a  free  field.  Bin  Daoud's  men 
did  not  know  the  runaway,  and  Abdul  Ilaniid's  sol- 
diers would  have  no  dealings  with  them,  not  even  to 
the  extent  of  pointing  Iladj  out.      That  is  a  sample 


136  MOROCCO. 

of  the  working  of  the  machinery  of  Moorish  govern- 
ment. 

Owing  to  this  unlooked-for  occurrence,  it  was  two 
houi's  after  sunrise  before  we  left  Morocco.  Our  men 
had  been  kept  in  ignorance  of  our  movements  till 
the  last  moment,  to  prevent  them  breeding  mischief. 
Shalum  the  Jew  knew  the  road  to  Demnat,  therefore 
we  required  no  guide,  while,  to  show  that  we  travelled 
under  the  protection  of  the  Sharifian  umbrella,  we 
transformed  a  Safii  courier  into  a  Government  soldier 
by  the  simple  process  of  giving  him  the  high-peaked 
fez  which  distinguishes  the  soldier  from  the  civilian. 

As  we  passed  through  the  busy  streets,  we  were  in 
continual  apprehension  lest  we  should  be  stopped  by 
messengers,  or  find  soldiers  sent  after  us  to  watch  our 
movements  while  ostensibly  looking  after  our  safety. 
But  the  gate  was  reached  and  no  such  disaster  befell  us. 

Our  course  lay  almost  due  east,  at  first  through  the 
zone  of  well-watered  gardens  and  effective  groups  of 
olive  and  date,  which  spread  themselves  over  the 
gentle  slope  trending  to  the  Wad  Tensift.  We 
wonderinglv  noticed  how  the  whole  country  was  dotted 
over  with  mounds  of  earth,  mostly  in  lines  running 
at  all  sorts  of  angles.  On  examination,  these  were 
seen  to  be  formed  by  the  excavation  of  underground 
channels  for  the  conveyance  of  water  into  the  town 
and  to  the  various  gardens.  Along  these  lines  at 
intervals,  openings  had  been  made  to  the  surface  for 
the  easier  excavation  of  the  tunnels,  and  for  clearing 
them  out  in  the  event  of  their  becoming  choked  up. 


MARAKSH,  OR  CITY  OF  MOROCCO.  I37 

III  two  liours  wo  readied  the  point  of  junction  of 
three  consiJeral)le  sti-eatns,  still  swollen  liy  the  melting 
of  the  mountain  snow.  Those  were  the  Wad«  UriUa 
and  ]\Iisfiwa,  which  took  their  rise  in  the  central  axis 
of  the  chain,  while  tlie  tliird  gathered  its  waters  from 
the  lower  ranges  which  lie  between  the  two  rivers. 
Needless  to  say  these  mountain  torrents  form  the  chief 
tributaries  of  the  Tensift. 

Having  crossed  with  some  difficulty,  we  travelled 
over  a  more  sterile  tract,  undiversified  l)y  grove  and 
garden,  or  even  trees.  Tiie  surface  was  strewn  with 
large  water-borne  boulders. 

Some  time  after  mid-day  we  reached  the  base  of  the 
low  hills  of  j\risrnva,  but  could  see  nothing  of  the  higher 
zones  for  veiling  clouds,  though  more  than  once  a 
snow-clad  peak  or  crest  displayed  itself  in  its  supernal 
whiteness  above  the  grey  mists. 

We  now  continued  to  skirt  the  base  of  the  moun- 
tains, here  running  almost  due  east  and  west,  and  in 
the  precipitous  escarpments  we  were  able  to  dis- 
tinguish the  flaggy  red  sandstone  and  grey  and  white 
limestone  which  composed  their  lower  ranges. 

After  crossing  the  Wad  ^fasin  we  noticed  a  basaltic 
dyke  breaking  through  the  sedimentary  rocks,  a  fact 
not  altogether  unconnected  with  the  sudden  improve- 
ment in  the  fertility  of  the  soil  which  here  took 
place,  resulting  in  the  yield  of  enormous  crops  of 
barley. 

At  sunset  we  reached  the  noisy  torrent  of  the  Wail 
Gadat,  near  where  it  breaks  from  its  mountain  fastnesses, 


138  MOROCCO. 

and  asceiidini^  tlie  opposite  ridge,  winch  liere  hems  it 
in,  we  entered  the  dilapidated  town  of  Sidi  Rehal. 

We  did  not  seek  the  hospitality  of  the  Kaid  in  vain. 
In  a  few  minutes  the  guest  house  was  prepared,  and 
with  laudible  promptitude  green  tea  was  provided  to 
refresh  us  after  our  weary  ride.  1'lmt  night,  however, 
in  spite  of  a  twelve  hours'  fast,  we  nibbled  but  gingerly 
at  the  badly-cooked  food  sent  in  to  us  by  Hadj  M'hamad, 
and  forgot  the  vices  in  remembering  the  virtues  of 
our  late  cook,  Hadj  Hamad. 

From  Sidi  Rehal  the  traveller  commands  a  magnifi- 
cent view  of  the  Great  Plain  of  Morocco.  In  this  part 
are  enormous  fields  of  barley,  stretching  some  twenty 
miles  north  to  the  base  of  the  extremely  jagged  range 
of  peaks  which  compose  the  Jebelet  or  "  Little  Moun- 
tain "  of  Rahamna  and  Srarua — the  Atlas  being  imr 
excellence  the  Jebel,  though  sometimes  Jebel  Tilj  or 
Snow  Mountain.  Looking  west,  the  eye  finds  no 
boundary  except  in  the  haze  of  distance,  though  from 
the  neighbouring  heights  it  naturally  rests  upon  the 
tower  of  the  Kutubia,  which,  even  at  a  distance  of 
thirty  miles,  stands  forth  a  conspicuous  feature  in  the 
landscape,  and  a  perfect  godsend  to  the  traveller  as  a 
fixed  landmark  on  which  to  get  compass-bearings  for 
the  protraction  of  his  route. 

It  was  to  the  mountains,  however,  that  we  naturally 
turned  for  something  specially  noteworthy. 

Remembering  the  dominating  and  impressive  gran- 
deur of  the  view  they  present  when  seen  from  the 
Jebelet,  we  expected  that  nearer  approach  would  only 


.U.  I  AM  A'.SV/,  OR  CITY  OF  MOROCCO.  139 

add  to  tliat  LTaiideiir  and  impressiveness — tliat  we 
would  1)0  almost  overwhelmed  with  the  sensation  of" 
being  under  the  shadow  of  this  stupendous  moun- 
tain mass.  How  keen  then  was  our  disappointment 
when,  finding  ourselves  at  its  base,  we  sought  in  vain 
for  the  Atlas  of  the  distance  with  the  additional 
anticipated  effects  of  proximity.  Instead,  we  found 
ourselves  staring  up  at  a  series  of  by  no  means  pic- 
turesque low  ranges  of  mountains,  gently  sweeping  up 
some  two  or  three  thousand  feet  above  the  plain.  A 
limestone  escarpment  running  in  an  unbroken  line  along 
the  face  of  a  ridge,  a  gully  cutting  through  the  same, 
a  whitewashed  Kuba  on  a  hill-top,  and  a  Shellach  or 
Berber  village  clinging  to  its  side,  were  the  sole  sub- 
stitutes for  the  beetling  cliffs,  the  frowning  grandeur  of 
the  range,  and  the  snow-clad,  cloud-piercing  heights 
which  we  had  been  led  to  expect  from  the  distant  north. 

There  the  glittering  crest  had  dwarfed  all  else  ;  here 
the  minor  range  at  its  base  bulked  chiefly  in  view, 
making  it  difficult  for  us  to  realise  that  we  were  looking 
at  the  lower  undulations  of  a  great  earth-wave  which 
swept  up  to  elevations  of  13,000  and  14,000  feet. 

Up  the  glen  of  the  Gadat  and  over  the  shoulder  of 
the  heights  of  Misfiwa  we  did  indeed  get  glimpses  of 
the  highest  elevations,  1)ut  they  seemed  to  be  as  dis- 
tant as  when  we  saw  them  from  Jebelet,  only  infinitely 
less  striking  in  their  effect.  They  appeared  no  longer 
like  the  snow-capped  crest  of  an  enormous  precipice 
frowning  over  the  riant  plains,  but  only  the  last  of  a 
series  of  great  steps. 


(     MO     ) 


CHAPTER  XI. 

SIDI  REHAL  TO  DEM  NAT. 

On  prepai-ing  to  resume  our  marcli  next  morning,  we 
were  nearly  deprived  in  a  somewhat  violent  manner  of 
the  services  of  our  new  cook,  El  Hadj  M'hamad  of 
Mogador.  He  was  engaged  fixing  up  his  pack  all 
unconscious  of  the  fact  that  his  mule  and  C.-B.'s  hoi'se 
had  veered  round,  till,  stern  on,  they  stood  in  battle- 
array.  Of  this  fact,  however,  he  was  speedily  made 
awai'e  when,  passing  between  tlie  two  animals,  the 
horse  took  the  opportunit}^  of  violently  propelling  him 
against  the  rear  of  the  mule,  from  which  he  was  as 
promptly  hurled  back  and  landed  on  the  ground, 
doubled  up  and  groaning  vociferously  to  Allah  and 
Sidi  Abdul  Kader.  A  violent  commotion  was  the  re- 
sult. Horse  and  mule  were  driven  apart  with  blows  and 
curses.  Every  one  gathered  round  the  fallen  man,  but, 
marvellous  to  relate,  no  damaore  was  discovered,  thouarh 
throughout  the  day  he  never  ceased  to  groan,  and  at 
intervals  grunt  out  the  phrase  "  Ya  Allah  !  "  from  which 
he  seemed  to  derive  much  comfort. 

We  would   willingly   have   continued   our   way  with 
no  other  escort  than   our  improvised   soldier,  but  the 


Sim  RlillAL   TO  DEM  SAT.  141 

KuiJ  would  nut  IiL'ur  ui"  such  u  thing.  While  in  his 
territory  he  was  responsible  for  us,  and  he  could  not 
possibly  let  us  travel  thus  poorly  protected. 

We  had  no  particular  arguments  to  advance  against 
this,  and  as  we  had  no  reason  to  fear  any  obstruction 
as  far  as  Demnat,  we  submitted  without  demur  to 
the  addition  of  a  horseman  to  our  [)arty. 

Our  way  still  lay  due  east.  On  our  left  stretched 
the  great  plain,  gently  sloping  northward  to  the  bed 
of  the  Tensift.  On  our  right  the  primary  elevations 
of  the  Atlas  rose  in  rounded  masses,  sheltering  on 
their  slopes  numerous  Shellach  villages. 

There  was  but  little  to  attract  our  attention  in  the  wide 
landscape.  A  humble  wayfarer,  a  Jew  riding  towards 
Morocco  on  a  mule  or  an  ass,  long  lines  of  reapers  half- 
liiddeu  in  the  rich  fields  of  barley,  these  were  the  sole 
points  of  interest  on  the  lowlands  ;  while  the  featureless 
hills  only  showed,  besides  the  Berber  villages,  a  Kuba 
here  and  tliere,  and  breaking  through  the  limestone 
the  basalt  dyke  wliicli  we  had  noticed  farther  west  on 
the  previous  day. 

Thus  thrown  back  on  ourselves,  and  feeling  in  a 
hopeful  mood,  we  did  our  Ijcst  to  beguile  the  weary 
hours  with  attempts  to  utilise  our  Arabic  phrases  and 
add  others  to  our  list.  AVe  tenderly  inquired  after 
Hadj's  ribs,  and  cheerfully  conversed  about  the  cer- 
tainty of  the  runaway  cook  being  in  chains.  This 
view  of  the  situation  was  not  taken  quite  so  cheerfully 
by  our  men,  who  among  themselves  speculated  with  glum 
countenances  about  the  fate  of  their  late  companion. 


142  MOROCCO. 

In  about  an  liour  we  reached  a  place  called  Tezert, 
which  we  learned  was  the  residence  of  a  Sheik  of  the 
Kuid  of  Glauwa,  which  province  here  extends  as  a 
narrow  strip  into  the  plain,  cutting  that  of  Zemran 
nearly  in  two. 

We  took  careful  note  of  the  fact  that  a  route  led 
from  the  Sheik's  house  across  the  mountains  to  the 
Dra. 

In  three  hours  we  reached  the  Wad  Tessaout,  one 
of  the  chief  tributaries  of  the  river  we  had  crossed  at 
Azamor.  The  Tessaout  proved  to  be  a  violent  torrent 
running  in  a  deep  narrow  channel  cut  out  of  river 
debris,  the  size  of  the  blocks  being  more  suggestive  of 
ice  than  water  transport. 

We  crossed  by  a  ford  some  four  miles  from  the  hills, 
the  mules  having  to  be  unloaded  and  their  burdens 
carried  over  on  the  heads  of  countrymen,  Avho  make 
this  a  regular  business  during  the  winter  and  summer. 

Shortly  after  leaving  this  river  we  entered  the  pro- 
vince of  Srarna.  It  was  now  mid-day,  and  we  began 
to  be  sick  of  the  treeless  plain  and  the  many  reaches 
of  barley  crops.  The  sun  beat  down  with  overpower- 
ing ardour,  and  mules  and  horses  required  a  little  more 
urging  to  keep  them  moving  at  a  respectable  pace. 
Even  the  men  ceased  talking,  and  only  broke  the 
silence  by  an  encouraging  "  Arria,  arria  !  "  to  hurry  on 
their  animals. 

An  agreeable  relief  was  afforded  by  a  series  of  fine 
olive-groves  and  fruit-gardens  which  we  entered  some 
two  hours  from  the  river.     These  gardens  we  found  to 


SIDI  REIIAL  TO  DEM  NAT.  143 

be  watered  by  a  network  of  cbaniiels  lea'ling  from  tlie 
Wad  TediH. 

The  plain  imw  became  more  Ijrokcn  and  undulating 
as  well  as  better  wooded,  and  the  bordering  hills  also 
assumed  new  and  more  varied  features.  Here  and 
there  were  castellated  Sheik's  houses  crowning  promi- 
nent eminences  and  throwing  a  certain  warlike  charm 
over  the  country.  Geologically  we  were  struck  by  the 
curious  forms  into  which  the  limestones  were  broken 
and  contorted  by  the  intrusion  of  the  basalt  dyke,  which 
we  could  still  trace  in  places  on  the  hillside.  These 
sometimes  had  the  appearance  of  great  V's  and  W's. 

We  had  left  the  basin  of  the  Tensitt  on  reaching 
the  Tessaout,  and  we  could  now  see  to  the  north-east 
a  number  of  dark  lines  winding  thi-ough  the  plain, 
which  we  knew  were  other  streams  flowing  towards 
the  north-west,  to  coalesce  and  form  the  Um  er  Rebia. 
The  Jebelet  range  had  now  dwindled  down  to  a  few 
isolated  peaks,  while  ahead  of  us  the  mountain  masses 
of  the  Entifa  and  Tedla  broke  from  the  Atlas  and  closed 
up  the  great  plain  over  which  we  had  been  marching 
east  for  the  last  two  days. 

Towards  three  in  the  afternoon  we  beiran  to  divercre 
from  the  lowlands  and  Ibllow  a  nuile-path  over  more 
rugged  ground. 

At  length,  turning  the  shoulder  of  a  hill-spur,  we 
found,  to  our  inexpressible  relief,  the  valley  of  Dem- 
nat  opening  up  before  us  and  running  into  the  lower 
ranges  of  mountains. 

Our  path  becauie  more  and  move  rugged  and  difficult 


!44  MOROCCO. 

as  wc  pi'oceedeel.  AVo  crossed  deep  gullies,  so  steep  of 
slope  that  our  men  had  to  hang  on  to  the  tails  of  their 
mules  to  give  them  buck-weight  and  to  act  as  a  brake 
in  the  descent.  Even  more  difficult  was  the  ascent  of 
opposing  slopes,  up  which  the  animals  struggled  amid 
the  clamour  of  all  the  opprobrious  epithets  at  the 
command  of  the  muleteers,  accentuated  by  resounding 
blows. 

We  here  found  ourselves  among  some  familiar  trees, 
which  we  had  not  seen  since  we  left  the  coast.  Arar 
and  juniper  crowned  the  ridges  with  their  dark  resin- 
scented  foliage,  or  straggling  more  sparingly  down 
the  slopes,  mingled  with  holly-like  evergreen  oak.  Of 
lighter  hue  were  the  oleander  bushes  which  filled  the 
bottoms  of  the  gullies  and  gave  colour  to  the  scene. 

Gradually  we  got  past  this  nasty  section,  and  the 
sharp  ridges  gave  place  to  more  gentle  and  less  denuded 
slopes.  The  olive  cast  its  kindly  shade  on  grassy  banks 
where  Shellach  boys  watched  over  browsing  flocks  of 
sheep  and  goats,  or  stood  open-mouthed  to  stare  at  the 
strange  apparition  that  burst  upon  them  as  we  passed. 
Farther  on  gardens  began  to  appear  terraced  in  little 
squares,  and  near  them  stood  hamlets  built  of  red  earth, 
where  the  dogs  gave  us  a  noisy  greeting. 

Soon  the  bridle-path  became  a  veritable  arcade, 
arched  over  by  fruit-trees  and  walled  in  by  bush  and 
flower  and  creeper,  growing  to  right  and  left  with  all 
the  gipsy  grace,  wild  beauty,  and  prodigal  profusion 
of  the  tropics.  It  had  all  such  a  homelike  aspect, 
too,  for  the  pomegranates  and  the   figs  were   literally 


SIDI  REHAL  rO  DEM  SAT.  145 

smothered  under  the  <fluriou.s  wreaths  of  wihi-rose  and 
honeysuckle  which  broke  through  them  and  spread 
themselves  over  their  every  brand  1.  till  notliing  was 
seen  but  rich  masses  of  odoriferous  flowers.  Pleasant 
to  the  ear  also  was  the  unwonted  sound  of  running 
and  falling  water  murmuring  among  stones  or  rushing 
over  slopes  on  its  fertilising  mission. 

We  no  more  remembered  the  weary  hours  that  were 
past  nor  felt  the  burning  sun,  but  lingeringly  rode 
along  the  lane,  no  longer  dying  to  reach  our  destina- 
tion. We  had  but  little  farther  to  go.  A  few  more 
windings  and  turnings,  a  few  more  pleasant  peeps  of 
terraced  slopes,  of  banks  bright  with  many-hued  flowers, 
and  suddenly  we  found  ourselves  before  the  imposing 
fort-studded  walls  of  Demnat. 

We  passed  under  the  fortified  gateway,  and  all  the 
sweet  charms  of  nature  were  shut  out.  We  threaded 
garbage-strewn  streets  hemmed  in  by  mean  mud-built 
dwellinofs.  Filthv  Jews  stared  at  us  in  undisguised 
surprise,  and  ran  after  to  hear  who  we  were,  what  we 
wanted,  and  whither  we  were  going.  The  imposing 
gateway  of  the  Kasbah  or  quarter  of  the  governor 
was  at  length  reached,  and  we  halted  before  the  Kaid's 
house,  the  centre  of  an  eager  group  of  Jew  and  Moor 
and  Shollach.  The  soldiers  took  the  Sharifian  letter, 
and  proceeded  suitably  to  announce  the  arrival  of  such 
high  and  mighty  personages  as  ourselves. 

While  we  waited  the  return  of  the  messenger,  and 
congratulated  ourselves  on  our  safe  arrival  in  such  a 
beautiful  district,  we  were  suddenly  startled  by  a  clear 

K 


146  MOROCCO. 

"  Good  evening,  gentlemen,"  in  unmistakably  English 
tones.  Turning  in  surprise,  we  looked  for  the  speaker. 
We  could  see  no  one  to  whom  to  make  reply,  till  from 
among  the  crowd  of  Jews  we  were  again  saluted,  and 
distinguished  a  somewhat  short  and  fat  individual, 
with  features  different  from  those  around  him.  He 
wore  a  red  fez,  which  of  itself  showed  he  was  no 
ordinary  JNTorocco  Jew,  none  such  being  allowed  to 
wear  anything  but  a  black  cap  and  slippers.  We 
answered  him  with  a  very  genuine  cordiality,  as  the 
thought,  "  An  interpreter  at  last,"  flashed  across  our 
minds. 

We  soon  learned  that  we  were  sj^eaking  to  David 
Assor,  a  Cockney  Jew,  who,  by  the  fortuitous  concourse 
of  circumstances,  had  been  landed  in  these  parts,  where 
he  had  taken  to  himself  a  wife  and  had  now  been  estab- 
lished as  a  trader  for  many  years. 

While  we  talked  our  messenger  returned  to  say  that 
the  Kaid  was  asleep  and  could  not  be  disturbed,  where- 
upon we  stormed  and  demanded  who  the  Kaid  of 
Deninat  was  that  we,  the  British  bearers  of  Sharifian 
letters,  were  to  be  kept  waiting  at  his  gate  till  he  awoke. 
Let  him,  we  ordered,  be  apprised  forthwith  of  our  pre- 
sence, else  we  should  show  our  displeasure  by  leaving 
the  city  and  camping  outside. 

Our  fulmination  had  the  desired  effect,  and  soon  we 
received  messages  of  welcome,  and  were  convej^ed  to 
an  old  ruinous  building  containing  but  one  clean  and 
comfortable  apartment.  At  first  we  objected,  but 
finding  nothing  better  at  the  Kaid's  disposal,  we  finally 


SIDI  REIIAL  TO  DEM  NAT.  147 

took  possession  under  protest ;  and  after  all,  if  tliere 
were  nothing  else  to  commend  them,  our  quarters 
certainly  commanded  a  beautiful  view  over  a  finely- 
wooded  glen,  on  which  we  looked  down  from  an  airy 
height.  At  the  windows  we  could  enjoy  the  fresh 
exhilarating  breeze  sweeping  down  the  valley  from 
the  icy  elevations  of  the  Atlas,  which  in  the  distance 
peeped  over  the  green  and  grey  shoulders  of  the  lower 
ranges  of  the  foreofround. 

That  night  we  considered  ourselves  the  happiest  of 
mortals,  when,  over  a  cup  of  tea  and  a  biscuit,  we  were 
able  to  shut  out  our  men  from  our  councils,  and  with 
Assor  lay  plans  for  outwitting  not  only  them  but  the 
officials. 

As  for  our  new-found  friond,  we  rejoiced  his  heart 
and  stomach  with  such  delicacies  as  our  scanty  stores 
permitted,  and  to  which  he  had  been  long  a  stranger. 
We  also  recounted  for  his  benefit,  as  far  as  our  limited 
knowledge  went,  all  about  the  latest  monstrosities  that 
had  appeared  at  the  A(juarium  and  similar  resorts,  and 
told  him  how  fatter  women  and  more  brute-like  men, 
&c.,  than  had  been  known  in  his  day  had  astonished 
an  admiring  world. 

llemarkable  to  relate,  too,  we  discovered  that  we  had 
some  mutual  acquaintances.  He  knew  some  of  my  old 
Swahili  friends,  from  having  acted  as  interpreter  to  tlie 
Sultan  of  Zanzibar's  attendants  during  his  visit  to 
England. 

Next  morning,  feeling  in  a  lively  mood  of  added 
hopefulness,  we  thought  we  would  try  a  new  departure, 


148  MOROCCO. 

and  array  ourselves  in  all  the  picturesque  draperies  ot 
the  Moor  to  call  upon  the  Kaid. 

First,  we  drew  over  our  Nazarene  legs  the  serwal, 
the  cool,  baggfy,  linen  equivalents  of  the  trousers  we 
had  doffed,  and  which,  in  virtuous  Mohammedan  eyes, 
appear  as  far  from  decent  as  does  the  kilt  to  French- 
men. Over  these,  and  hanging  nearly  to  our  feet, 
came  the  chamir,  a  nightshirt-like  garment,  drawn 
round  the  neck  by  a  string.  Over  the  chamir  again 
we  drew  the  faraj'ia,  an  article  of  clothing  somewhat 
closely  resembling  the  former,  but  embroidered  in 
white  round  the  neck  and  down  the  breast. 

The  farajiciy  unlike  the  chamir,  opens  down  the  front 
a  certain  distance,  and  is  provided  with  numerous  soft 
buttons  fastening  into  loops,  the  despair  of  the  hasty 
Christian.  Both  of  these  upper  garments  are  of  linen, 
and  are  drawn  in  at  the  waist  by  a  belt  of  leather  em- 
broidered in  coloured  silks. 

We  required  the  assistance  and  guidance  of  our  men 
to  wind  the  ten  yards  of  the  creamy  liailc  around  our 
persons  so  as  to  fall  about  us  with  becoming  grace  and 
style.  The  fez,  turban,  and  slippers  completed  our  cloth- 
ing, though  we  had  further  to  supply  ourselves  with  a 
dagger  and  a  leather  bag,  without  which  no  Moor  is 
completely  equipped. 

We  now  sallied  forth,  doing  our  best  to  assume  the 
deportment  of  the  faithful,  at  any  rate  to  appear  to  be 
accustomed  to  this  sort  of  thing.  This,  however,  was 
not  very  easy,  for  somehow  or  other  the  haik  would  fall 
off  our  shoulders  or  get  entangled  among  our  feet.     The 


SI  1)1  REHAL  TO  DEMNAT.  149 

loose,  heclless  slippers  on  our  sockless  feet  were  another 
source  of  annoyance  to  betray  the  Kaffir  masquerading 
in  the  garments  of  the  true  believer.     Mine  more  than 


C.-B.    IN    MuOni.Sil    DHESS. 


once  by  unguarded  movements  left  my  feet  and  pre- 
ceded me  by  at  least  a  yard,  while  C.-B.,  trying  to  be 
more  careful,  left  his   behind    him.      To  make  matters 


ISO  MOROCCO. 

worse,  tlie  firm,  gritty  sand  soon  filled  tliera,  and 
rasped  and  rubbed  our  bare  feet  till  the  skin  came  off. 
Happily  no  native  presumed  to  laugh  at  us,  which 
would  have  been  the  crowning  annoyance  that  might 
have  led  to  explosions  of  wrath. 

Arrived  at  the  entrance-hall,  we  were  kept  waiting 
a  short  time  while  the  Kaid  made  ready  to  receive  us 
with  becoming  dignity. 

At  last  our  host  himself  appeared  to  do  us  special 
honour  by  receiving  us  in  person.  Quite  black  and 
bullet-headed,  Kaid  Jelleli  had  evidently  as  much  of 
the  Negro  as  the  Moor  in  him.  Courteously  touching 
our  hands  and  then  his  heart,  he  saluted  us  with  the 
phrase,  "  Marhababikum  "  ("  You  are  welcome  "),  to 
which  we  as  courteously  replied,  "  Baraka-lowfik " 
(''Many  thanks").  He  then  asked  various  civil  questions, 
whether  we  were  well  rested  after  the  fatigues  of  the 
journey,  whether  we  had  got  all  that  we  required,  &c., 
&c.;  to  all  of  which  we  contented  ourselves  with  reply- 
ing, "  Baraka-lowfik."  It  needed  the  more  pious  phrase, 
'•'  El  Hamdu-lillah!"  ("  Praise  God  !  ")  fitly  to  respond  to 
his  inquiry  if  our  health  were  good  ;  which  having  duly 
and  earnestly  ejaculated,  we  left  him  to  understand  by 
our  tone  and  appearance  what  we  could  not  find  words 
to  express. 

The  salaam  and  compliments  over,  we  proceeded  to 
the  inner  apartments.  Having  prematurely  put  off 
my  slippers,  I  had  to  return  to  fetch  them,  and  in  my 
haste  to  regain  my  companions  I  more  than  once  sent 
my    slippers    ahead    of  me    or    left   them   behind  me, 


SIDI  REIIAL  TO  DEMNAT.  151 

greatly  to  the  delight  of  some  Negro  boys  who  watched 
me  round  corners. 

Passing  along  a  bare,  gloomy  corridor,  we  were  at 
length  introduced  into  a  charming  garden,  enclosed  at 
one  side  by  a  colonnaded  verandah  and  overlooked  on 
another  by  the  latticed  apartments  of  the  harem.  In 
the   centre,   and    from   the    midst   of    encircling   rose- 


i;aui)Kn  in  kaiijs  hoisk. 


bushes,  a  fine  marble  fountain  threw  a  crystalline  jet 
of  water  into  the  air. 

Passing  round  the  court  by  a  marble-paved  footpath, 
we  passed  underneath  the  verandah  and  entered  the 
Kaid's  reception-room,  the  door  of  which  was  extremely 
richly  painted  and  carved. 

The  Kaid  now  took  his  scat  on  a   mattress   which 


152  MOROCCO. 

did  duty  as  a  divau,  and  we  were  motioued  to  follow 
his  example. 

In  trying  to  do  so  in  proper  Moorish  fashion,  we 
ended  by  flopping  down  in  a  most  undignified  manner 
and  ignominioiisly  drawing  our  legs  under  us. 

Again  the  Kaid  broke  forth  into  compliments  and 
formal  inquiries,  but  these  being  beyond  our  depth, 
we  allowed  Assor,  who  accompanied  us,  to  keep  respon- 
sive pace  with  him  while  we  took  stock  of  the  room. 
This,  on  examination,  proved  to  be  most  handsomely 
decorated  with  a  dado  of  tiles  arranged  in  intricate 
geometric  patterns.  Beautiful  stucco  arabesque  sur- 
rounded the  doorways  and  windows.  The  floor,  too, 
was  laid  in  an  elaborate  mosaic  of  black  and  white 
tiles,  partially  concealed  by  couches,  rugs,  and  leopard- 
skins.  At  each  end  of  the  room  was  a  canopied  bed- 
stead resembling  an  ancient  Lord  Mayor's  coach  with- 
out wheels. 

We  were  now  able  to  join  in  the  conversation,  and 
do  our  best  to  satisfy  the  curiosity  of  the  Kaid  while 
carefully  hiding  our  actual  plans.  We  simply  informed 
him  that  we  were  charged  by  the  wise  men  of  England 
to  collect  certain  plants  for  the  Government  gardens, 
which  were  much  wanted,  and  which  could  only  be 
got  in  these  parts.  He  was  too  polite  to  appear  scep- 
tical, and  merely  exclaimed  that  God  was  great — an 
affirmation  which  in  this  case  implied  that  we  were 
Christian  liars.  He  showed  himself  interested  in 
some  of  our  scientific  instruments,  but  still  more  in  the 
photographs  of  our  countrywomen  which  we  showed  him. 


SIDI  REHAL  TO  DEMNAT.  153 

In  tli(3  midst  of  our  exliibitiou  a  small  black  slave- 
girl  appeared  with  the  tea-tray,  and  served  us  with 
the  inevitable  three  cups  of  syrupy  green  tea,  of  which 
the  Moors  drink  on  every  possible  occasion — coffee 
being  a  rare  beverage  in  these  lands.  Long  before 
the  tea-drinking  was  over  I  had  discovered  that  it 
requires  practice  to  sit  tailor-fashion.  My  legs  went 
to  sleep,  and  I  had  to  stretch  them  out  in  the  most 
unwonted  fashion  before  the  circulation  revived  again. 

Greatly  to  our  surprise,  we  Avere  allowed  to  take 
some  photographs  of  the  court  and  verandah,  and  we 
left  the  place  in  the  belief  that  here  at  least  we  had  no 
special  obstacles  to  encounter,  though  the  Kaid  had 
warned  us  that  we  must  on  no  account  venture  among 
the  mountains.  We  might  collect  plants  in  the  imme- 
diate vicinity  of  the  town,  but  that  was  to  be  our  limit. 


(     154     ) 


CHAPTER  XII. 

TOWN  AND  VALLEY  OF  DEM  NAT. 

On  leaving  the  Kaid,  I  gladly  threw  off  the  unaccus- 
tomed garments,  and  in  my  proper  Nazarene  character 
proceeded  to  inspect  the  town  under  the  guidance  of 
Assor. 

We  found  little  to  remark  in  the  matter  of  archi- 
tecture, though  the  Kasbah  looked  undoubtedly  pic- 
turesque with  its  surrounding  fosse,  its  well-preserved 
and  massive  fortifications,  and  its  overhanging  square 
towers,  from  which  the  Kaid's  women,  unseen  them- 
selves, may  look  down  on  the  town  or  scan  the  varied 
features  of  the  glen  and  the  distant  mountains. 

With  the  exception  of  the  governor's  house,  there 
is  not  a  single  building  rising  more  than  a  good 
English  storey  in  height.  All  are  alike  built  of  tahia, 
or  clay,  and  a  little  lime,  and  alike  devoid  of  ornamen- 
tation and  of  whitewash.  Still,  with  all  its  meanness, 
Demnat  presents  a  certain  air  of  prosperity,  for  there 
are  few  ruined  houses,  and  still  fewer  beggars.  The 
inhabitants  were  all  decently  dressed,  and  seemed  to 
want  none  of  the  necessaries  of  life ;  as  indeed  why 
should  they  in  a  fertile  valley  bursting  with  all  the 
vegetable  wealth  that  nature    can   give,   and  when  a 


TOWN  AND   VALLEY  OF  DEMNAT.  155 

family  can  live  on  fivepence  a  day  with  meat  at  two 
meals  ? 

We  found  we  were  here  among  a  far  different  class 
of  people  from  those  among  whom  we  had  so  far 
tra\'elled.  The  natives  of  Demnat  had  neither  the 
gaunt  features  and  the  wild  expression,  nor  yet  the 
tawny  complexion  of  the  country  Arabs.  As  little  did 
they  resemble  the  well-fed  town  Moor,  of  portly  figure, 
flowing  beard,  and  generally  handsome  face.  In 
Demnat  we  were  at  last  among  the  Berbers  of  the 
Atlas,  usually  known  from  Demnat  westward  as  Sliel- 
lach.  Neither  then  nor  after  months  of  acquaintance 
was  I  able  to  formulate  to  myself  the  particular  points 
in  which  they  agree  among  themselves  as  a  race,  and 
in  which  they  are  distinguished  from  all  other  peoples. 
To  me  they  seemed  to  occupy  in  general  appearance  a 
sort  of  intermediate  place  between  the  Moor  and  Arab, 
a  description  which  applies  generally  to  the  Shellach 
of  the  lower  slopes  and  the  entrances  of  the  various 
valleys  and  glens,  but  which  in  no  respect  whatever 
applies  to  those  living  at  higher  elevations,  where  they 
(lilll'i-  more  widely  in  appearance  from  their  brethren 
of  the  low  grounds  than  do  tlie  latter  from  either  the 
Moor  or  the  Arab.  As  a  rule,  the  Shellach  may  in  a 
very  general  way  be  described  as  being,  in  the  low 
grounds,  a  well-built,  pleasant-featured  individual,  with 
narrow  head,  well-cut  face  and  good  eyes,  and  but 
slightly  tawny  complexion ;  while  in  the  higher  glens  and 
elevations  he  becomes,  chiefly  through  the  hard  battle 
with  life  and  the  miserable  conditions  under  which  he 


156  MOROCCO. 

lives,  ail  uuder-sized,  wizened,  uiid  wrinkled  person,  all 
bone  and  sinew,  with  the  brown  complexion  of  leather, 
and  eyes  bleared  and  I'lieuniy,  as  of  men  who  spend  half 
their  lives  in  semi-darkness  and  amidst  pungent  smoke, 
as  is  indeed  his  fate  in  some  districts  for  two  or  three 
months  in  the  year.  But  we  are  anticipating.  Let 
us  therefore  return  to  Demnat. 

One  remarks  at  once,  in  wandering  through  the 
streets  and  lanes  of  the  Medinah,  that  the  women  do 
not  veil  their  faces.  Neglecting  in  this  respect  the 
express  injunctions  of  the  Koran,  which  stringently 
forbids  women  to  distract  the  thoughts  of  the  true 
believers  from  the  contemplation  of  the  sacred  attri- 
butes of  Allah  by  the  display  of  their  charms  and 
ornaments,  they  move  about  without  the  haik  or  any 
other  covering  with  which  to  veil  the  face.  What 
they  do  show  in  the  way  of  dress  is  certainly  neither 
alluring  nor  becoming.  It  seems  to  consist  of  a  single 
cotton  or  woollen  sheet,  which  in  some  mysterious  way 
or  other  envelops  the  body  over  some  under-garments, 
the  two  ends  being  fastened  together  by  antique  silver 
clasps,  from  which  hangs  across  the  breast  a  massive 
silver  chain.  On  their  heads  they  wear  a  gaudy- 
coloured  handkerchief  to  conceal  and  confine  the  hair. 
What  pleased  us  much  in  mixing  with  both  the  men 
and  women  was  that  they  seemed  delighted  to  see  us, 
and  showed  a  frank  curiosity  where  the  true  Moor  or 
Arab  would  have  glared  at  us  with  fierce  contempt 
and  hatred,  and  behind  our  backs  muttered,  "  May 
God  transfix  the  enemy  of  the  faith."' 


TOWN  AND   VALLEY  OF  DEMNAT.  157 

Under  such  genial  influences  we  expanded  like 
flowers  before  the  sun,  and  smilingly  saluted  all  comers 
with  the  salaam  or  invocation  that  peace  might  de- 
scend upon  them,  a  formula  we  had  latterly  been  dis- 
couraged from  using,  from  being  continually,  in  response 
to  our  civilities,  by  implication  consigned  to  the  lowest 
depths  of  hell. 

Beyond  the  groups  of  Shellach  we  found  little  to 
remark  in  the  part  more  especially  occupied  by  the 
followers  of  El  Islam,  for  here  there  was  no  properly 
marked  off  Mellah,  though  one  was  in  process  of  being 
built.  Still  the  Jew  is  not  happy  except  when 
herding  among  his  kind,  and  speedily  by  nose  and 
eye  we  were  offensively  made  aware  that  we  were 
approaching  the  homesteads  of  the  chosen  race  of 
Israel, 

It  required  all  our  courage  to  penetrate  into  this 
network  of  dunghills  and  indescribable  filth ;  but  we 
considered  it  our  bounden  duty  as  explorers  to  let  no 
fastidiousness  stand  in  our  way. 

Stepping  along  with  studied  care  and  watchfulness, 
keeping  down  as  best  we  might  the  unpleasant  sensa- 
tion that  would  arise,  as  it  had  from  far  different 
causes  at  sea,  we  peeped  into  various  houses  and  exa- 
mined with  interest  the  daughters  of  Judah,  who 
massed  themselves  round  the  doors  in  tilthy  gowns 
and  repulsive  fleshliness. 

It  was  quite  irritating  to  find  that  some  80  per 
cent,  of  the  eyes  directed  toward  us  were  sightless  from 
cataract,    disfigured    by    squinting,    or    inflamed    and 


I5S 


MOROCCO. 


swollen  by  ophthalmia.  It  seemed  almost  incredible 
that  such  things  could  be  in  a  small  town  situated  in 
a  well-drained  valley,  and  surrounded  by  wholesome 
cooling  breezes  from  the  snowy  heights  in  the  immediate 
neighbourhood. 

And  yet  it  was  no  puzzle.  No  family,  however 
large,  occupied  more  than  one  small  windowless  room, 
though  frequently  several  families  are  huddled  together 


like  pigs  in  a  poke.  In  addition,  the  rooms  are,  in 
almost  every  case,  built  round  a  small  court  some  fifteen 
feet  square,  and  have  a  second  series  of  upper  apart- 
ments similarly  occupied,  the  balcony  which  leads  to 
the  doors  affording  a  partial  shade  to  the  court  below. 
These  enclosures  are  the  common  family  sewers, 
general  reception  and  work  rooms  for  the  women,  and 
happy  play-grounds  of  the  children.      In  addition,  they 


TOWN  AND   VALLEY  OF  DEMNAT.  159 

serve  as  stables  for  the  donkeys  and  mules  of  those  in 
the  compound  who  possess  such  beasts  of  burden.  The 
sights  and  smells  are  sickening  beyond  description. 
And  yet  here,  in  happy  unconsciousness  of  anything 
unusual,  groups  of  women  spend  the  day  carding  or 
spinning  wool,  sewing  clothes,  cooking,  &c.  Their 
dress  is  quite  the  same  as  their  Shellach  neighbours, 
but  necklets  of  gold  coins  are  more  common.  Among 
other  things  to  arouse  our  astonishment  and  disgust, 
was  the  discovery  of  the  existence  of  child-wives  of 
eight,  nine,  and  ten  years  of  age,  some  of  whom  are 
mothers  at  twelve  and  thirteen. 

We  had  the  courage  to  enter  one  or  two  of  the 
rooms  which  surround  these  festering,  fly- infested 
courts ;  but  as  few  will  have  the  temerity  to  follow 
me  farther,  I  shall  draw  a  veil  over  the  interiors.  In 
justice  to  other  towns  of  ^[orocco,  it  should  be  said 
that,  though  all  the  Mellahs  are  abominably  filthy, 
that  of  Demnat  is  in  that  respect  far  ahead  of  any 
other  I  have  seen. 

One  naturally  supposes  that  this  state  of  affairs 
arises  from  the  oppression  under  which  the  inhabitants 
live  and  have  lived.  Undoubtedly  that  supplies  a  clue 
to  the  true  explanation,  but  it  has  been  the  oppres- 
sion of  past  years  which  has  branded  its  brutalising 
mark  upon  this  irrepressible  race.  The  oppression  of 
to-day,  such  as  there  is  of  it  specially  directed  against 
the  Jews — and  that  is  very  little  in  the  towns — has 
nothing  to  do  with  the  beastly  state  of  filth  in  which 
they   live.      They  are,   take   thrm   all   together,  much 


i6o  MOROCCO. 

better  provided  with  this  world's  goods  than  the 
j\[oors,  who  have  their  streets  clean  and  their  houses 
and  courts  wholesome  and  healthy.  In  Demnat  they 
are  not  even  confined  in  a  Mellah,  and  are  under 
no  restrictions  about  the  removal  of  filth.  The  only 
explanation  is  that  work  the  Jews  will  not  except  to 
bring  in  money.  And  yet  they  wonder  why  God 
punishes  thera — His  chosen  people — with  every  pos- 
sible ophthalmic  disease,  while  their  hated  neighbours, 
whom  surely  He  has  doomed  to  everlasting  perdition, 
are  free  from  similar  troubles. 

What  a  relief  it  was  to  escape  from  this  sicken- 
ing plague-spot,  and  find  ourselves  outside  the  walls, 
inhaling  the  untainted  mountain  breezes,  and  looking 
back  upon  the  now  picturesque  battlements  or  down 
into  the  terraced  glen  at  the  edge  of  which  the  town 
is  built. 

In  the  afternoon  we  set  forth  to  visit  a  remarkable 
"  cave,"  of  which  we  had  heard  much  from  Assor, 
though  he  himself  had  never  seen  it.  As  it  was  only 
a  few  miles  up  the  valley,  the  Kaid  made  no  trouble 
about  letting  ns  go,  though  carefully  providing  us 
with  a  couple  of  soldiers,  as  much  to  watch  what  we 
did  as  to  protect  us  in  case  of  need. 

Mounted  on  mules,  we  descended  the  steep  side  of 
the  glen  on  the  side  of  which  Demnat  stands,  till,  some 
three  hundred  feet  below,  we  found  ourselves  beside 
a  fine  stream,  winding  in  curved  and  recurved  bed, 
here  confined  between  overhanging  precipices  draped 
with   masses  of  ferns,  with  tree  and  bush  and  creeper 


TOWN  AND   VALLEY  OF  DEMNAT.  i6i 

growing  in  the  crevices  and  joints  of"  tlie  rocks,  there 
with  terraced  slopes  rising  in  a  liright  mosaic  of  many- 
tinted  greens,  of  mellow  gold,  and  speckled  whites 
and  reds  and  blues,  according  as  vines  and  various  fruit 
trees  grew  in  shady  groups  and  groves,  or  corn  lay 
ready  for  the  reaper,  or  marguerite  and  poppy  decked 
the  grassy  sward. 

From  the  bottom  of  the  glen,  where  numerous  corn- 
mills  driven  by  the  rushing  water  were  actively  at 
work,  we  scrambled  as  best  we  could  up  the  opposite 
bank,  with  the  delightful  murmur  of  the  running  water 
in  the  network  of  irrigation  channels  ever  in  our  ears, 
and  mingling  pleasantly  with  the  great  plaintive  under- 
tones of  the  parent  stream,  which  from  the  depths 
below  rose  on  the  wings  of  the  inconstant  wind. 

As  we  slowly  rose  in  elevation  and  wound  round 
the  swelling  hillsides,  we  thought  we  had  never  seen 
anything  fairer,  anything  more  beautiful,  than  this 
exquisitely  fertile  valley.  We  could  now  command  a 
fine  view  of  Demnat.  Its  walls  and  tow^ers  and  the 
commanding  buildings  of  the  Kasbah  seemed  massive 
and  picturesque  in  the  extreme,  and  gave  altogether  a 
different  impression — like  so  many  things  Moorish — 
than  when  seen  close  at  hand.  To  add  to  the  natural 
beauties  of  the  scene  were  numerous  villasres  roman- 
tically  perched  upon  sharp  jutting  ridges,  crowning  pre- 
cipitous hills,  or  half  hid  among  splendid  olive  groves, 
in  every  case  specially  disposed  with  a  view  to  easier 
defence. 

But   while   we   feasted   our   eyes  on   those  external 

L 


i62  MOROCCO. 

beauties,  we  were  not  indifferent  to  the  intei-nal  signifi- 
cance of  things.  We  had  ever  an  eye  for  rock  sections, 
which  gave  us  a  key  to  some  of  the  problems  of  nature 
around  us.  Here  we  came  upon  the  basaltic  dyke, 
wliich  from  beyond  Sidi  Rehal  had  appeared  at  inter- 
vals, breaking  through  the  limestones,  and  marking 
the  line  where  the  hills  sank  into  the  plain.  In  this 
dyke  lay  the  secret  of  the  fertility  of  the  valley  ;  for, 
decomposed,  it  forms  a  rich  soil,  and  when,  with  rich 
ingredients,  there  is  a  genial  warmth,  and  throughout 
the  year  abundance  of  water,  spread  by  a  network  of 
channels  over  every  square  inch  of  ground,  what  may 
not  be  expected  ? 

In  this  dyke,  too,  lies  the  explanation  of  much  of 
the  physical  conformation  of  the  valley ;  and  the 
beetling  cliffs  and  rugged  peaks  take  quite  a  new  in- 
terest when  we  come  to  understand  why  they  have 
these  forms  instead  of  the  swelling  slopes  and  dome- 
shaped  elevations  which  in  places  oppose  them. 

Some  two  or  three  miles  up  the  valley  we  came 
upon  a  massive  dam  thrown  across  it  to  raise  the  level 
of  the  stream  in  the  summer  and  divert  its  waters  into 
the  lower  series  of  irrigating  channels.  There  were 
two  higher  series,  which  derived  their  supplies  from 
more  elevated  points  of  the  Wad  Demnat,  and  carried 
water  along  the  slopes  of  the  valley  at  a  height  of  900 
feet.  This  dam  was  the  only  modern  public  work 
raised  for  the  general  good  of  the  community  which  we 
saw  in  Southern  Morocco. 

Beyond  the  dam  the  glen  narrowed  rapidly  on  passing 


TOWN  AM)   VALLEY  OF  DEM  NAT.  163 

Irom  (ho  more  easily  deciJiu posed  basalt  to  the  compact 
limestone,  and  evidently  ended  aljruptly  in  a  precipice. 
We  now  left  our  mules  and  took  to  our  feet,  as  the 
bridle-path  had  stopped.  For  a  few  hundred  yards  we 
had  no  great  difficulty,  till,  nearing  a  precipice,  we  were 
compelled  to  take  to  the  bed  of  the  stream.  As  we 
struggled  over  enormous  boulders,  or  jumped  from 
block  to  block  over  ugly  black  pools  or  foam- flaked 
whirlpools,  we  had  great  fun  watching  the  almost  de- 
spairing attempts  of  our  friend  Assor  to  follow  us  into 
these  unaccustomed  wilds.  Never  in  his  life  before, 
even  in  the  pursuit  of  gold,  had  he  been  tempted  to 
leave  the  bustling  street  or  the  well-trodden  highway, 
and  now  at  the  heels  of  two  mad  Christians  he  was 
scrambling,  in  danger  of  his  life,  up  a  frightful  gorge 
in  search  of  the  strange  and  the  picturesque  !  Even 
more  than  ourselves  our  men  took  a  malicious  pleasure 
in  watching  his  awkward  efforts ;  for  to  the  j\Ioor 
there  is  no  dearer  delight  on  earth  than  baiting  a  Jew. 
They  directed  him  the  worst  ways  possible,  and  cheered 
his  heart  with  jocular  remarks.  AVe  would  have  stopped 
them,  but  considering  that  he  was  likely  to  associate 
with  us  for  some  time,  we  concluded  that  one  plunge 
overhead,  after  years  of  abstinence  from  the  bodily 
use  of  water,  would  not  be  amiss  in  more  ways  than 
one. 

This  desirable  accident,  however,  did  not  occur. 
Losing  both  his  head  and  his  wind,  he  sat  himself 
down  on  a  rock,  and  farther  he  would  not  budge ;  and 
we  were  fain  to   leave  him  to  soothe  his  mind  l)v  cal- 


i64  MOROCCO. 

culating  wluit  ho  woulel  charge  for  all  these  perils  and 
shocks  to  his  sj'stem. 

JMeauwhile,  as  we  scrambled  along  amid  the  inspiring 
roar  of  water,  with  precipices  closing  in  and  frowning 
down  upon  us  in  ever-growing  impressiveness,  we  were 
struck  by  the  numbers  of  very  large  springs  which 
bubbled  up  in  the  bed  of  the  river  or  gushed  forth 
from  the  living  rock.  These  we  accounted  for  by  the 
theory  that  their  natural  line  of  drainage  had  been 
deranged  by  the  basalt  dyke  which  we  had  crossed 
running  like  a  wall  through  the  limestone  and  sand- 
stone rocks,  and  even  tilting  them  into  vertical  posi- 
tions. 

We  had  but  little  farther  to  go,  for,  turning  a 
corner,  we  found  the  way  suddenly  closed  by  a  pre- 
cipice I  50  to  200  feet  high,  above  which  still  yawned 
the  upper  section  of  the  glen.  At  one  corner  of  the 
closing  wall  a  fine  cascade  leapt  from  ledge  to  ledge 
among  the  bushes,  creepers,  and  other  plants  which 
draped  the  rugged  angles  of  the  rock. 

We  wondered  if  this  could  be  the  Wad  Demnat ; 
it  seemed  so  small  beside  the  torrent  which  raged 
around  us.  Pushing  forward  more  eagerly,  we  reached 
a  better  point  of  view,  and  found  a  great,  dark  hole 
yawning  in  front  of  us,  from  which  the  river  came 
swirling  and  roaring,  as  if  in  mad  delight  at  escaping 
from  the  hideous  depths  of  the  earth  into  the  fresh  air, 
the  bright  sunshine,  and  the  bush  and  flower  clad  banks. 
This,  then,  was  "  Iminitiri  "  (the  big  cave),  of  which  we 
were  in  search. 


TOWN  AND   VALLEY  OF  DEM  NAT.  165 

With  the  g^reatest  difliculty  we  struggled  to  the  mouth 
of  the  cave,  determined  to  solve  all  the  mysteries  con- 
nected with  it.  On  entering  we  were  struck  with  awe 
and  admiration  at  the  wonderful  sight  presented  to  us. 

We  found  ourselves  under  a  magnificent  arch,  which 
swept  overhead  at  a  height  of  1 00  to  1 40  feet.  Stalac- 
tites of  all  sizes  and  shapes  hung  from  the  roof  in  rugged 
yellow  pendants,  and  the  irregular  walls  were  adorned 
with  clustered  pillars  of  stalagmite  and  other  mould- 
ings of  Nature's  workmanship. 

Determined  to  see  as  ranch  as  possible  of  the  cave, 
we  pushed  deeper  into  the  gloom  of  the  interior,  ever 
with  the  impressive  noise  of  thundering  waters  in  our 
ears.  We  had  not  gone  far  when,  turning  a  nasty 
projection  of  the  walls,  we  were  suddenly  surprised  by 
a  glare  of  light  and  a  glimpse  of  the  deep  blue  sky. 

After  all,  then,  there  was  no  cave,  only  a  remarkable 
barrier  of  limestone  rock  diillcd  through  by  the  river. 
Thi.s  was  rather  a  damper  on  our  feelings  of  wonder- 
ment, and  thinking  ourselves  somewhat  defrauded,  and 
beinof  unable  to  gro  further,  we  returned  to  the  mouth 
of  the  arcli. 

We  were  now  conducted  up  the  face  of  the  precipice 
near  the  bordering  cascade,  which  also  had  all  the 
appearance  of  springing  from  the  living  rock  overhead. 
Right  under  the  roof  of  the  arch,  in  a  curious  shelf  and 
pillared  recess,  we  were  shown  four  artificial  circular 
depressions,  about  three  feet  in  diameter  and  a  foot  to 
fifteen  inches  deep,  each  one  having  also  a  smaller  de- 
pression  in  its  centre.      Here  it  is  said  that  holy  men 


i66  MOROCCO. 

from  Sus  and  the  Dra,  on  the  other  side  of  the  Atlas, 
come  in  secret  and  at  night,  and  Ijy  virtue  of  chanted 
incantations  and  written  words  are  able  not  only  to 
get  great  store  of  gold  and  silver,  but  to  determine 
where  they  may  be  found  elsewhere.  Undoubtedly  this 
superstition,  which  is  firmly  held  by  the  natives,  is 
a  survival  of  some  religious  rites  of  the  old  Nature- 
worshippers,  who  in  some  long-past  period  of  the 
world's  history  had  looked  upon  the  awe-insj^iring 
Iminifiri  as  a  sacred  spot. 

We  would  willingly  have  continued  our  exploration 
and  ascended  to  the  top  of  the  precipice,  but  the  day  was 
drawing  near  a  close.  Standing  on  the  ledge  of  rock 
where  heathen  rites  had  been  practised,  with  the  deep 
gorge  yawning  beneath  us,  the  strange  natural  tunnel 
running  in  fantastic  curves  far  into  the  blackness  of 
the  bowels  of  the  earth,  and  the  rugged  precipices  and 
rocky  mountains  above  and  around  us,  we  knew  some- 
thing of  the  feelings  which  must  have  filled  the  hearts 
of  those  who  had  worshipped  the  terrible  forces  of  the 
earth.  Blended  with  the  awe  which  our  immediate 
savage  surroundings  roused  Avere  the  softer  feelings 
that  stole  over  us  as  we  looked  down  the  romantic 
glen  and  saw  the  smiling  fertile  valley  bathed  in  all 
the  mellow  lights  of  eventide,  cradled  in  sheltering 
hills,  cooled  by  fresh  breezes,  and  fertilised  by  an  ever- 
flowing  series  of  irrigating  arteries.  One  could  at 
such  a  moment  understand  that  to  simple  savages, 
dependent  upon  what  Nature  gave  them,  the  sun  was 
no  mere  source  of  light  and  heat,  but  a  very  god,  that 


TOWN  AND   VALLEY  OF  DEM  NAT.  167 

spirits  ruled  the  winds  and  rain,  and  regulated  the  flow 
of  the  springs.  We  at  that  moment  were  also  Nature- 
worshippers. 

The  exigencies  of  the  hour,  however,  admitted  of 
no  lingering,  and  reluctantly  we  set  our  faces  town- 
wards. 

Next  morning  I  set  forth  to  complete  my  examina- 
tion of  Iminifiri.  lint  I  had  other  intentions  in  view 
as  well.  I  was  resolved  to  make  a  bold  dash  into  the 
mountains  beyond. 

Quite  unsuspicious  of  my  intention,  the  Kaid  allowed 
me  to  depart  with  only  one  soldier,  while  I  on  my  part 
took  only  my  faithful  and  willing  henchman  Shalum 
the  Jew  with  Abdarachman  from  Mogador,  who  knew 
a  little  English,  picked  up  as  a  boatman. 

This  time  we  passed  up  the  opposite  side  of  the 
valley,  with  the  object  of  getting  the  more  easily  to 
the  top  of  the  arch.  We  soon  arrived  in  front  of 
Iminifiri,  and  proceeded  to  take  some  photographs  of 
the  creeper-draped  natural  arch,  with  its  noisy  cascade 
of  water  dropping  ribbon-like  at  its  side.*  This 
accomplished,  I  set  about  my  more  arduous  enter- 
prise. To  get  rid  of  the  obstructive  soldier,  I  gave 
the  camera  into  his  charge,  with  orders  not  to  leave 
it  for  a  moment,  nor  to  stir  from  the  spot  if  he 
valued  his  life  and  liberty.  Thus  freed,  I  set  forth 
with  a  light  heart,  but  still  carefully  keeping  my  own 
counsel. 

*  These  photographs  were  subsequently  ruined  by  being  acciilent.illy 
re-exposed. 


l68  MOROCCO. 

In  a  few  jiiimites  we  were  on  the  top  of  tlic  closing 
barrier  of  rock,  and  then,  to  my  profound  surprise,  I 
found  that  I  was  not  only  on  the  top  of  a  natural 
arch  and  bridge  utilised  by  the  inhabitants,  but  also 
on  an  aqueduct  by  which  a  fine  stream  was  conveyed 
from  one  side  of  the  glen  to  the  other,  where  it  fell  in 
the  cascade  already  alluded  to. 

The  explanation  of  this  probably  unique  phenomenon 
of  a  river  being  conveyed  naturally  across  a  gorge  140 
feet  deep  soon  became  apparent,  and  proved  to  be 
sufficiently  simple. 

The  arch  was  not  composed  of  the  limestone  rock  of 
the  hills,  but  of  calcareous  tufa.  The  stream  that  now 
crossed  the  glen  had  primarily  fallen  as  a  simple  cascade 
on  the  eastern  side,  and  being  charged  with  lime  in 
solution,  had  throughout  long  centuries  continued  to  de- 
posit its  calcareous  burden  layer  after  layer.  In  process 
of  time  the  tufa  or  lime  thus  deposited  had  gradually 
grown  out  till  it  had  reached  the  opposite  side  of  the 
gorge  and  completed  the  bridge  aqueduct,  and  now, 
instead  of  falling  on  the  east  side,  the  stream  falls  as  a 
cascade  on  the  west  side,  and  there  continues  its  deposi- 
tion of  tufa.  Of  course,  meanwhile,  the  Wad  Demnat 
was  also  at  work  beneath,  preventing  the  choking  up 
of  its  natural  channel  while  eating  away  the  limestone 
beds  beneath,  thus  preventing  the  formation  of  the 
massive  wall  which  otherwise  would  have  resulted. 

On  the  bare  rocks  which  overhung  Iminifiri  I  was 
delighted  to  discover  the  rare  gum-producing  Euphorbia 
resinifera.      This  was  the   only  place  in  the  Atlas  in 


TOWN  AND   VALLEY  OF  DEMNAT.  169 

wliicli  1  Ibund  this  cactoid  plant,  thouj/h  we  subse- 
quently discovered  a  different  species  in  the  neighbour- 
hood of  Agadir  and  on  the  seaward  aspect  of  the  moun- 
tains of  Halia.  The  former  is  distinguished  by  3-4 
angled  branches,  the  latter  by  9-10  angled  branches. 
The  Atlas  form  also  grows  with  shorter  and  more 
crowded  stems. 

Beyond  the  natural  bridge  the  country  opened  up 
into  a  shallow  hillocky  valley,  backed  to  the  south 
by  a  very  precipitous  range  of  mountains.  Find- 
ing a  small  village  of  Shellach,  we  made  friends  at 
once  with  a  pleasant-looking  native.  On  asking  him 
if  there  was  any  evidences  of  the  Christians  having 
been  in  this  neighbourhood,  he  told  us  that  on  the  top 
of  a  high  conical  mountain  which  he  pointed  out  to  us 
were  some  ruins  of  buildings  which  had  belonged  to 
the  Rum  (early  Christians).  It  struck  me  at  once  that 
this  must  be  the  "  Christian  church  "  reported  by  Jack- 
son in  his  account  of  the  Empire  of  Moi'occo. 

In  any  case,  this  was  all  I  wanted  as  an  excuse  for 
making  for  some  special  point  in  the  mountains. 
Abdarachman  smiled  in  the  sickly  fashion  of  a  man 
who  thinks  another  has  been  joking  in  very  bad  taste 
when  I  told  him  to  ask  our  informant  if  he  would 
guide  us  thither  for  half  a  dollar.  At  first  he  tried  to 
put  it  off,  and  I  had  to  order  him  in  a  very  emphatic 
and  angry  fashion  to  do  as  he  was  bid. 

Pretending  to  do  so,  he  said  that  the  Shellach  would 
not  go  on  any  account.  Not  believing  him,  I  turned 
to   Shalum,    touched    myself,    pointed    to   the    peak  of 


I/O  MOROCCO. 

Irglialusor,  drew  forth  a  dollar  and  nodded  at  the 
mountaineer.  My  meaning  was  caught  in  an  instant, 
and  put  in  words  for  the  benefit  of  the  Shellach,  who 
brightened  up  at  once,  and  uttered  the  magic  phrase, 
"  Ya  Allah  !  "  (0  God  !),  the  starting  signal  for  good 
Moslems. 

It  was  now  nearly  mid-day,  and  no  time  was  to  be 
lost  if  we  hoped  to  get  to  the  ruins  and  back  to  Dem- 
nat  before  dark.  We  therefore  hurried  off  as  fast  as 
we  could  go. 

We  crossed  numerous  low  ridges  which  coincided 
with  anticlines  of  limestone,  the  hollows  or  synclines 
being  characterised  by  red  shales  and  sandstone.  The 
soil  was  red,  clayey,  and  poor,  and  consequently  but 
little  cultivated.  There  were  no  villages  to  be  seen 
till  we  reached  the  base  of  the  mountain.  The  steep 
slope  we  found  to  agree  with  the  beds  of  limestone 
which  here  cropped  up  in  one  enormous  fold.  On  the 
lower  zones  were  magnificent  groves  of  olives.  Above, 
however,  the  soil  becomes  very  meagre,  and  supports 
only  the  hardy  arar,  junipei",  evergreen  oak,  and  various 
bushes.  My  eagerness  to  reach  the  top  of  this  range 
of  mountains  was  so  great,  that  I  was  soon  far  ahead  of 
both  my  guide  and  Shalum  ;  as  for  Abdarachman,  he 
was  left  at  the  bottom. 

At  length,  sadly  blown,  I  reached  the  highest  peak, 
the  top  of  which  I  found  covered  with  the  ruins  of  an 
old  building  of  very  great  strength  and  extent,  but 
utterly  shapeless,  following  as  it  did  the  irregular  out- 
lines of  the  mountain  summit.      The  walls  were  of  very 


TOWN  AND   VALLEY  OF  DEMNAT.  171 

great  thickness  and  well  built,  tliougli  without  lime. 
Inside,  the  outlines  of  chambers  could  be  here  and 
there  detected  amid  the  cairn-like  mass  of  fallen  stones. 
In  one  place  there  was  the  remains  of  an  arched  and 
cemented  underground  chamber,  which  probably  was 
used  for  the  storage  of  water  for  the  supply  of  those 
wlio  lived  in  the  building. 

A  glance  at  the  position  and  surroundings  of  these 
ruins  soon  disposed  of  the  idea  that  this  was  ever  a 
Christian  church,  though  not  improbably  it  may  have 
been  used  for  religious  rites  in  a  pre-Christian  era. 
This  at  least  seems  to  be  the  most  reasonable  theory  to 
account  for  such  a  building  occupying  the  desolate  and 
almost  inaccessible  position  it  does,  far  too  from  the 
fields  and  the  villages  it  would  have  had  to  protect 
had  it  been  merely  a  fortified  place  of  refuge.  Con- 
sidered solely  as  an  easily  defended  stronghold,  no 
place  could  be  better  adapted.  To  the  east  it  over- 
hangs a  sheer  precipice  of  quite  a  thousand  feet,  where 
a  stream  has  cut  through  the  upturned  limestone  beds 
and  formed  a  splendid  gorge.  To  the  north,  the 
peak  slopes  away  with  such  rapidity  that  few  people 
would  care  to  struggle  up  in  the  face  of  an  enemy, 
however  few  in  numbers.  It  is  only  to  the  west  that 
a  neck  of  the  range  makes  approach  fairly  easy. 

Having  satisfied  myself  of  these  facts,  and  ended 
with  the  same  tendency  to  believe  that  the  building 
had  been  used  for  religious  rites,  I  turned  to  take  in 
the  wider  prospect  that  spread  itself  before  me. 

To  my  inexpressible  delight,  I  found  myself  in  face  of 


172  MOROCCO. 

the  central  rid<^G  of  the  Atlas.  It  was  here  as  we  had 
pictured  it  from  Je1)elet,  though  somewhat  shorn  of  its 
proportion,  and  consequently  of  its  grandeur,  by  the 
6000  feet  underneatli  us.  In  a  massive,  almost  un- 
broken wall  it  sprang  abruptly  from  the  great  undula- 
tions of  limestone  and  red  shale  which  massed  themselves 
at  its  feet,  and  on  one  of  which  I  stood.  There  were 
few  striking  features  to  remark  beyond  its  stern  im- 
pressiveness,  its  even  outline,  and  the  completeness  of 
the  barrier  which  it  presented  to  all  who  would  cross 
the  chain.  The  snow  still  lay  in  great  masses  on  its 
summit,  and  crept  here  and  there  down  sheltering 
crevices. 

It  is  proverbially  difficult  to  estimate  the  height  of 
mountains,  but  combining  what  I  saw  then  and  after- 
wards of  other  parts  of  the  range,  I  do  not  think  the 
Atlas  at  this  point  far  surpasses  1 0,000  feet  in  altitude. 
Geologically,  it  was  abundantly  clear  that  the  grey  lime- 
stone and  red  sandstone  and  shales  which  form  the 
lower  ranges  also  here  composed  the  mass  of  the  central 
axis — the  even  level  of  the  top,  the  long  straight  lines 
which  run  along  its  face — its  whole  appearance,  indeed, 
markedly  suggesting  such  a  formation.  Later  we  were 
able  to  establish  farther  west  by  actual  observation  that 
this  conclusion  was  correct. 

To  add  somewhat  to  the  impressiveness  of  the  scene 
before  us,  a  great  storm-cloud  rested  over  the  mountain, 
from  which  continually  Hashed  shafts  of  lightning,  while 
the  thunder  rolled  and  rumbleel  with  awe-inspiring 
effect. 


TOWN  AND   VALLEY  OF  DEM  NAT.  173 

Fearing  not  only  to  be  cautrlit  in  the  grasp  of  the 
storm  but  in  the  darkness  of  night,  we  waited  but  to 
take  one  glance  at  the  gorge  on  our  left,  widening  out 
into  a  more  open  glen,  where  some  small  Shellach 
hamlets  appeared  in  bleak  loneliness  and  amid  desolate 
surroundings.  We  then  Imrried  as  rapidly  as  we  could 
go  down  the  mountain-side,  passed  through  the  yawn- 
ing gorge,  picked  up  the  sullen  Abdarachman  in  the 
more  open  valley,  and  were  able  to  listen  smilingly  to 
the  passionate  reproaches  of  our  exceedingly  alarmed 
soldier,  who  had  not  dared  to  leave  his  charge,  and 
through  the  hours  of  waiting  had  remained  a  prey  to 
the  fear  that  he  would  end  his  days  in  prison  if  anything 
had  happened  to  us. 

We  reached  Demnat  in  the  evening,  and  learned 
that  the  Kaid  was  as  much  perplexed  and  disturbed 
by  our  disappearance  as  our  guard,  and  that  soldiers 
were  preparing  to  scour  the  country  in  search  of  us. 


(     174    ) 


CHAPTER  XIII. 

TA  SIM  SET. 

From  Assor  we  liad  heard  much  of  a  place  called 
Tasimset,  situated  iu  the  mountaius  some  distance 
south-west  of  Demiiat. 

He  himself  was  personally  interested  in  Tasimset, 
solely  because  he  had  a  mother-in-law  with  a  bit  of 
property  there,  and  had  occasionally  found  it  cheaper, 
and  also  much  cooler,  to  spend  a  short  time  within  its 
precincts  now  and  then  in  the  heat  of  the  summer, 
making  use  of  the  opportunity  to  earn  an  occasional 
honest  or  dishonest  penny. 

Though  not  alive  to  the  picturesque,  he  could  not 
help  noticing  the  fact,  however,  that  there  was  a  fine 
waterfall  at  Tasimset,  and  he  had  heard  the  native 
Jews  and  Gentiles  speak  of  remarkable  caves  and  other 
wonders.  To  these  things,  as  not  bringing  grist  to  his 
mill,  he  had  paid  no  attention,  but  he  thought  they 
might  interest  us,  and  for  a  consideration  he  was  pre- 
pared to  act  as  our  guide. 

Of  course  we  clutched  at  the  idea.  What  we 
chiefly  wanted  was  to  know  of  particular  goals  to  make 
for,  to  enable  us  to  assume  a  more  definite  attitude 
with  our   men   and   the  officials ;    and    now    one   had 


TA  SIM  SET.  175 

been  provided  lor  us,  and  we  resolved  to  use  it  as  a 
test  of  tlie  character  of  the  opposition  we  were  likely 
to  Lave  to  struofofle  ao^ainst  in  the  future.  As  soon, 
therefore,  as  I  had  refreshed  myself  after  my  hurried 
visit  to  Irghalnsor,  we  proceeded  to  visit  the  Kaid  to 
announce  our  intentions.  We  found  him  holding  a 
divan  in  a  favourite  traditional  place  of  Oriental  gover- 
nors— his  stable-yard.  In  ^Morocco  horses  are  never 
bound,  but  always  kept  securely  hobbled  and  pinned  by 
their  legs  to  the  ground  in  an  oi)on  court.  It  was. 
here  that  we  found  Kaid  Jelleli,  his  round  half- Negro 
half-Moorish  head  peeping  cosily  from  beneath  his  huge 
turban  and  the  folds  of  his  haik. 

After  the  salaam  and  compliments  expressed  in  all 
proper  figures  of  Moorish  speech,  he  upbraided  us  for 
having  ventured  so  far  into  the  mountains,  to  the  im- 
minent danger  of  our  lives  and  against  the  express  in- 
structions of  Seedna  (our  lordj.  Whereupon  we  laughed 
merrily  at  the  idea  that  anything  could  happen  to 
British  Christians  like  ourselves — that  was  quite  too 
ludicrous.  As  for  the  Sultan's  injunctions  that  we 
were  not  to  be  permitted  to  enter  the  "  mountains  and 
dangerous  parts,"  that  the  Kaid  must  clearly  perceive 
referred  only  to  the  Bled  Siba  (or  independent  districts), 
and  not  to  the  Bled  Maghzan  (or  country  of  the  Govern- 
ment). 

Now  here  we  were  in  the  Bled  ]\[aghzan,  and  what 
had  wo  to  fear  while  under  the  potent  protection  of 
the  great  and  wise  Kaid  Jellcli,  whom  may  Allah  long 
sustain  and  prosper  ! 


176  MOROCCO. 

Well,  the  raid  iuto  the  mountains  was  an  accom- 
plished fact ;  obviously  it  had  been  "  written,"  and  who 
can  avoid  God's  decrees  ? 

It  was  a  very  different  thing,  however,  when  I 
announced  that  on  the  morrow  I  was  going  to  Tasim- 
set.  I  most  carefully  avoided  asking  his  leave  or 
the  protection  of  his  soldiers.  My  role  was  simply  to 
assume  that  he  had  absolutely  nothing  to  do  with  my 
movements,  and  that  his  soldiers  would  go  with  us  as 
a  matter  of  course. 

At  once  he  began  to  make  the  most  emphatic 
objections.  The  place  was  highly  dangerous,  and 
he  could  not  permit  us  to  go.  We  listened  to  all  he 
had  to  say  with  smiling  attention,  and  when  he  had 
finished,  told  him  that  we  were  prepared  for  all  the 
dangers  of  the  way,  but  that  they  would  in  no  respect 
alter  our  plans.  We  had  business  to  do  there,  and  go 
we  would,  leaving  all  else  in  the  hands  of  Allah.  Our 
tone  and  manner  threw  him  into  great  perplexity. 
They  were  those  of  great  people,  of  persons  having 
authority  behind  them.  Might  he  not  get  himself 
into  trouble  if  he  stopped  us  ?  Yes,  but  was  he  not 
more  likely  to  get  into  trouble  if  he  permitted  us  to 
go  ?  In  this  dilemma  he  took  counsel  with  his  major- 
domo,  with  the  result  that  he  said  we  might  go  if  we 
would  returu  the  same  day.  He  would  even  himself 
escort  us.  To  this  proposition  we  returned  an  emphatic 
negative.      We  would  not  be  bound  by  any  conditions 

He  entreated  and  argued,  even  threatened,  but  we 
remained   firm,   and   at   length   got   up   and    marched 


TA  SIM  SET.  \77 

away  without  waiting  to  hear  more.  A  few  minutes 
after,  a  messenger  came  from  the  Kaid  asking  us  to 
give  liim  a  letter  taking  the  responsibility  of  our  trip 
upon  ourselves.  This  we  did,  not  wishing  to  push 
matters  too  far. 

Meanwhile  our  men,  getting  wind  of  our  intentions, 
contrived  to  get  at  the  Kaid,  making  such  representa- 
tions as  caused  him  to  alter  his  mind,  and  once  more 
he  sent  his  servant  to  tell  us  that  we  were  not  to  go. 
Our  answer  was  short,  sharp,  and  indignant.  "  We 
had  spoken,  and  we  were  not  Moors  or  Jews,  to  eat  up 
our  words  aizain." 

That  evening  was  marked  by  a  terrific  row  between 
Shalum  and  the  Moors.  They  hated  him  as  a  Jew, 
and  they  hated  him  with  tenfold  intensity  because  they 
were  afraid  of  him  to  some  extent,  for  a  bolder  or 
more  stalwart  fellow  did  not  exist  in  J\[orocco.  It  was 
a  further  grievance  against  him  that  ho  would  not  join 
with  them  in  their  treacherous  tactics,  and  consequently 
they  looked  upon  him  as  a  spy.  They  sought  every 
opportunity  of  telling  lies  about  him,  and  quarrelling 
with  liini.  These  troubles  had  now  culminated  in  a 
terrific  outburst,  the  Moors  setting  upon  Shalum  with 
their  knives.  No  dog's  kennel  or  hyena's  den  ever  pre- 
sented such  a  scene  of  savage  clamour  and  worrv  as 
that  which  wo  witnessed  on  rushing  to  his  rescue. 

The  knives  vanished  on  our  appearance,  but  the 
clamour  redoubled  as  the  infuriated  men  turned  to  us 
and  declared  with  one  voice  that  this  dog,  this  pio-  of 
a  Jew,  had  reviled  their  religion  and  mocked   at  their 

M 


178  MOROCCO. 

Prophet.  We  must  send  him  away  or  they  would  not 
0,0  with  us.  It  was  bad  enouj^fh  to  be  the  servants  of 
Christians,  Init  to  liavo  to  herd  with  a  Jew  who  cursed 
God's  chosen  people  was  unendurable. 

That  Shalum  had  been  goaded  into  some  such  in- 
discretion was  only  too  probable,  for  he  was  the  most 
passionate  of  men.  There  could  be  no  doubt  either 
that  the  others  were  thoroughly  honest  in  their  indig- 
nation against  him.  One  of  them,  Zemrani,  utterly 
unable  to  articulate  words,  threw  himself  in  an  uncon- 
trollable paroxysm  upon  the  ground  and  kicked  and 
cried  like  an  enraged  baby,  and  as  if  he  would  break 
his  heai't. 

After  we  had  obtained  silence,  we  learned  that  El 
Hadj,  the  cook,  had  wantonly  broken  a  caraffe  containing 
native  wine  belonging  to  Shalum,  who,  bursting  out  in 
consequence  into  a  passion,  had  in  good  set  phrase  and 
with  astounding  volubility  cursed  the  offender  from  the 
crown  of  his  head  to  the  sole  of  his  feet,  and  consigned 
him  and  his  ancestors  to  the  lowest  depths  of  Gehenna. 

Under  the  circumstances,  while  sternl}'  reproving 
Shalum  for  reviling  El  Islam  and  its  Prophet,  I  empha- 
tically fell  foul  of  the  others,  and  warned  them  that  they 
would  have  us  to  reckon  with  in  any  further  attempts 
upon  Shalum.  I  also  declared  that  he  would  not  be 
dismissed  for  any  clamour  of  theirs.  As  for  deserting 
— well,  let  them  try,  and  see  whether  life  in  a  dungeon 
would  suit  them  better  than  travelling  with  us.  They 
knew  what  had  happened  to  the  Casablanca  Hadj  ;  let 
them  take  care  that  such  also  should  not  be  their  fate. 


TASIMSET.  179 

Thus  rebuked,  I  ordered  them  of!',  and  they  went, 
their  hearts  full  of  curses  and  intense  hatred  and 
passion.  We  were  getting  too  strong  for  them  to 
dare  outwardly  to  rebel  against  us,  though  we  could 
not  prevent  their  covert  anathemas  and  underhand 
machinations. 

On  the  following  morning  (31st  May)  we  started 
for  Tasimset,  not,  however,  without  a  preliminary  skir- 
mish with  the  Kaid,  who  sought  once  more  to  detain 
us.  Finding  all  his  obstructive  efforts  of  no  avail,  he 
let  us  go  at  last,  carefully  sending  his  own  right-liatid 
man  to  keep  a  strict  watch  over  us  and  act  as  a  brake 
on  our  movements. 

Our  route  lay  S.S.W.  along  a  small  valley  cut  out 
of  the  easily-weathered  basalt  dyke.  For  the  first 
time  in  Morocco  we  came  upon  some  clumps  of  trees 
worthy  of  the  name ;  among  others,  evergreen  oak  of 
unusual  size  and  some  fine  pines  (Pimis  lialipensis)^  a 
species  that  occurs  only  in  isolated  and  restricted  areas 
in  the  Atlas,  but  rarely  attaining  the  size  of  those  we 
now  saw.  There  were  also  some  very  large  juniper 
trees. 

In  about  an  hour  mid  a  half  we  reached  the  top  of 
the  little  valley,  and  entered  the  well-cultivated  and 
fertile  district  of  Twaka. 

After  passing  a  cluster  of  villages,  we  turned  more 
to  the  west  and  ascended  another  elevation.  We  now 
descended  into  a  small  mountain  depression,  in  the 
bottom  of  which  welled  up  a  magnificent  sprino-. 
From    this    we   passed    into    a   second   though    larc^er 


iSo  MOROCCO. 

hollow,  frowned  down  upon  by  a  precipitous  range  on 
our  left,  while  on  easily  defended  points  on  our  right 
there  appeared  several  fortified  villages. 

In  about  four  hours  we  reached  the  commencement 
of  a  small  valley,  charmingly  diversified  by  hill  and 
dale,  and  partially  sheltered  by  mountain  masses  with 
rugged  limestone  escarpments.  Fragrant  smelling 
walnut-trees  of  enormous  size  lined  the  hollows,  and 
olives,  with  their  dark-green  foliage,  spread  them- 
selves over  the  slopes ;  but  more  picturesque  than  all, 
certainly  more  familiar  adjuncts  of  mountain  scenery, 
were  the  fine  groups  of  pines  which  crowned  the  hill- 
tops. On  favourable  spots  were  variegated  squares  of 
barley  ready  for  the  sickle,  and  vine-clad  terraces  on 
the  hill-sides.  Springs  burst  in  remarkable  volume 
from  beneath  precipices,  and  were  confined  in  dams 
or  led  in  channels  to  the  fields,  the  groves,  and  the 
gardens. 

We  had  not  descended  this  little  Eden  for  more  than 
a  mile  when  we  found  ourselves  confronted  by  a  moun- 
tain village,  and  knew  that  we  had  reached  Tasimset. 

Our  escort  insisted  that  we  should  pitch  our  tents 
among  the  houses,  but  a  look  at  the  crowd  which  sur- 
rounded us  and  the  filthy  aspect  of  the  place  served  to 
tell  us  that  there  was  a  Mollah  here,  and  we  wanted  no 
closer  acquaintance  with  such  than  the  explorer's  con- 
science demanded.  We  accordingly  flatly  refused  to 
enter,  and,  in  spite  of  the  protests  of  both  our  men  and 
our  escort,  we  insisted  in  camping  on  an  olive-shaded 
terrace  where  we  found  room  to  pitch  our  tents. 


TA  SIM  SET.  i8i 

No  sooner  was  this  accomplislied  than  we  set  oft"  to 
visit  the  falls,  of  which  wc  had  already  got  a  peep 
through  the  trees  from  the  village.  These  we  found 
at  the  head  of  a  very  short  though  deep  notch  in  the 
mountain-range  which  overshadows  Tasimset.  Here 
we  reached  a  precipice  some  hundreds  of  feet  high, 
from  the  centre  seemingly  of  which  the  water  burst 
forth,  though  in  reality  it  escaped  from  an  irregular 
canon  too  narrow  to  be  at  once  detected.  The  fall  of 
the  cascade,  as  nearly  as  I  could  guess,  was  some  300 
feet,  and  it  looked  vei"y  effective  in  its  gleaming  white- 
ness flashing  down  through  a  deep  drapery  of  dark- 
green  creepers  and  bush  growing  in  the  interstices  of 
the  calcareous  tufa  which  covered  the  limestone  forming 
the  precipice.  It  was  easy  to  sec  that  here,  as  at 
Iminitiri,  the  origin  of  the  waterfall  was  due  to  the 
junction  of  the  easily-worn  basalt  dyke  and  the  compact 
limestone. 

In  the  afternoon  we  once  more  returned  to  the 
cascade,  this  time,  however,  to  explore  the  caves  which 
had  been  excavated  in  the  tufa  deposit  which  thickly 
covered  the  face  of  the  precipice.  The  only  entrance 
was  by  an  insignificant  hole  on  a  ledge  of  rock  and 
almost  hidden  by  bushes.  Through  this  we  had  to 
wriggle  like  snakes  for  a  distance  of  several  feet,  till 
we  reached  what  looked  like  a  natural  niche  in  the 
face  of  the  precipice.  Several  chambers  opened  from 
this  natural  portico,  varying  in  size  from  six  feet  by 
five  to  thirteen  feet  by  eight  or  even  ten.  They  were 
all    irregularly   excavated,  rarely    six    feet    high,  and 


1 82  MOROCCO. 

presented  no  distinctive  features  from  which  any 
conchision  could  be  drawn.  An  extremely  tortuous 
and  difficult  passage  led  up  to  a  higher  series  of 
similar  character,  lighted  here  and  there  by  holes  to 
the  outside.  There  was  only  one  room  which  we  found 
distinguished  in  any  way  from  the  others.  This  had 
the  style  of  a  nave,  supported  upon  pillars.  From 
it  opened  two  or  three  chambers.  Holes  in  the 
rock  showed  where  bars  had  been  employed  to  mark 
off  or  shut  in  these  side  apartments.  One  place  had 
a  cutting  like  a  seat.  We  could  discover  absolutely 
nothing  to  indicate  that  these  caves  had  ever  been 
used  either  temporarily  or  permanently  as  dwelling- 
places.  The  general  character  of  the  excavations,  the 
absence  of  any  features  such  as  would  have  distinguished 
the  abodes  of  even  the  most  utter  savages,  the  absence 
also  of  any  blackening  of  the  walls  or  roofs  from  the 
smoke  of  fires  or  torches — and  many  of  the  caves  were 
utterly  dark — all  went  dead  against  the  theory  that 
these  were  the  caves  of  troglodytes,  while  in  support 
of  such  an  idea  can  only  be  cited  the  legend  that  such 
cave-dwellers  did  formerly  live  in  the  Atlas.  As  far 
as  the  inhabitants  are  concerned,  they  ascribe  these 
excavations  to  the  "  Rum,"  or  former  Christian  inhabi- 
tants of  the  country.  In  my  opinion  the  caves  have 
either  been  used  as  secret  storehouses  for  grain  in  the 
ancient  fighting  days  or  for  purposes  of  sepulture.  I 
am  inclined  to  favour  the  latter  theory.  In  such  a 
rocky  eyrie,  in  the  midst  of  the  spirit-sounds  which 
echo   among  the  wind-swept  clitts  and  rise  from    the 


TA  SIM  SET.  183 

tulliug  water,  the  old  pagan  inhabitants  would  almost 
instinctively  seek  a  last  resting-place. 

We  did  not  dare,  in  the  presence  of  the  suspicious 
and  watchful  natives,  to  seek  confirmation  of  our 
opinions  by  digging  in  the  deep  deposit  of  earth  which 
covered  the  lloor,  but  we  saw  numerous  fragments  of 
bones  which  may  have  been  human,  and  pieces  of 
coarse  earthenware  which  may  have  held  votive  offer- 
ings to  the  manes  of  the  deceased. 

Upon  the  whole,  we  once  more  reached  the  light  of 
day  in  a  somewhat  nebulous  condition  as  regards  the 
objects  for  which  those  excavations  have  been  made. 

Anxious  as  far  as  possible  to  elucidate  the  mystery, 
we  asked  to  be  guided  to  the  other  caves  which  were 
said  to  exist  near  the  top  of  the  cliff.  Some  miserable 
Jews  were  ready  to  show  us  the  way,  but  as  dogs  and 
pigs  were  sternly  cursed  by  the  leader  of  our  escort 
and  driven  away.  We  were  not,  however,  to  be  turned 
aside  so  easily  from  our  projects,  and  forthwith  com- 
menced to  ascend  the  precipice,  a  proceeding  which 
seemed  sufficiently  foolhardy  to  any  one  not  accustomed 
to  such  enterprises. 

We  had  got  some  little  way  up  before  our  people 
divined  what  we  were  about,  but  when  they  did,  they 
began  to  scream  and  gesticulate  to  us  to  come  back. 
The  Raid's  majordomo  became  specially  frantic,  fearing 
a  disastrous  result  to  what  seemed  to  him  outrageously 
misdirected  energy.  The  Jews  alone  sat  dumb,  while 
numbers  of  tlie  natives  ran  off  by  the  ordinary  paths 
to  intercept  us  at  the  top  of  the  clitf. 


l84  MOROCCO. 

With  110  small  difliculty  we  at  length  reached  a 
gorge  through  which  the  stream  descended  before 
tumbling  over  into  the  valley  below.  A  little  further 
on  we  came  upon  a  natural  cave  in  the  tufa,  which,  by 
its  curious  structure,  gave  one  the  impression  of  being 
under  a  huge  mushroom.  The  bottom  of  the  gorge, 
where  it  opens  slightly,  was  carefully  cultivated  and 
wooded,  and  was  overlooked  by  the  picturesque  castel- 
lated buildings  of  the  Sheik  of  Tasimset,  perched  on  a 
high  isolated  rock  approachable  only  from  one  side. 

In  the  walls  of  the  cliffs  were  numerous  cave- 
openings,  many  of  which  could  only  have  been  reached 
by  ropes  or  ladders.  Those  we  were  able  to  get  at 
were  mostly  single-chambered,  of  no  great  size,  and 
now  used  when  conveniently  situated  as  granaries  and 
silos  for  the  winter  storage  of  grain  and  fodder ;  for, 
unlike  the  Arabs  of  the  plains,  the  mountaineers  not 
only  collect  all  the  straw  from  their  grain  crops,  but 
also  gather  hay  and  grass  to  feed  their  sheep  and 
goats  when  shut  in  by  the  snows  of  winter. 

As  we  peered  about  in  every  hole  and  corner,  we 
gradually  became  aware  that  we  were  being  watched 
on  all  sides  by  natives  hidden  behind  rocks,  ensconced 
in  olive  groves  or  perched  on  cliffs.  We  could  see  the 
projecting  muzzles  of  guns  and  the  gleam  of  their  silver 
mountings.  This  was  of  course  thoroughly  romantic, 
but  scarcely  agreeable  at  the  time,  and  we  thought  it 
wise  to  desist  from  further  explorations.  For  a  time 
it  seemed  as  if  we  would  have  some  difficulty  in  getting 
back.      Happily  we  struck  upon  an  irrigation  channel 


TA  SIM  SET.  185 

carried  round  tlic  face  of  the  precipice  with  remarkable 
skill  and  ent('ri)rise,  here  cut  out  of  the  rock,  there 
forming  an  aqueduct.  We  rightly  argued  that  by- 
following  this  canal  wo  would  eventually  be  led  to  the 
cultivated  slopes  of  Tasimset,  and  so  find  an  easy 
descent.  This  proved  to  be  the  case,  and  at  sunset 
we  reached  camp. 

Before  going  farther  afield  next  morning  we  trolled 
over  to  the  village,  where  we  were  permitted  to  exa- 
mine the  house  of  the  principal  Jew.  In  an  outer 
verandah  were  the  cooking-places,  and  a  curious  dome- 
shaped  erection  in  which  the  bread  is  baked.  In  this 
latter  a  tire  is  set  a-burning  till  the  requisite  tempera- 
ture is  attained,  a  number  of  small  stones  being  heated 
at  the  same  time.  The  fire  is  then  raked  out,  the 
stones  are  stuck  in  the  bread,  and  thus  garnished,  the 
loaves  are  placed  inside  the  oven,  which  is  carefully 
covered  up  till  the  baking  is  completed. 

The  verandah  during  the  summer  months  is  the 
usual  resort  and  workroom  of  both  men  and  women. 
It  gave  entrance  to  an  apartment  which  at  first  appeared 
quite  dark.  As  we  groped  our  way  in  with  bent  back, 
and  so  let  the  light  stream  in  through  the  low  door- 
way, we  gradually  saw  the  main  features  and  contents 
of  the  room  develop  in  the  gloom. 

It  proved  to  be  not  only  the  chief  living  and  sleep- 
ing room  of  the  family,  but  also  the  mule's  stable,  the 
cow's  stall,  the  sheep  and  goat  pen,  and  finally  the 
hen-roost. 

There    were   no   windows,   and    no   other    means   of 


1 86 


MOROCCO. 


light  and  ventilatiou  than  such  as  was  provided  by 
tlie  low  doorway,  which,  of  course,  in  inclement  winter 
weather  was  kept  closed.  The  house  inside  was  lined 
with  a  casing  of  poles  like  a  palisade,  to  prevent  thieves 
breaking  their  way  through  the  walls. 

Almost  the  sole  furniture  of  the  room  consisted  of  a 
few  pots.  The  odour  and  some  other  aspects  of  the 
place  need  not  be   dwelt  upon.      We  were  next  con- 


MOUNTAIN    VILLAGE. 


ducted  to  an  inner  apartment,  still  darker  than  the 
other.  With  the  aid  of  a  lamp  we  discovered  a  boy 
sleeping  on  what  looked  like  a  plain  box,  but  which 
proved  to  be  a  bed  intended  to  raise  the  sleeper  above 
the  cold  damp  floor.  As  in  the  other  chamber,  there 
was  nothing  to  remark  beyond  a  number  of  huge  pots 
for  holding  oil. 

All  the   Berber  houses  in  this  district  are  built  in 


TA  SIM  SET.  187 

exactly  tlio  same  inimuer,  with  the  oljject  of  keeping 
out  the  winter's  cold  at  the  expense  of  light  and  venti- 
lation, and  the  preservation  of  the  same  happy  com- 
munity of  interests  between  the  domestic  animals  and 
their  masters  which  makes  one  family  of  widely  sepa- 
rated members  of  the  animal  kingdom.  The  quadru- 
peds help  to  keep  the  room  cosy  and  comfortable  by  their 
vital  fires,  the  cocks  warn  the  careful  housewife  when 
day  is  near,  the  dogs  throughout  the  long  dark  hours 
remain  watchfully  on  guard,  while  over  all  the  master 
of  the  house  throws  the  protective  a3gis  of  his  presence. 
The  thief  may  feloniously  prowl  about,  the  mountain 
winds  sweep  in  bitter  blasts,  the  rain  fall,  or  snow 
hold  all  things  swathed  in  its  icy  folds ;  protected 
against  them  all,  the  happy  owner  sleeps  soundly  in 
the  bosom  of  his  family,  lulled  into  sweeter  oblivion 
by  the  continuous  sound  of  ruminating  sheep  and 
goats,  the  leisui-ely  grinding  of  many  jaws,  or  the 
rhythmical  heavy  breathing  of  sated  cows. 

Nearly  all  the  Jews  of  Tasimset  are  professedly  cob- 
blers and  petty  traders,  who  go  about  to  the  difierent 
markets,  which  are  held  on  particular  days  of  the  week, 
all  over  the  mountains  as  in  the  plains.  They  chietly 
spend  their  time  in  utter  idleness. 

We  were  shown  (_luring  our  stroll  the  remains  of  a 
substantial  building  of  stone  and  lime,  of  which  only  a 
part  of  a  wall  and  a  large  arch  now  exist.  These  are 
exceedingly  well  built,  and  are,  of  course,  ascribed  to 
the  Hum.  Truly  they  do  not  look  like  any  modern 
Moorish  or  Shellach  workmanship. 


i88  MOROCCO. 

Not  content  witli  what  we  had  seen  in  tlie  neigh- 
bourhood of  Tasimset,  we  resolved  to  make  tlie  most 
of  our  opportunities,  and  make  another  dash  into  the 
mountains. 

After  the  usual  wrangles,  to  which  wo  were  now 
becoming  callous,  we  contrived  to  get  away  minus  our 
escort,  ostensibly  to  revisit  the  caves  at  the  top  of  the 
cliff,  but  in  reality  to  explore  beyond. 

Following  a  picturesque  pathway  which  led  round 
the  edge  of  the  precipice,  we  speedily  reached  the 
Sheik's  house.  Here  we  refreshed  ourselves  with 
some  milk,  and  took  a  hasty  glance  down  the 
smiling  hollow,  and  over  the  broken  lower  ranges  to 
the  plains  of  Srarna  and  the  broken  range  of 
Rahamna. 

We  now  bribed  our  guide  to  take  us  up  the 
upper  glen  of  the  Tasimset  stream.  Leaving  this, 
after  a  time  we  pushed  our  way  up  an  uninhabited 
and  streamless  valley,  clothed  with  evergreen  oak  and 
adorned  with  buttercups  and  other  flowers  of  familiar 
aspect. 

At  length  we  were  rewarded  for  our  hard  work 
by  reaching  the  top  of  one  of  the  mountain  ranges 
at  an  elevation  of  over  6000  feet,  and  finding  before 
us  the  finest  view  of  the  Atlas  which  we  had  yet 
obtained. 

We  stood  on  the  edge  of  a  great  limestone  escarp- 
ment facing  south,  and  forming  a  sheer  precipice 
several  hundred  feet  deep,  from  the  bottom  of  which 
sloped  away   an   exceedingly   steep  talus  of  debris  to 


■  iie%« 


1 


T-- 


I  go 


MOROCCO. 


the  husband  were  soothed  by  divorce  and  the  pay- 
ment by  tlie  co-respondent  of  a  sum  of  money,  not 
to  him,  but  to  the  Sheik  or  governor,  who  consequently 
looked  with  favouring  eyes  on  such  lapses  from  virtue, 
till  the  time  came  for  applying  the  screw. 
Next  day  we  left  Tasimset. 


DACOERS,    POWDF.It    HOKK,    AND    ORNAIIENTS. 


(     191     ) 


CHAPTER  XIV. 

THE  GLE^  OE  THE   WAD  GADAT. 

Ox  our  return  to  Demnat  after  our  excursion  to  Tasim- 
set  and  tlie  heights  of  Tazaroch,  nothing  remained  but 
to  prepare  for  our  departure.  There  was  no  fre- 
quented route  across  the  range  from  Demnat,  nor  any 
accessible  Kasbah  or  town  which  wo  could  attempt  to 
reach.  Farther  east  we  could  not  go.  The  mountain 
regions  of  the  Entifa  and  Tedla,  the  "  Moyen  Atlas  "  of 
De  Foucauld,  being  in  revolt  against  the  Sultan,  were 
not  in  a  mood  to  receive  strangers,  and  we  could  neither 
atlbrd  to  be  killed  nor  to  be  defeated.  Our  only  fea- 
sible plan  was  to  try  the  route  through  Glauwa  to  the 
basin  of  the  Dra,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  moun- 
tains. 

Having  secured  the  services  of  David  Assor  as  in- 
terpreter, we  left  Demnat  on  the  5  th  of  June,  ostensibly 
for  Sidi  Rehal  and  Morocco,  but  in  reality  for  Tezert. 

All  night  long  an  exceedingly  hot,  dry  wind  had 
blown  from  the  snow-clad  mountains,  a  phenomenon 
we  were  at  a  loss  to  account  for  till  it  flashed  upon  us 
that  this  was  a  desert  wind  which  had  retained  its  heat 
in  spite  of  the   icy  heights  it  had  crossed.      In  the 


192  MOROCCO. 

morning  and  all  day  it  still  continued,  reducing  us  to 
a  dry,  feverish  state,  wliicli  only  too  well  agreed  with 
our  mental  condition. 

As  we  retraced  our  steps,  we  had  no  eyes  for  either 
the  mountains  or  the  plains.  We  could  think  of 
nothing  lout  the  hazards  of  our  position,  and  how  much 
depended  on  this  our  first  serious  attempt  to  cross  the 
range.  We  realised  but  too  clearly  that  to  fail  would 
be  disastrous  in  every  sense.  The  story  of  that  failure 
would  follow  us  everywhere,  supplying  not  only  our 
own  men  with  an  ever-ready  weapon  against  us,  but 
affording  to  the  Sheiks  and  governors  a  precedent  upon 
which  they  would  gladly  act. 

By  this  time,  of  course,  our  men  had  discovei'ed  that 
we  were  not  going  to  be  confined  to  the  plains  and 
frequented  routes,  but  they  had  no  clear  ideas  of  our 
plans,  and  happily  were  very  ignorant  of  the  mountain 
routes  and  the  geography  of  the  Atlas  generally.  It 
was  quite  evident  that  our  only  hope  lay  in  keeping 
them  ignorant,  and  in  every  possible  way  hoodwinking 
and  taking  them  by  surprise.  This  was  a  very  general 
proposition,  however.  Practically,  it  was  all  very  much 
a  matter  of  groping  in  the  dark,  trusting  in  the  chapter 
of  accidents,  and  believing  with  the  sanguine  faith  of  a 
Micawber  that  "  something  would  turn  up." 

Shortly  after  mid-day  we  neared  Tezert,  the  residence 
of  the  Kaid  of  Glauwa's  representative  on  the  lowlands. 
Pretending  to  be  fatigued  and  knocked  up  by  the  ex- 
cessive heat,  we  announced  that  we  would  go  no  farther 
that  day.      Our  men,  ever  eager  to  shorten  their  journey, 


THE  GLEN  OE  THE   WAD  GAD  AT.  193 

fell  with  deli<,''litful  unconsciousness  and  utter  iibsenco 
of  suspicion  into  the  trap  we  had  laid  for  them. 

We  pitched  our  tents  in  one  of  the  courtyards  of 
the  biiildin^^,  and  ghidly  kept  quiet  till  the  heat  of  the 
day  subsided.  Our  reception  boded  no  good,  for  neither 
Sheik  nor  mona  arrived — very  different  this  passive 
toleration  from  the  profuse  hospitality  of  the  Arabs 
and  Moors. 

Towards  evening  we  bestirred  ourselves  for  action. 
Taking  with  us  only  Assor  to  interpret,  and  forbidding 
any  one  else  to  follow,  we  went  to  visit  the  Sheik.  He 
received  us  in  a  species  of  shed,  and  looked,  indeed, 
like  a  man  who  would  not  be  easily  dealt  with.  We 
commenced  at  once  by  taking  the  bull  by  the  horns. 
We  assumed  the  insolent  and  arrogant  air  of  men  in 
authority  displeased  with  their  slaves.  We  demanded 
the  meaning  of  this  niggardly  reception.  Why  had 
he  not  sent  a  mona  becoming  our  importance  ?  Were 
we  Jews,  that  he  thus  treated  great  European  Kaids 
travelling  with  the  Sultan's  letters  ?  Did  he  desire  to 
end  his  days  in  a  dungeon,  or  to  see  his  master,  the 
Kaid,  brought  into  trouble  ? 

The  poor  Sheik,  who  had  met  us  with  contempt  on 
his  face,  looked  at  us  with  startled  eyes  as  the  delighted 
Assor  volubly  and  with  added  emphasis  translated  our 
bullying  language.  At  each  new  demand,  each  new 
terror  evoked,  we  rose  in  his  estimation,  till  in  his 
fright  he  could — and  would  if  we  had  not  been  Kaflirs 
— have  cringed  at  our  feet  and  kissed  our  clothes  in 
abject  submission.      As  it  was,  he  j)oured  forth  a  tor- 

N 


194  MOROCCO. 

rent  of  excuses,  lie  had  been  in  the  fields  and  had 
not  known  of  our  arrival  His  men  had  not  obeyed 
his  orders.  Everything  would  now  be  put  right,  and 
he  begged  us  in  the  name  of  the  one  God,  compas- 
sionate and  merciful,  that  we  would  forgive  him. 

We  softened  not  our  faces,  however,  nor  the  angry 
tones  of  our  voice.  Forgiveness  would  alone  depend 
v;pon  his  future  behaviour. 

Having  thus  pulverised  the  unhappy  Sheik,  and  put 
ourselves  on  a  proper  pinnacle  in  his  estimation,  we 
ordered  him  to  have  guides  prepared  to  conduct  us  on 
the  following  day  on  our  way  to  Kaid  Madani  at 
Teluet,  for  whom  we  bore  letters  from  the  Sultan. 

This  was  the  last  straw  that  broke  the  poor  man's 
back.  He  naturally  took  it  for  granted  that  we  were 
proceeding  on  special  Government  business,  and  he 
saw  nothing  before  him  but  ruin  and  spoliation.  He 
swore  that  everything  would  be  ready — that  he  him- 
self would  conduct  us  to  the  Kaid.  This  offer,  of 
course,  was  flatly  refused.  It  would  never  do  to  have 
any  one  in  authority  into  whose  ear  our  men  could 
pour  their  story.  We  told  him  that  two  of  his  men 
would  suffice,  but  especially  we  enjoined  on  him  that 
he  should  tell  no  man  of  our  mission ;  these  were 
matters  only  for  Raid's  ears,  not  for  slaves  and  ser- 
vants. This  he  promised  on  the  beard  of  his  father, 
and  we  then  left  him,  hardly  deigning  to  take  notice  of 
his  humble  salutes. 

Poor  man !  how  little  he  thought  that  the  letter 
which    was  proving  such   an  open  sesame  to   us  was 


THE  GLEN  OF  THE   WAD  GAD  AT.  195 

only  a  general  order  to  his  master,  iu  coniniou  with 
other  Kaids,  not  to  allow  us  on  any  account  to  enter 
the  mountains.  Of  course,  being  only  a  Sheik,  he  did 
not  venture  to  ask  for  a  sight  of  the  missive. 

Meanwhile,  our  men,  quite  unconscious  of  the  net 
that  was  being  woven  around  them,  were  enjoying 
themselves  thoroughly  over  the  supplies  now  sent  iu 
abundance.  We  kept  a  watchful  eye  on  them,  how- 
ever, lest  any  communication  passed  between  them  and 
the  natives. 

Shortly  after  our  interview  with  the  Sheik  a  moun- 
taineer left  the  compound,  who  we  were  sure  was  a 
messenger  dispatched  to  the  Kaid  to  announce  our 
coming.  Later  on,  a  courier  arrived  from  the  coast 
with  letters  for  us,  which  gave  us  an  agreeable  hour  in 
the  midst  of  the  racking  uncertainties  of  our  situation. 

On  the  morning  of  the  6th  we  were  up  before  dawn, 
almost  fearing  to  hear  that  our  hopes  of  the  previous 
evening  were  quashed.  Our  men,  however,  still  seemed 
unconscious  of  their  fate,  and  already  the  guides  sat 
waiting  to  show  us  the  way.  We  hurried  forward  our 
preparations,  and  at  5.30  were  mounted  and  leaving 
the  compound. 

On  getting  outside,  the  guide  turned  towards  the 
hill.  Our  men,  following  behind,  pulled  up  with  an 
exclamation  of  "  Allah  !  "  and  poured  forth  a  volley  of 
abuse  on  their  conductors,  demanding  the  reason  for 
their  choice  of  a  road.  These  looked  to  us  for  instruc- 
tions.     Through  Assor  they  were  ordered  to  proceed. 

Our  men  remained  standing,  bewildered  and  obdu- 


196  MOROCCO. 

rate.  Hadj  made  some  attempt  to  argue  the  matter, 
and  pointed  out  the  right  road  to  Sidi  Rehal,  our  sup- 
posed destination.  I  quickly  cut  him  short,  and  per- 
emptorily ordered  him  and  the  others  to  move  forward 
in  the  direction  of  the  guides. 

Sullenly  and  unwillingly  I  was  obeyed.  Many 
were  the  imprecations,  however,  "  not  loud  but  deep," 
that  were  heaped  upon  our  heads ;  many  the  ex- 
clamations of  pious  wonder  at  the  inscrutable  ways  of 
Allah  with  His  chosen  people,  and  His  long-suffering 
mercy  towards  the  infidels.  Elated  with  the  success 
of  our  stratagem,  we  paid  no  lieed  to  these  mutinous 
mutterings,  and  bidding  the  Sheik  ftxrewell,  we  fol- 
lowed in  the  rear. 

Another  hopeful  circumstance  cheered  us  on  our 
way.  The  Sheik  of  Zarktan,  the  only  place  of  import- 
ance on  our  way  to  the  Kaid,  was  at  the  moment  on 
a  visit  to  Tezert,  and  came  after  us  to  excuse  himself 
for  not  beincj  at  his  castle  to  receive  us,  saving  at  the 
same  time  that  he  had  dispatched  a  messenger  to  bid 
his  people  prepare  for  our  arrival. 

Everything  had  thus  conspired  in  our  favour,  and 
we  now  saw  our  way  clear  as  far  as  Teluet,  where  the 
Kaid  of  Glauwa  resided. 

The  first  part  of  our  route  lay  across  limestone 
ridges,  through  which  a  basalt  dyke  protruded,  pass- 
ing into  a  district  of  red  shales  cut  up  by  deep  gorges 
and  glens.  Some  scanty  crops  of  barley  grew  on  the 
ridge-tops  and  more  gentle  slopes,  but  elsewhere  the 
sides  of  the  glens  lay   bare  and  waste,  except  where 


THE  GLEN  OF  THE   WAD  GADAT.  \07 

here  and  there  patches  of  bush  found  a  precarious 
foothokl,  and  gave  relief  to  the  glaring  colours  of  the 
red  and  purple  shales.  The  courses  of  the  rivulets  and 
streams  were  all  shaded  and  adorned  with  stripes  of 
oleander  bush  in  flower. 

Without  being  absolutely  dangerous,  our  path  was 
sufficiently  difficult  to  require  the  constant  attention  of 
our  men,  who  grumbled  excessively  at  having  to  tramp 
on  foot. 

Crossing  the  fflen  of  the  Wad  Lar,  we  soon  entered 
that  of  El  iMulha,  or  the  salt  river,  near  its  junction 
with  the  Wad  Gadat.  The  Wad  El  Mulha  receives 
its  name  from  the  salt  witli  which  its  waters  are  im- 
pregnated. The  course  of  the  stream  had  all  the 
appearance  of  being  frozen,  so  great  was  the  quantity 
of  salt  crystals  which  covered  the  sides  and  sandbanks. 

At  the  junction  of  the  El  Mulha  and  the  Gadat 
stands  the  village  of  Enzel,  a  place  which  derives  great 
importance  from  being  a  sok  or  market,  where  the 
produce  of  the  Dra  and  the  Province  of  Glauwa  is 
exchanged  for  that  of  the  northern  plains  and  the 
city  of  ]\Iorocco. 

Up  the  glen  of  the  Gadat  our  way  now  lay  into  the 
heart  of  the  mountain  and  the  pass  of  Telnet.  With 
our  entrance  to  its  gloomy  and  cloud-enveloped  jaws 
our  men  knew  that  we  were  making  no  mere  detour  to 
Sidi  Rehal,  but  were  bound  for  some  unknown  goal 
beyond  the  snowy  heights. 

They  would  have  rebelled,  but  that  they  were  too 
much  afraid  of  us  now  to  do  anything  openly.      The 


198  MOROCCO. 

angry  passions  which  possessed  them  were  seen  in  their 
faces,  however,  and  found  vent  in  the  virulent  abuse 
and  curses  which  they  screamed  at  their  animals,  but 
intended  for  us,  as  well  as  in  the  painful  blows  that 
were  showered  down  on  the  hips  of  the  innocent 
brutes. 

At  Enzel  the  mountains  seemed  to  rise  abruptly  to 
a  considerable  height,  but  of  their  upper  zones  we 
could  see  nothing,  so  completely  were  they  shrouded 
in  clouds  and  mists.  As  we  advanced  up  the  glen,  the 
sides  gradually  closed  in,  leaving  no  margin  along  the 
turbulent  torrent  by  which  to  thread  our  way.  There 
was  nothing  for  it  but  to  follow  the  narrow  bridle-path 
up  the  steep  slopes.  Speedily  the  slopes  became  dan- 
gerous red  clay  precipices,  along  the  face  of  which  we 
had  to  pass,  overshadowed  by  beetling  clifis  above,  and 
looking  hundreds  of  feet  into  the  depths  below.  Here 
and  there  lateral  streams  had  cut  deep  gorges  in  the 
cliffs,  and  round  these  we  had  to  wind. 

With  each  mile  the  path  became  more  tortuous, 
more  zigzag,  more  dangerous,  as  the  glen  became 
narrower  and  the  clay  precipices  higher.  We  were 
kept  continually  on  the  rack,  ever  expecting  some 
disastrous  accident.  Neither  our  men  nor  our  mules 
were  accustomed  to  such  tracks,  and  both  were  equally 
frightened.  And  no  wonder  !  An  unlooked-for  touch 
of  the  pack  against  the  cliff  or  the  slightest  slip  of  the 
foot  was  sufficient  to  have  hurled  the  mule  hundreds  of 
feet  below.  The  dangers  of  the  road  were  immensely 
enhanced  by  the  fact  that  scores  upon  scores  of  people 


THE  GLEN  OF  Till':    WAD  GAD.n\  199 

were  hurrying'  down  tlic  u'lcn  to  Enzel,  where  a  market 
was  to  bo  lit'ld  on  the  following  (hiy.  Tliese  carried 
chiefly  dates  from  the  Dra  on  mules  and  donkeys.  To 
pass  such  was  dangerous  and  difficult  at  all  places,  and 
at  most  it  was  well-nigh  impossible.  Deadlocks  were 
of  continual  occurrence,  giving  rise  to  the  most  terrific 
wrangles  and  the  continual  exchange  of  showers  of 
abuse  and  choice  epithets,  till  the  whole  glen  seemed 
filled  with  the  clamour  of  shouting  men.  Thanks  to  our 
guides,  and  no  doubt  to  our  own  imposing  appearance, 
we  usually  got  the  best  of  the  disputes,  and,  when 
warned  in  time  of  our  approach,  the  mountaineers 
in  almost  every  case  made  way  for  us,  whatever  might 
be  the  risk  and  trouble  to  themselves.  More  than 
once,  however,  we  unawares  got  into  positions  from 
which  it  seemed  we  woiild  never  get  safely  out,  it 
being  just  as  dillicult  and  dangerous  to  turn  back  as  to 
go  forward. 

The  sagacity  and  sure-footedness  of  tlie  mountain 
mules  on  these  occasions  was  amazing,  and  contrasted 
strikingly  with  the  paralysing  terror  and  weak-kneed- 
ness  of  our  own  animals. 

At  any  other  time  or  in  more  favourable  situations, 
we  would  have  studied  the  wayfarers  with  keen  in- 
terest, ])ut  under  the  circumstances  wo  were  more 
absorbed  in  the  difficulties  they  added  to  our  march. 

We  were  much  struck,  however,  by  the  frequency 
with  which  we  were  saluted  with  "  Bon  jour,"  showing 
that  the  traders  on  their  way  to  Enzel  were  also  in  the 
habit  of  fre(|ueniinL;-  the  markets  of  Southern  Alu'eria. 


20O  MOROCCO. 

It  was  no  small  relief  to  us  wlien  the  day  cliffs 
with  tlieir  skirting  two-feet  pathways  came  to  an  end, 
and  we  descended  once  more  into  the  bed  of  the 
Gadat,  some  distance  above  a  once  substantial  well-built 
bridge,  now  half-destroyed. 

The  clouds  now  lifted,  and  displayed  in  their  fullest 
extent  the  savage  features  of  the  glen.  The  mountains 
rose  on  either  side  thousands  of  feet  overhead,  more 
imposing  in  their  height  and  air  of  solid  grandeur 
than  in  varied  irregularity  of  outline.  The  scene 
gained  in  savage  picturesqueness  with  each  mile 
we  advanced.  Here  the  glen  dilated  somewhat  to 
form  a  riant  hollow,  there  contracted  to  the  merest 
canon,  according  as  compact  sandstone  or  easily  de- 
nuded shales  predominated.  Not  a  sign  of  inhabitants 
was  anjnvhere  to  be  seen. 

Towards  mid-day  the  Gadat  disappeared  into  a  pro- 
found gorge  of  sandstone,  Avhere  we  could  not  follow. 
By  a  terribly  rocky  and  boulder-strewn  path  our  mules 
struggled  painfully  up  the  mountain-side,  ever  in 
danger  of  breaking  their  legs  or  of  rolling  down  to 
the  depths  below.  At  one  point,  my  horse,  which  I 
had  mounted  for  a  little  relaxation,  came  down  very 
badly,  and  nearly  went  over  a  precipice.  Happily  I 
retained  my  seat,  and  the  horse  recovered  its  legs  in 
time  to  avert  the  disaster.  After  that  I  did  not  again 
intrust  my  safety  to  Toby  whilst  in  such  places  of 
difficulty  and  danger. 

At  length  we  reached  the  top  of  the  obstructing 
mass  of  sandstone,  and   obtained  a   splendid  view  both 


THE  GLEN  OE  THE   WAD  GAD  AT.  201 

up  and  down  the  glen.  .Some  distance  to  the  south 
we  could  now  sec  the  snowy  peaks  and  table-topped 
mountains  of  the  axis  towering  ovei"  a  rugged  series  of 
much  cut  up  ridges  and  ranges,  which  seemed  to  run 
across  the  course  of  tlie  glen,  defying  us  to  reach  the 
heights  beyond. 

From  this  point  we  descended  a  couple  of  thousand 
feet  to  cross  a  lateral  ravine,  only  to  ascend  to  the  same 
height  on  the  opposite  side.  This  achieved,  we  found 
ourselves  at  length  facing  the  central  chain  of  mountains. 

The  most  varied  and  savagely  picturesque  prospect 
we  had  yet  obtained  in  the  Atlas  now  spread  itself 
before  us.  Far  down  at  the  bottom  of  the  conifer-clad 
glen  lay  the  romantic  district  of  Zarktan,  a  little  home 
of  human  beings  sheltered  among  precipices  and  gorges 
and  stupendous  mountain  masses.  Berber  villages,  like 
swallows'  nests,  clustered  against  the  steep  slopes  or 
under  the  cliffs,  with  olive-groves  around  them,  and 
bright  green  terraces  spreading  step-like  to  the  bottom 
of  the  glen.  Beyond,  the  Gadat  divided  and  spread 
itself  in  radiating  tributaries  on  the  northern  lace  of 
the  main  chain,  out  of  which  it  had  cut  an  amphi- 
theatre-like space,  with  deep  gorges  draining  into  its  own 
basin,  and  wall-like  dividing  ridges  merging  skyward 
in  the  snow-clad  masses  whicli  form  the  backbone  of 
the  chain.  There,  too,  were  the  table-topped  Adrar-n- 
Iri  and  the  more  conical  Jebel  Glauwi,  which  formed 
the  two  pillars  of  the  mountain  portals  leading  through 
the  axis  to  'JVluet  and  the  basin  of  the  ])ra.  Both 
were  crowned  and  streaked  with  snow. 


202 


MOROCCO. 


It  was  late  in  the  afternoon  before  we  once  more 
reached  the  bed  of  the  Gadat.  Hero,  on  a  little  knoll 
backed  by  pine-clad  heights,  and  with  the  roaring 
river  in  front,  stands  the  fortified  residence  of  the 
Sheik  of  Zarktan.  Though  built  of  tabia  (a  species 
of  clay  concrete),  it  looked  massive,  and  even  impos- 
ing, with  its  tower-like  angles  and  crenelated  walls. 
Here   we  found   shelter  and   protection  for  the  night, 


we  ourselves  having  the  guest-chamber  outside  the 
main  building  placed  at  our  disposal,  while  our  men 
and  mules  were  accommodated  in  the  courtj'ard  and 
stables. 

We  spent  a  very  pleasant  evening  amid  our  pictu- 
resque surroundings,  making  great  friends  with  the  son 
of  the  Sheik,  a  lively  boy,  who  seemed  delighted  to  talk 


TUB  GLEN  OF  THE   WAD  GADAT.  203 

with  us  aiul  tell  whatever  we  desired.  It  was  evident 
that  his  religious  education  had  been  sadly  neglected, 
as  he  liad  apparently  not  learned  to  hate  the  Christians, 
nor  to  curse  them  in  the  rich  phrases  which  the  Moorish 
boys  know  so  well  how  to  employ. 

We  were  much  annoyed  by  the  impossibility  of 
getting  at  the  names  of  the  various  mountain  masses 
in  sight ;  not  that  there  was  any  lack  of  names — quite 
the  contrary,  liut  no  two  informants,  when  taken 
separately,  agreed,  and  in  most  cases  w^e  had  either  to 
make  an  arbitrary  adoption  or  give  the  attempt  up  in 
despair. 

Our  men  did  not  share  the  now  exhilarating  feelings 
of  their  masters.  They  grumbled  audibly  over  the 
barley  bannocks  with  which  they  were  supplied,  and 
sighed  after  the  kuskiissu  and  all  the  choice  dishes  of 
the  plain.  They  would  have  bullied  the  life  out  of  the 
Sheik's  majordomo,  but  that  they  had  a  wholesome 
sense  of  being  in  the  Atlas  Mountains,  and  among 
people  who  would  stand  none  of  that  nonsense  from 
such  as  they. 


(       204      ) 


CHAPTER  XV. 

ACROSS  THE  TIZI-N-TELUET. 

Next  morninsf  we  did  not  start  till  three  hours  after 
sunrise  in  order  to  allow  of  my  taking  a  photograph  of 
the  place. 

For  a  short  distance  we  followed  the  chief  branch 
of  the  now  divided  river,  till,  reaching  a  point  where 
there  was  a  mellah  and  the  commencement  of  a  mag- 
nificent glen,  we  left  the  stream. 

Ascending  an  excessively  steep  ridge  of  grey  shales, 
which  separated  like  a  wall  the  great  glen  on  the  right 
from  that  of  another  smaller  tributary  of  the  Gadat  on 
the  left,  we  slowly  zigzagged  upward,  now  on  one 
side,  now  on  the  other.  Beyond  the  deep  gorge  on 
our  left  rose  a  still  more  westerly  ridge,  behind  which 
aofain  was  the  defile  of  the  Asif  Adrai'-n-Iri. 

By  and  bye  the  gorge  on  our  left  with  its  red  shales 
ended,  and  our  path  wound  round  its  head  through  a 
forest  of  evergreen  oak,  and  conducted  us  to  the  top  of 
the  coalesced  ridges.  We  had  now  on  our  right  the 
deep  cutting  of  the  Gadat,  the  stream  winding  like  a 
thread  two  or  three  thousand  feet  beneath  us  through 
repellent   grey     shales    to    the  foot  of    Jebel  Glauwi 


ACROSS  THE  TIZI-N-TELUET.  20; 

towards  the  south,  and  losing  itself  behind  a  curve  of 
the  ridge  to  the  north.  On  our  left  lay  the  gorge  of 
the  Asif  Adrar-u-Iri,  equally  deep,  but  less  mournful 
of  aspect,  with  its  bright  ground-colour  of  red  and 
purple,  and  mottling  of  arar  and  juniper.  Here  were 
bright  green  terraces  on  the  lower  slopes,  and  on  points 
adapted  for  defence  were  perched  numerous  picturesque 
mountain  villages. 

Behind  us  was  the  short  middle  gorge  which  carried 
us  back  to  Zarktan.  Beyond  and  above  towered  the 
dark  green  table-topped  lower  range,  through  which 
we  could  trace  the  course  of  the  Gadat  far  down  to 
the  plains  01  Zemran.  Seen  from  our  commanding 
height,  it  was  difficult  to  believe  that  what  lay  beneath 
us  was  the  difficult  and  dangerous  glen  we  had  so 
laboriously  traversed. 

To  the  south  the  eye  followed  the  sharp  irregular 
ridge  between  the  two  minor  glens,  till  it  ended  like  a 
gigantic  buttress  or  retaining  wall  against  the  sides  of 
the  fine  snow-streaked  conical  mass  of  Jebel  Glauwi, 
which  rose  in  a  magnificent  precipitous  sweep  of  at 
least  8000  feet  from  the  bottom  of  the  Gadat. 
Though  not  without  an  air  of  grandeur,  the  scene 
presented  in  this  direction  was  rocky  and  desolate  in 
the  extreme.  Hardly  a  shrub  or  blade  of  grass  toned 
down  the  grey  barren  slopes  of  shaly  debris  ;  as  little 
did  tree  or  bush  relieve  the  jagged  rocks  and  preci- 
pices which  protruded  from  the  mountuiu-sides. 

It  seemed  incredible  that  mountains  rising  to  eleva- 
tions of  12,000  and   13,000  feet,  as  did  those  before 


2o6  MOROCCO. 

us,  should  be  so  scantily  clothed  with  vegetation.  It 
was  of  course  evident  that  the  soil  was  of  the  poorest, 
and  that  it  was  being  denuded  with  great  rapidity. 
But  that  was  not  sufficient  to  explain  the  utter  bar- 
renness which  prevailed.  Later  on  we  learned  that 
hardly  a  drop  of  rain  falls  on  these  heights  during  the 
greater  part  of  the  Moorish  summer,  a  fact  which  goes 
far  to  explain  their  absolute  desolation.  Having  taken 
some  photographs,  we  resumed  our  way  along  the  ridge, 
the  vegetation  becoming  more  sparse  and  insignificant 
as  we  advanced.  The  arar,  juniper,  and  pine  were  now 
no  longer  ornamental  factors  in  the  scenery — and 
arborescent  vegetation  was  alone  represented  by  the 
gnarled  trees  of  the  evergreen  oak,  which  in  places 
struggled  to  hold  their  own  on  the  barren  ridge. 
Here  and  there  too  we  came  upon  scanty  tracts  of  the 
hardy  gum  cystus  in  its  last  bloom,  but  all  the  flowers 
of  other  species  we  saw  could  have  been  counted  on  our 
fingers. 

On  nearing  the  junction  of  the  ridge  with  the 
opposing  barrier  of  mountains,  we  had  to  descend  into 
the  gorge  of  the  Asif  Adrar-n-Iri  which  divides  Jebel 
Glauwi  from  the  Adrar-n-Iri.  This  was  a  task  of  no 
small  difiiculty,  and  would  have  been  impossible  to  any 
Christian  and  civilised  animal,  but  the  mule  of  Moham- 
medan upbringing  sprang  from  ledge  to  ledge  and 
from  rock  to  rock  with  all  the  agility  and  sure-footed- 
ness  of  a  goat.  The  descent  was  not  made  any  easier 
by  the  behaviour  of  our  men,  who  vented  their  ill- 
humour  on  their  animals,  and   acted   as  if  they  would 


ACROSS  TUB  TIZl-X-TELUET.  207 

gladly  see  every  one  a  mass  of  pulp  at  the  bottom  of  the 
abyss.  Some  such  disaster  would  most  assuredly  have 
marked  our  progress  but  that  we  ever  kept  watchful 
eyes  upou  them,  and  failed  not  to  threaten  a  horse- 
whipping if  they  were  not  careful  as  well  as  helpful. 

On  reaching  safely  the  bed  of  the  Asif  Adrar-n-Iri 
(stream  of  the  Mountain  of  Iri),  near  a  small  hamlet 
refreshingly  surrounded  with  hay  and  barley-clad  ter- 
races and  fine  shady  walnut  trees,  we  remarked  that 
the  grey  shales  now  became  intermingled  with  black, 
adding  a  more  sombre  and  repellent  colour  to  the 
already  bleak  and  melancholy  landscape.  These  shales 
were  capped  by  a  thick  series  of  quartzite  beds,  great 
blocks  of  which  strewed  the  mountain-sides  and  par- 
tially blocked  the  course  of  the  stream. 

As  we  scrambled  along  our  rocky  bridle-path  and 
penetrated  deeper  and  deeper  into  the  very  heart  of 
the  Atlas,  we  could  have  imagined  we  were  penetrating 
some  gigantic  volcanic  crater  by  way  of  a  great  rut 
or  fissure  through  its  lava  and  cinder-built  sides.  On 
either  side  the  mountains  rose  some  8000  or  9000 
feet  above  us  in  awe-inspiring  masses.  Hardly  a  blade 
of  grass  or  other  tuft  of  vegetation  was  to  be  seen  on 
these  frowning  heights,  though  that  some  did  exist  in 
favourable  situations  where  springs  abounded  seemed 
evident  from  the  occasional  bleat  of  sheep  or  goats 
which  came  wafted  to  us  on  the  mountain  breeze  with 
a  melancholy  cadence  in  keeping  with  the  air  of  death 
and  desolation  which  brooded  over  the  gloomy  gorge. 
No  other  sound  except  the  sighing  winds  along  the 


2o8  MOROCCO. 

hillsides  and  tlie  incessant  roar  of  the  turbulent 
torrent  broke  upon  our  ears.  And  yet  the  glen  was 
not  wholly  desolate,  for  even  here  the  hardy  moun- 
taineers, braving  all  the  terrors  of  winter  and  the  arid 
heats  of  summer,  had  established  themselves,  and 
forced  from  the  flinty  bosom  of  mother  earth  the 
wherewithal  to  eke  out  an  existence.  With  immense 
labour  they  had  built  up  terraces  along  the  lower 
levels,  and  laid  thereon  soil  fit  for  cultivation.  To 
these  they  had  led  channels  of  water  drawn  from  lateral 
rivulets  or  from  the  higher  levels  of  the  stream,  and 
by  such  means  forced  the  growth  of  hay  for  winter 
fodder  and  barley  for  their  own  use.  These  bright 
patches  under  cultivation  were  restricted  enough,  but 
in  conjunction  with  a  few  small  clumps  of  walnut 
trees  they  made  a  refreshing  strip  of  green  on  either 
side  of  the  torrent,  on  which  the  eye  rested  with 
pleasure. 

The  low  clay-built  and  flat-roofed  houses  of  the 
mountaineers  occupying  sheltered  situations  harmonised 
well  with  the  scene  around  them,  hardly  distinguishable 
indeed  from  the  slopes  and  cliffs  against  which  they 
clustered.  Something  of  the  stern  sad  aspect  of  the 
mountains  was  reflected  too  in  the  people  themselves. 
Folded  in  their  black  goat's-hair  kanif,  or  cloak,  with 
conical  cowl  drawn  over  their  heads,  they  sat  like 
inanimate  objects  on  house-top  or  boulder  watching 
our  passing  with  stern  yet  somewhat  lacklustre  eyes, 
their  wrinkled  and  weather-beaten  faces,  spare  forms, 
and   small   stature   telling   plainly   of    the   hard   battle 


ACROSS  THE  TIZI-S-TELUET.  209 

they  had  to  light  with  the  iurces  of  Nature  an'aycd 
against  them. 

Ill  little  over  an  hour  tVuni  our  entrance  into  the 
mountains  the  gorge  began  to  open  out  into  a  pear- 
shaped  expansion,  presenting  a  panorama  which  strik- 
ingly reminded  me  of  the  lava  and  cinder  mountains 
of  Aden  in  its  forbidding  colouring  of  black  and  grey 
shales  and  rusty  quartzites.  The  mountains  circled 
round  this  crater-like  depression  in  unbroken  frowning 
precipices,  except  where  towards  the  south  there  was 
a  distinct  notch  in  the  general  level,  which  we  knew 
to  be  the  Tizi  or  pass  of  Teluet,  the  last  remaining 
barrier  between  us  and  the  southern  slopes  of  the 
Atlas. 

In  this  dreary  solitude  stood  the  village  of  Titula, 
and  here  we  gladly  stopped  for  the  night.  The  Sheik 
received  us  politely  enough,  though  with  little  of  the 
demonstrativeness  of  the  Moors.  A  native  was  turned 
out  of  his  house  on  our  account,  and  in  one  of  its 
dung-plastered  windowless  rooms  we  took  up  our 
quarters,  as  it  was  not  deemed  safe  to  remain  in  our 
tents,  though  we  would  gladly  have  done  so  rather 
than  face  the  evil  odours  and  tormenting  vermin 
which  not  uncommonly  characterise  the  dwelling-places 
of  true  believers. 

The  natives  of  Titula  showed  no  efiusive  desire  to 
cultivate  our  acquaintance,  and  what  little  they  did 
for  us  was  more  stimulated  by  fear  of  possible  conse- 
quences than  by  feelings  of  hospitality.  We  knew  that, 
if  it  could  have  been   managed  with  safety,  our   men 


2IO  MOROCCO. 

would  gladly  luivc  united  with  tlie  niouutaiueers  to 
cut  our  tlii'oats  ;  but  with  the  sense  of  the  dignity  and 
charm  which  hedged  us  round  iu  our  character  of 
British  Kafiirs,  and  made  us  in  a  manner  invulnerable, 
we  slept  none  the  less  soundly  that  night. 

On  the  morning  of  the  8th  we  were  up  betimes, 
and  by  sunrise  were  on  our  way  in  high  spirits  to 
cross  the  pass. 

I  have  spoken  of  the  pear-shaped  expansion  of 
Titula  as  resembling  a  volcanic  crater  in  respect  of  its 
burnt  and  blasted  aspect,  but  this  morning,  as  we 
neared  the  head  of  the  glen,  it  became  evident  that 
ice  had  had  more  to  do  with  its  formation  than  fire. 
Everywhere  we  scrambled  over  moraine  matter  and 
enormous  ancrular  blocks,  which  had  been  ploughed  up 
by  glaciers  iu  the  higher  elevations  and  transported 
by  their  agency  to  where  they  now  lay.  This  was 
the  first  place  where  I  had  seen  any  certain  signs  of 
glacial  action,  and  I  consequently  examined  the  debris 
with  extra  care  and  interest. 

To  my  geological  researches  I  added  botanising,  but 
a  more  unpromising  region  for  plant-collecting  I  could 
not  have  selected.  What  was  lacking  in  numbers, 
variety,  and  scientific  value,  was  well  made  up  in  sen- 
timental interest,  however. 

Beside  sparkling  springs  with  their  green  circlets 
of  turf,  were  buttercups  and  forget-me-nots,  veronicas 
and  stellarias.  From  underneath  sheltering  cliffs  and 
rocks,  white  and  blue  daisies  shyly  peeped,  cosily  with- 
drawn alike  from  the  withering  sun  and  from  the  bitter 


ACROSS  THE  TIZI-N-TELUET.  211 

blast.  The  very  wayside  was  made  lioine-like  by  the 
occurrence  of  the  gooseberry  and  the  more  insigni- 
ficant plantago.  How  coukl  wc  but  be  touched  by  the 
appearance  in  tlie  midst  of  these  wild  African  moun- 
tains of  the  familiar  flowers  of  our  own  fields  and  hill- 
sides !  There  were  more  familiar  than  strange  types, 
indeed,  in  the  scanty  flora  of  the  upper  glens,  and  we 
gathered  such  with  an  added  tenderness,  souvenirs  of 
home  for  the  moment,  to  become  souvenirs  of  the 
Atlas  in  the  time  to  come. 

Meanwhile,  as  we  beguiled  the  time  by  botanising, 
we  were  still  heading  towards  the  pass  by  an  extremely 
steep  path.  As  we  ueared  the  top,  all  other  considera- 
tions became  secondary  to  our  eager  curiosity  to  see 
the  new  regions  beyond. 

A  lew  minutes  more  of  extra  pressure  on  limb  and 
lung,  and  we  found  ourselves  where  our  imagination 
liad  long  preceded  us,  and  at  the  point  to  which  we 
had  been  laboriously  struggling  for  over  three  days.  To 
the  north  and  south  there  was  now  nothing  to  obstruct 
our  view  into  the  hazy  distance.  A  single  glance 
suflRced  to  cast  a  shadow  of  disappointment  over  our 
sanguine  expectations.  The  scene  before  us,  looking 
south,  though  impressive  in  extent,  was  far  from 
picturesque.  "We  looked  in  vain  for  the  Anti-Atlas. 
As  far  as  the  eye  could  reach,  only  a  slightly  broken 
plateau,  7000  to  8000  feet  in  altitude,  without  a 
single  conspicuous  feature,  met  our  gaze.  At  one  or 
two  points  li)\v  table-topped  elevations  rose  like  mounds 
upon   the   general  level,  and   here   and  there   winding 


212  MOROCCO. 

lilies  trending  southward  indicated  \yliere  glens  and 
gorges  drained  ofl'  the  winter  snows  of  the  Atlas 
to  the  river  Dra.  An  even  more  deadly  uniformity 
characterised  the  colouring  of  this  mournful  landscape. 
We  could  not  detect  a  patch  of  green  to  brighten  up 
the  dull  grey  and  dirty  yellow  which  imperceptibly 
blended  with  the  hazy  horizon,  and  gave  an  added  air 
of  melancholy  sterility  to  the  scene.  For  anything  we 
saw,  it  might  have  been  the  plateau  lands  of  the 
Sahara  that  stretched  before  us — the  Sahara,  too,  with 
an  oasis  in  the  foreground;  for  at  our  feet,  2 5 00  feet 
beneath  us,  lay  the  little  valley  of  Teluet,  a  bright 
patch  of  refreshing  green  in  the  lap  of  the  mountains. 
From  where  we  looked  at  it,  Teluet,  with  its  apparently 
unbroken  circle  of  mountains,  was  strikingly  suggestive 
of  the  dried-up  and  grass-grown  bed  of  a  tarn  or  lake, 
as  indeed  we  afterward  discovered  reason  to  believe 
it  had  been. 

To  the  north  the  view  was  infinitely  more  varied. 
The  eye  roamed  over  the  seamed  and  scaured  glen  of 
the  Asif  Adrar-n-Iri,  the  better  clad  heights  over- 
looking the  irregular  gorge  of  the  Gadat  to  the  yellow 
plains  of  Morocco  and  the  partially-seen  mountains  of 
Srarna  and  Rahamna, 

Though  we  thus  stood  on  the  watershed  of  the  two 
opposing  river  systems  of  the  Dra  and  the  Tensift,  we 
had  not  by  any  means  reached  the  top  of  the  Atlas. 
We  had  only  as  yet  succeeded  in  scaling  a  notch  in  the 
range,  some  8400  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  On 
either  hand  grim  rocky   precipices  towered    3 000   to 


ACROSS  THE  TIZI-N-TELUET.  213 

4000  feet  above  us,  and  in  their  apparently  impreg- 
nable abruptness  seemed  to  laugh  at  our  hopes  of  ever 
being  able  to  desecrate  their  deathlike  solitudes  or 
soil  the  virgin  purity  of  their  snows. 

When  wo  had  taken  in  the  general  external  char- 
acters of  the  scene  around  us,  we  did  not  fail  to  note 
why  the  Asif  Adrar-n-Iri  had  not  succeeded  in  cutting 
through  the  wall-like  barrier  on  which  we  stood  and 
connecting  its  gorge  with  the  valley  of  Teluet. 

The  hard  quartzite  which  we  have  already  alluded  to 
as  overlying  the  shales  and  capping  the  heights  sud- 
denly bends  down  at  the  pass  and  forms  a  compact 
wall  across  the  glen,  effectually  defying  the  eroding 
action  of  rains  and  springs  and  frosts.  But  for  these 
quartzite  beds,  either  Teluet  might  have  been  drained 
into  the  Gadat,  or  the  district  of  Titula  into  the  Dra, 
in  either  case  lowering  the  level  of  the  pass  from  2000 
to  3000  feet. 

After  hastily  taking  one  or  two  photographs,  and 
collecting  such  plants  as  grew  under  the  protection  of 
sheltering  rocks,  we  commenced  our  descent  into  the 
valley. 

The  southern  slope  was  extremely  rocky  and  steep. 
The  men  never  dared  let  go  the  tails  of  their  mules, 
now  to  help  them  round  a  corner  of  a  projecting  rock, 
now  to  put  on  back-weight  to  steady  the  poor  brutes 
in  their  descent,  but  more  especially  to  arrest  an 
involuntary  headlong  progress  to  the  bottom  in  the 
event  of  an  accidental  slip. 

The  mountain-side  resounded  with  cries  encouraixinsr 


214  MOROCCO. 

or  vituperative.  At  times  tlie  mule  was  a  sweet  one, 
a  gazelle,  the  very  joy  of  the  driver's  heart.  In  tones 
gentle  and  soothing  it  was  invited  to  step  along  care- 
fully, and  warned  of  the  dangers  of  the  mountains. 
The  next  moment  the  unlucky  animal  had  bumped  with 
its  pack  against  a  projecting  rock,  or  had  stumbled  over 
a  boulder  and  been  thrown  off  the  path,  to  the  immi- 
nent danger  of  itself  and  load.  Then  it  was  that  the 
names  of  Allah,  His  Prophet,  and  all  the  Moorish 
saints  were  yelled  out  with  blasphemous  significance. 
Men  rushed  to  grab  hold  of  the  pack,  the  legs,  or  the 
tail  of  the  unfortunate  animal,  to  assist  in  preventing 
a  disastrous  catastrophe.  Everybody  screamed  out 
orders  or  cursed  and  swore.  Some  dusted  the  mule's 
bide,  or  overwhelmed  it  with  such  names  as  pig,  dog, 
Jew,  Christian,  infidel,  or  other  equally  opprobrious  epi- 
thets, in  the  midst  of  which  pandemonium  of  voices  the 
downward  progress  of  the  mule  was  generally  arrested. 
On  these  occasions,  however,  it  was  a  constant  marvel 
to  me  that  a  single  tail  was  left  to  adorn  the  bodies  of 
our  animals,  so  terrible  was  the  unwonted  strain  put 
upon  them  by  the  combined  weight  of  two  or  three 
men.  If  Tam-o'-Shanter  had  been  mounted  on  a 
Moorish,  mule  instead  of  his  auld  mare  Meg,  on  the 
occasion  of  his  memorable  ride,  he  would  never,  I 
make  bold  to  say,  have  crossed  the  keystone  of  the 
Bridge  of  Ayr. 

With  our  arrival  at  the  bottom  of  the  mountain  our 
path  became  easier,  and  as  we  neared  our  destination, 
the  misgivings  which   had    pestered   us   since   we  left 


ACROSS  run  tizi-n-teluet.  215 

Tezert  came  upon  us  with  renewed  force.  We  tried 
to  be  liopeful,  but  it  was  liard  work,  and  we  more  often 
pictured  ourselves  returning  over  the  pass  than  ventur- 
ing further  afiekl. 

We  rounded  a  hill  of  basalt,  and  crossed  several 
hillocks  and  mound-like  ridges  formed  of  undoubted 
glacial  debris.  The  country  we  traversed  was  stony, 
and  its  fertility  more  forced  than  natural.  Suddenly, 
on  turning  the  end  of  a  ridge,  we  found  ourselves  con- 
fronted with  a  magnificent  and  imposing  castle  of  the 
old  baronial  style. 

"  Tlie  battled  towers,  the  donjon  keep, 
Tlie  loophole  grates,  M'here  captives  weep, 
Tlie  flanking  walls  that  round  it  sweep, 
In  yellow  lustre  shone." 

We  could  hardly  believe  our  eyes  as  we  scanned  the 
turreted  walls,  the  crenelated  battlements,  the  fortified 
gateways  and  outer  lines,  which  rose  before  us  with 
such  a  princely  air  of  military  strength  and  glory,  in 
keeping  with  the  stern  grandeur  of  feudal  times,  and 
contrasting  strongly  with  the  Brununagom  clay-built 
Kasbahs  in  which  the  ^loorish  lords  of  these  days 
ensconce  themselves. 

AVe  had  little  time,  however,  to  stand  and  wonder. 
For  some  time  we  had  remarked  signs  of  general  ex- 
citement. JMounted  messengers  were  galloping  in  hot 
baste  from  village  to  village  ;  armed  men  were  rushing 
from  all  quarters  towards  the  castle.  The  hamlets  we 
passed  appeared  quite  deserted.  Something  unusual 
was  about  to  happen.      Could  it  be  war  ?  and  were  we 


2i6  MOROCCO. 

the  enemy  ?  were  the  questions  that  naturally  rose  to 
our  troubled  minds.  Impossible  to  say.  We  had 
advanced  too  far  to  retreat,  and  there  was  nothing  left 
but  to  go  forward  to  meet  the  good  or  ill  fortune  in 
store  for  us. 

As  we  neared  the  Kasbah,  we  noticed  that  the 
hillocks  beyond  were  crowded  with  women  and  chil- 
dren, but  no  men.  More  in  doubt  than  ever,  we  con- 
tinued our  way. 

At  length  we  rounded  a  low  ridge  which  for  some 
time  had  restricted  our  view.  Imagine  our  feelings 
on  finding  ourselves  confronted  by  a  couple  of  hundred 
armed  mountaineers,  drawn  up  in  a  double  line  across 
our  path,  supported  by  over  thirty  horsemen. 

No  sooner  had  we  appeared  and  drawn  bridle  in 
painful  uncertainty,  than  a  great  shout  which  sounded 
defiant  burst  from  the  crowd  of  Shellach.  Guns  were 
thrown  in  mid-air  or  twirled  overhead.  Next  minute 
half  the  men  were  on  their  knees ;  their  guns  were 
levelled.  Before  we  could  make  up  our  minds  as  to 
the  meaning  of  this  demonstration,  a  line  of  pale  blue 
smoke  burst  from  the  guns.  Almost  simultaneously 
there  followed  a  deafening  roar  of  musketry,  which  was 
answered  by  a  score  of  echoes  from  the  reverberating 
mountains. 

C.-B.'s  horse  reared  and  plunged,  and  one  of  the 
mules  swerving  aside,  laid  its  rider  at  its  feet.  The 
curses  that  followed  showed  that  nothing  serious  had 
happened. 

In  fjuick  succession  the  remaining  mountaineers  fired 


ACROSS  THE  TIZI-N-TELUET.  217 

their  lont^  Hint-locks.  SiukK'nly  from  out  the  cloud 
of  smoke  which  half  hid  the  crowd  the  horsemen  ap- 
peared. Once  free  of  the  footmen,  they  halted  to  form 
in  line  for  a  charge.  The  next  moment  they  started. 
At  first  they  advanced  slowly,  though  their  fiery  barbs 
were  evidently  straining  to  break  away  in  a  fierce  rush. 
The  horsemen  were  holding  their  long  guns  vertically 
in  their  hands,  the  stocks  resting  on  their  thighs. 
Nearer  and  nearer  they  came.  Fascinated  by  the  sight, 
we  watched  them,  hardly  knowing  what  they  were  going 
to  do — not  knowing  what  to  do  ourselves. 

Half  the  distance  between  us  had  been  passed,  and 
still  they  leisurely  pranced  forward  in  line,  though  the 
pace  was  increasing  into  a  hand-gallop.  Suddenly  the 
leader  of  the  charging  party  raised  his  weapon  above 
his  head.  Thirty  others  followed  his  example.  The 
horses,  knowing  the  signal,  plunged  and  curvetted 
wildly  to  break  away.  One  moment  the  guns  were 
whirled  in  mid-air,  the  next  brought  to  the  shoulder. 
The  reins  were  now  dropped,  the  horses  bur.st  forward 
like  a  tornado,  their  muzzles  ftxr  advanced,  their  feet 
striking  up  clouds  of  dust.  Shouts  from  the  armed 
men  and  shriller  screams  from  the  more  distant  women 
rent  the  air.  Our  horses  were  rearing  in  the  wildest 
excitement  and  the  mules  scattering  in  terror.  We 
were  confusedly  aware  of  floating  haiks,  of  guns  in 
deadly  proximity,  and  the  thunder  of  galloping  horses. 
A  deafening  volley  crashed  upon  our  ears.  Almost 
unseen,  amidst  the  smoke  and  dust  which  now  enveloped 
them,  the  horsemen  divided  and  passed  to  right  and  left. 


2i8  MOROCCO. 

We  now  knew  that  we  were  not  the  objects  of  a 
murderous  attack.  We  were  being  honoured  by  a 
princely  reception.  Our  minds  set  at  rest,  we  speedily 
assumed  the  deportment  of  men  to  whom  demonstra- 
tions of  the  kind  were  of  daily  occurrence.  The 
seneschal  or  chamberlain  of  the  castle  advanced  with 
the  welcomes  of  his  liege  lord,  and  these  were  replied 
to  with  suitable  dignity  and  courtesy.  Under  his 
guidance  we  rode  forward  surrounded  by  footmen  and 
horsemen,  who  betrayed  in  their  shouts-  and  gunfiring 
the  lively  joy  they  had  in  seeing  two  "  rebels  against 
God  "  the  guests  of  their  master. 

We  were  first  conducted  through  a  series  of  court- 
yards, the  walls  of  which  formed  outer  lines  of  defence. 
Traversing  these  courts  through  ever-crrowing  crowds 
of  people,  we  reached  at  length  a  strong  stone-built 
barbican.  Passing  underneath  its  massive  portals,  we 
left  the  crowd  behind  and  entered  the  citadel  proper, 
though  still  outside  the  castle,  into  which  no  stranger 
may  enter.  The  courts,  passages  and  guardrooms 
were  alive  with  wild-looking  soldiers  and  black  slaves 
in  snow-white  dresses.  As  we  passed  along,  the  scenes 
before  us  seemed  to  be  those  of  a  dream  rather  thau 
the  sober  realities  of  Moorish  travel.  We  were  within 
a  feudal  castle,  surrounded  by  everything  in  harmony, 
with  only  an  Oriental  gilding  superadded. 

"  By  narrow  drawbridge,  outworks  strong, 
Through  studded  gates  and  entrance  long, 
To  the  main  court  they  cross. 
It  was  a  wide  and  stately  square  : 
Around  were  lodgings  fit  and  fair, 


ACROSS  THE  TIZI-N-TELVET.  219 

Ami  towers  of  various  foini, 
Wliich  in  tlie  court  projected  far, 
And  broke  in  lines  quadrangular. 
Here  was  square  keep,  there  turret  high, 
Or  pinnacle  that  sought  the  sky." 

As  we  passed  onward  we  failed  not  to  remark  the 
massiveness  of  the  buttress-strengthened  solid  stone 
walls  of  the  main  building,  pierced  oidy  by  narrow 
loopholes  and  turreted  projections,  adapted  for  the  use 
of  sharpshooters  in  times  of  siege,  or  in  more  peace- 
ful periods  affording  to  the  ladies  of  the  harem  such 
restricted  views  of  the  outside  world  as  were  compatible 
with  some  scanty  measure  of  light  and  air. 

At  the  moment  we  had  the  pleasurable  sensation  of 
knowing  that  the  dark-eyed  inmates  of  the  Raid's 
earthly  paradise  were  struggling  to  get  a  glimpse  of 
the  first  two  specimens  of  the  dreaded  Anasera  (Chris- 
tians) they  had  ever  had  the  opportunity  of  seeing. 
We  could  see  no  faces,  though  we  surreptitiously  got 
glimpses  of  liaiks  and  heard  the  sound  of  eager  femi- 
nine voices.  We  would  willingly  have  looked  straight 
up  at  their  peepholes  with  an  unselfish  desire  to  correct 
their  erroneous  notions  about  our  personal  appearance, 
but  we  did  not  as  yet  know  whether  such  a  proceeding 
might  not  bo  followed  in  these  wild  lands  by  the  good 
old-fashioned  ]Moorish  order,  "  Off  with  their  heads  ;  "  so 
we  repressed  our  laudable  inclinations  and  demurely 
followed  our  guide. 

We  now  entered  an  inner  court.  Here  stood  to 
receive  us  El  Madani,  alias  El  Glauwi,  alias  Uld 
Tabibt,    Kaid    of   the    great     mountain    province    of 


220  MOROCCO. 

Glauvva.  We  saw  before  us  a  young  man  of  some 
thirty  summers,  of  languid  manner  and  pleasant  ex- 
pression, distinguished  by  high  cheek-bones,  weak  chin, 
fine  brown  eyes,  and  sallow  complexion.  We  hastened 
at  once  to  dismount  and  salute  him. 

Salaams  and  compliments  over,  the  Kaid  himself  led 
us  into  a  pleasant  garden,  and  thence  through  a  colon- 
naded verandah  into  a  shady  room  handsomely  painted 
with  arabesques,  and  luxuriously  though  simply  fur- 
nished with  carpets,  cushions,  and  mattresses. 

This  apartment  we  entered  with  a  due  show  of  reluc- 
tance, knowing  that  in  walking  over  the  carpets  with 
our  big  riding-boots  we  were  outraging  the  most  re- 
vered customs  of  Moorish  society,  as  much  as  if  we  had 
entered  an  artistic  drawing-room  at  home,  and  pro- 
ceeded, in  presence  of  the  lady  of  the  house,  to  place  our 
mud-soiled  boots  on  the  best  ottomans  and  couches. 

At  the  moment  we  appeared  anything  but  prepos- 
sessing, in  contrast  to  the  cool  and  picturesquely 
dressed  Kaid  and  his  attendants.  Not  having  looked 
forward  to  any  particular  reception,  we  had  taken  no 
thought  of  the  clothes  we  had  on,  and  had  not  troubled 
ourselves  about  our  faces,  which  presented  a  villainous 
appearance  in  their  tawny  sunburnt  hues  and  scrubby 
unshavedness. 

These,  however,  were  small  matters  compared  with 
the  terrible  consciousness  that  now  took  possession  of 
us  that  our  hour  of  reckoning  had  come  at  last,  though 
we  fervently  hoped  that  it  might  be  staved  off  as  long 
as  possible. 


ACROSS  THE  riZI-N-TELUET.  2:1 

We  at  first  imagined  that  the  apartment  we  had 
entered  was  the  Kaid's  reception-room,  but  we  were 
speedily  made  aware  that  it,  witli  the  garden  and  tlie 
servants'  rooms  beyond,  now  formed  the  quarters  of 
favoured  guests. 

We  hailed  the  arrival  of  green  tea  with  plenti- 
ful supplies  of  cakes  and  dried  fruits  as  a  slight 
respite  before  the  subject  of  our  business  was 
broached. 

Politeness,  as  well  as  our  capacities,  forbade  us 
spending  more  than  a  reasonable  time  over  the  refresh- 
ment, and  then  an  awkward  pause  ensued.  The  Kaid 
was  waiting  to  receive  the  Sultan's  letter  and  learn 
the  object  of  our  mission. 

Further  delay  was  impossible,  and  the  letter  was 
reluctantly  drawn  forth  and  handed  to  our  host.  On 
seeing  the  Sultan's  seal,  he  kissed  and  touched  his  fore- 
head with  it  in  token  of  submission  to  the  Sharifiau 
will.  He  then  passed  it  on  to  his  fcki,  or  secretary,  a 
tall  gaunt  man  of  wicked  aspect,  of  whom  we  feared 
the  worst.  This  gentleman  gravely  drew  forth  his 
spectacles,  and  having  adjusted  them  with  due  deli- 
beration, commenced  reading  the  missive.  As  sentence 
after  sentence  fell  from  his  lips  we  watched  their  faces 
with  some  anxiety,  but  not  a  muscle  betrayed  their 
thoughts  or  feelings.  When  finished,  the  fv/a  handed 
the  letter  back  to  the  Kaid,  who  received  it  indifferently. 
Nothing  was  said,  but  his  method  of  returning  us  the 
document  was  significant  enough,  lie  did  not  politely 
hand,  but  threw  it  to  us,  and   then,  without   a   word, 


222  MOROCCO. 

the  party  rose,  and  left  us  to  our  somewhat  gloomy 
cogitations. 

Later  on,  however,  we  were  cheered  by  the  arrival  of 
a  princely  mona.  With  it  came  polite  messages,  and 
then  we  knew  we  were  to  be  treated  hospitably,  what- 
ever else  might  be  our  fate. 


(      223      ) 


CHAPTER  XVI. 

THE  K  A  SB  AH  OF  TELUET. 

At  Teluet  we  were  in  the  very  heart  of  unexplored 
regions.  Northward,  toward  the  yet  unsealed  summits 
of  the  Atlas  to  the  south,  lay  the  but  little  known 
basin  of  the  l)ra,  and  to  right  and  left  extended  the 
untouched  regions  of  Moharram  and  Tifnut.  To  all  of 
these,  routes  led  from  Teluet,  and  over  them  El  Madani 
claimed  to  be  Kaid,  with  more  or  less  power  of  assert- 
ing his  authority.  Of  all  these  geographical  attractions, 
none  claimed  our  attention  more  than  the  district  lead- 
ing west-south-west  over  the  mountainous  regions  of 
Tifnut  to  the  Sous  valley.  This  seemed  to  promise 
most  hope  of  successful  exploration,  and  certainly  offered 
the  richest  harvest  of  interesting  facts,  and  the  route 
which  lay  through  it  was  the  one  we  finally  determined 
to  adopt. 

It  was,  however,  of  the  utmost  importance  to  dis- 
semble. To  have  at  once  announced  our  plans  would 
have  led  to  unpleasant  wrangles,  with  no  certainty  of 
coming  out  victorious,  and  the  possibility  of  being 
prevented  from  even  doing  anything  in  our  immediate 
neiglibourhood.  It  would  be  soon  enougli  to  speak 
when  the  time  arrived  to  start. 


224  MOROCCO. 

There  was  another  reason  for  keeping  quiet.  Ea- 
madan  (the  month  of  fasting")  was  drawing  towards  a 
close,  and  till  that  was  over  little  could  be  done. 

But  though  we  thus  assumed  the  air  of  men  who 
had  reached  their  land  of  promise,  and  had  no  desire 
to  rove  farther  into  the  wilds,  our  men  were  not  to  be 
deceived.  They  had  no  idea  of  our  plans,  but  they 
clearly  understood  that  we  wanted  to  go  farther,  and 
this  they  determined  to  thwart  at  all  costs. 

On  the  second  day  after  our  arrival,  Abdarachman 
commenced  inciting  the  only  too  easily  roused  moun- 
taineers against  us.  He  laughed  at  them  for  giving 
infidel  nobodies  like  ourselves  such  a  grand  reception, 
and  declared  we  ought  to  be  chased  out  of  the  country. 
This  was  too  much  even  for  his  fellow-servants,  and  Zem- 
rani,  one  of  our  Saffi  men,  in  whom  we  had  recently 
been  inclined  to  place  some  confidence,  promptly  in- 
formed us  of  Abdarachman's  evil  machinations.  His 
unexpected  virtue,  however,  was  due  less  to  regard  for 
our  safety  than  to  fear  of  the  possible  consequences  to 
himself  if  a  popular  outbreak  took  place. 

Of  more  sinister  import  were  the  frequent  clan- 
destine meetings  between  Abdul  Kader,  our  personal 
servant,  and  the  Kaid.  We  knew  that  these  meetings 
could  have  but  one  object,  that  is,  to  learn  everything 
possible  about  us  on  the  one  hand,  and  to  misrepresent 
our  objects  and  importance  with  the  object  of  getting 
us  sent  back,  on  the  other.  At  the  time,  we  had  no 
means  of  knowing  what  was  actually  said  ;  but  our  men 
were  as  treacherous  to  each  other  as  to  us,  and  when 


THE  KASDAII  OF  TELUET.  225 

too  late  to  be  of  any  use,  we  learned  that  Abdul  Kadcr 
told  the  most  outrageous  lies — such,  indeed,  as  could 
only  be  believed  in  a  country  like  Morocco,  where 
there  exists  alongside  the  most  unparalleled  mendacity 
the  most  stupendous  credulity. 

It  was  represented,  for  instance,  that  if  we  were 
allowed  to  go  farther,  we  would  intentionally  lose  or 
pretend  to  lose  a  mule,  and  then  declare  that  it  was 
loaded  with  gold  and  silver,  which  we  would  demand 
from  the  Kaid. 

Of  the  effect  of  these  stories  we  saw  no  outward 
sign.  In  the  matter  of  dissimulation  we  were  no  match 
for  El  Madani.  He  was  content  to  wait  till  we  showed 
our  hand.  But  while  he  waited  he  proved  himself  the 
prince  of  hosts  and  entertainers. 

Having,  like  a  good  Moslim,  seen  the  hand  of  Provi- 
dence in  our  reaching  Teluet  in  defiance  of  the  Shari- 
fian  orders,  he  accepted  the  situation  accordingly. 
Whether  it  was  written  that  we  were  to  go  on  or  to 
go  back  remained  to  be  seen. 

Meanwhile,  he,  like  ourselves,  put  aside  disagreeable 
questions  and  became  our  constant  visitor.  He  was 
never  tired  asking  questions  about  Europe  and  Euro- 
pean ways.  Much,  however,  that  we  told  him  was  of 
a  nature  that  no  Moor  could  understand.  It  seemed 
incredible,  for  instance,  that  wealthy  and  powerful 
people  should  be  content  with  only  one  wife  each,  to 
whom  they  must  remain  attached  all  their  lives.  It 
was  quite  beyond  his  comprehension  that  people  like 
ourselves  should  go  travelling  about  the  world  unat- 

P 


226  MOROCCO. 

tended  by  even  one  ministering  angel,  although  that 
again  was  even  less  strange  than  that  we  should  travel 
about  at  all,  suffering  various  hardships  and  dangers 
— for  what  ?      A  few  flowers,  or  some  such  trifles ! 

He,  however,  was  no  more  astonished  at  our  ex- 
traordinary moral  and  social  codes  than  were  we  at 
the  state  of  things  he  revealed  as  existing  in  Morocco. 
It  was  difficult  to  grasp  the  fact,  which  had  been 
gradually  boring  its  way  into  our  minds  with  growing 
knowledge  of  Moorish  life,  that  absolutely  the  most 
religious  nation  on  the  face  of  the  earth  was  also  the 
most  grossly  immoral.  In  no  sect  is  faith  so  absolutely 
paramount,  so  unweakened  by  any  strain  of  scepticism, 
as  among  the  Mohammedans  of  Morocco.  Among  no 
people  are  prayers  so  commonly  heard  or  religious 
duties  more  rigidly  attended.  Yet  side  by  side  with 
it  all,  rapine  and  murder,  mendacity  of  the  most 
advanced  type,  and  brutish  and  unnatural  vices  exist 
to  an  extraordinary  degree. 

These  strange  anomalies  are  not  confined  to  any  one 
class.  From  the  Sultaii  down  to  the  loathsome,  half- 
starved  beggar,  from  the  most  learned  to  the  most 
illiterate,  from  the  man  who  enjoys  the  reputation  of 
utmost  sanctity  to  his  openly  infamous  opposite,  all  are 
alike  morally  rotten.  Punctilious  performance  of  cere- 
monial duties,  acknowledged  acceptance  of  orthodox 
tenets,  these  are  everything  in  INIoorish  religion.  Moral 
conduct  counts  as  next  to  nothing.  Kindred  views  are 
not  unheard  of  nearer  home,  but  in  INIorocco  they  are 
carried  to  their  utmost  limit. 


THE  KASDAII  OF  TELUET.  227 

It  was  an  interesting  if  revolting  experience  to 
witness  a  Moor  reverently  bending  in  prayer  before 
the  One  God,  compassionate  and  merciful,  suddenly 
stop  short  in  the  midst  of  his  orisons  to  scream  a  curse 
or  some  foul  obscenity  at  a  bystander  who  might  have 
roused  his  wrath.  Still  worse  to  see  him  pause  in  the 
midst  of  some  beastly  orgy  and  hasten  to  attend  the 
summons  of  the  Mueddin,  to  return  the  minute  after 
"  like  the  dog  to  his  vomit,  and  the  sow  that  has  been 
washed  to  his  wallowing  in  the  mire."  The  Moor 
who  would  lose  his  character  by  eating  meat  not  slain 
in  the  orthodox  way  would  escape  with  small  censure 
for  foully  murdering  a  man  ;  and  envy,  malice,  and  all 
uncharitableness,  with  theft  and  adultery  superadded, 
would  be  held  as  venial  sins  compared  with  failing  to 
acknowledge  the  Prophet  and  the  Koran,  or  neglect  of 
the  saying  of  prayers. 

These  facts  were  brought  home  to  us  with  ever- 
increasing  force  in  connection  with  the  Kaid  and  his 
attendants.  They  had  no  hesitation  in  telling  that 
their  ideal  of  a  happy  earthly  existence  consisted  in 
having  an  unlimited  selection  of  women  at  their  com- 
mand, abundance  of  everything  that  ministered  to  the 
brutish  and  sensual  side  of  their  nature,  and  absolutely 
nothing  to  do — no  work,  no  responsibilities,  no  thoughts 
even,  if  these  were  in  any  way  troublesome. 

Nothing,  perhaps,  revealed  more  strikingly  how 
thoroughly  these  principles  of  life  were  carried  out  by 
those  who  had  the  power  than  what  we  heard  about 
the  Kaid's  late  brother.      It  was  said  of  him  by  the 


228  MOROCCO. 

Jews  of  Toluet  that  he  had  seduced  300  Shcllach 
maidens.  Tliis  may  be  an  exaggeration  ;  but  even  if 
his  victims  bo  estimated  at  only  half  the  number  men- 
tioned, the  case  would  still  be  a  frightful  one.  For 
this  dishonour  to  their  daughters  the  mountaineers 
could  get  no  redress,  because  the  Kaid  himself  was  about 
as  deeply  implicated  as  his  brother ;  which  means  that 
scarcely  a  girl  in  the  neighbourhood,  on  arriving  at 
womanhood,  escaj)ed  one  or  other  of  them.  And  all 
this,  it  must  be  remembered,  among  a  people  where 
virtue  is  still  something  more  than  a  name  ;  where, 
indeed,  prior  to  the  establishment  of  the  Moorish 
power,  seduction  or  adultery  would  have  been  punished 
by  stoning  to  death. 

Such  is  the  blighting  influence  which  Moorish  mis- 
government  is  everywhere  casting  over  these  brave  in- 
dustrious mountaineers.  Up  every  glen  this  huge  blood- 
sucking octopus  is  pushing  its  horrible  feelers,  instinct 
with  the  lust  of  power,  dragging  village  after  village 
from  its  contented  and  independent  isolation  to  feed 
with  its  life-blood  the  rapacious  appetite  of  the  bloated 
monster.  In  some  places  the  old  independence  is  still 
maintained,  and  there,  though  almost  starved  into  sub- 
mission, the  Shellach  fight  desperately  for  home  and 
freedom. 

Elsewhere,  though  far  from  being  reduced  to  the 
semi-serfdom  or  subjected  to  the  extreme  oppression 
and  spoliation  of  the  Arabs  of  the  lowlands,  the  former 
independent  life  is  being  gradually  crushed  out  of 
them.      Their  flocks   and   herds  are  rapidly  dwindling 


THE  KASDAII  OF  TELUET.  229 

under  llie  exactions  of  the  Kaids.  The  heaviness  of 
the  taxes  on  the  fruits  of  their  labour  is  taking  effect 
in  the  glens  as  in  the  plains,  with  the  consequence  that 
groves  are  less  cared  for,  irrigation  channels  are  be- 
coming choked,  and  the  toilsomely  made  terraces  left 
to  fall  to  ruin.      This,  however,  by  the  way. 

Among  the  Raid's  usual  attendants  were  his  right- 
hand  man,  Abdul  Kader,  and  his  secretary.  Si  Moham- 
med. The  former,  as  became  a  great  man's  parasite 
and  favourite,  was  always  jovial  and  smiling,  ready  to 
make  the  Kaid's  tea,  or  to  enliven  the  conversation 
with  a  story  more  or  less  broad.  In  this  respect  their 
conversation  mirrored  their  lives.  Nothing  could  be 
more  frank  and  free  than  Abdul  Kader's  manner,  and 
we  thought  that  from  him  we  would  meet  with  but 
little  opposition  in  pursuing  our  plans. 

It  was  dift'erent  with  his  companion.  Si  ^Moham- 
med,  as  became  a  man  with  a  reputation  for  learning, 
preserved  a  reserved  and  austere  countenance,  which 
did  not  enhance  the  beauty  of  his  stern,  gaunt  features. 
With  him  the  conversation  was  always  instructive, 
though  on  many  points  about  which  we  should  have 
liked  information  he  seemed  to  be  quite  ignorant. 

There  was  one  subject  which  interested  us  greatly, 
namely,  the  question  how  far  Christianity  had  pene- 
trated into  those  wilds  in  pre-Mohammedan  days.  On 
this  head  the  traditions  extant  were  as  numerous  as 
they  were  vague.  Hardly  a  glen  but  had  its  so-called 
remains  of  the  "  Rum."  In  every  case  known,  the 
Rum  were  spoken  of  as  an  alien  ])eople,  who  had  pre- 


230  MOROCCO. 

viously  held  sway  over  the  Atlas,  and  uot  as  if  they 
were  the  ancestors  of  the  present  Berbers.  This,  of 
course,  may  have  been  largely  due  to  the  ]\[ohammedan 
objection  to  admit  having  in  any  way  been  connected 
with  the  hated  Christian.  Undoubtedly  the  moun- 
taineers considered  it  far  less  dishonouring  to  be  de- 
scended from  a  race  of  downright  idolaters  than  from 
Christians.  Hence  the  difficulty  of  getting  reliable  in- 
formation, and  the  reason  of  the  possible  non-existence 
now  of  any  traditions  throwing  light  on  the  subject. 

What  with  our  conversation  and  our  display  of 
scientific  instruments,  we  succeeded  in  impressing  our 
hosts  with  a  deep  sense  of  our  learning — a  reputation 
that  proved  somewhat  embarrassing,  when,  as  a  Hakim 
or  physician,  I  was  besieged  by  crowds  of  applicants 
for  cures  to  their  various  diseases.  Among  others,  the 
Raid's  chief  wife  was  a  patient  by  secret  proxy,  and 
showed  her  gratitude  for  our  medicine  by  sending  a 
present  of  a  pair  of  embroidered  slippers. 

Among  our  various  visitors  there  was  none  we  liked 
better  than  the  Kaid's  brother,  a  boy  of  some  fifteen 
years.  This  youth  showed  an  incredible  amount  of 
precocious  knowledge.  We  did  not  hesitate  to  draw 
him  out  about  the  secrets  of  the  domestic  life  of  his 
brother.  These  had  something  of  the  flavour  of  romance 
about  them,  for  we  heard  that  jealousy  was  not  un- 
known in  the  usually  well-disciplined  harem.  It 
seemed  that  the  Kaid's  life  was  not  altogether  a  happy 
one,  for  on  one  occasion  his  chief  wife  had  tried  to 
poison  him,  and  was  only  prevented   from  accomplish- 


rilE  K A  SDMI  OF  TELUET.  231 

ing  her  fell  design  by  a  lucky  accident.  It  was  this 
wife  whom  the  Kaid  afterwards  put  in  bonds  unwit- 
tingly supplied  by  us.  Having  an  unused  pair  of  iron 
horse-hobbles,  we  made  him  a  present  of  them,  and 
afterwards  discovered  that  he  employed  them,  not  for 
his  horses,  but  for  the  inmates  of  his  harem. 

We  were  let  into  a  good  many  more  of  the  details 
of  the  Raid's  in4nagc,  but  over  these  it  were  better  to 
draw  a  discreet  veil. 

Of  course,  while  we  thus  quietly  awaited  the  fit 
time  for  action,  we  were  not  confined  to  our  room. 
The  courts  and  passages  of  the  castle  afforded  us  end- 
less matters  of  interest.  It  was  not  only  in  respect 
of  its  architectural  features  that  the  Kasbah  realised 
all  our  ideas  of  what  a  feudal  castle  must  have  been 
in  the  olden  days.  In  everything  around  us  we 
saw  reflected  something  of  the  life  likewise.  Soldiers 
grouped  themselves  about  the  fortified  gateway  and  the 
guardrooms.  Slaves  and  servants  in  great  numbers 
dawdled  about  the  passages,  or  hastened  on  special 
business.  Mounted  messengers  left  the  castle  for 
INIorocco,  the  Sultan's  court,  or  a  distant  district ; 
others  came  bringing  news  of  petty  tribal  revolts,  of 
crimes  committed,  and  wroufjs  to  be  aven^'ed. 

Sheiks  and  headmen  of  tribes  arrived  daily  to  render 
an  account  of  their  affairs  or  to  arrange  for  some  raid. 
Hunting-parties  were  arranged,  and,  accompanied  by 
magnificent  packs  of  huge  boarhounds,  left  for  the 
bush  to  track  their  game,  or  for  the  mountain-tops  in 
the  more  arduous  pursuit  of  the  "  aoudad "  or  tiiou- 


232  MOROCCO. 

Jlon.  Hawking,  too,  was  iiululg-ed  in,  and  the  sports- 
men made  a  gay  show  as  they  pranced  out  of  the 
castle  on  goi'geonsly  bedecked  horses — only  no  lady 
fair  accompanied  them. 

In  two  courts  stood  fifty  splendid  barbs  always  ready 
for  action,  fitly  to  receive  a  friend  or  charge  an  enemy. 
Fifty  cooks,  in  relays  of  ten  daily,  worked  in  the 
kitchen  to  supply  the  wants  of  the  military  and  domestic 
household. 

No  wanderer  was  turned  from  the  gates.  Lavish 
hospitality  and  prodigal  profusion  reigned  everywhere. 
Once  a  week  a  market  was  held  in  the  neighbourhood, 
and  then  the  outer  courts  gave  shelter  to  those  who 
came  from  far  and  near,  and  the  travelled  hundreds 
were  fed  at  the  Raid's  expense. 

It  was,  in  truth,  no  mere  resemblance  to  a  scene  of 
the  feudal  times  that  we  saw  before  us,  but  the  feudal 
system  itself  in  full  force.  The  Kaid  was  but  a  lord 
appointed  by  the  Sultan  to  rule  over  certain  lands,  on 
condition  of  supplying  him  with  a  certain  number  of 
men  and  a  certain  amount  of  money,  and  bound  to  hold 
himself  in  readiness  to  join  his  liege's  standard  in  time 
of  war.  He  again  was  regarded  as  the  leader  by  the 
different  clans  who  came  under  his  jurisdiction.  To 
him  they  looked  for  justice  and  protection,  while  ready 
to  rise  in  arms  at  his  call,  and  to  supply  him  with 
supplies  in  kind  and  money.  The  whole  machinery  of 
government  was  sufficiently  simple.  The  Sultan  looked 
to  the  Kaid  solely  as  a  channel  through  which  to  collect 
men  and  money.      If  that  was  done  to  the  satisfaction 


rilE  KASDAIl  OF  TELUET.  233 

of  the  central  authorities,  no  questions  were  asked  about 
his  administration,  for  the  Kaid  existed  for  the  uses  of 
the  Sultan,  not  for  the  benefit  of  tlie  people.  As  for 
the  L'overnor,  as  became  a  ^[ussulinan,  he  ruled  accord- 
ing  to  the  legal  code  of  the  Koran,  that  is  to  say,  as  far 
as  that  code  did  not  interfere  with  his  own  personal 
interests  and  passions.  Nominally  the  people  could 
appeal  to  the  Sultan  if  his  rule  was  oppressive  or 
tyrannical ;  practically  that  was  impossible,  except  the 
Sultan  wanted  an  excuse  for  squeezing  him  of  his 
plunder. 

Apart  from  these  varied  and  interesting  siglits  and 
studies,  we  could  have  had  no  more  charming  place 
than  Teluet  in  which  to  spend  a  few  days  in  the  lotus- 
eating,  easy-going  style  of  the  Moors. 

The  early  summer  climate  of  the  little  mountain 
valley  is  simply  perfect.  The  temperature  usually  rises 
from  68°  in  the  early  morning  to  72°  in  the  shade 
after  noon.  The  heat  of  the  sun  is  at  all  times  tem- 
pered by  the  cool  winds  from  the  encircling  mountains. 
The  air  is  of  the  most  marvellous  purity.  Peaks 
twenty  or  thirty  miles  distant  seem  close  at  hand,  and 
the  highest  elevations  of  the  mountains  only  suggestive 
of  a  pleasant  morning's  constitutional.  The  slopes  of 
the  Atlas  when  in  shade  had  the  appearance  of  being 
covered  with  a  pall,  so  black  was  their  aspect  and 
utterly  hidden  their  rugged  irregularities.  The  sky, 
when  suddenly  looked  up  to,  had  all  the  aspect  of  a 
black  canopy,  so  blue  was  the  expanse  overhead. 

In   all  other  respects,  however,   Teluet   was   by   no 


234  MOROCCO. 

means  attractive.  Hardly  a  tree  or  bush  gave  variety 
to  its  semi-sterile  and  stony  fields.  Sucli  vegetation  as 
there  was,  grew  along  the  banks  of  the  streams,  or 
where  irrigation  channels  carried  water  over  the  ground, 
and  in  a  manner  forced  a  scanty  yield  of  grass  and 
corn.  The  extensive  garden  of  the  Kaid  was  the  sole 
redeeming  feature  to  the  monotonous  outlook,  and  in  it 
were  a  number  of  fruit  trees  and  flowers,  among  which 
the  Kaid  delighted  to  spend  the  afternoon  hours,  drink- 
ing tea  and  talking. 

The  valley  lies  at  an  elevation  of  6000  feet  above 
the  level  of  the  sea,  and  runs  parallel  with  the  Atlas. 
In  length  it  does  not  exceed  eight  miles,  and  in 
breadth  three.  On  the  north,  it  is  dominated  by  the 
abruptly  rising  main  ridge  of  the  range,  which  towers 
over  it  to  a  height  of  from  1 2,000  to  13,000  feet. 
On  the  south,  it  is  enclosed  by  the  escarpment  of  the 
Dra  plateau,  or  Anti- Atlas,  to  retain  the  term  applied 
to  the  heights  fronting  the  main  axis,  and  generally 
believed  to  be  a  secondary  range.  This  plateau,  where 
it  overlooks  Teluet,  attains  an  elevation  of  7300  feet. 
To  the  east,  the  encircling  walls  of  the  valley  present  a 
break,  thi'ough  which  is  seen  the  conspicuous,  compara- 
tively isolated,  dome-shaped  mass  of  Jebel  Unila,  which, 
I  should  say,  rises  to  a  height  of  at  least  12,000,  but 
may  be  a  thousand  feet  more.  Unila  is  described  as 
having  a  deep  lake  at  its  top,  which,  taken  in  connec- 
tion with  its  isolated  position  and  shape,  suggests  a 
volcanic  origin.  To  the  west,  the  mountains  form  a 
less  well-marked  and  abrupt  wall,  though  rising  from 


THE  KASDAH  OF  TELUET.  235 

7000  to  8000  leet  in  elevation.  Numerous  gorges 
and  glens  may  be  seen  cutting  their  way  through  the 
plateau,  drawing  the  rains  and  melting  snows  of  the 
higher  mountains  away  to  the  Dra,  and  farther  west  o 
the  Sus.  The  route  through  Tifnut  to  Gindafy  and  Has 
el  Wad  is  described  as  one  interminable  series  of  ascents 
and  descents  in  the  crossing  of  the  numerous  sharp 
mountain  ridges  and  deep  narrow  glens.  Over  this 
region  the  Kaid  of  Glauwa  holds  little  more  than  a 
nominal  sway.  Only  a  month  before  our  arrival,  a 
tribe  called  the  Ait  Umast  had  even  gone  so  far  as  to 
make  a  descent  on  Telnet ;  where,  however,  close  to  the 
castle,  they  were  defeated  with  a  loss  of  sixty  men. 

In  the  valley  itself  there  are  a  surprising  number  of 
villages,  to  most  of  which  ]\rellahs  are  attached.  Alto- 
gether there  cannot,  I  think,  be  less  than  500  families, 
and  probably  as  many  as  700,  or  some  3000  souls  in 
all.      Of  these,  600  to  800  are  Jews. 

One  of  our  first  excursions  after  our  arrival  at  Telnet 
was  to  the  plateau  to  the  south.  Crossing  the  Asif 
Marren,  we  immediately  commenced  the  ascent.  We 
remarked  the  sharp  foldings  of  the  purple,  grey,  and 
whitish  shales,  and  fine-grained  sandstones  which  com- 
posed the  plateau,  and  gave  some  rich  colouring  to 
the  scene.  We  saw  little  vegetation  of  any  kind,  till, 
Hearing  the  top,  we  found  ourselves  among  some  iso- 
lated arar  trees  of  considerable  size. 

The  view  from  the  summit  was  extensive,  and 
towards  the  north  imposing  in  the  extreme,  but  need 
not  be  dwelt  on  acrain,  as  the  characteristic  features  of 


236  MOROCCO. 

tlie  surroundings  of  Telnet  have  already  been  described. 
We  did  not  fail  to  notice,  however,  liow  sharply  the 
central  rang(^  rises  from  its  plateau  pediment,  and,  with- 
out spurs  or  terraces,  sweeps  np  to  a  height  of  from 
6000  to  7000  feet.  In  this  respect  it  differs  widely 
from  the  opposite  side  of  the  range,  except  over 
Demnat,  where  the  central  ridge  rises  witli  a  similar 
abruptness. 

This  sharp  crest  we  could  trace  unbroken  in  one 
grand  mountain  wall  as  far  west  as  the  part  overlook- 
ing Gindafy  and  Reraya.  The  view  to  the  south  is 
what  I  have  already  described  from  the  Tizi-n-Teluet — 
a  monotonous  melancholy  expanse.  One  feature,  how- 
ever, specially  attracted  our  gaze  on  turning  to  the 
south-west.  This  was  what  appeared  to  be  a  fine 
range  of  mountains,  fronting,  though  not  running 
parallel  to,  the  Atlas.  In  its  centre  the  range  rose  to 
a  conspicuous  elevation,  snow-streaked,  and  probably 
attaining  a  height  of  10,000  or  i  1,000  feet.  At  the 
moment,  we  thought  that  here  at  last  was  the  Anti- 
Atlas  range,  but  subsequent  observation,  together  with 
the  observations  of  De  Foucauld,  led  me  to  conclude 
that  though  this  was  what  had  been  called  the  Anti- 
Atlas,  it,  at  least  in  this  part,  was  not  a  range,  but  the 
southern  side  of  a  great  broad  valley,  cut  out  of  the 
Atlas  pediment  or  plateau  by  the  numerous  rivers 
flowing  to  the  Dra  and  the  Sus  from  the  main  range. 

One  of  the  most  interesting  sights  in  tlie  valley  of 
Teluet  is  its  caves,  which,  like  everything  strange  and 
inexplicable,  are  ascribed  to  the  lium.      These  lie  at 


THE  KASBAII  OF  TELUET.  237 

the  eastern  end  of  the  valley,  near  the  village  of  Tahu- 
gumt.  Proceeding  thither,  we  were  conducted  some 
little  way  up  the  Asif  ^larren,  to  where  a  high  clay 
cliff  overhangs  the  bed  of  the  stream.  Here  we  could 
descry  a  doorway  of  very  modern  aspect  surrounded 
by  a  stone  wall,  and  led  up  to  by  a  species  of  natural 
staircase. 

On  clambering  to  the  entrance,  we  found  a  passage 
to  the  right  of  the  door,  which  led  some  fifty  or  sixty 
feet  straight  into  the  heart  of  the  hill.  From  this 
passage  there  opened  sixteen  cells,  eight  on  either 
side.  These  were  all  excavated  after  the  same  pattern, 
and  measured  some  ten  feet  long  by  six  broad  and 
seven  high.  The  walls  and  roof  are  undoubtedly 
blackened  by  smoke,  though  whether  from  ordinary 
fires  or  a  conflagration  of  possible  corn  and  hay  stores 
it  is  impossible  to  sa}'.  In  front  of  each  cell  or  cham- 
ber there  is  a  hole  or  trap-door  giving  entrance  into  a 
species  of  cellar. 

The  caves  are  at  present  utilised  by  the  Jews  of 
Tabugumt  as  granaries,  and  this  may  have  been  their 
original  use,  though  on  this  point  no  information  could 
be  gleaned  from  tlie  natives.  We  could  discover 
nothing  conclusive  on  the  subject  in  the  caves  them- 
selves, but  what  we  did  see  gave  some  colour  to  the 
idea  that  the}'  might  have  been  used  either  as  cave- 
dwellings  or  as  granaries  rather  than  as  places  of 
sepulture. 

On  the  way  back  to  Tabugumt  we  noticed  the  pre- 
valence  of  particles  of  antimony   in   every   dii'ection. 


238  MOROCCO. 

and  made  a  collection  of  flowers  and  beetles  from  the 
meadow  wliicli  borders  the  stream. 

At  the  village  we  had  a  piteous  reception.  The 
Jews  crowded  round  me  with  their  halt  and  blind  and 
diseased,  in  hope  of  cures.  They  grasped  my  clothes 
with  nervous  fingers,  and  attempted  to  kiss  my  boots 
as  they  besought  me  to  give  them  medicines.  An  old 
woman — a  Moor,  if  I  rightly  recollect — carried  her 
supplicating  abasement  to  the  extent  of  drawing  her 
hand  across  the  sole  of  my  boot  and  then  kissing  it. 
Her  son  had  been  thrown  into  prison,  and  she  desired 
me  to  intercede  for  him  with  the  Kaid. 

The  Jews  of  Tabugumt,  as  in  the  mountains  gene- 
rally, proved  to  be  a  more  cleanly  people,  though  far 
from  being  ideally  so,  than  their  brethren  of  the  plains. 
We  found  here  an  extremely  neat  and  clean  white- 
washed synagogue,  quite  the  best  we  had  yet  seen. 

On  the  evening  of  our  return  from  visiting  the 
caves,  the  ill-feeling  exhibited  to  Shalum  by  his  Moorish 
companions  came  to  a  climax.  By  accident  we  dis- 
covered that  M'hamad,  the  cook,  though  a  Hadj  (pil- 
grim), had  been  surreptitiously  mitigating  the  hard- 
ships of  Ramadan  by  appropriating  to  his  own  uses 
milk  sent  to  us.  Taking  it  into  his  head  that  Shalum 
had  been  the  informant,  he  proceeded,  still  smarting 
from  the  rebuke  we  had  administered,  to  look  for  him. 
Finding  him  at  last  sitting  in  a  corner.  El  Hadj  went 
up  and  kicked  him  in  the  mouth,  cutting  Shalum's 
lip.  Shalum,  however  much  of  a  Jew,  could  not  stand 
that,  and  gave  his  assailant  a  l)low  that  sent  him  spin- 


THE  KASDAII  OF  TELUET.  239 

ning.  A  terrific  row  was  the  result.  El  Hadj,  like  the 
cowardly  bully  that  he  was,  raised  a  howl  that  Shalum 
had  been  cursing  their  holy  religion.  This  was  quite 
sufficient  to  bring  all  the  others  to  his  assistance, 
and,  yelling  and  screaming  like  a  pack  of  fighting-dogs, 
they  came  running  to  me,  Shalum  not  the  least  noisy 
among  them. 

It  was  with  difficulty  that  the  story  could  be  heard, 
but  I  was  not  long  in  determining  on  whose  side  lay 
the  blame,  and  at  once  made  tracks  for  my  hunting- 
crop. 

A  minute  later  Shalum  rushed  in  with  a  bleeding 
hand,  part  of  a  finger  cut  off'.  Hadj  had  attacked  him 
in  the  dark  and  tried  to  stab  him.  I  at  once  sent  to  the 
Kaid  to  have  the  offender  put  in  prison.  Hadj,  however, 
had  been  before  me  with  his  story,  that  he  had  only  been 
upholding  the  sanctity  of  their  holy  religion  against  the 
defiling  tongue  of  a  dog  of  a  Jew.  The  Kaid  was 
loth  under  these  circumstances  to  do  as  I  desired,  as 
indeed  it  was  disgraceful  to  throw  a  true  believer  into 
prison  for  any  crime  whatever  against  a  miserable  Jew. 
Getting  up  in  a  towering  rage,  I  seized  Hadj  by  the 
throat  and  shook  him  till  he  quaked  again,  and  then, 
still  holding  him,  I  turned  to  Abdul  Kader,  the  Kaid's 
messenger,  and  swore  that  if  he  was  not  put  in  prison 
forthwith,  I  should  myself  administer  the  thrashing  he 
so  richly  dcsei'ved.  This  would  have  been  a  crowning 
dishonour  for  any  good  Moslem  to  put  up  with,  and 
the  Kaid,  to  save  him  from  such  a  disgraceful  punish- 
ment, threw  Hadj  at  once  into  the  dungeon. 


240  MOROCCO. 

That  dungeon  must  have  been  a  horrible  place,  for 
the  vicious  brute  was  rendered  so  humble  by  a  single 
night  of  it,  that  he  kissed  my  hand  and  vowed  to  be 
a  good  boy  ever  afterwards,  on  being  let  out  on  the 
I'equest  of  the  Kaid, 


DAGGERS   AND    POWDER    HORN, 


(      241       ) 


CHAPTER  XVII. 

A  SCEN  T    OFT  A  U  K I R  T. 

From  the  day  of  uiir  arrival  at  Telnet  we  had  remarked 
a  conspieuous  peak  called  Taurirt,  a  short  distance  to 
the  east  of  the  Tizi-ii-Teluet.  This  did  not  appear  by 
any  means  the  highest  point  in  the  range,  but  it  was 
an  elevation  by  itself,  and  seemingly  fairly  approach- 
able, and  for  these  two  reasons  we  resolved  to  select  it 
for  our  first  attack  on  the  actual  Atlas  crest. 

The  I  3th  of  June  was  the  day  chosen  for  this  enter- 
prise. We  started  at  sunrise,  and  went  three  miles 
north-east  across  the  valley  to  the  village  of  Ait  llum- 
wali,  where  the  Kuid  has  a  second  castle,  almost  as 
well  built  and  imposing  as  that  at  CJlauwa.  Here  we 
got  a  guide,  who  carried  out  his  duties  by  keeping  out 
of  sight  in  the  rear  the  whole  way. 

Following  a  sheep  and  goat  track,  by  which  the 
herds  go  up  antl  down  the  mountain,  we  crossed  an 
outcrop  of  basalt,  whose  angle  of  dip  coincided  with 
that  of  the  sandstone  beds  between  which  it  lay.  A 
thin  division  of  shale  cut  the  basalt  into  two  beds. 
Hounding  a  small  ravine  cut  out  of  the  dividing  shales, 
we  speedily  reached  the  top  of  the  igneous  rocks,  where 

Q 


242  MOROCCO. 

we  found  that  a  second  ravine  marked  the  junction  of 
tlie  latter  and  the  red  sandstones,  which  formed  the  mass 
of  the  mountain.  Here  was  neitlier  grass  nor  bush, 
only  a  few  tufts  of  spring  plants,  and  in  sheltered 
nooks  one  or  two  flowers.  Rocky  desolation  reigned 
everywliere. 

The  outcropping  ends  of  the  highly  tilted  sandstone 
beds  presented  a  curious  step-like  arrangement,  due  to 
the  peeling  off,  as  it  were,  of  the  upper  beds,  which  in 
a  manner  showed  how  the  mountain  had  acquired  its 
conical  form. 

In  little  over  an  hour  we  had  attained  an  elevation 
of  2000  feet  above  the  valley. 

E/Ounding  the  corner  of  a  precipice,  we  found  our- 
selves confronted  with  a  fine  spectacle.  At  our  feet, 
and  running  westward  to  near  the  path  which  leads 
over  the  Tizi,  was  a  deep  gorge  cut  out  of  the  sand- 
stones. On  our  left  looking  east  rose  a  great  preci- 
pice facing  Taurirt.  On  our  right  towered  the  peak 
itself,  like  a  cyclopean  pyramid  streaked  with  snow, 
but  showing  little  else  than  grey  or  reddish  rocks. 
Between  the  two  spread  a  brilliant  patch  of  meadow,  all 
aglow  with  buttercups  and  watered  by  numerous  springs. 
No  garden  ever  seemed  more  lovely  than  did  at  the 
moment  that  acre  of  flowering  green  sward  ;  no  waste 
more  bare  and  blasted  than  its  walls  of  enclosing  rock. 

From  the  meadow  a  sharp  climb  over  rocks  and 
boulders  brought  us  among  the  snow-wreaths,  and 
speedily  we  were  on  the  summit  of  Taurirt,  at  an  ele- 
vation of  I  I,  I  So  feet. 


ASCENT  OF  TAURIRT.  243 

It  was  somewliat  annoying  to  find  our  view  blocked 
to  the  north  by  the  Adrar-n-Iri,  which  rose  in  a  flat- 
topped  mass  from  500  to  1000  feet  above  us.  We 
could,  however,  look  down  on  the  glen  of  Titula. 

From  the  point  we  had  attained  we  were  enabled 
to  guess  with  greater  approach  to  accuracy  the  height 
of  the  Atlas  in  our  vicinity. 

To  the  west,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  Tizi-n- 
Teluet,  there  was  no  mistaking  the  fact  that  the  cen- 
tral ridge  rose  far  above  us.  The  large  amount  of 
snow  which  still  lay  on  its  top  and  extended  far  down 
its  sides  was  in  itself  sufficient  proof.  In  that  region, 
and  including  Jebel  Glauwi,  part  of  which  we  could 
just  see,  I  calculate  that  the  Atlas  attains  a  height  of 
at  least  13,000  feet.  Farther  west  the  general  eleva- 
tion does  not  exceed  12,000  feet,  and  here  and  there 
may  be  even  a  little  less,  till  it  rises  once  more  over 
Reraya.  Eastward  probably  no  point  rises  above 
12,000,  if  so  much,  with  the  possible  exception  of 
Jebel  Aiachi  east  of  Demnat,  and  near  the  head 
of  the  Tessaout  the  height  sinks  to  10,000  feet 
or  less. 

Of  the  extensive  view  which  spread  out  before  us  it 
would  be  tedious  to  speak  again.  It  was  exactly  what 
we  had  seen  from  the  Tizi-n-Teluet,  but  with  a  wider 
horizon,  the  isolated  mass  of  Jebel  Unila  and  the 
range-like  elevation  of  the  Anti-Atlas — a  name  which  I 
retain  for  convenience — thrown  in.  More  interesting, 
certainly  more  pleasing,  was  it  at  the  moment  to 
discover  some  lovely  tufts  of  veronica  growing  in  the 


244  MOROCCO. 

slielter  of  the  rocks,  and  several  gooseberry  bushes 
among  the  crevices. 

Having  completed  our  observations,  we  commenced 
our  descent.  On  our  way  down  we  emplo3-ed  our- 
selves collecting  such  plants  and  beetles  as  we  could 
lay  hands  on.  It  was  very  disappointing,  however,  to 
find  not  more  than  fifteen  species  above  a  height  of 
8000  feet.  Here,  more  markedly  even  than  on  the 
northern  side  of  the  range,  the  scarcity  of  vegetation 
was  due  to  the  aridity  of  the  summer  climate,  hot 
desert  winds,  and  the  sterility  of  the  soil. 

"When  some  few  hundred  feet  from  the  top,  au  inci- 
dent happened  which  distracted  our  attention  from  our 
botanising,  and  afforded  fresh  proof,  if  that  were  needed, 
of  the  sort  of  men  with  whom  we  had  to  travel. 

Among  our  little  party  of  four  who  accompanied  us 
in  our  ascent  was  one  Sioma  from  Saffi,  who  so  far 
was  the  most  trusted  among  the  Moors  of  our  caravan, 
though  that  did  noL  mean  much.  On  reaching  Ait 
Humwali,  he  had  been  much  disgusted  at  having  in- 
trusted to  his  care  a  small  bag  containing  some  provi- 
sions. Though  weighing  only  a  very  few  pounds,  he 
tried  to  get  it  foisted  on  a  Shellach  on  the  promise  of 
payment  by  me.  The  Shellach  finding  that  I  would 
not  recognise  the  transaction,  gave  the  bag  back  to 
Sioma.  The  lazy  fellow  then  fell  into  a  towering  pas- 
sion, and  volubly  protested  against  having  to  carry 
anything  up  the  mountain.  To  all  the  clamour  he 
raised  we  paid  no  heed.  On  reaching  the  summit, 
Sioma  broke    once   more   into    a    storm,    although   for 


ASCENT  OF  TAURIRT.  245 

the  lite  of  1110  I  could  not  understund  wliy  ho  should 
make  so  much  trouble  over  such  a  trifle.  Finding 
me  imperturbable,  ho  suddenly  sard-:  into  silence,  and 
went  ofT  by  liimself  to  sulk  in  a  small  hollow  which 
conveniently  presented  itself.  When  we  left,  he  with 
the  guide  and  two  of  our  men  remained  behind.  As 
already  said,  we  had  descended  some  few  hundred  feet, 
and  were  absorbed  in  our  plant  and  beetle  collecting, 
when  we  were  arrested  by  a  shout  from  the  mountain- 
top.  With  difficulty  we  were  able  to  make  out  that 
Sioma  had  taken  ill,  and  that  I  was  wanted  to  go 
back  to  see  him.  There  was  a  suspicious  suddenness 
about  this  illness  which  did  not  tend  to  awaken  my 
sympathies,  and  as  I  did  not  sec  what  good  I  could  do 
even  if  I  were  beside  him,  and  knowing  also  that  he 
had  to  come  down  in  any  case,  I  merely  ordered  the 
others  to  help  him,  if  necessary,  to  come  to  me. 

A  few  minutes  later  the  party  at  the  top  could  be 
seen  commencing  their  descent,  Sioma  carefully  sup- 
ported by  his  companions,  llesuming  my  botanising, 
I  thought  no  more  about  him  as  I  peered  here  and 
there  for  plants,  and  turned  over  stones  for  beetles. 

Suddenly  a  startling  shout  rang  from  the  heights 
above.  Another  and  another  followed.  Electrified 
by  the  tone  of  the  cries,  I  hastily  looked  upward. 
To  my  astonishment,  there  was  the  erewhile  sick  man, 
Sioma,  tearing  down  the  dangerous  mountain-side  as  if 
possessed  by  ten  thousand  devils  driving  him  to  de- 
struction. His  ample  garments  floated  behind  him, 
and    high    overhead    he    brandished    a    stick.      From 


246  MOROCCO. 

boulder  to  boulder  and  rock  to  rock  lie  leaped  with 
all  the  agility  of  a  goat,  and  ever  as  he  ran  he  made 
the  welkin  ring  with  mad  outcries.  After  him,  but 
more  carefully,  came  the  other  three  men,  shouting  to 
him  to  stop  his  headlong  career. 

C.-B.  and  I  stood  aghast,  riveted  by  the  extraordi- 
nary spectacle,  wondering  what  delirium  had  seized  the 
man,  and  expecting  each  moment  to  see  a  terrible  fall. 
Our  attendants,  equally  astonished,  ejaculated,  "  God  is 
great !  "  "  God  the  Merciful  !  "  "  The  Eternal !  "  and  a 
dozen  other  exclamatory  phrases,  as  at  each  leap  they 
expected  to  see  a  collapse  and  hear  of  a  broken  head 
or  limb. 

For  a  moment  I  thought  that,  seized  by  a  fit  of 
madness,  he  was  making  for  us  with  murderous  intent. 
But  while  we  watched  his  miraculous  progress,  he 
suddenly  stopped  short,  raised  Lis  arms  overhead,  and 
then  sank  out  of  sight  among  the  stones. 

In  a  few  minutes  his  pursuers  were  beside  him,  and 
we  could  see  them  bending  over  and  finally  assisting 
him  to  his  legs.  We  drew  a  breath  of  relief  when  we 
saw  that  at  least  he  was  not  dead — no  bones  broken 
even,  to  judge  from  the  way  in  which,  with  some 
assistance,  he  came  down  the  mountain.  AVe  now 
hurriedly  cut  across  the  slope  to  meet  him  in  his 
descent  and  see  what  was  wrong.  The  group  had 
arrived  at  the  buttercup  meadow  before  I  reached  them, 
and  there  lay  Sioma  squealing  like  a  pig  and  shaking 
all  over  as  if  with  ague. 

Hurriedly    I    felt    his    pulse  ;    it  was    normal.       I 


ASCENT  OF  TAURIRT.  247 

placed  my  hand  011  liis  brow ;  it  was  quite  cool — 
wondrously  cool  considering  the  run  lie  had  just  had. 
I  stood  for  a  moment  perplexed.  Then  the  truth 
began  to  dawn  upon  me.  All  this  was  nothing  more 
nor  less  than  an  exhibition  of  temper,  let  off  in  the 
hope  of  being  exempted  from  all  further  mountain- 
climbing,  to  which  all  my  followers  had  a  very  decided 
aversion. 

When  I  curtly  said  that  he  was  only  shamming,  and 
bade  the  men  leave  him  alone,  they  looked  indignant 
at  my  infidel  brutality. 

Not  desirous  of  pushing  matters  too  far,  in  case 
there  really  was  some  little  thing  wrong,  before  resum- 
ing my  botanising  I  ordered  them  to  assist  Sioma  on 
to  a  mule  which  the  Sheik  of  Ait  Humwali  had 
brought  with  him  half  way  up  the  mountain.  On 
their  trying  to  do  so,  he  screamed  as  if  in  the  greatest 
agony,  and  had  to  be  laid  down  again.  It  was  new  to 
my  experience  to  learn  that  a  strong  healthy  man  could 
become  a  prey  to  delirium  in  the  course  of  twenty 
minutes,  and  be  free  from  it  again  in  five ;  for  by  this 
time  the  patient  showed  no  traces  of  any  mental 
wandering.  The  more  I  thought  of  it,  the  more  certain 
I  was  that  the  whole  thing  was  a  pretence.  I  there- 
fore ordered  the  men  to  leave  him  alone  and  let  him 
come  round  by  himself.  With  great  reluctance  they 
obeyed  and  followed  me.  For  a  time  Sioma  lay  still, 
then  hearing  no  sounds  about  him,  he  looked  up.  His 
cure  began  to  work  rapidly  when  he  saw  us  fast  retreat- 
ing down  the   mountain-side.      Ho  was  next  seen  to 


248  MOROCCO. 

struggle  to  his  feet  as  it'  in  great  pain,  and  begin  to 
hobble  after  us.  His  groans  came  at  intervals  to  our 
ears,  making  my  men  doubtful,  but  leaving  me  obdurate. 

Finding  that  he  was  not  making  sufficient  progress, 
the  groans  began  to  abate  and  his  pace  to  increase, 
and  by  the  time  we  reached  the  village  where  we  had 
left  our  mules,  he  was  almost  up  with  us.  By  way  of 
preserving  some  show  of  illness,  he  entered  Ait  Hum- 
wali  still  leaning  heavily  on  his  stick,  and  with  many 
heartrending  sig^hs  and  moans.  The  mules  were 
brought  forward.  Sioma  looked  to  the  men  to  help 
him  to  mount.  This  they  were  about  to  do  when 
they  were  sternly  commanded  to  desist,  and  a  savage 
glance  shot  from  the  sick  man's  eye  as  he  saw  himself 
baffled  on  every  hand. 

We  were  just  about  to  start  when  with  one  agile 
bound  this  malade  imaginaire  vaulted  to  his  place 
beside  Abdarachman,  and  amid  roars  of  laughter  we 
left  Ait  Humwali,  the  most  obtuse  of  our  men  seeing 
how  thorough  the  sham  had  been. 

In  the  good  spirits  produced  by  the  successful  ascent 
of  the  mountain  and  the  ludicrous  exposure  of  Sioma's 
pretended  illness,  C.-B.  and  I  had  a  mule-race.  We 
were  only  provided  with  pack-saddles,  and  had  men 
seated  behind  us.  The  result  was  somewhat  ignomi- 
nious for  me.  Zeraraui,  who  was  my  fellow-rider, 
suddenly  swayed,  and  as  he  was  holding  on  to  me,  I 
Avas  overbalanced.  The  mule  at  the  same  time  swerved, 
and  the  next  moment  Zemrani  and  I  both  came  head- 
long to  the  ground,  and  the  race  accordingly  ended. 


ASCHNT  OF  TAURIRT. 


249 


Not  tho  least  iiitei'csting  among  our  exploratory 
strolls  in  tho  neighbourhood  of  Glauwa  were  our  visits 
to  the  Mellah  close  to  the  castle. 

Nowhere,  perhaps,  is  the  astounding  persistency  of 
type  and  the  tenacity  of  race  more  remarkably  shown 
than  amontj:  these  mountain  Jews.     For  unknown  cen- 


AII.AS   JtWS. 


turies  they  liavo  lived  an  alien,  hated,  and  despised 
race  among  the  mountain-fastnesses  of  the  Atlas,  with- 
out losing  in  one  particular  their  distinguishing  physical 
characteristics.  Their  manners  and  customs  have  alike 
remained  untainted  by  contact  with  the  followers  of 
Islam   who  surround   them,   and   the  general   wave   of 


2SO  MOROCCO. 

progress  wliich  has  affected  their  brethren  in  more 
civilised  lands.  Persecution  and  hatred  have  only  had 
the  effect  of  bindinpf  them  more  closely  together,  of 
making  them  stick  all  the  more  tenaciously  to  every 
tenet  and  ordinance  of  their  creed,  and  strengthening 
their  conviction  that  they  are  the  chosen  people  of  God. 
No  matter  where  the  traveller  comes  in  contact  with 
the  Jews  of  Morocco,  whether  it  be  in  Mogador,  or  the 
city  of  Morocco,  or  in  Tabugumt  in  Telnet,  he  feels  the 
moment  he  enters  a  Mellah  that  he  is  among  a  people 
as  sharply  marked  off  in  appearance,  manners,  cus- 
toms, and  religion  from  the  people  outside  the  gate  as 
is  the  Englishman  from  the  Chinaman  on  the  other 
side  of  the  globe.  The  Mellah  may  consist  of  only  six 
families,  as  in  an  Atlas  village,  or  of  hundreds,  as  in 
the  city  of  Morocco,  yet  the  distinction  is  equally 
marked  and  absolute.  Your  ways  are  not  my  ways,  nor 
your  God  my  God.  We  have  no  point  in  common. 
Yours  may  be  the  power  in  this  world,  and  ours  the 
shame  and  servitude ;  but  in  the  world  to  come  our 
portion  will  be  Paradise  and  yours  hell  and  all  its 
terrors.  These  are  the  ideas  in  which  the  Jews  en- 
velop themselves — ideas  that  have  gathered  round  them 
as  the  stony  petrifying  crust  from  calcareous  springs 
gathers  around  the  twigs  and  moss  on  their  brink. 
They  are,  in  fact,  animated  fossils,  phenomenal  sur- 
vivals of  a  former  great  nation  and  religion. 

Spite  of  the  bad  impression  of  the  Moorish  Jew  we 
had  carried  with  us  from  the  cities — and  on  this  point 
we  shall  have   something  to  say  in  another  chapter — 


ASCENT  OF  TAURIRT.  251 

we  could  not  but  mete  out  a  measure  of  admiration 
and  compassion  to  his  brother  of  the  mountains.  Here 
he  did  not  present  himself  in  the  revoltingly  dirty 
guise  we  had  become  familiar  with  in  Mogador  and 
Demnat ;  nor  was  he  the  repulsive  parasite,  feeding 
upon  the  cancerous  sores  of  the  diseased  country,  which 
we  had  in  most  places  found  him  to  be.  On  the  con- 
trary, he  revealed  himself  as  a  hardy,  useful,  and  hard- 
working member  of  the  dual  community.  In  the  moun- 
tains he  showed  himself  as  a  small  but  enterprising 
trader,  who  faced  extreme  dangers  and  hardships  in 
passing  from  tribe  to  tribe  and  market  to  market,  to 
collect  on  the  one  hand  wool,  hides,  oil,  walnuts,  and 
almonds,  and  sell  or  barter  these  on  the  other  for  a  little 
tea  and  sugar,  cotton,  and  the  various  articles  required 
to  supply  the  simple  wants  of  the  mountaineers.  In 
other  cases  he  attended  the  soI:s  or  markets  simply  in 
his  capacity  as  blacksmith,  cobbler,  or  tailor. 

It  must  not  be  supposed,  however,  that  the  Jew  can 
travel  about  with  impunity  merely  in  his  character  as 
a  Jew  bent  on  a  useful  errand.  He  travels  safely  as 
being  one  under  the  protection  of  a  Shellach.  Each 
Jew  of  the  Atlas — except  where  under  the  immediate 
protection  of  a  Kaid,  as  at  Telnet,  is  compelled  to 
secure  for  himself  a  sid — i.e.,  lord  or  master — to 
whom  he  becomes  practically  a  serf  or  slave,  on  the 
principle  that  it  is  better  to  be  plundered  by  one  man 
than  by  everybody.  The  sid  undertakes  to  see  that 
no  one  maltreats  him  more  than  may  be  permitted  to 
a  trood  Mussulman  bent  on  asserting:  that  there  is  no 


252  MOROCCO. 

God  but  the  one  (Moslem)  God.  A  reasonable  latitude 
is  allowed  in  this  respect.  In  the  matter  of  plundering, 
however,  the  ski  is  more  particular,  for  then  the  affair 
begins  to  touch  his  own  pocket.  The  Jew's  gains  are 
his  gains,  and  therefore  for  any  one  to  rob  his  Jew  is 
to  rob  himself,  which  is  what  no  sid  could  stand. 

Of  course  there  is  no  limit  to  the  sid's  exactions  but 
his  own  prudence  and  foresight.  He  therefore  spares 
his  Jew  much  as  the  Abyssinian  spares  the  live  bullock 
from  whose  quivering  haunch  he  cnts  his  daily  steak, 
stopping  just  short  of  the  point  where  his  usefulness 
and  power  of  gain  might  be  impaired.  He  works 
him  judiciously,  and  assists  him  as  much  as  possible  to 
make  money,  knowing  that  in  the  long-run  it  will  all 
come  into  his  own  coffers.  And  strive  to  make  money 
the  Jew  necessarily  must,  first  because  it  is  in  the 
blood,  and  not  to  do  so  would  mean  atrophy  and  death  ; 
and  secondly,  because  if  he  fails  in  this,  his  first  duty 
to  his  superiors,  his  disgusted  sid,  will  suddenly  cut 
up  rough  some  day  and  seize  everything  that  belongs 
to  him.  Nor  from  this  state  of  things  can  the  Jew 
escape.  True,  he  might  himself  escape,  but  only  by 
deserting  his  family  and  goods,  and  laying  open  his 
relations  to  severe  exactions.  To  prevent  desertion  no 
Jew  is  ever  allowed  to  travel  anywhere  with  his  wife  and 
family.  If  he  goes  on  a  journey,  these  are  always  held 
as  hostages  for  his  return.  Even  the  marriage  of  a 
Jew's  daughter  is  a  source  of  income  to  the  sid,  for  the 
intended  bridegroom  must  ransom  her  for  a  sum  pro- 
portionate to  his  reputed  wealth. 


ASCENT  or  TAUKIRT.  253 

Under  these  circumstaiice.s  the  hfc  oi"  the  Alhis  Jew 
becomes  a  burcleu  to  him,  or  rather  would  be  a  burden, 
but  that,  broug-ht  up  to  it,  ami  never  seeing  any  reiiec- 
tion  of  a  IVeer  lite,  he  adapts  himself  to  the  situation — 
all  the  more  uncomplainingly  that  he  sees  in  his  miser- 
able condition  only  God's  punishment  for  the  inherited 
sins  of  his  foivlUthcrs,  and  at  the  same  time  nourishes 
the  belief  that  fur  his  tormentors  a  day  of  reckoning  is 
coming.  Then  it  will  be  the  Jew's  turn.  His  oppressor 
will  be  thrown  into  hell-lire,  where,  from  his  heavenly 
throne,  his  whilom  victim  will  joyfully  watch  him  as 
he  stews  and  frizzles  side  by  side  witli  the  arch-tiend 
Mohammed  and  all  the  devil-saints  of  Morocco. 

The  dress  of  the  mountain  Jew  is  the  same  as  that 
of  the  Sliellach,  with  the  exception  of  the  black  slippers 
and  the  greasy  black  fez,  which  is  almost  always  doubled 
in  at  the  crown.  They  are  without  exception  slenderly 
built,  thin-faced,  and  spare  of  form,  but  evidently  wir\\ 
The  nose  is  distinctly  aquiline  as  a  rule,  and  the  eyes 
are  keen  black  or  brown.  The  Atlas  Jew  is  rarely 
seen  Avithout  his  love-locks  hanging  from  the  tem])les. 
The  persistency  of  the  Jewish  type  is,  of  course,  due  to 
the  fact  that  they  never  marry  outsiders.  The  excep- 
tions to  this  rule  are  so  rare,  that  the  case  of  a  Jewess 
having  married  a  Moor  at  Tikirt,  on  the  Wad  Dra,  con- 
vulsed the  whole  Jewish  conniiunitv  in  the  mountains. 
In  the  coast-towns  cases  of  Jewesses  marrying  Moors 
are  less  rare. 

The  nationality  of  the  Jewish  women  of  the  moun- 
tains  is   much   less  easily  recognised  than  that  of  the 


254  MOROCCO. 

men.  They  dress  exactly  the  same  as  the  Shellach 
women.  They  wear  a  single  sheet  of  woollen  or  cotton 
cloth  wound  round  the  body,  the  ends  meeting  over  the 
breast,  where  they  are  attached  by  two  silver  clasps  of 
quaint  design.  Underneath  they  wear  other  garments 
according  to  the  time  of  the  year.  The  upper  sheet 
is  further  fastened  and  adorned  by  thick  cords  in  gay 
colours  coiled  round  the  waist.  Strings  of  gaudy  beads 
and  silver  coins  adorn  the  neck.  On  the  head  are  worn 
two  brightly-coloured  handkerchiefs — one  spread  over 
the  head  and  hanging  down  the  neck  to  conceal  the 
hair,  the  other  tied  round  the  head  to  form  a  band. 

The  hair  is  generally  dripping  with  henna,  the  com- 
mon cosmetic  among  the  Shellach,  who  use  it  to  such 
an  extent  that  it  trickles  over  the  face  and  neck  and 
down  upon  the  shoulders,  with  results  that  may  be 
better  imagined  than  described.  On  Sundays  and 
gala-days  they  paint  the  brow,  nose,  cheek,  and  chin  in 
various  designs.  The  eyebrows  are  frequently  shaved 
to  the  merest  line  and  painted  black.  The  Jewesses 
have  all  magnificent  eyelashes. 

In  the  Mellah  at  Teluet  we  saw  several  child-wives. 
Some  of  these  very  young  girls  were  rather  piquant 
and  attractive  in  their  appearance,  but  we  saw  no 
Jewess  above  twenty  that  we  desired  to  look  upon 
a  second  time. 

Neither  at  Teluet  nor  anywhere  else  did  we  ever 
hear  anything  about  a  tribe  of  warrior  Jews  of  which 
we  had  seen  mention  in  books. 


(    255    ) 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 

INCIDENTS  OF  LIFE  AT  TELUET. 

On  the  evening  of  the  i  itli  June  every  one  was  on  the 
alert  for  the  appearance  of  the  new  moon,  which  would 
announce  the  end  of  lianiadan,  the  month  of  fasting. 
The  walls  and  house-tops  were  crowded  by  eager 
gazers,  and  everywhere  were  groups  of  mountaineers 
gazing  intently  towards  the  west  to  see  the  silvery 
crescent  emerfife  from  the  afterglow  of  the  summer  sun. 

The  blessed  sign  at  length  rejoiced  the  hearts  of 
the  pious  Moslems,  and  universal  joy  was  displayed. 
Women  trilled  out  their  shrill  screams  from  the  house- 
tops, and  men  shouted  loud  congratulations  to  each 
other,  and  danced  about,  firing  off  their  guns  in  the 
most  reckless  manner.  Thereafter  they  betook  them- 
selves to  their  devotions,  men  on  all  sides  prostrating 
themselves  in  the  dust,  and  muttering  prayers  the 
while. 

The  following  day  was  kept  as  a  grand  holiday  and 
time  of  rejoicing.  Those  who  could  afford  it  donned 
new  clothes,  and  men  and  women  alike  arrayed  them- 
selves in  their  best. 

From  early  morning  all  the   poor  people   of  Telnet 


256  MOROCCO. 

kept  flocking  into  the  castle,  ^YLere  barley  was  distri- 
buted with  no  stinted  measure.  Sheiks  mounted  on 
horses  or  mules  arrived  from  far  and  near,  bringing 
with  them  presents  in  money  or  kind  for  the  Kaid,  who 
sat  in  state  all  morning  to  receive  the  same,  as  well 
as  the  congratulations  and  compliments  of  his  friends. 

After  breakfast  we  went  ourselves  to  call  upon  our 
host.  We  found  him  occupying  a  small  suite  of  rooms 
over  the  inner  gateway.  These  apartments,  which, 
formed  the  reception-rooms  of  the  Kaid,  were  orna- 
mented very  effectively,  though  somewhat  gaudily  with 
painted  arabesque. 

El  Madani  seemed  exceedingly  happy.  He  welcomed 
us  eflusively  and  conducted  us  to  his  place  at  the  end 
of  the  room.  All  his  kinsmen  and  Sheiks  sat  round  the 
wall  in  dignified  silence.  After  the  proper  congratula- 
tions and  compliments  we  took  our  leave. 

lu  the  afternoon  we  were  called  back  to  witness  a 
grand  native  entertainment  expressly  got  up  by  the 
Kaid  for  our  benefit.  All  the  male  musicians  as  Avell 
as  the  women  of  the  neighbourhood  had  been  requisi- 
tioned to  dance  and  sing  before  us,  and  in  response  to 
the  summons  scores  of  women  had  flocked  into  the 
castle  to  act  either  as  performers  or  onlookers. 

From  an  embrasure  in  the  defending  wall  of  a  roof 
we  were  enabled  to  see  the  performance  to  advantage. 
We  looked  down  upon  a  large  irregularly  shaped  court, 
surrounded  by  the  outer  castle  buildings,  of  which  the 
lower  rooms  were  used  as  stables  and  the  upper  as 
stores  and  granaries. 


INCIDENTS  OF  LIFE  AT  TFLURT.  257 

In  one  corner  lay  twenty  or  thirty  huge  TiJla  boar- 
hounds,  utterly  incliflferent  to  the  unwonted  scene  of 
animation.  Grouped  in  every  direction  were  large 
numbers  of  Shellach  women  and  children  in  snow- 
white  dresses,  set  off  by  the  brilliantly  coloured  silk 
liandkerchiefs  on  their  heads,  and  the  thick  cords  of  red 
and  grold  around  their  waists.  Their  necks  grleamed 
with  gaudy  beads.  Their  hands  and  feet  were  henna- 
dyed,  and  their  faces  painted  with  lines  and  dots. 

The  men,  also,  were  in  great  numbers,  and  moved 
about  more  restlessly.  They  mostly  wore  the  black 
Ji-anif,  in  which  the  deep  orange  elliptically-shaped 
patch  behind  showed  with  curious  effect.  Others,  how- 
ever, were  in  grey  or  white,  and  nearly  all  had  some 
sort  of  apology  for  a  turban,  the  fez  being  i-arely  seen 
in  the  Atlas. 

Easy  to  recognise  in  this  interesting  gathering  were 
the  Jews.  These,  of  course,  sat  somewhat  apart  from 
the  fxithful,  though  not  so  far  as  to  indicate  that  their 
presence  was  actively  obnoxious. 

More  handsomely  dressed  than  the  countr}-  people 
were  the  Kaid's  slaves  and  retainers,  mostly  black  of 
countenance,  but  picturesque  in  well-draped  It  ails. 
These  moved  about  from  group  to  group  with  an  air 
of  authority,  ordering  people  about,  and  generally  put- 
ting matters  to  rights. 

Our  appearance  was  the  signal  for  the  dauce  to 
commence.  Some  forty  men,  of  whom  half  carried 
large  tambourines,  the  only  musical  instrument  used, 
arranged  themselves  in  a  semicircle.      About  as  many 

R 


258  MOROCCO. 

women  took  up  their  position  in  a  straight  line,  form- 
ing, as  it  were,  the  chord  of  the  arc. 

At  a  given  signal,  the  men,  slowly  and  with  solemn 
faces,  chanted  a  sentence  in  the  tone  of  worshippers 
who  invoke  a  hidden  power.  To  this  the  women  re- 
plied in  their  shrill  treble.  Holding  their  tambourines 
before  them,  the  men  next  struck  them  three  times, 
chanting  sonorously  and  slowly  the  while.  Bending 
down  till  their  instruments  touched  the  ground,  they 
again  struck  them  three  times  with  due  deliberation, 
the  women  joining  in  the  accompanying  chant  with 
plaintive  cadence.  Once  more  the  men  stood  erect. 
The  tambourines  were  now  raised  high  overhead,  and 
once  again  three  notes  were  struck. 

A  weird,  wild  air  was  next  lustily  sung  out,  though 
still  slowly,  and  with  a  strain  of  impressive  solemnity, 
the  tambourines  marking  time.  The  women  stood  up- 
right with  grave  faces,  holding  their  closed  hands  against 
their  breasts  in  an  attitude  of  prayer.  By  and  bye 
their  heads  began  to  nod  in  time  to  the  music,  the 
closed  hands,  moved  vertically  from  the  wrist,  wagged 
in  company.  This  new  part  of  the  performance  con- 
tinued some  little  time.  At  length  the  leader  of  the 
orchestra  held  up  his  tambourine  and  struck  it  vigo- 
rously three  times.  This  marked  the  commencement 
of  a  livelier  measure.  Bob,  bob  went  the  women,  as  if 
practising  the  old-fashioned  curtsey  in  time  to  music. 
The  heads  nodded  quicker ;  the  hands,  still  moving 
vertically,  were  softly  clapped.  Every  moment  the 
music  grew  faster,  with  a  corres]3onding  acceleration 


INCIDENTS  OF  LIFE  AT  TELUET.  259 

in  the  nodding-,  the  bobbiiifr,  and  the  clapping  of 
hands ;  and  every  moment  we  looked  for  the  feet  to 
join  in  the  general  movement  and  break  into  a  Berber 
hornpipe.  Nothing  of  the  sort  happened,  however. 
The  strange  performance  had  reached  its  climax. 

The  leader  raised  his  tambourine  overhead  and 
struck  three  discordant  notes.  The  entire  orchestra 
raised  their  instruments  in  a  similar  fashion.  Knees 
ceased  to  bend  and  heads  to  move.  The  hands  gradu- 
ally became  still  and  the  shrill  voices  died  away.  The 
song  and  dance  were  over. 

Before  another  measure  commenced,  two  women 
went  round  the  semicircle  of  men  and  threw  upon 
each  one's  right  breast  a  scented  powder  called  Blior, 
about  which  we  were  unable  to  learn  any  reliable  or 
precise  particulars. 

Meanwhile  I  had  become  aware  that  I  was  not  only 
an  observer,  but  one  of  the  observed. 

Above  and  behind  me  rose  one  of  the  high  towers 
of  the  castle.  Happening  to  cast  my  eyes  upward,  I 
discovered  that  a  number  of  white-robed  and  veiled 
women  occupied  the  openings  of  the  crenelated  walls 
which  surmounted  the  roof  for  the  use  of  riflemen. 
This  knowledge  caused  me  to  divert  my  attention 
every  now  and  then  from  the  scene  below  to  turn  with 
guilty  conscience  but  imaginative  eye  towards  the  for- 
bidden quarter.  So  much  of  the  glamour  and  charm 
of  Morocco  had  been  ruthlessly  demolished  by  the  rude 
realities  of  experience,  that  we  clung  with  pertinacity 
to  the  pleasing  idea — illusory  or  not — that  there  were 


26o  MOROCCO. 

still  Moorish  beauties  in  the  harem,  if  they  could  but 
be  seen.  Hence  the  eagerness  witli  which  we  scanned 
the  forms  of  the  veiled  women,  ever  hoping  to  get  a 
glimpse  of  some  ravishing  beauty,  whose  image  we 
might  carry  away  on  the  ever- ready  photographic  dry- 
plate  of  our  heart,  and  print  on  the  tablet  of  our 
memories  as  a  bright  souvenir  of  El  ]\[ograb.  I  felt 
none  the  less  eager  to  steal  a  glimpse  of  the  jewels  of 
the  Kaid's  harem  that  I  knew  the  owner  himself,  or  his 
slaves,  might  detect  me  in  this  outrage  on  Moorish 
good  manners. 

It  was  not  long  before  I  discovered  that  C.-B.  was 
equally  aware  of  the  proximity  of  the  women,  quite 
as  fidgety  as  myself,  and  even  less  restrained  in  the 
exhibition  of  his  curiosity.  In  some  excitement  he 
came  to  tell  me  of  their  presence,  though  it  was 
news  to  learn  that  a  tower  beyond  held  by  far  the 
best  of  them.  Dissembling  my  own  feelings,  I  severely 
reproved  him,  and  warned  him  of  the  consequences  of 
showing  any  indiscreet  curiosity.  But  all  the  same  I 
wanted  to  see  the  women  as  much  as  he  ;  so  by  and 
bye  I  strolled  round  to  where  my  friend  sat,  and  went 
in  for  a  little  strategic  small-talk. 

First  we  discussed  the  dance  for  a  few  seconds.  I 
then  turned  the  conversation  on  the  itnposing  charac- 
ter of  the  castle.  "  Where  could  a  more  ideal  baro- 
nial residence  be  found  than  this  ?  "  I  asked  with  an 
oratorical  flourish  of  the  hand  in  the  required  direc- 
tion. "  How  picturesque  its  outline,  how  effective  the 
towers  !  "     As  I  spoke  I  swept  my  eyes  over  the  build- 


INCIDENTS  OF  LIFE  AT  TELUET.  261 

ing.  There,  true  enough,  were  some  bundles  of  clothes 
at  openings  of  the  wall,  one  or  two  faces  and  brilliant 
eyes  peeping  from  the  folds  of  the  dress ;  but  my 
glance  was  too  hasty  and  too  guilty  to  allow  me  to  dis- 
tinguish any  special  allurements  ;  and  not  daring  to  look 
again,  I  speedily  returned  to  my  own  place. 

For  several  hours  the  dances  continued  with  but 
slight  variation  in  the  music  and  movements.  In  one, 
the  women  with  bent  knees  moved  slowly  backwards  a 
few  feet  and  then  forward.  In  another  they  moved 
sideways  round  the  men,  who  seated  themselves  on 
the  ground. 

The  whole  performance  was  of  a  remarkable  charac- 
ter, and  suggested  to  me  a  survival  of  some  old  heathen 
rites.  Its  tone  and  character  had  all  the  air  of  a  reli- 
gious invocation.  I  could  not,  however,  elicit  any  very 
satisfactory  information  regarding  it,  and  had  to  be 
content  with  guesses.  Getting  tired  of  it  at  last,  we 
sent  a  present  of  five  dollars  fur  the  performers,  and 
then  retired  to  our  (juarters. 

With  the  close  of  Ramadan  it  became  necessary  to 
prepare  for  our  departure.  We  had  done  everything 
in  our  power  to  ensure  the  good-will  of  the  Kaid  and 
his  people.  A  valuable  rifle,  a  binocular,  a  hunting- 
knife — everything,  indeed,  that  could  possibly  be  spared, 
and  which  our  host  showed  a  fancy  for,  was  sent  to  him. 
Nor  were  Abdul  Kader  and  Si  Mohammed  forgotten  ; 
they  also  were  propitiated  with  presents. 

On  the  14th  of  June,  taking  the  opportunity  of  a 
visit  from  Si  ^Mohammed,  we  told  him  that  in  a  day  or 


262  MOROCCO. 

two  we  were  going  to  leave  Teluet  for  Tifnut  and  a 
place  called  Gindafy,  which  we  understood  was  near 
the  head  of  the  Wad  Sus.  Si  Mohammed  betrayed  no 
surprise,  but  said  that  the  project  was  an  impossible 
one.  The  road  was  as  a  road  in  Gehenna,  and  the 
people  C7i  route  were  the  very  agents  of  the  Evil  One 
himself,  and  in  revolt  against  the  Kaid. 

We  smiled  at  his  description  of  the  toils  and  dan- 
gers of  the  way,  as  if  these  were  our  special  delight, 
believing  that  the  Kaid,  after  the  friendly  relations  we 
had  established,  would  not  throw  obstacles  in  our  way, 
though  he  might  not  assist  us. 

In  the  afternoon  Abdul  Kader  paid  us  a  visit  while 
I  was  out,  and  I  learned  that  he  had  spoken  quite  as 
emphatically  against  our  intentions  as  had  Si  Moham- 
med. This  was  more  discouraging,  for  we  had  never 
seen  Abdul  Kader  except  wreathed  in  smiles,  like  a  true- 
born  courtier,  and  we  had  always  calculated  upon  his 
being  our  friend. 

Our  next  step  to  precipitate  matters  was  to  dispatch 
Assor  officially  to  the  Kaid  to  notify  our  intended  de- 
pai'ture  for  Gindafy  on  the  1 6th.  He  returned  with  a 
peremptory  prohibition.  Letters  taking  all  the  respon- 
sibility of  the  affair  on  ourselves  were  of  no  value  to 
him  whatever.  Our  death,  which  he  declared  was 
certain,  would  mean  his  utter  ruin,  and  he  considered 
it  his  duty  to  prevent  us  going,  even  should  he  have  to 
imprison  us,  and  send  us  back  in  chains  to  the  plains, 
from  which  we  had  come  in  violation  of  the  Sultan's 
commands. 


INCIDENTS  OF  LIFE  AT  TELUET.  263 

Our  hopes  now  went  down  to  zero.  We  still 
cherished  the  idea  that  if  wo  could  but  get  an  audience 
of  the  Kaid  himself  we  would  be  able  to  get  round 
him.  That,  however,  was  exactly  what  the  Kaid  took 
care  we  should  not  have,  being,  I  believe,  genuinely 
put  out  at  the  situation  that  had  arisen. 

In  our  profound  disappointment  and  chagrin  the 
wildest  projects  entered  our  head.  C.-B.  was  ready 
for  everything  and  anything ;  but  though  I  dallied  for 
a  time  with  some  reckless  ideas,  I  knew  full  well  that 
without  the  Kaid's  concurrence  and  assistance  we  could 
never  leave  Teluet. 

With  the  exception  of  Shalum,  not  one  of  our  men 
would  budge  one  step,  and,  with  the  Kaid  to  back 
them  up,  we  could  not  force  them.  As  utterly  out  of 
the  question  was  it  to  bolt  away  in  disguise.  That 
the  people  of  Tifnut  were  dangerous  and  in  revolt  was 
undoubtedly  true,  and  we  could  not  but  grant  that  the 
Kaid  was  taking  up  a  position  such  as  any  one  in 
authority  would  have  assumed  in  similar  circum- 
stances. Still,  the  pill  was  too  bitter  to  be  swallowed 
easily,  and  we  could  not  help  breathing  defiance  and 
threats. 

Next  morning  matters  became  worse,  our  men,  who 
had  helped  to  bring  the  situation  about,  could  not  re- 
frain from  showing  their  exultation  over  our  discom- 
fiture, and  with  my  own  hand  I  had  to  chastise  El 
Hadj  for  insolence.  The  castle  attendants  displayed 
an  altogether  altered  demeanour,  reflecting  the  temper 
of  their   superiors.      The  lavish    inuiia  was   no  longer 


264  MOROCCO. 

forthcoming",  aud  we  were  confined  to  our  apartments. 
Everything  was  evidently  to  be  done  to  show  that  we 
were  troublesome  guests,  and  that  we  might  expect  no 
favour  till  we  submitted  to  the  will  of  the  Kaid. 

We  spent  the  day  in  a  bitter  and  melancholy  fashion, 
chewing  the  cud  of  our  reflections.  No  Kaid  arrived, 
no  ray  of  hope  appeared  in  our  gloomy  horizon. 

On  the  1 6th  matters  had  not  improved.  The  Kaid 
positively  refused  to  see  us  till  we  had  renounced  our 
intention,  nor  would  he  be  induced  to  receive  Assor. 
There  was  nothing  for  it  but  to  submit  to  our  fate, 
and  that  with  the  best  grace  possible,  for  it  was  better 
to  part  friends  than  enemies. 

In  the  afternoon  we  sent  to  tell  our  host  that  we 
proposed  to  return  to  the  plains  on  the  morrow. 
About  sunset  the  Kaid  arrived,  and  being  desirous  to 
smooth  over  matters  as  much  as  possible,  in  case  we 
mia^ht  do  him  damage  at  the  court,  he  brouo^ht  with 
him  a  handsome  gun  with  powder-horn  and  bullet- 
pouch  as  a  present,  in  addition  to  what  he  had  already 
given  us.  He  also  brought  with  him  a  large  supply 
of  biscuits,  dates,  almonds,  and  raisins,  as  provisions 
for  the  road.  We  received  these  tokens  of  friendship 
as  graciously  as  possible,  but  none  the  less  the  Kaid 
seemed  ill  at  ease.  Before  leaving  he  asked  us  as  a 
special  favour  to  remain  another  day,  in  order  that  he 
might  prepare  a  feast  for  us  to  speed  us  on  our  way 
and  celebrate  our  renewed  friendship.  To  this  arrange- 
ment we  reluctantly  consented. 

Next  day,  knowing  that  the  feast  would  be  an  afiair 


I  MI  DBMS  OF  LIFE  AT  T  BLUET.  265 

of  some  magnitude,  and  wishful  to  sliow,  by  partaking 
heartily,  that  vre  liarboured  110  malice,  we  deemed  it 
advisable  to  fast  all  iiioniiiig,  so  as  to  give  our  appe- 
tites a  keener  edge  and  blunt  the  fastidiousness  of  our 
palates.  For  the  same  reason  I  thought  it  well  to 
take  a  constitutional.  To  do  this  I  had  to  slip  outside, 
as  if  merely  taking  a  stroll  about  the  castle.  Some 
distance  beyond  the  outer  wall  Shalum  met  me,  bring- 
ing with  him  a  couple  of  mules,  one  for  me  and  one 
for  himself.  My  goal  was  a  low  range  or  ridge  closing 
in  the  valley  to  the  west,  beyond  which  was  the  glen 
of  the  chief  tributary  of  the  Asif  Marren,  a  spot  I  had 
long  been  desirous  of  visiting.  As  I  was  afraid  of  being 
pursued  and  captured  before  attaining  my  object,  we 
hurried  forward  as  fast  as  possible. 

The  morning  was  exquisite  in  its  fresh  purity  and 
cool  bracing  temperature,  its  brilliant  sunlight,  and 
marvellously  deep  blue  sky.  The  spice  of  possible 
danger  in  front  and  of  pursuit  behind  gave  the  neces- 
sary zest  to  make  our  ride  thoroughly  enjoyable. 

We  had  passed  more  than  one  village  without 
being  molested  or  questioned.  At  length  we  neared 
the  bottom  of  the  hill  which  we  had  to  ascend  in 
order  to  look  down  into  the  valley.  We  had  still, 
however,  to  pass  a  large  village  and  cross  a  stream. 
The  former  we  did  without  trouble,  and  luul  almost 
reached  the  stream,  when  we  were  suddenly  startled 
by  excited  cries  behind  us.  Turning  sharply  round, 
conceive  my  astonishment  on  finding  an  infuriated 
mountaineer   rushing'-   towards   us  and    niakini;  violent 


266  MOROCCO. 

efforts  to  escape  fVoin  two  men,  with  the  very  evident 
object  of  shooting  rae. 

The  peril  of  my  situation  was  only  too  evident.  I 
was  unarmed,  though  that  mattered  little,  for  if  I  had 
shot  my  assailant,  there  would  have  been  no  escape 
from  his  fellow-villagers.  Shalum  was  equally  de- 
fenceless. To  make  matters  worse,  we  had  no  common 
language,  and  in  the  excitement  of  the  moment  I  could 
only  ejaculate  in  English.  Shalum,  being  a  Jew,  dared 
not  interfere ;  but  to  his  honour  be  it  said,  he  did 
not  attempt  to  save  himself  by  flight.  With  look  and 
gesture  I  mutely  demanded  why  the  mad  fanatic — for 
such  I  deemed  him  to  be — wanted  to  take  my  blood. 
I  deprecated  any  such  violent  proceeding  with  up- 
raised hands,  and  made  animated  marks  of  exclamation 
with  my  shoulders  and  eyebrows. 

Nothing  more  was  left  to  me  but  to  sit  on  my  mule 
and  watch  w^ith  painful  personal  interest  the  progress 
of  the  strugfcrle.  Every  now  and  as^ain  it  seemed  as  if 
my  would-be  assailant  would  succeed  in  breaking 
loose,  and  his  gun  wouki  come  dangerously  near  the 
horizontal.  At  such  moments  it  was  no  joke  to  have 
no  other  alternative  open  to  me  than  that  of  helplessly 
sitting  still. 

Nothing  had  any  effect  on  the  foaming  maniac. 
Neither  the  severity  of  my  looks,  nor  the  dignity  that 
doth  hedge  the  British  subject,  were  of  any  avail.  As 
little  use  was  it  to  try  to  fix  him  with  my  eye  ;  for,  to 
my  added  discomfiture,  among  the  armed  crowd  that 
was  rapidly  gathering,  another  fanatic,  excited  by  the 


INCIDENTS  OF  LIFE  AT  TELUET.  267 

behaviour  of  liis  friend,  commenced  a  similar  disagree- 
able demonstration  in  my  rear,  and  it  became  an  inte- 
resting speculation  witli  me,  as  I  turned  first  to  the  one 
and  then  to  the  other,  which  was  likely  to  be  the  first 
in  shedding  my  Christian  blood. 

Matters  were  becoming  worse  at  each  moment.  War- 
cries  were  echoing  all  round,  bringing  out  scores  of 
armed  villagers.  The  crowd  around  me  surged  and 
clamoured.  Some  wanted  to  give  the  fanatics  a  free 
hand,  others  objected  on  the  ground  that  I  was  the 
Kaid's  guest.  A  few  there  were  who  seemed  to  turn 
over  in  their  mind  the  propriety  of  killing  me,  and 
more  than  once  I  caught  sight  of  guns  raised  and  then 
lowered. 

I  began  to  think  my  last  hour  had  come.  There 
was  but  one  course  open  to  me,  namely,  to  attempt 
retreat.  To  my  agreeable  surprise,  the  crowd,  as  such, 
made  no  attempt  to  stop  us,  though  the  two  madmen, 
now  weak  with  their  violent  exertions,  still  struggled 
to  free  themselves. 

Restraining  my  desire  to  put  my  mule  to  the  gallop, 
and  disdaining  to  appear  afraid,  though  I  never  got 
such  a  fright  in  my  life,  I  gathered  together  such 
remnants  of  my  dignity  as  still  were  left,  and  calmly 
ambled  away,  not  deigning  to  look  back,  but  wishing 
with  my  whole  soul  that  I  had  one  eye  at  least  in  the 
back  of  my  head.  For  over  a  hundred  yards  I  momen- 
tarily expected  to  hear  the  report  of  a  gun,  and  feel 
one  sharp  moment  of  agony.  Happily  no  such  catas- 
trophe happened,  and  after  a  time  I  felt  that  without 


268  MOROCCO. 

loss  of  dignity  I  might  look  round.  I  drew  a  deep 
sigh  of  relief  from  an  intolerable  mental  tension  on 
finding  that  we  were  not  followed,  thou<>-h  we  were 
still  watched  from  the  heights  by  groups  of  people. 

My  first  care  on  finding  myself  out  of  danger  was  to 
warn  Shalum  to  be  absolutely  silent  as  to  what  had 
happened,  knowing  that  if  it  came  to  the  ears  of  our 
men,  they  would  make  splendid  obstructive  capital  out 
of  it.  For  the  same  reason  I  resolved  to  say  nothing 
of  it  to  the  Kaid,  though  I  longed  to  demand  soldiers 
and  return  to  the  village  with  vengeful  intents. 

On  reaching  our  quarters  without  further  adventure, 
C.-B. — who,  meanwhile,  had  been  peacefully  working 
up  his  diaries — C.-B.  and  I  proceeded  to  array  our- 
selves in  Moorish  dresses,  as  being  cooler,  and  more 
in  keeping  with  the  function  in  prospect,  as  well  as — 
if  I  may  be  permitted  to  say  so — allowing  of  more  com- 
fortable expansion  as  the  banquet  proceeded.  For  the 
rest  of  the  afternoon  there  was  nothing  for  us  to  do 
but  loll  about  on  our  mattresses  and  cushions — a 
Moorish  fashion  which  did  not  suit  our  temperament. 
It  was  satisfactory,  however,  to  feel  that  our  appetites 
were  getting  ravenous. 

At  length,  as  the  Mueddin  ended  his  call  to  after- 
noon prayers,  the  sound  of  slippered  feet  came  wel- 
comely  to  our  ears.  As  we  half-raised  ourselves  in 
eager  expectancy,  a  dozen  slaves  in  snow-white  dresses 
defiled  before  us  in  an  appetising  train  that  made  our 
mouths  water  with  anticipatory  joys.  Each  stalwart 
negro  perspired   under  a  circular  legless  table,  behind 


DINNKU   UEADY. 


raije  268. 


INCIDRNTS  OF  LIFE  AT  TELUFT. 


269 


whose  liiigo  conical  cover  he  was  almost  hidden. 
Their  steaming  burdens  were  deposited  in  a  row,  like 
so  many  bocliives,  stretching  from  our  door  half-way 
down  the  garden.  The  slaves  looked  at  us  with  beam- 
ing faces,  mutely  congratulating  us  on  the  coming 
feast,  as  they  stood  over  their  respective  tables  flicking 
away  the  clouds  of  flies  with  long  cloths.      Our   men 


WAlTlNi;    KDU    DINNKIl. 


gathered  around  like  jackals,  and  licked  their  lips, 
awaiting  the  moment  when  their  turn  to  eat  would 
come. 

We  had  not  long  to  wait  for  the  Kaid  and  his  two 
henchmen.  We  rose  to  receive  them  at  the  door  with 
salaams  and  compliments,  and  then,  without  loss  of 
time,  arranged  ourselves  for  action,  the  governor,  how- 
ever, not  joining  us. 


270  MOROCCO. 

First  a  slave  appeared  with  basin  and  ewer  in  which 
to  wash  our  ri<^]it  hand — the  left  never,  if  possible, 
being  used  to  convey  food  to  the  mouth.  Every  one 
having  washed,  we  seated  ourselves  tailor- fash  ion  in  a 
circle. 

Abdul  Kader  was  again  all  smiles  and  jokes.  Even 
Si  Mohammed  relaxed  the  dark  severity  of  his  coun- 
tenance, while  we  did  our  best  to  assume  an  air  of 
subdued  hilarity,  such  as  might  become  our  dignity. 

The  nearest  table  was  now  placed  in  our  midst, 
and  the  beehive-shaped  cover  taken  off.  Before  us 
appeared  a  large  glazed  earthen  dish,  like  a  wash- 
hand  basin,  half  filled  with  melted  butter,  in  which 
swam  four  roast- fowls.  As  many  loaves  garnished  the 
edge  of  the  table.  With  one  accord  we  ejaculated 
" Bisinillah  !  "  (in  the  name  of  God),  with  which  phrase 
the  good  Mussulman  puts  a  divine  stamp  on  whatever 
he  does. 

In  my  hurry  to  show  how  much  at  home  I  was,  I 
made  the  vulgar  mistake  of  breaking  bread  before 
Abdul  Kader,  who  acted  for  the  Kaid,  did  it  for  me. 

There  were,  of  course,  no  knives  or  forks,  and  we 
had  to  make  the  most  we  could  of  our  fingers.  Our 
attempts  were  miserable  failures.  As  we  could  only 
use  the  right  hand,  it  was  difficult  to  separate  the 
meat  without  drawing  away  the  fowl  or  making  a 
terrible  splash.  In  our  impatience  we  restrained  our- 
selves with  difficulty  from  using  both  hands,  than 
which  nothing  would  have  been  more  low-bred. 

Abdul  Kader,  seeing  our  embarrassment,  hastened 


INCIDENTS  OF  LIFE  AT  TELUET.  271 

to  separate  the  clioicest  pieces  with  his  own  fingers, 
and  either  placed  them  beside  us,  or  as  a  special  com- 
pliment popped  them  into  our  mouths.  This,  how- 
ever, only  made  us  more  anxious  to  succeed  in  our 
own  attempts. 

Having  made  some  impression  on  the  dish,  the  re- 
mainder was  passed  on  to  our  men  to  finish  off",  giving 
us  time  to  suck  our  fingers  clean  in  the  manner  of 
little  boys  who  have  been  at  the  jam-pot. 

In  quick  succession  three  other  courses  of  fowls,  all 
cooked  differently,  were  placed  before  us.  Next  fol- 
lowed, one  by  one,  throe  trijen,  or  stews  of  beef  and 
mutton,  like  the  chickens,  all  swimming  in  butter  or  oil. 

Of  each  and  all  we  were  expected  to  partake,  and  as 
our  appreciation  was  understood  to  be  in  proportion  to 
the  amount  we  consumed,  we  began  to  see  the  wisdom 
of  our  choice  of  clothes. 

After  the  six  courses  of  stews  and  chickens,  we  felt 
ready  for  anything,  and  in  capital  form  for  whatever 
might  turn  up.  Our  eyes  became  moist  with  mingled 
emotions  on  seeing  half  a  baked  sheep  hoisted  into  our 
midst,  oozing  forth  fat  from  every  pore  and  steaming 
with  appetising  odours.  In  my  desire  to  show  how 
much  I  was  enjoying  myself,  and  what  a  good  -time  I 
was  having,  I  dug  my  fingers  too  eagerly  into  the 
juicy  meat  and  burnt  them.  Naturally  the  pain  made 
me  raise  them  involuntarily  to  my  lips ;  but  recol- 
lecting myself,  I  dissembled,  and  made  believe  that 
I  had  only  been  trying  the  flavour  of  the  mutton,  and 
that  nothing  could  be  more  delicious. 


272  MOROCCO. 

A  pillau  of  rice  and  fowls  was  an  agreeable  varia- 
tion to  the  more  substantial  solids  that  had  hitherto 
been  presented.  We  made,  however,  but  a  poor  show 
when  the  Moorish  national  dish  kusJiUssu  was  placed 
before  us.  This  consists  of  wheaten  flour  granulated 
and  steamed  over  a  stewpan  in  which  meat  is  being 
cooked. 

In  eating  kusJcKSsy,  little  balls  are  formed  by  a 
peculiar  motion  of  the  half-closed  hand.  These  are 
then  raised  to  the  edge  of  the  fist  and  dexterously 
propelled  into  the  mouth  by  the  thumb.  To  do  this 
properly  requires  a  great  deal  of  practice ;  and  not 
having  had  it,  we  failed  so  ignominiously,  that  it  would 
have  been  well  had  we  provided  ourselves  with  bibs. 

Our  failure,  however,  was  again  Abdul  Kader's  op- 
portunity. With  his  own  greasy  fingers  he  made  balls 
for  us,  and  then  on  the  signal  "  Kul  .^"  cleverly  shot  them 
into  our  open  mouths.  Of  course  we  stammered  out 
"  Baral'a-lowfih  !  "  (many  thanks),  and  made  faces  ex- 
pressive of  our  delight  and  appreciation  of  the  high 
honour  done  us  ;  but  none  the  less  the  balls  went 
down  our  throats  with  difficulty,  though  by  this  time 
there  were  perhaps  more  reasons  than  one  why  that 
was  so. 

The  kuskussu  marked  the  end  of  the  feast  proper. 
We  piously  acknowledged  the  true  Giver  of  all  the 
good  things  that  we  had  eaten  by  ejaculating  ^^Ilamdu- 
lillah  !  "  (praise  the  Lord),  and  then  thoroughly  washed 
our  hands. 

Tea,  cake   and  fruit  in  lavish  abundance  followed  as 


INCIDENTS  OF  LIFE  AT  TELUET.  273 

dessert  and  top-dressing.  But  we  had  not  yet  quite 
done  with  all  the  accompaniments  of  the  banquet, 
during-  which  we  had  literally  put  through  our  hands 
twelve  fowls,  some  fifteen  pounds  of  stewed  mutton 
and  beef,  eighteen  loaves  of  bread,  half  a  baked  sheep, 
and  other  less  substantial  viands. 

First,  an  array  of  bottles  and  other  utc-nsils  more 
or  less  mysterious  were  brought  in,  and  I  had  to  place 
myself  in  the  hands  of  Abdul  Kader,  who  proceeded 
to  drench  my  clothes  and  person  with  rose-water  till  I 
looked  as  if  half-drowned.  Next  I  had  to  be  perfumed 
with  the  smoke  of  odoriferous  aloes  wood,  benzoin,  and 
ambergris  placed  with  charcoal  in  a  burner. 

Abdul  Kader  first  wafted  the  smoke  over  my  face, 
then  I  had  to  stand  over  the  incense-burner,  so  that 
the  perfume  should  penetrate  everywhere,  with  the 
result  that  I  speedily  emitted  smoke  from  neck  and 
sleeves  like  an  active  volcano. 

After  this  crowning  ceremony  the  governor  rose  to 
leave.  We  conducted  hiui  to  the  door  of  our  apart- 
ments, where,  after  exchanging  salaams  and  compli- 
ments again,  and  commending  him  to  the  keeping  of 
Allah,  we  returned  to  dry  ourselves  and  resume  the 
ordinary  dress  and  ways  of  civilised  life. 


(     274     ) 


CHAPTER  XIX. 

TELUET    TO    AMSMIZ. 

On  the  1 8th  of  June  we  bade  farewell  to  the  Kaid, 
and  in  anything  but  an  amiable  mood  commenced  our 
return  to  the  Plain  of  Morocco.  In  little  more  than 
two  hours  we  were  again  on  the  Tizi-n-Teluet,  linger- 
ingly  taking  our  last  look  of  the  riant  valley,  as  before 
we  had  taken  our  first.  Regrets  were  useless,  how- 
ever, and  there  was  nothing  for  it  but  to  turn  our 
faces  to  the  north,  and  hope  for  a  more  lucky  turn  of 
the  wheel  of  fortune  in  other  parts  of  the  Atlas. 

On  our  way  to  Zarktan,  El  liadj  chiefly  claimed 
our  attention.  Since  our  arrival  at  Telnet,  he  had  been 
unable  to  obtain  any  kief,  and  being  an  inveterate 
smoker  of  that  deleterious  drug,  he  had  been  reduced 
to  the  verge  of  lunacy.  The  deprivation  made  him  a 
danger  to  himself  and  those  around  him.  He  now 
chose  to  let  out  his  spleen  on  his  mule,  and  swore  he 
would  send  it  to  the  bottom  of  the  glen.  So  reckless 
was  his  behaviour,  that  I  dared  not  leave  him  one 
moment ;  but  even  my  presence  was  no  great  restraining 
influence,  and  our  march  was  one  continuous  wrangle, 
varied  by  threats  of  my  hunting-crop,  and  other  vio- 
lent demonstrations,   indispensable   unfortunately,   and 


TELUET  TO  AMSMIZ.  275 

loathesome  to  my  soul.  On  the  ritlge  over  Zarktau 
his  l)nital  trcatnu'iit  of  the  mule  ncarh^  ended  in  the 
animal's  death  ;  lor  gettinc^  bewildered  and  terrified  by 
the  way  in  which  it  was  being  pulled  about,  it  missed 
its  footing  and  fell  from  the  pathway,  only  escaping 
destruction  by  a  miracle.  After  that  tlie  poor  brute 
became  utterly  paralysed,  and  could  only  be  got  along 
with  the  utmost  difiiculty.  The  near  realisation  of 
liis  expressed  hopes  for  the  moment  slightly  sobered 
Iladj,  but  none  the  less  I  kept  my  hunting-crop  ready 
for  immediate  application  to  his  shoulders  on  the  next 
lapse  from  proper  conduct. 

In  the  evening  we  reached  Zarktan,  where  we  were 
once  more  hospitably  received. 

Next  day  we  were  much  disgusted  at  being  com- 
pelled to  farther  retrace  our  steps  down  the  valley  of 
the  CJadat,  instead  of  being  able  to  cut  westwai'd  over 
the  mountains,  as  we  had  been  led  to  expect. 

El  Hadj  was  more  than  ever  contumacious  and  brutal 
in  the  treatment  of  his  mule,  which,  on  its  part,  was 
more  than  ever  frightened.  Again  I  had  to  resume  the 
revolting  task  of  going  behind  him  like  a  slave-driver 
with  ever-threatening  whip.  At  last,  not  daring  to 
show  the  mad  rage  which  possessed  him,  he  bolted  of!" 
and  left  liis  charge.  IIai»|)ily  a  native  of  jNIorocco 
returning  from  Telnet  volunteered  to  bring  the  mule 
along,  else  we  should  have  been  in  a  quandary.  As  for 
Hadj,  I  resolved  to  let  him  alone  till  I  reached  Mis- 
liwa,  where,  I  made  up  my  mind,  he  should  once  more 
meditate  in  a  duntreon. 


276  MOROCCO. 

In  four  liuui's  we  reached  tlie  bridge  above  Enzel, 
and  here  we  cut  away  from  our  old  route.  The  Raid's 
brother  had  so  far  accompanied  us,  but  here  he  left  us. 
His  hast  request  was  that  Hadj  miglit  be  forgiven,  and 
though  greatly  enraged  against  the  scoundrel,  I  could 
not  refuse  this  parting  grace  to  our  youthful  friend. 

Ascending  the  hills  by  a  steep  path,  we  kept  west  by 
north,  over  red  shales  backed  up  by  intrusions  of  basalt. 
At  the  top  w^e  were  on  the  undulating  surface  of  the 
first  mountain  terrace,  with  escarped  hills  to  the  west, 
formed  by  a  capping  of  limestones  over  softer  shales 
and  sandstones.  Irregular  anticlines  and  synclines 
brought  these  beds  to  the  surface  in  different  directions. 
What  chiefly  attracted  our  attention,  hoAvever,  as  we 
entered  the  drainage  basin  of  the  Wad  Masin,  was  a 
clearly  defined  mound-like  moraine,  extending  from 
the  back  of  the  high  mountains  overlooking  Zark- 
tan  well  across  the  lower  slopes.  Though  of  no  great 
breadth  or  thickness,  and  only  some  five  or  six  miles 
in  length,  this  was  by  far  the  most  important  evidence 
of  glacial  action  we  ever  saw  in  the  Atlas.  This  fact 
makes  me  extremely  sceptical  of  the  glacial  origin 
ascribed  by  Maw  to  an  enormous  series  of  "  boulder 
beds  "  a  few  miles  farther  west  of  the  Wad  Masin.  It 
seems  incredible  that  glacial  drift  could  have  been 
deposited,  as  he  describes,  to  a  thickness  of  one  or  two 
thousand  feet  in  a  restricted  area  of  a  few  miles,  while 
elsewhere,  from  Demnat  to  the  Atlantic,  and  in  the  very 
heart  of  the  Atlas  itself,  only  the  most  insignificant 
evidence  of  glacial  action  exists.      In  Misfiwa  and  Urika, 


TELUET  TO  AMSMIZ.  277 

where  these  so-called  friacial  deposits  are  found,  there 
is  imtliing  in  the  height  or  conformation  of  the  moun- 
tains to  indicate  more  favourable  conditions  than  else- 
where for  the  formation  of  glaciers  or  the  deposit  of 
ice-transported  matter. 

Tlie  geological  features  of  the  mountain  terrace  we 
were  now  crossing  were  interesting  in  other  respects, 
l']vidently  the  intrusion  of  bosses  and  walls  of  basalt 
had  been  the  principal  factor  in  the  formation  of  the 
folds  and  curves  which  distinguished  the  rocks.  At 
one  place  wo  passed  along  the  axis  of  an  anticline, 
where  the  tension  on  the  sharply  curved  beds  had  been 
too  much  for  the  limestones  and  sluvles,  which  had  con- 
sequently been  fractured,  and  formed  a  sharp  V-like 
valley.  This  valley  farther  north  opened  into  a  great 
circular  hollow,  occupied  in  the  centre  by  a  hillock  of 
basalt,  from  which  the  opposing  escarped  circle  of 
limestone  beds  dipped  away  in  all  directions.  Through 
this  curious  depression  runs  the  Wad  ^lisfiwa. 

Our  route  now  followed  this  fine  mountain  stream, 
up  whoso  picturesque  and  frowning  glen  we  got  tempt- 
ing glimpses  of  the  snow-clad  heights  beyond.  The 
bold  physical  features  of  the  inner  ranges  needed  not 
the  confirmation  of  river  debris  to  tell  us  that  there  the 
geological  formation  differed  from  what  wo  had  found 
in  the  Gadat.  Still  the  drifted  blocks  of  greywacke, 
porphyry,  and  diorite  which  strewed  the  bed  of  the 
Wad  !Misfiwa  gave  us  more  definite  data  regarding 
the  nature  of  the  geological  change. 

It  was  three  in  the  afternoon   when  we  once  more 


278  MOROCCO. 

emei'ged  from  the  mountains  and  found  ourselves 
among  the  olive  groves  of  Iminzet,  with  the  j-ellow 
monotony  of  the  Plain  of  Morocco  stretching  away 
northward. 

To  our  delight,  the  Kaid  of  Misfiwa  was  absent  in 
Morocco — a  circumstance  which  enabled  us  to  dispense 
with  the  presentation  to  him  of  the  introductory  letters 
supplied  to  us  by  El  Madani.  We  well  knew  that 
they  were  more  than  introductory,  and  contained  hints 
and  warninofs  renrardinw  us   which    would    have   been 

Do  D 

acted  upon  had  we  tried  to  penetrate  the  mountains  of 
Misfiwa,  and  passed  on  also  to  the  next  governor  we 
desired  to  visit.  By  the  happy  accident  of  the  Raid's 
absence  we  would  now  be  al)le  to  obliterate  our  traces 
in  a  manner,  and  start  afresh  with  a  Kaid  unbiassed 
by  previous  knowledge  and  unsuspicious  of  our  move- 
ments. 

Taking  everything  into  consideration,  we  deemed  it 
well  to  make  no  attempt  in  the  meantime  to  ascend 
the  Misfiwa  glen,  but  rather  to  throw  our  men  off  the 
scent  by  pushing  on  to  Amsmiz,  and  there,  if  possible, 
cross  the  mountain. 

Meanwdiile,  to  impress  the  Sheik  in  charge  with  a 
proper  sense  of  our  importance — which  otherwise  he 
would  have  held  to  be  of  no  account — Assor  bullied  the 
life  out  of  him  to  bring  mona  in  fitting  quantities.  In 
this  our  men — backward  in  all  else — joined  heartily, 
till  at  length  we  were  elevated  to  a  proper  pinnacle  in 
the  Sheik's  estimation,  and  he  hastened  to  kill  the 
flitted  sheep  and  lay  before  us  his  choicest  chickens — a 


TELUET  TO  AMSMIZ.  279 

proceeding  in  tliis  case  recognised  by  us  with  a  suitable 
gift  of  money. 

Next  morning  we  started  for  Amsmiz  by  way  of 
Gurguri.  Our  course  lay  south-west,  over  the  stony, 
treeless  plain,  and  skirting  the  base  of  a  low  flat 
escarped  hill,  at  the  base  of  which  rose  a  dyke  of 
basalt.  The  one  agreeable  feature  in  the  landscape 
was  the  numerous  villages  along  the  edge  of  the  hill. 
The  greater  part  of  the  crops — here  somewhat  scanty — 
had  now  been  cut  and  gathered  into  heaps  awaiting  the 
thrashing.  In  about  two  hours  we  reached  the  Wad 
El  Mullia,  where  the  basalt  dyke  ends,  and  the  low 
hills  sharply  curve  south,  and  form  a  great  bay,  having 
Urika  in  its  centre.  As  we  travelled  on,  the  plain 
became  more  fertile  and  more  varied  by  winding 
strips  of  olives  and  fruitful  gardens,  to  which  a  per- 
fect network  of  artificial  channels  led  the  needful 
water.  Some  three  hours  from  Iminzet,  at  a  place 
called  Tamarakt,  we  remarked  an  undoubted  line  of  ice- 
borne  boulders,  many  of  great  size,  and  from  this  part 
we  could  sec  the  collection  of  rounded  hillocks  at  the 
foot  of  the  Atlas  composed  of  the  "glacial  dril'r  "  of 
Maw. 

About  mid-day  we  crossed  the  Wad  Reraya,  where  we 
all  nearly  came  to  grief  in  a  quicksand  in  the  middle 
of  the  stream.  Two  hours  later  we  entered  a  magnifi- 
cent series  of  olive  groves,  and  found  ourselves  close  to 
the  Wad  Reraya  at  Taghnowt  (Tachnowt). 

At  this  point  we  left  the  plain  to  cross  the  mountain 
spur    of  IMiilai-Ibi'ahim    and    Gurguri.      At  a  height 


28o  MOROCCO. 

of  4000  feet  wc  found  ourselves  at  the  top,  with 
the  holy  zaicia  or  sanctuary  of  Mulai-lbraliim  on 
our  left.  There  is  no  more  highly  revered  saint  in 
Southern  ]\[orocco  than  Mulai-Ibrahim,  and  our  men 
hastened  to  jump  from  their  mules  and  mutter  a  prayer 
for  his  blessing.  This  done,  they  threw  stones  upon 
some  huge  cairns  that  lined  the  wayside,  built  up  by 
the  additions  of  successive  generations  of  travellers, 
who,  unable  to  visit  the  holy  man's  tomb,  yet  desired 
to  add  something  to  the  rude  monuments  thus  raised 
to  his  honour. 

After  crossing  an  outcrop  of  metamorphic  rocks  we 
entered  the  curved  and  folded  series  of  cretaceous  date. 

It  was  near  sunset  when  we  found  ourselves  at 
the  western  edge  of  the  Gurguri  mountains  and  look- 
ing over  the  plain.  Half  way  down  the  exceedingly 
precipitous  slope  we  passed  the  Kasbah  of  Gurguri, 
perched  like  an  eagle's  nest  on  a  projecting  shelf  of 
rock.  The  Kaid  here  being  from  home,  we  had  to 
descend  to  the  castle  of  his  Kalifa  or  lieutenant,  which 
we  reached  long  after  sunset,  having  been  over  fourteen 
hours  in  the  saddle. 

Our  reception  was  far  from  hospitable,  and  we  gladh' 
moved  on  next  morning  to  Amsmiz,  which  we  reached 
in  four  hours,  our  animals  dead  beat  with  the  forced 
marches  of  the  previous  three  days. 

From  what  we  had  been  told  of  the  Kaid  of  Amsmiz 
by  Shalum,  who  belonged  to  that  place,  we  expected  not 
indeed  such  a  reception  as  at  Glauwa,  but  entertainment 
quite   as  lavishly  hospitable.      He  was  known  to  be  a 


T BLUET  TO  AMSMIZ.  28 ( 

man  of  catholic  tastes,  who  delighted  to  immber  some 
European  vices  amongst  others  more  strictly  Moorish. 
A  man  who  enjoN'ed  his  bottle  like  any  good  Christian, 
was  not,  wo  imagined,  likely  to  look  upon  us  too  sus- 
piciously, thougli  we  were  not  sure  how  fixr  the  couple 
of  bottles  of  whisky  wc  carried  among  our  stores  would 
be  an  open  sesame  to  the  portals  of  the  Atlas  heights 
and  fastnesses.  We  did  not,  however,  got  an  oppor- 
tunity of  trying  the  experiment.  'J'ho  Kaid  was 
absent  in  Morocco.  When  we  arrived,  the  Kalifa  or 
deputy-governor  was  in  the  fields,  and  the  servant  in 
ciiarge  showed  us  into  the  court  and  guest-chamber  of 
the  common  herd  of  travellers.  We  resented  this  very 
much,  but  had  to  submit  on  finding  the  Kalifa  on  his 
arrival  powerless  to  open  the  other  rooms.  Still  it 
was  necessary  to  impress  him  with  a  due  sense  of  our 
importance,  and  we  f\xilcd  not  to  express  ourselves  in 
the  most  indignant  terms,  with  the  required  result. 

At  Amsmiz  we  were  once  more  at  the  entrance  of 
a  mountain  glen  leading  to  a  pass  across  the  main 
cha'n  to  Gindafy  and  Ivas  ol  Wad  in  Sus.  Here,  as 
elsewhere,  we  kept  our  plans  to  ourselves  till  the 
moment  for  action  had  arrived.  At  pi*esent,  it  was 
absolutely  necessary  to  give  our  mules  a  rest  to  recover 
from  their  late  journey. 

There  were  certain  things  in  our  favour  which  gave 
us  ground  for  hope.  In  the  first  place,  the  Kalifa  was 
not  likely  to  act  so  energetically,  or  feel  so  sure  of  his 
ground  with  us,  as  the  Kaid.  Then  we  had  the  pre- 
cedent  in   our   favour   of  having'   boon   to   Telnet,  and 


282  MOROCCO. 

tliere  regally  entertained.  Our  men,  too,  were  not  so 
suspicious  of  our  intentions,  as  the  familiar  road  to 
Sus  lay  farther  east,  up  the  Wad  Nyfis. 

Amsmiz  lies  at  the  foot  of  the  outer  mountain 
terrace  of  the  Atlas,  and  close  to  the  entrance  of  a 
narrow  glen,  through  whicli  may  1)0  caught  a  glimpse 
of  the  backbone  of  the  range,  only  some  eight  miles 
distant.  The  town  stands  at  an  elevation  of  3020 
feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea,  according  to  our  boiling- 
point  thermometer,  though  Hooker's  aneroid  registered 
a  height  of  3382  feet.  My  experience  with  the  two 
different  instruments  leads  me  to  accept  my  own 
observation  as  probably  the  more  correct.  Bearing 
on  this  point  I  may  mention  that  among  the  moun- 
tains my  aneroid,  differed  from  the  B.P.T.  to  the 
extent  of  several  hundred  feet,  each  ascent  producing 
a  new  error  in  the  reading.  Yet  on  starting,  and 
on  returning  to  the  coast,  the  aneroid  read  cor- 
rectly, and  agreed  with  the  B.P.T.  Consequently, 
if  I  had  relied  entirely  on  the  former,  and  had  not 
had  the  latter  to  compare  it  with,  I  should  have  left 
Morocco  with  the  impression  that  I  had  been  in  pos- 
session of  an  admirably  correct  instrument,  w^hereas  in 
reality  the  readings  among  the  mountains  would  have 
been  enormously  wrong.  It  must,  therefore,  be  under- 
stood that  the  elevations  given  in  these  pages  and  the 
accompanying  map  are  either  deduced  from  the  tem- 
perature of  the  boiling-point — as  is  the  case  with  all 
the  important  points — or  from  aneroid  readings  cor- 
rected by   the   B.P.T.      This   fact  will  explain  the  re- 


TIILUET  ro  AM  SMI  Z.  283 

markable  discrepancies  wliicli  geograpliers  will  not  full 
to  note  between  my  elevations  and  those  given  by  such 
trained  and  accurate  observers  as  Hooker  and  Ball. 

The  population  of  the  town  of  Amsmiz  we  guessed 
to  be  somewhere  about  2000,  of  which  a  very  con- 
siderable proportion  are  -Jews.  Here,  as  elsewhere, 
these  children  of  Israel  are  terribly  overcrowded. 
Greatly  to  our  surprise,  however,  we  found  among 
tliein  a  certain  measure  of  cleanliness,  not  only  in  their 
persons,  but  in  their  houses  and  streets.  Of  course 
the  cleanliness  was  purely  comparative.  With  this 
better  sanitation  there  was  a  corresponding  improve- 
ment in  the  healtli  of  tlic  ^Fellah.  Physical  deformi- 
ties were  more  rare,  and  without  exception  the  Jews 
of  Amsmiz  were  by  far  the  finest  developed  men  and 
women  we  met  anywhere  in  Morocco.  In  other  re- 
spects too  they  attracted  our  favourable  notice ;  for 
they  had  a  manly  and  independent  air  about  them 
sufiiciently  rare  in  these  lands,  and  seemed  to  be  on 
very  good  terms  with  themselves  and  with  the  Govern- 
ment. 

Among  the  various  problems  presented  by  the  Jews 
in  Morocco,  none  appears  more  curious  than  this,  that 
in  every  town  and  district  they  develop  a  character- 
istic physical  a])pearancL'  without  losing  tlie  distinctive 
features  of  the  race,  so  that  the  observer  can  at  once 
say  that  this  one  comes  from  Amsmiz,  and  that  from 
Demnat — from  the  city  of  ^lorocco,  or  from  the  Atlas 
Mountains.  This  differentiation  is  of  course  to  some 
extent  due  to  the  difleri'nt  {)in"suits,  conditions  of  life. 


284  MOROCCO. 

and  climate  wliicli  mark  tlieir  various  spliercs  ;  that, 
for  instance,  of  the  Jew  of  Morocco  as  compared  with 
his  brother  of  the  mountains.  But  a  far  more  impor- 
tant factor  in  effecting  this  specialisation  was  the  old 
state  of  things — now  only  existent  in  remote  corners 
of  the  Atlas — which  prevented  Jews  from  leaving  the 
places  where  they  were  brought  up  as  semi-serfs.  A 
third  was  their  prevailing  habit  of  marrying  among 
relations  in  order  to  keep  their  hard-won  money  from 
going  outside  the  fiimily. 

Child-marriages  we  found  to  be  the  rule  in  Amsmiz 
— not,  be  it  remembered,  between  a  boy  and  a  girl, 
but  between  a  man  of  mature  years,  frequently  old 
even,  and  a  child  of  from  seven  to  ten.  These  child- 
wives  live  with  their  husbands,  though,  as  may  be 
understood,  only  for  protection  till  they  attain  a  cer- 
tain development,  ilothers  at  ten  are  not,  however, 
unheard  of,  and  are  not  rare  at  thirteen  or  fifteen. 

The  surprising  thing  about  these  early  marriages  is 
that  they  do  not  appear  to  react  upon  the  physique 
of  the  population.  As  far  as  Amsmiz  was  concerned, 
the  custom  seemed  to  result  in  the  production  of  fine 
healthy  men  and  women. 


(    285     ) 


CHAPTER  XX. 

GLEN  OF  THE   WAD  AMSMIZ. 

On  the  23  rd  June,  the  mules  being  sufficiently  re- 
covered, we  resolved  to  broach  our  plans  to  the  Kalifa. 
So  far  not  a  breath  of  onr  intentions,  as  far  as  we 
knew,  had  got  out.  In  addition  to  keeping  every- 
thing secret,  we  had  called  the  worst  of  our  men  before 
us,  and  given  them  a  frightful  "  blowing  up."  "We  told 
them  that  we  knew  all  about  their  evil  machinations  at 
Glauwa.  and  said  that  if  such  practices  were  continued 
we  would  take  a  terrible  revenge.  We  left  them  to 
imagine  for  themselves  what  that  revenge  would  be, 
giving  them  a  wide  margin  of  speculation  between 
death  by  shooting  or  flogging,  or  by  torture  or  starva- 
tion in  a  dungeon.  In  anj^  case,  we  gave  them  to 
understand  it  would  be  something  unusually  severe, 
and  failed  not  to  emphasise  our  threats  with  demoniac 
faces,  tones,  and  gestures,  till,  in  shaky  undertones, 
they  could  be  heard  muttering,  "  God  liclp  me  !  God 
help  me  !  " 

Nothing  occurred  to  disturb  our  hopes  during  the 
two  days  we  remained  quiet ;  but  then  that  did  not 
mean  much.     In    ^lorocco,    the    man    with   a    mission 


286  MOROCCO. 

liuinclies  his  bark  without  appai-ent  opposition.  San- 
(^•iiinc  of  success,  he  glides  peacefully  clown  a  smooth 
broad  stream.  In  time  he  sees  his  goal  looming  up 
alu'ad,  and  already  feels  success  assured.  Then  is 
his  moment  of  greatest  peril.  Almost  without  fail  a 
barrier  of  rocks  will  rise  up  before  him,  or,  still  worse, 
he  will  find  himself  being  swiftly  carried  over  a  w^ater- 
fall,  or  a  hidden  snag  will  swamp  his  frail  craft,  sinking 
all  his  fair  hopes  and  sanguine  expectations  to  the 
bottom,  and  him  with  them.  It  had  been  so  with  us 
at  Telnet ;   was  it  to  be  so  again  at  Amsmiz  ? 

On  being  ushered  into  the  presence  of  the  Kalifa — 
who,  like  the  Kaid  of  Demnat,  was  more  of  a  negro 
than  a  Moor — and  the  usual  compliments  over,  we  sim- 
ply told  him,  with  the  air  of  men  who  had  no  doubts 
about  their  position  and  rights,  that  on  the  morrow  we 
were  going  to  continue  our  way  to  Gindafy,  for  whom 
we  had  a  letter  from  the  Sultan.  We  desired  that  he 
should  have  a  guide  provided  for  us.  As  Assor  trans- 
lated our  authoritative  language,  we  watched  the  face 
of  the  Kalifa  with  no  small  anxiety  and  doubt.  Would 
he  put  a  pin  in  the  grandiloquent  bubbles  we  had 
inflated  to  overawe  him  ?  No  !  "  Walclr  !  "  (very  well) 
was  the  word  which  fell  sweetly  on  our  ears.  "  Inslial- 
lah  !  (please  God),  the  guide  will  be  ready."  After 
some  ordinary  talk,  we  walked  aw^ay  as  if  we  had  not 
any  material  body  to  support. 

Next  day,  there  in  very  truth  was  the  guide,  and 
no  countermanding  orders  from  the  Kalifa.  Still,  as 
long  as  we  were  in  the   neighbourhood  of  the  town, 


GLEN  OF  THE   WAD  AM  SMI  Z. 


1^7 


we  feared  the  worst.  The  men  would  ]iav(^  rebelled  if 
they  had  dared,  for  they  saw  once  more  the  hard  work, 
scanty  fare,  and  dangers  of  the  mountains  before  them, 
and  behind  them  the  easy  life,  princely  feeding,  and 
safety  of  the   plains.      They  had,  however,  acquired  a 


TUB 

CENTRAL  ATL.\S 


salutary  fear  of  us,  and  only  showed  their  feelings  in 
their  faces,  and  l)y  the  tardy  inaiiner  in  wliicli  they 
loaded  their  mules. 

As  wo  passed  through  the  ill-built  yet  picturesque 
town,  we  were  greeted  by  numerous  inquiries  as  to  our 


288  MOROCCO. 

destination.  "  Guel  will  show,"  we  replied  evasively, 
wrapping  ourselves  in  our  cloaks  of  Moorish  reserve. 

"  A  path  of  peace  to  you,"  greeted  us  more  com- 
monly as  we  passed  through  the  Jews'  quarter,  and 
many  of  its  inhabitants  hurried  forward  to  kiss  our 
hands  effusively,  while  the  lame  and  the  halt  clung  to 
our  stirrups  and  tried  to  embrace  our  very  boots,  till 
the  necessary  ^'Jlus  "  or  coppers  caused  them  to  desist 
from  their  undesirable  attentions. 

"Beware  of  the  Shellach,"  w^as  the  last  warning  we 
got  from  a  friendly  Moor,  to  which  our  pious  cook  re- 
plied, "  God  help  us  !  " 

In  half  an  hour,  hardly  able  to  believe  in  our  good 
luck,  we  had  traversed  the  undulating  slopes,  with 
their  rich  mottling  of  vine  and  olive  and  corn,  and 
had  reached  the  base  of  the  outer  range.  We  com- 
menced the  ascent  of  the  mountain  by  a  rocky  gully. 
The  lower  slopes  were  here  bright  with  gum  cistus, 
and  aglow  with  a  rich  bloom  of  wild  thyme,  which 
gave  an  unwonted  look  of  brightness  to  the  sad,  grey 
air  of  sterility  which  is  the  usual  summer  garb  of  the 
Atlas. 

In  about  an  hour  we  had  reached  the  shoulder  of 
the  spur,  over  which  we  had  to  pass  to  reach  the  glen 
leading  to  the  main  range.  From  our  coign  of  van- 
tage we  conld  now  take  in  the  wide  sweep  of  the 
lowlands  we  had  left,  the  grove-circled  town  of  Ams- 
miz,  and  the  tree-shaded  streams  from  the  Atlas  wind- 
ing like  green  snakes  through  the  yellow  burnt-up  plain 
of  ]\[orocco.      Faintly,  too,  through  this  weird  summer 


GLEN  OF  THE   WAD  AMSMIZ.  289 

slieen  could  bo  descried  the  garden-mottled  city  of 
Morocco,  from  wliicb  the  great  tower  of  the  Kutubia 
rose  conspicuous.  Of  more  immediate  interest  was 
the  glen  of  the  Wad  Amsraiz,  cutting  deep  into  the 
lower  ranges,  and  opening  up  a  varied  scene.  Massive 
precipices  of  slightly  dipping  yellow  limestone  con- 
trasted with  the  irregular  surface  features  of  grey 
friable  metamorphic  rocks  which  cropped  up  from  be- 
neath ;   while   awav   towards  the   head  of  the  ruergred 

^  V  CD 

glen  the  backbone  of  the  Atlas  rose  abruptly,  the  peak 
of  Tezah,  with  the  snow  still  gleaming  in  its  sheltering 
nooks,  giving  variety  to  its  otherwise  monotonous  fea- 
tures. The  cool  breeze  from  these  lofty  heights  came 
refreshingly  to  us  after  the  burning  heats  of  the  plains, 
and  the  brawling  torrent  a  thousand  feet  below  sent  to 
our  ears  the  soothing  sound  of  its  rushing  and  tum- 
bling waters. 

Along  this  glen  our  way  now  lay.  A  bridle-path 
wound  along  the  precipitous  and  rocky  slope,  appear- 
ing and  disappearing  in  its  many  irregularities  of  sur- 
face, a  mere  thread  in  the  wild  waste. 

Once  more  we  were  preoccupied  with  the  difficulties 
of  the  pathway.  Once  more  our  mules  engrossed  the 
larger  share  of  our  attention,  and  the  air  became 
musical  (or  otherwise)  with  the  sound  of  ^loorish  curses 
and  words  of  encouragement. 

In  spite  of  everything,  one  mule  did  go  over — the 
mule,  too,  which  carried  our  kitchen  utensils.  We 
rushed  with  dismay  after  the  unhappy  brute,  expect- 
ing to  find  a  mass  of  broken  bones  and  flattened  stew- 

T 


290  MOROCCO. 

pans,  AN'ith  difficulty  we  raised  it  to  its  feet,  and  pro- 
ceeded hastily  to  examine  it  and  the  contents  of  the 
pack.  We  piously  said  "  Amen  !  "  to  Hadj  the  cook's 
exclamation,  "  There  is  no  conqueror  but  God  !  "  when 
■\ve  discovered  that  the  mule's  bones  were  whole,  and 
that  the  damage  to  the  cookinj?  utensils  was  of  the 
slightest. 

For  a  good  part  of  the  way  we  kept  some  hundreds 
of  feet  above  the  bottom  of  the  glen,  passing  through 
a  bush  and  tree  scrub  of  resin-scented  CaMtris  and 
juniper,  of  holly-like  evergreen  oak  and  the  omni- 
present arbutus,  almost  the  sole  Avoody  competitors 
for  elbow-room  on  these  uncultivated  slopes.  It 
was  only  on  descending  to  the  bottom,  where  water 
throughout  the  year  is  abundant,  that  our  eyes  were 
gladdened  with  the  nobler  presence  of  walnut,  carob, 
ash,  poplar,  almond,  and  pomegranate,  which  here  rose 
into  the  dignity  of  trees,  and  shaded  the  cultivated 
terraces  of  the  mountaineers. 

Our  first  march  was  a  short  one.  Owing  to  the 
absence  of  supplies  farther  up,  we  had  perforce  to  camp 
while  the  day  was  still  young. 

It  had  never  before  been  our  good  luck  to  find  such 
a  charming  camping-ground.  In  the  Atlas  flat  pieces 
of  ground  covered  with  green  sward  and  sheltering 
trees  are  extreme  rarities  ;  but  here,  in  the  glen  of  the 
Wad  Amsmiz,  we  had  a  delightful  bit  of  turf  on  which 
to  pitch  our  tents,  splendid  walnut  trees  to  shade 
them,  a  noisy  torrent  to  babble  at  our  feet,  and  majestic 
mountains  to  fold  us  in  their  "iant  arms  and   cool  the 


GLEN  OF  THE    WAD  AMSMIZ.  291 

tropic  lioats.  Berber  villages  also  were  at-  liaml,  to 
send  us  store  of  corn  for  mules  and  horses,  milk,  eggs, 
and  fowls  for  ourselves,  and  kuskussu,  tajen,  and  harley- 
bannocks  for  our  attendants. 

We  learned  that  there  were  some  so-called  Christian 
remains  in  the  neighbourhood.  Taught  by  former 
experience,  we  were  somewhat  sceptical  as  to  their 
reputed  origin,  but  we  nevertheless  started  off  to  visit 
them  and  determine,  if  possible,  what  they  really  were. 

Our  course  lay  up  a  most  charming  ravine  cut  out 
of  beds  of  yellow  and  white  limestone  and  sandstone, 
whose  rugged  angularities  were  veiled  antl  beautified 
Iw  a  rich  draping  of  ivy,  dogrose,  honeysuckle,  and 
bramble.  Among  their  bright  green  foliage  numerous 
springs  splashed  and  trickled,  giving  the  leaves  a  fairy 
covering  of  glistening  water-drops  wherever  the  rays  of 
the  summer  sun  happened  to  fall.  Above  everything 
we  were  delighted  to  find  among  the  fallen  blocks,  and 
in  the  shady  nooks  of  the  ravines,  a  profusion  of  daisies, 
perfect  counterparts,  except  for  a  dash  of  blue  on  the 
petals,  of  our  own  dear  fuiuiliar  lield-tlower. 

While  delightedly  peering  about  and  struggling  from 
rock  to  rock  in  search  of  new  plants,  quite  forgetful  of 
the  pi'imary  object  of  our  stroll,  we  w-ere  suddenly  as- 
tonished to  find  ourselves  standing  u[)iiii  a  beautifully 
quarried  and  dressed  block  of  stone  weighing  from  a 
ton  and  a  half  to  two  tons.  "  Something  of  the  Hum  " 
(Christians)  "  at  last,"  we  mentally  ejaculated,  as  we 
remarked  the  well-s(|uared  and  moulded  shape  of  the 
block.      A  little  farther  oil"  was  another,  and  speedily 


292  MOROCCO. 

we  liatl  discovered  quite  a  number,  of  varied  size  and 
shape,  but  all  equally  well  quarried  and  prepared  for 
the  chisel  of  the  mason.  "  But  what  were  they  intended 
fur  ? "  we  asked  ourselves.  Nobody  would  dream  of 
building  a  house  such  as  needed  stones  of  these  dimen- 
sions in  a  desolate  glen  like  that  of  the  Wad  Amsmiz. 
They  must,  therefore,  have  been  quarried  for  some 
building  out  in  the  plains.  That  conclusion  only 
opened  up  another  difficulty ;  for  how  were  stones, 
weighing  in  some  cases  quite  two  tons,  to  be  conveyed 
down  a  rocky  gorge  which  half-loaded  pack-mules 
traversed  with  difficulty  ?  No  planking  could  be  laid 
down,  and  rollers  were  out  of  the  question.  No  solu- 
tion of  the  question  occurring  to  us,  we  gave  the  puzzle 
up,  while  we  canvassed  a  second  problem.  Could  the 
Eomans  have  quarried  these  stones  with  their  custo- 
mary building  enterprise  ;  or  had  it  been  the  Moors  in 
the  good  old  days  when  they  led  the  van  of  civilisation, 
and  were  shining  lights  even  to  the  peoples  of  Europe  ? 

It  had  never  been  made  out  that  the  Romans  were 
established  so  firmly  at  the  base  of  the  Atlas  as  the 
quarrying  of  such  building  materials  would  naturally 
imph',  while  it  had  been  shown  that  the  Moors  had 
been  capable  of  great  building  enterprise.  We  could 
not,  therefore,  but  conclude  that  the  balance  of  argu- 
ment was  decidedly  in  favour  of  the  Moors,  Still 
there  was  the  question,  How  were  such  blocks  to  be 
conveyed  down  the  glen  ? 

Our  puzzled  speculations  took  a  new  turn  when,  in 
the  search  for  enlightenment,  we  wandered  farther  up 


GLEN  OF  run   WAD  AMSMIZ.  293 

the  ravine,  and  found  a  new  source  of  interest  in  the 
discovery  of  a  magnificent  sprin<]^  bubbling  up  in  crys- 
talline clearness  from  a  hole  at  the  bottom  of  a  preci- 
pice, and  in  such  volume  as  to  form  a  very  iiue  stream. 

The  natives  declare  unanimously  that  there  is  a 
huge  iron  grating  across  the  mouth  of  the  spring, 
firmly  fixed  in  the  solid  rock.  This  statement  was 
corroborated  by  Slialum,  whose  information  we  had 
always  found  phenomenally  trustworthy  for  Morocco, 
and  he  declared  that  on  a  previous  occasion  he  had 
seen  the  grating,  and  described  the  bars  as  being 
as  thick  as  a  man's  wrist.  We  ourselves  could  not 
see  the  grating,  owing  to  the  turbulent  boiling  of  the 
water,  which  was  then  dammed  back  to  raise  it  to  a 
higher  level  for  conveyance  by  an  artificial  channel  to 
the  terraces  of  the  mountaineers.  Of  course  a  halo  of 
romance  gathered  round  this  wonderful  spring  with  its 
sealed  mouth.  Treasures  were  unhesitatingly  spoken 
of,  and  magic  seals.  i\Iarvellous  virtues  were  ascribed 
to  its  waters,  and  dire  punishment  predicted  to  any 
one  who  would  have  the  hardihood  to  violate  its  charm- 
protected  sanctity. 

We  began  to  ask  ourselves  if  there  could  be  any 
connection  between  the  dressed  blocks  and  this  magical 
spring,  but  laughingly  concluding  that  there  could  be 
no  end — certainly  no  satisfactory  end — to  the  questions 
which  might  be  asked,  we  hurried  on  to  inspect  some 
ruins  close  to  the  village  of  Imintella,  also  ascribed  to 
the  Christians  or  Hum.  The  situation  and  character 
of  these  remains  were  certainly  very  remarkable.      They 


294  MOROCCO. 

were  undoubtedly  ancient,  but  a  glance  at  the  style  of 
architecture,  and  at  the  lime  and  mud-formed  concrete 
of  the  walls,  was  sufficient  to  tell  that,  if  of  Cliristian 
origin  at  all,  they  must  have  been  the  work  of  the 
native  Christians,  who  seem  to  have  largely  occupied 
Morocco  before  the  Mohammedan  conquest,  but  of  whom 
almost  nothing  is  known  but  a  name. 

On  our  return  to  cam})  in  the  cool  of  the  afternoon, 
and  while  refreshing  ourselves  with  a  cup  of  tea,  our 
attention  was  attracted  by  the  sight  of  a  humble  way- 
farer descending  the  glen.  He  was  driving  a  lowly 
ass  before  him,  with  many  resounding  whacks  on  its 
scantily  covered  bones,  and  lusty  invocations  of  Allah 
to  witness  its  obstinacy.  Heedless,  however,  alike  of 
voice  and  arm,  the  ass's  ears  and  tail  wagged  with  the 
same  pendulum  regularity,  and  its  little  hoofs  pattered 
at  the  same  even  pace  over  the  rocky  pathway. 

There  was  something  in  the  dress  and  appearance 
of  the  wanderer,  as  well  as  in  the  basket  which  was 
securely  strapped  to  the  donkey,  that  suggested  an 
Aissawa — that  is,  a  follower  of  Sidi  Ai^sa,  in  whose 
name  the  true  believer  is  enabled  to  resist  the  poison 
of  snakes,  to  eat  glass,  and  to  do  a  number  of  horrible 
things  with  perfect  security  and  enjoyment. 

Eager  to  see  some  of  these  feats  under  such  favour- 
able circumstances,  I  hurried  forward  to  secure  him 
ere  he  passed. 

"  Welcome,  oh  stranger,  to  our  tents,"  I  cried, 
anxious  to  practise  my  Arabic.  A  scowl  alone  showed 
that    the    inheritor   of  the    promises    had    heard    my 


GLEN  OF  THE   WAD  AMSMIZ.  295 

greeting  and  scorned  the  hospitality  of  a  Nazarene 
and  rebel  against  God.  "  Peace  be  with  you,"  I  once 
more  ventured  hesitatingly. 

"  Peace  be  unto  the  true  believer,"  ho  replied  briefly 
and  with  marked  emphasis. 

My  Arabic  and  my  good  spirits  here  failed  me ; 
but  Hadj  M'hamad  came  to  the  rescue.  The  eye  of 
the  Aissawa  glistened  on  seeing  the  pipe  of  kief  (bang) 
which  Iladj  carried  in  his  hand. 

"Listen,  oh  happy  believer  in  our  Lord  Mohammed  (on 
whom  be  peace),  to  the  words  of  the  Anasera  (Christian). 
Show  iiim  your  miracles.  He  will  enrich  you  with 
silver,  and  perchance  he  may  yet  acknowledge,  through 
the  grace  of  Sidi  Aissa,  the  One  God  and  Ills  Prophet.' 

The  frailties  of  the  flesh  were,  happily  for  us,  stronger 
than  his  spiritual  repulsions,  and  decoyed  by  Hadj's 
kief  pipe,  the  snake-charmer  was  brought  into  camp. 
Further  mollified  bv  the  soothintj  fumes  and  the  sit^ht  of 
a  dollar,  he  consented  to  exhibit  the  miraculous  powers 
given  to  those  who  follow  the  banner  of  Sidi  Aissa. 

Laying  the  basket  of  snakes  on  the  ground,  he 
commenced  to  circle  round  it  with  a  curious  step, 
chanting  meanwhile  an  invocation  to  his  patron  saint. 
He  accompanied  his  wild  chant  with  a  large  tam- 
bourine, which  he  vigorously  thumped  with  his  hand. 
Commencing  at  first  slowly,  with  a  plaintive  wail  in  his 
voice,  and  a  depressed  worn-out  look  in  his  spare  and 
haggard  features,  he  gradually  warmed  up  to  a  more 
exalted  condition  of  religious  excitement.  His  eyes 
became  brighter,  his  expression  more  animated,  as  he 


296  MOROCCO. 

struck  tlie  tambourine  with  ever-increasinsr  visfour,  and 
wliirlecl  round  and  round  the  Ijasket  with  floatin<^  gar- 
ments, and  long"  black  hair  falling  down  his  back  in 
matted  locks.  Suddenly,  in  the  midst  of  his  wild 
gyrations  he  stooped  down,  fearlessly  inserted  his  hand 
into  the  basket  and  dragged  forth  two  snakes. 

The  music  was  now  over.  Only  the  brawling  stream 
broke  the  silence.  For  a  moment  the  Aissawa  stood 
still  in  wild  elation,  the  venomous  reptiles  coiling 
round  his  uplifted  arm,  while  we  sat  breathless  watch- 
ing the  strange  scene.  Time  after  time,  the  snakes 
bit  his  naked  arms  viciously,  he  calmly  and  unflinch- 
ingly looking  at  them.  The  performer  now  took  an 
onion  leaf,  and  with  it  scratched  his  leg  till  he  drew 
blood.  After  that  he  returned  one  of  the  snakes  to  its 
basket.  For  a  moment  he  held  the  other  aloft  by  the 
neck,  man  and  reptile  glaring  fixedly  at  each  other,  as 
if  trying  which  had  the  superior  power  of  fascination. 
While  we  still  wondered  what  was  to  be  the  next  move, 
he  suddenly  raised  the  snake  to  his  mouth.  A  vicious 
snap  and  the  snake  was  headless,  though  it  still  wrig- 
gled in  unceasing  convulsions.  With  incredible  rapi- 
dity the  snake's  head  was  chewed  and  swallowed.  Our 
disgusted  protest  was  unheeded,  as,  rigid,  with  eyes 
fixed  and  air  of  intense  absorption,  the  charmer  next 
bit  off  several  inches  from  the  body  of  the  snake.  His 
eye  now  assumed  a  stonier  glare,  and  he  appeared  to  be 
utterly  oblivious  of  his  surroundings.  The  poison  of 
the  snake  was  coursing  through  his  veins,  and  he  was 
in  the  fell  clutches  of  delirium.     Once   or  twice  more 


GLEN  OF  THE    WAD  AMSMIZ.  297 

he  tore  with  wolfish  appetite  at  his  now  passive  victim. 
Then  his  madness  took  a  new  form.  He  threw  him- 
self prone  on  the  earth,  and  on  all  fours  jumped 
about  with  brutish  gestures  and  wild  animal  howls, 
gnashing  the  ground  with  his  teeth  or  chewing  mouth- 
fuls  of  grass.  A  more  strange  or  sickening  scene  it 
would  be  difficult  to  imagine — the  snake-charmer,  in 
the  paroxysm  of  mad  delirium,  grovelling  on  the  earth 
with  the  howls  and  action  of  a  wild  beast,  his  hand 
still  clutching  the  half-eaten  snake  ;  around  him  the 
awestruck  circle  of  spectators — the  two  Europeans  fas- 
cinated yet  disgusted,  their  Jewish  followers  shrink- 
ing behind  them  in  terror,  lest,  as  sometimes  happens 
on  these  occasions,  the  fanatic  in  his  maniacal  fury 
turn  upon  them  ;  and  the  believing  Moors  calling 
upon  Allah  and  His  Prophet,  upon  Sidi  Aissa  and  all 
the  saints  of  the  Moorish  calendar,  to  save  and  protect 
their  servant.  The  deeply-foliaged  walnuts  threw  a 
sombre  shadow  over  all ;  the  Wad  Amsmiz  swept  past 
at  our  side  with  iiiouriiful  roar,  and  far  above  the  grey 
mountains  frowning  down  upon  us  in  majestic  silence. 
At  times  the  madman  sprang  to  his  feet,  tossed 
his  arms  witli  wild  entreating  gesture  towards  tlie 
heavens,  his  eyes  glaring  like  an  enraged  beast  or 
fixed  in  ecstatic  contemplation  of  space.  Then  again 
and  again  he  would  snap  ravenously  at  what  remained 
of  the  limp  snake,  or  once  more  throw  himself  down 
on  the  ground,  clutch  it  with  his  claw-like  fingers, 
and  roll  about  in  all  the  abandonment  of  excruciating 
agony. 


298  MOROCCO. 

In  one  of  these  latter  paroxysms  Hadj  M'hamad 
slipped  to  the  side  of  the  unconscious  and  wnthing 
Aissawa,  and  waiting  his  opportunity,  snatched  the 
remainder  of  the  snake  from  him,  substituting  for 
it  a  tough  piece  of  raw  mutton.  Seemingly  un- 
conscious of  the  change,  he  tore  at  the  mutton  with 
undiminished  relish  and  ferocity.  By  and  bye  the 
height  of  the  frenzy  passed  away.  The  man  lay 
still  or  restlessly  rocked  himself  from  side  to  side. 
Again  Hadj  was  equal  to  the  occasion.  Picking  up 
the  tambourine,  he  commenced  slowly  dancing  and 
drumming  round  the  other's  prostrate  form.  Soon,  but 
without  taking  any  apparent  notice  of  these  attentions, 
the  snake-charmer  commenced  moving  about  in  a  weird, 
wild  dancing  step,  in  which  Hadj  joined.  All  at  once 
he  sank  to  the  ground  paralysed,  moaning  and  quiver- 
ing as  if  in  his  death-throes.  Hadj,  bending  over, 
vigorously  fanned  him.  The  crisis  soon  passed  ;  the 
moaning  ceased,  and  his  limbs  were  still.  The  Moors 
continually  muttered  their  prayers  with  bent  heads  and 
hands  held  in  an  attitude  of  supplication.  The  Jews 
said  not  a  word,  and  we  ourselves  were  also  silent,  struck 
by  the  impressiveness  of  the  scene  in  the  fast  gathering 
shadows  of  evening.  Finally  the  Aissawa  looked  up. 
His  eye  wore  a  softer  expression,  though  the  foam  still 
rested  about  his  mouth.  His  face  was  haggard  and  of 
death-like  hue.  The  deadliness  of  the  poison  had  been 
overcome  and  the  delirium  driven  away.  With  one 
voice  the  Moors  acknowledged  the  greatness  and 
omnipotence  of  Allah,  and   hastened  to  assist  the  ex- 


GLEN  or  run  wad  amsmiz.  299 

hausted  servant  of  Siili  Aissa  to  rise  and  proceed  t(j 
the  camp-fire,  where  kief",  the  eartlily  consoler,  soon 
sootlied  liis  unstrung  nerves. 

An  liour  hitcr,  wliile  I  sat  in  my  tent  chronicling 
these  doings  as  I  now  place  them  before  you,  I  was 
disturbed  by  my  companion  calling  upon  me  to  come 
out  at  once.  There  was  something  in  his  tone  which 
made  mc  lay  aside  the  pen  foi'thwith  and  hurry  out 
into  the  darkness.  Round  the  glowing  camp-fire  our 
men  were  gathered,  their  swarthy  lineaments  and  white 
robes  contrasting  picturesquely  in  the  ruddy  glare  with 
Ihe  fair  face  and  Pairopean  dress  of  Mr.  Crichton- 
Brovvne.  While  I  stood  for  a  moment  enjoying  the 
romantic  aspect  of  the  scene,  my  eyes  were  suddenly 
attracted  to  the  Aissawa.  From  the  centre  of  the 
glowing  embers  he  drew  forth  a  piece  of  charcoal,  held 
it — I  will  not  say  coolly — between  the  tips  of  his  fingers, 
while  he  blew  it  to  a  white  heat ;  then  with  a  prelimi- 
nary "  Bismillah  ! "  he  calmly  put  it  into  his  month, 
and  leisurely  munched,  then  swallowed  it,  with  evident 
signs  of  enjoyment,  while  the  JNLoors  broke  into  cries  of 
"  Allah  Akbar  !  "  (''  God  is  great "). 

Apparently,  the  Aissawa  had  eaten  his  dinner  first  and 
was  cooking  it  afterwards.  He  helped  himself  to  the 
charcoal,  not  once  or  twice,  but  several  times,  till  evi- 
dently he  was  sure  that  his  snake  was  thoroughly  done. 
At  any  rate  he  had  demonstrated  to  the  satisfaction  of  all 
the  assembled  believers  that  there  was  none  but  the 
one  God,  that  Mohammed  was  His  Prophet,  and  Sidi 
Aissa  not  the  least  amonjx  the  saints. 


(     300    ) 


CHAPTER  XXI. 

GINDAFY. 

We  left  our  cliarming  camp  of  Imintella  as  usual  at 
sunrise  for  our  second  crossing  of  the  main  range. 
Our  route  still  lay  along  the  Amsmiz  stream,  crossing 
its  rocky  bed  every  few  hundred  yards,  according  as 
the  exigencies  of  the  gorge  demanded,  and  winding 
through  a  narrow  strip  of  magnificent  walnut  trees. 

As  we  pushed  our  way  deeper  into  the  mountains, 
we  remarked  the  appearance  of  a  new  factor  in  the 
geology  of  the  Atlas.  On  the  east  side  of  the  glen 
the  formation  was  metamoiphic,  consisting  of  clay- 
slates  and  schistose  rocks  pierced  by  porphyry  veins. 
On  the  west  the  rocks  were  yellow  and  reddish  sand- 
stones and  limestones,  unconformably  overlying  the 
older  series,  the  straight  lines  of  bedding  shown  along 
the  hillside,  and  the  even  terrace-like  surface,  being  in 
marked  contrast  with  the  jagged  outlines  of  the  debris- 
strewn  slope  of  the  opposing  metamorphic  areas. 

A  mile  above  camp  the  cretaceous  (?)  rocks  ended 
suddenly  against  the  friable  clay-slates  and  greywackes, 
which  abruptly  rose  from  beneath,  and  towered  high 
up  in  the  central  mass  of  mountains. 


GIN  DA  FY.  301 

In  ail  liour  we  reached  a  point  where  the  Wad  Ams- 
iniz  divides  and  embraces  the  massive  front  of  Jebel 
Tezali,  a  conspicuous  peak  in  tlie  main  axis,  ascended 
by  Hooker,  and  rather  erroneously  named  so  by  him  ; 
"  tezah"  or  "  tizi  "  simply  meaning  in  the  Shellach  lan- 
guage a  pass  or  a  mountain  over  which  one  crosses. 
The  name,  however,  may  be  retained  for  convenience. 

Following  the  chief  branch,  we  found  ourselves 
penetrating  in  a  south-westerly  direction  deep  into  the 
central  mass,  tlie  gorge  narrowing  as  we  proceeded,  the 
slopes  rising  more  abruptly  and  ruggedly  to  a  height 
of  9000  feet  on  our  right,  and  from  10,000  to  i  i,000 
feet  on  our  left.  But  for  the  prevalence  of  walnut 
trees  of  great  size  and  an  occasional  hamlet,  we  might 
have  imagined  we  were  penetrating  a  mountain  glen 
in  the  Southern  Scottish  Highlands,  so  similar  were 
the  general  characteristics  of  the  scene.  The  surface 
features  and  geology  were  the  same  ;  the  wild  thyme 
gave  the  glow  and  colour  of  the  heather,  while  spleen- 
worts  and  scale  ferns  decked  the  rocks,  and  daisies 
bloomed  in  every  sheltered  spot. 

Near  the  division  of  the  stream  there  were  numerous 
ruins  of  hamlets,  the  sight  of  which  at  first  gave  rise 
to  nioralisings  on  the  sad  results  of  ]\[oorish  misgovern- 
ment.  We  speedily  found,  however,  that  the  desolation 
was  due  to  an  even  more  terrible  curse,  and  that  some 
ten  years  previous  a  drought  and  consequent  famine 
had  swept  off  the  inhabitants. 

'^J'wo  hours  from  camji  we  reached  the  end  of  the 
stream,  or  rather  the   point  where   it   breaks   up   into 


302  MOROCCO. 

numerous  rivulets,  spreading'  themselves  over  tlie  face 
of  the  peaked  mountain  tliat  ends  the  gorge,  as  Tezah 
fronts  the  main  glen  of  the  Wad  Amsmiz.  At  this 
point  we  had  to  commence  the  ascent  of  the  range. 
In  the  marvellously  clear  atmosphere  this  did  not  seem 
a  great  undertaking,  but  in  reality  we  had  a  climb 
of  some  5000  feet  before  us.  A  zigzag  pathway,  ap- 
parently fit  only  for  a  goat,  could  be  faintly  traced 
running  up  the  mountain-side,  marking  out  the  route 
ratlier  than  assisting  us  in  the  ascent.  The  rock  for- 
mation being  an  exceedingly  friable  clay-slate,  the 
slope  presented  a  desolate  appearance  of  barren  mono- 
tonous uniformity,  sparsely  dotted  over  with  a  few 
stunted  prickly  shrubs,  and  rarely  brightened  with  a 
flower.  The  higher  we  climbed,  the  steeper  and  more 
dangerous  became  the  slope,  till  we  feared  we  should 
have  to  unload  what  little  the  mules  carried  to  enable 
them  to  struggle  to  the  top.  Of  all  the  animals, 
however,  Toby  most  deserved  sympathy.  Assor,  our 
interpreter,  besides  being  lame  and  fat,  was  totally 
unaccustomed  to  mountaiu-cliniblng,  yet  somehow  or 
other  we  must  contrive  to  get  him  to  the  top.  His 
mule  not  being  equal  to  the  task  of  carrying  both 
him  and  its  small  pack,  there  was  nothing  for  it 
but  to  let  him  ride  my  horse.  The  plucky  little 
beast  did  not  belie  its  reputation  for  hardiness  and 
sure-footedness,  but  more  than  once  I  held  my  breath 
in  expectation  of  some  frightful  accident,  or  clung 
with  might  and  main  to  Toby's  tail  in  order  to 
avert  the  impending  catastrophe.      All  along  the  grey 


GIN  PA  FY.  303 

barren  slope  we  saw  no  sign  of  bird  or  other  iivini^ 
creature,  and  tlie  only  sounds  wliicli  lell  upon  the 
ear  were  the  mournful  sigh  of  the  winds  sweeping 
along  the  mountain-side,  and  the  melancholy  sough  of 
the  stream  two  or  three  thousand  feet  below.  Our 
men,  however,  failed  not  to  waken  the  echoes  of  the 
glen  with  their  cries  of  threat  or  of  encouragement. 

By  dint  of  patience  and  many  persevering  struggles 
we  at  length  reached  the  top,  at  an  elevation  of  little 
short  of  10,000  feet.  On  halting  to  regain  breath 
and  look  around,  the  first  thing  I  became  aware  of  was 
the  disagreeable  fact  that  Gindafy,  for  which  I  was 
bound,  did  not,  like  Teluet,  lie  on  the  south  side  of  the 
Atlas,  but  in  the  very  heart  of  it.  This  was  a  most 
disappointing  discovery  ;  for  when  I  expected  to  see  the 
southern  lower  ranges,  and  even  the  valley  of  Sus,  at 
my  feet,  there  lay  scattered  an  opposing  though  some- 
what lower  barrier  of  mountains  called  Wishdan,  and 
between,  the  great  yawning  glen  of  the  Wad  Nyfis, 
running  parallel  with  the  main  axis.  This  cleft  in  the 
range  was  Gindafy. 

The  scene  around,  however,  gradually  made  us  for- 
get for  a  time  our  grievous  disappointment,  for,  with- 
out exception,  it  was  the  grandest  and  most  strikingly 
varied  mountain  landscape  we  had  yet  seen  in  the 
Atlas.  A  bewildering  assemblage  of  range  and  peak 
and  glen  surrounded  us ;  on  all  sides  serrated  out- 
lines and  fantastic  forms.  Five  thousand  feet  beneath 
were  the  green  fields  and  terraces  of  (iindafy.  Dark 
masses  of  arar  and  evergreen  oak  mottled  its  cradling 


304  MOROCCO. 

slopes,  and  the  crests  of  the  circling  mountains  were 
chequered  with  wreaths  of  dazzling  snow.  On  the 
east  the  glen  was  closed  by  the  great  amorphous 
snow-clad  masses  over  Reraya,  which  rise  to  a  height 
of  14,000  feet.  To  the  south  the  southern  tip  of  the 
cleft  range,  having  Wishdan  as  its  conspicuous  feature, 
was  remarkable  for  the  gleaming  aspect  of  the  crys- 
talline limestones  which  cropped  out  along  its  axis. 
To  the  west  the  glen  could  be  seen  to  divide  into  two 
great  gorges,  separated  by  a  narrow  mountain  ridge, 
and  quickly  closed  by  the  curving  round  of  the  Wish- 
dan  range  to  join  the  one  on  which  we  stood.  Near 
the  head  of  the  Nyfis,  in  bold  isolation,  rose  a  con- 
spicuous snow-clad  peak  called  Ogdint. 

The  whole  aspect  of  the  scene  differed  widely  from 
any  we  had  hitherto  looked  upon  farther  east.  There 
the  Atlas  had  exhibited  table-topped  heights,  escarped 
ridges,  and  straight  lines  of  bedding  running  like  walls 
of  masonry  along  the  ridge  of  the  slopes,  while  the 
surface  colours  had  been  bright  with  a  rich  mottling 
of  red  and  purple.  Ilcre  instead  was  a  much  more 
denuded  region,  distinguished  by  sharp  peaks  and 
ridges,  jagged  and  rugged  outlines  and  slopes,  for  the 
most  part  covered  with  grey  slatey  debris  of  mourn- 
fullest  aspect.  The  explanation  lay  in  the  geological 
formation.  We  were  now  in  a  metaraorphic  area  of 
exceedingly  friable  clay-slates  and  stiffening  masses 
of  less  easily  weathered  greywackes,  while  to  the  east 
were  grey  and  white  limestones  and  red  and  purple 
shales  and  sandstones  of  the  cretaceous  age.      Though 


GIN  DA  FY.  305 

wanting  in  some  of  the  effects,  and  especial  1\'  in  the 
rich  colouring,  the  mountain  scenery  around  us  was 
more  effective  and  picturesque.  What  it  wanted  in 
massiveness  it  made  up  by  tlie  sharpness  of  its  fan- 
tastic peaks,  the  serrated  outlines  of  its  ridges,  the 
depth  of  its  glens,  and  the  generally  more  varied 
character  of  its  outline.  But  we  had  still  far  to  2:0  to 
reach  our  destination,  and  we  could  not  afford  to  spend 
much  time  over  the  landscape  around  us. 

If  the  ascent  of  the  Tizi  Nemiri  from  the  north  side 
liad  been  bad,  the  descent  on  the  south  side  seemed 
from  where  we  stood  to  be  utterly  out  of  the  question. 
Never  in  the  course  of  all  my  mountaineering  have  I 
seen  a  mountain  path  of  such  exceeding  steepness. 
There  was  nothing  for  it,  however,  but  to  shrug  our 
shoulders  and  re-echo  our  men's  pious  expressions  of 
trust  in  Allah  that  the  descent  would  be  accomplished 
somehow.  At  the  same  time,  mindful  of  the  sayino- 
that  "  Heaven  helps  those  who  help  themselves,"  we 
failed  not  to  exhort  our  men  to  keep  firm  hold  of  the 
nniles'  tails,  as  they  hoped  fur  a  place  in  Paradise,  and 
to  escape  punishment  at  our  hands. 

In  an  hour  we  had  descended  quite  4000  feet  to  a 
lateral  feeder  of  the  Nyfis.  Our  course,  though  less 
dangerous,  then  became  more  rough  and  toilsome  down 
the  rocky  bed  of  the  stream.  No  Christian  mule  or 
horse  could  ever  have  descended  that  rocky  defile,  but 
ours,  reared  in  a  different  religious  atmosphere,  went 
along  with  all  the  agility  and  surc-footedness  of  a  goat. 

By   and   bye  the    narrow    rugged    glen    became   an 

U 


3o6  MOROCCO. 

impassable  gorge,  and  wc  were  compelled  to  leave  it 
and  cut  across  the  mountain  buttress  or  spur  which 
separated  ns  from  the  main  glen  of  the  Nyfis.  This 
was  by  far  the  nastiest  bit  we  had  yet  met  with,  and 
more  than  once  with  breathless  expectancy  we  watched 
our  mules  as  they  passed  dangerous  places  where  the 
slightest  touch  of  the  pack  on  the  opposing  cliffs  or 
rocks  would  have  sufficed  to  precipitate  the  unlucky 
animal  to  the  bottom  of  an  abyss.  The  hair-breadth 
escapes,  seeming  or  otherwise,  were  many,  keeping  us 
continually  on  the  rack,  all  the  more  as  mules  and 
men  alike  were  unaccustomed  to  these  mountain  paths 
and  dangers,  and  were  alike  afraid.  Moreover,  the 
drivers  were  indifferent  to  our  affairs,  and  were  being 
forced  into  these  wilds  against  their  will.  Consequently 
they  cared  little  what  happened  to  our  animals  so  long  as 
they  themselves  were  safe.  Constant  threats  and  re- 
monstrances and  never-tiring  vigilance  were  required  to 
keep  them  to  their  duty,  our  enjoyment  of  the  scenes 
and  of  the  pleasant  excitements  of  the  route  being  thus 
continuall}"  spoiled.  In  spite  of  all  our  precautions, 
one  man  all  but  came  to  a  sad  end.  A  pack  suddenly 
slipped  from  a  mule  which  was  trying  to  climb  up  a 
steep  rock,  and  coming  down  on  the  driver  before  he 
was  aware,  nearly  hurled  him  into  the  depths  below. 

Without  further  accident  the  shoulder  of  the  spur 
was  reached,  and  there  before  us,  now  only  a  thousand 
feet  below,  lay  the  valley  of  Gindafy.  After  the 
bleak  desolateness  of  the  upper  heights,  the  groves  and 
fields  which    clad    the   bottom   of  this   mountain  cleft 


GIN  DA  FY.  307 

l()uke(]  (jiiite  luxuriant ,  ;uul  certainly  very  pleasing.  I 
was  uuicli  surprised  by  the  discoveiy  that  here,  in  the 
very  heart  of  the  Atlas,  in  what  was  little  more  than  a 
deep  longitudinal  hole  or  pocket  in  the  central  axis, 
was  a  sharj)  syncliiie  of  red  sandstone,  like  a  crust  or 
lining  to  the  sides  of  the  glen,  and  overlying  the 
nietaniorphic  rocks  which  form  the  mass  of  the  chain. 

This  unexpected  sight  set  my  brains  aworking,  and 
opened  up  an  interesting  vista  of  geological  speculation. 
Had  this  little — for  little  comparatively  it  could  be 
seen  to  be — had  this  little  syncline  of  sandstone,  with 
its  angular  stones  disseminated  through  it,  been  simply 
caught  up  in  the  primary  folding  or  crumpling  of  the 
rocks  which  had  produced  the  Atlas  range  ;  or  had  the 
sandstone  been  deposited  in  some  mountain  tarn,  the 
forerunner  of  the  valley  of  the  present  day,  and  sub- 
sequently squeezed  into  its  present  form  and  position 
by  a  second  series  of  foldings  ?  The  latter  theory  then 
and  afterwards  most  commended  itself  to  my  mind. 

From  the  point  wo  had  now  reached  we  could  see 
numerous  villages,  but  we  were  specially  attracted  by 
the  sight  of  a  massive  castellated  building  in  the  very 
centre  of  the  valley,  past  which  winded  the  fine  stream 
of  the  Nylis.  This  building  we  had  no  diflicultv  in 
identifying  as  the  Kasbah  of  the  Kaid  of  the  province. 

AVe  speedily  reached  the  bottom  of  the  glen,  and 
then  by  an  easy  pathway  pushed  on  rapidly  along  the 
banks  of  the  stream. 

Tt  was  with  no  small  misgiving  that  we  approached 
the  Kasbah.      The  glen  had  only   some   two  or  three 


3o8  MOROCCO. 

years  before  succumbed  to  tlie  power  of  tlie  Sultan. 
The  Kaid  and  his  people  were  known  to  be  still  smai't- 
inc  under  the  ruin  brought  on  them  in  the  long  period 
during  which  they  had  strenuously  fought  for  their 
independence.  That  independence  had  only  been  half 
lost,  and  the   Sultan's   supremacy   was   more  nominal 


KASBAH,   GINDAFT. 


than  real.  Under  these  circumstances,  we  were 
coming  not  only  in  the  character  of  hated  infidels, 
but  as  Kaffirs  under  the  partial  protection  of  their 
cordially  detested  master — anything  but  a  recommen- 
dation. Our  death  or  spoliation  could  be  followed  by 
no  bad  consequences  to  them.      We  hoped  the  most, 


GIN  DA  FY.  309 

however,  from  tho  kindlier  feelings  and  less  virulent 
antipathy  to  Christians  which  prevail  among  the 
Shellach. 

It  was  nearly  sunset  when  we  approached  the  castle. 
A  couple  of  hundred  yards  from  it  an  awkward  pause 
ensued.  Assor's  mule  had  lain  down  and  thrown  him 
over  its  head.  A  relief  party  had  to  return  to  raise 
the  mule  and  hoist  him  on  its  back.  Meanwhile  a 
great  flutter  was  observable  about  the  castle  on  the 
sudden  appearance  of  our  strange  party.  People 
crowded  on  the  roof  and  the  terraces.  They  filled 
every  door  and  window,  awaiting  the  development  of 
events.  Intense  evidently  was  the  speculation  as  to 
the  meaning  of  this  mysterious  inroad  into  these  dan- 
gerous and  unfrequented  parts. 

At  length  two  messen^^ers  left  the  castle  to  accost 
us,  and  at  the  same  time  Assor  came  up  with  us. 

Our  credentials  having  been  shown,  and  our  rank 
and  dignities  announced,  we  were  properly  welcomed 
in  the  name  of  the  Kaid.  The  wordy  welcome  was 
better  than  the  practical  fulfilment.  We  were  led 
round  the  castle  and  shown  into  a  miserable  window- 
less  room  in  an  outhouse,  reeking  with  dirt,  and  evi- 
dently swarming  with  bugs  and  lleas. 

We  expressed  our  indignation  in  no  measured  terms, 
but  we  wei*e  told  that  that  was  all  the  Kuid  had  to  give 
us.  Our  )iioii((  was  as  scanty  as  at  other  places  it  had 
been  abundant. 

Next  day  matters  were  no  more  encouraging.  The 
Kaid  would  not  see  us  or  receive  our  messengers,  and 


3IO  ■  MOROCCO. 

no  food  was  sent,  a  fact  wliicli  on  the  plains  would 
have  made  our  gluttonous  men  rage  like  demons,  but 
here  onlv  threw  them  into  a  state  of  sullen  resiofna- 
tion,  born  of  the  fear  of  worse  to  follow.  Defiantly 
we  tried  to  penetrate  within  the  precincts  of  the  castle, 
but  had  the  door  slammed  ignominiously  in  our  faces  ; 
and,  fearful  of  a  bullet  from  one  of  the  flint-locks 
carried  by  the  mountaineers  on  the  castle-walls,  we 
retired  crestfallen.  We  were  watched  on  all  sides  as 
dangerous  animals,  whose  habits  must  be  carefully 
studied  before  they  could  be  approached  with  safety  or 
even  tolerated  in  the  vicinity. 

It  was  late  in  the  afternoon  before  a  satisfactory 
conclusion  was  come  to,  but  Assor  did  at  length  get 
an  audience  of  the  Kaid,  and  again  we  were  made 
welcome. 

We  were  now  permitted  to  leave  our  vermin-infested 
room  and  cainp  in  an  olive  grove  a  couple  of  hundred 
yards  down  the  stream.  Our  hopes  brightened  further 
when,  later  on,  the  Kaid — El  Taiby  by  name — came  to 
visit  us,  and  showed  a  physiognomy  by  no  means  repel- 
lent, and  suggesting  some  force  of  character.  Nothing 
could  have  been  more  promising  than  his  assurances, 
and  on  his  leaving  we  at  once  set  about  drawing  up 
our  programme  of  excursions,  with  a  due  regard  to 
the  claims  of  geography,  geology,  botany,  and  mouflon- 
hunting.  The  Kaid  had  said  we  might  go  wherever  we 
liked,  but  in  Morocco  bridges  rarely  lead  from  promise 
to  realisation.  For  my  friend  at  least  there  was  to  be  no 
realisation  this  time.      About  midnight,  while  writing 


GIXDAFY.  311 

my  diary,  I  was  suddenly  disturbed  by  O.-B.  coming  to 
me  in  some  excitement  and  evident  pain,  borne,  how- 
ever, witli  the  utmost  stoicism,  to  tell  me  that  he  had 
just  been  stung  by  a  scorpion  while  putting  on  his  pyja- 
mahs.  He  was  still  grabbing  hold  of  the  latter  with 
the  venomous  insect  inside.  We  soon  disposed  of  the 
scorpion,  and  proceeded  at  once  to  apply  undiluted 
can  de  luce  to  the  spot  on  C.-B.'s  thigh  which  marked 
the  sting.  So  copious  was  the  application  that  several 
inches  of  skin  peeled  off.  To  further  counteract  the 
poison,  from  which  fatal  effects  were  not  unknown,  I 
thoroughly  dosed  the  sufllerer  with  brandy,  of  which 
we  happened  to  have  a  single  bottle,  with  the  happy 
result  that  he  soon  became  quite  talkative  and  jocular 
over  his  really  painful  wound.  Although  no  dangerous 
results  followed,  C.-B.  was  hors  dc  comhat  for  the  next 
fortnight,  than  which  nothing  could  have  been  more 
annoying  to  his  ardent  temperament  and  his  eagerness 
to  make  the  most  of  the  opportunities  aflbrded  to  us. 

Next  day,  on  my  trying  to  take  advantage  of  the 
leave  given  us  to  go  wherever  we  liked,  the  old  troubles 
began.  A  score  of  obstacles  were  at  once  thrown  in 
my  way.  No  guide  or  escort  was  ready,  and  the  Kaid 
was  declared  to  be  asleep  and  could  not  be  disturbed. 
I  went  off  a  short  walk  by  myself,  and  this  led  to  a 
display  of  the  utmost  excitement  and  the  most  ener- 
getic protests.  Hour  after  hour  went  past,  and  then  it 
became  too  late  to  do  what  we  proposed. 

Matters  seemed  to  improve  in  the  afternoon,  for  the 
Kaid,  nettled  at  hearing  so  much  of  the  magnificence 


312  MOROCCO. 

of  El  Glauwi,  sought  to  throw  him  into  tlie  shade  with 
the  vulgar  display  of  the  parvenu  he  in  truth  was. 
He  sent  for  our  inspection  some  of  the  most  beauti- 
fully worked  daggers  with  gold  and  silver  sheaths  that 
we  ever  saw  in  Morocco.  Afterwards  he  came  himself 
with  quite  a  bundle  of  huge  coarsely  made  women's 
jewellery  in  gold  and  silver.  The  gold  and  the  silver 
were  the  proceeds  of  the  spoliation  of  the  valley  by 
the  late  Kaid  when  by  power  of  arms  he  reduced  all 
the  petty  Sheiks  and  transformed  himself  into  their 
paramount  lord.  He  had  just  succeeded  in  establish- 
ing his  position,  after  several  years'  struggle  against  the 
combined  forces  of  all  the  neighbouring  governors,  when 
he  had  to  succumb  to  the  authority  of  the  Sultan. 

To  ensure  that  his  daggers  and  jewellery  should  not 
cost  anything,  the  Kaid's  father  had  employed  a  Jew  of 
Amsiuiz  to  work  on  them  for  over  two  years,  then  paid 
him  the  stipulated  amount  and  sent  him  away  rejoicing, 
immediately  after,  by  order  of  his  employer,  to  be  mur- 
dered and  robbed  as  he  passed  through  the  gorge  of  the 
Nyfis.  For  our  inspection  Taiby  also  sent  his  horse 
trappings,  which  undoubtedly  were  extremely  valuable 
and  gorgeous.  There  were  three  sets  of  bridles  and 
saddles  one  mass  of  gold  and  silk.  We  calculated 
that  each  would  cost  from  ;^I50  to  ^200 — that  is  to 
say,  if  they  had  been  paid  for,  but  the  gold  was  the 
hard- won  money  of  the  poor  mountaineers.  As  for  the 
•workmanship,  which  was  of  the  best,  it  had  not  cost 
much  either ;  for  an  Algerian  Moor  famed  for  his  skill 
in  this  class  of  work  was  beguiled  into  the  mountains, 


GIN  DA  FY.  313 

and  there  forcibly  kept  for  twenty  years,  with  no 
better  remuneration  than  his  food  and  clothes.  That 
at  least  was  the  man's  own  story. 

The  Kaid  having,  as  he  thought,  outdone  El  Glauwi 
by  the  magnificence  of  his  vulgar  display,  and  also 
duly  raised  himself  in  our  estimation,  became  somewhat 
mollified'  He  promised  to  let  us  visit  some  reported 
caves  up  the  "Wad  Agandice,  one  of  the  principal  tribu- 
taries of  the  Nyfis,  and  uniting  with  the  main  river  a 
couple  of  miles  below  our  camp. 

True  enough,  in  the  morning  no  obstacle  was  thrown 
in  my  way.  A  couple  of  guides  were  provided  and  off 
I  started  ;  C.-B.  very  much  disgusted  at  being  com- 
pelled to  remain  behind.  The  reported  wonderful 
caves  proved  to  be  an  utter  fraud,  or,  if  they  did  exist, 
they  were  not  shown  to  us.  All  that  we  saw  were 
some  petty  excavations  in  the  face  of  a  clitf,  formed 
by  the  natives  in  search  of  the  iron  ore  which  here 
and  there  occurs  in  small  veins  and  pockets. 

We  had  no  reason,  however,  to  regret  being  led  to 
the  Wad  Agandice  by  false  reports.  Following  the 
course  of  the  stream  to  where  it  seemed  to  disappear 
in  the  precipitous  front  of  Wishdan,  we  turned  a  spur 
of  the  mountain,  and  found  ourselves  at  the  entrance 
of  the  most  magnificent  gorge  or  canon  it  has  ever 
been  my  lot  to  see — such  an  one,  indeed,  as  may  be 
found  in  America,  but  seldom  seen  elsewhere.  Imagine 
a  great  yawning  crack  running  right  across  a  range 
of  mountains.  Picture  yourselves  at  the  bottom.  On 
either  side  you  look  skyward  over  5000  feet  of  beetling 


314  MOROCCO. 

cliffs  and  precipices,  broken  into  by  areas  of  extremely 
steep  slopes  and  deep-cut  crevices,  and  capped  by  fan- 
tastic rocky  peaks  and  turret-like  masses.  Pine-like 
arar  trees  give  a  dark  shaggy  covering  to  the  ravines, 
and  add  picturesqueness  to  the  cliffs  and  frowning 
projections.  Intermingled  are  patches  of  the  brighter 
green  prickly  oak.  For  almost  the  first  time  the 
Atlas  presents  some  of  the  savage  grandeur  and  awe- 
inspiring  effects  one  connects  with  a  mountain  range 
reaching  heights  of  12,000  and  13,000  feet.  Every- 
where before  there  had  been  something  to  disappoint 
us.  Here  it  was  not  so.  There  was  neither  the 
frightful  feeling  of  desolation  and  deatli,  nor  the 
grievous  monotony  of  outline  which  had  so  frequently 
oppressed  us  at  other  places.  The  arar  and  the 
juniper  were  in  unusual  luxuriance,  and  in  keeping 
with  the  rugged  rocks.  The  roar  of  the  turbulent 
boiling  torrent  accorded  well  with  the  feelings  of  awe 
and  wild  exhilai'ation  which  the  scene  evoked,  and  the 
unusually  fine  strip  of  walnut  and  almond,  carob. 
poplar,  and  ash,  which  bordered  its  banks  served  to 
throw  into  relief  the  wilder  aspects  of  the  frowning 
mountain-sides. 

Up  this  yawning  caiion  we  struggled  and  splashed, 
compelled  to  wade  up  the  bed  of  the  river,  stumbling 
unexpectedly  as  we  went  into  deep  pools  or  over 
obstructing  unseen  blocks.  Of  almost  as  much 
interest  as  the  scenic  effects  was  the  insight  into  the 
geological  structure  given  by  this  magnificent  rock 
section. 


GINDAFY.  315 

For  the  first  mile  we  crossed  the  vertical  much- 
smashed  crystalline  limestones  which  form  the  nor- 
thern half  of  Wishdan,  then  with  "^reat  abruptness 
right  across  the  axis  of  the  mountain  the  metamorphic 
area  became  replaced  by  more  massive  beds  of  yellow 
sandstones  and  purple  and  blue  shales  and  grey  masses 
of  limestone.  Between  these  we  detected  an  intruded 
layer  of  diorite,  and  farther  on  a  conformable  bed  of 
basalt  tuff  or  breccia,  evidently  contemporaneous  with 
the  igneous  rocks. 

About  four  miles  from  the  entrance  to  the  gorge 
the  stream  divides,  one  branch  flowing  from  the  east 
and  the  snow-clad  heights  of  the  Tizi-n-Tamjurt  over- 
looking Tifnut,  and  the  other  from  the  south-west 
behind  Wishdan.  Here  the  scenerj'  attained  its  most 
strikingly  varied  aspect  and  grandest  effects  ;  for  from 
a  projecting  mountain-shoulder  we  could  command 
a  view  into  three  great  gorges,  each  of  surpassing  in- 
terest in  its  wild  savagery. 

On  reaching  this  point,  nn-  thoughts  became  divided 
between  the  scene  before  me  and  another  sight  which 
presented  itself  farther  ahead.  The  mountains  which 
closed  in  the  view  in  that  direction  seemed  to  have  a 
low  elevation  as  compared  with  the  main  mountain 
mass  thronti'li  wliich  we  had  ]i:issod  l)y  llie  Agandice 
gorge.  What  if  I  could  reach  the  top  ?  Tifnut  would 
then  be  at  my  feet  on  the  left,  and  Ras  cl  Wad  and 
the  valley  of  the  Sus  on  my  right. 

Our  soldiers,  however,  had  received  orders  to  go  no 
farther  than  the  division  of  the  stream  where  the  Raid's 


3i6  MOROCCO. 

authority  ended  and  the  territory  of  iniiuical  mountain 
tribes  began.  Moors,  however,  I  argued  to  myself, 
would  do  anything  for  money,  so  I  took  the  leading 
soldier  aside  and  tipped  him  the  wink  very  broadly, 
not  to  speak  of  giving  him  a  sight  of  a  massive  coin. 
He  looked  intelligent,  and  the  minute  after,  accom- 
panied only  by  himself  and  Shalum,  I  was  puffing  up 
the  mountain-side.  We  had  not,  however,  got  more 
than  a  thousand  feet  above  the  stream  when  our  guide, 
as  if  all  unconscious  of  what  we  intended  to  do  when 
we  started,  commenced  energetically  protesting  against 
any  attempt  to  go  farther.  "  It  was  against  the 
Kaid's  orders.  We  would  all  be  killed."  Another 
dollar  acted  like  oil  on  the  troubled  waters,  and  again 
I  pushed  on  with  feverish  energy,  hopeful,  yet  fear- 
ful, of  success.  It  was  no  use,  however.  Our  guide 
became  more  and  more  excited  and  noisy.  He  placed 
himself  time  after  time  in  our  way,  and  with  the 
gesture  and  looks  of  a  madman  demanded  that  we 
should  turn  back.  He  did  not  hesitate  to  draw  his 
sword,  nor  to  make  a  show  of  lifting  his  gun  at  us, 
and  otherwise  conducted  himself  with  such  terrible 
earnestness,  that  I  could  not  believe  he  was  acting 
merely  to  extort  more  money  from  us. 

By  dint,  however,  of  maintaining  a  determined  front, 
and  the  timely  doling  out  of  sundry  further  francs,  we 
were  allowed  to  proceed  stage  by  stage.  At  each  new 
effort  we  thought  our  end  would  be  gained,  and  always 
we  were  disappointed.  The  extraordinary  purity  of  the 
atmos2:)here   made  heights   extremely   deceptive,   while 


GIN  DA  FY.  317 

each  ridge  was  attained  only  to  find  another  and 
higher  beyond. 

At  length,  after  a  terrific  scene  of  yelling,  gesticu- 
lation, and  wild  threats,  I  was  reluctantly  compelled  to 
give  in.  We  could  easily  have  forced  our  way  in  spite 
of  the  guide,  but  we  knew  that  such  action  would  utterly 
spoil  any  chance  of  exploring  farther  about  Gindafy. 
Then  the  day  was  on  the  wane,  the  heat  was  terrific, 
and  I  was  exceedingly  ill  from  indigestion,  from  which 
I  had  been  suffering  for  two  or  three  weeks. 

Having  unfortunately  left  my  aneroid  in  camp,  I 
could  only  roughly  estimate  our  height  at  8000  feet, 
and  that  probably  another  300  or  400  feet  remained 
to  be  scaled. 

Crestfallen  and  disappointed,  we  now  turned  camp- 
wards,  and  safely  reached  our  tents  at  nightfall. 

That  was  the  first  and  last  bit  of  exploration  we 
accomplished  from  CJindafy.  The  old  work  of  treachery 
had  commenced.  Tlie  friendly  relations  which  were 
springing  up  between  the  Kaid  and  us  were  soon 
blighted  by  the  evil  machinations  of  our  men,  who, 
ever  fearful  of  that  dreaded  journey  into  Siis  or  worse 
places,  stopped  at  nothing  to  secure  its  defeat. 

We  were  confined  as  prisoners  to  our  tents,  and  on 
no  account  allowed  to  go  outside.  Bluster  and  threats 
were  as  useless  as  expostulations  and  promises.  It 
was  terribly  hard,  however,  to  find  ourselves  in  such  a 
centre  of  exploration  and  bo  compelled  to  leave  it  with 
so  little  done.  But  we  were  enveloped  in  the  unseeii, 
intangible  meshes  of  a  net,  from  which  we  could  do 


3iS  MOROCCO. 

iiutliing  to  free  ourselves.  We  were  avoided  by  the 
inhabitants,  and  had  almost  no  food  sent  to  us.  In 
spite  of  everything,  we  held  out  for  a  couple  of  days, 
in  the  desperate  expectation  that  something  might 
turn  up  ;  but  at  last,  seeing  how  hopeless  the  case 
was,  and  how  increasingly  dangerous  our  position  was 
becoming,  we  reluctantly  made  up  our  minds  to  return 
to  Amsmiz. 

On  the  3rd  of  July  we  left  camp.  A  mile  to  the 
east  the  narrow  valley  suddenly  contracts  into  a  narrow 
gorge  or  glen,  where  the  red  sandstones  end  and  the 
metamorphic  rocks  begin.  The  glen  of  the  Wad  Nyfis, 
unlike  most  of  those  we  had  hitherto  followed  in  the 
mountains,  wound  in  great  curves,  here  expanding 
somewhat,  there  contracting  to  the  merest  gorge,  due 
to  the  presence  of  intercalated  stitfening  masses  of 
greywacke  among  the  friable  clay-slates.  .Many  of 
the  curves  of  the  Nyfis  were  very  picturesque,  with 
their  outer  grand  sweep  of  steep  rocky  mountains,  the 
glistening  semicircle  of  rushing  water  at  their  base, 
and  the  projecting  spur  or  cone  running  into  the  con- 
cavity, crowned  as  usual  by  some  quaint  village,  sur- 
rounded by  its  olive  and  walnut  groves,  its  cultivated 
terraces,  and  tree-shaded  irrigation  channels.  Every 
now  and  then  ravine  openings  gave  us  peeps  into  the 
higher  ranges  beyond. 

An  hour  from  camp  the  Wad  Teguna  joins  the  Wad 
Nyfis,  its  sharp  defile  affording  a  route  leading  down 
the  shoulders  of  the  Tizi-n-Tamjurt  to  Tifnut.  The 
Nyfis  itself,  it  should  be  remarked,  affords  not  only  an 


GIN  DA  FY.  319 

entrance  into  the  valley  of  Gindafy,  but  is  the  chief 
route  by  way  of  Wishdan  to  lias  el  Wad. 

We  were  greatly  delighted  during  our  descent  of 
the  glen  to  find  some  undoubted  remnants  of  lateral 
moraines  at  various  heights  on  the  mountain-sides,  with 
boulders  in  several  instances  unmistakably  striated. 
At  one  or  two  places  also  we  were  so  fortunate  as  to 
discover  some  smoothed  and  polished  rock  surfaces, 
which  had  been  preserved  unaltered  by  a  covering  of 
moraine  debris. 

About  half  way  down  the  glen  we  camped  at  the 
village  of  Tinesk,  on  the  Wad  Ait  llosein,  which  flows 
from  the  north  side  of  Jebel  Tezah. 

Next  day  we  left  the  glen  of  the  Wad  Nyfis  and 
struck  across  the  Tizi-n-Gerimt  at  Amsmiz.  Our 
wonder  was  continually  evoked,  in  crossing  these 
frightfully  desolate  heights,  as  to  where  the  inhabitants 
of  the  numerous  small  hamlets,  which  clung  like  clay- 
mounds  to  the  mountain-sides,  found  subsistence.  Yet 
the  people  seemed  well  off,  and  contrasted  favourably 
with  the  miserable  and  poverty-stricken  looking  Arabs 
of  such  fertile  plains  as  Bled  Hummel. 

At  mid-day  we  re-entered  Amsmiz,  and  resumed  our 
former  flea  and  bug  infested  quarters. 


(     3-0     ) 


CHAPTER  XXII. 

MA  ROSS  A  AND  THE  ASIF  EL  MEL. 

From  the  Tizi  Nemiri  and  the  valley  of  Gindafy  my 
attention  had  been  attracted  by  a  snow-streaked  peak 
at  the  head  of  the  Wad  Nyfis,  which  rose  conspicuously 
far  above  the  neic^hbourinof  heio-hts. 

A  great  desire  to  visit  and  ascend  this  mountain 
had  taken  possession  of  me,  and  on  my  return  to 
Amsmiz,  I  determined  to  attempt  the  adventure. 

By  dint  of  inquiry,  I  discovered  that  there  were 
two  routes — one  a  roundabout,  by  way  of  the  Asif  el 
Mel  and  Marossa,  the  other  a  direct  one  across  the 
mountains.  I  resolved  to  take  the  former,  to  enable 
me  to  throw  the  Kalifa  off  the  scent  by  pretending  that 
I  only  wanted  to  visit  the  petty  province  of  Marossa. 

In  order  not  to  be  thwarted  in  my  enterprise  by 
my  men,  I  resolved  only  to  take  three.  One.  of  course, 
was  the  ever-willing  and  faithful  Shalum,  the  second 
Zemrani,  on  whom  I  could  depend  fairly  well,  and 
the  third  Abdarachman — the  beau  ideal  of  the  in- 
sinuating and  treacherous  Moor,  a  perfect  IMoorish 
lago.  This  last  we  took  with  us  as  interpreter. 
He  had  picked  up  a  strange   medley  of  frightful  oaths 


MAROSSA  AND  THE  ASIF  EL  MEL.  321 

and  cant  pljrases  from  English  and  Spanish  sailors 
while  working  as  a  Mogador  dock-labourer.  These 
fragments  of  speech  he  employed  in  such  an  unusual 
fashion  that  frequently  we  could  not  help  laughing, 
even  when  his  language  was  of  the  lowest,  it  being 
clear  that  he  had  rarely  any  idea  what  it  meant.  He 
knew,  however,  a  few  common  sentences  fairly  well, 
and  with  these  and  what  I  myself  knew  of  Arabic, 
we  contrived  to  get  along  somehow.  That  he  would 
do  his  best  to  have  us  stopped  before  getting  far  into 
the  mountains  I  felt  quite  certain  ;  but  he  would  be 
unsupported,  except  by  the  soldier,  and  by  dint  of 
careful  watching  we  hoped  to  neutralise  his  evil  in- 
fluence. Assor  and  the  rest  of  the  men  were  left 
behind  with  C.-B.,  who  still  was  unfit  for  much 
travelling — a  state  of  things  as  much  due  to  the  very 
drastic  character  of  the  cure  as  to  the  sting  of  the 
scorpion. 

It  was  my  policy  to  take  both  my  men  and  the 
natives  by  surprise.  I  therefore  struck  while  it  was 
hot,  and  before  any  one  had  time  fur  reflection. 

The  Kalifa  made  no  objection  to  supply  us  with  a 
guide  to  the  comparatively  safe  district  of  Marossa, 
though  he  ordered  the  soldier  who  was  to  act  in  that 
capacity  not  on  any  account  to  allow  us  to  go  farther, 
or  to  cross  the  mountains. 

On  the  6th  July,  the  second  day  after  our  arrival 
from  Gindafy,  we  left  Amsmiz.  For  some  twelve 
miles  we  travelled  rapidly  west,  skirting  the  base  of 
the  abruptly  rising  outer  heights,  most  prominent  and 

X 


322  MOROCCO. 

iiniisuc'illy  picture.s(]ne  ainoiiLf  ^vllic•ll  w;is  the  scaured 
and  rugged  limestone  peak  of  Jcbel  Tisgln,  rising  to 
an  estimated  lieiglit  of"  nearly  8000  feet. 

On  our  riglit  spread  northwards  the  Plain  of 
Morocco  in  its  yellow  garb.  Shortly  after  our  start 
we  crossed  the  Wad  Tinirt,  and  some  miles  farther 
ahead  the  Wad  Ait  Bur,  both  refreshingly  bordered 
with  olive  groves  and  green  fields,  thanks  to  their 
irrigating  waters. 

In  somewhat  more  than  throe  hours  we  reached  the 
Asif  el  Mel,  a  mountain  stream  of  no  great  dimensions 
in  the  summer,  but  which  later  on  becomes  a  raging 
impassable  torrent,  as  the  depth  and  character  of  the 
channel  sufficiently  showed. 

At  this  ]3oint  we  turned  sharply  south  into  the 
mountains  by  way  of  the  glen  of  the  Asif  el  Mel. 
The  scenery  along  our  route  calls  for  no  detailed 
description.  The  glen  winds  in  many  sharp  short 
curves,  with  slopes  comparatively  smooth  and  even, 
rising  to  a  height  of  two  to  three  thousand  feet  over- 
head. The  formations  are  clay-slates  with  a  capping 
of  cretaceous  rocks,  the  escarped  faces  of  which  help 
to  break  the  monotony  of  the  view. 

Midway  up  the  glen  we  jiassed  the  village  of 
Albedur,  and  shortly  after  mid-day  a  second,  called 
Tiginsdel,  at  the  commencement  of  the  tiny  Kaidship 
of  Marossa. 

At  1.30  we  reached  the  head  of  the  glen  of  the 
Asif  el  J\[el,  and  the  residence  of  the  Kaid.  We  found 
the  Kaid  and  his  people  up  in  arms.      All  the  inhabi- 


MAROSSA   AND  Till'   ASH-   liL  MHL. 


Z^i 


tants  of  the  i^'lens  beyond  were  at  war  wilh  liiui,  and 
only  a  sliort  time  before  liad  burned  liis  house  to  the 
ground  and  carried  off  nearly  everything  lie  possessed. 
Naturally  he  was  by  no  means  pleased  to  see  us,  as 
only  adding  to  his  responsibilities.  He  would  not 
hear  of  our  pitching  my  tent  outside,  as  he  was  in  daily 
expectation  of  further  attacks.  With  some  difliculty 
a  room  was  found  for  me — alive  with  vermin,  as  usual 
— and  there  I  took  up  my  quarters. 

At  ]\Iarossa  the  Atlas  springs  up  very  abruptly  from 
the  5000  feet  of  its  lower  ranges  to  more  than  double 
that  height,  or  from  io,000  to  ll,ooo  feet.  At  the 
same  place  the  glen  of  the  Asif  el  Mel  divides  into  three 
profound  gorges — those  of  the  Wad  Ait  Gair  running 
south-west,  and  of  the  Wad  Amsmctirt,  to  the  south, 
cutting  deep  into  the  heart  of  the  range.  The  third, 
or  defile  of  the  Wad  Erght,  is  of  less  imposing  depth, 
and  runs  east  along  the  line  of  junction  of  the  upper 
and  lower  heights.  Between  the  Wads  Erght  and 
Arasmetirt  lies  the  extremely  precipitous  and  con- 
spicuous mountain  of  Wirzan.  The  cretaceous  rocks 
attain  a  development  of  some  2000  to  3000  feet  at 
Marossa,  where  they  end  abruptly  against  the  main 
axis,  a  great  fault  marking  their  junction  with  the 
nietamorphic  strata.  Though  almost  horizontal  to 
within  a  hundred  yards  of  this  fault,  the  sandstones 
and  limestones  are  there  tilted  and  crumpled  in  the 
most  remarkable  manner.  This  interesting  fault  runs 
in  an  almost  straight  line  along  the  base  of  the  main 
chain  to  the  division  of  the  Wad  Amsmiz. 


324  MOROCCO. 

That  night  at  Marossa  was  one  of  the  most  uncom- 
fortable I  had  experienced  in  INforocco.  Foreseeing 
that  it  would  be  one  of  wrestling,  I  took  such  pre- 
cautions as  I  could  to  improve  my  situation,  I  had 
happily  provided  myself  with  some  insect-powder,  and 
this  I  liberally  distributed  over  the  cork  mattress  and 
rug  which  formed  my  bed.  Then  I  thoroughly  dusted 
my  sleeping  suit  inside  and  out,  besides  carefully  tuck- 
ing my  pyjamahs  into  my  socks.  Thereafter  I  drew 
forth  a  huge  cotton  bag,  specially  carried  for  such 
occasions,  and  put  myself  inside,  tying  it  well  round 
my  neck.  Thus  enveloped,  I  smiled  as  I  thought  how 
thoroughly  I  had  outwitted  the  enemy,  and  in  hopeful 
mood  lay  down.  Soon  I  closed  my  eyes  and — and  did 
not  fall  asleep.  The  heat  in  my  unventilated  bag  was 
excessive,  and  I  speedily  streamed  with  perspiration. 
Mosquitoes  began  buzzing  outrageously  about  my  ears, 
and  what  with  their  sharp  itching  stings  and  my  in- 
ability to  slaughter  one,  or  in  any  way  to  let  off  my 
wrath,  I  was  by  and  by  reduced  to  a  state  of  madness. 
I  am  certain,  too,  that  one  or  two  rats,  discovering  my 
helpless  condition,  enjoyed  the  exciting  amusement  of 
scuttling  across  me.  How  I  tossed,  and  groaned,  and 
sighed,  and  cursed  (as  far  as  my  principles  would 
permit)  !  At  length,  drenched  and  dripping,  itching 
all  over  my  face  and  neck,  and  "  frenetic  to  be  free," 
I  burst  my  bonds,  and  tearing  that  delusive  bag  open, 
struck  out  wildly  in  the  darkness  of  night.  It  was 
undoubtedly  an  immense  temporary  relief  to  let  off 
my  passion   in   action,  no   matter  how  inane,  but  the 


MAROSSA   AND  THE  ASIF  EL  MEL.  325 

ruLbing  of  afflicted  parts  only  served  to  add  to  the 
irritation.  Of  course,  a  perfect  battalion  of  lleas  took 
advantage  of  the  break  in  my  defences  to  precipitate 
themselves  inside  the  bag,  and  then  it  was  all  up  with 
me.  The  morning  found  me  limp,  bedraggled  and 
dishevelled,  feverish  and  irritable.  It  required  all  the 
soothing  virtues  of  deep  potations  of  tea  to  bring  me 
back  to  my  normal  condition. 

The  7th  being  Saturday,  or  the  Jews'  Sunday, 
Shalum  would  on  no  account  ruin  his  character  by 
travelling,  though  addicted  to  breaking  nearly  all  the 
other  commandments.  We  could  not,  of  course,  travel 
without  him,  and  were  perforce  compelled  to  stay  at 
Marossa. 

Lured  by  the  report  that  caves  of  the  Rum  were 
on  the  other  side  of  the  glen,  we  went  thither ;  but 
as  at  Agandice,  found  them  to  be  a  fraud.  ]\Iore 
interesting,  however,  were  the  ruins  of  some  singular 
massive  walls,  thirty  yards  in  diameter,  which  we  dis- 
covered encircling  an  isolated  hill.  These  walls  were 
three  feet  thick,  and  wi'll  ])uilt  with  stone  and  lime. 
They  may  possibly  have  been  merely  fortifications,  but 
that  I  think  doubtful. 

With  the  exception  of  a  walk  to  the  mouth  of  the 
AVad  Amsmetirt  gorge,  the  Kaid  would  on  no  account 
allow  us  to  explore  in  his  neighbourhood. 

Next  morning  we  ostensibly  commenced  our  return 
to  Amsmiz  by  way  of  the  mountains.  It  was  under- 
stood we  were  to  stop  at  a  place  called  lOrduz,  which 
I  had  contrived  to  discover  lay  on  the  way  to  Ogdimt, 


326  MOROCCO. 

as  well  as  to  Amsiniz.  Our  guide,  quite  unsuspicious 
of  my  intentions,  made  no  trouble  a})out  varying  our 
return  route.  Travelling  east,  we  ascended  the  glen 
of  the  Wad  Erght,  which  runs  along  the  line  of  fault, 
and  junction  of  the  cretaceous  and  metamorphic  series. 
The  road  was  rather  nasty  at  places.  Abdarachman's 
mule  coming  against  a  projecting  rock  with  its  pack, 
was  precipitated  over  a  low  cliff,  but,  strange  to  relate, 
landed  on  its  feet. 

Half  way  up  the  glen  we  crossed  a  terminal  moraine 
formed  by  a  glacier  descending  from  the  heights  of 
Wirzan.  The  moraine  was  full  of  great  polished  sub- 
angular  blocks  in  a  matrix  of  finer  material.  Some  of 
these  blocks  had  been  weathered  out,  and  now  crowned 
short  pillars  of  the  matrix,  presenting  the  appearance 
of  gigantic  mushi'ooms. 

In  about  two  hours  we  reached  the  top  of  the  glen, 
and  found  immediately  beyond  us  another  glen  running 
at  rio^ht  angrles  to  our  route. 

Still  following  the  base  of  the  upper  range  and  the 
line  of  fault,  we  reached  about  lo  a.m.  the  wonderfully 
fertile  valley  of  the  Wad  Erduz,  and  bivouacked  in  a 
grove  of  the  finest  walnuts  we  had  seen  in  the  Atlas. 
The  rest  of  the  day  was  devoted  to  botanising,  with 
excessively  poor  results. 

We  here  noticed  somewomen  watering  plots  of  ground, 
to  which  water  could  not  be  conveyed  by  channels. 

My  fears  that  Abdarachman  might  yet  succeed  in 
thwarting  my  plans  were  considerably  intensified  on 
findinir  him  in  earnest  talk  with  the  soldier-sruide  and 


MAROSSA  AND  THE  A  SIP  EL  MEL.  327 

the  Slunk  of  tlio  village.  That  more  villainy  was  in 
the  wind  was  soon  made  certain  by  Shaluni  coming  to 
me  and  by  words  and  signs  letting  me  know  that 
Abdarachman  was  np  to  some  mischief  or  other.  All 
day  long  he  had  acted  as  if  lie  could  not  translate  into 
English  anything  said  to  me,  and  otherwise  made  him- 
self as  artificially  dull  and  stupid  as  possible.  None 
the  less  ho  understood  very  well  the  blowing-up  I  gave 
liini  and  my  angry  tones  and  gestures. 

That  evening  I  sat  solitarily,  wondering  whether  I 
should  succeed  on  the  morrow  in  my  attempt.  I 
bitterly  contrasted  in  my  mind  the  hopefulness  and 
trust  with  which  I  had  faced  infinitely  greater  trials 
and  dangers  in  the  wildest  depths  of  Central  Africa 
with  the  feelings  I  now  experienced  at  finding  myselt 
so  helpless  before  the  underhand  ti'eachery  of  one  or 
two  Moorish  servants. 

JNFy  thoughts  kept  me  long  awake  as  I  lay  wrapped 
in  my  rug  on  the  hard  ground,  canopied  by  a  gigantic 
overarching  walnut-tree,  my  eyes  sometimes  attracted 
to  the  stars  seen  twinkling  through  the  branches,  more 
often  to  the  fire-lit  face  of  Al)daracliman,  for  wdiom  I 
wished  many  unutterable  things.  It  is  impossible, 
however,  to  travel  all  day  and  remain  awake  all  night, 
especially  in  a  l)racing  mountain  atmosphere.  In  time 
the  not  unpleasant  rush  of  the  stream  at  our  feet,  the 
low  tones  of  my  men's  voices,  and  the  soothing  sound 
of  rustling  leaves  sent  me  into  oblivion.  Thither 
Abdarachman  could  not  come  to  disturl)  me,  nor  did  the 
hard  ground  make  my  sleep  less  sound  or  enjoyable. 


(     328     ) 


CHAPTER  XXIII. 

THE  ASCENT  OF  JEBEL  OGDIMT. 

At  daybreak  I  awoke  with  dew-waslied  face,  refreshed 
and  braced  up  to  encounter,  with  renewed  courage,  the 
difficult!  3S  and  troubles  before  me. 

A  cup  of  tea  and  a  couple  of  eggs  disposed  of,  I 
asked  Shalum  the  way  to  Ogdimt.  This  was  my  first 
intimation  of  the  goal  I  had  in  view,  and  every  one 
stood  speechless,  though  Shalum  instinctively  pointed 
out  the  road.  The  attractive  expression  disappeared 
from  Abdarachman's  face,  and  rage  and  fright  expressed 
themselves  in  his  chameleon  eyes.  Our  soldier-guide 
in  time  found  voice,  and  protested  with  voluble  energy 
against  any  attempt  to  proceed  farther.  He  quoted 
the  governor's  orders.  In  my  calmest  but  most  deter- 
mined manner  I  told  him  that  the  governor's  orders 
were  matters  of  the  utmost  indifference  to  me,  that  he 
himself  could  go  back  if  he  pleased,  but  that  to  Ogdimt 
I  would  go.  The  soldier,  however,  dared  not  leave  me. 
He  wept,  implored,  cursed,  and  generally  comported 
himself  like  a  madman,  but  for  sole  answer  I  mounted 
my  mule  and  moved  Ogdimt-wards. 

^J'hat  the  enterprise  was  a  dangerous  one  was  evident 


THE  ASCENT  OF  JEDEL  OGDIMT.  329 

from  the  blank  faces  of  Slialum  and  Zenirani,  who 
showed  no  great  alacrity  in  fcjllowint^'  me.  For  a  time 
the  guide  kept  pace  with  me,  laying  hold  of  my  clotlies, 
entreating,  even  threatening  me,  but  I  was  immovable. 
Finding  all  his  arts  in  vain,  he  was  fain  to  mount  his 
donkey,  never  ceasing  for  over  an  liour  to  curse  his 
fate,  and  calling  upon  Allah,  the  I^rophet,  and  the 
saints  to  stop  me.  Abdarachman  with  more  malice 
was  overheard  trying  to  comfort  him  by  the  expression 
of  a  hope  that  this  time  I  would  be  killed,  and  release 
them  from  further  service  with  such  a  cursed  infidel. 
That,  however,  was  poor  comfort  to  the  soldier,  how- 
ever innocent  he  might  be,  for  my  death  would  mean 
his  incarceration  for  life  in  a  horrible  dungeon. 

That  there  was  some  little  danger  in  penetrating 
to  Ogdimt,  however,  was  made  apparent  when  even 
Shalum  and  Zemrani,  on  our  arrival  at  the  foot  of  the 
main  axis,  refused  to  budge  another  step  till  I  loaded 
my  rifle,  guns,  and  revolver,  and  held  them  ready  for 
action.  Thus  prepared  for  whatever  might  happen,  we 
set  ourselves  to  scale  the  excessively  steep  crest  of  the 
central  mass  of  the  range,  which  so  fir  we  had  only 
skirted. 

We  had  not  ascended  more  than  a  thousand  feet 
above  the  mountain  step  or  terrace  of  Erduz,  when  we 
found  ourselves  enveloped  in  a  dense  mist.  Our  men 
ceased  their  talk,  and  even  the  soldier  sank  into  silence, 
as  we  slowly  zigzagged  upward  and  penetrated  deeper 
and  deeper  into  the  all-enveloping  mist,  which  might 
also  prove  to  them  their  shroud  and  winding-sheet.   For 


330 


MOROCCO. 


over  an  hour  and  ti  halt'  more  we  continued  the  ascent, 
seeing  almost  nothing  but  one  another  appearing  and 
disappearing  in  tlio  mist.  At  the  end  of  that  time, 
however,  we  were  delighted  to  note  a  gradual  lighting 
np  of  our  surroundings,  and  in  half  an  hour  we  emerged 
rom  the  cloud  zone  and  found  an  intensely  clear  blue 
sky  overhead,  and  underneath  one  of  the  most  weirdly 
beautiful  and  striking  spectacles  it  is  possible  to  imagine. 


THR   CLOUD   SCENE,    TIZI    NSLIT. 


The  monotonous  grey  mist  tlirough  which  we  had 
passed  stretched  out  before  us  in  an  illimitable  ghostly 
sea  01  tumbling  billows,  breaking  in  snow-white  foam. 
From  this  fleecy  expanse  or  dazzling  white  the  main 
axis  of  the  Atlas  rose  sharply  defined,  its  frowning 
mass  in  marked  contrast  to  the  sea  of  clouds,  thougli 
patches  and   streaks  of  snow  still   defied  the   summer 


run  ASCENT  OF  JRBEL  OGDIMT.  331 

sun.  From  tlio  ccTitral  ridge  a  number  of  spurs  pro- 
jected towards  the  north,  forming  jutting  headlands 
and  promontories,  between  which  the  snowy  clouds 
penetrated  like  so  many  arms  of  the  sea.  That  nothing 
should  be  wanting  to  complete  tlie  illusion,  the  cloud 
billows  driven  before  a  morning  breeze  dashed  them- 
selves against  the  apparent  precipitous  rocky  coast-line, 
and  were  transformed  into  the  most  perfect  resemblance 
of  spray  and  foam  as  they  crept  up  the  dark  mountain 
sides.  The  whole  scene  was  made  more  impressive, 
more  spectral,  by  the  preternatural  silence  which  pre- 
vailed. Such  a  combination  of  the  weird.,  the  beautiful', 
and  the  grand  I  have  never  elsewhere  seen. 

Gradually,  as  I  stood  giving  myself  np  to  the  in- 
iluence  of  the  marvellous  spectacle,  the  fog  began  to 
lift,  though  almost  imperceptibly,  dissipated  by  the 
morning  breeze  and  the  ever-increasing  heat  of  the 
sun.  One  or  two  of  the  more  prominent  elevations  of 
the  lower  mountain  terraces  peeped  out  from  the 
encircling  cloud  wreaths,  and  sliowed  themselves  like 
black  rocks  and  islands,  round  which  the  ghostly  bil- 
lows dashed  and  foamed,  though  to  the  ear  came  neither 
roar  nor  murmur. 

I  could  have  dearly  wished  to  sit  and  watch  the 
slowly  changing  scene,  and  the  disrobing  of  all  tiio 
features  of  the  hidden  landscape  below  ;  but  we  had 
still  far  to  go,  and  dangers  and  difficulties  lay  in  our 
way,  so,  after  hurriedly  photographing  the  scene  in  the 
hope  of  fixing  on  paper  some  of  its  fascinating  aspects, 
I  resumed  my  tramp. 


332  MOROCCO. 

Soon  we  reached  the  Tizi  Nslit,  the  pass  which  leads 
over  tlie  Atlas  range  to  the  district  of  Ogdiint.  The 
landscape  panorama  which  now  held  us  enthralled  was 
of  a  very  different  character  from  the  one  we  had  just 
turned  from.  To  the  south  and  south-west  no  clouds 
threw  the  glamour  of  another  world  over  a  magnificent 
assemblage  of  sharp,  barren  mountain  ridges,  profound 
gorges,  and  glens,  all  grouped  round  one  grand  central 
mass,  which,  snow-streaked  and  commanding,  reared  its 
massive  head  far  above  the  surrounding  mountains. 
That  central  mass  was  the  mountain  of  Ogdimt,  my 
immediate  goal. 

;My  men  made  one  more  attempt  to  turn  me  back  at 
this  point  with  highly  coloured  representations  of  the 
wildness  of  the  independent  Berbers  who  occupied 
Ogdimt.  Here  they  declared  the  long  cuttlefish  arms 
of  the  Government  could  not  reach,  and  nothing  would 
give  the  mountaineers  more  pleasure  than  cutting  the 
throat  of  one  who  to  them  would  appear  not  only  as 
an  infidel  but  as  a  spy. 

Arcfuments  and  warning's  like  these  had  often  been 
dunned  in  my  ears,  but,  as  before,  I  remained  deaf, 
and  set  my  face  towards  the  mountain.  From  the 
pass  of  Nslit  a  gradually  deepening  glen  led  downward 
to  the  inhabited  zone  and  the  head-waters  of  the  Wad 
Nyfis.  Besides  its  canon-like  depth  and  narrowness, 
and  its  grim  and  enclosing  mountain  walls,  the 
glen  presented  no  feature  specially  worthy  of  note, 
though  there  were  places  where  we  had  some  un- 
comfortable   half   minutes    in   skirting    precipices   and 


THE  ASCENT  OF  JEDEL  OGDIMT.  333 

ascending  or  descending  places  verging  on  the  im- 
passable. 

After  a  time  we  crossed  a  wall-like  ridL'^e,  and 
entered  a  glen  running  parallel  to  that  of  the  Tizi 
Nslit.  It  was  with  no  small  difficulty  that  we  reached 
the  bed  of  this  glen,  but  thereafter  our  way  was  com- 
paratively easy  as  we  rode  down  among  cultivated 
terraces  and  through  groves  of  walnuts  and  almonds, 
getting  peeps  here  and  there  of  oddly  perched  Berber 
villages,  stuck  on  the  steep  mountain-sides  like  swallows' 
nests  against  a  weathered  and  ruined  wall. 

My  men  wanted  me  to  stop  at  the  first  village  we 
came  to,  but  that  did  not  suit  my  purpose,  and  I 
doggedly  held  on  my  way,  though  not  without  fear 
that  the  villagers  might  turn  us  back  or  end  our 
farther  progress  in  an  even  more  unpleasant  fashion. 
No  such  disagreeable  incident  occurred,  however, 
though  it  was  evident  from  the  demeanour  of  the 
natives  that  they  were  extremely  suspicious  of  our  in- 
tentions, and  were  not  quite  sure  how  to  receive  the 
first  Christian  who  had  ever  ventured  into  their  moun- 
tain fastnesses.  Some  time  after  mid-day  we  reached 
the  noisy  stream  of  the  Wad  Nyfis,  and  on  its  banks 
I  camped  under  shady  walnut-trees  and  hemmed  in 
by  enormous  precipices.  Matters  looked  far  from 
promising.  Nobody  came  to  speak  to  us  except 
one  old  man,  who  was  sent  to  inquire  our  objects  in 
venturing  into  those  parts,  and  generally  to  take  note 
of  us  and  our  doings.  From  among  the  rocks  and 
trees,  however,  armed   men   could  be  seen  peering  out, 


334  MOROCCO. 

keeping  u  close  watch  upon  us,  uud  making  us  feel 
distinctly  uncomfortable  as  we  tLouglit  of  possible 
"  pot  shots."  My  men  thought  it  more  than  uncom- 
fortable— dangerous,  in  fact — as  people  from  the  plain 
were  looked  upon  in  the  light  of  enemies  by  the  moun- 
taineers. It  was  therefore  more  than  the  cold  breeze 
from  the  snow-streaked  mountains  which  caused  them 
to  sit  doubled  up,  the  picture  of  wretchedness,  awaiting 
what  Allah  might  send,  and  no  doubt  wondering  what 
heinous  sins  they  had  committed  that  He  had  doomed 
them  to  be  dragged  at  the  heels  of  a  hated  Christian 
into  these  wild  and  dangerous  parts.  Shaluin  was  the 
least  concerned  of  the  party,  accustomed  as  he  was,  in 
his  character  of  Jewish  trader,  to  venture  with  im- 
punity into  the  worst  parts  of  the  Atlas. 

If  we  had  had  something  to  eat  we  might  have 
taken  a  more  cheerful  view  of  the  situation,  but  nothing 
was  forthcoming,  and  an  empty  stomach  does  not  dis- 
pose one  to  take  a  sanguine  view  of  things.  Happily 
towards  evening  matters  somewhat  improved.  One 
or  two  villagers  came  into  our  camp,  and  these  were 
cajoled  and  bribed  into  bringing  us  some  eggs,  rancid 
butter,  barley-meal  scones,  and  walnuts,  on  which  we 
made  a  sparing  meal. 

For  the  first  time  since  we  left  Mogador,  we  were 
able  to  indulge  in  the  luxury  of  a  splendid  camp-fire. 
So  far  charcoal  fires,  which  required  the  aid  of  bellows, 
had  not  realised  our  ideal  of  that  important  adjunct  of 
camp  life. 

As  the  night  passed  on  I  withdrew  from  the  cheerful 


THE  ASCF.NT  OF  JUnEL  OGDIMT.  335 

blaze,  and  in  tin'  |ii'ivacy  oi'  my  tiny  tent  souglit  to 
solve  the  problem  how  1  was  to  reach  the  top  of  that 
mountain  mass  which  lay  so  tantalisintirly  near  and  yet 
soemed  so  unattainable. 

My  cogitations  broiiglit  nic  no  consolation,  and  I 
could  only  make  myself  cheerful  by  reiterating  to  my- 
self that  "  it  had  to  be  ascended  somehow." 

'J'liat  ''  somehow  "  was  still  undefined  on  turning  out 
of  my  rug — I  cannot  say  my  bed — next  morning.  To 
give  up  the  attempt  was  out  of  the  question,  however. 
I  could  not  consult  with  my  men,  that  would  have 
ensured  failure,  and  with  Shalum,  the  only  one  on 
whom  I  could  at  all  depend,  I  unfortunately  could 
not  hold  converse.  But  there  was  no  time  to  lose,  as 
the  entire  day  would  require  to  be  devoted  to  the  task. 

I  therefore  called  the  old  man  who  had  visited  us 
the  day  previous.  I  explained  to  him  that  I  wanted 
to  collect  some  medicinal  herbs  which  I  had  been  told 
grew  on  the  slopes  of  these  mountains.  To  this  be 
objected  at  once.  No  stranger  was  ever  allowed  to  go 
there,  and  all  the  people  in  the  different  glens  were  at 
constant  feud  and  looking  out  for  whomsoever  they 
could  shoot.  The  sight  of  some  dollars  made  him 
take  a  more  hopeful  view  of  the  situation,  however, 
and,  to  my  delighted  surprise,  he  offered  to  take  me 
to  a  shoulder  of  the  mountain  which  he  pointed  out  to 
me.  That  was  all  I  wanted.  Once  away  from  the 
village,  and  Abdarachman  and  the  soldier  left  behind, 
I  felt  sure  of  attaining  my  object. 

The  barsrain  was  clinched  at  once,  and  takin<jf  with 


336  MOROCCO. 

mo  only  Shalum  and  the  soldier,  I  started  oft"  accom- 
panied by  our  old  Berber  friend  and  a  companion,  an 
addition  I  did  not  so  much  like.  Crossing  the  stream, 
we  at  once  commenced  the  steep  ascent  of  the  sharp 
ridge  which  runs  east  from  the  central  mass  and  divides 
the  upper  course  of  the  Wad  Nyfis.  I  pushed  on 
with  a  certain  feverish  energy,  trying  ray  powers  to 
the  utmost.  To  my  delight,  I  soon  discovered  that 
the  soldier  was  lagging  wearily  behind,  the  result 
largely  of  his  bang-smoking.  With  well-simulated 
commiseration  for  his  weakness,  I  stopped,  and  taking 
my  rifle  from  him,  told  him  he  might  go  back  to  the 
camp.  Suspecting  no  trick,  he  gladly  turned  down 
the  mountain.  1  was  now  free  of  my  chief  danger, 
and  for  the  first  time  assured  of  success.  The  guides 
were  ahead,  and  with  a  look  at  Shalum  and  a  nod  at 
the  peak  overhead,  I  apprised  him  of  my  intention. 
Shalum  smiled  grimly,  and  for  answer  buckled  up  his 
voluminous  clothes  a  little  more,  and  took  the  rifle 
from  me. 

Half-way  up  the  steep  shoulder  of  the  ridge,  the 
view  of  the  end  of  the  Wad  Nyfis  glen  looked  very 
striking.  From  our  camp  the  stream  divided  and 
spread  itself  out  in  a  semicircle  of  radiating  torrents, 
cut  off"  from  each  other  by  narrow  ridges  which* 
broadened  and  heightened  till  merged  in  the  semicircle 
of  snow-streaked  mountains  which  circumscribed  the 
view  and  formed  the  watershed.  So  complete  was  the 
semicircle,  so  regular  the  radiation  of  the  stream  and 
ridges  from  a  small  central  hill,  that  I  was  irresistibly  set 


THE  ASCENT  OF  JEBEL  OGDIMT.  337 

thinkinf^  of  a  cyclopean  wheel,  of  whicli  tlic  liill  was  tho 
hul),  ami  tho  ridges  the  giant  spokes  running  into  the 
great  rim.  All  tho  streams  were  sharply  marked  out 
by  fringing  walnut  trees  and  green  terraces,  above  or 
among  which  stood  picturesquely  situated  villages,  the 
whole  in  refreshing  contrast  to  the  barren  grey  ridges 
on  which  hardly  any  vegetation  found  a  footing  or  hid 
the  jagged  metaraorphic  rocks  and  their  weathered 
debris. 

In  two  hours  we  ascended  4000  feet,  and  had 
attained  an  elevation  of  about  9000.  We  were  here 
on  tho  crest  of  the  sharp  ridge,  and  from  it  I  was 
delighted  to  get  a  good  view  of  the  Sus  Valley  and  the 
glen  of  tho  Wad  Nyfis,  from  which  I  had  been  driven 
a  week  before  by  the  Kaid  or  governor  of  the  district. 
I  could  afford  to  laugh  at  him  now.  At  this  point  our 
guides  sat  down  with  the  air  of  men  wdio  had  got  to 
their  farthest  limit  and  meant  it  to  be  mine  also.  To  this 
I  made  no  remonstrance.  Happily  Shalum  was  one  of 
those  men  to  whom  a  wink  and  a  nod  are  sufficient 
to  convey  no  end  of  things,  and  by  that  simple  means 
I  told  him,  "  You  wait  hero  for  a  time  with  these  two 
men,  while  I,  on  pretence  of  collecting  plants  and 
beetles,  make  for  the  peak  ;  "  and  he,  with  his  cunning 
Jewish  eye,  told  mo  to  "leave  it  to  him  and  he  would 
pick  me  up." 

I  would  not,  perhaps,  have  started  oft'  with  such  a 
light  heart  if  I  had  known  how  tlio  pass  over  into  Sus 
was  infested  by  robbers  on  the  outlook  for  chance 
travellers,  as  well  as  by  the  armed  sentinels  who  con- 

Y 


338  MOROCCO. 

tinually  kept  watch  on  tlie  passes  and  glens.  As  long 
as  I  was  in  sight  of  my  guides,  I  was  assiduous  in  my 
naturalising,  but  soon  I  got  an  elevation  between  me 
and  tliem,  and  then  I  literally  took  to  my  heels  and 
ran  along  the  ridge  of  the  grassy  slope  for  quite  half  a 
mile.  No  one  was  yet  in  sight,  but  I  soon  descried 
Shalum  hurriedly  following  up  and  alone. 

I  could  not  learn  from  him  how  he  had  got  away 
from  the  guides,  but  he  made  it  clear  to  me  that  there 
was  still  risk  of  being  stopped  besides  danger  to  our 
lives,  and  he  hurried  me  on  till  it  seemed  as  if  we  were 
running  a  race.  Without  breaking  into  a  run,  we 
tramped  along  at  our  utmost  walking  rate,  determined 
that  we  would  keep  a  good  distance  between  the  moun- 
taineers and  ourselves. 

As  we  reached  the  pass  which  leads  from  Ogdimt 
to  Sus,  Shalum,  who  was  fully  conversant  with  the 
dangers  of  the  country,  placed  himself  ostentatiously 
at  my  side,  holding  my  express  rifle  ready  for  instant 
use,  while  by  voice  and  gesture  he  hounded  me  to 
greater  exertion.  I  laughed  at  the  time  at  his  pre- 
cautions, though  touched  by  his  solicitude  on  my  behalf. 
And  yet  his  presence  and  the  ready  rifle  probably  saved 
my  life,  for  at  that  very  moment,  all  unconscious  to  my- 
self, I  was  under  the  cover  of  the  gun  of  a  mountaineer, 
who,  hidden  behind  a  rock,  watched  my  passing.  In 
spite  of  Shalum's  precaution,  one  of  us  would  probably 
have  dropped  before  the  robber's  fire,  but  our  guides  had 
meanwhile  discovered  our  flight,  and  at  that  moment 
had  raised  a  tremendous  hue  and  cry  behind  us.      We 


THE  ASCENT  OF  JEBEL  OGDIMT.  339 

turned  but  to  see  where  they  were,  and  then  gave 
renewed  speed  to  our  movements — not  so  much  that 
we  were  afraid  of  them  alone,  but  in  case  they  got 
assistance  to  stop  us.  That  this  fear  was  not  without 
grounds  we  soon  discovered  on  looking  round  and  see- 
ing our  pursuers  joined  by  two  other  men,  who  seemed 
to  have  sprung  from  the  earth.  These  were  two 
Ogdimt  robbers,  who  had  been  on  the  point  of  shooting 
us  from  behind  a  rock  near  which  we  had  passed. 

For  a  time  our  way  was  comparatively  easy,  along 
the  crest  of  the  ridge  leading  towards  the  peak,  and 
we  made  splendid  progress.  This,  however,  ended 
abruptly,  and  to  our  dismay  we  found  ourselves  con- 
fronted by  a  jagged  piece  of  crystalline  limestone, 
projecting  like  a  gigantic  saw  from  the  back  of  the 
ridge.  For  a  moment  we  despaired  of  being  able  to 
pass,  but  at  length,  with  some  difficulty,  we  succeeded 
in  getting  over  the  nasty  obstacle. 

We  now  began  to  feel  comparatively  safe,  our  guides 
and  their  friends  having  rather  lost  on  us,  though  they 
never  ceased  to  gesticulate  wildly  and  scream  voci- 
ferously to  us  to  stop  or  come  back.  Still  Shalum, 
who  had  fallen  behind  some  distance,  kept  urging  me 
to  peg  away  ;  and  peg  away  I  did  as  if  for  dear  life, 
though  the  exertion  was  frightful  at  the  elevation  of 
over  10,000  feet  we  had  now  attained.  After  crossing 
the  jagged  crystalline  limestone  barrier,  a  terribly 
steep  part  lay  before  us.  My  legs  were  trembling  with 
the  unusual  exertion,  while  the  rarefied  condition  of  the 
atmosphere  made  breathing  painful.      This  steep  part 


340  MOROCCO. 

over,  we  need  fear  no  opposition,  however,  and  therefore 
I  went  for  it  with  all  the  will  and  energy  I  possessed. 

By  slow  degrees,  and  with  many  short  stops,  this 
step  was  accomplished,  and  I  fell  rather  than  sat  down 
beside  a  patch  of  snow,  of  which  I  eagerly  ate  to 
assuage  my  thirst.  Shortly  after  Shalum  rejoined  me, 
and  later  still  the  guides,  foaming  and  full  of  wrath, 
but,  thanks  to  their  age,  more  exhausted  than  I  Avas. 

What  made  me  feel  rather  uneasy  was  the  dis- 
appearance of  the  two  men  who  had  joined  them  at 
the  pass.  Could  they  have  gone  to  get  reinforce- 
ments ?  and  was  I  going  to  run  into  a  trap  ? 

Meanwhile  my  escort  by  turns  entreated  and  threat- 
ened to  get  us  to  turn  back,  but  seeing  me  determined 
and  implacable,  and  feeling  their  inability  to  stop 
us,  they  yielded  to  the  necessities  of  the  situation 
and  the  seducing  influence  of  a  couple  of  dollars, 
and  gave  up  all  opposition.  Still  I  was  suspicious, 
and  lost  no  time  in  recommencing  the  ascent  of  the 
remaining  and  most  difficult  part,  though  it  seemed  but 
the  work  of  an  hour.  We  had  not  well  set  out,  how- 
ever, before  we  were  confronted  with  the  very  nastiest 
piece  of  rock-climbing  I  had  ever  encountered.  This 
was  another  jagged  outcrop  of  weathered  crystalline 
limestone,  projecting  in  dangerous  teeth,  where  a  fjdl 
of  a  few  feet  would  have  produced  the  most  terrible 
wounds.  To  evade  this  barrier  meant  a  considerable 
descent,  and  I  therefore  tried  to  cross  it,  as  in  the 
other  case  ;  but  after  a  painful  and  perilous  attempt  I 
was   forced  to  give  it  up  on   reaching  an   impassable 


THE  ASCENT  OF  JEDEL  OGDIMT.  341 

overhanging  abyss.  To  return  was  now  nearly  as 
difficult  as  to  go  on,  but  happily,  after  much  loss  of 
time  and  a  dangerous  descent,  I  found  a  middle  path, 
by  which  I  managed  to  scramble  to  the  foot  of  the 
ridge.  T  had  now  to  struggle  over  a  nasty  talus  of 
loose  debris,  lying  at  such  a  high  angle  that  at  each 
step  I  slipped  down  the  hill,  and  more  than  once  I 
thought  I  would  have  gone  to  the  bottom  of  the 
mountain  in  the  midst  of  an  avalanche  of  stones. 

The  limestone  precipices  thus  rounded,  I  had  to 
recommence  the  ascent,  a  task  of  no  small  difficulty  in 
the  loose,  slippery  rubbish.  Moreover,  I  now  felt  the 
result  of  the  race  I  had  run  to  escape  from  my  keepers. 
I  had  overstrained  both  limbs  and  lungs.  This,  com- 
bined with  the  ever-increasing  height,  made  each  step 
a  painful  toil,  so  that  every  few  moments  I  had  to  sit 
down  to  recover  myself. 

All  this  time  I  was  alone,  as  Shalum  and  the  natives 
had  taken  their  own  roads  and  been  lost  sight  of.  After 
a  series  of  determined  spurts,  I  thought  my  task  was 
nearly  accomplished,  wlicti  to  my  dismay  T  found  my- 
self at  the  foot  of  a  new  precipice  i  50  feet  in  height, 
which  not  only  seemed  impregnable,  but  shut  oti*  the 
view  in  the  direction  I  was  chiefly  anxious  to  survey. 
As  I  sat  down  in  disgust  and  disappointment  to 
I'ecover  breath,  my  almost  despairing  gaze  fell  upon  a 
narrow  rift  in  the  rock  which  I  determined  to  try, 
relying  upon  the  sharp  projections  and  the  undiminished 
strength  of  my  arms  to  bring  me  safely  to  the  top. 

The   climb   was   safely  accomplished,  only,  however. 


342  MOROCCO. 

to  find  a  new  disappointment  awaiting  me.  I  had 
struck  tlie  wrong  peak.  Beyond  me  lay  another  and  a 
higher.  Nearly  exhausted  as  I  was,  I  would  fain  have 
given  in.  As  it  was,  I  sat  down  to  consider  whether 
or  not  the  attainment  of  the  other  peak  was  worth  the 
trouble,  and  whether  it  would  not  be  enough  in  the 
interests  of  science  simply  to  estimate  the  remaining 
height.  While  I  carefully  cogitated  these  important 
matters,  Shalum  came  up  with  me,  shortly  after  followed 
by  the  guides  and  three  wicked-looking  tribesmen. 
Shalum  appeared  very  uneasy,  and  warned  me  by  his 
looks  to  be  on  my  guard.  As  if  to  pass  the  time,  I 
looked  at  my  revolver  and  opened  and  shut  the  breech 
of  my  ritle.  At  the  same  time  I  gave  the  chief  a  franc, 
knowing  it  was  best  to  make  matters  go  smoothly 
if  possible,  since  the  sound  of  a  rifle-shot  would  make 
every  man  in  the  radiating  glens  rush  to  arms.  The 
sight  of  our  weapons,  our  air  of  confidence,  and  the 
small  douceur  of  money  did  all  that  was  required,  and 
the  banditti,  for  such  they  were,  left  us,  though  we 
kept  them  under  watch  till  well  away. 

Somewhat  recovered  by  the  rest,  we  now  struggled 
up  the  crowning  peak,  and  exactly  at  mid-day  reached 
the  top.  My  first  care  was  to  throw  myself  down  for 
a  quarter  of  an  hour  to  recover  from  the  terrible  climb, 
or  rather  from  the  earlier  exertions  of  the  ascent. 
Then  I  gathered  myself  together  and  began  leisurely 
to  examine  my  surroundings. 

The  most  varied  and  magnificent  view  presented 
along  the   entire   range   of  the   Atlas    lay   spread    out 


THE  ASCENT  OF  JED  EL  OGDIMT.  343 

before  me.  Immediately  around  the  metamorphic 
rocks  which  run  from  the  central  mass  of  the  range 
were  cut  into  a  wild  series  of  gorges  and  glens,  divided 
by  sharp  mountain  spurs  and  ridges,  here  and  there 
rising  into  snow-streaked  peaks.  Everywhere  was  de- 
solation, barrenness,  and  preternatural  stillness.  Hardly 
a  patch  of  green  gave  variety  to  the  monotonous  drifts  of 
shaly  debris  and  the  jagged  ribs  of  rock  which  protruded 
above  the  surface.  It  was  only  in  the  middle  zone 
that  dark  masses  of  Callitris  and  stunted  trees  of  the 
evergreen  oak  found  a  footing,  while  along  the  bottoms 
of  the  fflens  the  terraces  of  the  mountaineers  added 
refreshing  bits  of  colour.  Numerous  villages  clustered 
against  the  steep  mountain-sides,  and  under  the  blaze 
of  the  African  sun,  and  with  the  proximity  of  walnut 
and  almond  groves,  seemed  almost  desirable  residences. 
From  my  immediate  rugged  surroundings  my  gaze 
naturally  turned  southward  and  roamed  with  delight 
over  the  almost  unknown  Sus  Valley,  which,  seen  from 
my  commanding  elevation,  spread  all  its  physical 
features  in  one  striking  sheet  10,000  feet  below  me. 
From  among  the  massive  ranges  to  the  south-east  the 
Sus  Iliver  could  be  seen  emerging  and  winding  in  a 
quivering  silver  thread  through  the  plain  seawards. 
From  either  side  numerous  streams  showed  themselves 
meandering  to  augment  its  volume,  here  lost  in  dark 
green  patches  which  spoke  of  date  and  olive  groves,  or 
gleaming  in  silvery  reaches  where  they  glided  along  the 
yellow  burned-up  grass  plains.  Curling  smoke  indicated 
the  site   of  towns  and  villages,  and  Shalum,  proud  of 


344  MOROCCO. 

liis  knowledge  of"  tlie  country,  pointed  out  sucli  places 
as  Imineblia,  Talkjunkt,  and  Kas-el-Wad.  It  was  much 
to  have  the  unique  pleasure  of  looking  down  as  on  a 
map  on  all  these  places ;  but  it  was  still  more  to  trace 
the  wall-like  grandeur  of  the  "  Anti- Atlas,"  which  ran 
seaward,  a  southern  bounding  barrier  to  the  great  Sus 
plain.  Hardly  a  prominence  broke  the  almost  even  level 
of  its  summit,  hardly  a  spur  jutted  from  its  stern,  preci- 
pitous sides.  So  it  seemed  at  least,  but  a  haze  hung  round 
its  lower  zones,  and  possibly  hid  some  such  features. 

Turning  to  the  east,  the  glen  of  the  Wad  Nyfis  led 
my  examination  towards  the  narrow  mountain  valley  of 
Gindaf}',  from  which  a  week  before  I  had  been  driven 
back.  It  now  looked  cosy  and  smiling,  cradled  among 
its  circling  mountains.  Northward  lay  only  rugged 
mountain  peaks  and  ranges,  w^ith  no  specially  striking 
feature,  and  bounded  by  a  dense  haze. 

After  allowing  myself  to  revel  in  the  varied  aspects  of 
this  magnificent  panorama  for  some  time,  I  had  to  re- 
call myself  to  the  more  prosaic  duties  demanded  of  me. 
Having  ascertained  to  my  satisfaction  that  I  had  reached 
nearly  2000  feet  higher  in  the  Atlas  than  any  previous 
explorer — the  height  being  12,734  feet — having  also 
taken  a  round  of  angles  for  mapping  purposes,  it  was 
necessary  to  recommence  my  descent  without  loss  of  time. 

Keeping  round  the  head  of  the  glen  (not  daring  to 
return  by  the  road  we  had  come),  we  descended  some 
4000  feet  with  great  rapidity,  till  we  reached  the  bottom 
of  a  deep  gorge,  in  which  the  snow  still  lay  to  a  great 
depth,    forming    a    beautiful    but    treacherous    tunnel. 


THIi  ASCENT  OF  JEDEL  OGDIM'I'.  345 

tlirouffli  wliicli  ran  tlio  lu-ad-stivaiii  of  the  AVad  Nvfis. 
At  Irg,  tlie  first  villan;c  we  readied,  we  were  received 
with  profound  astonishment ;  but  hapi)ily  Shahnn  dis- 
covered a  trading  acquaintance,  and  thanks  to  his  good 
offices,  we  got  a  little  milk  and  some  walnuts,  which 
greatly  refreshed  us. 

Finally,  after  sunset  we  safely  reached  our  camp, 
and  relieved  the  fears  of  our  men,  though  we  did  not 
lessen  the  excitement  and  suspicion  of  the  natives,  who 
were  now  convinced  that  we  were  spies.  The  villagers 
kept  clear  of  us  and  brought  us  no  food,  and  I  was  fain 
to  content  myself  with  some  more  walnuts,  and  then 
turn  in,  more  weary  than  I  had  ever  been  by  a  seventy- 
mile  walk  in  Central  Africa,  though  more  from  the 
forced  exertions  than  from  the  actual  work  achieved. 

On  the  following  morning  we  left  Ogdimt  with  par- 
donable alacrity,  for  it  had  become  too  hot  for  us,  and 
a  diet  of  walnuts,  though  doubtless  nourishing,  was 
more  than  my  gluttonous  men  could  stand  or  than  I 
exactly  relished.  AVe  recrossed  the  mountains  by  a 
more  easterly  pass,  and  descended  the  Wad  Ait  Tinirt, 
till  midway  we  crossed  to  Imintella,  and  arrived  on  the 
same  day  safe  and  sound  at  Amsmiz,  to  find  all  well. 

The  ixovernor  fumed  and  stormed  on  hearingr  where 
we  had  gone  in  defiance  of  his  orders.  He  threw  the 
innocent  soldier  into  prison,  from  which  I  rescued  him 
with  the  utmost  difficulty.  He  also  threatened  Shalum 
with  all  sort  of  penalties,  but  that  worthy  Jew  figura- 
tively wrapped  himself  in  the  British  ihig  and  dared 
him  to  touch  a  hair  of  his  head. 


(     346     ) 


CHAPTER  XXIV. 

MARAKSH. 

On  the  I  3  til  of  July  we  re-entered  tlie  city  of  Morocco. 
Our  reception  by  Ben  Daoud,  the  governor  of  the  town, 
was  of  the  most  inhospitable  character,  though  we  suc- 
ceeded in  getting  a  commodious  house  in  the  heart  of 
the  Medinah.  In  some  respects  this  was  a  desirable 
state  of  matters,  as  we  were  left  quite  free  to  move 
about  as  we  pleased,  unwatched  and  unhampered  by 
troublesome  soldiers. 

There  were  various  reasons  for  taking  up  our  quar- 
ters ill  the  city  at  this  time.  C.-B.  was  still  unfit  for 
travelling,  the  heat  had  gradually  become  unbearable, 
and  finally,  we  wanted  some  stores  from  Mogador.  We 
calculated  that  we  would  be  able  to  see  all  that  we 
wanted  of  Morocco,  and  be  off  again  in  ten  days  or  a 
fortnight.  Our  calculation  would,  no  doubt,  have  come 
right  in  any  other  country  in  the  world,  but  then  we 
were  in  Morocco,  where  the  expected  rarely  happens ; 
and,  in  spite  of  ourselves,  the  fortnight  ran  into  five 
weeks  before  we  were  able  to  resume  our  mountaineer- 
ing. We  had  thus  ample  time  to  look  about  us  and 
form  a  very  fair  idea  of  the  town  and  its  ways  of  life. 


iMA  RA  KSII.  347 

We  did  not  recommence  our  exploration  of  tlie  city 
with  quite  the  same  liopeful  enthusiasm  which  cliar- 
acterised  our  first  look  round.  i\Iuch  of  the  j^lamour 
and  charm  which  our  imagination  had  woven  round 
the  thought  of  Morocco  and  the  Moor  had  long  since 
disappeared.  There  was  indeed  a  veneer  of  fascination 
still  left,  but  underneath  we  had  discovered  little  but 
what  was  dis<2:usting  and  revolting.  Of  the  latter 
the  ordinary  tourist  sees  almost  nothing,  while  ever 
confronted  with  the  former ;  and  therefore  those  who 
are  only  anxious  to  view  strange  and  unusual  sights 
may  still  wend  Morocco-wards,  and  find  much  to 
delight  them  ;  only,  if  they  want  their  pleasure  un- 
spoiled, they  must  not  scratch  beneath  the  surface. 

Before  saying  more  about  the  Moor,  however,  let 
us  try  to  form  some  more  comprehensive  idea  of 
"  Maraksh  "  than  we  have  hitherto  obtained.  Let  us 
commence  by  taking  a  coup  iVceil  over  the  city. 

From  one  corner  of  the  verandah  which  surrounds 
the  inner  court  of  our  house  a  short  flight  of  steps 
leads  up  to  the  flat  roof.  Our  house  towers,  as  you 
see,  quite  a  storey  above  the  neighbouring  dwellings, 
and  in  its  central  position  enables  us  to  see  not  only 
all  over  the  town,  but  actually  to  violate  with  our 
infidel  gaze  the  sacred  privacy  of  various  courts  in  our 
immediate  vicinity.  To  these  we  shall,  for  the  moment, 
virtuously  shut  our  eyes.  The  view  which  Maraksh 
presents  from  the  house-tops,  as  from  the  streets,  is 
miserable  and  disappointing.  On  all  sides  stretches  a 
comparatively  even  expanse  of  flat-topped  houses,  the 


348  MOROCCO. 

level  only  here  and  there  broken  by  a  slight  variation 
in  the  average  height,  as  in  the  case  of  our  own  house, 
for  instance.  As  far  as  colour  and  general  appearance 
go,  we  might  be  looking  over  a  newlj—plouglied  red- 
clay  field.  With  the  exception  of  a  bit  of  whitewashed 
wall,  or  the  green-glazed  tile  roof  of  a  mosque,  there  is 
absolutely  nothing  in  the  buildings  themselves  to  relieve 
the  prevalent  reddish  colour  of  the  city.  Apart  from 
the  houses,  however,  it  is  refreshing  to  see  in  various 
directions  groups  of  date-palms  raising  their  bright 
green  graceful  leaves  above  the  mean,  half-ruined 
houses  and  wider  areas  of  gardens  which  are  exten- 
sively scattered  through  the  town. 

The  special  features  which  distinguish  the  city,  as 
seen  from  the  house-tops,  are  the  square  minarets  ot 
some  ten  mosques,  which  rise  above  the  general  level 
to  heights  varying  from  60  to  1 00  feet.  These,  with 
their  small,  moulded,  open  windows,  and  their  walls 
ornamented  with  variously-coloured  tiles  in  arabesque 
patterns,  are  the  sole  features  of  architectural  interest 
which  greet  our  eves.  Among  these  minarets  one 
deserves  special  mention — that  of  the  Kutubia.  This 
fine  minaret  within  a  radius  of  thirty  miles  had  been 
seen  by  us  as  the  one  conspicuous  feature  in  the  Plain 
of  Morocco.  From  the  mountains  of  llahamna,  as 
from  Sidi  Rehal  and  Amsmiz,  it  had  attracted  our 
attention  in  its  kingly  isolation  ;  and  close  to  it  as 
we  now  were,  we  could  form  a  better  idea  what  a  con- 
trast it  presents  to  the  insignificant  erections  around, 
rising  as  it  does  to  a  height  of  270  feet.      The  one  was 


M.  I  R.  I  KSir. 


349 


a  type  of  the  ^[oor  who  conquered  Spain,  and  excelled 
the  Christian  alike  in  war  and  all  the  arts  of  civilisa- 
tion ;  the  others  were  fit  expressions  of  the  degenerate 
Moor  of  the  present  day,  who,  lost  to  all  enterprise, 

and  Void  of  any  trace  of  tlio  good  (jualitios  of  his  an- 
cestor, seeks  but  to  prevent  anniliilation  by  the  most 
absolute  isolation  from  contact  with  the  outside  world, 


I'lIK    WALLS   OK    MOROCCO. 


waiting  for  th;i1  d;iy  wlirn  Allah  will  arise  and  destroy 
the  infidi'ls  and  replace  His  chosen  on  the  pinnacle 
from  which  they  have  fallen. 

The  city  as  a  whole  forms  a  slightly  irregular  quad- 
rangle eight  miles  square,  to  which  is  tacked  on  the 
palace  garden  of  Agd(>l  like  a  ]-»ondant  or  tail.  It  is 
surroundtMl  tliroughouf  by  a  high  wall  with  s([uaro  forts 


350  MOROCCO. 

at  intervals,  Lotli  alike  falling  rapidly  to  decay.  With 
the  exception  of  the  gateways,  of  wliich  there  are  eight, 
the  building  material  of  the  fortifications  is  tahia,  a 
species  of  concrete  composed  of  clay  and  lime,  which, 
when  well  made,  forms  a  wonderfully  durable  com- 
pound. As  a  protection  against  an  organised  assault, 
neither  walls  nor  forts  would  be  of  the  slightest  value. 
The  smallest  piece  of  artillery  in  any  European  army 
could  smash  it  to  pieces  with  the  greatest  ease. 

It  would  be  difficult  to  estimate  the  population  of  the 
city,  but  my  own  conclusion  is  that  normally  it  does  not 
exceed  30,000,  of  which  a  third  are  Jews.  When  the 
Sultan  takes  up  his  residence,  the  number  will  rise  to 
something  like  6o,000,  which  then  includes  the  army 
and  all  the  camp  and  court  followers. 

Like  other  Moorish  towns,  INIaraksh  is  divided  into 
the  Kasbah,  which  has  a  governor  of  its  own,  and  con- 
tains the  Sultan's  palace  and  its  adjuncts,  the  Medinah 
or  Moorish  civilian  quarters,  and  the  Mellah.  The 
Medinah,  besides  having  its  own  proper  walls,  is  also 
intersected  by  others  which  divide  it  into  secondary 
quarters,  capable  of  being  shut  off  when  necessary — an 
arrangement  no  doubt  intended  for  the  easier  isolation 
of  any  outbreak  among  the  inhabitants. 

Having  thus  formed  some  general  idea  of  the  city  as 
seen  from  the  house-tops,  we  may  now  descend  and 
commence  a  more  detailed  exploration  of  its  sights  and 
scenes. 

In  the  more  business  part  of  the  town  there  is 
absolutely  nothing  to  remark  but  the   passing  people. 


MARAKSH, 


351 


Narrow  lanes  run  everywhere  without  plan  or  reason, 
hemmed  in  by  blank  walls  of  tabia.  These  walls,  like 
the  !^^oors,  are  for  the  most  part  in  a  sadly  denrenerato 


condition,  waiting,  indeed,  like   their  owners,  for  the 
fate  which  Allah  has  decreed  for  them.      The  ^Moorish 


352  MOROCCO. 

idea  seems  to  bo  that  it  would  be  a  sinful  flying  in  the 
face  of  Providence  to  bolster  up  the  tottering  wall  or 
patch  up  its  dilapidations,  and  liencc  one  meets  at  every 
step  buildings  in  the  most  dangerous  condition  over- 
lianging  the  street.  Beneath  these,  however,  the  in- 
habitants, strong  in  their  faith  that  their  day  and 
hour  is  fixed,  pass  with  the  same  leisurely  step  which 
characterises  their  daily  walk.  Not  less  soundly  do  the 
owners  sleep  inside.  Yet  there  are  few  days  without 
a  disastrous  catastrophe,  and  every  squall  or  strong 
breeze  which  crosses  the  city  leaves  behind  it  ruined 
houses  and  people  buried  beneath  them.  During  our 
stay  several  such  accidents  occurred,  but  excited  no 
remark.  It  is  in  the  commencement  of  winter,  with  its 
rains  and  stormy  weather,  that  most  of  these  casualties 
occur,  not  a  day  passing  without  its  tale  of  disaster. 
Probably  few  towns  in  any  country  present  such  a 
death-list  from  the  falling  in  of  houses. 

Outside  the  business  quarter  there  is  almost  nothing 
to  attract  the  traveller.  There  are  a  few  mosques,  but 
most  of  these  are  so  buried  up  that  nothing  but  a  bit 
of  the  minaret  and  the  open  door  can  be  seen.  The 
little  one  does  get  glimpses  of  is  tempting  enough,  and 
suggests  a  rare  treat  if  one  were  but  permitted  to  stroll 
inside  and  enjoy  the  subdued  lights  and  cool  temperature 
of  the  sacred  building  while  revelling  in  the  examina- 
tion of  its  artistic  features. 

One  or  two  of  these  mosques  are  of  considerable 
antiquity,  and  doubtless  preserve  specimens  of  the 
earlier  and  better  genius  of  the  JMoors. 


MARAKSH. 


353 


Tliat  of  the  Kutubia  shows  nothing  in  its  great 
barrack-like  buildings  to  call  for  description.  The 
tower  is  the  only  one  of  its  kind  built  of  stone  in 
Maraksh.  It  is  square  in  form,  with  some  handsomely 
carved  and  moulded  windows,  while  its  sides  are  cut 
in  relief  in  effective  fretwork,  and  further  adorned  with 
bands  of  geometrically  arranged  tiles  in  green  and 
black.  A  small  lantern  surmounts  the  tower,  bearinor 
three  gilt  globes,  which  threaten  to  topple  over.  The 
lantern  is  reached  by  a  winding  plane,  there  being  no 
steps. 

From  whatever  point  of  view  the  Kutubia  is  ob- 
served, it  dominates  the  town  in  a  most  strikinsr  and 
impressive  fashion,  and  neither  in  town  or  plain  can 
one  escape  from  it.  Unlike  all  the  others,  too,  it  stands 
alone,  surrounded  by  open  squares  and  fine  gardens, 
which  throw  its  architectural  features  into  full  relief, 
and  add  to  its  impressive  beautv  bv  an  effective  framini' 
of  trees. 

The  modern  rival  to  the  Kutubia  is  the  huge  Brum- 
magem mosque  of  Abdul  Aziz,  the  patron  saint  of  the 
city.  This  mosque  is  the  special  pride  and  glory  of 
Morocco,  but  no  more  approaches  the  architectural 
impressions  of  the  Kutubia  than  does  the  degenerate 
Moor  of  the  present  day  resemble  his  high-souled  and 
enlightened  ancestor  of  five  hundred  years  ago. 

We  did  not  venture  to  make  a  near  examination  of 
the  mosque  in  question,  and  what  we  saw  of  it  from  a 
little  distance  calls  for  no  remark. 

Abdul    Aziz,    besides    being    the    patron    saint    of 

Z 


354  MOROCCO. 

Morocco,  holds  that  position  also  iu  relation  to  the 
blind,  the  crippled,  and  persons  otherwise  deformed. 
It  is  reported  of"  him  that  on  one  occasion,  on  meeting 
a  rival  saint  called  Si  Hamad  u-Musa,  and  being  in  an 
irritable  mood,  he  cursed  him,  and  swore  that  all  his 
descendants  should  be  beggars.  Si  Hamad  u-Musa  was 
at  once  put  on  his  mettle,  and  swore  in  retaliation  that 
the  children  and  children's  children  of  Abdul  Aziz  should 
all  be  deformed.  Hence  the  fact  that  all  beggars  claim 
the  one  as  their  ancestor  or  saint,  and  the  presence  of 
the  crowds  of  the  diseased  who  gather  around  the 
shrine  of  the  other. 

No  one  ever  goes  to  the  mosque  of  Abdul  Aziz 
empty-handed.  He  must  take  something  with  him 
in  money  or  kind  to  deposit  in  the  treasury.  The 
Sultan  himself,  when  in  Morocco,  sets  the  example  by 
going  in  great  state  and  contributing  several  hundred 
dollars  to  this  charitable  fund.  By  this  means  many 
hundreds  of  deformed  and  diseased  poor  are  supported. 

There  is  a  story  current  in  the  city  that  Morocco 
is  doomed  by  Allah  to  be  overrun  by  a  French  army 
as  a  scourge  to  the  faithful,  but  that  on  its  arrival  at 
IMaraksh  the  general  will  proceed  to  the  mosque  of 
Abdul  xiziz,  and  on  his  entering  he  and  his  whole  army 
of  infidels  will  at  once  recognise  that  "  there  is  no  God 
but  the  one  God,  and  that  Mohammed  is  His  prophet." 

There  are  several  other  important  mosques  in 
Morocco,  such  as  Sidi  Yusuf,  Sidi  Wasan,  &c.,  but 
their  exteriors  present  no  features  worthy  of  de- 
scription. 


MA  RA  KSII. 


355 


Outside  tlie  ])urely  business  and  uuinufacturing 
quarters  the  only  other  structures  deserving  of  notice 
are  one  or  two  gateways,  the  fiindals  or  business  places 
of  the  wealthy  merchants,  and  several  fountains. 

Of  the  gateways,  the  finest  is  one  leading  into  the 
Kasbah,  no  great  distance  from  the  Kutubia.  This  is 
really   a   very    handsome    massive    structure   of   stone, 


KNTUANCK  TO    PALACE   COUKT. 


beautifully  carved  in  arabesque  scroll  work.  Like  the 
Kutubia,  and  all  things  artistic  in  Morocco  which  com- 
mand our  admiration,  this  Kasbah  gate  belongs  to  the 
old  order  of  things.  The  date  of  its  erection  is,  as  far 
as  I  am  aware,  unknown,  ])ut  it  is  ])r<ili:tlily  not  less 
than  four  hundred  vears  old. 


356  MOROCCO. 

Among  the  later  Iniiklings  of  the  same  character, 
the  most  effective  are  those  to  be  seen  inside  the 
precincts  of  the  palace.  One  of  these,  communicating 
between  two  courts,  is  perhaps  in  the  best  style  of 
modern  Moorish  art.  Its  chief  characteristics  are  the 
fine  arch  surmounted  by  effective  projecting  mouldings, 
a  sloping  top  or  roof  covered  with  green  tiles,  and  a 
small  pinnacle  on  either  side.  The  colour  is  white  with 
a  bordering  of  lake  to  represent  layers  of  bricks.  Even 
this  palace  gateway  is  constructed  of  talna  and  sun- 
dried  bricks  plastered  over  and  whitewashed. 

In  the  palace  grounds  nothing  but  crenelated  walls 
and  open  squares  are  open  to  the  inspection  of  the 
European,  so  that  what  there  may  be  of  the  beautiful 
and  interesting  remains  hidden  out  of  sight. 

In  one  corner  we  saw  a  private  doorway  with  its 
surrounding  decoration  of  tiles.  Our  attempts  to  photo- 
graph some  of  these  gateways  and  doors  gave  rise  to 
various  amusing  and  exciting  incidents.  It  was  of  no 
use  to  ask  permission.  That  would  only  have  resulted 
in  a  blank  refusal  and  steps  being  taken  to  stop  us. 
Our  only  plan  was  to  make  up  our  mind  beforehand 
what  we  should  photograph,  and  then  take  the  palace 
servants  and  guai'ds  by  surprise.  The  courts  being 
open  to  the  public  and  used  as  thoroughfares,  we 
trotted  quickly  up  to  the  place  chosen,  dismounted,  and 
proceeded  with  all  possible  dispatch  to  focus  the  camera 
and  take  the  negative.  It  seemed  always  to  take  some 
time  before  the  guards  and  others  clearly  understood 
what  was  about  to   happen.      The  moment    they  did 


MARAKSH.  357 

SO,  they  rushed  to  stup  us,  slioutiug  and  waving  their 
hands  in  the  fashion  of  people  who  try  to  frighten  back 
animals  venturing  into  tabooed  enclosures.  Of  course 
we  paid  no  heed  to  such  demonstrations,  and  usually 
completed  our  work  before  the  excited  people  reached 
us,  when,  our  object  achieved,  we  were  able  to  receive 
them  smilingly  as  we  leisurely  put  up  our  apparatus. 

It  was  difi'erent  in  the  streets  and  market-places. 
There  we  got  photos  with  the  utmost  difficulty.  No 
matter  how  empty  either  might  be,  a  minute  after  our 
arrival  at  a  selected  spot  crowds  were  swarming  round 
us,  more  or  less  troublesome  and  obstructive.  On 
more  than  one  occasion  these  crowds  became  threaten- 
ing, and  we  had  to  lly  precipitately  to  escape  being 
mobbed,  or  at  least  having  our  instruments  ruined. 
At  these  times  we  missed  the  services  of  the  Kaid's 
soldiers,  for  without  them  we  dared  not  drive  back  the 
reviling  crowds,  who  would  have  promptly  resented  any 
attempt  of  ours  to  lay  infidel  hands  upon  their  sacred 
persons. 

The  city  of  Morocco  is  unusually  well  supplied  with 
water.  Deep  underground  channels  convey  it  in  abun- 
dance from  the  Wads  Urika  and  llcraya  to  all  parts  of 
the  town.  There  are  many  open  channels  also,  for 
the  watering  of  the  outer  and  inner  gardens. 

The  fountains  where  the  inhabitants  supply  them- 
selves for  household  purposes  are  usually  neat,  hand- 
somely decorated  with  wood-carving,  stucco  arabesque, 
and  beautiful  tile  dados  of  the  most  intricate  patterns. 
The   best,  of  course,  are  the  oldest,  the   modern  foun- 


358  MOROCCO. 

tains  being  usually  of  the  plainest  description.  The 
former  frequently  appear  among  ruined  walls,  melan- 
choly relics  of  better  times  and  better  deeds,  and 
well  merit  such  a  title  as  "  Serb-u-Shuz  "  ("  Drink  and 
gaze  !  "),  applied  to  one  of  them.  One  usually  stumbles 
on  them  by  accident  in  the  most  unexpected  places. 
Some  are  attached  to  mosques,  such  as  that  of  Sidi 
Wasan.  It  would  be  useless  to  attempt  to  convey 
any  idea  of  the  wealth  and  character  of  the  decoration 
of  these  charming  structui'es  by  any  amount  of  word- 
painting,  and  I  leave  the  camera  to  speak  for  me. 

We  may  now  venture  to  enter  the  business  part  of 
the  town.  Here  we  need  look  for  no  architectural 
characteristics.  The  streets  are  dirtier  and  more  full  of 
garbage,  the  houses  are  even  more  mean  and  more  dila- 
pidated than  elsewhere,  rarely  rising  above  one  storey, 
and  as  seldom  showing  a  relieving  bit  of  ornament;  but 
the  traveller  is  hardly  aware  of  the  fact  till  afterwards. 
He  is  caught  up  by  the  bus}^  life  that  throbs  around 
him,  and  stands  enthralled  with  the  sights  and  scenes 
which  pass  before  him  in  endless  succession.  The  nar- 
row streets  are  thronged  with  hurrying  currents  of 
human  beings ;  the  market-places  are  packed  with 
ghostly  crowds,  and  from  a  dozen  quarters  comes  the 
inspiring  din  of  a  hundred  industries.  After  all,  it 
does  seem  that  some  work  is  done  in  Morocco,  and 
that,  whatever  be  the  aim  and  ideal  of  the  Moor's  life, 
the  many  have  still  to  do  something  to  keep  soul 
and  body  together.  The  most  of  the  streets  in  the 
business  quarters   are   shaded  in  some  way  from  the 


MA  R.l  KSH. 


359 


fierce  summer  sun.  In  one  it  is  a  vine  that  gives  the 
needed  protection,  in  another  mats  or  branches,  in  any 
case  producing  a  much-needed  shade,  and  enhancing 
the  quaint,  picturesque  effects  of  the  streets. 

The  principal  thoroughfares  are  mostly  occupied  by 
butchers,  greengrocers,  &c.,  and  petty  shops  to  supply 


A  I'urrKu  s  .siior. 


the  daily  domestic  wants  of  the  city.  From  these  on 
either  side  lead  the  special  quarters  of  particular  classes 
of  workmen.  Here  it  is  the  silversmiths',  where  each 
workman  sits  cross-legged,  close  to  his  little  furnace, 
with  all  his  apparatus  within  arm's  reach,  so  that  lie 
requires  not  to  rise.      There  it  is  the  carpenters',  who 


36o  MOROCCO. 

also,  as  far  as  circumstances  will  permit,  sit  cross-legged 
at  work.  Farther  on  we  may  explore  the  gunsmiths', 
and  watch  the  interesting  processes  of  turning  out  the 
old-fashioned  flint-locks,  which  the  Moor  still  clings 
to.  Processes  and  tools  alike  are  of  the  simplest, 
though  the  results  are  remarkably  good  in  many  in- 
stances. 

Another  quarter  is  devoted  to  the  manipulation  of 
Morocco  leather,  for  which  Maraksh  still  retains  its 
ancient  reputation,  tlunigh  European  nations  are  now 
competing  with  it  in  its  production.  Here  we  may 
see  the  artisan  at  work  turning  out  the  handsomely 
embroidered  bags  which  are  the  indispensable  hold-alls 
of  the  pocketless  Moor.  Others  are  at  work  on  the 
plain  yellow  slippers  which  cover  the  feet  of  the  men, 
or  the  richly  embroidered  red  ones  worn  by  the  ladies. 
Most  interesting  is  it,  however,  to  watch  the  method 
of  ornamenting  the  leather  for  cushions,  tray-mats, 
kief-pouches,  &c.  By  the  simj^le  process  of  cutting 
out  the  intricate  patterns  in  which  the  Moor  delights 
on  red,  green,  or  lavender  coloured  leather,  and  pick- 
ing off  the  epidermis  or  outer  skin,  the  desired  result 
is  produced,  as  is  shown  in  the  illustration  of  the 
leather  tray-mat.  This  class  of  artistic  work  is  done 
with  great  rapidity.  Only  a  few  guiding  lines  and 
circles  are  drawn,  and  then,  without  further  sketching 
in,  the  workman  commences  with  a  chisel  like  a  graver's 
tool,  and  with  skilled  hand  cuts  out  his  arabesques. 
Then  there  are  the  saddlemakers'  quarters,  the  tanners', 
the  dyers',  the  cobblers',  where  the  seemingly  irrepar- 


EXTKANCE   TO   OXE   OF   THE   BUSINESS  Ql'ARTEKS,    .MAHAK.SH. 

Page  361. 


I 


r  ,5 


362  MOROCCO. 

articles  for  sale,  sliowiiifr  them  off,  and  announcing  tlio 
last  bid  they  had  received.  We  were  thus  enabled  to 
secure  several  things  at  very  moderate  prices,  though 
at  first  the  auctioneers  tried  hard  to  cheat  us  by 
calling  fictitious  bids.  As  bearers  of  the  Sultan's 
letters,  we  were  not  required  to  pay  the  Government 
tax  of  five  per  cent,  on  everything  bought.  Men's 
haiJi's,  and  women's  haftans,  hazams  or  waist-bands, 
huge  coarse  gold  ear-rings  with  red  coral  pendants, 
and  silver  wristlets,  were  the  chief  articles  sold. 

The  Kaseria  was  a  great  place  for  the  demi-mo7ide 
and  the  "  mashers  "  of  Morocco.  Considerable  numbers 
of  the  former  were  always  sitting  about,  tr3'ing  the  effect 
of  their  fine  black  eyes  on  the  bystanders.  Many  of 
them  also  were  there  to  watch  the  sale  of  their  dresses 
and  jewellery,  to  which  necessity  the  incessant  vicissi- 
tudes of  fortune  and  the  exactions  of  the  Kaid  were 
continually  reducing  them.  It  is  a  common  mistake  to 
suppose  that  this  class  of  women  is  comparatively  un- 
known in  Mohammedan  countries.  So  it  would  be 
if  the  laws  were  carried  out,  but  in  Morocco,  the  most 
strictly  religious  of  them  all,  this  is  far  from  being  the 
case.  There  is  no  town  in  the  empii-e  where  they  do 
not  exist  in  considerable  numbers,  and  in  this  respect 
Maraksh  has  quite  a  notoriety.  There  are  laws  of 
course,  against  them,  but  they  are  applied  with  a 
judicious  eye  to  the  Raid's  advantage,  not  to  the  dis- 
couragement of  vice.  Either  a  regular  tax  is  levied 
upon  these  unfortunates  by  the  extraction  from  them 
of  continual  bribes,  or  they  are  judiciously  nursed  till 


MA  RA  KSII.  363 

they  have  acquired  a  little  money  or  some  handsome 
clothes  and  jewellery,  when  they  are  swooped  down 
upon,  stripped  of  everything,  and  put  in  prison  until 
such  time  as  their  friends  are  prepared  to  secure  their 
release  by  the  payment  of  an  additional  fine.  After 
that  they  arc  allowed  to  resume  their  old  life.  Many 
of  these  women  are  very  pious  and  strict  in  attending 
to  their  religious  duties,  and  I  iiiysclf  have  encountered 
a  number  of  them  on  a  painful  pilgrimage  to  the 
sanctuary  of  Mulai  Ibrahim  in  the  mountains  of  Gur- 
guri.  So  little  are  the  denunciations  of  the  Prophet 
regarded,  that  we  have  it  on  the  very  best  authority 
that  descendants  of  Mohammed  himself  are  among  the 
ranks  of  these  fallen  ones.  This,  ho^vever,  by  the  way. 
Next  to  the  various  quarters  where  articles  are 
made  and  sold,  the  various  daily  marts  scattered  about 
throughout  the  city  are  of  the  greatest  interest.  Not 
far  from  the  Kascria  is  the  grain-market.  The  crowd 
which  usually  collects  here,  of  which  a  large  proportion 
are  women,  liiis  an  iqijx'aranee  remarkably  suggestive 
of  a  ghostly  host  swathed  in  grave-like  cerements. 
Almost  without  exception  the  buyers  and  sellers  are  in 
white  or  creamy-coloured  hails.  There  is  less  move- 
ment and  bustle  than  in  the  streets,  the  crowd  being 
usually  too  dense  to  allow  of  much  movement,  but  a 
thunderous  din  rises  from  its  midst,  and  tends  to  dissi- 
pate tlie  ellect  of  the  weird  appearance  of  the  shrouded 
multitude.  Close  to  the  grain-market  is  the  slave- 
market.  To  the  Nazarene  this  is  forbidden  ground,  but 
none  the  less  we  contrived  to  penetrate  within  the  gate, 


364  MOROCCO. 

and  get  a  glimpse  of  a  small  square,  or  rather  large  court, 
surrounded  by  a  pillared  verandah,  with  cells  or  rooms 
beneath.  Here  were  groups  of  handsomeh'-dressed 
Moors  gathered  critically  around  various  women,  well 
dressed,  and  evidently  born  and  brought  up  in  Morocco, 
their  only  rivals  being  one  or  two  raw  slave-girls  fresh 
from  the  Sudan,  with  hardly  a  rag  to  cover  their  well- 
knit  figures,  and  no  veil  to  partially  hide  the  hideous- 
ness  of  their  faces.  Before  we  had  time  to  see  more, 
our  intrusion  was.  discovered,  and  we  had  to  fly  before 
a  volley  of  curses  and  threats. 

In  another  place  was  an  oil-market.  In  many  ways 
this  was  the  most  interesting  of  all,  for  here  we  could 
contrast  with  each  other  the  weather-beaten  features  of 
the  mountaineer,  the  fierce-eyed  and  gaunt  forms  of 
the  wild  Arab  of  Sus  and  Ras-el-Wad,  the  debased 
Arab  of  the  surrounding  country,  and  the  sleek  Moor 
and  cringing  Jew  of  the  town. 

Besides  the  daily  markets  for  such  produce  as  grain 
and  oil,  there  are  two  great  weekly  sol's.  At  the  Sok- 
el-Khamis  or  Thursday  market,  horses,  mules,  camels, 
donkeys,  cattle,  &c.,  are  sold.  It  is  held  outside  the 
Bab-el-Kharais,  which  we  entered  on  coming  from  Saffi. 
Thousands  throng  to  it  for  miles  around,  and  make  a 
wonderful  show.  Here,  as  at  the  Kaseria,  the  animals 
are  sold  by  dchds,  who  mount  them  when  mules  and 
horses,  and  show  off  their  paces  very  much  in  the 
fashion  of  people  at  horse-shows  at  home.  Inside  the 
walls,  and  not  fai-  from  the  Bab-el-I\hamis,  is  a  secondary 
sole,  where  second-hand  articles  of  all  sorts,  with  pot- 


MARAKSH.  365 

tery,  spices,  native  medicines,  Sec,  arc  sold.  Itinerant 
jugglers  and  other  public  entertainers,  including  the 
omnipresent  snake-charmers,  take  advantage  of  the 
crowd  to  show  off  their  skill  for  the  expected  Jliis. 
The  scene  at  this  market  is  always  very  effective,  the 
crowd  being  broken  up  and  shown  off  by  large  mounds 
of  rubbish,  and  surrounded  on  one  side  by  fine  date- 
groves  and  gardens,  while  spreading  away  on  the  other 
is  the  great  city. 

The  second  or  Friday  market  is  lield  in  a  large  square 
ia  the  very  heart  of  the  town. 

Of  all  the  public  sights  and  scenes  which  ^Morocco 
presents,  none  attract  and  delight  the  traveller  more 
than  the  exhibitions  and  entertainments  held  in  the 
evening  in  the  square  of  the  Friday  market.  The 
fierce  heat  of  the  day  is  past,  and  the  cool  breezes 
which  spring  up  make  it  delightful  to  turn  out  of  the 
now  heated  courts  and  rooms  to  enjoy  the  invigorating 
freshness.  The  Moor  naturally  wends  his  way  to  the 
market-square,  for  it  is  his  public  recreation-ground, 
his  music-hall,  his  reading-room,  his  everything,  indeed, 
that  ministers  to  his  enjoyment. 

There  is  a  small  group  of  venerable  be-turbaned 
men  listening  attentively  while  some  one  reads  a 
chapter  of  the  Koran.  A  little  way  ofi'  is  a  blind 
man  singing  a  sacred  song  in  praise  of  Mohammed. 
There  is  something  touching  in  the  sight  of  the  pic- 
turesque old  singer  standing  in  the  midst  of  his  sym- 
pathetic audience  and  emitting  his  sonorous  guttural 
notes,  while  his  face  is  turned  upward  and  his  sight- 


366  MOROCCO. 

less  eyeballs  twitch  involuntarily.  We  pass  on  to 
another  group  gathered  about  a  Shellach  musician, 
who  plays  a  reed,  and  draws  from  it  quaint  and 
not  unpleasing  music.  Men  with  tambourines  ac- 
company him,  and  a  boy  dances  to  his  piping  with 
many  strange  wrigglings  of  the  body.  Farther  on  is 
a  iusfcjler,  one  too  who  has  shown  his  skill  in  Euro- 
pean  circuses,  and  by  virtue  of  his  master,  Si  Hamad 
u-Musa,  has  astonished  the  Nazarenes.  His  dress 
and  manners  tell  that  he  is  a  travelled  man,  and  the 
English  or  French  phrases  w^iich  he  shouts  at  us  make 
the  matter  certain.  His  tricks  do  not  attract  us  much, 
but  it  is  different  when  we  find  ourselves  before  an- 
other circle  of  eager  listeners.  Here  a  genuine  story 
of  the  "  Arabian  Nights  "  is  being  recounted  to  the 
believing  crowd,  exactly  as  it  has  been  recounted  for 
hundreds  of  years,  and  delighting  an  Arab  audience 
with  its  never-waning  interest.  How  we  long  to 
understand  the  rich  gutturals  which  fall  so  volubly 
from  the  narrator's  lips,  and  feel  that  if  we  could  but 
get  a  clue  to  the  story  he  tells,  we  could  follow  his 
animated  movements  and  supply  meaning  to  the 
sounds.  There  is  another  who  while  he  talks  keeps 
up  a  running  accompaniment  on  a  gimbery,  his  narra- 
tives apparently  mostly  humorous,  to  judge  from  his 
pantomime  and  the  laughter  he  evokes,  and  probably 
turning  upon  some  dubious  adventure  among  the  fairer 
sex. 

The   entertainments    provided    are    endless — music, 
dancing,  fencing,  and    shooting   at   such   marks  as  an 


MA  RA  KSII.  367 

orange  held  on  a  stick  ten  yards  oil'.  ]\Iost  popular  of 
all,  however,  is  the  snake-charming.  This  seems  to  be 
a  never-failing  source  of  amusement  to  the  Moor.  It 
is  awanting  at  no  soh  or  market ;  it  is  on  nightly 
exhibition  in  every  town.  As  the  national  and  char- 
acteristic amusement  of  Morocco,  it  has  no  rival.  We 
ourselves  never  tired  watching  the  performers.  Their 
acting  had  a  strange  wild  charm  about  it  which  at- 
tracted us  far  more  than  the  actual  feats  they  per- 
formed. Their  very  appearance — gaunt  face,  eyes  with 
a  restless  gleam  of  madness,  and  long  matted  locks 
hanging  from  the  crown  of  the  head  down  the  neck — 
was  in  itself  sufficient  to  rivet  our  attention. 

The  stamp  of  religion  was  put  on  all  their  doings. 
They  commenced  with  invocations  to  Allah  and  Sidi 
Aissa,  raising  their  hands  imploringly.  At  times  they 
would  address  a  prayer  to  Mohammed,  and  then  all 
hands  were  held  in  a  supplicating  attitude.  Three  or 
four  men  sat  with  tambourines,  and  thumped  them 
with  greater  or  less  vigour  as  circumstances  seemed  to 
demand.  In  his  performances  the  snake-charmer  goes 
through  a  regular  series  of  evolutions.  For  a  time  ho 
dances  round  with  the  uncanny  movements  of  a  witch 
who  brews  a  potion  or  works  a  charm.  He  seems  to 
be  imbibing  the  spirit  and  I'aitli  ot"  the  apostle  of  his 
order,  becomes  more  and  more  excited,  more  and  more 
oblivious  of  his  audience.  The  proper  ecstatic  mood 
attained,  he  bends  down  to  the  skin-covered  cylindrical 
basket,  and  draws  out  one  or  two  snakes — a  deadly 
looking  cobra  and  the  even  more  repulsive  hj'a  or  puff- 


368 


MOROCCO. 


adder.  The  former  rears  a  foot  of  its  body  from  the 
ground,  and  holds  its  head  at  right  angles,  ever  ready 
to  strike.  The  lefa,  on  the  other  hand,  lies  flat,  watch- 
ing the  performer  with  its  cold  glittering  eyes.  We 
are  just  getting  absorbed  in  the  sight,  and  think  the 
special  feats  about  to  begin,  when  a  stoppage  takes 
place.  Allah  and  Sidi  Aissa  are  again  invoked.  The 
crowd,  with  hands  held  before  them,  join  in  prayer,  and  a 
small  contribution  to  defray  expenses  is  collected.    Then 


A    MOORISH    AUDIENCE. 


the  snake-charming  commences.  The  charmer  tempts 
the  Icfa  to  spring  at  him,  while  he  moves  round  with 
swaying  body  and  a  dancing  step,  chanting  continuously. 
As  he  thus  turns  and  twists,  the  cobra  ever  keeps  itself 
partially  erect,  watchfully  following  the  movements  of 
its  owner,  its  head  turning  round  on  its  body  as  on 
a  pivot.  At  times  it  strikes  at  him.  Louder  grows 
the  din  of  the  tambourines  and  more  excited  the 
behaviour  of  the  performer.      Suddenly  he  draws   out 


MA  RA  KSII. 


369 


a  small  snake  and  holds  it  up  before  liim.  He  pushes 
out  his  toiiyue,  and  the  snake  bites  it.  Ho  applies  it 
to  his  le^'',  with  a  similar  result.  Thi'  onlookers  now 
stand  in  hushed  expectancy,  while  the  noise  from  the 
tambourines  is  redoubled.  We  also  stand  for  a  moment 
expectant,  looking  for  some  strange  denouement.  The 
denouement  comes,  but  hardly  as  we  imagined.  For 
the  performance  stops  at  the  most  interesting  moment, 
when  the  smallest  contributions  are  thankfully  re- 
ceiveti.  We  throw  in  ours,  and  having  seen  enough 
for  one  night,  move  slowly  back  to  our  quarters. 


LEATUEU   TEA    1  llAV    MAT. 


2  A 


(     370     ) 


CHAPTER  XXV. 

LIFE    IN    MARAKSH. 

During  our  stay  in  MaraksL.  we  tried  in  some  measure 
to  liye  the  life  of  the  Moor.  In  certain  resj^ects  there 
was  but  little  difficulty.  The  terrific  heat  of  mid- 
summer made  inaction  during  the  most  of  the  day 
almost  a  necessity. 

On  our  arrival,  the  thermometer,  in  the  best  shade 
we  could  obtain  in  our  house,  registered  a  temperature 
of  65°  in  the  morning,  and  85°  in  the  afternoon;  but 
thereafter  it  rose  daily,  till  on  the  25th  the  heat  was 
95°.  On  the  29th  it  rose  to  98°.  These  readings 
were  obtained  in  the  doorway  leading  from  our  prin- 
cipal room  to  a  shady  verandah,  where  the  heat  was 
5°  higher.  The  minimum  temperature  was  more 
variable,  and  ranged  from  68°  to  80°  degrees.  On 
the  28th  a  south  wind  blew  during  the  afternoon, 
and  seemed  like  a  blast  from  a  furnace.  Yellow  clouds 
of  fine  dust  obscured  the  sky  and  everything  beyond 
our  immediate  neighbourhood. 

During  the  following  week  the  temperature  fell  till 
it  reached  as  low  as  89°  on  the  ist  of  August,  and 
then  commenced  to   auG^ment  till   it   reached  100°  0^ 


LllE  IN  MARAKSII.  371 

the  5tb,  at  which  point  it  remained  till  6.30  p.m., 
when  it  fell  to  99°.  This  high  temperature  was  again 
due  to  a  desert  wind  from  the  south,  bringing  with  it 
suffocating  clouds  of  fine  dust.  The  night  following 
was  hot  and  feveri.sh,  making  sleep  impossible.  In 
the  morning  the  theraiometer  still  registered  86°.  At 
9  A.M.  it  had  risen  to  90°.  At  2  p.m.  the  hot  wind 
again  set  in  from  the  south-west,  with  even  more 
violence  than  on  the  previous  day,  accompanied  by 
thunder  and  lightning  and  the  same  suffocating  clouds 
of  fine  dust.  Under  its  influence  the  temperature  in 
the  verandah  rose  to  112°,  though  by  keeping  the 
door  closed  it  registered  only  96°  in  the  inner  room. 

The  heat  of  the  succeeding  days  continued  to  be  ex- 
cessive. The  respective  maximum  temperature  of  the 
verandah  and  the  inner  room  with  closed  doors  were  : 
the  7th,  108°  and  97°;  8th,  108^  and  97°;  9th,  104" 
;uid  95°  ;  1 0th,  102°  and  96°.  On  those  dates  there 
were  hot  south-west  winds  and  clouds  of  dust.  On 
the  lOth  I  removed  the  thermometer  to  the  head  of 
the  staircase,  where  there  was  a  draught  and  the  best 
shaded  corner  in  the  verandah.  On  the  I2th,  103° 
was  registered;  13th.  I0i°;  14th,  98°.  On  the  1 8th 
the  heat  had  gone  down  to  90°,  but  rose  again  on  the 
23  rd  to  101°.  There  were  indications,  however,  that 
the  worst  was  past,  and  the  cooler  months  setting  in. 

Needless  to  say,  with  a  heat  of  from  96°  to  112°  F. 
little  could  be  done.  Our  usual  course  was  to  quit 
the  inner  room  early  in  the  morning,  leaving  the  door 
open  till  about  8  a.m.      After  that  time  the  door  was 


Zli  MOROCCO. 

shut  to  keep  out  the  rapidly  increasing  heat  of  the  day 
atmosphere,  while  retaining  the  cooler  night-air  inside. 
Such  business  as  we  had  to  do  was  then  transacted, 
the  mules  and  horses  seen  to,  and  perhaps  a  market 
visited. 

Our  household  expenses  were  by  no  means  exces- 
sive, though  everything  that  Morocco  could  supply  was 
lavishly  procured.  The  daily  cost  of  the  keep  of  our- 
selves and  Assor,  seven  servants,  two  horses,  and  eight 
mules,  amounted  only  to  the  small  sum  of  ten  shillings 
at  most.  Mutton  and  beef,  milk,  eggs,  fowls,  with 
melons,  cucumbers,  tomatoes,  onions,  potatoes,  grapes, 
figs,  &c.,  were  supplied  in  abundance  at  ridiculous 
prices,  as  well  as  straw  and  barley  for  our  animals. 
A  dozen  pounds  of  the  most  delicious  large  grapes, 
resembling  our  best  hot-house  grapes,  could  be  ob- 
tained for  less  than  a  penny  a  pound. 

Towards  mid-day,  when  the  heat  was  approaching 
its  worst,  there  was  nothing  for  it  but  to  retire  to  our 
inner  room,  shut  the  door  and  lie  quite  still  in  semi- 
darkness,  divested  of  every  article  of  dress  we  could 
spare.  Of  course  there  was  absolutely  not  a  breath  of 
air,  our  chief  object  being  to  prevent  any  circulation 
when  the  outer  temjDerature  was  several  degrees  higher 
than  that  of  the  room.  Our  experience  of  life  in 
Morocco  under  these  circumstances  enabled  us  to  see 
the  reason  for  the  windowless  rooms  of  the  Moors. 
The  arrangement  prevailing  in  most  Moorish  houses  is 
calculated  to  keep  the  temperature  lower  during  the 
dav  and  higher  at  nierht. 


OUU   QUARTERS,    MARAKSH. 


Page  373. 


LIFE  IN  MARAKSII.  373 

It  may  not  !)(•  out  of  place  to  closcribo  our  quarters. 
They  may  bo  accepted  as  typical  of  the  houses  of  the 
well-to-do  townsmen.  The  entrance-door  led  into  a 
lont^  somewhat  narrow  passage,  which  ran  right  across 
the  side  of  the  house  to  a  small  open  court  beyond, 
which  could  be  used  as  a  stable  for  umles  and  horses. 
Half  way  along  the  passage  a  door  opened  into  anothei 
passage  running  at  right  angles,  and  leading  into  a 
handsome  court,  at  least  fifty  feet  square.  One  side 
of  this  square  was  arched  to  form  a  verandah,  which 
shaded  an  inner  room,  undecorated,  and  without  win- 
dows or  other  means  of  ventilation  than  the  doorway. 

On  the  right  side  from  the  passage  was  a  second 
large  windowless  room,  the  door  being  simply  shaded 
by  projecting  eaves.  The  side  facing  the  lower  veran- 
dah had  also  a  room  of  similar  dimensions  and  style, 
but  better  ornamented.  All  these  rooms  were  long 
and  narrow  with  high  ceilings. 

At  one  corner  of  the  court  a  steep,  awkward  flight 
of  steps  led  to  the  upper  storey.  Here  a  finely-arched 
broad  verandah  i-an  round  three  sides  of  the  house, 
from  which,  however,  opened  only  one  very  large,  well- 
plastered  room,  thirty  feet  long  by  ten  in  breadth. 
At  one  corner  was  a  small  room  with  a  window,  while 
at  the  opposite  was  an  even  smaller  apartment  which 
served  as  a  bathroom.  The  court  aiid  llie  apartments 
described  are  the  master's  special  rooms,  where  he 
might  without  impropriety  receive  mah^  guests,  who 
would  neither  see  nor  be  seen  by  the  inmates  of  the 
harem,   to   whom  due   notice   is  always  given  of   the 


374  MOROCCO. 

approach  of  a  visitor,  so  as  to  enable  them  to  clear 
out  of  the  way.  In  our  house  the  harem  was 
divided  into  two  parts.  The  principal  one  was  situated 
over  the  entrance  passage,  from  w^hich  a  door  gave 
aduiittance  to  a  flight  of  steps.  It  consisted  of  a  suite 
of  three  small  rooms.  The  middle  one  was  lighted 
from  the  ceiling,  and  served  to  transmit  light  to  the 
other  two.  These  three  rooms,  though  small  and 
cramped,  were  exceedingly  handsomely  decorated, 
especially  the  middle  one,  with  its  polygonal  dome  and 
skylight.  Brilliant  colours  and  graceful  stucco  arab- 
esques, brightened  up  and  adorned  every  nook  and 
corner,  and  even  the  doors  were  handsomely  panelled, 
carved,  and  painted.  Every  precaution  was  taken  that 
the  wa^'ward  ladies  should  not  be  tempted  to  stray  by 
anything  they  could  see,  and  still  less  to  let  wandering 
feet  follow  wandering  eyes,  for  the  sole  opening  in  the 
wall  was  firmly  barred  with  iron. 

These  rooms  were  probably  devoted  to  the  use  of 
the  25rincipal  wife,  or  it  may  have  been  a  favourite 
slave.  The  other  division  of  the  harem  or  private 
apartments  lay  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  square  from 
the  entrance-passage.  Here  a  door  led  into  a  small 
secondary  court,  round  which  were  the  kitchen  and 
one  quadrangular  room,  and  an  upper  suite  of  small 
rooms. 

It  need  hardly  be  said  that  the  furniture  of  a 
Moorish  house  is  of  the  simplest.  Such  things  as 
objects  of  art  are  unknown.  Everything  that  is 
agreeable  to  the  eye  is  a  fixture.     Such  are  tessellated 


WnMKN    AT    ponU    OK   THK    H.\Ui:M. 


I'aijt  374. 


LIFE  IN  MARAKSII.  375 

pavements  and  floors;  cool  g-lazod  tile  dados  round 
the  rooms,  mostly  in  black  and  whih^;  handsomely 
carved  and  painted  doors ;  stucco  arabesques  round 
niches  and  doors,  and  gorgeously  coloured  ceilings. 
Where  ventilation  other  than  by  the  doorway  is  desired, 
it  is  provided  for  by  an  open  stucco  frutwork  like  deli- 
cate lace  arranged  in  thrc(^  charming  little  arches  over 
the  door. 

The  house  we  occupied  was  not  permanently  occu- 
pied, but  under  other  circumstances  it  would  have 
had  a  garden  in  the  centre,  with  a  bubbling  fountain 
probably,  and  tile-paved  walks. 

A  gorgeously  coloured  carpet,  one  or  two  mattresses, 
and  several  cushions  form  almost  the  sole  appointments 
of  a  Moorish  house.  There  may  be  a  rude  box  for 
small  articles  and  letters,  one  or  two  candlesticks  or 
more  elaborate  candelabra  for  use  at  night  placed  on 
the  floor,  and  among  the  very  well-to-do  a  European 
clock,  more  ornamental  than  useful ;  but  these  are 
usually  the  sum  of  the  requirements  of  the  Moor. 
Throughout  Morocco  there  is  nothing  more  disappoint- 
ing to  the  traveller  than  this  absence  of  things  beau- 
tiful, whether  for  the  adornment  of  the  person  or 
the  house.  One  naturally  expects  to  find  all  sorts  of 
beautiful  and  quaint  objects,  to  see  picturesque  houses, 
and  even  get  peeps  into  the  most  delightfully  fanciful 
interiors.  That  some  such  things  existed  in  earlier 
days  is  made  every  now  and  then  apjiarent  as  we 
wander  through  the  town  and  assiduously  attend 
auction-sales.      But  to  know  that  an  object  is  beauti- 


376  MOROCCO. 

ful,  that  it  shows  careful  and  loving  workmanship,  and 
reflects  the  graceful  fancy  we  associate  with  things 
Moorish,  is  also  to  know  that  it  is  old.  In  every- 
thing we  see  there  is  evidenced  a  frightful  degeneracy 
in  genuine  workmanship  and  artistic  taste.  To  the 
painter,  the  enduring  colours  of  other  times  are  as 
much  unknown  as  is  his  ancestor's  skill  in  blending 
them  in  effective  scroll-work.  The  stucco  arabesque 
is  equally  becoming  a  thing  of  the  past,  simply  be- 
cause there  is  no  demand  for  it,  and  consequently  the 
woi'kmen  are  dying  out,  with  no  others  educated  to 
replace  them.  The  rugs  and  carpets  reflect  the 
same  degeneracy.  Aniline  dyes  of  gorgeous  hue 
have  almost  entirely  replaced  the  enduring  vegetable 
colours  formerly  employed,  and  with  the  colours  the 
skill  in  effective  and  harmonious  arrangement  is  also 
disappearing.  The  beautiful  glazed  tiles  are  now 
not  made,  except  to  a  small  extent  at  Tetuan ; 
Fez  still  keeps  up  a  certain  reputation  for  coarse 
though  bold  and  effective  pottery  and  beautifully 
worked  cloth  waistbands  for  women  ;  Rabat  for  car- 
pets and  embroideries ;  Mogador  for  brass  trays  and 
silver  ornaments,  and  jNfaraksh  for  various  kinds  of 
leather-work.  At  each  of  these  places  the  tourist  may 
pick  up  a  few  objects  worth  taking  away,  but  even 
then  he  will  find  that  the  best  things  are  old,  whether 
carpets,  daggers,  or  guns. 

There  is  no  difficulty  in  detecting  the  cause  of 
this  degeneracy.  It  is  the  notorious  misgovemment 
which  is  at   the  root  of  this,  as  of  all  the  other  evils 


LIFE  I\  MARAKSII.  377 

whifh  art>  niiiiiiif^  the  Empire.  What  temptation  is 
1  hero  for  any  one  to  set  up  for  liimsdf  a  liandsome 
well-built  house,  when  the  chances  are  that  he  will 
not  be  allowed  to  die  in  it,  and  that  sooner  or  later  it 
will  pass  into  the  hands  of  the  Sultan  or  of  strangers  ? 
As  little  is  he  tempted  to  amass  around  him  things 
beautiful — which  in  his  heart  he  loves — in  a  country 
where  justice  is  unknown  and  security  to  property 
non-existent.  To  show  any  sign  of  luxurious  tastes, 
and  of  wealth  to  gratify  them,  would  only  serve  to 
apprise  the  Government  of  the  fact,  with  the  inevi- 
table result  of  entailing  on  the  owner  a  ruinous  con- 
tribution, or  imprisonment  till  such  time  as  the  authori- 
ties were  satisfied  that  there  was  nothing  more  to  be 
squeezed  out  of  him. 

Then,  against  the  preservation  of  anything  beautiful 
or  artistic,  militates  the  fact  that  there  are  no  here- 
ditary governors  or  Sheiks,  no  powerful  families  who 
might  pass  on  their  treasures  from  generation  to 
generation.  Wealth  of  any  kind  will  never  remain 
two  generations  together  in  the  same  family  before 
the  Sultan  has  .swallowed  everything  in  his  omnivorous 
maw.  Few  ^[oors,  without  having  placed  themselves 
under  ''the  protection"  of  a  European  Government, 
are  ever  allowed  to  die  wealthy.  To  avoid  spoliation, 
the  first  idea  of  any  one — except  the  Jews — who  has 
amassed  some  money  is  to  bury  it.  I'lie  amount  in 
Morocco  of  such  buried  treasure,  of  which  the  secret 
has  been  lost,  must  be  enormous. 

An  even  worse  influence  than  this  svstem  of  whole- 


378  MOROCCO. 

sale  plunder  tends  to  tlie  rapid  deterioration  of  Moorish 
art  and  the  disappearance  of  skilled  workmen.  These 
latter  are  now  becoming  so  rare,  that  the  moment  one 
is  discovered  to  have  greater  capabilities  than  his  com- 
panions, he  is  immediately  impressed  into  the  service 
of  the  Sultan  or  the  governor.  Not,  however,  to  be 
petted  and  honoured  and  made  much  of,  as  was  the 
good  old  fashion,  but  to  be  compelled  to  work  for  little 
more  than  his  bare  livelihood.  I  have  mentioned  two 
instances  of  this  in  connection  with  the  Kaid  of  Gin- 
dafy.  Hundreds  similar  could  easily  be  adduced. 
It  is  the  ruin  of  a  workman  to  get  a  reputation  for 
genius  or  cleverness  in  any  branch.  His  only  way  of 
escape — and  it  is  one  not  unfrequently  adopted — is  to 
botch  his  work  and  subject  himself  to  a  flogging,  and 
eventually  to  dismissal  if  he  persists  in  his  deliberate 
error.  That  is  how  the  descendants  of  the  people  who 
built  the  Alhambra  and  made  their  reign  in  Spain 
glorious  by  their  marvellous  buildings  encourage  and 
foster  art  in  these  days. 

After  this  digression  let  us  resume  the  records  of 
our  life  in  Morocco. 

The  one  great  obstacle  to  our  realising  the  everyday 
life  of  the  Moor,  was  the  sad  fact  that  we  were  bachelors. 
The  Moor  can  in  no  way  imagine  life  on  earth,  still  less 
in  heaven,  without  the  solacing  presence  of  women. 
They  are  his  sole  companions  and  friends  at  home, 
his  dolls  or  toys,  his  entertainers,  servants,  everything 
that  any  one  can  well  be  to  him.  Without  them  he 
can  undertake  no  journey,  and  he  cherishes  them   as 


LIFE  IN  MARAKSII. 


379 


the  applo  of  his  o\o.  Not  that  it  follows  that  he  cares 
much  for  thciii  in  our  sense  of  the  terui.  On  the 
contrary,  ho  may  even  go  so  far  as  to  hate  indivi- 
duals among  them  ;  but  he  nevertheless  cannot  bear 


m 

f..  ..:•:■ 

k,. 

1 

1-  '  >" 

V^fti. 

1 

i 

1 

m 

1 

i 

i 

" 

1 

T 

'^:^'' 

^i^ 
**•*«,/ 

ki^ 

iriNi:it\NT  Mr^uiAN. 


the  tliought  of  others  getting  a  glimpse  of  the  living 
treasure  which  has  become  distasteful  to  himself. 

Failing  this  prime  essential  ol"  a  ^foorish  existence, 
we  had  to  fall  back  for  a  little  varietv  in  our  mono- 


38o  MOROCCO. 

tonous  existence  on  such  public  entertainers  as  could 
be  hired.  Of  these,  none  amused  us  more  than  the 
itinerant  half-Negro  half- Arab  musicians  from  Sus 
and  the  desert.  These  generally  go  about  in  pairs, 
got  up  in  the  most  fantastic  fashion,  with  rags,  skins, 
bands  of  cowries,  and  iron  bells  about  their  legs  and 
ankles.  One  performs  with  a  drum,  the  other  with  a 
curious  species  of  iron  double  cymbals.  Their  antics 
are  of  the  most  absurd  description,  and  sometimes 
irresistibly  comic.  Their  appearance  and  performance, 
however,  had  an  added  interest  to  me  in  bringing 
vividly  to  my  memory  entertainments  of  a  similar 
character  in  the  Sudan,  where  I  had  first  formed  the 
idea  of  visiting  Morocco.  At  other  times  we  brought 
in  a  troupe  of  Jewish  singers  and  dancers,  who  had 
the  reputation  of  being  the  best  of  their  kind  in 
Southern  ]\rorocco.  That  may  have  been  so  ;  but  if  it 
were,  it  said  very  little  for  the  singer's  and  dancer's  art 
in  these  parts.  The  women,  in  frightfully  shrill  voices 
screamed  out  Arab  and  Jewish  songs,  accompanied 
by  violin-grinding  and  tambourines.  One  man  danced 
in  the  Moorish  fashion,  and  that  was  all. 

By  dint  of  such  arts  as  one  may  employ  in  Morocco, 
we  obtained  a  coveted  invitation  to  the  house  of  a 
]\roor.  Nt^edless  to  say  he  was  one  of  lax  morals, 
though  otherwise  of  firm  religious  principle  ;  that  is 
to  say,  he  would,  for  a  consideration,  hand  over  the 
key  of  the  house  in  which  was  his  wife  and  daughter 
to  another,  though  he  would  have  thought  twice  about 
eating  forbidden  meats.      In  our  case,  we  wanted  to 


LIFE  IN  MARAKSII.  381 

see  the  interior  of  an  inhabited  Moorish  house,  and  if 
possible  get  a  photo  of  some  Moorish  women,  one  of 
the  most  difficult  things  to  obtain  in  these  parts. 

Of  course  we  had  to  go  in  disguise,  as  the  idea 
of  allowing  a  Christian  into  a  Mohammedan  household 
would  have  been  too  horrifying  a  scandal,  even  for 
the  gentleman  in  question,  and,  if  discovered,  would 
have  been  followed  by  very  serious  consequences  to 
both  parties. 

Under  the  guidance  of  our  Gibraltarian  friend 
Bonich,  we  started  on  our  adventure  some  time  after 
mid-day,  when  the  excessive  heat  had  driven  every  one 
within  doors.  We  did  what  we  could  to  adopt  the 
Moorish  stride  of  a  man  of  substance,  and  with  ajD- 
parent  success,  for  no  one  took  any  notice  of  us.  I 
soon,  however,  had  something  else  to  think  of  than 
what  people  were  thinking  of  us,  for  the  slippers  I 
had  on  began  to  chafe  my  sockless  feet,  and  take, 
with  the  assistance  of  the  fine  gritty  sand  which 
got  plentifully  inside,  the  skin  from  my  toes  and 
instep.  If  my  feet  had  been  rubbed  continuously 
with  sandpaper,  as  they  were  indeed  with  sanded 
leather,  I  could  not  have  been  more  painfully  flayed. 
Under  these  circumstances,  dignified  easy  motion  was 
out  of  the  question,  while  the  skinning  of  the  toes 
made  the  necessary  pressure  to  retain  possession  of 
the  slippers  extremely  difficult.  My  walk  became 
an  awkward  shuffle,  and  more  than  once  my  slippers 
came  off.  But  for  the  fact  that  there  was  hardly 
a  soul  in  the   broiling    streets,   we  would    have  been 


382  MOROCCO. 

detected  and  probably  followed.  At  last  we  turned 
to  the  right  and  entered  a  blind  alley,  at  the  end  of 
which  was  a  door  where  Bonich  knocked.  A  woman's 
voice  replied  ;  the  next  moment  the  door  was  opened, 
and  with  u'uilty  haste  we  slipped  inside,  turning  round 
as  we  did  so  to  see  that  we  were  not  observed. 

We  now  found  ourselves  in  a  dark  passage,  with 
an  unveiled  woman  beside  us.  Of  course,  in  a  well- 
regulated  household  no  woman  would  have  opened  the 
door,  and  the  announced  approach  of  a  male  visitor 
would  have  been  followed  by  the  flight  of  the  women 
to  their  own  sanctums.  We  were  first  conducted  into 
a  small  garden  enclosed  by  walls  and  shaded  by  an 
overarching  vine  and  a  large  fig-tree.  In  this  de- 
liciously  cool  retreat  mattresses  and  cushions  were 
laid  for  our  comfort,  and  with  no  small  delight  I 
divested  myself  of  the  most  cumbersome  of  my 
Moorish  garments,  and  especially  of  my  slippers. 
The  woman  who  had  let  us  in,  seeing  the  pitiful  condi- 
tion of  my  feet,  hastened  to  bring  water  to  wash  them. 
The  master  of  the  house  now  arrived,  a  villainous- 
looking  fellow  of  fluent  speech,  plentifully  garnished 
with  the  name  of  Allah  and  phrases  from  the  Koran. 
While  we  exchanged  the  courtesies  of  life  with  this 
detestable  fellow,  his  two  wives,  one  of  about  thirty  and 
the  other  about  thirty-five,  waited  on  us.  They  brought 
us  first  fruit  and  melons,  then  bread  and  honey,  fol- 
lowed by  a  taje/t  of  stewed  beef  in  rancid  butter.  A 
little  of  each  course  went  a  long  way  in  satisfying  our 
appetite  ;   no  more,  in  fact,  than  politeness  demanded. 


LIFE  IN  MARAKSIL  383 

Tliu  iiiid-diiy  uu'ul  over,  the  iiuisttT  ot"  the  house 
retired  to  say  his  ])rayi'rs,  and  his  daughter  arrived 
res])lt'ndeMt  in  her  best  clothes.  She  wore  a  kaftan  of 
rich  yellow  brocade,  partially  veiled  by  an  upper  gar- 
ment of  fine  muslin.  Her  dress  was  drawn  in  at  the 
waist  ])y  an  embroidered  belt.  Iler  black  hair,  covered 
witli  a  brilliant  crimson  silk  handkerchief,  was  gathered 
into  two  plaits  tied  together  at  the  ends  and  hanging 
down  the  back.  Heavy  silver  wristlets  encircled  her 
arms,  and  strings  of  beads  her  neck.  The  adorn- 
ment of  her  person  was  com])leted  with  henna  tints 
on  her  hands  and  feet,  black-painted  eyelashes  and 
eyebrows,  and  tattooed  dots  and  squares  on  the  middle 
line  of  her  brow  and  chin  and  on  her  arms.  Her 
face  was  broad  across  the  cheekbones,  which  were 
[)rominent,  and  her  mouth  was  somewhat  large,  dis- 
playing a  magnificent  set  of  white  teeth.  Her  great 
attraction,  however,  were  her  almond-shaped  eyes  of 
the  most  brilliant  black.  These  were  wide  apart,  and 
had  glossy,  luxuriant  eyelashes.  Upon  the  whole, 
however,  she  could  not  be  termed  handsome  or  pretty, 
though  her  figure,  as  far  as  we  could  judge,  seemed 
well-made,  and  certainly  the  feet  and  hands  of  this 
Moorish  damsel  of  fifteen  or  sixteen  were  all  that 
could  be  desired  in  size  and  shape. 

When  on  this  subject  of  women,  I  may  take  occa- 
sion to  remark  that,  as  far  as  we  got  ojiportunities  for 
judging — and  these  were  strictly  limited — the  Moorish 
ladit'S  were  not  remarkable  for  their  beauty.  We 
were   apt  to  accpiire   erroneous  notions  on   this  point 


384  MOROCCO. 

from  ouly  .seeing  their  eyes,  and  these  were  frequently 
quite  fascinating' ;  but  more  than  once,  on  seeing  our 
unconcealed  admiration,  and  no  Moor  being  nigh,  our 
expectations  of  seeing  a  beautiful  face  to  match  were 
belied  on  the  haik  being  coquettishly  drawn  aside,  and 
withered  features  and  general  ugliness  displayed.  Of 
course  we  only  got  glimpses  of  the  faces  of  the  older 
women,  and  those  of  the  very  poor  and  the  loose. 
Beauty  naturally  gravitated  into  the  harems  of  the 
wealthy,  from  which  it  never  came  out  except  by 
night,  so  that  we  had  no  means  of  acquiring  correct 
notions  on  the  subject.  My  observations,  however, 
such  as  they  are,  make  me  believe  that  young  women 
from  fourteen  to  twenty-five  years  of  age  are  exceed- 
ingly well-proportioned,  and  sometimes  very  beautiful. 
After  that  age,  figure  and  beauty  alike  disappear  with 
great  rajoidity. 

The  dress  of  the  women  is  almost  identical  in  make 
with  that  of  the  men,  even  to  the  trousers.  They 
employ,  however,  much  more  expensive  materials — 
gorgeous  brocades,  silks,  &c.,  generally  covered  by  a 
gauzy  stuff.  The  wealthy  have  exceedingly  heavy 
hazavis,  or  waistbands,  worked  in  silk  in  the  most 
beautiful  manner,  and  varying  in  price  from  eight 
to  two  hundred  dollars.  The  haik,  in  which  they 
are  shrouded  when  they  go  out  of  doors,  is  nothing 
more  nor  less  than  a  very  large  woollen  blanket, 
heavier  than  any  used  in  England.  At  SaSi  and 
Mogador  no  face-cloth  is  used,  and  absolutely  no- 
thing but  one  eye  is  shown.     In  Morocco  generally. 


LIFE  IN  MARAKSII.  385 

a  fact'-clotli  of  li<(lit  open  material  is  worn,  and  tho 
haik  is  drawn  round  by  the  chin  and  held  there  by 
the  hand.  At  Amsmiz  the  haik  is  held  by  both  hands 
in  such  a  way  as  to  form  a  narrow  slit  quite  a  foot 
long.  This  nnist  be  the  most  troublesome  of  all  tho 
ways  of  wearing  the  cumbersome  garment.  The  shoes 
of  the  women  are  distinguished  from  those  of  the 
men  by  being  red  in  colour,  and  frequently  daintily 
embroidered. 

This  habit  of  always  having  to  think  of  hiding  the 
face  has  aroused  the  curious  feeling  among  them  that 
it  is  more  indecent  to  show  it  to  a  stranger  than  any 
other  part  of  the  body.  In  the  hot  weather  it  was  no 
uncommon  thing  to  see  women  going  along  the  streets 
with  their  faces  jealously  veiled,  and  their  breasts  more 
or  less  exposed. 

Though  the  women  we  now  saw  before  us  were  by 
no  moans  shy,  and  could  make  use  of  their  channs 
with  all  the  consummate  skill  of  a  Frenchwoman,  we 
soon  got  tired  of  trying  to  keep  up  conversation.  We 
hastened  thereupon  to  take  some  photos  of  them,  no 
easy  task,  for  they  thought  it  a  terrible  sin  to  liave 
their  ])ortraits  taken. 

This  done,  we  would  willingly  have  bolted;  but 
that  was  impossible,  for  we  had  to  await  the  arrival 
of  a  servant  to  smuggle  away  the  apparatus,  and — 
I  blush  to  mention  it — to  bring  me  a  pair  of  socks, 
witliout  which  1  could  not  venture  to  trust  my  feet 
in  Moorish  slippers  again.  While  we  waited,  we  ex~ 
]ilored  one   or  two  of  the   romns   of  the   house,   only 

2  15 


386  MOROCCO. 

to  find  it  absolutely  devoid  of  all  furniture  other  than 
rugs,  mattresses,  and  cushions.  The  walls  were  plainly 
whitewashed.      Everything  was  clean  and  neat. 

Needless  to  say,  my  socks  drew  the  attention  of 
passers-by  and  revealed  our  identity ;  but  we  did  not 
now  care,  as  we  were  on  our  way  to  our  own  quarters. 

In  pursuance  of  our  design  to  ' '  do "  Morocco  as 
thoroughly  as  possible,  we  resolved  to  have  "  a  wash 
and  brush  up  "  in  the  native  fashion.  The  hammum 
in  Morocco,  as  in  all  Mohammedan  countries,  is  an 
institution.  Every  quarter  of  Maraksh  has  one  or 
more  of  them. 

There  was  one  great  obstacle  to  our  carrying  out 
our  wishes.  The  hammum  was  sacred  to  the  faithful, 
and  no  Christian  had  ever  been  known  to  desecrate 
the  hallowed  precincts.  That  of  course  was  the  more 
reason  for  going ;  for  what  else  did  we  travel  but 
to  do  and  see  things  that  other  people  had  not  done 
and  seen.  Our  hope  lay  in  this,  that  after  the  Acha, 
or  supper-prayers  at  9  P.m.,  the  baths  are  reserved  for 
families,  and  those  who  can  afford  to  take  them  for  the 
night  and  bring  with  them  their  own  servants,  &c. 

We  accordingly  dispatched  our  most  intelligent  and 
fluent  liar  of  a  servant  with  varte-hlanvlic  to  exercise 
his  special  talents  to  secure  the  hammum  for  our  use, 
of  course  strictly  hiding  our  identity  with  anything 
infidel.  To  our  delight  he  succeeded  in  arranging  the 
matter.  Needless  to  say,  it  was  as  necessary  to  go 
in  disguise  to  the  hammum  as  when  visiting  our 
Moorish  friend. 


LIFE  IN  MARAKSII. 


3^7 


After  the  call  to  prayers  had  resounded  over  the 
city,  we  started  off,  accompanied  by  most  of  oui*  men, 
all  in  a  <rreaf  funk,  and  very  reluctant  to  go, — no  one 
more   so   than  Assor,   who,  to  the  fear  of  detection, 


IN  KisauiSE. 


added  all  the  iiiiaLj'innry  liorrors  of  a  t  Iioituil!']!  wasliino- 
an  operation  of  which  he  had  had  no  practical  expe- 
rience in  his  whole  lifetime. 


388  MOROCCO. 

We  had  Imrely  left  our  ([iiarters  before  we  liad 
nearly  spoiled  all.  Each,  in  his  absurd  eagerness  to 
see  that  the  other  looked  the  Moor,  broke  more  than 
once  into  audible  English  speech,  till  energetic  tugs 
from  the  men  brought  him  once  more  to  his  senses. 
These  latter  did  their  best  to  surround  us  and  ward  off 
inspection,  but  the  narrowness  of  the  streets  and  the 
numbers  of  people  still  moving  about  made  that  next 
to  impossible.  At  one  place  an  unmistakable  reference 
to  Christians  was  made.  All  that  we  could  do  was  to 
take  no  notice  and  hurry  on,  quite  unaware  whether 
we  were  being  followed  or  not.  It  seemed  not,  how- 
ever, as  we  reached  the  door  of  the  hammum  without 
obstruction  or  disturbance.  Here  we  were  again  nearly 
caught ;  for  thinking  that  the  baths  were  deserted,  we 
were  about  to  bolt  inside  the  moment  the  door  was 
opened,  when  we  found  ourselves  face  to  face  with 
several  bathers  carrying  lanterns.  Instinctively  we 
turned  our  backs,  and  our  men  crowded  round  us  and 
kept  up  a  continuous  gabble  till  the  enemy  passed  out. 
There  had  clearly  been  mismanagement  somewhere,  for 
we  soon  discovered  that  some  people  were  still  left  in 
the  hammum.  To  escape  these,  we  were  huddled  into 
a  small  cellar,  used  apparently  as  a  refuse  bin,  and 
there,  in  complete  darkness,  and  hardly  daring  to 
breathe,  we  were  kept  for  several  minutes,  till  it  was 
quite  certain  every  one  had  left. 

We  were  now  ushered  through  a  badly-formed  pas- 
sage and  into  a  filthy  vaulted  chamber  with  square 
pillars.      We   had    only   a   couple   of   candles  to  light 


LIFE  IN  MARAKSII.  389 

up  the  place.  What  wo  did  contrive  to  see  hardly 
realised  our  idea  of  an  Oriental  batb,  with  its  couches 
and  luxurious  fittiiiijfs.  Few  European  cellars  would 
compete  with  the  black  and  repulsive  chamber  which 
served  as  an  undressing  and  cooling-  room.  It  was 
not  even  whitewashrd,  and  a  damp,  mouldy,  flea-popu- 
lated straw  mat  was  all  there  was  to  represent  the  soft 
cushions  and  comfortable  divans  we  had  looked  for- 
ward to.  A  singularly  horrible  smell  assailed  our 
nostrils  too,  instead  of  sweet  perfume  and  incense,  so 
that  everything  was  in  harmony.  Though  disappointed, 
we  were  in  too  high  spirits  to  be  very  much  put  out. 
As  we  tried  to  pierce  the  gloom,  and  remarked  the 
dimly-seen  Hitting  naked  figures  of  our  tawny  or 
coi)j)er-coloured  attendants,  and  heard  their  half-sup- 
pressed whispers,  we  concluded  that  this  was  some- 
thing to  be  seen  uiicc  in  one's  life. 

AVhile  we  compared  our  own  appearance  with  that 
of  our  men,  and  noted  our  general  surroundings,  we 
began  to  picture  ourselves  as  white  captives  in  a 
Moorish  dungeon,  and  about  to  be  put  to  the  torture, 
which  might  consist  in  being  boiled,  to  judge  from  the 
steam  which  filled  the  room.  Assor  looked  very  much 
as  if  he  felt  the  awfulness  of  his  position,  and  indeed  it 
was  a  terrible  ordeal  he  had  to  face,  a  whole  lifetime's 
washing  at  once.  How  terrible  too  for  the  operator, 
we  thought  !  Encouraging  each  other  with  jokes,  as 
of  men  who  knew  how  to  die,  we  half  pu.shed,  half 
dragged  the  interpreter  to  his  fate,  the  Moors  grinning 
with  delight  at  the  prospect  of  scrubbing  him.      From 


390  MOROCCO. 

ilio  black  lioK^  wc  had  iiudressed  in  wo  groped 
our  way,  with  the  aid  of  a  single  candle,  into  a 
second  warnuT  chaiiil)('r  full  of  steam,  our  men  fol- 
lowing with  wooden  pails.  This  was  more  gloomy, 
more  dungeon-like  than  the  other  even,  and  poor 
Assor  groaned  aloud.  After  encouraging  him  with 
an  account  of  what  was  still  in  store  for  him,  we 
penetrated  to  another  and  the  warmest  chamber,  full 
of  steam  like  the  others.  This  inner  sanctum  was  an 
oblong  vaulted  room  which  had  never  been  plastered. 
At  one  side  was  a  tap  for  drawing  the  necessary  hot 
water  from  the  boilers  on  the  other  side  of  the  wall. 
There  was  no  operating  table,  and  there  was  nothing 
for  it  but  to  lie  down  on  the  smoothly  cemented  floor. 
The  temperature,  as  far  I  could  judge,  would  be  about 
I  50°.  Our  cook  turned  out  to  be  a  skilled  shampooer, 
and  he  kneaded  and  rubbed,  pushed  and  pulled,  sat 
upon  us,  and  rolled  and  tumbled  us  about  with  all  the 
style  of  an  old  hammum  hand.  He  failed  not  to  give 
us  a  professional  slap  to  mark  the  end  of  any  particular 
operation. 

The  great  afiair  of  the  evening,  however,  was  the 
shampooing  of  Assor.  Everybody  was  anxious  to  lend 
a  hand,  we,  because  for  the  moment  he  represented  all 
Moorish  Jews  and  their  Mellahs,  and  our  men  because 
they  saw  he  was  frightened,  and  that  here  was  an 
opportunity  of  paying  oif  old  scores  long  accumulating 
against  the  race  of  Israel.  Seeing  his  protests  to  be 
in  vain,  he  submitted  to  his  fate  on  our  promising  to 
give  him  the  treatment  of  a  baby.      Needless  to  say, 


LI  IE  L\  MARAKSII.  391 

our  (.K'li^'htecl  followtTs  pounced  upon  him  right  '^\fc- 
fiiUy,  with  tlie  most  satisfactory  results.  If  ever  a 
man  knew  what  it  was  to  put  off  the  "old  man"  in 
the  physical  sense,  that  individual  was  David  Assor, 
who  at  the  age  of  forty-five  got  his  first  and  probably 
his  last  Turkish  bath. 

On  our  return  to  the  dressing  and  cooling  room,  the 
odour  which  had  assailed  our  nostrils  on  entrance 
cauie  upon  us  more  overpoweringly  than  ever.  A 
hasty  examination  revealed  to  us  a  most  horrible  open 
sewer.  Sickened  by  both  sight  and  smell,  and  heed- 
less of  possible  colds,  we  hurried  on  the  most  necessary 
of  our  clothes  and  fled  from  the  place. 

The  night  was  finished  off  Ijy  an  exhibition  of 
Moorish  dancing.  The  dancers  being  women,  they 
had  to  be  smuggled  in  disguised  in  men's  jcUahias, 
otherwise  they  would  have  been  watched  and  cap- 
tured by  the  Kaid's  soldiers.  For  the  same  reason  it 
was  necessary  to  bring  them  at  night. 

The  dancing-women  were  introduced  with  a  great 
air  of  caution  and  mystery,  and  showed  much  bashful- 
ness  in  taking  off  their  Jiailcs  and  exhibiting  their 
mature  charms  to  infidel  eyes.  Finding,  however, 
that  we  were  not  exactly  ogres,  and  warming  under 
plentiful  libations  of  tea,  they  were  soon  quite  at  their 
ease.  By  and  Ine  a  wicked-looking  wall-eyed  indi- 
vidual who  accompanied  them  strung  up  his  native 
guitar  or  ijimhcnj ;  one  of  our  own  men  tapped  on  a 
brass  tray,  while  the  others  kept  time  by  clapping 
their  hands.      Thus  invited   to  foot  it   on  the  carpet, 


392  MOROCCO. 

one  of  the  dancers  stood  up  and  circled  round  once 
or  twice,  accentuating  the  measure  with  her  heel  as 
she  glided  round.  All  at  once  she  stopped  and  gave 
a  shaqD  stamp  with  one  foot.  Next  moment  both 
feet  were  at  work,  much  as  if  she  had  found  herself 
on  a  hot  plate  from  which  she  could  not  escape.  This 
vertical  rhythmical  motion  next  developed  into  a  sort 
of  shake  up  of  the  whole  body,  every  muscle  being 
brought  into  play.  The  movement  became  faster  and 
faster,  till  suddenly  a  climax  was  reached.  The  all- 
round  and  up-and-down  motion  ceased,  and  she  essayed 
with  a  wriggle  to  tie  her  legs  in  a  knot  before  finally 
plumping  down  on  one  knee  before  us  to  receive  the 
expected  largesse. 

The  other  girls  next  showed  their  skill,  growing 
more  lively  and  animated  as  they  became  accustomed 
to  our  unwonted  presence,  and  the  one-eyed  Cyclops 
broke  into  a  song  on  the  pleasures  of  love,  our  men 
assisting  in  the  chorus.  The  feat  of  the  evening, 
however,  was  to  load  a  brass  tray  with  all  the  acces- 
sories of  tea-drinking,  including  the  filled-up  cups, 
poise  it  on  the  head,  and  then  dance  as  before  without 
spilling  a  drop  of  tea. 

Upon  the  whole,  the  performance  was  neither  par- 
ticularly interesting  nor  graceful.  1'he  girls  were  by 
no  means  good-looking,  and  we  were  glad  to  get  rid 
of  them  after  suitablv  rewardinsr  them. 


(     393     ) 


CHAPTEU  XXVI. 

THE  AID-EL-KEBIR. 

DuKiN(J  our  stay  we  had  the  good  fortune  to  see  the 
celebration  of  the  "  Aid-el-Kebir,''  or  Gi*eat  Feast, 
which  marks  the  close  of  the  ceremonies  connected 
with  the  pilgrimage  to  Mecca.  Following  the  prac- 
tice of  the  whole  Mohammedan  world,  as  well  as  of 
the  actual  ])ilgrims  in  the  valley  of  Miua,  every  Moor 
who  can  aflbrd  it  sacrifices  a  sheep,  a  goat,  or  a  cow, 
dresses  himself  in  his  best,  and  holds  high  holiday. 

In  Maraksh  the  celebration  of  the  day  is  made  the 
occasion  of  a  great  state  function,  and  the  gathering  of 
all  the  Kaids  of  Southern  Morocco  to  do  homage  to 
their  liege  lord  the  Sultan,  and  fill  his  treasures  and 
the  coffers  of  his  ministers  with  so-called  presents 
of  blood  and  tear-stained  dollars.  The  Sultan  beingr 
absent  at  ^lequinez,  his  place  was  taken  by  the  Viceroy, 
Mulai  Otlnuan. 

The  state  function  was  to  take  place  outside  the 
town,  and  we  resolved  to  attend  it,  though  we  knew 
that  there  would  be  no  small  danger  of  a  fanatical 
outbreak  at  our  intrusion  upon  the  religious  cere- 
monies. 


394 


MOROCCO. 


We  found  the  streets  pi'esentiiig  an  unusually  ani- 
mated aspect,  with  their  thronging  thousands  all  clean- 
shaved  and  in  refurbished  or  new  dresses.  The  shops 
were  shut,  and  only  sweetmeat  and  cake  sellers  plied 
their  trade,  though  everywhere  the  tinkle  of  the  dis- 
tinctive bell  of  the  water-seller  could  be  heard,  and 
now  and  then  he  could  be  seen  bending  under  his 
large  goat-skin  bag,  from  which   he   dispensed  the  re- 


W^ 


WATER   CARRIER. 


quired  refresher.  The  great  mass  of  the  crowd  were 
mounted  on  donkeys,  mules,  or  horses,  the  last  mostly 
ridden  by  soldiers  hurrying  to  collect  under  the  banner 
of  their  respective  Kaids. 

Among  others,  we  were  interested  in  seeing  the 
soldier  who  had  prevented  my  finishing  the  ascent  of 
the  southern  range  of  the  valley  of  Gindafy.      He,  on 


THE  AID-EL-KEBIR.  395 

his  piirt,  on  discuverin^  us,  drove  his  liu<i;e  spurs  into 
his  liorse's  riljs  and  clinrged  us  at  fidl  (,^all«)p.  In  the 
course  of  his  wild  career  through  tlu)  stampeding 
crowd,  he  screamed  out  something  about  Allah,  threw 
his  gun  up  in  tlie  air,  caught  it  again,  and  turning 
round  in  his  saddle,  fired  at  an  imaginary  enemy,  and 
then,  amidst  a  cloud  of  dust,  pulled  up  his  horse  under 
our  noses. 

Our  way  to  the  meeting-ground  lay  through  the 
palace  square,  and  our  hopes  of  seeing  something 
noteworthy  rose  as  we  saw  squadron  after  squadron 
of  wildly  picturesque  horsemen  gallop  up  to  the  chief 
gate  of  the  palace  to  salute  the  Viceroy  before  pro- 
ceeding to  their  posts. 

We  were  soon  outside  the  walls  of  the  town.  Two 
miles  beyond  the  gate,  and  close  to  the  Agdel  garden, 
were  massed  a  great  concourse  of  horsemen  and  people 
on  foot.  The  horsemen  mostly  stood  in  line,  but  we 
could  also  see  parties  gallo{)ing  along  furiously,  firing 
volleys  while  at  full  speed. 

In  a  few  minutes  we  neared  the  crowd  close  to  the 
gate  of  the  garden,  from  which  the  Viceroy  was  to 
appear.  From  this  point  far  out  into  the  plain  were 
ranged  two  lines  of  horsemen  a  hundred  yards  apart. 
At  the  farther  end  could  be  seen  some  kind  of  erec- 
tion, round  which  the  pedestrians  and  townspeople  were 
gathered  in  their  thousands. 

Pending  the  arrival  of  the  Viceroy,  the  various  par- 
ties showed  their  skill  in  horsemanship  and  the  use 
of  arms   by  engaging  in  lub-cl-hanul  or   powder-play, 


396  MOROCCO. 

the  one  sight  in  Morocco  of  which  the  traveller  never 
tires. 

For  a  time  we  stood  and  watched  this  strikingly 
picturesque  spectacle.  By  and  bye  the  gate  of  the 
garden  opened  and  a  party  of  cavalry  galloped  out. 
Behind  these  came  two  magnificent  horses,  all  fully 
caparisoned  and  led  by  grooms.  The  next  to  appear 
was  a  fine-looking  venerable  old  Moor,  with  a  beauti- 
ful white  beard,  a  huge  turban,  and  voluminous  haik, 
and  enveloped  besides  in  a  creamy-coloured  burnous, 
the  hood  of  which  covered  his  turban,  while  the  skirts 
hung  down  over  his  feet.  This  was  the  Vicerov,  ridingr 
on  horseback,  surrounded  by  grooms  on  foot  and  men 
who  flicked  long  cloths  in  the  air  to  keep  the  flies  at  a 
distance  from  his  regal  person. 

It  now  became  necessary  that  we  should  proceed 
to  the  other  end  of  the  lines  if  we  wanted  to  see  the 
ceremony.  AVith  the  cool,  calculated  impudence  w^hich 
does  marvels  in  such  a  country  as  Morocco,  we  started 
off  just  ahead  of  the  Viceroy,  and  pranced  along  the 
route  kept  open  and  guarded  for  him.  We  heard 
no  sound,  but  we  were  none  the  less  aware  that 
from  both  sides,  before  and  behind,  a  terrific  volley  of 
maledictions  were  hurled  at  us.  No  man,  however, 
presumed  to  stop  our  course  or  turn  us  aside,  and, 
otherwise  unmolested,  we  reached  the  end  of  the 
lines  and  mingled  in  the  deep  circle  of  townspeople. 

The  erection  we  had  I'emarked  from  the  other  end 
we  could  now  see  to  have  a  striking  resemblance  to 
the  gaudy  hoardings  of  a  shooting-gallery  at  a  country 


Tlin  AID-EL-KEBIR.  397 

fair.  Its  o])ject  was  of  a  more  sacred  nature,  however. 
On  til  is  occasion  it  had  to  do  duty  for  a  mosque,  and 
there  we  could  see  the  painted  imitation  of  the  JMihrab  or 
prayer-niche,  indicating  the  "  Point  of  Adoration,"  the 
direction  of  the  sacred  city  of  Mecca.  There  also  was 
a  pulpit  for  tlie  reader  and  expounder  of  the  Koran. 
In  front  of  the  gaudily-coloured  hoarding  was  spread 
a  considerable  area  of  matting  for  the  comfort  and 
cleanliness  of  those  about  to  engage  in  the  reliofious 
exercises  of  the  occasion.  In  dignified  procession  the 
Viceroy  now  moved  towards  the  extemporised  mosque. 
Arrived  at  the  edge  of  the  mat,  he  dismounted,  took 
off  his  slippers,  and  marched  across  to  the  Mihrab. 
Those  of  the  f'aitliful  who  were  not  soldiers  hurriedly 
ran  to  take  places.  Barely  had  the  Viceroy  reached 
the  prayer-niche  when  the  call  to  prayer  rang  out  sharp 
and  clear  on  the  fresh  morning  air,  every  guttural  and 
svllable  clearlv  enunciated  and  dwelt  on  linsferinsflv, 
musically,  and  lovingly.  For  the  moment  the  gallop- 
ing of  horses  and  the  thundering  volleys  ceased,  the 
din  of  the  talking  thousands  was  hushed,  and  hardly  a 
sound  broke  in  upon  the  impressiveness  of  the  half- 
chanted  call  to  all  true  believers  to  come  to  prayer. 

Never  before  had  I  looked  upon  a  more  interest- 
ing spectacle,  to  south  and  east  for  over  thirty  miles 
spread  the  monotonous  expanse  of  the  Morocco  ]ilain, 
with  something  of  the  grandeur  of  the  boundless  sea. 
Beyond  rose  the  dark  towering  range  of  the  Atlas, 
half  veiled  by  the  summer's  haze,  which  cast  a  weird 
glamour    over    the    mountain   heights.      Behind    were 


398  MOROCCO. 

the  fort-studded  city  walls,  eucircling  date  groves  and 
gardens,  the  domes  and  towers  of  mosques,  and  flat- 
roofed  red  houses.  Around  us  pressed  the  thronging 
thousands  of  the  city  and  surrounding  plain — Arab  and 
Moor,  Shellach  and  Negro,  all  were  there.  Almost 
every  one  was  enveloped  in  a  white  robe  and  a 
turban,  only  the  boys  and  children  adding  bits  of 
colour  in  their  crimson  or  yellow  kaftans,  and  helping 
to  make  the  crowd  less  ghost-like.  The  scene  was 
completed  b}'  the  long  lines  of  horsemen,  sitting 
statuesque,  their  guns  resting  on  their  saddles,  and 
inclining  forward  at  a  slight  angle,  and  by  the  crowd 
of  courtiers  and  well-to-do  officials  and  townsmen  who 
squatted  on  the  mat,  all  iu  snow-white  raiment,  save 
for  the  high-peaked  fez  which  distinguished  the  mili- 
tary men.  We  had  hardly  well  noted  the  elements 
of  the  spectacle  when  the  call  to  prayer  ended  with  a 
long-drawn  dying  cadence. 

Next  moment  the  Viceroy  rose  from  his  squatting 
posture,  and,  like  machines  moved  by  a  common  im- 
pulse, the  devout  crowd  who  surrounded  him  followed 
his  example.  He  it  was  who  led  the  prayer.  As 
every  one  muttered  in  unison,  there  were  bendings  of 
back  and  knee ;  foreheads  were  pressed  to  the  ground, 
bodies  were  swayed  backwards  and  forwards,  and  faces 
turned  slightly  upwards  with  an  air  of  absorption. 
Submission  to  God's  will,  humiliation  before  His  great- 
ness, depi'ecation  of  His  wrath,  supplication  for  His 
continued  long-suffering  and  mercy — praise — thanks- 
giving— all  wei'c  alike  expressed  iu  word  and  action  ; 


TIIF.  AID-EL-KEBIR.  399 

and  still  in  the  silent  intervals  of  devotion  one  couUl 
hear  tlie  reverberating  volleys  of  troops  of  soldiers,  and 
on  turning  round,  could  see  clouds  of  dust  and  pale 
blue  smoke,  from  the  midst  of  which  broke  a  wild  array 
of  galloping  horses  and  liaiks  floating  like  white  stan- 
dards in  the  breeze. 

What  most  surprised  us  while  we  stood  looking  on 
the  faitliful  at  their  devotions  was  the  equanimity 
with  wliich  our  desecrating  presence  was  received. 
We  had  come  quite  prepared  to  be  driven  away,  and 
yet  no  one  molested  us,  beyond  dinning  in  our  ears 
the  customary  curses,  which  familiarity  had  led  us  to 
treat  with  contempt. 

At  the  end  of  the  prayers  the  congregation  once 
more  sat  down  "  all  of  a  heap,"  looking  very  mucli 
like  bundles  of  clothes  capped  by  conical  hoods.  A 
(olh,  or  learned  man,  now  entered  the  pulpit  and 
commenced  reading  from  the  Koran  a  lesson  f(.>r  the 
day. 

Meanwhile  the  Kaids  with  their  followers  had  broken 
up  the  lines,  and  were  massing  themselves  one  behind 
the  other  in  order  of  precedence,  forming  quite  a  small 
army  of  cavalry.  This  rearrangement  had  hardly  been 
completed  when  the  reading  linished,  and  every  one 
liurriedly  got  up,  sought  his  slippers,  and  hurried  to 
his  horse  or  mule. 

We  now  pushed  forward  to  see  the  next  develop- 
ment of  events.  This  was  the  cutting  of  the  throats 
of  several  sheep,  under  the  superintendence  of  the 
\''iceroy.      For  the   lower  classes  of  the  city  this  is  the 


400  MOROCCO. 

great  event  of  the  day,  it  being  made  the  occasion  ot 
a  reniarkaLlo  competition.  A  prize  in  money  is  offered 
to  the  man  wlio,  on  the  sheep's  throat  being  cut,  picks 
up  the  animal  in  his  arms,  and,  mounted  on  a  mule, 
first  reaches  the  palace  door  with  the  sheep  still 
alive.  To  do  this,  of  course,  he  has  to  grasp  the 
sheep's  throat  in  such  a  way  as  to  stop  the  effusion  of 
blood  while  still  allowing  it  to  breathe.  The  throat- 
cutting  itself  we  did  not  witness,  but  from  out  the  centre 
of  the  excited  crowd  we  saw  some  twenty  men  on  mules 
riding  away  as  if  for  dear  life,  screaming  and  whack- 
ing their  animals  the  while.  Among  these,  only  some 
two  or  three  carried  sheep,  the  rest  were  friends 
anxix)us  to  assist  and  encourage  those  who  competed. 
After  this  party  went  helter-skelter  the  whole  donkey- 
riding  costermongerdom  of  Maraksh.  In  a  twinkling 
we  were  left  standing  almost  alone.  The  Viceroy  had 
mounted  and  moved  some  distance  on  the  way  towards 
the  Kaids,  and  there  stopped.  Next  moment  the  first 
double  line  of  horsemen  trotted  towards  him,  the  Kaid 
and  his  standard-bearer  in  the  centre.  Arrived  within 
five  yards  of  where  he  stood,  a  chamberlain  or  master  of 
ceremonies  demanded  the  name  of  their  tribe  or  pro- 
vince and  of  their  Kaid,  and  proclaimed  the  same  to 
the  Viceroy,  who  throughout  what  followed  spoke  not 
one  word,  but  sat  with  his  hands  in  the  Mussulman 
attitude  of  prayer.  The  chamberlain,  speaking  for  his 
master,  now  said,  "  The  Lord  help  you,"  to  which, 
with  one  voice  and  bending  low,  the  right  hand  on 
the    breast,  the    Kaid    and    his    men    shouted,    "  May 


77//:  AlD-EL-KElilR.  401 

Allah  i)i-eservo  our  imisler's  lilb."  With  almost  no 
interval  the  chainberliiin  next  cried,  "  You  are  wel- 
come to  town,"  to  which,  with  the  same  pantomime, 
they  answered  as  before,  "  May  Allah  preserve 
our  Master's  life."  "  May  you  enjoy  the  holiday," 
was  the  next  observation,  which  was  followed  by 
the  same  reply.  Finally  the  Kaid  was  dismissed 
with,  "  Allah  leave  you  in  peace,"  to  which  for  the 
fourth  time  he  and  his  people  answered,  "  May  Allah 
l)reserve  onr  master's  life,"  as  they  faced  to  the 
left  and  I'odc  off  the  salut iii^--<i-round.  Ivxactly  the 
same  thing-  was  repeated  as  the  Kaid  of  each  pro\ince 
or  his  representative  rode  forward.  They  were,  of 
cours(>,  variously  attended,  according  to  their  position, 
tVoiii  the  Kaiil  of  (Jindafy,  who  was  represented  by  a 
single  soldier,  to  the  Kaid  of  llahamna  with  his  two 
hundred  splendidly  caparisoned  horsemen.  A  soldier 
mounted  on  a  mnle  represented  one  of  the  divisions 
of  llaha.  ^Vith  the  last  presentation  ended  the  statt' 
function.  The  Viceroy  returned  as  before,  and  t'ach 
tribe  and  Kaid  wended  their  way  citywards. 

We  of  course  followed  tluir  example.  An  ngly 
iucidi'iit  marked  our  return.  As  we  were  entering 
the  gate  an  attempt  was  made  to  rush  us.  llai)pily, 
it  was  frustrated  by  some  horsemen  of  our  friend  the 
Kaid  of  Rahamna,  who  helped  to  keep  off  the  crowd. 

Though  the  religious  proceedings  and  state  ceremony 
were  over,  the  festivities  connected  with  the  Aid-el- 
Kebir  had  still  to  connnence.  The  afternoon  was  to 
be  devoted  to  a  grand  display  of  powder-play,    and 

2  c 


402  MOROCCO. 

never  having  seen  tliis  national  game  to  advantage,  we 
resolved  to  be  spectators,  whatever  might  be  the  risk. 
As  a  matter  of  fact,  we  thought  that  there  could  be 
little  danger  in  mixing  in  a  crowd  gathered  for  secular 
enjoyment  when  we  had  been  allowed  to  go  unmolested 
at  a  religious  function,  Avhere  there  might  have  been 
some  excuse  for  attacking  us.  To  be  on  the  safe  side, 
however,  we  sent  to  the  Kaid  and  asked  for  an  escort. 
We  were  not  surprised,  considering  our  strained  re- 
lations, when  he  informed  us  that  we  had  no  business 
to  be  out.  This,  however,  did  not  agree  with  our  ideas 
of  our  rights  and  privileges  as  Britons  and  bearers  of 
a  Sharifian  letter,  and,  escort  or  no  escort,  we  deter- 
mined to  go. 

In  the  cool  of  the  afternoon  we  accordingly  set  forth 
with  some  of  our  men  for  the  square  of  the  Friday 
market.  Here  we  found  a  crowd  of  many  thousands 
of  people  gathered  to  see  the  game. 

The  powder-play  had  not  commenced,  and  to  pass 
the  time  we  entered  a  cafe,  where  we  drank  some 
coffee.  Retiu-ning  outside,  we  found  the  mob  crowd- 
ing in  an  unusually  uncomfortable  manner  round  the 
door,  there  being  many  country-people,  who  had  never 
seen  a  European  before.  As  Ave  stood  and  watched 
the  gathering  horsemen  and  the  strange  scene  around 
ns,  it  became  very  evident  that  mischief  was  brewing, 
and  that  our  presence  was  obnoxious.  We  had  long 
been  accustomed  to  scowls  and  re\'iliugs,  but  there  was 
now  a  tendency  to  hustle  us.  We  could  only  form 
a  very  hazy  idea  of  the  import  of  the  curses,  and  we 


THE  AID-EL-KEBIR. 


403 


replied  to  them  by  goocl-liunioured  smiles  and  jokes. 
It  was  ditl'ereut,  however,  with  a  young  man,  the 
nephew  of  our  friend  Bonich,  who  accompanied  us  as 
interpreter,  Assor  not  daring  to  venture  out.  Arabic 
he  knew  better  than  his  own  tongue,  and  his  fiery 
Spanish  blood  could  not  brook  hearing  the  revered 
bones  of  his  ancestors  consigned  to  the  lowest  dejjths 


FACES    1>J   THE   CKOWD. 


of  hell ;  he  chafed  accordingly.  One  great  hulking 
Negro  showed  himself  specially  obnoxious  in  his  lan- 
guage, and  he  speedily  brought  matters  to  a  climax. 
I  had  turned  to  watch  the  arrival  of  a  party  of  horse- 
men, when  a  savage  clamour  broke  out  behind  me. 
Wheeliuij  roimd,   I  discovered  to  mv  dismav  that  the 


404  MOROCCO. 

rash  boy,  utlerly  forg'etfiil  of  his  situation,  had  rushed 
at  his  black  reviler  and  struck  him  in  the  face,  'llie 
next  moment  lie  was  stunned  by  a  lieavy  blow  from  the 
Negro's  club.  A  howl  of  execration  burst  from  those 
around,  and  Bonich  was  being  hustled  into  their  midst, 
from  which  he  would  never  have  escaped  alive.  How- 
ever great  might  be  our  own  danger,  it  was  impossible 
to  stand  by  and  see  our  companion  murdered  before 
our  eyes  without  doing  what  Ave  could  to  save  him. 
It  was  not  a  time  for  thought  or  calculation,  only  for 
action.  Involuntarily  I  rushed  to  his  rescue.  Those 
in  front  of  us  fell  back.  The  Negro  was  about  to  deal 
another  blow  at  Bonich  when  I  struck  him  with  my  fist 
full  in  the  face.  The  next  moment  I  was  over  him, 
pinning  him  to  the  ground  by  the  neck,  and,  like 
Bonich,  forgetting  my  surroundings,  soundly  belabour- 
ing him  Avith  my  hunting  crop.  It  was  too  much, 
however,  for  a  Moorish  crowd  of  fanatics  to  see  one  of 
their  number  thrashed  by  an  infidel.  ^\'ith  fierce 
yells  they  rushed  at  me.  I  turned  to  look  up.  A 
club  was  descending  on  my  head.  I  dodged,  and 
received  the  blow  on  my  left  shoulder,  paralysing 
the  arm  but  saving  my  life.  I  let  go  the  Negro  and 
stood  erect.  Letting  out  the  huge  lash  attached  to 
my  hunting-crop,  and  throwing  all  the  fury  and 
strength  at  my  con nu and  into  one  fell  stroke,  I  swept 
it  round  the  faces  of  the  closing  crowd.  Taken  by 
surprise,  those  in  front  fell  back  with  skinned  faces, 
howls  of  pain  mingling  with  their  cutses.  With 
ampler  sweep,  I  once   more   struck  out  with    all    the 


THE  AW-EL-KEBIR.  405 

concentrated  force  of  one  who  figlits  for  clear  life.  So 
vicious  was  the  blow,  that  the  lash,  thoiiL^h  thicker 
than  my  fincfer,  broke  off  at  the  fastening. 

T  was  now  standing  clear  of  the  crowd,  exposed  to  a 
new  and  iikhv  tcrril)l(>  danger.  In  the  midst  of  the 
wild  pandemonium  I  was  able  to  detect  jihi-ases  of 
sinister  import — "Stone  the  dog  of  a  Christian." 
"  Kill  him  !  "     "  Send  the  Kaffir  to  Gehenna." 

From  all  sides  hundreds  of  stones  came  hurtling 
through  the  air.  I  was  awai'e  of  blow  upon  blow,  but 
I  felt  no  pain,  not  even  any  sensation  of  fear.  My 
excitement  was  too  great,  the  danger  of  the  moment 
too  supreme.  Time  after  time  a  levelling  blow  on  the 
head  seemed  ineWtable  ;  but  no  !  ^Marvellous  to  relate, 
my  skull  escaped  absolutely  untouched,  though  I  was 
knocked  black  and  blue  over  leg  and  body.  My 
situation  in  those  few  seconds  was  intensely  critical. 
Our  servants  had  shamefully  fled,  and  at  any  moment 
I  might  be  knocked  senseless.  So  far  I  had  bt'en  too 
much  absorbed  in  my  own  position  to  know  what  my 
companion  Crichton-Browne  and  young  Bonich  were 
about.  I  now,  however,  became  aware  that  they  were 
bravely  making  a  diversion  in  my  favour.  Slowly  I 
retreated  in  that  direction,  still  faciu''-  the  vellinff 
fanatics,  still  brandishing  my  hunting-crop,  and  hap- 
])ily  forgetful  of  my  revolver.  A  few  seconds  more 
and  I  had  rejoined  my  friends  near  the  cafe.  To  our 
relief  the  door  was  o]ien.  Had  it  Ix-eu  otherwise,  our 
position  would  have  been  hopeless,  for  on  either  side 
stretehed  a  blank  wall  with  no  ]ioint  of  escape.     Amid 


4o6  MOROCCO. 

the  ansfiy  cries  of  the  bafHed  imiltitude  we  bolted 
inside  and  shut  the  door. 

Though  we  had  thus  obtained  a  temporary  respite, 
we  were  far  from  out  of  danger.  The  clamour  for  our 
death  rose  more  angrily  than  ever,  and  hundreds  of 
stones  hammered  with  a  terrific  din  against  the  door. 
We  felt  sure  that  they  would  attempt  to  force  an 
entrance  and  dispatch  us  like  rabbits  in  a  warren. 
We  had  little  time  to  think,  however.  A  new  and 
sharper  note  was  sounded  by  the  crowd.  The  rattle 
of  stones  became  less  insistent  and  continuous.  We 
looked  at  each  other,  and  only  our  eyes  spoke  the 
thoughts  within  us.  Almost  unconsciously  we  loosened 
our  revolvers  in  their  belts,  and  kept  our  fingers  on 
them.      AVe  could  only  await  the  last  critical  moment. 

The  medley  of  excited  cries  now  retreated  some 
distance  from  the  door.  In  a  slight  lull  a  muffled 
sound  reached  our  ears.  With  bated  breath  and 
closest  attention  we  listened,  trying  to  fathom  the 
significance  of  the  sound.  Quickly  it  gathered  in 
volume.  It  approached  our  refuge.  Yells,  howls, 
and  execrations  followed  in  its  wake  in  a  demoniac 
roar.  A  moment  more,  and  we  expected  to  see  the 
door  flying  into  splinters.  But  no  !  The  thundering 
sound  swept  past,  and  then  we  knew  we  were  saved. 
The  sound  was  that  of  a  fierce  rush  of  galloping  horse- 
men driving  back  the  infuriated  !Moors.  Assured  of 
this  fact,  we  threw  open  the  door  and  walked  straight 
out  again  in  face  of  the  crowd.  A  roar  of  execration 
greeted  our  appearance,  and  stones  whizzed  past  us  to 


THE  AID-EL-KEBIR.  407 

the  iiniiiiiK'iit  (lan<)fer  of  onr  persons.  But  our  blood 
was  up,  and  we  were  determined  not  to  be  driven  away. 
This  lasted  for  a  short  time,  till  some  soldiers  were 
posted  round  us,  and  then  the  fanatics  contented 
themselves,  as  at  first,  with  cursin<^  and  reviliiif^  iis. 
Though  sadly  bruised  and  sore,  and  still  far  from 
being  in  a  safe  position,  our  British  pride  would  not 
permit  us  to  leave  the  ground,  and  we  remained  to 
see  the  powder-play,  which  now  went  continuously  on. 
We  speedily  became  absorbed  in  tlic  pieturesque  dis- 
play before  us. 

At  the  far  end  of  the  square,  witli  the  Ivutubia 
some  distance  beyond  overlooking  all,  the  various 
tribes  are  massed,  line  behind  line,  all  in  most  un- 
soldierlikc  costumes,  but  a  perfect  artist's  dream  of 
artistic  effects.  In  front  of  them  stretches  the  space 
in  the  square  kept  open  for  them,  having  the  ^Nfoorish 
crowds  on  either  side,  and  the  walls  of  the  adjoining 
houses  covered  with  eager  onlookers.  The  first  line 
now  begins  to  move  forward.  The  horses  are  re- 
strained to  a  trot,  and  display  their  fine  action  as 
they  dance  forward  instinct  with  fiery  life.  Their  long 
tails  sweep  the  ground,  and  the  tangled  bushy  manes 
and  luxuriant  forelocks  add  to  their  wild  appearance. 
Their  trappings  are  of  the  most  gorgeous  description, 
bridle  and  saddle  alike  being  ablaze  with  yellow,  greeu, 
or  crimson  housings.  Their  riders,  swathed  in  volumi- 
nous creamy  dresses,  sit  like  born  riders,  their  swords 
at  their  sides,  the  crimson  cords  of  their  daggers  and 
powder-horns,   helping  to   retain   their  Imils  on  their 


4o8 


MOROCCO. 


shoulders.  They  lioUl  their  lonof  ilinl -locks  in  their 
hands,  the  stocks  resting  on  their  thighs  and  the 
muzzles  pointing  skyward.  The  Kaid  or  leader  rides 
in  the  centre,  and  is  distino-uished  l)v  tin*  fineness  of  his 


POWDRU-PLAV. 


h((ik,  l)ut  more  b}'  the  magnificent  horse  he  rides  and 
the  splendour  of  its  trappings.  He  sits  among  his 
men  as  becomes 'a  Kaid,  ever  turning  an  eager  com- 
mandinii'  eye  to  rio-lit  and  h-ft  to  see  that  all   are   in 


TIIR  AID-liL-KF.BIR.  409 

lino  and  acquitting  tliemselves  properly.  Mcainvliile, 
the  pace  increases.  The  horses  try  to  bn-ak  away, 
impatient  of  the  Lit  and  the  delay.  The  party  near  the 
middle  of  the  square,  and  are  almost  opposite  us,  and 
still  they  proceed  at  a  hand-tifallop.  At  this  moment 
the  Kaid  raises  his  gini,  si  ill  holding'  it  vertically,  high 
in  the  air.  As  if  moved  by  a  common  impulse,  twenty 
others  do  the  same.  The  horses,  feeliug  that  the 
moment  of  action  is  coming,  are  restrained  with  diffi- 
culty. The  guns,  still  held  overhead,  are  now  IjrouLdil 
to  the  horizontal,  every  movement  being  led  by  the 
Kaid.  The  next  moment  the  flintlocks  are  lowered, 
and  the  stocks  pressed  against  the  shoulders.  'J'he 
reins  are  dropped  and  the  horses  bound  forward  in  a 
magnificent  rush.  For  a  moment  nothing  is  heard 
but  the  dull  thunder  of  galloping  feet,  nothing  seen 
but  a  line  (if  levelled  guns  and  an  indefinite  mass  of 
white  dresses  and  horses  half-hidden  in  a  cloud  of 
dust.  Horses  and  men  are  darting  straight  for  a  dt-ad 
wall,  as  if  to  their  own  de.struction. 

As  we  watch  with  breathless  inti^'est  the  living 
whi  1-1  wind,  a  crashing  volley  sounds  in  our  ears,  and 
then  N\e  are  confusedly  aware  of  guns  again  twirled 
overhead,  of  floating  hail->i  and  red-peaked  caps  ]iar- 
tially  si'en  amid  clouds  of  yellow  dust  and  curling 
wreathes  of  blue  smoke.  In  a  twiidvliug  the  reins  are 
regained,  and.  almost  touching  the  dead  wall,  the  horses 
are  thrown  on  Ihrii-  hnunchrs  and  arrested  in  their  wild 
charge.  Then  from  out  the  dust  ;ind  sniokc  tin'  |);irty 
returns  in  single  (ile  to  the  stai-t  ing-point. 


4IO  MOROCCO. 

Kaid  .iftor  Kaid  shows  the  disciplined  skill  of  his 
men  in  horsemanship  and  the  use  of  arms  with  varying 
success  and  applause.  At  times  the  lines  get  broken, 
or  a  soldier  fires  his  gun  prematurely;  when  the  charge 
has  to  be  made  over  again. 

Most  interesting  of  all,  however,  were  the  feats  and 
antics  of  those  who  rode  singly  or  in  twos.  These 
displayed  the  greatest  skill,  and  added  something  of 
realism  and  dramatic  interest  to  their  exhibition. 
They  searched  for  the  enemy.  Shading  their  eyes 
with  their  hands,  they  pranced  forward  looking  eagerly 
in  all  directions.  The  enemy  was  seen,  and  charged 
with  fierce  shouts  of  "  None  but  the  one  God !  "' 
Mocking  cries  or  Ijloodthirsty  threats  were  hurled  at 
the  imaginary  foe.  Then  came  the  firing,  the  sudden 
halt,  and  the  gallop  back.  Some  there  were  who  dis- 
played special  feats,  such  as  firing  their  guns  while 
held  in  all  sorts  of  unusual  positions,  or  throwing  their 
weapon  up  in  the  air  while  at  full  gallop,  catching 
it  again  and  then  firing  at  an  imaginary  enemy  in 
front  or  rear.  In  these  and  other  feats  one  man  from 
Sidi  Rehal  carried  off  the  honours  of  the  day.  Going 
in  a  straight  line  at  full  gallop,  he  stood  erect  on  his 
saddle,  tossed  his  turban  in  the  air,  slipped  into  his 
seat  again,  and,  still  at  full  gallop,  turned  and  stood 
on  his  head.  At  another  time  he  stood  on  his  saddle 
while  going  at  full  speed  brandishing  his  gun  overhead, 
dropped  as  before  into  his  seat,  and,  quick  as  lightning, 
turned  round  and  fired  at  an  imaginary  enemy  chasing 
him.      A  third  feat  was   to  simulate   being  wounded 


THE  AID-EL-KEBIR.  411 

while  pnrsuod  l)y  tlio  enemy,  and  by  way  of  carrying 
out  the  fraud,  to  sway  about  in  his  saddle  as  if  dis- 
abled. The  pursuer,  thus  thrown  off  his  guard,  was 
allowed  to  come  near,  when  at  once  the  seemingly 
wounded  man  was  erect,  and  the  enemy  done  to  death 
before  he  had  time  to  recover  from  the  surprise. 

This  interesting  exhibition  went  on  till  after  sunset, 
and  then  it  became  a  question  how  we  were  to  get 
away.  At  first  we  thought  of  remaining  in  the  cafe 
till  after  dark,  but  that  idea  was  given  up  on  con- 
sidering the  additional  dangers  of  a  possible  mobbing 
in  the  dark  and  with  no  cavalry  at  hand.  We  re- 
solved, therefore,  to  leave  on  the  moment.  With 
difficulty  we  got  our  horses  brought  to  us,  our  men 
having  recovered  from  their  first  panic.  We  at  first 
rode  away  quite  leisurely,  amid  renewed  howling  and 
curses  of  all  sorts ;  several  stones  were  thrown,  but 
without  doing  us  any  harm.  Matters,  however,  became 
so  bad  in  spite  of  the  presence  of  several  of  the  Raid's 
soldiers,  that  we  had  to  put  our  horses  to  the  gallop 
and  run  amuck  through  the  crowd.  We  speedily  got 
outside,  and  without  further  misadventure  reached  our 
quarters,  where  our  first  care  was  to  attend  to  our 
bruises,  which  were  numerous  from  neck  to  foot. 

Next  day,  our  blood  being  still  up,  we  detennined 
to  revisit  the  square,  just  by  way  of  asserting  our  right 
to  be  there.  We  started  off  in  the  morning,  with 
the  double  purpose  of  giving  the  Kaid  a  bit  of  our 
mind,  and  of  making  a  reconnaissance  to  find  out  the 
disposition  of  the  enemy,      ^^'ith  difficulty  we   got  two 


412  MOROCCO. 

of  our  men  to  follow  us.  The  streets  were  considerably 
crowded.  By  the  way  we  were  looked  at  it  could  be 
seen  that  the  disturbance  of  the  previous  evening  was 
in  every  man's  mind,  and  that  every  one  wondered  at 
our  temerity  in  venturing  out  again  after  what  had 
lia|)]i<'ued.  No  one  molested  us,  however,  and  we  rode 
on  to  the  Raid's.  That  official  was  all  excuses,  vowing 
that  the  disturbance  was  all  the  work  of  the  country- 
people.  He  asked  us  what  would  have  been  done  in 
England  if  a  ]\Ioor  had  l^eeu  assaulted  as  we  were. 
Of  course  we  said  that  the  guilty  person  or  persons 
would  have  been  put  in  prison.  To  which  he  tri- 
umphantly answered,  "  Allah !  what  have  you  to 
complain  of  then  ?  For  I  have  thrown  thirty  people 
into  dung-eons,  whether  guilty  or  not."  He  did  not 
further  explain  that  the  captures  were  made  less  with 
an  idea  of  punishing  guilt  than  of  filling  his  own 
pockets  with  the  fines  extracted. 

We  would  have  had  more  compassion  for  his  victims, 
but  that  we  knew  that,  whether  they  took  part  in 
the  attack  or  not,  they  were  all  morall}^  guilty,  and 
thoroughly  rejoiced  in  and  sympathised  with  it.  We 
were  weak  enough,  however,  to  ask  their  freedom, 
which,  the  fines  having  been  extracted,  was  willingly 
accorded. 

In  the  afternoon  we  once  more  rode  back  through  the 
crowd  to  the  cafe  door.  Our  appearance  was  greeted 
with  hooting,  and  one  or  two  stones  were  thrown.  We 
thought  we  wei'e  in  for  another  attack,  but  happily 
the  im]irisonment  of  (lie  tliirty  men  had  become  known. 


THE  AID-EL-KEBIR. 


4'3 


and  110  flirt  her  molestiitiou  was  oflVrcd  us  At  the  cat  u 
wo  found  several  soldiers  a^^■aitin^  our  arrival.  Nothing 
worth  iiifiilioiiiii^-  liai)[)eiicd  to  niai'  oiu"  enjoyment  of 
the  powder-play,  and  we  retired  as  before,  with  a  sense 
of  coming  out  of  the  conflict  the  victors. 


THE   KUTUUIA, 


(     414    ) 


CHAPTER  XXVI L 

THE  JEWS. 

Among  the  many  attractive  studies  wliicli  Morocco 
presents  to  tlie  mind  of  the  inquirer,  none  is  of  more 
surpassing  interest  than  the  position  of  the  Jews. 

We  started  from  England  on  our  quest  of  the  new 
and  the  wonderful  with  the  current  ideas  regarding 
the  shameful  oppression  under  which,  in  the  Sultan's 
"  happy  douiinions,"  the  Jews  are  supposed  to  eke  out 
a  miserable  existence.  We  understood  that  they  were 
in  a  position  of  semi-serfdom,  compelled  to  huddle  to- 
gether in  filthy  stys,  known  as  Mellahs,  subjected  to  the 
most  degrading  restrictions,  liable  to  be  murdered  and 
tortured  with  impunity,  their  wives  and  daughters  the 
legitimate  prey  of  the  lustful  passions  of  their  oppres- 
sors— that  theirs,  in  sliort,  was  the  life  of  the  pariah 
dog,  glad  to  escape  with  no  worse  than  curses,  kicks, 
and  blows,  and  thankful  if  allowed  unmolested  to  pick 
up  such  scraps  and  offal  as  might  be  gleaned  from  the 
garbage  of  the  Moorish  dunghills. 

For  a  time  we  retained  these  impressions  in  all  their 
fulness.  The  first  superficial  glance  at  the  outward 
aspect  of  things  around  us  seemed  only  to  corroborate 


THE  JEWS.  415 

the  tale  of  liorror  and  degradation  we  had  heard  iu 
Engkmd.  With  our  own  eyes  we  saw  the  overcrowded 
Mellahs  and  the  resulting  physical  and  moral  evils. 
No  account  of  the  terrible  filth  conveyed  half  the  truth 
as  to  their  actual  condition.  The  stamp  of  degradation 
and  the  ravages  of  disease  seemed  marked  on  the  face 
of  every  inhahitant.  Hated  like  poison,  and  looked 
upon  by  the  Moors  with  profound  conteuipt,  our  first 
feeling  on  beholding  these  suffering  children  of  Israel 
was  one  of  unmitigated  commiseration  and  pity.  Our 
indignation  continually  welled  over  to  think  that  in 
this  nineteenth  century  such  a  state  of  things  was  per- 
mitted to  exist.  More  than  anything  we  wondered  to 
find  that  among  the  Europeans  of  the  coast  towns  there 
was  a  marked  reflection  of  the  attitude  of  the  IMoors. 
Not  one  of  them  but  would  sooner  consort  with  a  Moor 
than  with  a  Jew.  We  ourselves,  fresh  out  from  home, 
and  burning  with  ideas  about  ecpiality  of  race  and  re- 
ligion, full  likewise  of  sympathy  with  the  downtrodden 
and  the  oppressed,  were  anxious  to  prove  our  sentiments 
in  action,  to  hold  out  to  the  victim  of  tyranny  the  right 
luuul  of  Icllowship,  and  do  what  in  us  lay  to  help  him. 
Had  we  made  no  more  than  the  usual  personally- 
conducted  tourist  trip,  and  obtained  only  the  cursory 
glances  of  native  life  which  are  the  common  lot  of  such 
travellers,  we  should  have  returned  home  ready  to  draw 
a  harrowing  picture  of  Jewish  wrongs  and  grievances, 
and  to  preach  a  new  crusade  to  Christian  Europe,  call- 
ing on  it  to  rise  in  its  might  and  free  this  unhappy 
people  iVoni  its  worse  than  Uabylonish  captivity. 


4i6  MOROCCO. 

The  true  pusition  oi'  the  Jews,  like  the  character  of 
Moorish  misgovernincnt,  was  only  borne  in  upon  us 
gradually.  With  more  frequent  and  intimate  con- 
tact came  a  fuller  Ivuowledge  and  the  dawning  of  new 
lights. 

As  we  penetrated  beneath  the  surface,  it  began  to 
appear  that  the  Jews  herded  togetlier  in  their  Mellahs 
as  much  from  internal  instinct  as  from  external  com- 
pulsion, and  that,  if  not  confined  to  one,  they  would 
only  form  several — so  many  more  reeking  dunghills  to 
stink  in  the  nostrils  of  the  cleanly,  sweet  incense  and 
perfume  loving  Moor — so  many  more  jjlague-spots  to 
infest  the  air  he  breathes  and  poison  his  blood ;  for 
where  the  Jews  are,  there  also  are  filth,  vermin,  and 
disease.  In  this  respect  there  is  no  race  on  earth  so 
absolutely  repulsive  as  the  Barbary  Jew.  He  hugs  his 
dirt  as  he  hugs  his  gold. 

By  degrees  we  discovered  that  the  Jew  is  not  liable 
to  conscription,  that  he  is  not  taxed  for  the  support 
of  the  Kaids  and  the  Sultan,  and  that,  as  compared 
with  the  Moor,  his  life  and  property  are  safe.  Though 
an  alien  and  despised  people,  they  are  the  only  section 
of  the  community  to  whom  some  measure  of  justice  is 
meted  out.  They  are  largely  governed  by  their  own 
laws,  administered  by  their  own  Sheiks,  and  with  their 
own  code  of  punishment.  The  Moor,  for  a  trivial  or 
no  crime  at  all,  is  continually  liable  to  be  chained  and 
thrown  into  the  most  horrible  dungeon  ;  and  no  matter 
how  monstrous  the  injustice,  not  even  his  nearest  rela- 
tive dares  raise  his  voice  in  protest.      The  Jew  knows 


THE  JEWS.  417 

only  prisons,  comparatively  sweet  and  clean,  and  where 
chains  arc  unheard  of.  During  a  period  of  confine- 
ment for  any  oftence,  he  is  allowed  the  occasional  com- 
panionship of  his  wife  or  friends,  and  is  even  permitted 
to  go  into  the  town  to  transact  business.  The  slightest 
injustice  done  to  a  Jew  is  sufficient  to  convulse  the 
whole  of  Morocco,  and  set  every  European  Minister  at 
work,  by  the  united  outcry  of  the  Jewish  community, 
who  make  every  molehill  a  mountain,  and  every  assault 
a  iM-utal  mnrdcr.  The  I\roor,  on  the  other  hand,  might 
be  Hayed  alive  or  done  to  death  with  every  conceiv- 
able torture,  and  not  a  soul  in  all  the  land  would 
venture  to  make  a  remonstrance.  We  never  once 
lieard  of  a  Jewish  maiden  suffering  at  the  hands  of  a 
Kaid  or  other  official,  whereas  no  young  woman  of  the 
dominant  race  was  safe.  Examine  matters  as  we 
might,  we  ever  saw  the  advantage  on  the  Jewish  side 
— better  laws,  better  treatment,  greater  security  of  life 
and  property ;  spoliation,  murder,  and  rapine  were 
reserved  for  the  true  believer.  True,  the  Jew  is  sub- 
jected to  a  variety  of  restrictions.  He  must  wear  a 
black  fez  and  slippers.  In  the  Medinah  he  must  walk 
barefoot,  and  not  ride  a  horse  or  mule.  But  what  are 
such  things  to  him  so  long  as  he  is  allowed  to  make 
money  unmolested  ?  To  be  prevented  from  doing  that 
would  be  the  only  restriction  he  would  feel  acutely. 
He  is  not  allowed  to  hold  land — as  neither  are  the 
Europeans — but  practically  he  may  hold  as  much  as 
he  pleases,  simply  by  having  a  Moor  as  partner  and 
nominal  owner. 

2   D 


41 8  MOROCCO. 

As  time  went  on  and  our  studies  grew  wider  and 
deeper,  we  further  came  to  the  conclusion  that  between 
the  Government  and  the  Jews  the  Moors  are  between 
the  devil  and  tlie  deep  sea.  Into  the  respective  hands 
of  these  two  bodies  the  whole  wealth  of  the  country 
gravitates. 

As  money-lenders  the  Jews  are  as  maggots  and 
parasites,  aggravating  and  feeding  on  the  diseases  of 
the  land.  I  do  not  know,  for  my  part,  which  exercises 
the  greatest  tyranny  and  oppression,  the  Sultan  or  the 
Jew — the  one  the  embodiment  of  the  foulest  mis- 
government,  the  other  the  essence  of  a  dozen  Slndocks, 
demanding,  ay,  and  getting,  not  only  his  pound  of 
flesh,  but  also  the  blood  and  nerves.  Bv  his  outrag-eous 
exactions  the  Sultan  drives  the  Moor  into  the  hands  of 
the  Jew,  who  affords  him  a  temporary  relief  by  lend- 
ing him  the  necessary  money  on  incredibly  exorbitant 
terms.  Once  in  the  money-lender's  clutches,  he  rarely 
escapes  till  he  is  squeezed  dry,  when  he  is  either  thrown 
aside,  crushed  and  ruined,  or  cast  into  a  dungeon, 
where,  fettered  and  starved,  he  is  probably  left  to  die 
a  slow  and  horrible  death. 

To  the  position  of  the  Jews  in  Morocco  it  would  be 
difficult  to  find  a  parallel.  Here  we  have  a  people 
alien,  despised,  and  hated,  actually  living  in  the  country 
under  immeasurably  better  conditions  than  the  domi- 
nant race,  wliile  they  suck,  and  are  assisted  to  suck,  the 
very  life-blood  of  their  hosts.  The  aim  of  every  Jew 
is  to  toil  not,  neither  to  spin,  save  the  coils  which  as 
money-lender  he  may  weave  for  the  entanglement  of 


THE  JEWS.  4r9 

his  necessitous  victims.  Let  me  mention  one  or  two 
cases  in  illustration  of  these  remarks. 

Here  is  an  incident,  told  us  by  our  interpreter  David 
Assor,  in  which  he  himself  was  the  lender.  He  lent 
$25  to  a  native  of  Demnat  at  an  interest  of  half  a 
dollar  per  day,  and  received  as  security  three  donkeys, 
two  cows,  two  guns,  and  one  sword,  with  the  use  of  the 
donkeys  and  cows  meanwhile.  When  he  left  our  ser- 
vice, the  interest  had  been  running  on  for  twelve  weeks, 
and  therefore  amounted  to  $42,  or  nearly  double  the 
principal.  Tlie  result  would  bo  in  the  end  that  he 
would  receive  $40  or  $50  in  money,  and  retain  the 
anirnals  and  weapons. 

This,  it  must  be  remembered,  was  repeated  not  to 
prove  what  a  sharp  fellow  he  was,  but  to  show  his 
moderation  and  good-heartedness ;  for  he  told  us  he 
could  have  got  a  dollar  a  day  instead  of  half  a  dollar,  so 
great  was  the  necessity  of  the  borrower,  a  Moor  who 
had  been  swooped  down  upon  by  the  Kaid,  and  had  to 
pay  the  $25  or  be  deprived  of  all  he  possessed,  and  he 
himself  thrown  into  prison.  By  borrowing  from  Assor, 
he  had  been  enabled  to  stave  off  the  final  ruin  for  two 
or  three  montlis. 

The  following  is  another  case  which  came  under  our 
own  notice  : — To  enable  him  to  get  his  lirother  out  of 
prison,  a  Jew  lent  a  native  of  Dukalla  ''?30O,  to  be 
repaid  at  the  end  of  three  months  with  $200  of  interest. 
At  the  end  of  the  three  months  the  .$200  of  interest 
was  paid,  and  the  principal  left  at  the  same  rate  for 
another  three  months.      At  the  end  of  that  time  $400 


420  MOROCCO. 

were  paid,  leaving  still  a  debt  of  $100,  on  which  the 
Jew  was  to  receive  the  same  rate  of  interest.  At  the 
proper  time  §iOO  were  paid,  .$75  being  still  left.  In 
nine  months  the  Moor  had  thus  paid  $700  for  $300, 
and  naturally  enough  perhaps  thought  he  might  be 
freed  of  the  remaining  obligation.  But  the  Jew  would 
not  hear  of  it.  He  must  have  the  uttermost  farthing 
of  what  was  due  to  him  under  the  bond,  or  the  man 
must  go  to  prison.  To  avoid  such  a  fate,  the  latter  sold 
his  mule  for  $45,  and  gave  it  to  the  Jew.  He  now 
asked  to  be  allowed  to  go  back  to  Dukalla  to  borrow 
the  remainder  from  his  friends.  Afraid,  however,  to 
lose  sight  of  his  prey,  the  Jew  demanded  to  be  paid  on 
the  spot.  With  difficulty  his  victim  contrived  to  raise 
$25,  leaving  still  $5  unpaid.  But  even  yet  he  was  not 
permitted  to  escape.  The  Kaid  was  hand  and  glove 
with  the  money-lender,  and  to  prison  the  Moor  must 
have  gone,  but  that  at  the  last  moment  the  remaining 
dollars  were  scraped  together,  and  the  unfortunate  was 
free.  The  Jew  had  thus  received  $475  in  a  year  for 
the  use  of  $300. 

In  the  towns,  on  the  very  best  security,  the  lowest 
rate  of  interest  taken  is  30  per  cent.,  but  more 
commonly  it  rises  to  120  per  cent.,  or  higher.  To 
people  who  have  to  raise  money  at  once  to  satisfy  the 
ravenous  maw  of  a  Kaid,  the  common  wa}'  is  to  lend 
$100  at  an  interest  of  $50  for  three  months.  Of 
course,  at  the  end  of  that  time  it  is  rarely  paid,  and 
the  Jew  gladly  adds  the  -$50  to  the  $100,  and  lets  the 
accumulated  amount  go  on  at  the  same  rate  of  interest. 


THE  JEWS.  42  r 

It  must  be  admitted,  however,  that  whatever  may- 
be our  disgust  at  discoveries  such  as  these,  the  Jews 
are  not  altogether  an  unmitigated  evil  to  the  country 
of  their  adoption,  or  rather,  to  put  it  more  correctly, 
they  are  of  no  small  value  to  the  merchants  of  other 
countries.  Their  keen  mercantile  spirit  makes  them  a 
capital  medium  of  commercial  intercourse,  and  does 
much  to  keep  the  country  open  in  some  measure  to 
the  trade  of  Europe. 

Before  saying  more  about  the  general  position  of 
the  Jew,  it  may  not  be  out  of  place  to  pay  a  visit  to 
him  in  his  own  quarters.  Thither,  however,  I  would 
not  advise  any  of  my  readers  who  are  easily  upset  by 
sights  and  smells  to  follow  me. 

In  going  to  the  Mellah,  we  have  to  pass  through  a 
considerable  part  of  the  Medinah,  in  which  we  our- 
selves are  located.  We  shall  not,  however,  waste  time 
over  the  scenes  which  meet  us  01  route,  beyond  re- 
marking, for  the  purposes  of  comparison,  the  snow- 
white  dresses  and  well-washed  persons  of  the  Moors, 
and  the  calm  dignified  grace  with  which  they  move 
along,  as  of  men  to  whom  the  affairs  of  this  life  are 
but  matters  of  trivial  import,  and  to  be  attended  to 
at  any  time.  There,  too,  are  the  women  gliding  past, 
shrouded  in  their  white  JiaiJcs,  ever  attracting  us  by 
their  beautiful  eyes  and  the  outlines  of  the  well- 
shaped  nose  pressed  against  the  muslin  face-cloth. 
The  streets  are  clean  though  ruinous,  and  pictur- 
esque though  mean.  We  get  peeps  into  market- 
places, and   linger  at   the   doors  of  quaint  workshops. 


422  MOROCCO. 

Here  ami  there  a,  thoroughly  Eastern  odour  of  per- 
fumes aud  spices  permeates  the  air,  and  harmonises  with 
everything  we  sec  and  hear  around  ns.  We  cross  the 
square  of  tlie  Friday  market,  pass  the  liouse  of  Ben 
Uaoud,  the  governor,  and  finally  find  ourselves  within 
tlie  gate  of  the  Mellah. 

At  once  we  notice  a  striking  change.  We  are  in 
a  new  town,  inhabited  by  a  totally  distinct  race  ot 
people,  who  seem  to  have  almost  nothing  in  common 
with  those  we  have  just  left.  There  is  more  animation 
quicker  movement,  more  earnest  work,  and  but  little 
evidence  of  drifting  easily  through  life,  trusting  im- 
plicitly in  what  Allah  will  send.  An  eager  purpose 
shines  in  each  man's  eye — a  purpose  which  absorbs  his 
whole  soul,  and  keeps  him  restlessly,  intensely  on  the 
alert.  We  do  not  need  to  be  told  that  greed  of  gold 
is  the  moving  principle  in  the  Mellah. 

With  a  different  type  of  features  you  remark  a 
change  in  dress.  An  ugly  blue  handkerchief  with 
white  spots,  or  still  uglier,  greasy,  black  cap,  replace 
the  ample  folds  of  the  turban  or  the  bright  red  fez 
of  the  Medinah.  By  the  well-to-do  dark-coloured  or 
black  kaftans  are  worn  instead  of  gauzy  hailcs.  Every- 
where more  pronounced  colours  meet  the  eye,  every- 
where dirtier  faces  and  hands.  No  shrouded  beauties 
attract  our  attention.  In  their  place,  brazen-faced, 
disgustingly  fat,  and  repulsively  dirty  women  meet  us 
at  every  step.  No  veil  hides  their  deformed  CN'es  or 
disease-marked  faces,  a  white  sheet  hung  over  the 
head  aud  drawn  in  at  the  waist   being  the   only  cqui- 


THE  yEU'S.  423 

valenl.  'J'lieir  (awilry  g-nld-i'iiibroiiU'n'd  opun  bodices 
seem  specially  designed  to  show  off  their  gross  charms, 
and  the  skirts  of  their  dress  and  the  greasy  handkcr- 
cliief  which  covers  their  hair  are  in  keeping  with  tlicir 
general  air  of  uncleanness. 

The  gate  of  the  Mellali  leads  straight  into  the  prin- 
cipal business  street,  which  in  parts  is  shaded  from  the 
sun  by  boards  and  mats  thrown  across  from  the  house- 
tops. As  we  pass  along,  the  street  begins  to  narrow  and 
the  shops  to  Ijecome  fewer.  The  air,  which  so  far  has 
smelt  of  the  odorous  ingredients  of  Jewish  shops,  now 
becomes  more  and  more  redolent  of  the  effluvia  of 
Jewish  sewage,  of  which  the  sole  channels,  the  sole 
resting-places,  are  the  streets,  no  matter  what  its 
nature.  Eacli  side-lane  opens  up  vistas  of  dunghills, 
the  gradual  accumulation  of  which  has  raised  the 
original  level  of  every  street  several  feet,  so  that  to 
enter  the  houses  a  corresponding  descent  is  necessary. 
Clouds  of  flies  rise  in  buzzing  myriads  at  every  step. 
In  these  we  see  the  chief  disseminator  of  the  ophthalmic 
diseases  which  afflict '"' (J od's  chosen  people."  Every- 
where are  wraiiglings  and  (juarrellings.  No  uncommon 
sight  is  to  see  two  old  men  clutching  at  each  other  by 
the  beard,  and,  with  faces  thus  drawn  close  to  each 
other,  pouring  forth  an  uninterrupted  torrent  of  yells 
and  screams.  They  weep,  too,  in  their  rage,  like  ill- 
tempered  children,  and  snarl  and  snap  and  tug  at  each 
other  like  worrying  dogs.  Everywhere  the  public 
sights  and  scenes  are  unseemly.  We  look  in  vain  for 
one   i'cd(?eming   feature,  one   object  on  which  our  eyes 


424  MOROCCO. 

may  rest  with  some  sense  of  pleasure.  We  had  often 
longed  to  see  Moorish  women  unveiled  ;  here  we  should 
be  glad  of  any  covering  to  conceal  the  faces  of  the 
Jewesses  who  crowd  the  doorways  to  watch  our  passing. 
The  consciousness  that  they  are  trying  to  bring  their 
squinting  or  sightless  eyes  to  bear  upon  us  haunts  one 
like  a  nightmare,  their  large,  sensual  mouths,  with  lips 
wide  apart,  displaying  ugly  sets  of  teeth  in  harmony 
with  themselves  and  their  surroundings.  There,  too, 
are  the  children  wallowing  in  the  filth,  many  already 
marked  with  ophthalmic  disease,  and  not  a  few  just 
recovering  from  small-pox  ;  some  in  their  mothers' 
arms  fearful  to  look  upon. 

Matters  are  little  better  inside  the  houses.  We 
cross  the  family  dunghill,  conveniently  placed  at  the 
doorstep.  The  interior  arrangements  are  much  the 
same  as  in  the  Moorish  quarter — the  familiar  patio  or 
court  surrounded  by  two  storeys  of  apartments.  Here, 
however,  the  resemblance  ends.  Instead  of  being  occu- 
pied by  one  family,  there  are  from  eight  to  sixteen, 
according  to  the  poverty  of  the  inmates.  A  beastly 
sink,  full  of  liquid  sewage,  and  peopled  by  wobbling 
ducks  and  hens,  replaces  the  clean  tesselated  pavement 
or  the  rose-perfumed  garden.  Dishevelled  women,  with 
strident  voices,  scream  at  each  other  in  acrid  tones, — 
very  different  from  their  more  musical-voiced  Moham- 
medan sisters.  Seldom  has  a  family  more  than  one 
room  ;  and  too  frequently  that  room  becomes  the  dwell- 
ing-place of  two  families.  These  apartments  are,  as  in 
the  Medinah,  long  and  narrow  ;   but,  unlike  the  Moorish 


THE  JEWS.  425 

rooms,  they  are  marked  by  dirt  and  untidiness.  They 
are  absuhitely  destitute  uf  ornament,  though  the  rougldy 
painted  outline  of  a  hand  to  ward  off  the  evil-eye  might 
be  mistaken  for  an  attempt  at  such.  Another  favourite 
charm  is  the  rude  sketch  of  a  scorpion  executed  on 
paper.  This  is  supposed  to  render  its  possessor  proof 
against  the  venomous  pests  which  infest  the  city.  At 
first  we  are  led  to  believe  that  the  numerous  red  spots 
which  mottle  the  once  whitewashed  walls  are  rudi- 
mentary attempts  at  decoration,  especially  as  in  some 
places  they  are  more  numerous  than  in  others,  and  form 
a  species  of  arch.  We  are  soon  disillusionised.  These 
rude  red  splatches  mark  the  spot  where  bloated  bugs 
have  met  a  bloody  death  under  the  ruthless  hands  of 
vindictive  Jews.  The  arches  mark  the  favourite  sitting- 
places  of  the  owners ;  the  radius  of  the  arch  is  the 
length  of  the  human  arm.  Needless  to  say,  other 
vermin  lead  a  cheery  existence  in  the  mattresses  and 
straw  mats  which  cover  the  floor,  ever  attracting  atten- 
tion to  their  presence  by  their  merry  leaps  and  bounds, 
or  more  markedly  by  repeated  incursions  on  our  legs 
and  ankles. 

Few  people  are  more  hospitable  than  the  Jews,  and 
the  mistress  of  the  house  lays  down  her  child — painfully 
hideous  from  an  attack  of  the  small-pox,  now  raging  in 
the  city — while  she  washes  the  cups  preparatory  to 
giving  us  some  green  tea.  I'oliteness  demands  that 
we  should  pay  for  our  curiosity  by  acceptance.  To 
wash  down  the  nauseous  mixture  we  ask  for  some 
water.      A  tin  pannikin  is  picked  up   from   the   filthy 


426  MOROCCO. 

floor,  and  without  more  ado  dipped  into  a  large 
eartlienware  jar  in  the  corner,  leaving*  us  to  imagine 
that  the  .saino  process  has  been  going  on  since  morn- 
ing and  to  calculate  the  probable  condition  of  the  water 
in  consequence.      That  water  was  never  swallowed. 

But  enough  of  the  amenities  of  Jewish  life.  Only 
the  pen  of  a  Zola  could  fitly  portray  its  various  repul- 
sive aspects. 

Like  the  Moor,  the  Jew  sticks  to  the  doctrines  and 
ceremonial  observances  of  his  religion  with  the  most 
unchangeable  pertinacity.  Elsewhere  he  has  become 
influenced  by  his  environment,  has  dropped  much  and 
altered  much,  and  in  some  measure  has  brought  him- 
self into  harmony  with  his  surroundings.  Not  so  with 
the  Jew  of  Morocco.  Persecution  has  had  its  usual 
result.  It  has  cut  him  off  from  outside  influences,  and 
has  compelled  him  to  use  his  religion  as  a  force  to 
pi'eserve  the  race  from  destruction  as  well  as  show  it 
the  way  to  heaven.  The  Jew's  creed  has  become  the 
formula  of  a  national  union,  subscription  to  which 
ensures  the  protection  of  the  entire  community.  In 
it  lies  his  safety.  To  permit  the  slightest  variation 
in  the  received  views  is  to  undermine  the  bulwarks 
behind  which  he  has  entrenched  himself  But  while 
Judaism  in  Morocco  has  petrified  into  an  unchange- 
able crust,  it  has,  like  Mohammedanism,  lost  all  its 
moral  force.  The  Jew  will  break  almost  any  of  the 
ten  commandments  without  exception,  rather  than 
violate  a  ceremonial  observance.  To  omit  saying  his 
morning  prayers  would   lie   heavier  on   his  conscience 


THE  JEWS.  "427 

tliau  stealing.  To  touch  lire  of  any  kind  on  iSaturday, 
to  eat  meat  not  killed  by  the  proper  Rabbi,  to  ride  on  a 
mule  or  donkey  on  the  Sabbath,  would  be  more  heinous 
offences,  and  would  be  viewed  with  greater  reprobation, 
than  vicious  practices,  lying,  or  even  murder.  He 
rejoices  in  over  eighty  feasts,  fasts,  and  holidays  per 
annum,  when  it  is  not  lawful  to  do  work  of  any  kind  ; 
and  so  great  is  the  tyranny  of  the  Jewish  priesthood, 
that  not  a  soul  dares  violate  the  custom.  He  may 
have  more  than  one  wife.  Divorce  is  easily  obtained, 
but  is  rarely  taken  advantage  of,  as,  except  in  the 
case  of  the  blackest  offences,  the  wife's  dowry  must  be 
given  back.  This  is  an  effectual  veto,  leather  than 
relinquish  wealth  once  acquired,  a  Jew  would  remain 
tied  to  a  perfect  devil. 

In  justice  to  this  remarkable  race,  it  must  be  ad- 
mitted that  the  frightful  and  loathsome  state  of  things 
which  exists  among  them  is  the  result  of  past  perse- 
cution. Till  well  on  in  this  century,  their  position 
could  not  have  been  worse.  To  be  treated  like  human 
pariahs  and  moral  lepers,  to  be  buffeted,  spat  upon, 
degraded,  and  kept  apart,  could  not  but  have  the 
effect  of  making  them  in  some  measure  what  they 
were  assumed  to  be.  It  will  take  generations  of  better 
government  to  alter  the  filthy  habits  and  smooth  out 
the  moral  warps  which  ha\e  thus  been  produced. 

Among  the  mountains  and  south  of  the  Atlas,  the 
Jews  are  as  much  deserving  of  commiseration  as  ever 
they  were,  but  it  is  different  in  the  towns  and  in  ]\lorocco 
proper.      The  Lord  has  delivered  the    Philistines   into 


428  MOROCCO. 

the  liauds  of  llis  chosen  people.  As  their  ancestors 
lived  in  bondage  to  the  Egyptians,  and  were  at  last 
enabled  to  despoil  their  oppressors,  so  now,  in  a  slower 
but  more  effectual  fashion,  they  are  revenging  them- 
selves for  past  wrongs.  To  the  former  tyrants  now 
belong  the  stripes  and  the  dungeons.  It  is  their  turn 
to  be  I'obbed,  tortured,  and  ground  down.  Justice  this, 
perhaps.  Yes,  but  with  the  merciful  the  sympathy 
and  pity  are  ever  for  the  sufferer.  In  Morocco,  which 
is  the  sufferer — Jew  or  Moor — it  is  not  difficult  to 
decide. 


(     429     ) 


CHArTEll     XXVIII. 

77/7:  HOUSE-TOPS. 

Our  pleasantest  hours  in  Morocco  were  tliose  spent  on 
the  house-tops.  When  our  evening  meal  was  over, 
and  the  fierce  splendour  of  the  summer  sun  veiled 
in  the  west,  we  invariably  hastened  from  the  stifling 
oven-like  atmosphere  of  our  rooms  to  seek  fresh  air 
and  cool  breezes  overhead.  Our  appearance  in  this 
forbidden  region  was  always  the  signal  for  a  commotion 
among  such  of  the  women  as  had  already  ascended  to 
the  neighbouring  house-tops.  ]\Iost  of  them  imme- 
diately scuttled  below,  like  rabbits  suddenly  disturbed 
in  their  warren  ;  but,  like  rabbits  too,  they  not  infre- 
quently found  courage  to  turn  round  on  reaching  the 
staircases  and  trap-doors  to  examine,  with  true  femi- 
nine curiosity,  the  rude  violators  of  their  privacv. 
Some  there  were  who  ensconced  themselves  behind 
walls  and  other  bulwarks,  and  there  took  notes  of 
our  persons.  A  few  occasionally  stood  tire,  but  these 
were  mostly  such  as  we  could  well  have  dispensed 
with  the  sight  of.  Those  we  longed  most  to  see — the 
young  and  beautiful — were  treasured  up  too  securely 
,ever  to  be  permitted  to  accompany  their  riper  sisters 


430  MOROCCO. 

to  their  favourite  rendezvous,  where  there  coukl  be  no 
security  from  the  prying  gaze  of  unauthorised  male 
eyes. 

It  required  a  certain  amount  of  temerity  on  our  part 
to  venture  outside  as  we  did.  The  house-tops  are 
absolutely  restricted  to  the  use  of  women,  and  any 
man  trespassing  on  the  forbidden  region  is  liable  to 
fine  and  imprisonment.  We,  however,  as  British 
infidels,  considered  ourselves  outside  the  pale  of 
Moorish  laws,  and  made  exceptions  for  ourselves,  on 
the  plea  that  we  were  religious  lepers,  of  whom  no 
good  Mussulman  need  be  afraid  as  likely  to  disturb 
his  domestic  peace  or  attract  the  wandering  eyes  of 
his  ladies.  But  there  are  unreasonable  people  every- 
where, and  we  had  every  reason  to  believe  that  twice 
we  were  shot  at  with  murderous  intent,  one  of  the 
bullets  whistling  uncomfortably  near  us.  Not  to  be 
too  offensive,  we  rarely  ventured  up  till  darkness  was 
setting  in,  by  which  time  hardly  a  woman  was  to  be 
seen,  the  jealous-minded  Moor  being  careful  that  his 
womankind  keep  their  own  apartments  after  dark. 

Pleasant  it  was  in  these  cool,  balmy  evenings  to 
watch  the  changing  after-glow  or  the  swift  gathering 
shades  of  evening  over  the  Atlas  Mountains.  How 
different  they  looked  now,  divested  of  their  snowy 
mantle,  only  the  highest  elevations  showing  here  and 
there  a  spot  or  streak  of  white.  That  mountain  region 
was  no  longer  a  tc7'ra  incognita  to  us.  We  could 
now  identify  its  peaks  and  glens.  Eastward  we  could 
ti'ace  the   course  of  the   Gadat    throuofh   the   flankingr- 


run  HOUSE-TOPS.  431 

lower  ranges  to  the  conical  mass  of  Jebel  Glauwi, 
bringing  back  to  our  recollection  the  toils  and  worries 
of  our  first  attempt  to  cross  the  mountains.  From 
Jebel  Glauwi  to  Jebel  Tezali  the  range  presented  a 
comparatively  even  and  unbroken  summit,  gradually 
rising  westward,  till  over  Reraya,  where  tlie  slopes 
were  still  streaked  with  snow,  it  undoubtedly  reached 
its  highest  elevation.  Cutting  deep  into  the  flanks 
of  the  mountain  we  could  see  the  gorges  of  the  Wad 
Urika  and  tlie  Wad  Reraya.  At  the  head  of  the 
former  a  prominent  peak  broke  the  general  level  of 
the  crest.  This  was  the  Jebel  of  the  Asif  Sig — none 
other,  as  was  easily  demonstrable,  than  the  "  Mlitsin" 
of  Washington,  over  which  geographers  have  disputed 
so  much.  Our  eyes  ever  turned  with  special  longing 
towards  this  peak,  for  we  had  marked  it  in  our  minds 
for  an  exploring  assault. 

West  of  Reraya  a  sudden  drop  marked  where  the 
Wad  Nyfis  cuts  right  into  the  heart  of  the  range  and 
forms  the  valley  of  Gindafy.  Through  the  great  notch 
thus  hewn  out  might  be  seen  the  heiglits  of  Jebel 
Wishdan.  From  the  Nyfis  westward  the  massive 
comparatively  even  level  of  the  Atlas  ridge  becomes 
more  broken  into  conspicuous  peaks,  chief  among 
which  were  Jebel  Tezah  and  Jebel  Erduz ;  the  latter 
jutting  out  somewhat,  and  hiding  Jebel  Ogdimt  and 
the  westward  continuation  of  the  main  range. 

When  darkness  set  in,  there  was  little  to  tell  that  a 
populous  city  lay  around  us  ;  no  glimmering  street- 
lights, no  glow  in  the  sky,  no   lighted  window  even  to 


432  MOROCCO. 

brigliten  the  gloom  and  tell  of  cheery  homes  and  the 
happy  domestic  circle.  There  was  no  hum  of  busy 
life,  yet  the  city  was  not  altogether  without  some 
characteristic  sounds.  The  firing  of  guns,  the  squeak 
of  pipes,  and  the  noise  of  drums  which  accompany  a 
marriage  procession  were  of  nightly  occurrence.  More 
frequent  even  than  these  were  the  lamentations  and 
shrieks,  painful  to  listen  to,  which  announced  a  death. 
During  our  stay  small-pox  was  raging  in  the  city, 
especially  among  the  children,  and  was  carrying  off 
the  little  ones  by  scores.  Sometimes  in  our  immediate 
vicinity  three  or  four  families  with  their  friends  might 
be  heard  simultaneously  announcing  their  bereavement. 
The  house-tops  afforded  us  some  otherwise  unobtain- 
able glimpses  of  Moorish  domestic  life.  Placed  as  we 
were,  we  not  unfrequently  became  involuntary  listeners 
to  matrimonial  disputes.  One  night  we  were  made 
aware  that,  however  lowly  may  be  the  place  of  women 
in  the  Moorish  social  scale,  they  still  retain  the  right  to 
give  their  lords  and  masters  "  a  piece  of  their  mind."  The 
wife  of  our  neighbour,  who  was  no  less  than  a  Sharifia, 
or  descendant  of  the  Prophet,  had  discovered  that  her 
husband  had  been  spending  his  substance  on  strange 
women.  She  opened  fire  upon  him  accordingly.  Such 
a  torrent  of  virulent  abuse  I  never  heard  in  all  my  life. 
It  was  no  hysterical  outburst  quickly  subsiding  into 
silence,  but  one  continuous  scream,  kept  up  at  the  pitch 
of  her  voice  for  hour  after  hour,  and  indeed  far  into  the 
morning.  The  husband's  voice  was  never  once  heard, 
but  whether  his  silence  arose  from  a  guilty  conscience 


THE  nOUSR-TOPS.  433 

or  from  sheer  inability  to  edge  in  a  word,  I  cannot  say. 
Next  night,  however,  told  another  tale.  We  heard  the 
lady's  voice  again,  this  time  not  in  abuse  and  invective, 
but  in  terror  and  pain.  It  was  now  the  husband's 
turn,  and  ho  wasted  no  time  in  idle  words,  but  gave 
the  rebellious  fair  one  a  most  thorough  castigation. 

At  times  we  ventured  to  take  a  peep  into  the  court 
of  an  adjoining  house,  where  we  could  see  the  inmates 
moving  about.  The  centre  was  occupied  by  a  charm- 
ing little  garden,  overlooked  by  a  cool,  airy  verandah. 
Everything  was  supremely  neat  and  clean. 

Not  infrequent  on  these  summer  evenings  were  the 
sounds  of  unholy  revelry.      A  little  way  off  some  un- 
attached women  liad  takt-n  up  their  residence,  and  syren- 
wise  sang  nightly  the  praise  of  love   and  the  joys  of 
meeting  black- eyed  girls  in  the  light  of  the  moon.      It 
was  not  a  pleasant  sort  of  music,  and  came  to  our  ears 
in  jarring  contrast  with  the  impressiveness  and  never- 
ending  charm  of  the  call  to  prayers  at  Asha  or  supper- 
time.      At    8.30  lights  might   be   seen   ascending  the 
mosque  towers,  till,  the  top  being  reached,  they  shone 
like  stars  in  the  darkness.      Suddenly  from  one  of  the 
towers  would  burst  upon  the  night-air  the  summons  to 
prayer,   chanted   by   a  full   magnificent  voice,   another 
and  another  taking  up  the  cry,  till  the  whole  city  rang 
with  the  i)hrase— "Alhili  Aklil.ar!    Alhih  Akhbar  !  "— 
which  called  the  faithful  to  their  evening  devotions.     In 
the  stillness  of  the  starlit  night  those  sonorous  guttural 
sounds  came  to  us  with  added  effect,  and  it  is  doubtful 
if  there  were  a  dozen  of  the  true   believers  around  us 

2  E 


434  MOROCCO. 

who  listeued  halt'  so  atteutively  or  were  so  genuinely 
touched  by  the  beautiful  solemnity  of  the  Mueddiu's 
cry  as  we  hated  Christians,  who  sat  on  the  house-top 
listening  to  what  was  not  intended  for  us. 

That  all  Mohammedans  are  not  alike  uninterested 
in  the  performance  of  any  save  the  imperative  cere- 
monial duties  of  their  creed,  we  had  an  opportunity  of 
learning  also  from  our  post  of  observation  on  the 
house-tops.  A  number  of  the  faithful  nightly  gathered 
on  a  neighbouring  roof  for  prayer  and  the  reading  of 
the  Koran,  the  devotions  being  led  by  a  venerable  old 
man,  seated  near  a  lantern,  which  half  lighted  u})  his 
fine  face  and  the  picturesque  group  of  listeners. 

Sights  and  sounds  like  these  could  not  fail  to  draw 
us  into  reflections  about  ]\Iohammedanism  and  its  in- 
fluence as  a  religion  for  good  and  evil.  The  result  of 
our  investigations  had  been  far  from  encouraging.  How 
different  its  effects  in  Morocco  from  what  I  had  known 
them  in  the  Sudan!  There  I  had  seen  it  burning  with 
the  old  fire  of  its  early  days  in  Arabia,  when  it  trans- 
formed a  scattered  congeries  of  nomad  tribes  into  re- 
ligious propagandists  and  the  conquerors  of  half  the 
semicivilised  world.  Similarly,  in  the  Central  and 
Western  Sudan,  it  had  commenced  a  new  era  of  hope 
and  progress  to  the  Negro,  and  with  the  watchword  of 
Islam  a  race  of  shepherd-serfs,  called  Fillani,  had  burst 
their  heathen  bonds,  and  established  Mohammedanism  as 
their  religion,  and  themselves  as  the  rulers  of  a  region 
extending  from  Lake  Chad  to  the  Atlantic.  But  it 
was  not  alone  a  mere  conquering  force,  leading  men  to 


Tllh  HOUSE-TOPS.  435 

battle  and  victory.  It  had  proved  itself  a  jL^reat  civi- 
lising agent,  raising  the  social  status  of  the  Negi'o,  in- 
stilling the  germs  of  morality  into  his  darkened  mind, 
substituting  Allah,  the  one  God,  compassionate  and 
merciful,  for  his  old  idols  and  fetishes,  and  sweeping 
away  the  gross  mass  of  superstition  and  horrible  prac- 
tices which  marked  his  state  of  barbarism. 

Not  least  valuable  had  been  its  influence  in  stem- 
ming back  the  advancing  flood  of  gin,  which,  with 
a  few  Bibles,  largely  represented  Europe's  civilising 
agents.  AVherever  Islam  penetrated  in  these  bar- 
barous regions,  there  was  a  concomitant  enormous 
advancement  in  civilisation,  morality,  habits,  and  cus- 
toms, as  well  as  in  arts  and  industries.  Compared 
with  it,  no  relio-ion  was  doingf  such  masfnificeut  work 
or  producing  such  splendid  results.  There  was  an 
adaptability  and  a  simplicity  about  it  totally  awanting 
in  the  other  proselytising  creeds — or  rather,  to  put  it 
more  correctly,  in  the  methods  of  those  who  undertook 
the  propaganda;  for  the  failure  of  Christian  mission- 
aries is  more  due  to  their  insane  methods  of  going  to 
work  than  to  any  inherent  unsuitableness  in  their  re- 
ligion to  the  Uiinds  of  the  peoples  approached. 

But  if  in  the  Sudan  we  found  Mohanunedanism  in- 
stilling a  new  life  and  vigour  into  barbarous  races,  and 
setting  them  on  the  road  to  spiritual,  moral,  and  material 
advancement,  in  Morocco  wc  fonud  it  doing  quite  the 
reverse.  Here  it  was  preventing  all  advancement,  sup- 
pressing all  higher  and  nobler  impulses  which  happened 
to  be  alien  to  its  spirit,  cutting  off  the  believer  from  all 


436  MOROCCO. 

outside  genial  influences,  and  acting  as  a  blight  upon 
his  whole  nature.  Like  Judaism  in  the  case  of  the 
Jews,  Mohammedanism  had  become  to  its  Western  ad- 
herents a  petrifying  crust,  as  incapable  of  expansion 
from  the  inside  as  of  being  penetrated  from  without. 
Superficially  it  presented  a  fair  and  seemly  spectacle, 
unquenchable  faith,  scrupulous  attention  to  ceremonial 
duties,  and  most  absolute  submission  to  the  will  of 
Allah,  but  underneath  all  was  mas'Sfots  and  rottenness. 

Mohammedanism  had  here  proved  itself  to  have  that 
amount  of  good  in  it  which  could  raise  a  degraded 
people  to  a  considerable  level  of  civilisation,  and  give 
the  main  impetus  which  made  their  arms  all-conquering. 
Further  than  that  it  could  not  go.  With  the  dying- 
out  of  the  first  intense  missionary  enthusiasm  came  the 
dissociation  of  religion  and  morality — the  petrifaction 
of  the  one  and  the  rapid  decadence  of  the  other.  The 
results  of  these  two  processes  are  seen  in  Morocco  in 
their  most  advanced  stage.  Here  we  are  confronted 
with  the  astounding  fact  tliat  the  most  religious  people 
on  the  face  of  the  earth  is  at  the  same  time  almost  the 
most  immoral,  and  find  that  the  force  which  made  the 
empire  great  in  the  world  has  become  the  agent  which 
will  prove  its  destruction. 

The  government  of  Morocco  was  another  fertile  topic 
of  discussion  and  reflection.  The  existing  state  of 
things  seemed  almost  incredible  to  European  eyes.  I 
had  never  seen  anything  to  compare  with  it,  even 
among  the  most  barbarous  races  of  Central  Africa. 
The  Moorish   principles  of  ruling  may  be  summed  up 


THE  HOUSE-TOPS.  437 

in  two  words — poverty  ami  disunion.  Keep  the  people 
ground  down  to  the  dust  and  foster  tribal  animosities, 
and  there  will  be  no  rising  against  the  constituted 
authority.  In  the  poverty  of  his  subjects  and  the 
disunion  of  the  tribes  lies  the  strength  of  the  Sultan. 
For  the  people  to  become  wealthy,  or  the  tribes  to 
unite  among  themselves,  would  be  manifest  dangers  to 
the  state.  Consequently,  every  penny  of  money  is 
squeezed  out  of  them  by  regular,  and  especially  by 
irregular,  taxation.  The  most  absolute  restrictions  are 
put  upon  the  exportation  and  importation  of  important 
articles.  Such  a  poi't  as  Agadir,  the  natural  outlet  of 
the  trade  of  Sus,  is  kept  closed  to  commerce,  solely 
with  the  same  end  in  view.  A  scarcity  of  food  existed 
last  year  in  the  south,  while  in  the  north  there  was 
abundance.  Nevertheless  the  Sultan  refused  to  allow 
of  a  trade  in  grain,  because,  on  the  one  hand,  those 
who  were  starving  would  get  their  food  too  cheap,  and, 
on  the  otlier,  those  who  sold  would  get  too  much  mone}-, 
and  might  make  themselves  troublesome.  Rather  than 
that,  let  the  people  starve  and  the  food  rot. 

Too  much  starvation,  however,  it  is  seen,  may 
engender  discontent  with  the  Sultan's  and  God's 
decrees.  Therefore,  to  prevent  co-operation  among 
the  tribes,  everything  is  done  to  keep  up  an  inimical 
feeling.  No  two  neighbouring  governors  are  ever 
friendly  with  each  other.  To  be  so  would  be  to  lay 
themselves  open  to  suspicion.  A  little  war  between 
two  such  neighbours  is  not  discountenanced  by  the 
Sultan   as  long  as    it   helps   to    ruin   their    respective 


438  MOROCCO. 

districts.  Sometimes  it  is  purposely  encouraged, 
till  the  Sultan,  seeing  his  opportunity,  turns  round 
in  virtuous  indignation,  and  throws  into  prison  the 
governor  w^ho  has  been  most  enriched  hy  spoliation 
and  plunder,  the  ill-gotten  wealth  thus  finding  its 
way  into  the  Sultan's  treasury.  Everything  exists  for 
the  ruler ;  land  and  people  are  alike  his.  The  whole 
system  of  government  is  arranged  with  a  view  to  im- 
poverishing exactions.  The  Sheiks  drain  the  people, 
the  Kaids  the  Sheiks,  and  the  Sultan  the  Kaids,  the 
result  being  as  complete  as  the  drainage  of  a  given 
area  into  the  ocean  by  a  river  and  its  tributaries. 
The  people  have  no  rights,  save  such  as  the  Sultan 
more  or  less  temporarily  accords  them.  Justice,  or 
the  reverse,  is  dispensed  to  the  highest  bidder,  and 
crime  winked  at  under  the  influence  of  bribes.  A 
man's  sole  safety  in  Morocco  lies  in  absolute  poverty. 
To  have  money,  or  the  reputation  of  having  it,  is  to  live 
in  constant  fear  of  chains  and  the  dungeon,  of  torture 
and  starvation.  The  tenure  of  office  of  a  Kaid  or 
Sheik  entirely  depends  on  the  amount  of  money  he 
manaores  to  divert  into  the  coffers  of  the  Sultan  and 
his  ministers.  Few  there  are  who  do  not  know  the 
inside  of  a  dungeon  ;  fewer  still  who  are  allowed  to 
end  their  days  in  peace.  Formerly  the  Kaids  had  a 
certain  measure  of  power,  and  could  at  times  even  set 
the  Sultan  himself  at  defiance.  Now  that  powder  is 
much  broken.  In  order  to  break  it  still  further,  to 
promote  further  disunion  and  more  thoroughly  drain 
the    country   of   its    wealth,    all   the    larger    provinces, 


THE  IIOUSIl-TOPS.  439 

sucli  as  Abcla  and  Ilaha,  liave  now  several  governors, 
besides  Amins  or  (xovernraent  tax-collectors. 

The  result  of  these  measures  is  seen  in  every  corner 
of  the  country.  Ruin  and  desolation  are  marked  on 
every  square  mile,  deserted  homesteads  and  rich  plains 
lying  uncultivated  telling  their  own  tale  of  spoliation 
and  i";ii)ino. 

As  we  wander  from  province  to  province  and  from 
city  to  city,  and  see  the  poverty  and  degradation  of 
the  inliabitants,  it  seems  difficult  to  believe  that  these 
arc  th(>  descendants  of  the  people  who  concpiered  Spain, 
who,  when  all  the  nations  of  I'hirope  were  little  better 
than  semi-barbarians,  encouraged  the  arts  and  sciences, 
and  built  noble  palaces,  mosques,  and  public  buildings, 
which  have  remained  the  wonder  of  succeeding  genera- 
tions ;  a  people,  too,  who  were  renowned  for  their  love 
of  music,  poetry,  and  literature  in  general,  and  who  set 
an  example  of  rare  liberality  of  thought,  of  polished 
manners,  and  of  ruling  genius  never  surpassed  by  any 
nation  in  later  times.  The  Moors  of  to-day  are,  as  a 
race,  the  identical  ]\Ioors  of  Spain,  but  how  much  de- 
teriorated !  Not  a  trace  remains  of  the  old  enlightened 
traits.  Everything  that  made  their  ancestors  the 
admiration  of  the  world  has  been  completely  l)lc)tted 
out,  and  has  been  replaced  by  its  opposite.  All  this 
has  been  brought  about  by  the  system  of  government. 
Since  the  expulsion  of  the  i\Ioors  from  Spain,  it  has 
gone  from  bad  to  worse,  till  now  art  and  learning  are 
unknown,  the  inalerial  ]')rosperitv  and  happiness  of  the 
]te(i|)|e  imt  hdiiLi'lit   iif,  ami  i-eliLiioii  lias  become  a  barren 


440  MOROCCO. 

formula.  J  laired  and  suspicion  of  the  foreigner  replace 
the  open-hearted  hospitality  of  other  days.  From 
being  in  the  full  tide  of  the  current  of  life,  Morocco 
has  now  become  a  stagnant  backwater,  full  of  noxious 
germs  and  rotting  weeds,  utterly  irreclaimable,  and 
bound  before  long  to  sink  in  the  foul  mud  of  its  own 
making.  There  is  absolutely  no  hope  of  its  becoming 
better  through  ordinary  outside  pressure  and  contact 
with  healthier  influences. 

Morocco  knows  that  its  very  existence  now  depends 
upon  jts  isolation  and  its  firm  determination  not  to 
allow  entrance  to  European  reforms.  Every  innovation 
is  looked  upon  as  another  door  opened  to  the  invasion 
of  the  hated  infidel  and  the  assertion  of  his  power.  It 
might  be  thought  that  people  living  under  such  grind- 
ing tyranny  would  naturally  hail  with  pleasure  the 
interference  of  European  powers  in  their  behalf.  No 
greater  mistake  could  be  made.  In  the  first  place, 
they  rarely  complain  of  their  condition.  All  things 
happen  according  to  the  decrees  of  God,  and  He  it  is 
who  has  ordained  that  they  should  be  thus  afflicted. 
To  rebel  against  His  minister  on  earth  would  l^e  to 
rebel  against  Himself.  This  the  Moor  has  not  yet 
learned  to  do,  and  accordingly  he  accepts  his  fate  with 
the  most  admirable  resignation.  Again,  no  Moor  be- 
lieves for  a  moment  that  his  condition  would  be  im- 
proved under  a  European  Government.  It  seems  to 
him  that  he  would  only  be  exchanging  oppression 
under  a  ruler  of  his  own  faith  for  oppression  under  a 
Christian — a  disofrace  and  dishonour  he  could  not  bear. 


THE   HOUSE-TOPS.  441 

Nor  is  lie  altogetlu-r  without  reason  for  this  belief;  for 
in  Morocco  the  honour  of  more  than  one  European 
country  is  continually  being  dragged  in  the  mud.  by  its 
representatives,  who  in  many  cases  hvy  their  places,  not 
as  a  means  of  watching  over  their  national  interests, 
but  in  order  to  traffic  in  the  sale  of  "  protections," 
which  put  the  Moot  or  the  Jew  outside  the  pale  of 
Moorish  law,  permitting  him  to  indulge  in  legalised 
plunder,  and  so  adding  another  to  the  numerous  dis- 
eases under  which  the  country  groans. 

France  is  no  small  offender  in  this  respect,  but 
America  is  the  most  shameless  sinner.  With  no  trade, 
no  genuine  subjects,  no  real  or  imaginary  interest  to 
look  after,  there  is  yet  not  only  an  American  Minister 
at  Tangier,  but  Vice-Consuls,  mostly  Jews,  in  the  chief 
coast  towns,  some  of  whom  are  no  honour  to  their 
country.  Nay,  more ;  America  does  not  hesitate  to 
make  a  naval  demonstration  to  compel  the  payment 
of  bills  run  up  in  the  Jewish  fashion — a  few  paltry 
hundreds  of  dollars  becoming  in  a  year  or  two  thousands 
upon  thousands. 

One  thing  we  may  congratulate  ourselves  upon.  Our 
hands  are  clean.  With  such  a  man  as  Sir  Kirby  GJreen 
at  the  helm,  we  shall  know  how  to  make  ourselves 
respected  in  just  causes,  but  will  have  no  participation 
in  anything  disgraceful  or  underhand.  A\'ith  Consuls 
like  ^Ir.  White  at  Tangier  and  Mr.  Payton  at  !Moga- 
dor,  and  Yice-Consuls  like  ^Ir.  liunot  at  Saffi  and  Mr. 
Hunter  at  Casablanca,  we  need  have  no  fear  of  our 
national  honour.      Thev  belong  to  the  class  of  men  who 


442  MOROCCO. 

liave  mado  our  uanie  and  our  iutku'iico  for  good  great 
in  the  world. 

What  will  eventually  become  of  Morocco  I  do  not 
venture  to  predict.  It  would  indeed  have  ceased  to 
exist  as  an  empire  long  ago  had  not  national  jealousies 
prevented  its  absorption  into  Algeria  or  its  division 
between  France  and  Spain.  Both  of  these  powers 
watch  and  wait  for  the  hour  when  it  shall  become  a 
part  of  either  or  both  of  their  possessions.  No  other 
nation  puts  in  a  claim  to  a  share  of  the  spoil,  yet  none 
will  allow  either  France  or  Spain  to  enter,  to  their  real 
or  fancied  detriment.  Spain  alone  could  not  conquer 
Morocco,  or,  if  conquered,  could  not  keep  possession  of 
it.  Even  France  would  think  twice  before  venturing 
on  the  work  of  conquest.  A  very  considerable  army 
would  be  required,  and,  with  a  troublesome  population 
in  Algeria  and  the  war-cloud  hanging  over  Europe, 
that  could  not  well  be  spared.  The  defeat  of  Germany, 
in  the  event  of  war  breaking  out,  would  determine  the 
fate  of  Morocco.  Then,  without  a  doubt,  France  would 
take  possession  of  the  region  she  has  so  long  looked  to 
as  her  natural  right,  whatever  Spain  might  say  to  the 
contrary. 

This  is  not  a  pleasant  development  to  be  looked 
forward  to  by  us,  but,  all  things  considered,  it  must 
be  admitted  it  would  be  the  best  solution  of  the 
question  for  jNIorocco.  The  French,  though  no  colo- 
nists, have  shown  themselves  capable  of  great  and 
unselfish  sacrifices  in  opening  up  the  regions  in  Africa 
of   which   they   have   taken   possession.      Of  course  it 


THE  HOUSE-TOPS. 


443 


will  l)e  asked,  wluit  about  our  rL'tontion  of  Gibraltar 
and  our  power  in  the  Mediterranean  ?  On  that  subject 
I  do  not  pretend  to  speak  as  an  authority.  Doubtless 
we  should  know  at  the  proper  time  how  to  take  such 
steps  as  might  be  necessary  for  the  safeguarding  of 
our  own  interests.  In  any  case,  the  state  of  affairs  in 
Morocco  is  a  disgrace  to  the  century,  and  we  cannot  be 
justified  in  countenancing  it  because,  forsooth,  some 
real  or  imaginary  danger  to  our  position  at  Gibraltar  is 
foreseen  by  the  substitution  of  an  improved  European 
government.  Shaky  and  rotten  must  be  the  founda- 
tions of  our  position  in  these  parts  if  it  is  dependent 
on  the  continued  existence  of  the  Moorish  empire  as  it 
is  at  present. 


AMi)N'(i  Tin:  (iAiimss,  mauaksii. 


(     444     ) 


CHAPTER  XXIX. 

URIKA. 

Towards  the  end  of  August  we  began  to  see  our  way 
to  leave  Maraksh.  The  heat  had  considerably  abated; 
the  stores  we  expected  from  the  coast  had  arrived  after 
an  excessive  delay ;  but  best  of  all,  some  sores  on  my 
feet,  from  which  I  had  been  suffering  for  over  a  fort- 
night, had  taken  a  favourable  turn. 

The  one  alloy  to  our  delight  at  leaving  the  city  was 
the  fact  that  we  would  once  more  be  thrown  upon  the 
tender  mercies  of  our  men.  David  Assor  had  made 
up  his  mind  to  return  to  Demnat,  leaving  us  dependent 
on  Abdul  Kader  as  an  interpreter.  This  arrangement 
would  have  disturbed  us  more,  had  it  not  been  that 
Abdul  Kader  was  now  three  months  in  arrears  of 
wages ;  and  although  we  still  had  to  revisit  the 
mountains,  yet  we  were  in  a  manner  on  our  way  to 
Mogador. 

As  the  time  for  our  departure  arrived,  however,  it 
seemed  as  if  we  were  likely  to  be  deprived  even  of 
Abdul  Kader's  services,  for  he  fell  sick.  For  several 
days  he  made  our  quarters  dismal  with  his  groans,  and 
brought  our  spirits  down  to  zero  by  the   sight  of  his 


UK  IK  A.  445 

paiu-stricken  and  woebegone  face.  He  reduced  Assor 
to  tears  by  the  recital  of  bis  agonies,  as  be  besougbt  the 
latter  to  lay  his  case  before  us,  and  ask  us  not  to  seek 
to  drag  him  away  to  die  on  the  road.  It  seemed  in- 
deed as  if  it  would  be  necessary  to  leave  him  behind. 
And  yet,  without  Assor  and  Abdul  Kader,  how  were 
we  to  get  along  ?  where  lind  a  substitute  ?  Our  per- 
plexity and  annoyance  was  great.  Happily,  one  day 
I  came  upon  the  sick  man  by  surprise,  and,  to  my 
astonishment,  found  liim  in  a  joyous  mood,  solacing 
liimself  with  the  companionship  of  a  dark-eyed  country- 
woman. On  seeing  me,  his  smiles  vanished  and  a 
look  of  pain  settled  upon  his  face.  A  pang  of  agony 
doubled  him  up  and  forced  a  groan  from  the  depths 
of  his  inner  man.  Grieved  at  the  sight,  I  retired  to 
reflect.  I  recalled  how,  on  a  previous  expedition,  I 
liad  quelled  a  rebellion  and  cured  no  fewer  than  a 
dozen  sick  men  with  a  single  bottle  of  castor-oil.  ]\[y 
course  seemed  clear.  Armed  with  a  dozen  pills — dose 
one  to  two — I  hastened  back  to  my  suffering  atten- 
dant. The  damsel — no  ministering  angel  in  time  of 
sickness  —  had  disappeared,  and  Abdul  Kader  was 
writhing  on  the  floor.  Ordering  liim  to  sit  up,  I 
administered  the  pills  in  one  dose,  and  then  laid  down 
my  ultimatum  with  no  uncertain  voice.  He  must 
either  be  completely  cured  by  the  morrow,  or  he  would 
bo  turned  out  of  the  house  without  letter  or  wages. 
Under  the  circumstances,  I  allowed  him  the  day 
and  night  to  recover.  Next  morning  he  came  up 
sniilintr. 


446  MOROCCO. 

It  was  on  the  28th  of  August  that  we  once  more 
took  the  fiekl.  As  on  the  occasion  of  our  previous 
departure  from  the  city,  we  did  not  think  it  necessary 
to  acquaint  the  authorities  with  the  fact,  and  we  were 
allowed  to  leave  untroubled  Ly  obstructive  soldiers. 

Our  primary  destination  was  Urika,  with  the  object 
of  penetrating  the  glen  of  that  name,  and  ascending 
the  Jebel  Asif  Sig — one  of  the  most  prominent  of  the 
few  elevations  which  break  the  even  outline  of  the 
main  ridge. 

In  six  hours'  rapid  riding  we  crossed  the  burned-up 
plains,  from  which  all  the  crops  had  now  been  gathered, 
leaving  nothing  but  yellow  stubble  and  withered  grass, 
and  reached  the  base  of  the  mountains  once  more. 
How  we  rejoiced  to  be  away  from  the  dusty  town  and 
our  oven-like  quarters,  and  find  ourselves  once  more 
near  a  brawling  torrent,  under  shady  olive  trees,  and 
with  the  mountains  towering  over  us.  We  camped 
at  Achliz,  near  the  entrance  to  the  glen.  We  were 
invited,  for  safety,  to  take  up  our  quarters  in  the 
Kasbah,  but  we  preferred  our  tents  and  a  spice  of 
danger  to  the  Kaid's  guest-house,  with  its  inevitable 
fleas  and  sense  of  confinement.  The  Kaid  was  at  a 
second  residence  in  the  mountains,  so  that  the  Kalifa 
had  to  act  for  him. 

The  da}"  of  our  arrival  being  a  market-day  and 
Achliz  a  soJi,  we  saw  a  picturesque  assemblage  of 
mountaineers  and  country -people.  Their  presence 
simplified  the  gathering  of  our  mona,  with  which  we 
were  always   lavishly  provided.      On  our  appearance, 


I!  RIKA.  447 

the  Kiilita  sent  down  ;il  owvo  ami  collected  togfthei' 
the  Sheiks  ol"  villages.  To  these  he  gave  the  neces- 
sary orders,  and  tliey  again  sent  instructions  to  those 
under  them.  As  the  afternoon  wore  on,  one  messenger 
after  another  arrived  laden  with  provisions.  From  one 
villau'e  came  a  i-onlriljutiini  of  a  doidvcv-load  of  charcoal, 
from  another  eleven  fowls,  and  from  a  third  a  sheep. 
From  various  other  quarters  came  two  or  three  dozen 
eggs,  a  dozen  pounds  of  butter,  onions,  and  a  mule- 
load  of  barley.  The  Kalifa,  on  the  part  of  the  Kaid, 
added  a  loaf  of  sugar,  a  packet  of  candles,  and  a  quar- 
ter of  a  pound  of  green  tea,  besides  half  a  dozen  loaves 
of  bread,  {'ruit,  and  several  dishes  of  cooked  food. 

leather  to  our  surprise,  almost  everything  collected 
was  handed  over  to  us — a  most  unusual  occurrence,  our 
appearance  being  usually  a  splendid  opportunity  for 
the  most  outrageous  exactions  in  the  way  of  food, 
nominally,  of  course,  for  us,  but  in  reality  ibr  the  Kaid 
and  his  Kalifa,  while  the  Sheiks  also  took  the  oppor- 
tunity to  help  themselves.  On  these  occasions  it  was 
useless  for  us  to  protest  that  we  would  rather  buy  the 
food,  ibr  the  exactions  would  have  been  made  all  the 
same.  As  little  use  was  it  to  offer  money  to  recoup 
the  poor  people  from  whom  the  supplies  were  levied  ;  it 
never  would  have  got  past  the  Kaid  or  his  underlings. 

In  our  communication  with  the  Kalifa  we  missed 
Assor  very  much,  and  had  always  a  most  unpleasant 
feeling  of  suspicion  regarding  the  integrity  of  Abdul 
Kader. 

Next   day,  though  the    Kalifa  was  anxious   that  we 


448  MOROCCO. 

should  stay  till  tlie  Kaid  arrived  from  tlie  mountaius, 
we  insisted  on  going  up  to  where  he  was.  We  started 
accordingly  with  only  halt"  our  men,  also  leaving  our 
horses  behind,  as  less  suited  to  dangerous  mountain- 
paths. 

Our  way  lay  up  the  bottom  of  the  glen,  sometimes 
in  the  bouldery  bed  of  the  river,  sometimes  winding 
along  its  olive-clad  banks.  Near  the  entrance  we  crossed 
a  series  of  vertical  beds  of  white  limestone  and  red 
shales  passing  into  red  sandstones,  which  formed  irre- 
gular arar  and  cystus  clad  hills.  On  the  slopes  and 
crests  were  several  picturesquely  disposed  villages,  with 
their  red  clay-built  walls  and  curious  open  verandahs 
in  the  upper  storeys  of  the  houses.  At  this  place  also 
there  was  an  outcrop  of  the  basalt,  which  occurs  so 
frequently  among  the  cretaceous  rochs  of  the  lower 
range. 

An  hour  from  Achliz  we  were  quite  put  out  on 
descrying  on  the  dark  bush-clad  mountain-side  the 
white  dresses  of  a  party  of  horsemen.  We  knew  it 
could  be  no  other  than  the  Kaid  and  his  attendants. 

When  within  a  quarter  of  a  mile  of  each  other  we  ^ 
halted  and  dismounted,  as  if  each  was  a  susp";  i  .^s 
party  and  required  to  be  carefully  approached.  At 
length  we  met,  and  we  were  pleased  to  find  the  Kaid 
a  lubberly-looking  and  apparently  simple-minded  fel- 
low, with  whom  we  could  probably  do  as  we  pleased. 
He  at  first  wanted  us  to  return  with  him  to  Achliz, 
but  on  our  insisting  that  we  could  not  think  of  doing 
so,  he  save  in  and  turned  back  with  us.      We  had  not 


(^/usmmt'^Jsmtn- ' 


URIKA.  449 

tar  to  go  betbro  we  were  shown  a  cliurnung  caiii])iiig- 
grouiid  in  a  grove  on  an  excessively  high  bank  of 
river,  or  more  probably  glacial  debris,  as  the  absence 
of  stratification  and  the  huge  sixe  of  the  enclosed 
boulders  seemed  to  suggest. 

Here  we  were  supplied  in  absurd  abundance  with 
all  the  luxuries  that  Urika  and  the  Raid's  stores  had 
to  offer.  The  Kaid's  care  of  our  valuable  persons  was 
not  so  gratifying.  It  took  the  form  of  his  camping 
out  beside  us,  to  keep  strict  watch  and  ward  over  us 
and  our  movements. 

The  conversation  we  had  with  him  was  apparently 
of  the  most  encouraging  nature.  We  were  told  that 
everything  he  possessed  was  ours  to  command,  and 
that  we  might  go  wherever  we  liked  in  his  province. 
lie  then  proceeded  to  let  us  down  gradually.  First, 
the  upper  part  of  the  glen  was  shown  to  be  a  part  of 
the  province  of  ^lisfiwa,  with  the  Kaid  of  which  ho  was 
on  Ijad  terms.  Next,  we  were  told  that  the  rest  oi 
the  glen,  with  its  bordering  mountains,  were  in  revolt 
against  him,  and  that  he  himself  could  not  go  a  mile 
farther  up.  We  had  a  strong  suspicion  that  we  were 
being  duped  between  the  seemingly  simple  Kaid  and 
the  wily  Abdul  Kader  ;  but  what  could  we  do  ?  How 
ascertain  the  truth  ?  In  the  evening  we  attempted  to 
take  a  walk,  and  were  speedily  stopped  by  a  dozen 
soldiers,  who  would  not  allow  us  to  proceed  farther,  on 
the  plea  that  we  should  be  killed.  At  night  a  triple  line 
of  guards  surrounded  us,  presumably  for  our  protection, 
but  in  reality  {o  niako  sure  tliat  we  did  iK)t  leave  camp. 

2   F 


4SO  MOROCCO. 

Next  day,  in  spite  of  the  protestations  of  our  host, 
we  insisted  on  being  allowed  to  ascend  the  glen, 
though  we  were  by  no  means  sanguine  that  we  would 
get  fur.  The  Kaid  at  length  gave  way,  and  com- 
mended us  to  the  keeping  of  Allah  and  half  a  dozen 
soldiers. 

Our  suspicions  that  we  were  being  hoaxed  grew  ever 
stronger  as  we  were  led  up  the  rough  bed  of  the  river 
in  the  most  rambling  fashion,  our  guides  apparently 
desirous  of  gaining  time.  Shalnm  unfortunately  knew 
absolutely  nothing  about  this  district,  so  that,  whatever 
might  be  our  suspicions,  we  were  utterly  dependent  on 
the  soldiers. 

We  had  barely  got  half  a  mile  from  camp,  and  were 
nearing  a  point  where  the  glen  suddenly  narrows  to  a 
gorge,  the  luountains  springing  abruptly  to  a  height 
of  from  7000  to  8000  feet,  when  we  noticed  signs  of 
commotion  in  the  numerous  villages  here  dotted  about. 
Great  numbers  of  men  were  hurrying  along,  apparently 
with  the  view  of  reaching  a  point  ahead  of  us.  At 
first  we  thought  that  the  Kaid,  seeing  our  determina- 
tion to  proceed  into  the  dangerous  parts,  had  ordered 
the  mountaineers  to  join  us.  Our  escort  seemed  as 
much  interested  as  ourselves,  and  watched  the  gather- 
ing natives,  freely  commenting  among  themselves  on 
the  situation. 

It  soon  became  evident  that  the  Shellach  had  no 
intention  of  acting  as  a  reinforcement  or  of  assisting 
us  in  any  way  whatever.  They  could  be  seen  collect- 
ing in  olive  groves  and  behind  rocks  and  other  favour- 


URIK.l.  451 

al)lo  positions  for  defence  and  concealment.  Every  ono 
was  armed,  and  the  glint  of  silver-monnted  gnns  could 
he  seen  from  every  grove  ahead  of  us.  An  unusual 
interest  in  what  was  going  on  was  displayed  by  tlio 
women,  who  were  crowding  out  in  front  of  the  vil- 
lages and  on  the  house-tops.  Our  hearts  sank  within 
us  as  a  large  party  suddenly  burst  from  behind  a 
projecting  ridge,  and  took  up  a  position  right  in  the 
centre  of  the  glen,  a  cordon  of  armed  men  being 
thus  drawn  across  our  path  some  two  hundred  yards 
ahead  of  us,  with  the  evident  intention  of  stopping  all 
farther  progress.  At  the  same  time  our  escort,  with 
every  sign  of  determination,  threw  off  their  cumber- 
some cloaks,  and  began  to  buckle  themselves  up  for 
action.  They  loaded  their  guns,  and  then,  in  the 
manner  of  sharpshooters,  scattered  and  advanced  to 
meet  the  enemy,  taking  advantage  of  tree  and  rock 
to  cover  their  movements.  We  ourselves  remained 
where  we  were  in  unpleasant  perplexity,  doubt- 
ing whether  the  whole  aftair  was  a  ruse  of  the 
Kaid's  to  stop  us  without  implicating  himself,  or 
a  genuine  case  of  obstruction  on  the  part  of  the 
mountaineers.  In  either  case,  our  prospects  of  ad- 
vancing further  were  nil.  We  thought  it  well,  how- 
ever, to  test  the  real  character  of  the  opposition. 
Accordingly  we  advanced  in  a  body  towards  our 
scattered  escort  in  front.  The  enemy  immediately 
displayed  great  excitement.  They  brandished  their 
guns  at  us,  and  screamed  out  that  we  must  go  back, 
else  they  would  shoot  us.     The  soldiers  of  our  party, 


452  MOROCCO. 

who  had  advanced  alone  witli  such  apparent  bravery 
to  oppose  a  force  ten  times  their  number,  seemed 
annoyed  at  our  coming  to  their  support,  and  at  the 
sight  of  our  ready  rifles.  At  each  step  the  moun- 
taineers became  more  frantic.  Scores  of  guns  were 
levelled  at  us,  and  we  knew  that  their  owners  were 
all  good  marksmen.  To  add  to  our  difficulties,  at  this 
moment  we  had  no  interpreter,  Abdul  Kader  having 
been  left  in  charge  of  the  camp.  At  length,  seeing 
how  hopeless  and  even  dangerous  it  was  to  push  our 
way  thi'ough  the  excited  cordon,  and  anxious  to  avoid 
intentional  or  accidental  bloodshed,  I  called  a  halt. 
C.-B.,  with  his  military  instincts,  wanted  to  charge  and 
force  our  way  through,  but  I  would  not  listen  to  any 
such  jDroposal,  and  gave  the  word  to  return  to  camp. 

On  regaining  our  tents,  we  angrily  taxed  the  Kaid 
with  getting  up  the  opposition.  He  earnestly  swore 
on  the  sacred  name  of  Allah  that  it  was  not  so — that 
he  himself  was  in  constant  danger  from  the  wild 
tribesmen,  and  at  the  moment  was  compelled  to  camp 
out  on  the  watch  for  possible  attacks.  Only  a  few 
days  before  our  arrival  he  declared  that  he  had 
treacherously  captured  thirty  of  the  rebels  and  thrust 
them  into  prison,  and  that  in  consequence  they  were 
in  greater  ferment  than  ever. 

How  far  he  spoke  the  truth  we  had  no  means  of 
determining,  for  we  could  not  believe  a  word  Abdul 
Kader  told  us.  On  the  subject  of  an  interpreter,  how- 
ever, our  minds  had  now  happily  been  set  at  ease,  a 
courier  having  arrived   the  night   before  from  Bonich, 


URIKA .  453 

offering  liis  services  as  such  to  Mogador.     Needless  to 
say  we  had  clutched  at  the  proposal  at  once. 

Whatever  reason  there  might  be  to  suspect  the 
Kaid  of  treachery,  he  at  least  gave  us  no  cause  of 
complaint  on  the  score  of  mona.  Here  was  our  bill 
of  fare  for  the  day,  our  party  being  six  in  number: — 

6.30. — A  liiige  ■wasli-liaiid  basin  of  soup,  witli  eggs,  milk,  aiul 
charcoal. 

8. — A  second  enormous  supply  of  soup  and  a  melon. 

8.30. — Green  tea  from  the  Raid's  own  tea-service,  four  loaves 
of  bread,  and  several  pounds  of  fresh  butter. 

9. — Four  large  dishes  of  cooked  food. 

12. — A  large  basket  of  grapes. 

1 2.30. — A  decanter  of  ro.se-water. 

3,30. — Two  dishes  of  kuskussu  and  half  a  baktd  sheep,  fol- 
lowed by  tea. 

5. — Two  dishes  of  cooked  food  with  four  loaves  of  bread. 

8.  — One  live  sheep,  a  loaf  of  sugar,  and  a  quarter  of  a  pound 
of  tea. 

9.30. — Ten  live  fowls  and  UKire  cooked  food. 

Finding  ourselves  no  match  for  the  combined  crafti- 
ness of  our  henchman  and  the  Kaid,  we  gave  up  all 
hopes  of  reaching  the  Jebel  Asif  Sig,  and  accordingly 
returned  to  Achliz,  deeply  enraged  and  disappointed. 
This  was  unfortunate  for  Abdarachman,  who,  against 
my  express  orders,  had  sent  a  miserable  little  mule  with 
a  frightful  sore  on  its  back  into  Morocco  for  Bonich. 
I  at  once,  in  presence  of  the  crowd,  administered  a 
sound  castigation  to  the  fellow,  and  ordered  him  off 
with  another  mule. 

During  our  absence  a  man  had  been  murdered  in 
our  camp,  the  murderer  flying  for  safety  to  the  neigh- 
bouring province. 


454  MOROCCO. 

Mr.  Boiiich  urrivcd  in  cum])  tlie  same  afternoon, 
having  missed  Abdaracliman,  wlio  evidently  had  gone 
on  to  ]\Iorocco.  Next  day  the  latter  turned  up  at 
9  A.M. ;  and  after  resting  the  mule  and  my  pony  Toby 
lor  a  couple  of  hours,  we  set  off  for  the  Wad  lleraya. 

Shortly  after  mid-day  we  reached  that  river  at  Tach- 
nowt,  where  it  leaves  the  low  range  of  heights,  which 
here  projects  north  from  the  Atlas. 

At  Tachnowt  or  Taghnowt  the  glen  is  compara- 
tively open,  displaying  outcrops  of  white  limestone 
and  red  shales,  forming  an  anticline  whose  axis  is 
parallel  with  the  mountains.  A  mile  up  the  winding 
river  the  glen  suddenly  narrows  to  the  merest  gorge, 
where  some  metamorpliic  shales  and  crystalline  lime- 
stones run  at  right  angles  to  its  course,  and  have  been 
less  acted  upon  by  denuding  agents. 

In  passing  through  the  gorge,  there  was  no  other 
path  than  the  bed  of  the  river,  till  once  more  the 
cretaceous  rocks  reappeared,  with  a  coincident  widening 
out  of  the  gorge  into  an  open  glen.  At  the  point  of 
junction  of  the  two  classes  of  rocks,  our  attention 
was  drawn  to  the  ruins  of  a  house  built  on  the  top  of 
a  desolate  rocky  peak,  and  said  as  usual  to  be  the  work 
of  the  "  Hum." 

Shortly  after  entering  the  rewidened  section  of  the 
river's  course  we  turned  due  west,  still  following  the 
river.  At  each  half-mile  the  country  became  better 
cultivated  and  better  wooded.  This  alteration  in  the 
character  and  direction  of  the  glen  proved  to  be  due  to 
the  occurrence  of  a  dyke  of  very  decomposable  basalt. 


L'RIKA. 


455 


ii  proljublu  continuation  of  the  one  we  had  seen  at  Urika, 
and  possibly  more  or  less  connected  with  those  we  had 
seen  at  Sidi  Ilehal  and  elsewhere,  as  far  east  as  Deniuat. 

Towards  evening  we  reached  Asni  or  Hasni,  where 
the  glen  once  more  turns  south  and  penetrates  into 
the  heart  of  the  Atlas.  Here,  close  to  the  house  of 
the  Sheik,  we  camped  in  a  fine  olive  grove. 

We  render  ourselves  liable  to  be  misunderstood 
when  we  say  that  it  was  with  no  small  delight  we 
heard  that  the  Sheik  himself  some  time  previously  had 
been  thrown  into  a  dungeon  for  the  heinous  offence  of 
not  being  able  to  satisfy  the  rapacity  of  the  governor. 
His  absence  w^e  knew  would  facilitate  the  accomplish- 
ment of  our  plans,  more  especially  as  his  son,  who  re- 
presented him,  was  but  young,  and  had  no  experience 
or  authoritv. 


roWUEK    IIOUN    ANl>    BULLET    I'OL'fUES. 


(     456     ) 


CHAPTER  XXX. 

THE  ASCENT  OF  THE  TIZI  LIKUMPT. 

In  1872  Sir  Joseph  Hooker  and  Mr.  Ball  had  visited 
Asni,  and  following  a  branch  of  the  Wad  Reraya  called 
the  Ait  Mesan,  had  succeeded  in  reaching  the  central 
ridge  of  the  Atlas.  To  the  left  of  the  Ait  Mesan  was 
a  second  stream  called  the  Wad  Iminneu,  leading,  like 
the  former,  to  a  pass  over  the  mountains  called  the 
Tizi  Likumpt.  Naturally  we  elected  to  attempt  the 
ascent  of  the  latter. 

It  would  be  tiresome  to  tell  in  detail  how  we  laid 
our  plans,  how  we  dissembled,  and  bullied,  and  bribed, 
and  puffed  ourselves  out  into  demoniac  shapes  and 
dimensions,  till  our  unhappy  young  victim  was  reduced 
to  acquiesence  and  a  proper  degree  of  malleability. 

On  the  3rd  of  September  we  found  ourselves,  de- 
spite of  all  the  painted  terrors  in  store  for  us,  leaving 
Asni  with  light  hearts,  thoun^h  with  unwillinof  atten- 
dants,  who  had  done  their  best  to  set  the  Sheik  against 
us,  to  avoid  going  with  us.  Our  guide  was  the  same 
man  who,  sixteen  years  before,  had  led  Hooker  up  the 
Ait  Mesan  valley. 

It  was    beautiful   and  brigfht  after  the  clouds   and 


77/7:  ASCENT  OF  THE  Tl/I  LIKUMPT.         457 

showers  of  tlie  previous  day,  which  had  shown  that  the 
unsettled  weather  of  winter  was  commencing.  In  about 
an  hour  from  camp  we  reached  the  entrance  to  the 
main  mass  of  mountains.  It  is  at  this  point  that  the 
Wad  Reraya  divides,  forming  the  but  sliglitly  divergent 
glens  of  the  Ait  Mesau  and  the  Wad  Iminnen.  At 
the  head  of  the  former  we  could  see  the  notch  in  the 
mountain  crest  which  marks  the  Tizi-n-Tagharot,  with 
the  flanking  prominent  peak  of  the  Tizi  Nzaowt. 

The  first  part  of  the  course  of  the  Wad  Iminnen  is 
a  narrow  gorge  cut  through  a  series  of  variegated 
sandstones,  shales,  and  limestone,  which  form  precipices 
and  steep  slopes  more  or  less  clothed  with  evergreen 
oak,  arbutus,  and  arar,  and  towering  some  three 
thousand  feet  overhead.  Not  far  up  this  gorge  we 
passed  the  remains  of  a  very  solid  concrete  dam,  for- 
merly used  for  purposes  of  irrigation,  and  of  course 
ascribed  in  these  days  to  the  Rum, 

Above  the  dam  the  gorge  widens  out  somewhat, 
and  affords  some  small  space  for  cultivation,  and  here 
are  several  hamlets  and  a  few  olive  groves  and  culti- 
vated terraces.  An  intrusion  of  porphyry  at  this  point 
alters  the  dip  of  the  sandstone  from  a  slight  one 
south  to  a  sharp  one  north,  the  latter  farther  up 
becoming  vertical  where  they  abut  against  a  series  of 
metaraorphic  rocks.  With  every  hundred  yards  the 
scenery  becomes  grander  and  more  picturesque.  The 
mountains  tower  some  live  thousand  feet  overhead,  dis- 
playing every  feature  of  rugged  scenery,  everything  awe- 
inspiring,  desolate,  and  terrible.      In  this  part  there  is 


45S  MOROCCO. 

no  room  for  cultivulioii  ;  lor  there  is  not  a  flat  piece 
of  ground  to  be  seen,  nor,  if  there  were,  is  there  any 
means  of  carrying  water  to  it.  There  is  not  even 
room  for  a  mule-path  at  the  bottom,  and  the  bed  of 
the  river  is  too  rocky  to  permit  of  its  being  used  as 
such.  The  track  ascends  the  mountain-side  and  winds 
round  the  face  of  a  great  precipice  five  hundred  feet 
deep  and  in  broken  jagged  sections  rising  a  thousand 
or  more  feet  overhead. 

Less  than  an  hour  takes  us  through  this  wild  and 
dangerous  part,  and  once  more  we  find  ourselves  on 
a  less  difficult  slope,  though  nearly  as  grim  and  desolate 
in  appearance.  The  olive  and  the  almond  have  now 
disappeared,  and  have  given  place  to  the  more  hardy 
and  stalwart  walnut,  which  makes  a  dark-green  fringe 
to  the  stream  below.  Above  the  walnut  fringe  terraces 
have  been  formed  against  the  precipitous  slope,  and 
water  conveyed  to  them  with  incredible  labour.  Near 
these,  and  generally  overlooking  them,  are  the  hamlets 
of  the  mountaineers,  more  like  small  flat  mounds  of 
clay  stuck  against  the  steep  slope  than  the  habitations 
of  men.  From  the  two-hundred-feet  line  of  cultivated 
terraces  upwards  there  extends  the  most  desolate  and 
precipitous  slope  of  rocky  debris  that  the  mind  of  man 
can  conceive,  saddest  grey  in  colour,  and  without  a 
relieving  patch  of  green  or  any  feature  on  which  the 
eye  can  rest  with  pleasure.  We  thought  we  had  seen 
the  worst  of  Atlas  scenery  in  the  glen  of  Titula,  but 
here,  if  not  more  forbidding,  it  was  at  least  more  strik- 
in<>-  in  its  air  of  desolation. 


77//i  ASCENT  OF  THE  TIZI  LlKUMl'T. 


459 


As  wo  continue  our  way,  we  find  the  nietaniori)liic 
rocks  more  and  more  sniaslied  and  penetrated  by  intru- 
sive masses  of  ig-neous  rocks,  cliielly  diorites  and   por- 


VII.I.AOE   IN  TlIF,   tll.EN   OF   TllK    WAI)  I.MINNEN'. 


pliyrites.      The  walnut  becomes  more  and  more   rare  ; 
the  evergreen  oak  disappears,  and  not  even  au  arar  is 

to  be  seen. 


46o  MOROCCO. 

After  some  four  hours  of  stiff  travellino-,  windinof 
along  the  merest  ledges,  zigzagging  up  steep  slopes 
to  get  past  an  obstacle,  only  to  zigzag  down  again 
on  the  other  side,  or  splashing  up  the  rocky  bed  of 
the  torrent,  slipping  over  rocks  and  floundering  into 
treacherous  pools,  we  turn  a  corner,  and  find  the 
course  of  the  glen  becoming  more  easterly,  and  parallel 
with  the  main  range  which  lies  in  front  of  us. 

In  this  section  we  found  a  considerable  series  of 
terraces  in  the  lower  zones,  though  overhead  were  no- 
thing but  tremendous  precipices  and  angular  rocks.  It 
seemed  incredible  that  people  could  live  in  such  a  barren 
repellent  region,  shut  off  from  the  outside  world  for 
months  together  during  the  winter,  and  imprisoned 
in  their  houses  the  greater  part  of  that  time, 
during  which  they  have  to  depend  largely  on  their 
animals  for  the  necessary  warmth.  Their  persons 
eloquently  tell  their  tale  of  extreme  hardship  and 
scanty  living.  I  have  nowhere  seen  such  wizened, 
wrinkled  faces,  bleared  eyes,  and  stunted  figures. 
And  yet  even  here  the  Sultan's  government  is  the 
mountaineer's  worst  foe.  Nothing  can  escape  its  re- 
morseless exactions.  The  people  speak  of  a  time  when 
even  in  the  Wad  Iminnen  they  were  contented  and 
prosperous.  Xow  they  show  only  the  poorest  remnants 
of  fine  flocks  of  sheep  and  goats,  and  exhibit  the 
scanty  rags  that  cover  their  forms. 

These  poor  people,  hearing  we  were  the  bearers  of 
Sharifian  letters,  naturally  looked  upon  us  with  sus- 
picion as  probable  instruments  of  more  extortion,  and 


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THE  ASCENT  OE  THE  TJZI  LIKUMPT.         461 

■we  feared   that  they  would   drive  us  back,  as  not   in- 
frequently hapi^ens  to  the  tax-collectors. 

We  did  not  give  them  time  to  think  too  much, 
however,  but  hurried  on  at  a  break-neck  speed  for 
the  top  of  the  valley.  At  length,  five  hours  from 
Asni,  we  reached  our  goal  for  the  time  being,  at  a 
village  called  Tashdirt,  7560  feet  above  the  level  of 
the  sea.  Here  we  halted  to  hold  a  council  of  war. 
We  deemed  it  wise  not  to  wait  till  the  morrow  to 
make  the  ascent  of  the  Tizi,  but  to  strike  while  the 
iron  was  hot,  and  before  the  natives  made  up  their 
mind  what  course  to  take  in  regard  to  us. 

Taking  only  two  men  and  our  Asni  guide,  who  had 
shown  himself  a  capital  fellow,  we  pushed  on  at  once. 
After  crossing  the  stream,  we  commenced  the  ascent. 
We  had  not  proceeded  far  before  we  were  compelled  to 
dismount  from  our  mules.  For  a  time  we  held  on  to 
their  tails,  but  even  that  soon  proved  to  be  too  much 
lor  them,  and  we  had  to  rely  upon  our  own  unassisted 
efforts.  We  speedily  got  above  the  irrigated  lower 
zone,  where  a  scanty  crop  of  grass  helped  to  tone  down 
the  grey  desolation  of  the  rocks,  and  gave  some  sus- 
tenance to  a  few  flocks  of  sheep  and  goats,  whose 
melancholy  bloats  were  the  sole  sounds  which  told  of 
life.  '^I'he  path  to  the  pass  lay  up  a  dry  gully  which 
cut  through  the  overhanging  cliffs.  Fearing  to  be 
caught  in  the  darkness^  we  taxed  limb  and  lung  to  the 
uttermost,  and  struggled  persistently  upwards.  Even 
in  the  gully  it  was  impossible  to  keep  straight  up.  the 
slope  was  so  steep.      At  length,  by  dint  of  much  zig- 


462  MOROCCO. 

zagging  and  frequent  naonientavy  halts  to  regain  breath, 
we  reached  the  top  of  the  Tizi-Likumpt,  at  an  elevation 
of  13,150  feet.  Even  at  that  late  time  of  the  year 
we  found  ourselves  among  wreaths  of  snow.  The  view 
presented  to  our  gaze  well  repaid  us  for  our  extreme 
exertion,  apart  from  the  fact  that,  for  the  second  time, 
we  had  heaten  the  recoi'd  of  all  previous  travellers  in 
the  matter  of  height. 

Greatly  to  our  surprise,  we  found  the  head-stream  of 
the  Wad  Urika  flowing  in  a  deep  glen  in  front  of  us^ 
and  running  parallel  with  the  range  in  the  same  fashion 
as  the  upper  waters  of  the  Nyfis.  The  opposite  side  of 
the  Urika  glen  was  formed  by  a  second  lower  range  of 
mountains,  cutting  off  the  view  of  the  wild  region  of 
Tifnut,  which  we  had  expected  to  find  at  our  feet. 
We  got  a  glimpse  of  it,  however,  through  a  notch  in 
the  opposing  mountains. 

Looking  westward,  we  were  chiefly  struck  by  the 
unexpected  sight  of  a  magnificently  rugged  peak  tower- 
ing above  the  surrounding  heights  to  an  elevation  of 
quite  2  000  feet  above  our  point  of  view.  This,  we 
were  informed,  was  the  Tizi-n-Tamjurt.  Taking  into 
consideration  the  altitude  we  ourselves  had  attained, 
and  what  still  lay  above  us,  we  had  no  hesitation  in 
concluding  that  the  Tizi-n-Tamjurt  was  the  highest 
elevation  in  the  Atlas — certainly  not  less  than  i  5,000 
feet,  and  possibly  more. 

As  we  looked  around  and  noted  the  bewildering  and 
awe-inspiring  assemblage  of  snow-streaked  elevations, 
sharp  jagged  ridges,  and  deep  glens  and  gorges,  and 


THE  ASCENT  OE  THE   TIZI  LIKUMPT.         463 

remarked  also  the  geological  formation,  we  felt  assured 
that  we  were  on  the  oldest  part  of  the  range.  The 
predominance  of  metamorphic  and  igneous  rocks,  with 
their  gradual  replacement  by  sedimentary  formations 
to  east  and  west,  clearly  indicated  to  ray  mind  that 
here  had  been  the  nucleus  of  all,  and,  in  a  sense,  the 
focus  of  elevation.  When  all  else  had  been  sub- 
merged under  water,  the  highest  part,  say  some  five 
thousand  feet,  had  stood  out  as  an  island  in  a  cretaceous 
sea.  Around  it  had  been  deposited  the  limestones,  the 
shales,  and  the  sandstones  which  now  flank  it  on  every 
liand.  Then  in  a  later  period  had  come  the  great  earth 
movements  which  had  raised  the  Tizi  to  its  present 
proud  elevation,  and  tilted  and  folded  the  horizontal 
cretaceous  rocks  to  their  position  on  its  sides. 

We  had  little  time  for  reflection,  however,  and 
almost  as  little  to  look  around  and  fix  on  our  mind 
the  varied  aspects  of  the  scene.  On  the  north  side  of 
the  Tizi-u-Tanijnrt  we  could  trace  the  course  of  the 
Wad  Tisgi  glen  leading  from  the  Tizi-n-'^Fagharot.  We 
were  informed  that  near  the  Tizi-Nzaowt  a  mountain 
tarn  called  Ifri  was  situated,  in  which  were  large  fish. 
It  was  said  of  this  lake  that  if  stones  were  thrown  into  it 
great  storms  of  wind  immediately  arose.  A  somewhat 
similar  superstition  occurs  over  all  the  mountains  with 
regai'd  to  turning  over  stones  in  the  higher  elevations. 
After  completing  our  observations  for  altitude,  we 
hurried  back  at  a  break-neck  speed  to  reach  cam]i  before 
dark. 

We  had  reason  to  couLrrat  ulate  ourselves,  on  reaehin<r 


464  MOROCCO. 

oar  tents,  on  having  lost  no  time  in  making  the  ascent. 
The  mountaineers  had  become  suspicious  of  our  strange 
movements.  They  had  gathered  in  from  all  quarters 
to  demand  our  business  there.  Had  we  been  at  Tash- 
dirt  instead  of  on  the  top  of  the  mountain,  we  would 
have  been  ordered  back  at  once.  As  it  was,  we  were 
boycotted,  the  mountaineers  not  allowing  any  one  to 
sell  us  food,  and  letting  us  clearly  understand  that  we 
must  decamp  on  the  morrow. 

The  evening  was  distinguished  by  an  unnsiially  fine 
after-glow,  which  decked  the  stern  mountains  in  the 
most  beautiful  colours.  We  stood  watching  while  pink 
passed  into  purple  and  purple  became  sepia.  Dark- 
ness came  at  last,  and  then  we  turned  to  make  the 
best  of  our  position  for  the  night.  We  had  now  to 
consider  what  we  should  do  next.  That  we  had  to 
leave  Tashdirt  was  certain,  but  should  we  follow 
Hooker's  tracks  up  the  Ait  Mesan  valley  and  the 
Tizi-n-Tagharot  ?  Beyond  lay  the  most  tempting  dis- 
trict in  the  whole  of  the  Atlas  for  the  enterprising 
explorer.  There  was  the  highest  point,  and  there  the 
curious  mountain  lake  Ifri.  All  thhigs  considered, 
we  resolved  to  return  to  Asni.  The  deepest  loathing 
of  Atlas  travelling  had  taken  possession  of  us  for  the 
time  being,  due  for  the  most  part  to  our  eternal 
wrangling  with  our  men.  We  had  never  been  able 
to  repose  the  slightest  confidence  in  them.  We  had 
constantly  been  compelled  to  enact  the  part  of  slave- 
drivers,  while  their  laziness,  cowardice,  gluttony,  and 
treacherv    had    driven    us    nearlv  frantic.       With  the 


466  MOROCCO. 

main  cluiiu  was  masked  by  the  lower  ranges),  and  the 
characteristic  monotony  of  the  semi-sterile  and  almost 
uninhabitable  plain.  Wc  hailed  with  pleasure  the  sight 
of  an  olive  grove  or  a  passing  wayfarer. 

There  was  one  melancholy  procession  which  we 
viewed  with  interest.  This  was  a  caravaii  of  some 
forty  slave-girls,  fresh  from  their  savage  homes  in  the 
Sudan.      A  few  there  were  on  camel-back,  but  most  of 


WINNOVriNG    CORN. 


them  trudged  on  foot,  their  appearance  telling  of  the 
frightful  hardships  of  the  desert  route.  Hardly  a  rag 
covered  their  swarthy  forms.  These  were  the  only 
raw  slaves  we  saw  in  Morocco.  Though  they  had 
evidently  suffered  great  privations  and  hardships,  we 
could  not  say  that  they  were  treated  with  any  un- 
necessary cruelty. 


Till:  ASCHA'T  OF  THE  Tl/l  LIKUMPT.         467 

At  places  we  saw  couiilr\  iir'u  wiiniowiug  corn  by 
the  simple  process  oi"  throw  ing  it  up  in  the  air  with 
wooden  shovels,  and  letting  the  breeze  carry  off"  the 
chaff. 

At  the  Wad  Ivehira,  where  we  camped  on  our 
second  march  from  Amsmiz,  our  men  were  thrown 
into  great  alarm  by  the  contirmation  of  a  story  we 
had  heard  at  ]\lzuda,  that  the  province  of  Mtuga, 
through  which  we  talked  of  passing  on  our  way  to 
Mogador,  was  up  in  arms  and  divided  into  two  factions 
over  the  appointment  of  a  new  Kaid.  There  had  been 
no  end  of  burning,  and  murdering,  and  general  chaos. 
We  were  not  surprised  to  hear  through  Shalum,  that 
on  the  first  appearance  of  an  armed  force  our  Mogador 
men  meant  to  bolt,  and  not  risk  their  precious  lives  in 
our  company.  Meanwhile  we  were  meditating  a  little 
surprise  for  them. 

Oa  the  morning  of  the  8th,  two  hours  from  the 
Wad  Kehira,  we  reached  Imintanut,  and  camped  in  a 
grove  of  olives. 


(    468     ) 


CHAPTER  XXXI. 

THROUGH  SUS  TO  THE  COAST. 

At  Imintanut  lies  tlie  main  road  to  Tarudant,  the 
capital  of  Sus.  From  the  moment  we  had  landed  at 
Tangier,  we  had  heard  always  the  same  tale  of  the 
dangers  and  terrors  of  this  wild  land.  Every  one, 
native  or  foreigner,  had  with  one  accord  declared  it 
quite  impossible  even  to  enter  it.  We  had  made  no 
rash  vows  to  accomplish  this  so-called  "impossible" 
feat,  but  the  hope  of  doing  so  had  never  left  our 
minds.  We  had  not  been  able  to  carry  our  desires 
into  execution  either  at  Glauwa  or  at  Gindafy,  thanks 
largely  to  our  men ;  and  now,  if  it  had  to  be  done  at 
all,  it  must  be  from  Imintanut. 

We  resolved  accordingly  to  make  the  attempt.  Cir- 
cumstances were  unusually  unfavourable.  The  route 
lay  through  the  very  worst  of  the  disturbed  districts 
of  Mtuga.  Between  the  death  of  one  Kaid  and  the 
assumption  of  power  by  another,  law  and  order  are 
suspended,  it  being  a  standing  rule  that  no  action  can 
be  taken  on  whatever  happens  in  the  interval.  In 
the  case  of  Mtuga,  a  rebel  chief  had  taken  advantage 
of  the  prevailing  anarchy,  and  had  descended  upon  the 


THROUGH  SUS  to  the  coast.  469 

more  orderly  population  with  fire  and  sword.  If  by- 
accident  we  fell  into  the  clutches  of  either  party,  we 
might  expect  but  scant  shrift. 

That  our  men  suspected  some  such  enterprise  on 
our  part  became  evident  on  our  way  from  the  Wad 
Kehira  to  Iniintanut,  for  again  Abdul  Kader  became 
grievously  ill,  and  seemed  incapable  of  sitting  on  his 
mule.  On  our  arrival  in  camp,  he  came  to  tell  me  he 
was  going  to  die.  I  was  at  once  all  sympatliy  and 
tenderness,  and  asked  him  if  it  was  the  same  sickness 
as  he  had  in  Morocco.  He  replied  practically  that  it 
was  "  the  same,  only  more  so."  "  Very  well,"  I  added, 
"I  have  a  capital  cure  for  it,"  and  jumping  up  with 
an  air  of  great  wrath,  I  made  for  my  hunting-crop. 
His  pains  vanished  in  an  instant,  and  his  bent  back 
straightened  as  he  bolted  to  take  shelter  behind  his 
companions.  Deeming  castigation  to  be  unnecessary, 
I  called  him  forward,  and  in  the  most  emphatic  and 
deliberate  manner  warned  him  and  his  Mogador  com- 
panions to  be  very  careful  what  they  did  or  said  here. 
I  let  them  know  that  I  had  learned  all  tlieir  doings 
at  other  places,  and  I  swore  an  oath  that  if  by  word 
or  deed  they  tried  again  to  thwart  me,  I  should  not 
only  have  them  all  put  in  prison,  but  would  deprive 
them  of  their  four  months'  wages.  Of  course  there 
was  an  outburst  of  righteous  indignation  and  protesta- 
tion, to  all  of  which  I  listened  unmoved.  From  virtuous 
indignation  they  passed  to  the  venomous  wrath  of 
exposed  villains,  and  yelled  and  gesticulated  like  mad- 
men.     They  cursed  the  day  they  had  joined  us.     They 


470  MOROCCO. 

threatened  to  leave  us  at  once.  Very  unnecessarily 
tliey  told  us  that  if  they  had  had  the  thi-ee  Mogador 
men  we  dismissed  at  Saffi,  they  would  have  taught  us 
a  lesson. 

I  listened  smilingly  to  everything  they  said,  and 
even  told  them  I  should  not  attempt  to  stop  them  if 
they  pleased  to  go  away, — -only  they  need  never  hope 
to  enter  Mogador  again.  By  and  bye  the  noisy  effer- 
vescence of  their  rage  subsided  into  sullen  consultation 
among  themselves.  Abdarachman  strongly  urged  the 
others  to  desert.  Hadj  M'Hamad,  though  not  so  eager, 
was  willing  to  join  him  ;  but  Abdul  Kader  had  more 
sense,  and  elected  to  remain. 

This  scene  over,  we  set  off  to  interview  the  Sheik. 
We  could  not  tell  what  attitude  to  assume  till  we  had 
seen  our  man.  The  Sheik  himself  gave  us  the  cue, 
for  he  took  it  into  his  head  that  we  were  European 
officers  of  the  Sultan's  army  on  government  business. 
We  nursed  the  idea  assiduously,  and  assumed  an  arro- 
gant manner  appropriate  to  our  character.  We  ordered 
him  to  have  guides  provided  for  us  in  the  morning,  to 
conduct  us  on  our  way  to  Sus  and  Agadir.  He  re- 
ceived our  commands  with  suitable  humility  and 
acquiescence,  though  he  failed  not  to  warn  us  of  the 
dangerous  state  of  the  country.  We,  however,  only 
shrugged  our  shoulders,  and  announced  that  we  knew 
only  Allah  and  the  Sultan's  will.  What  else  could  we 
do  but  go  as  we  had  been  directed  ? 

To  keep  up  our  character  we  smiled  contemptuously 
at  the  viona  laid  before   us  as   if  we  would   say,  it  is 


THROUGH  SUS  TO  THE  COAST.  471 

fit  only  ior  our  clogs,  but  we  make  allowance  for  your 
poverty. 

On  leaving  the  Sheik  our  greatest  fear  was  that  our 
men  would  discover  the  character  we  had  assumed  on 
finding  it  conferred  on  us,  and  would  undeceive  him  ; 
but  happily  they  remained  in  ignorance  and  occupied 
themselves  with  surmises  as  to  what  our  route  was 
to  be  on  the  morrow.  I  had  been  careful  to  warn 
them  that  if  any  trouble  whatsoever  sprang  up  here 
I  should  place  it  to  their  credit  and  act  accordingly. 
The  warning  had  taken  the  desired  effect. 

Owing  to  the  disturbed  state  of  the  country  we 
had  to  be  on  the  alert  all  niofht,  though  we  had  a 
large  number  of  guards  posted  round  us  by  the 
Sheik. 

On  the  morning  of  the  9th  we  were  up  before  day- 
light. No  attack  had  been  made  on  us  by  marauders, 
and  nothing  had  happened  to  explode  the  sanguine 
hopes  of  the  evening  before. 

As  we  set  out  towards  the  mountains  it  was  with  a 
certain  amount  of  satisfaction  that  we  watched  the  dis- 
gusted and  sullen  faces  of  our  ]\[ogador  scoundrels.  The 
pious  Hadj  passionately  demanded  of  Allah  what  great 
crime  he  had  committed  that  he  should  be  doomed  to 
expiate  it  in  this  fashion.  Abdul  Kader  felt  the  iron 
hand  of  fate  lying  heavy  upon  him,  and  he  never  ceased 
muttering  "Allah  ti/f  Allah  tiff"  (God  help  me). 
Abdarachman,  more  bitter  and  malicious,  lagged  behind 
as  was  his  wont,  whacking  his  mule  as  if  it  had  been 
I   who  was   being  castigated,  and  cursing   the    animal 


472  MOROCCO. 

and  its  owner — an  amusement  with  wliicli  lie  had 
frequently  before  beguiled  the  tedium  of  the  road. 

The  Wad  Imintannt  escapes  from  the  mountains  by 
an  exceed ingl 3"  narrow  gorge  or  cleft,  wdiere  a  thick  bed 
of  compact  limestone  has  not  yielded  so  readily  to  the 
eroding  action  of  the  stream  and  rain.  Inside  this 
constriction  the  glen  rapidly  opens  out,  dividing  a  little 
distance  up  into  three  branches,  trending  respectively 
east,  south,  and  w^est.  It  was  the  western  branch  that 
we  chose  to  follow.  An  unusually  broad  and  easy  road 
conducted  us  up  the  bottom  of  the  small  valley. 

In  the  interval  of  cheering  our  men  with  suitable 
remarks  about  fate  and  submission  to  Allah's  decree, 
I  remarked  that  the  glen  of  the  Wad  Isserato  had 
been  excavated  along  the  line  of  junction  of  the  meta- 
phoric  series  with  the  outer  sedimentary  rocks.  On 
our  left  were  the  irregular  mountain  masses  of  the 
former,  and,  on  our  right,  forming  the  opposite  side 
of  the  glen,  was  a  lower  range  of  the  latter,  the  lime- 
stones capping  and  protruding  from  its  sides  like 
string-courses  of  masonry.  We  passed  for  ten  hours 
through  groves  of  almond  trees,  from  which  the  natives 
were  gathering  the  nuts.  Here  and  there  a  village, 
and  flocks  of  bleating  sheep  and  goats,  gave  some 
slight  variety  to  the  features  of  the  scene. 

Ten  miles  from  camp  we  reached  the  head  of  the 
Wad  Isserato.  We  then  turned  due  south  round  the 
shoulder  of  the  metamorphic  mountains,  the  series  here 
masked  by  overlying  red  sandstones.  This  brought 
us  into  the   irregular  valley  of  the  Wad   Msira,  whose 


THROUGH  SUS  TO  THE  COAST.  473 

red  glaring  sandstones  and  shales  showed  up  brightly 
among  tlie  trees  and  Lushes.  At  the  bottom  we 
found  a  sok  in  full  swing.  The  disturbed  condition 
of  the  country  was  well  illustrated  by  the  fact  that 
all  the  men  were  armed  with  knife  and  gun,  and  kept 
in  groups  according  to  their  villages,  ready  for  fight 
or  flight.  Our  own  position  was  too  precarious  to 
allow  of  a  halt.  A  malicious  cry  or  a  fanatical  curse 
would  have  been  sufficient  to  rouse  an  attack.  Evi- 
dently they  did  not  know  what  to  make  of  us,  but 
our  very  boldness  in  marching  through  them,  and  the 
presence  of  Zemrani  in  his  Government  fez,  suggested 
prudence  on  their  part.  Moreover,  the  two  factions 
who  had  reduced  Mtuga  to  chaos  were  here  in  force, 
and  were  fully  occupied  watching  each  other.  As  it 
was,  we  had  barely  left  the  place  when  a  fight  ensued 
with  bloody  results.  We  ourselves  had  more  to  fear 
from  parties  following  and  attacking  us  at  some 
favourable  spot,  and  to  avoid  this  if  possible  we  urged 
on  our  animals  to  their  utmost  speed,  our  ^[ogador 
men  not  the  least  active  in  pushing  forward. 

In  half  an  hour  we  crossed  the  glen  and  reached  a 
pass  on  the  opposite  side.  Here,  to  our  great  surprise, 
at  an  elevation  of  only  4750  feet,  we  found  ourselves 
on  the  watershed  of  the  range.  Before  us  and  trend- 
ing south  lay  a  glen  opening  into  a  broad  valley, 
whose  waters  undoubtedly  drained  into  the  Sus  River. 
In  front  of  us  from  where  we  stood  we  could  see  no 
higher  range.  On  our  left  the  mountains  attained  an 
estimated  elevation  of  between  6000   and   7000   feet, 


474  MOROCCO. 

and  on  onr  right  of  little  more  than  5000.  West- 
ward the  eye  roved  over  what  was  simply  a  plateau 
of  from  4000  to  5000  feet  in  height,  having  almost 
no  marked  elevations,  and  forming  the  provinces  of 
Mtuga  and  Haha.  As  I  remarked  these  facts,  I  felt 
assured  that  here  practically  was  the  end  of  the  Atlas 
as  a  range. 

Our  way  now  lay  down  the  glen.  We  found  that  it 
extended,  as  in  the  case  of  the  Isserato,  along  the  line 
of  junction  of  the  metamorphic  and  the  sedimentary 
rocks,  the  two  sides  of  the  rapidly  expanding  glen 
showing  their  characteristic  surface  features. 

As  we  continued  south,  at  first  over  boulder-strewn 
paths,  there  began  to  appear  in  the  haze  in  front  of  us 
the  outlines  of  a  range  of  mountains  which  were  grand 
in  massiveness,  height,  and  ruggedness,  so  that  we 
could  not  but  conclude  that  here,  after  all,  was  the 
true  continuation  of  the  Atlas.  Soon  we  were  able  to 
identify  the  dark  imposing  peak  due  south  as  the 
Jebel,  or  mountain  of  the  Ida  Mhamud  (^Ida,  like 
Ait,  Bcni,  and  Ulad,  means  tribe  or  sons  of),  while 
further  west,  and  cut  off  by  a  deep  depression,  lay  the 
less  conspicuous  mass  of  Ida  Uziki,  which,  followed 
westward,  could  be  seen  to  tail  off  and  become  ap- 
parently mei'ged  in  the  plateau  of  j\Ituga. 

The  first  part  of  our  way  down  the  glen  led  us  over 
a  very  broken  country,  in  which  only  a  few  almond- 
trees  found  sustenance,  the  staple  support  apparently 
of  the  inhabitants  of  a  couple  of  small  hamlets. 
Gradually,  however,  as  the  glen  opened  out  the  country 


THROUGH  SUS  TO  THE  COAST.  475 

became  more  even  and  less  rocky.  The  argan  tree, 
which  we  had  not  seen  since  we  left  Shiednia,  took  the 
place  of  the  almond.  IMany  curious  ilat-topped  mounds, 
remnants  of  former  river  banks,  or  it  may  be  of  lake 
debris,  protected  from  destruction  by  a  capping  of  con- 
solidated gravel,  formed  striking  features  in  the  land- 
scape. These  mounds,  the  huge  boulders  which  lay 
here  and  there,  the  prevalent  purple  colour  of  the 
scene,  as  well  as  the  general  aspect  of  sterility,  gave 
the  whole  valley  the  appearance  of  an  enormous  de- 
serted cjuarry  of  rod  rock.  On  one  of  these  isolated 
hills  we  discovered  some  remarkable  ruins,  which  we 
found  time  to  examine  in  spite  of  the  urgent  necessity 
to  hurry  on.  Towards  the  east  the  hill  presented  a 
steep  declivity,  surmounted  by  a  cliff,  while  westward 
it  sloped  away  irregularly.  Along  the  edge  of  the 
crag  ran  a  wall  some  eight  feet  thick,  forming  a  large 
enclosure  by  taking  in  all  the  upper  part  of  the  oppo- 
site slope.  At  the  southern  end  the  ridge  of  the  hill 
broadens,  and  here  seem  to  have  been  the  chief  build- 
ings. One  chamber  we  saw  was  little  more  than  six 
feet  square,  and  had  walls  as  many  feet  thick. 

From  the  "  Bnrj  Anscrrani,"  as  it  is  called,  the 
valley  rapidly  widened  out  and  presented  a  less  for- 
bidding aspect.  The  argans  were  now  more  common 
and  of  larger  growth,  there  were  greater  evidences  of 
cultivation,  and  we  passed  one  or  two  villages. 

Towards  sunset  wo  arrived  near  the  base  of  the  Ida 
Uziki  ISfountains.  These  we  calculated  attained  an 
altitude  of  over   6000    feet,   while    those    of  the    Ida 


476  MOROCCO. 

]\Iliainud   rose   undoubtedly  two  or  three  tliousand  feet 
higher. 

We  chose  as  our  camping-ground  a  sok,  where  there 
were  a  number  of  stone-built  shed  or  huts,  used  by  the 
cobblers,  &c.,  who  attend  the  markets.  As  we  had 
every  reason  to  fear  a  night  attack  we  did  what  we 
could  to  fortify  the  place,  and  disposed  ourselves  for 
defence,  though  we  knew  we  would  have  but  a  poor 
chance  if  any  onslaught  took  place. 

For  about  the  first  time  since  we  started  from  the 
coast  the  Mogador  men  did  not  grumble  at  a  lack  of 
food  ;  they  were  all  too  anxious  to  stow  themselves  so 
as  to  be  most  out  of  danger  in  the  event  of  trouble. 
Not  one  of  them  dai-ed  keep  a  look-out,  though  each 
kept  a  sleepless  watch  over  his  own  particular  self — 
ready  to  bolt  on  the  first  hint  of  danger.  Happily  the 
night  passed  without  any  disturbance,  and  wearied  at 
length  with  our  fifty-mile  ride  under  a  burning  sun,  we 
fell  asleep. 

We  were  on  the  road  again  by  dawn,  our  men 
showing  a  gratifying  alacrity  to  push  on  and  get  out 
of  the  troubled  district. 

Not  far  from  camp  the  main  road  to  Sus  deviates. 
One  branch  crosses  the  Ida  Uziki  Mountains  and  the 
Pass  of  Bibawan  to  Tarudant ;  the  other  passes  into 
Sus  by  an  easier  westerly  route.  Unaware  of  this  fact, 
and  not  apprised  by  Shalum,  on  whom  we  depended, 
we  found  ourselves  a  couple  of  hours  beyond  the 
former  route  before  we  knew.  Not  deeming  it  of  any 
consequence,  we  continued  our  way. 


THROUGH  SUS  TO  THE  COAST.  477 

Our  way  now  trended  mure  south-westerly,  skirting 
the  base  of  the  rapidly  tailing-out  range.  The  escarp- 
ment of  the  Mtuga  plateau  on  our  right  closed  in  upon 
us  once  more. 

Some  three  hours  from  camp,  the  Wad  Ait  JSlusa, 
formed  by  the  united  streams  of  the  valley,  suddenly 
turned  due  south,  disappearing  in  a  deep  gorge  or  cleft 
of  the  range.  We  still,  however,  continued  our  way 
along  the  mountains,  as  there  was  no  practicable  path 
by  the  narrow  gorge.  At  this  section  wo  could  hardly 
consider  ourselves  happy,  for  the  Ait  Musa  were  the 
chief  leaders  in  the  Mtuga  rebellion.  On  asking  some 
people  at  one  village  who  their  Kaid  was,  we  were 
answered  that  "  they  were  under  God,"  meaning  that 
they  had  no  Kaid.  This  was  not  an  agreeable  state 
of  affairs  for  us,  and  we  hurried  on  as  rapidly  as  pos- 
sible. The  low  altitude  we  had  now  reached  was  evi- 
denced by  the  appearance  of  date-palms,  which  formed 
a  pleasing  element  in  the  scene. 

At  mid-day  we  crossed  from  the  basin  of  the  Ait 
Musa  into  the  smaller  one  of  the  Asif  Ig,  and  an 
hour  and  a  half  later  we  camped,  with  some  feeling  of 
security,  at  the  Zawia  or  sanctuary  of  El  Batmi,  and 
under  the  protection  of  a  descendant  of  the  saint. 

The  morning  opened  with  our  men  in  a  delightfully 
nervous  condition — not  that  we  ourselves  were  quite 
free  of  apprehension,  for  the  dreaded  region  of  Sus  was 
now  to  be  entered.  For  an  hour  we  descended  the 
broken  valley  of  the  Azif  Ig,  whose  hilly  irregularities 
gave  us  glimpses  of  the  great  plain  and  the  bounding 


478  MOROCCO. 

heights  i'ar  beyoud.  From  one  elevatiou  we  even  got 
a  distant  view  of  the  celebrated  town  of  Tarudant. 
There  is  no  wilder  land  in  Northern  Africa  than  this 
province  of  Sus.  For  centuries  its  fanatical  Arab  tribes 
have,  with  more  or  less  success,  retained  their  inde- 
pendence— at  no  time  wholly  subdued,  as  at  no  time 
completely  free  of  the  Sharifian  shackles.  Never-ending 
revolts  and  petty  wars,  invasions,  and  all  manner  of 
treacheries,  have  been  its  history.  Only  eight  years 
ago  the  present  Sultan  succeeded  by  force  of  arms,  but 
chiefly  by  the  grossest  treachery,  in  establishing  his 
authority  over  the  greater  part  of  the  province  ;  but 
ever  since  there  has  been  a  continued  series  of  mas- 
sacres and  murders,  and  no  traveller  has  left  its  borders 
without  a  new  tale  of  bloodshed. 

In  no  other  region  either  has  Mohammedanism 
shown  itself  so  aggressive  and  exclusive.  "  Death  to 
the  infidel "  is  said  still  to  be  the  favourite  cry ;  and 
it  was  deemed  an  impossibility  for  a  Christian  to 
venture  within  its  borders  undisguised. 

The  same,  however,  had  been  said  about  the  greater 
part  of  the  Atlas,  and  yet  everywhere  we  had  shown 
ourselves,  without  serious  results,  in  our  customary 
European  clothes. 

We  resolved  not  to  discard  them  now,  but  in  our 
proper  characters  face  the  fate  in  store  for  us.  In 
such  countries  as  we  were  travelling  in,  audacity  even 
to  rashness  is  frequently  one's  greatest  safeguard. 

As  we  descended  the  Asif  Ig,  very  much  on  the 
alert  and  ready  for  action,  it  became   evident  that  we 


THROUGH  SUS  to  the  coast.  479 

were  entering  an  unusually  trouljlcd  region.  Way- 
farers coming  suddenly  in  sight  of  us  invariably 
halted,  and,  while  they  reconnoitred  us,  grasped  their 
guns  like  men  accustomed  to  incessant  warfare.  Some 
took  up  positions  behind  rocks  or  trees,  others  dis- 
appeared altogether. 

These  last  we  liked  least  of  all,  for  we  did  not  know 
but  that  their  salute  might  be  a  bullet  from  some  in- 
accessible place  on  the  hill-side.  As  a  rule  we,  for  our 
part,  held  straight  on,  and  showed  that  we  at  least 
were  peaceably  disposed. 

Nothing  more  unpleasant  happened  in  our  descent  of 
the  glen  till  coming  near  the  plain  we  got  into  parley 
with  a  traveller,  and  heard  to  our  dismay  that  the  power- 
ful Arab  tribe  called  Howara  were  up  in  revolt.  Only 
that  morning  they  had  swooped  down  on  a  caravan 
camped  at  the  village  of  Mskorod,  half  a  mile  from 
where  we  stood,  and  plundered  it  of  many  camels.  If 
they  did  that  to  true  believers,  what  would  they  do 
to  Kaffirs  like  ourselves  ?  The  question  was  one  which 
did  not  admit  of  a  pleasing  response.  We  could  only 
cheer  ourselves  and  our  men  with  the  remark  that  "  we 
were  in  the  hands  of  Allah,"  and  in  His  name  we  re- 
solved to  go  forward.  For  the  moment  we  thought 
of  pushing  on  at  once  to  Agadir,  but  a  sight  of  our 
mules,  and  the  knowledge  that  we  were  still  nearly 
forty  miles  from  that  place,  made  us  aware  that  that 
was  impossible.  We  therefore  decided  to  seek  shelter 
and  protection  in  the  Kasbah  of  the  Kaid  of  the 
Msgina,    a    tribe  of  the    Shellach.      This   seemed  like 


4So  MOROCCO. 

jumping  from  the  frying-pau  into  tlie  fire,  as  the  re- 
volt of  the  Howara  was  chiefly  directed  against  the 
Kaid  of  the  Msgina,  but  we  saw  no  other  course  to 
pursue. 

We  spurred  on  our  jaded  animals  accordingly,  pass- 
ing over  an  argan-clad  and  crust-bound  sloping  plain 
resembling  Shiedma  in  its  general  character.  Here 
and  there  we  saw  parties  of  armed  men  hurrying  about, 
and  we  were  kept  in  continual  apprehension  lest  they 
should  fall  foul  of  us. 

At  length  we  caught  sight  of  a  very  unpretentious 
Kasbah.  We  could  not  see  a  soul  about  the  place, 
and  we  began  to  think  that  the  stories  of  a  contem- 
plated attack  on  it  by  the  Howara  were  all  nonsense. 
No  sooner,  however,  had  we  pulled  up  our  animals  near 
the  principal  entrance  than  we  found  ourselves  sur- 
rounded by  over  fifty  wild-looking  armed  men,  who 
seemed  to  spring  from  the  very  ground,  so  sudden  and 
unexpected  was  their  appearance  from  their  places  of 
concealment. 

An  ambuscade  had  clearly  been  laid  for  us,  and  we 
expected  the  worst.  Bonich  for  the  moment  lost  all 
powers  of  speech,  and  sat  silent  till  I  shouted  to  him 
to  ask  for  the  Kaid,  and  announce  us  as  bearers  of 
letters  from  the  Sultan.  This  he  contrived  to  do  in 
a  timid,  hesitating  manner,  which  tended  very  much 
to  rouse  my  wrath.  A  few  minutes  of  unpleasant  un- 
certainty ensued,  and  then  the  Kaid  appeared  with  a 
great  following  of  soldiers,  with  whom  the  seemingly 
empty  Kasbah  was  filled.     We  thought  matters  looked 


THROUGH  SUS  TO   THE  COAST.  481 

nasty  when  ho  cast  only  a  furtive,  suspicious  glance 
at  us,  and  did  not  even  deign  to  look  at  the  Sultan's 
letter.  At  length,  in  brusque  tones  he  ordered  ns  to 
come  inside  ;  and  inside  we  went,  very  much  as  if  we 
were  marching  to  a  dungeon  or  a  scafi'old.  C.-B.  and 
I  were  shown  into  a  court  half  filled  with  soldiers, 
while  the  others  wore  conducted  elsewhere.  Nobody 
offered  to  take  charge  of  our  horses,  and  we  could  not 
leave  them.  Minute  after  minute  passed  and  still  nobody 
came  to  our  assistance.  The  sun  was  blazing  hot,  and 
the  situation  was  anything  but  in  accord  with  our 
dignity  and  importance.  All  sorts  of  unpleasant  ideas 
passed  through  our  heads.  For  all  we  knew,  we  might 
be  prisoners.  By  and  bye,  however,  we  contrived  to 
get  away,  and,  to  our  unbounded  indignation,  found 
Bonich  and  our  men  amusing  themselves  showing  the 
Kaid  our  rifles.  We  now  found  our  fears  quite 
groundless,  for  our  entertainment,  though  rude,  was 
lavish  and  hospitable. 

The  Raid's  father  had  been  shot  six  months  before 
by  the  Ilowara,  on  which  occasion  he  had  himself  got 
a  bullet  through  his  shirt.  The  Howara,  however,  had 
vowed  to  do  their  work  properly  the  next  time,  and 
were  now  collecting  to  besiege  him  in  his  Kasbah. 
Our  reception  derived  its  cordiality  from  the  fact  that 
the  unhappy  Kaid  took  us  for  ]^Juropean  officers  of  the 
Sultan,  and  he  was  anxious  to  get  a  medium  whereby 
to  convey  his  troubles  to  his  master. 

Under  the  circumstances,  wo  deemed  it  foolhardy 
to  think  of  venturing  to  Taruchnit,  and  resolved  to  get 

2  II 


482  MOROCCO. 

out  of  this  tlangerons  region  as  quickly  as  possible. 
We  were  kept  in  the  greatest  apprehension  lest  we 
shonld  be  beleagnerecl  in  the  castle.  All  night  long 
the  garrison  remained  under  arms,  but  the  expected 
night-attack  did  not  come  off.  Shortly  after  day- 
break, the  Howara  not  having  been  seen  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood, we  left  for  Agadir,  escorted  by  the  Raid's 
brother  and  several  soldiers.  We  retraced  our  steps 
to  near  the  foot  of  the  plateau  of  Mtuga,  the  Atlas 
range  having  ended  at  the  Asif  Isf. 

Pushing  on  without  molestation,  it  was  delightful 
to  see  the  returning  courage  of  our  men  as  each  half 
hour  took  us  a  couple  of  miles  nearer  Agadir  and 
away  from  the  disturbed  region. 

At  mid-day  we  descried  Agadir  gleaming  like  a  snow- 
cap  on  an  isolated  precipitous  hill  with  the  blue 
Atlantic  beyond.  In  an  hour  and  a  half  we  were  on 
the  glistening  yellow  sands,  delighted  to  listen  once 
more  to  the  ocean  rollers  and  feel  its  cool  breezes. 
Here  our  escort  stopped,  as  their  Kaid  was  not  on 
good  terms  with  the  ruler  of  this  southern  stronghold 
of  the  Moorish  empire.  In  bidding  the  leader  good- 
bye, Hadj  effusively  kissed  his  hands,  calling  on 
Allah  to  bless  him  and  his  for  what  they  had  done 
for  us.  No  sooner  were  their  backs  turned  than,  his 
benign  expression  changing  to  that  of  a  coward's  hatred, 
he  shook  his  fist  at  the  retreating  troop  and  exclaimed, 
"  May  God  send  you  the  Sultan,"  meaning  thereby 
ruin  and  desolation,  for  nothing  else  ever  follows  the 
Sharifian  path. 


THROUGH  sus  ro  the  coast.  483 

Agadir,  till  the  end  of  last  century,  was  a  prosperous 
port,  frequented  hy  numerous  vessels  and  merchants  of 
all  nations.  T(j-day  it  is  closed,  and  only  known  as 
a  stronghold  built  by  the  Portuguese  in  the  days  of 
their  ascendancy  on  the  coast,  and  as  a  thorn  in  the 
side  of  Sus  ;  not  now  adding  to  its  wealth  and  pros- 
perity, but  serving  as  an  instrument  to  carr\^  out  the 
Sharifian  policy  of  grinding  down  the  wild  tribes  to 
their  proper  level.  Everybody  now  leaving  or  enter- 
ing Sus  mnst  pass  over  the  i  20  miles  of  stony  road 
which  runs  along  the  coast  from  Agadir  to  Mogador 
By  this  means  the  Sultan  hopes  to  keep  a  check  on 
the  importation  of  arms  and  gunpowder,  and  on  the 
growth  of  wealth.  This  is  but  one  of  a  hundred 
striking  instances  of  Moorish  imbecility  and  incapacity 
for  governing.  The  opening  of  the  port  would  do 
more  to  pacify  the  ever-bubbling  passions  of  the  Sus 
tribes  than  the  bloodshed  and  ruin  produced  by  half 
a  dozen  such  armies  as  the  Sultan  can  dispatch  against 
them. 

After  a  day's  rest  to  our  animals,  we  pushed  on  to 
Mogador  on  the  I3tli.  In  three  mai'ches,  over  country 
which  we  need  not  describe,  we  reached  the  ]^alm-Tree 
House,  where  we  stayed  for  the  night,  and  next  morn- 
ing, on  the  I  7th  of  September,  re-entered  IMogador. 

Our  first  business  was  to  get  rid  of  our  ^logador 
servants  before  resuming  our  way  north.  We  would 
gladly  have  put  them  in  prison,  but  as  tliey  admitted 
having  acted  badly,  and  we  were  not  desirous  of  further 
worry,  we  paid  them  their  wages  and  let  them  go  free. 


484  MOROCCO. 

It  was  not  till  tlie  6th  of  October  that  we  left 
Mogador  en  route  for  Fez  by  way  of  Casablanca  and 
Rabat.  Our  plan  was  to  make  the  northern  capital 
a  centre  of  exploration  for  the  surrounding  region  as 
Maraksh  had  been  for  the  western  part  of  the  Atlas. 
On  the  1 3th  we  entered  Casablanca.  Hardly  were 
we  installed  once  more  under  the  roof  of  Arturo  Pitto 
before  a  dispatch  was  placed  in  my  hands,  which  at 
once  altered  all  my  plans.  An  expedition  to  the  relief 
of  Emin  Pasha  was  more  to  my  mind  than  the  explora- 
tion of  Morocco,  and  I  did  not  hesitate  for  a  moment 
in  my  decision. 

Next  morning  a  steamer  loaded  with  grain  was 
leaving  for  Tangier,  and  I  took  passage  thither,  pre- 
paratory to  sailing  for  England.  Mr.  Crichton-Browne, 
now  a  full-fledged  traveller,  continued  overland  by  way 
of  Mequinez  and  Fez  to  Tangier,  and  so  ended  our 
travels  in  the  Atlas  and  Southern  Morocco. 


INDEX. 


Abda,  province  of,  52,  iiS 
Achliz,  446 
Adrar-n-Iri,  201,  204 
Agadir,  437,  4S3 
Aid  el  Kebir,  393 
Ait  Mesan,  456,  457,  464 
Ait  Humwali,  241 
Akermut,  6 1,  63 
Auistniz,  2S0 

Jews  of,  283 

population  of,  2S3 

return  to,  319,  465 

town  of,  282 

valley,  285 
Anti- Atlas,  211,  234,  236 
Antimony,  23S 
Arabs,  38,  II9 
Arar,  61,  235 
Architecture,    Moorish,     18,    25, 

346-356 
Argan-tree,  61,  92,  97,  475 
Art,  Moorish,  degeneracy  of,  376 
Asif  Adrar-n-Iri,  212,  213 
Asif  el  Mel,  322 
Asni,  455 

Atlas,  elevation  of,  205,  207,  234, 
236,  243,  301,  344,  462 
first  view  of,  62 
near  aspect  of,  139 
panorama  of,   123,   172,    189, 

342.  4P 
termination  of,  474,  482 
Azamor,  46 


Basalt  dykes,  137,  141,  143,  162, 

179.  455 
Berbers,  sec  Shellach 
I'led  Hummel,  province  of,  1 18 
Boar-hunting,  79-87 
15onich,  M.,  133 
Bread-baking,   185 
Burj  Anserrani,  the,  475 

Cafe,  a  Moorish,  5 

Calitris,  61 

Carpets,  Moorish,  38 

Casablanca,  32 

Caves,  i8r,  237 

Charms,  425 

Child-marriages,  159,  254,  284 

Children,  ^loorisli,  23 

Christians,  ancient,  ."re  Rum 

Costume,  Jewish,  417,  422 
Moorish,  148 
of  mountaineers,  20S 
of  mountain  Jews,  253 
women's,  74.  384 

Courtyard,  a  Raid's.  54 

Crichton-Browne,     Mr.     Harold, 
14,  121,  149,  311,  405 

Daisy,  blue,  291 

Dancing,  IMoorish,  257-261,  391 

Decoration,  Moorisii,  iS,  25,  131 

152-  374 
Denmat,  approach  to,  1.^4 
caves  at,  164 


4S6 


INDEX. 


Demnat,  Jews'  (|u;u-tcr  of,  157 

Kaid  of,  150 

Kaid  of,  audicnco  with,  1 51 

Kasbah  of,  151,  154 

valley  of,  160 

women  of,  156 
Dukkala,  Southern,  51,  52 

El  Glauwi,  220,  225 
attendants  of,  229 
interview  with,  220 
Kasbah  of,  215,  218,  231 
Enzel,  village  of,  197,  19S 
Escort,  rapacity  of,  95 

trouble  with,   93,    loS,    in, 
113,    122,    125,    135,    177, 
196,    224,    238,    274,  328, 
444,  469 
Eupliorhiu  rcsinijcra,  168 
Exclusiveness,  Moorish,  29 

Fanaticism,  Moorish,  76-78,  266, 

404 
Feast,  a  Moorish,  268 
Feats  on  horseback,  410 
Fountains,  357 
Fundak,  41 
Funeral,  a  Moorish,  24 

Gadat,  glen  of,  197-211 
Geology,   277,  300,  307,  322,  323, 

44S,  457,  463,  472 
Gibraltar,  i 
Gindafy,  pi-ovince  of,  30S 

Kaid  of,  310 
Glaciation,    traces    of,    2IO,    276, 

279.  319,  326 
Glauwa,  Kaid  of,  see  El  Glauwi 

province  of,  142 
Goats  climbing  trees,  92 
Government,  Moorish,  232,  436 

effects  of,  228 
Great  Feast,  the,  393 
Green,  Sir  W.  Kirby,  16 
Gurguri,  279,  465 


11a II A,  Kasbah  of,  93 
JIanimum,  the,  386 
Harem,  a,  344 
Hawking,  59,  232 
Holiday,  a  Moorish,  255 
Hooker,  Sir  Joseph,  14 
Houses,  373,  348 
House-tops,  the,  429 
Howara,  revolt  of,  479 
Hunot,  Mr.,  59,  441 

Ida  Mhamud  mountains,  476 
Ida  Uziki  mountains,  475 
Ifri,  mountain  lake  of,  463 
Imiiiifiri,  natural  bridge  at,  164 
Imintanut,  district  of,  467,  468 
Imintella,  294 
Immorality,  Moorish,  226 
Insect  pests,  324 
Irghalnsor,  ascent  of,  170 
Iron-mines,  exploration  of,  104 
Iron  Mountains,  see  Jebel  Hadid 
Irrigation,  native  skill  in,  136,  162 

Jebel  Asif  Sig,  446 

Glauwi,  201,  205 

Hadid,  61,  93,  97 

Hadid,  ascent  of,  99 

Hadid,  camp  at,  98 

Hadid,  geology  of,  106 

Hadid,  view  from,  100 

Ogdimt,  32S-345 

Tezah,  301 
Jewish  women,  71,  422 
Jews,  condition  of,  414-428 

dress  of,  sec  costume 

dwellings  of,  186 

hospitality  of,  425 

mountain,  249 

ophthalmic    disease    among, 
158,  423 

over-crowding  among,  424 

of  Amsmiz,  2S3 

of  Mogador,  70,  71 

of  Tabugumt,  238 


INDEX. 


487 


Jew.s,  past  per.secutidii  uf,  427 

usury  of,  418 
Justice,  Muorisl),  412 

Kaskuia,  361 
Kuba,  49,  58 
Kuskussu,  56 
Kutubiii,  tower  of,  123,  138,  353 

Lau  kl  Bakud,  407-410 

Mauossa,  323 

IManun,  Asif,  237 

Mazagan,  46 

Mtdiiiali,  68,  421-426 

JNlfllah,  69,  421-426 

Metaiuores,  5 1 

Misfiwa,  province  of,  137 

Mitfirus,  51 

Mlitsin,  431 

Mugailor,  arrival  at,  64 
climate  of,  66 
departure  from,  90 
description  of,  67,  6S,  69. 
first  view  of,  62 
Mellah  at,  69 
procession  at,  75-78 
sand-dunes  of,  91 

Mohammedanism,  435 

JVIona,  51,  55,  129,  446,  453 

Morocco,  city  of,  346 
approach  to,  126 
bazaars  of,  359 
first  impressions  of,  130 
first  start  from,  136 
general  sketch  of,  I30~I33 
Kasbah  of,  350 
Mellah  of,  423 
mosques  of,  34S,  353 
our  quarters  at,  127,  373 

Morocco,  Plain  of,  124,  138 
population  of,  350 
view  of  Atlas  from,  430 

Morocco,    empiio,    government 
of,  436 


Morocco,  policy  of,  440 

prisons  of,  25,  417 

prospects  of,  442 
IMoutHon,  232 
Msgina,  Kaid  of,  480 
Mtiiga,  93,  46S 
Mueddin,  10 

Mules,  sure-footeihiess  of,  199,  206 
Mullai  Hassan  Mountains,  93 
Musicians,  itinerant,  380 

OuDiMT,  Jebel,  304,  328-345 

Payton,  Mr.,  64,  66,  79,  441 
Portuguese  remains,  48,  59,  116 
Powder-play,  407-413 
Prisons,  25,  417 

Rahamna,  mountains  of,  1 1 9,  124 
Ramadan,  224 
Ratto,  Mr.,  66,  79 
Reception  of  Kaids,  400 
Religion,  Jewish,  426 

Moorish,  226,  434 
Religious  procession,  72-78 
Reraya,  454 

Rum,  remains  of,    169,  182,   187, 
229,  237,  291,  293 

Saffi,  approach  to,  58 

climate  of,  1 16 

departure  from,  1 1 7 

palace  at,  114 

second  visit  to,  114 
Salutations,  Moorish,  37 
School,  a  Moorish,  16 
Shalum,  134,  167 
Shawia,  38,  58 
Shellacli,  characteristics  of,  155 

condition  of,  228,  460 

costume  of.  208 
Shellach,  dwellings  of,  1 87,  208 

industry  of,  208 

villages  of,  1S7,  201,  ^}},  45S 
Shiedma,  province  of,  61,  95 
Sidi  Aissa,  60,  72 


488  INDEX. 

Sidi  Buzarktan   62 

Hamadslia,  72 

Rehal,  138 

Yakub,  63,  102 
Slave  caravan,  a,  466 
Snake-chariuing,  295,  367 
Sok,  97,  197,  446 
Soldier,  a  Moorish,  34 
Spartel,  Cape,  32 
Srarna,  province  of,  142 
Stoning  at  Morocco,  404 
Sultan,  letter  of,  31 
Sus,  province  of,  47S 

Tabia,  154,  202 
Tabugumt,  reception  at,  238 
Tachnowt,  454 
Tajen,  56 
Takat,  97,  99 
Tangier,  arrival  at,  3 

Kasbah,  the,  15 

market-place,  the,  21 

Marshan,  view  from  the,  27 

streets,  the,  21 
Tarudant,  468 
Tashdirt,  461,  465 
Tasimset,  174 

route  to,  179 

waterfall  at,  iSi 

caves  at,  181 
Taurirt,  ascent  of,  241 
Teluet,  caves  at,  237 

climate  of,  233 

crossing  the  pass  of,  211-214 

Kasbah  of,  215,  218 

pass  of,  237 

population  of,  235 

reception  at,  215 

valley  of,  212-234 

view  from  pass,  211 
Tensift,  river,  60,  124. 

fording  of,  109 


Tetuan,  28 

Tezert,  192,  193 

Tifnut,  223,  462 

Tizi  Likumpt,  ascent  of,  456-467 

Nemiri,  302,  305 

Nslit,  332 

n-Tamjurt,  462 

Ulad  Di.i.m,  district  of,  120 
Urika,  137,  444-455 
Usury  of  Jews,  418 

Viceroy,  the,  396 
Villages,  ruined,  92,  30I 

Wad  Agandice,  313 

Amsmiz,  292 

Bra,  142,  212 

El  Mulha,  197 

Gadat,  137,  197 

luiinnen,  456 

Isserato,  472 

Kseb  or  Diabat,  92 

Misfiwa,  137 

Msira,  473 

^>fis,  318,  333,  337 

Reraya,  454 

Tedili,  143 

Tensift,  60,   136,  212 

Tessaout,  142,  189 

Urika,  137 
Wedding,  a  Jewish,  7 

a  Moorish,  24 
Wells,  Moorish,  41 
Winnowing,  467 
Wishdan,  Mountains  of,  303,  304, 

3'3.  315 
Women,  Jewish,  71,  157 

Moorish,  23,  131,  378,  382 

Zawia,  107 

of  Bin  Mahida,  107 
Zarktan,  196,  201 


GEORGE    PHILIP   AND   SON,    LONDON    AND    LIVERPOOL. 


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A     SELECTED     LIST     OF     WORKS 

PuiJLisiiED  BY  GEORGE  PHILIP  &  SON. 


JUST  PUBLISHED, 

Medium  8vo.  in  handsome  Illustrated  cloth  cover,  bevelled  boards, 
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THE  FIRST  ASCENT  OF  THE  KASAl 

in:iN(;  some  uecokds  of  service 

UNDER  THE   LONE   STAR. 

By  CHARLES  SOMERVILLE  LATROBE  BATEMAN, 

iSometime  Captain  and  Adjutant  of  Gendarmerie  in  the 
Congo  Free  State. 

Profusely  Illustrated  with  Etchings,  Cliromo-lithographs,  and  Wood 

Engravings  (Fifty-seven  in  all),  I\ei)roduced  from  the 

Author's  Original  Drawings, 

AND    ACCOMPANIKl)   BY 

Two  Large  Scale  Maps  Printed  in  Colours. 


Opinions  of  the  Press. 

"A  hi,L;hly  interesting  and  beautifully  illustrated  narrative." — Times. 

"Jlr.  Uateman  is  as  skilful  with  the  pen  as  he  is  with  his  brush  and 
pencil ;  his  style  is  aninnited,  and  his  verbal  descriptions  are  quite  ou  a 
par  with  his  pictures." — Atlieiia'um. 

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and  civilise  savage  regions,  but  to  chronicle  his  adventures  in  tliem.  AVe 
do  not  know  whether  to  admire  most  his  energy,  his  indomitable  i)luck, 
his  practical  common  sense,  his  modesty,  bis  rigid  sense  of  duty,  or  liis 
burning  zeal  fur  the  regeneration  of  long-degraded  races  of  his  fellow- 
men.'"— ,SV(/inv/i-r//  Jid'icw. 

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and  its  pages  present  an  excellent  picture  of  life  in  a  corner  of  the 
Congo  Free  State,  and  of  death  too  ;  for  in  Africa  as  elsewhere,  the 
foundations  even  of  relatively  slight  improvements  are  the  lives  of  men." 
— Spectator. 

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the  Congo  State.'' — Nature. 


JUST  PUBLIHUEl),  MoUnm  Sco. 

THE  UNKNOWN  HORN  OF  AFRICA. 

An  Exploration  from  Berbera  to  tlu  Leopard  River. 
r.v  F.  L.  JAMES,  M.A., 

Author  of  "  Willi  Tribes  of  the  Soudan." 

"With  AiUUtioiis  by  J.  Godfrey  Thuupp,  M.K.C.S.  ; 

the  Map  by  AV.  D.  Jaxies  and  Percy  Aylmer  ; 

the  Narrative  Illustrations  by  Rose  Hakk  ; 

and  the  Drawings  of  the  Fauna  by  K.  Keulejian,  from  Sj)eciuieu8 

chiefly  collected  by  E.  LoRT-l'HiLLir.s. 

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James's  expedition  was  one  of  unusual  hazard,  but  it  was  completely 
successful.  .  .  .  The  entire  get-up  of  the  volume  is  highly  creditable." 
— Times. 

"A  book  to  pleise  every  one— good  to  handle,  entertaining  to  peruse, 
and  delightful  to  look  at." — Whitehall  Review. 

"A  book  done  as  books  should  be." — Speetat  iv. 

"The  public  owe  Mr.  James  and  his  companions  a  distinct  debt  of 
gratitude." — Satanlui/  lie  view. 


Poyal  8vo,  cloth,  with  Portrait  and  Map,  price  IGs. 

EMIN  PASHA  IN  CENTRAL  AFRICA. 

Letters  and  Journals  Collected  and  Annotated 

BY 

Du.  SCHWEINFURTH,  Dr.  RATZEL,  Dr.  G.  IIARTLAUB, 
and  Dr.  FELKIN. 

The  only  existing  Record  of  Emin  Pasha's  Life  and  Work  in  Central 
Africa. 

"  This  volume  is  a  record  of  the  highest  tyi)e  of  exploring  work.    Every 
page  abounds  with  interest." — Times. 


GEORGE  PHILIP  &  SOX,  Publi.shers,  London  and  Liverpool. 


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ACROSS    AFRICA, 


BY 

VERNEY  LOVETT  CAMERON,  C.V,.,  D.C.L., 

COMMA.NUKU,    KOYAL   N.WY  ; 

tioltl  McduUi.st,  Roy;il  CJeograi>liiciil  Soeiuty,  kc. 
WITH    NUMEROUS    ILLUSTRATIONS. 

■fl^ew  BDition. 

ir/T//  NEW  AND  ORIGINAL  MATTER,  AND  CORRECTED  MAI'. 

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"  Nutliiiiij  beyond  the  mention  of  the  fact  will  Ijc  necessary  to  secure 
a  favourable  reception  to  the  re-i.s.sue  in  a  popular  form  of  Conunander 
Cameron'.s  '  Across  Africa.'  Though  much  has  hai)pened  since  the 
story  was  first  written  it  is  not  out  of  date.  Into  a  considerable  por- 
tion of  the  Dark  Continent  traversed  by  the  author  no  other  white  man 
has  yet  penetrated,  and  what  has  occurred  has  rather  tended  to  give 
additional  interest  to  all  African  exploration.  In  this  edition  Com- 
mander Cameron  does  justice  to  the  explorations  of  Mr.  Stanley  in  the 
Congo  Basin,  of  Mr.  Johnston  in  the  Kilimanjaro  district,  and  the 
Portuguese,  Italian,  and  Cernian  travellers.  IJut  the  most  important 
l)art  of  the  added  matter  has  reference  to  the  commercial  openings  now 
inviting  British  energy  and  capital  in  Africa." — Daili/  Tclq/raph. 

"  In  a  second  edition  of  '  Across  Africa,'  Commander  Cameron  sum- 
marises the  results  of  exploration  in  the  Dark  Continent  since  his  own 
expedition  in  lS7t),  and  offers  some  valuable  suggestions  as  to  the 
future  of  African  travel  and  commerce.  Subsequent  discoveries,  it  is 
well  known,  have  mainly  gone  to  confirm  Comnumder  Cameron's  anti- 
cipations, notably  in  the  identitication  of  the  Lualaba  and  the  Congo. 
The  precise  nature  of  the  Lvikuga  river,  or  creek,  is  still,  however,  a 
battle-ground  between  geographers." — A cailcini/. 

GEORGE  riULir  iS:  SON,  I'lbusukus,  Lu.nuon  and  Liveiu'uol. 


Uccbntcal  ]£^ucation,  5n^ustr\^  an&  XTrabc. 

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With  Illustrative  Maps,  Synoptical  Charts  of  the  World's  Produce,  and 
Tables  of  Reference  for  Scientific  Purposes. 

/Ihamials  of  dotnmevce. 

By  JOHN  YEATS,  LL.D.,  F.G.S.,  F.S.S, 

Vol.  I.— The  Natural  History  of  the  Raw  Materials  of  Commerce. 

Tbeir  Geology  and  Geography,  with  their  chief  economic  uses;  aUo  copious 
Lists  of  Commercial  Products,  and  their  Synonyms  in  the  principal 
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Or  the  Progress  of  the  Useful  Arts,  of  Discoveries,  Inventions,  and  their  Appli- 
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Alloys. 

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Rnutes,  Ancient  and  Modern,  and  Appendix  and  Folio  Sheet  of  Products 
from  the  Three  Kingdoms  of  Nature. 

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A  brief  review  of  British  industry  and  trade  ;  a  survey  of  our  Colonial  and 
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by  railway  or  canal,  and  its  approximate  distance  from  London  ;  also  supple- 
mentary Tables,  which  show  at  a  glance  the  share  obtained  by  the  United 
Kingdom  in  the  commerce  of  other  countries,  with  percentages  of  the  rise 
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Selections  from  Opinions  of  the   Press. 

"...  A  work  wliich  must  be  regarded  as  a  standard  authority  on  the  gi'cat 
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manufacturing  economics." — Daihi  Tcler/rapk.  ■ 

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technical  instruction." — Daily  News. 

"  Dr.  Yeats'  four  volumes  are  a  practical  contribution  to  that  scheme  of 
technical,  indu.strial,  and  trade  education  which  he  lias  so  long  and  so  ably 
advocated.  For  a  long  time  the  British  public  received  with  little  favour 
proposals  for  technical  education.  .  .  .  But  the  example  of  Gennany  and  the 
near  approach  of  tlie  time  when  Americans  may  be  expected  to  compete  keenly 
with  us  in  tlie  fonign  markets  of  the  woild,  have  at  length  convinced  most 
persons  who  take  .an  interest  in  the  subject  that  we  can  no  longer  depend  upon 
our  natur.al  advantages  for  maintaining  our  commercial  supremacy,  .and  that  it 
is  therefore  absolutely  necessary  to  give  our  people  sound  technical,  industrial, 
and  commercial  instruction." — Saturday  Keritio. 


GEORGE  PHILIP  &  SON,  Pcblisheks,  London  and  Livekpool. 


Imperial  8vo,  price  "h.  0<i. 

PICTURES  OF  NATIVE  LIFE  IN  DISTANT  LANDS. 

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scntiitions  of  the  most  striking  features  of  the  Life  of  tlio  Principal  Kaces  of 
Mankind. 
Each  Plate  is  accompanied  by  interc.stinK  and  in.structivo  exjilanatory  letter- 
press,  translated  from  the   QciTiian   of   Professor  A.    Kirchiiokk,  Professor  of 
Geogr.'iphy  at  Ilalle  University,  by  Gkokge  Piiilii',  J\uir. 
The  followiuff  Races  are  illustrated  and  described  : — 1.  TnK  Abokigines  ok 

Al'STKAI.IA.  — 2.    ThK    PaI'UAS.— 8.    TlIK    POLY.NKSIAN.S.— 4.    ThE    KSK1M0.S.— 5.    ThE 

Ameiucan   Indians.— 0.  Tiik  Hoitk.ntots  and  Busiimkn. — 7.  Thb  Nkgkoks. — 

8.  Thk  Nubians.— 9.  The  Auabs.— 10.  The  Hindoos. — 11.  The  Chinese.— 12.  Tiik 

Japanese. 

Aa  extraordinary  amount  of  Ethnog^raphical  Information  is  embodied  in  this  work. 

"A  book  calculated  to  engaj,'c  the  deep  interest  of  young  readers." — Daily 
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"  A  capital  book,  from  which  young  and  old  alike  m.iy  learn  much  that  is  both 
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"  i'lie  boy  or  girl  who  becomes  familiar  with  Hcrr  Lcutemann's  carefully 
executed  pictures  will  have  acquired  a  firm  foundation  on  which  to  rest  the 
knowledge  to  be  thereafter  acquired  Irom  books  of  travel." — Murnhtg  Pout. 

"  ThesL'  graphic  i)ietures,  well  drawn  and  coloured,  illu.strate  the  typical  races 
of  mankind." — Sjicclator. 

"  The  volume  deserves  to  meet  with  great  success." — Daily  Chronicle. 

"  I  also  advise  you  to  look  at  '  Graphic  Pictures  of  Native  Life  in  Distant 
Lands.'"— ri-i!</(.  

A  New  Aid  to  tlic  Study  of  the  Stars.    Just  Publi.«hcd,  Printed  in  Colours. 

PHILIPS'   REVOLVING   PLANISPHERE. 

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interested  in  A^tronomy  to  this  uniijuc  and  cheap  publication,  which,  it  is  hoped, 
will  tend  to  popularise  and  simplify  the  study  of  the  Heavens. 

EDITION  FOR  THE  SOUTHERN  HEMISPHERE. 

Tiik  extraordinary  rsucee.-s  of  the  Kii|.:li>li  I'.ditinn  of  tids  ust-iul  little  instniiiient 
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countries  .S.  of  the  Kiiuator.     Price  2s.  dd.  nett. 

'•  Messrs.  George  Philip  <t  Son  send  vis  a  '  Uevolving  Planisphere,'  which  by  a 
simple  contrivance  indicates  the  stars  visible  in  and  near  London  for  every  hour 
ill  which  almencu  of  daylight  and  clearness  of  sky  enable  them  to  be  so.  The 
principal  st.-ii-s  round  the  nortli  jiole  lus  ;i  centre,  and  extending  to  28°  S.  declina- 
tion, arc  mapped  in  white  on  a  dark  ground  ;  over  this  is  a  di^c  with  an  elliptic 
aperture  easily  turned  by  handles,  and  round  it  tlie  twenty-four  lioiirs  are 
marked,  whilst  on  the  circuinftrenee  of  the  star-map  are  marked  the  iiionths 
and  <lays  of  ilie  year.  By  turning  the  disc  till  the  hour  coincides  witii  any  par- 
ticular day,  that  ])ortion  oi  the  he.ivens  is  uncovered  whicli  is  visible  on  that  day 
nt  the  hour  in  iiuestion.  The  airaiiKenient  is  useful  foi  tho.se  who  desire  to  Icaru 
the  principal  stars  and  constellation-,  and  handy  also  for  amateur  astionomcrs, 
who  in;iy  often  wi-h  to  ascertain  at  a  glance  what  pait  of  the^tellar^ky  is  visible  at 
an  hour  when  they  puiix'se  to  look  for  some  spcci.-d  celestial  object." — Alfmiauiii. 


GEORCE  IMIII.Il'  &  SON,  PuBLiSHEiis,  London  a.nd  I-ivkhiool. 


A    J<EW    DESK    AND    fOCKET   ATLAS. 


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PHILIPS' 

HANDY-VOLUME  ATLAS  OF  THE  WORLD. 

A  .Soiics  of  Sixty-f()\ir  I'Liles,  containing  One  IFundrcd  and  Ten 

JIaps  and  I'hms,  embodying  the  most  recent  ( ieographical 

Information,  and  beautifully  printed  in  colours. 

Accompanied  by  a  Complete  Consulting  Index  of  over  12,000  Places, 
with  Geographical  and  Statistical  Notes  to  each  Map. 

By  J.  FKANCON  WILLIAMS,  F.R.(J.S. 

Dedicated  to  the  Right  Hon.  LORD  ABERDARE,  G.C.B.,  F.R.S., 

President  of  the  Royal  Geographical  Socictt/. 

AND   HAS   BEEN   ACCErTED   BY 

ipn  ^ost  ©racioufi  QBnjcjstp  tljc  ©itcctt,  auti 
^ifi  ^ajfistp  tfjc  Eiiin;  of  tljc  T3cln;taiiiei. 

Press   Notices. 

"  Philips'  '  Handy- Volume  Atlas '  is  about  the  right  size.  '  The  World,' 
it  is  often  said,  'is  a  small  place;'  but  for  all  that,  it  does  not  go  so 
easily  in  a  tail-coat  pocket,  where  Jlr.  I'liilip's  Atlas  can  be  couvciiiently 
carried.  It  is  an  invaluable  companion  for  overyd.ay  newspaper  reading. 
Happii  thoiKjltl  for  travellers,  to  whom  this  little  volume  is  recommeudeil, 
'  I'hilip  on  his  way  through  the  World.'  " — Punch. 

"  It  is  a  pleasure  to  handle  this  delightful  little  volume.  .  .  .  Within 
its  small  compass  it  compiises  a  series  of  no  less  than  ()4  plates,  contain- 
ing 110  maps  and  plans  of  the  different  parts  of  the  earth.  Prefixed  to 
each  plate  is  given,  in  a  concise  form,  a  complete  geographical  descrii>tion 
of  the  different  countries  and  places  represented,  together  with  a  large 
arnoxint  of  statistical  and  other  useful  information,  which  could  only  be 
inclinlcd  by  the  most  judicious  and  ingenious  economy  of  s|)ace.  The 
maps,  though  full,  are  remarkably  clear  and  well-defined,  and,  to  crown 
all,  there  is  a  comjdete  index.  A  more  charming,  handy,  and  useful 
little  volume  could  hardly  be  devised." — Bookseller. 

"...  A  useful  and  convenient  book  .  .  .  not  only  an  atlas  but  also  a 
geography.  It  is  compiled  and  edited  by  J.  Francon'Williams,  F.R.G.S., 
who  dedicates  it  to  the  President  of  the  Royal  Geographical  Society." — 
Morn  imi  Post. 

"  It  has  been  a  long  recognised  need  of  journalists,  politicians,  and 
others,  to  have  a  set  of  handy  volumes  of  this  kind,  with  good  indexes 
for  easy  references." — Literary  World. 

"  We  have  carefully  tested  this  atlas  .  .  .  seems  excellent." — Athcnaum. 

GEORGE  PHILIP  &  SON,  Publishers,  London  and  Liverpool. 


A    riEW    COLONIAL    pOCKET-ATLAS. 

ITanJsoinely  bound  in  clolli,  size  5.^  l>y  .'U  iiiclioM,  roumlcil  corners, 
l)iice  3s.  (ill.  ;  or  in  French  morocco,  gilt  edges,  price  .^s. 

PHILIPS' 

HANDY-VOLUME  ATLAS  OF  THE  BRITISH 
EMPIRE. 

A  Series  of  Sixty-four  Plates,  containing  One  Hundred  and  Twenty 

Maps  and  Plans  of  tlie  United  Kingdom,  and  British  Colonies 

and  Dependencies  throughout  tlie  World. 

Accompanied  with  a  Complete  Consulting  Index  of  over  10,000  Places, 

with  Geographical,  Statistical,  and  Historical  Notes  to 

each  Map. 

liY    J.    FRANrON    WIIJ.IAMS,    F.IJ.d.S. 

Press    Notices. 

"A  delightful  little  volume  of  whidi  everyone  should  possess  himself. 
The  majjs  are  reliable,  and  the  statistical  information  of  a  really  useful 
kind.     There  is,  moreover,  a  comprehensive  index." — Pall  Mall  (htzctte. 

"A  compendious  ami  useful  book  of  reference." — Moruinff  Post. 

"A  charming  little  book  .  .  .  portable,  and  can  ticcompany  a  traveller 
every wliere." — Anijlo-Amcvicnn  2'iiiies. 

"For  neatness,  conciseness,  and  general  accuracy,  '  Pliilips'  Handv- 
Vohime  Atlas  of  the  Pritish  l';mi)irc  '  leaves  little  to  l)e  desired.  ...  A 
dainty  little  volume  that  can  be  easily  carried  in  tlie  pocket  ...  a  verit- 
able miniature  cyclopiedia  of  the  ISritish  Emi)ire." — School  Ouardiai). 

"  A  boon  to  the  public." — Home  and  Colonial  Mail. 

"  Charming  little  i)otkct  atlas.  ...  It  is  long  since  we  have  seen  a 
book  which  combines  in  an  ^•^\\\■,\\  degree  neatness,  clearness,  accuracy, 
and  cheapness." — Journal  of  Kdaratinn. 

"  We  liave  but  little  doubt  that  the  volume  will  prove  serviceable  to 
the  ever  increasing  number  of  tliosc  who  are  interested  in  the  develop- 
ment  of  our  Colonial  and  Imperial  resources."— £i/)-o;)f(ni  Mail. 

"In  the  handy  compass  of  a  volume  that  can  easily  be  carried  in  the 
breast  jiocket,  this  dainty  little  book  contains  no  less  than  120  majis 
illustrative  of  every  corner  of  Her  Majesty's  dominions.  .  .  .  Messrs. 
I'liili])  have  j)rovi<led  a  book  that  is  the  beau  iileal  of  a  student's  manual 
which  cannot  be  surpasseil." — T/ic  Teachers'  Aid. 

"  Messrs.  Philip,  in  i)ublishing  this  atlas,  have  taken  a  stcji  in  the  right 
direction.  .  .  .  The  statistical  tables  given  apjicar  to  have  been  very 
carefnllv  compiled,  and  contain  a  large  amount  of  useful  information." — 
Th  c  Fii  id. 

GEORGE  PHILIP  &  SON,  Publishers,  London  and  LivEuroor,. 


Doiuy  8vn,  clotli,  price  18:3. 

THE  GEOLOGY  OF  ENGLAND  AND  WALES, 

WITH 

NOTES  ON  THE  PHYSICAL  FEATURES  OF 
THE  COUNTRY. 

By   HOKACE    ]•>.    AVOODWAED,    F.G.S. 

(Of  the  Geological  Survey  of  England  niul  Wales.) 

SeconD  BDitioii. 

With  Large  Geological  Map  printed  in  colours  (size  22  inches  by  27  inches). 

Autotype  Frontispiece,  104  Sections  and  Pictorial  Illustrations, 

and  numerous  Tables,  showing  the  classification  and 

correlation  of  the  Strata. 


Opinions  of  the   Press. 

"  During  the  ten  years  which  liave  elapsed  since  the  first  appearance 
of  this  work,  the  progress  of  geological  observation  in  this  country  lias 
been  so  great  that  Mr.  Woodward  has  found  it  necessary  to  amplify  and 
almost  re-write  every  chapter.  The  present  volume  may,  therefore,  be 
regarded  not  so  much  as  a  new  edition  as  a  new  work.  ...  A  praise- 
wortliy  feature  of  this  new  issue  of  the  work  is  the  copious  references 
which  it  offers  in  the  form  of  foot-notes.  By  tlius  referring  the  reader 
to  original  papers  the  book  lias  come  to  be  a  valuable  repertory  of  infor- 
mation ;  it  is,  in  fine,  a  book  whicli  every  English  geologist  must  have  at 
his  elbow." — Athememn. 

"The  student,  at  a  certain  stage  in  his  education,  is  often  bewildered 
by  being  invited  to  survey  too  wide  a  field,  to  contemplate  at  one  glance 
too  many  variations.  Hence  a  work  of  this  kind  has  a  distinct  educa- 
tional value,  besides  its  utility  for  purposes  of  reference.  .  .  .  Not  the 
least  noticeable  enlargement  of  the  present  volume  is  in  the  appended 
geological  map.  The  scale  of  the  former  one  was  too  small  to  be  of  much 
use;  tliis  has  now  been  doubled,  with  the  result  of  producing  a  really 
serviceable  map.  .  .  .  The  result  is  a  volume  which  for  some  years  will 
be  an  essential  to  every  student  of  British  geology,  and  will  save  even 
the  most  advanced  worker  many  an  hour  of  weary  hunting  through  the 
pages  of  scientific  periodicals— a  task  not  seldom  as  arid  and  unprofitable 
as  the  proverbial  search  for  the  grain  of  wheat  in  a  bushel  of  chaff." — 
Saturday  Review. 

GEORGE  PHILIP  &  SON,  PunLTSHERs,  London  and  LivERrooi.. 


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